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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Sounds like time for the LSX swap! Do some homework on CA emissions expectations. Pleased to know you're equipped for the project, including the tuning. Go for it! Keep us posted, photos would be helpful to others. This is a time-honored vehicle for a V-8 swap, the 5.3L would be plenty if that's the engine you choose. Advance Adapters will be a great resource for the mate-up pieces. That's the core of their business, the tech line will be helpful at 1-800-350-2223. Moses
  2. jordan89oak...Yes, you're correct about the vehicle category for the donor engine. If the 6.0L donor was a "Class 1" (old tier system) or 1/2-ton truck emissions, that would likely be okay. If that engine is from a truck with a higher GVWR (3/4-ton let's say), that won't work. Your CJ is in the same emissions class as a 1/2-ton (1500) truck or a light SUV like the Tahoe, or a passenger car application. You can confirm the emissions tier by engine code and compare with the CA emissions program. BAR now has a good deal of information online about engine changes like this. The 5.3L from a T
  3. zidodcigalah...You're on the right track. In the FSM tests that you are using, there is a "Test 4", transmission in Reverse. This is a true test of pump output pressure. The test: "This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. Use 300 PSI Pessure Test Gauge for this test." Your 500 psi gauge is fine for the test, reasonably accurate. Using the rear servo port, follow the procedure for Test 4. You will be running the engine at 1600 rpm and in Reverse. Be very careful about your vehicle positioning. I am not comfortable with your ja
  4. Wow, Jordan89oak, really sorry to see this damage. Unexpected for sure, the cause is unusual but clear! Would your complete LS V-8 be a more practical engine option at this point? If the LS is complete, you could have an emission legal engine in the end. The emission compliance process would involve a referee station in California if a visual inspection is part of the process on a vehicle of this vintage. At least for later chassis swaps with the LS V-8, California wants the donor engine to include the exhaust system and cat(s) from the donor vehicle. If you consider the LS V-8 swap
  5. zidodcigalah...You're welcome...It's always good to know your options and the possible parts damage. To begin, let's discuss the least expensive get by or "survival" approach, knowing that a rebuild is likely down the road. Recommendation: USE THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL WHEN ATTEMPTING THIS WORK. YOU WILL BETTER UNDERSTAND THE FUNCTIONS, SEQUENCING, DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF COMPONENTS. THE USE OF CORRECT TOOLS IS ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT THE CHAPTER ON 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REBUILDING. eBay is one source for a used factory service manual, there is usually a print copy or duplicate
  6. Anrique...I use a 75/25 mix of argon and CO2. That's 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide. If you're welding mild carbon steel, which is the place to start as a new weldor, this is a good balance. According to Miller: Gas selection A 75 percent argon/25 percent carbon dioxide blend (also called 75/25 or C25) works as the best all purpose shielding gas for carbon steel. It produces the least amount of spatter, best bead appearance and won't promote burn-through on thinner metals. 100 percent CO2 provides deeper penetration, but also increases spatter and the bead will be rougher
  7. Zidodcigalah...Good audio/video capture...A failing or failed anti-drainback valve may have started this entire problem. Your Park to Neutral end of noise phenomenon is likely the converter recharging when you move the manual valve in the valve body from Park to Neutral: The pump bushing gets charged with oil again. When the bushing is dry or without enough fluid pressure to stabilize the pump rotor, the pump rattles and buzzes. At this stage, the front pump is damaged. The noise sounds like a classic front pump rattle from a worn front pump bushing and the metal-to-metal grating wit
  8. Asylium...I am guessing you want to improve the steering on a 1963 I-H Scout restomod? The OEM steering is a Ross cam-and-lever design with a long worm tube and rigid column tube, much like the vintage Jeep CJ or pickup gears. This is a high wear, inefficient steering gear design. The common replacement if you can fabricate and safely weld together a mounting kit to the frame would be a Saginaw manual recirculating ball-and-nut gear or a Saginaw rotary valve integral power steering gear if you want power steering. I use the older, slower 4-turn lock-to-lock 800-series Saginaw gears fo
  9. Hi, Peter...You've been thorough and systematic. Normal pressure after warmup, vacuum attached to the regulator, should be around 31 psi. Cranking psi should be 8-10 psi higher. You do have low pressure though not extreme. I would run a fuel pressure test on the engine side of the fuel filter, using a Tee to prevent spiking up the pressure. A gauge alone at the end of the filter will create a dramatic pump pressure spike that can damage a fuel test gauge or worse. This would be the same as pinching the return line to get a pressure spike for testing purposes; pinching the return lin
  10. Congratulations on your "new" 2008 Laramie, Anrique...Please clarify: Your transfer case should also have a 2WD mode. Right? If you do have a 2WD mode designation, that is the mode to use for hard, dry pavement or dry highway driving. The other modes you describe typically work as follows: 1) 4-Auto mode provides 4-wheel-drive through a differential system in the transfer case. This allows the mode to be used for harder surface driving, much like an all-wheel drive (AWD) car. This is a system that responds to loose traction and provides 4WD as needed. 4WD Auto mode will be used on
  11. jcbbgator...Does sound like a fuel supply issue from the sequence and progression of the trouble. Before doing anything else, check the fuel flow on the engine side of the fuel filter. Observe the fuel flow volume when the pump runs; fuel should flow forcefully and steadily. If not, try another fuel filter and test again. If this hasn't solved the problem, check the TBI regulator pressure, simple enough at the TBI check port. The best way to perform this test is with a pressure gauge at the check port. You want pressure within range (14-15 psi at an engine idle). You also want a st
  12. Hi, Tim...I think you're on the right track with a possible torque converter and/or governor solenoid issue. I did an article at the magazine site that may be helpful for keeping your daughter's 32RH transmission alive. These are inherent issues with Chrysler 3-speed RWD transmissions. Review the article, it's likely not related to the transmission's current symptoms but still useful: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1 This might also be helpful but not directed at all of the Jeep and Ram automatics. The 47RE/48RE
  13. Tim...32RH is as follows. Back off the lock nut enough to allow the adjuster to reach the correct torque setting: 3-5 turns on front adjuster; 5-6 turns on the rear adjuster: 1) Torque the front band to 72 inch-pounds, back out screw exactly 2-1/4 turns for the 32RH; hold adjuster in place while torquing lock nut to 30 ft.-lbs. 2) Torque the rear band to 72 inch-pounds for the 32RH; back out adjuster screw exactly four (4) turns for the 32RH; hold the adjuster in place while torquing the lock nut to 25 ft.-lbs. The rear band on a 30RH is 41 inch-pounds then backed off seve
  14. playingsnooky...That's piston ring blowby. Two ways to further confirm this: 1) Remove #1 spark plug (more accessible and a cylinder with 30% leak). Bring that piston to just before TDC. With a clean oil spray can or other means, put about a tablespoon of clean motor oil in the cylinder and carefully bring the piston to TDC. The oil will run down around the piston crown and temporarily seal the piston/rings. Since you're not check compression with a gauge, any increase in compression will not impact a leakdown test. Run the leakdown test with the CCV breather tube open as before. Y
  15. playingsnooky...Your findings are not frightening. From a drivability standpoint, you should have adequate seal. To be clear, however, this engine has wear. My rule for normal leakdown is 10%-12% on an engine with proper break-in. 20% raises eyebrows (maybe more service life left but distinct wear). A new engine will typically have 8%-10% leakage. 30% leak is significant. This is usually a hint that valves and possibly rings are near the end of their service life. An engine like this can often run for some time if cranking compression is still normal and oil consumption not excessi
  16. Jim L, I was surprised to see that mainstream listings for this engine are fading. I searched a bit and found Falcon at eBay. You could contact them about 0.010" or 0.020" oversize pistons: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Dauntless-225-Buick-Deluxe-engine-kit-1964-65-66-67-68-CJ-pistons-gaskets-/190734063388 Another sources for vintage pistons, I've used them for obsolete engines, is Egge Machine. They have 0.020" oversized pistons, rings, etc., for your 225 V-6: https://egge.com/product/kits.php?action=Search+MMY&kit_make=BUICK&kit_year=1967&kit_engine=225+CID
  17. Yes, XJ Cherokee is the same. The 60-way computer is the goal, pre-OBD-II. a 1991-95 would be a facsimile of the Mopar EFI Conversion kit. Any 1991-95 YJ or XJ model would work, these are pre-OBD-II. Mopar advertised the conversion kit as "1995 YJ Wrangler 4.0L" for emissions certification. The system was released during that era. Look for a 1991-95 XJ Cherokee. Avoid 1996-up. Mopar even sells the wiring harness separate from the kit, though it's very expensive. I posted that information and part numbers (above) on February 3rd. Or you can use a 1991-95 OEM XJ or YJ harness and s
  18. jordan89oak...This is shaping up...to a degree. You now have a very late COP 4.0L, a true '93 4.0L with an AX15 transmission and your original 258 engine. The AX15, however, does need an adapter to the Dana 300. It's not a difficult adaptation, as the transmission and T/C are each 23-spline. You want to keep the Dana 300 in its passenger side drop orientation. Here's the scoop: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-8603--jeep-ax15-adapter-kit-to-dana-300/ So the '93 engine also came without its original EFI/MPI, wiring or PCM? Still thinking about the carburetor adapted t
  19. Yes, Lou...Simply disconnecting the battery for a few minutes requires the PCM to start fresh. All stored trouble codes disappear. Time for the fuel trim and other functions to reset and stabilize...Touchy. Moses
  20. Lou...Our youngest son had a similar issue with an XJ Cherokee smog test. The vehicle had passed recently for the previous owner. The Jeep parked for months, and the battery voltage got low. Low enough that the codes reset to default. He drove straight to the smog station and had your experience. The shop told him to drive for a few hours and come back. I did some research, and others say to wait/drive a week after a battery change-out before undergoing a smog test. I would drive your CJ for a few days and make sure the battery and cabling are in good shape with secure connections.
  21. Excellent, Lou. You now have the correct pushrods and have eliminated the misfire with a new MAP sensor. Nothing lost here. And you're way up the learning curve! I'm investing time this year in sharing a PicoScope and diagnostic tools that read the function of sensors like MAP in live, real time. I thought of investing in a high end scanner and have used the noteworthy Miller/SPX DRB-III tool that gave Chrysler dealers a diagnostics edge. What you discovered is true for all diagnostics: devices fail. The PicoScope can read electrical/electronic activity in wave forms and doesn
  22. Wow, the rod bearing is really damaged! Yes, amazing it did not knock. The loose timing chain and retarded valve timing dramatically impaired/dropped manifold vacuum. Maybe combustion was so incomplete, and compression so low, that the engine did not produce a knock. The carb adapter is a workaround, you have the standalone aftermarket distributor/oil drive already. The coil is built into the HEI cap. Does the vehicle require emissions inspection? Or is it age-wise outside the window? The template sounds interesting, you need to take the crankshaft pilot bearing and transmissi
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