Moses Ludel

Tom Kelly...I can see the problem and understand your considered solution. There are conversions like this on Jeep and other 4x4s with very large tires. PSC is a company that specializes in hydraulic steering. They may be worth contacting: https://www.pscmotorsports.com/. You might glean ideas from the website. A concern would be the strength of the steering knuckles, steering arms and ball-joints when subjected to a track vehicle's degree of load. Doubling up on the steering force would only increase the load on these other components—even if the frame survives. Moses

stump jumper...To clarify, how many wire terminals does the new alternator have? I'm unclear what the design and original application is. Can you clarify? Some GM alternators use a rectifier bridge with no external regulator. (That's what makes them popular with hobby cars and street rods.) Did you get a wiring schematic with the new retrofit alternator? What is the alternator core source? I'd like to know the alternator's intended use and see a wiring diagram. If there is only one heavy stud terminal plus a Key-On exciter wire terminal, we can discuss the wiring layout in more detail. It would be unlikely that the heavy lead keeps the alternator "hot" at all times. Some pictures of the new/replacement alternator would be helpful. Moses

stump jumper...So, if the alternator charge feed went to the ammeter then to the shared battery stud at the starter solenoid, you can route your new alternator's charge lead the same way. Run the charge lead to the ammeter, and you will continue to get an amp/charge reading. Leave the other ammeter lead as it is, feeding current to the starter solenoid/battery cable. Make certain the alternator is grounded properly to the engine or battery negative. If grounded to the engine, make sure the engine to battery ground circuit is ample. Battery cable gauge wire works best. I would still use something like the Bussmann inline fuse on the charge lead from the alternator to the ammeter. A fuse around 80 amps would be high enough amperage if your new alternator's output is 60 or so amps. This would add a level of safety in case the alternator or wiring shorts to ground. Make sense? As for 60 amps, in the early days of alternators, 60 amps was a major gain over the D.C. brush-type generators that they replaced. I worked on a fleet of 1949-61 light and medium duty trucks, every one equipped with a generator. They put out low amps at an idle. A peak of 40 amps was considered a heavy-duty, high output generator. The most significant gain with alternators was the ability to charge well at an idle and lower engine speeds. Moses

Hi, stump jumper...Glad you found the right fitting alternator. Did the original heavy alternator wire terminate at the battery? At the starter solenoid? Or at the battery cable post terminal? If you can share, I will make a suggestion. The single wire alternator typically feeds the battery lead to the battery via a fusible link wire. If you do end up installing a new wire from the alternator to the battery, make sure you install a fusible link (higher amperage rated for the alternator output) on that wire. Fusible links are available with pigtails and connectors for this purpose. Here's the least expensive example I could find. These can get pricey: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-FLD-140-RP-Fusible-Terminal/dp/B009WQPKVW/ref=sr_1_6 Here's another approach, you'll get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-6ST44-Professional-Positive-Battery/dp/B008BZSH88/ref=sr_1_6 Fusible links are available for different amperage ratings. Not sure what your new alternator puts out. You need to protect the electrical system and wiring from a meltdown or worse. Please share the alternator amperage rating. I can make a suggestion from there about wire gauge, terminal ends and so forth. Moses

VTkorat...Thanks for posting a valuable topic. Your swap makes good sense and can follow factory parts guidelines for a 1966-71 V6 CJ if you have access to a donor vehicle. I did a Buick V6 swap with the 1955 Jeep CJ-5 prototype in my book, the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers). With due respect to the L- and F-head 134 engines and their many historic accomplishments, a 3-main bearing inline four is simply not engineered for highway or higher speed use. The rapid torque rise and reasonable output for its small displacement are commendable. However, this engine was never intended for sustained on-highway "cruising". My parents' 1964 CJ-5 F-head 134 commuted on Nevada highways in the sixties. With the high altitude option (a slight factory compression boost created via a thinner head gasket), the engine eventually ate holes in the piston crowns. A friend at Southern California in the late sixties bought a new F-head CJ that spun a rod bearing and lost the spindly connecting rod. He lamented not buying the V6 option. The 225 Buick OHV pushrod V6 was capable of sustained loads at higher operating speeds. The justification for your conversion is clear, especially with the overdrive that enables sensible speeds on the highway with adequate power. Worth noting, my engine choice was a 231 V6 from a late seventies RWD Buick with rear sump oil pan. The even-fire engine runs much smoother, performs well and has legendary reliability. The 231 even fire engines use an HEI Delco distributor and have improved cylinder head flow plus other upgrades. Of course it's your call here, you may have an affinity for the odd-fire, nailhead 225 engine or ready access to a Dauntless donor vehicle. The swap is straightforward. Motor mounts and transmission adapters are available from Advance Adapters, this has been a time honored A/A conversion. I mention transmission adapters although the T-90, T-86 or T-14/15 transmissions can be fitted with factory pieces if available. The 231 is similar to the 225 for swap components and bellhousings. On vintage Jeep and other conversions, the transmission input shaft ("stick out") length and pilot bearing are always a consideration when selecting the right bellhousing and transmission adapter. Study the Advance Adapters online details and the A/A catalog. Though motor mounts to the frame can be a bolt-in, I have always welded mounts to the frame. This example below is not your swap but rather the installation of a Jeep inline 4.0L six in place of a 2.5L four in a YJ Wrangler. (AMC and Chrysler used different frames for four- and six-cylinder YJ and TJ Wrangler models.) A/A mounts for the V6 swap are simpler and much easier to configure and weld to a CJ frame: https://4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-mig-welding/ I have always substituted a T-98 or T-18 four-speed with these swaps. Jeep offered the T98A version in the CJs (predominantly four-cylinder models, though some claim a 4-speed option was available in Dauntless V6 CJs). My folks' CJ (1964) had the factory T-98A option, and the compound low gear was very useful. You can start out in 2nd gear, which is synchromesh. The overall length of the T-98/T18 (similar) four-speed is very close to the fitment of the T-90 and other vintage CJ three-speeds. The OEM drivelines can be kept, especially when installing the short V6. A/A targets use of a common Ford 2WD pickup T18 with its conversion kit. AMC/Jeep optioned the T18 in seventies CJs with AMC engines; however, this close ratio gear split version does not have the same compound low gear reduction found in the Ford truck T18. We'll leave other upgrades out of the picture, like Saginaw steering with a one-piece tie rod, since you are concentrating on just the engine upgrade. You will need cooling and exhaust improvements, upgrading the radiator core flow and routing the exhaust properly. The early 225 applications have a convoluted exhaust manifold arrangement that would go away if you use a 231 with its improved manifolds. Tubular headers are an option, though I caution: a heat riser is needed for cold climate start-ups of a carbureted engine. Stock cast manifolds allow use of a heat riser. For overall safety and trail use, the exhaust system, whether single or dual, needs to exit past the rear bumper. To avoid deadly carbon monoxide, I never use side dump exhausts and avoid trail riding or rock crawling in Jeep 4x4s with side dumps. I am not clear what intake and carburetor you plan. The 2G-series OEM 225 carburetor is reliable. Even fire 231 engines change to the emission era 2E or 2ES type. Many get a four-barrel manifold, but here, I would use the mildest carburetor choice for this smaller displacement engine. Aftermarket EFI is a nice option but pricey. If you have further questions, please share. We can discuss this swap for the benefit of others considering the conversion. Moses

Hi, Elkin…To begin, I have known the Advance Adapters company and products since the 1970s. The products have always been durable and well engineered. They are better today than ever, and this includes the shift linkage kits. Your Jeep has a lift. A chassis or body lift plus oversized tires can make the stock shift linkage awkward to operate and prone to binding. If your transfer case is in good condition, you can benefit from this linkage in several ways. When the chassis and body twist to any degree, a cable shifter will flex enough to compensate. Mechanical levers and rods will not. A prime market for this shifter is the hardcore four-wheeler who goes off-pavement and places the axles, frame and body at odd angles. As mentioned at the product description, the cable shifter reverses the shift pattern. The handle all the way forward will be 4-Lo. All the way back will be 2WD-Hi. The new shift knob shows this new pattern...Once the driver becomes accustomed to this pattern, it will be easy to shift with the handle design. Modern cable controls have an inner liner sheath that does not require lubrication. They work well over the service life of the part. This shifter assembly should eliminate any concerns about linkage binding. If you drive off-pavement, have a chassis lift, are in a humid climate and want sure, positive shifts, this Advance Adapters assembly is superior to the OEM shift linkage. Yes, some would buy this shifter just for looks—and that says a lot. However, it was designed for utility. If you need an improvement in the transfer case shifting, this cable shifter has much to offer. I trust this is helpful... Moses

Mike M...If your wife can drive a stick, that's a solution. There's no synchromesh on first gear, so keep that in mind: Stop completely before downshifting to low. For many of us, that was what we knew growing up. Contemporary drivers find the non-synchromesh first gear unusual. Hydraulic clutch linkage is smart and available from Advance Adapters, Wilwood and others. Your choice of design depends on how you want the pedal assembly to work. You do want to maintain the dual master cylinder for brake safety. The manual transmission is the easiest path. As an option, a simpler manual "swap" transmission would be like the T98 four-speed that Kaiser offered in the CJs. You have the Model 20 transfer case and can do this swap with the more common T18 and Advance Adapters pieces. This swap can be so close to stock length that drivelines may not require work, especially with a mild suspension lift. The T18 (Ford pickup version) has a compound low gear (non-synchromesh) but allows starting in the synchromesh 2nd gear under most driving conditions. This makes downshifting easier and eliminates the stigma of a T90, T86, T14 or T15 3-speed transmission. The compound low is very handy for crawling off-pavement and slow speed, high torque chores. Compound low does require stopping completely to engage. Thanks for the invite to your incredible neighborhood. You have a real incentive to own a Jeepster that is reliable and road/trail ready! Moses

Cumminsfan98...Well, I have no experience with this rebuilder but was surprised to see the thoroughness of their rebuilding process at this price point. The price does include hard parts as needed and not just a rebuild "kit". The warranty, especially for a 48RE, is longer yet presumably comprehensive: read what's covered, for how long and whether there is a prorated charge for the accrued vehicle mileage at the point of a failure. There are some caveats like shipping free only if you have a commercial site and core waived—only long enough (30 days) to receive your return core. The description looks good to me; however, I suggest reading the Trustpilot reviews at the site. If this business is part of "Car Part Planet" as implied, the reviews are mixed despite the 4.5 average overall (which is actually very good/excellent for the automotive field). Read the reviews and interpret them. If your current transmission is original and never rebuilt, and if you have the time, it would be worth asking whether they will rebuild your original core. That way, you'd get a first-time rebuilt transmission. I'm putting myself in your shoes. As a consumer, this seems a good value with a strong warranty. (Again, review the fine print on the warranty before committing.) I rebuild my own transmissions and have since 1969, so I'm biased. If the shop performs the work they describe, using new or rebuilt hard replacement parts and quality "kit" parts, this is a competitive value in the current market. Know that most rebuilders do not pay their technicians a great deal of money, though the repetitive work does raise the quality despite the pay. The shop is saying all the things we want to know. Not dirt cheap, they are competitive. A shop like theirs is often the supplier to the retailers in the price comparison. This is somewhat a "wholesale" price for getting this unit rebuilt thoroughly. With a 5-year warranty, they have nothing to gain by cutting corners or using cheap parts. Bear in mind that this price does not include removal and installation (R&I or R&R). This is strictly a "bench build". Others may be familiar with this shop. If so, please jump into the discussion. Moses

You're welcome jordan89oak...This has been an interesting project based on a utility 4x4 that will deliver years of fun and safe travel when completed. Your mechanical insight and choices will result in safer, more reliable service in the backcountry. We enjoy hearing about your progress, challenges and solutions. 2022 will be the year for this CJ-7! Moses

Frustrated...I understand your sentiments. Let's walk through this a bit and see whether a solution can be found. See my highlights in red...Moses

jordan89oak...Happy New Year, and thanks for the update. Many of us have been in suspense. This CJ-7 continues to be a "project", but you've done so much and are now nearly finished. I like your use of quality equipment, details like that pressure regulator. Your high performance car background shows through! The upgrades to the chassis, steering and powertrain will pay off. Moses

Lino79...Yes, it's difficult to work on vehicles in extreme cold. Sounds like an auxiliary cable that carried heavy amperage. A winch, rear (bed) accessories or even a high output sound system could be the original reason for the cable. Keep us posted... Moses

Tate10...I agree about welding on the gears. I would not weld on the differential if the spacer washer is only a $20 part. The differential and ring gear parts are case hardened and will lose their case. No matter how you weld it, the heat affected zone (HAZ) alongside the weld will lose its case hardening. MrSputnik1988 uses the washer/spacer instead, and he shows that fix in the 20-minute video. When you get the Pioneer project done, take a peek at his video. It clearly explains what you're dealing with, and he mentions the spacer manufacturer by name several times. If you click on "YouTube" at the video, it will go directly to his comments at YouTube. Tackle the Pioneer engine. We're here when you get ready to work on the Geo Tracker. Moses

Tate10...To get you oriented to the 1999-up Tracker front axle and how the actuator locks up at the differential, review this useful video from YouTube by "MrSputnik1988". He offers a very good explanation and details on how the actuator system works plus details on one aftermarket cure that eliminates the failure prone actuator diaphragm. Many do this conversion and install free-wheeling manual hubs for eliminating drag at the front axle and driveline. (I've seen videos of the actuator clutch being welded in the locked position, an option involving high heat that could damage sensitive, hardened steel parts. The spacer washer seems a less complicated and lower risk approach.) The actuator is a common source of trouble. Here is MrSputnik1988's informative video. At YouTube, note the one viewer's comment about the 4WD light. Make sure the 4x4 light will operate after installing the spacer washer kit: You can test the actuator function with the Tracker's engine shut off and axle/wheels safely off the ground with safety jack stands supporting the chassis or axle segments. Apply compressed air at a very low PSI. (Actual pressure output from the pump cuts off at 6 PSI, which should be regarded as the PSI ceiling.) Do not apply excess pressure, or you can damage the actuator diaphragm. Here is an excellent set of drawings and schematics for your 1999 Tracker system. The first illustration represents your '99 application, which according to the diagram and author's details does not involve the PCM. This would be a big plus: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tracker-26/tracker-101-intro-4wd-air-pump-102819/ Front axle disconnect systems from various vehicle manufacturers were designed to 1) remove the need for manual or automatic free-wheeling hubs and 2) to help eliminate ring gear/carrier and front driveline parasitic drag in 2WD mode. Every application of these axle disconnects has either failure prone parts or significant challenges when performing service work on the front axle. Free-wheeling hubs for 4x4s have been around since the 'fifties. I grew up manually locking and unlocking front wheel hubs. My mother was an R.N. who worked graveyard shifts and commuted in our 1964 Jeep CJ-5 4x4 during Eastern Sierra snowstorms. She locked and unlocked the Cutlas hubs as necessary...Other four-wheel-drive owners should be able to get out of the vehicle to lock-in or free the hubs when required. Moses

Swisshog Thunderbolt...I watched your embedded video with great interest and a smile at the end. Wonderful, painstaking restoration, exciting that you've made this a near daily driver, it is in top condition now with a stout and reliable chassis and powertrain. The Hurst models were stunning when new, I remember them well. You have been faithful to the details that distinguish this rare model. Saginaw steering, the rugged GM THM400 automatic transmission, a 44 rear axle with one-piece axle shafts, the closed knuckle 27 front axle and the original Spicer/Dana 20 through-drive transfer case set this model apart. The ride quality, 101" wheelbase length for stability and your tire choice should each contribute to a safe, street worthy, off-pavement capable Jeep 4x4. 1971 was the pinnacle of improvements to the Kaiser-design Jeepster. Earlier quirks and outdated technology had each disappeared by 1971. All Jeep owners and others who value 4x4s should take the time to watch this slideshow/video. Even the soundtrack is done in good taste! Moses

Lino79...It appears to be a heavy gauge wire from the photos. Looks like a possible lead from an auxiliary battery or high amperage aftermarket device. Is this a utility truck with a welder? Is there a winch or other heavy duty device(s) on the chassis? First-off, if you have a voltmeter, you can check to see whether this is a live/hot lead by holding one meter probe to the wire terminal and the other probe to ground at the frame. If you get a 12V reading, this is a hot wire and should be isolated to prevent a short or worse. If not hot, it could be a ground lead. I would crawl beneath the truck and see whether the wire was attached to the frame. There should be a screw and the rest of the terminal somewhere. If attached to the frame, this is a ground lead. Let us know what you find... Moses

Tate10...When you have a chance to install the pump and check out the hoses, let us know whether the front axle engages and disengages. If you need to troubleshoot the front differential clutch without using the pump, I can suggest ways to do so. Moses

zidodcigalah...Vinegar or solvent with fine grade Scotchbrite should remove surface rust like this. Fine should not damage the surface. Unless the rust etched into the metal, the plate should be fine. A film of ATF will keep the rust away. I'm finding that parts orders are dragging, even with Amazon Prime. Prime shipments can take three days to a week now. I'm sure this is the log jam from supply chain obstacles. This will pass when shipping normalizes. Let us know how the plate turns out... Moses

Tate10...Congrats on buying a 1999 Geo Tracker 4x4! Sounds like the front axle disconnect system is not working. You found the loose air pump, so it's not operating the system. The disconnect clutch cannot engage and disengage. Below is a diagram of the 1999 Geo Tracker front axle and vacuum disconnect system. The first order of business when we buy a vehicle is to get a quality (ideally factory) workshop manual for troubleshooting and service work. For your 1999 Tracker, try to find a new or used manual. The front axle troubleshooting flow chart will walk through the diagnostic steps. Others here at the forums will respond to your questions to speed up your troubleshooting...Moses

Nucking Futs...As we discussed about Howell, it is a significant improvement. If you want to amortize/use the Howell system, my approach would be keeping the 4.2L head and block assembly, doing a straightforward rebuild of the complete engine. Recurve an HEI distributor for a mild, sweeping advance curve with the right base timing. This will help offset the ping/detonation somewhat. A 4.0L head would also help here if you want to add that approach and work through the manifold fit-up. Be sure to modify the 4.0L head's cooling ports to work with the 4.2L block. As for a V-8 swap, if you are toying with a V-8 conversion, the GM LS V-8 with an iron block would be my angle. These V-8s not only provide significant power gains, they also deliver excellent fuel efficiency by design. Here is an insightful rundown on LS Gen 3 and Gen 4 engines. I would choose an iron block version, as weight is not a significant difference; strength and reliability would be the goal: https://www.holley.com/blog/post/gen_iii_gen_iv_ls_engine_specs_dimensions_and_engine_history/ The NP435 is a great transmission. If Ford origins, an H.O. 302 or 351W MPI V-8 would be a consideration for swapping ease, using OEM F-truck parts. These MPI V-8s would be available at an affordable price. (I would avoid the Triton V-8s, and the late Coyote motor is too expensive. Stick with the traditional iron block 302 or 351W with EFI/MPI.) A later 351W truck engine with MPI would be my pick. You would need to work through the wiring and ECM adaptation. Motor mounts for a V-8 are not a daunting issue for a CJ if you have basic fabricating equipment like a drill, bits and a welder. (You may find bolt-in engine mounts.) The NP435 would require stock (Ford) parts or an aftermarket bellhousing adapter. Exhaust, cooling, wiring, the computer and such are significant pieces of the swap. If you want more power and efficiency, the V-8 is certainly a consideration. Advance Adapters has a full line of components for the V-8 swap. There is Painless and Holley for wiring solutions. You'll need a higher pressure electric fuel pump for MPI. If cost is within your budget, your CJ would end up with modern V-8 muscle. Otherwise, I would find a good 1991-95 donor 4.0L engine with all the stock MPI components, the 60-way PCM and the engine wiring harness in place. Build a 4.6L stroker MPI engine with a mild camshaft (shorter duration, more lift for higher manifold vacuum at idle and low speeds). Fuel mileage would improve, torque is excellent with a camshaft targeting an rpm ceiling around 4500 rpm. Higher manifold vacuum is fuel efficiency. Moses

Nucking Futs...Here's my two cents, others should have experiences to share here...We discussed the main gain with the 4.0L head: better flow and resistance to ping/detonation. The 4.2L head is notorious for ping on low-octane fuel, especially when used with a controlled burn EFI conversion like Mopar EFI/MPI fuel-and-spark management. I'm not clear whether you need to keep OEM emissions or plan to use Howell EFI with a stock or improved distributor re-curve. Howell and the right spark curve would behave well with a 4.2L cylinder head. Howell EFI has been available in emission legal form with no restrictions on the distributor or exhaust manifold. A "header" would be a gain though not a necessity for lower speed performance. BBD Carter carburetion and the weighty emission controls on 1980-86 4.2L engines is a recipe for poor fuel efficiency and stodgy performance. If you stick with an emission legal BBD carburetor and OEM Motorcraft distributor, there is a laundry list of OEM emissions, ignition and carburetor equipment involved. Personally, I would get a 4.0L core and do a stroker build with the 4.2L crankshaft and correct rods. The 4.0L head on a smaller bore 4.2L block is not a huge gain. If you're content with the 4.2L engine profile, the 4.2L head would be, as you note, okay except for fuel efficiency. Howell EFI would help fuel mileage. Moses

Mike, Happy New Year! The CJ3B is really coming together, even self-propelled now...Thanks for posting the photos, they provide a clear picture of your progress. The wiring is a delight, nice work with the terminal junctions and heat shrink insulators that will keep terminals weather resistance. Really nice work, Mike, worth the considerable time and energy. This will be a safe and reliable vehicle—on the road in 2022! Moses

Hi, CJ Chris...In the period FSM for your year range, the tool you refer to is a J-26869. The idea is to depress and hold the pin flush as you describe. Some make a tool, which is an option. The goal is to keep the system from switching due to a pressure change (differential) or loss of pressure during the bleeding front-to-rear. By hold the pin flush, the system won't switch over to one end of the braking system (front or rear), which would make bleeding impossible. When the pin pops outward, the switch has occurred, and bleeding is not possible. The principle is simple. You may be able to improvise here if you don't want to invest in the OEM J-tool or the OTC tool at the link below. Some refer to using the OTC tool below, it talks about use with Kelsey-Hayes ABS but does not elaborate on other applications or proportioning valves. The tool does look universal if the clip's slot will latch to your proportioning valve (confirm before buying) and the thickness of the plate will fit into the slot: https://www.otctools.com/products/abs-brake-proportioning-valve-depressor Read the reviews at Amazon, there are references from CJ owners that indicate this tool does not work readily on Jeep CJ proportioning valve applications. One says it's no good for a 1979 application. Another talks about the tool being too thick to fit the slot. You need to research and see whether this applies to your year CJ and the type of valve on your Jeep's braking system: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-OTC7853-Valve-Depressor-OTC-7853/dp/B000K1FVLW/ref=sr_1_1 In the FSM, the J-26869 tool installation procedure is to, "Remove the dust cover from the metering valve stem and install Metering Valve Tool J-26869 on the stem to hold the valve open." So the idea is to keep the pin in (flush) while bleeding the brakes. Once bled properly, of course, the tool is removed. Some make a tool, which is an option. The goal is to keep the system from switching due to the pressure differential change during bleeding front-to-rear. By hold the pin in or flush as it is now, the system won't switch over to one end of the braking system, which would make bleeding ineffective. (When the pin pops outward, the switch has occurred, and proper bleeding is impossible.) The principle is simple. You may be able to improvise here if you don't want to invest in the OEM or OTC tool. Some suggest making the tool from sheet/gauge metal. That's what I would do, but I have fabricating tools. Here is what the OEM tool looks like: Trust this helps... Moses

Thanks much, Knyte! That's the Geo Tracker expertise needed here. Knyte knows every rust hideout on these vehicles, and that insight is priceless. The timing belt is crucial. If an interference engine, skipping cogs on a loose or worn belt, or a broken belt, can instantly bend valves or bury them in piston crowns. I fully agree that the Geo Tracker IFS and previous Samurai beam axle chassis are stout. These are serious 4x4 contenders. We took two preproduction 2-door Tracker 4x4s over the Rubicon Trail in the mid-nineties to prove that point. They earned Chevrolet/Geo a national ad campaign! Moses

Well, I can cast out some general concerns. For model specifics, Knyte is the guy. I'll get his attention and have him reply to your concerns. Aside from the engine's condition, I would make sure the transfer case and transmission work well. The manual transmission is a good thing, make sure the clutch works properly and does not slip. Be sure the transmission does not slide out of any gear. A concern with light 4x4s is whether the front and rear axles work properly and whether the vehicle has ever been damaged. If you don't have a CarFax (which is not always the whole story anyway), I would get the vehicle onto a four-wheel alignment rack and check for a straight frame and suspension. Make sure the frame is intact, straight, and that the body and frame do not have perforation rust. A recent forum exchange was about a badly rusted Geo Tracker that a lady purchased. It was nickel and diming to get the Geo into running order. Then she discovered rust behind the battery box that had eaten up the entire fender well. The cloth tops and bows are a big issue with the Geo Tracker. Be sure the top has all the pieces, that the cloth and framework are weather tight. Look for overall originality with the vehicle. History is everything with a used vehicle. If you can trace the ownership back and have documented history of the service/maintenance, that's ideal. Moses