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stump jumper

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  1. The new alternator is a one wire . It has the hot output terminal and a ground terminal .There is a small stud that has a rubber cover that is marked "r". It is internally regulated. The origional altenator is a delco remy and has a hot output terminal ,and the standard r+ f terminal . The original has a delco external regulator mounted on the radiator support. If I run ,as you suggested, the output (+) wire directly to the ammeter and from there to the starter solenoid I might as well use the original wire from the back of the alternator because that is exactly the same. But if I do that then I am assuming that I have to disable the original external regulator . The entire idea of this swap was to bypass all of the stuff with the exception of the ignition switch )so it will still start with the key.I do not need any gauges or headlights as I mentioned before. That is why I was hoping to run the output from the rear of the one wire directly to the positive post on the battery. I will try to get some photos to post..
  2. Moses-Thank you! That will save me a whole bunch of trouble.I will try that. So I should be able to just hook up the existing large hot wire to the new alternator,however do I un plug the existing external regulator?
  3. Sorry-the original alternator is a approx 90 amp rebuilt. The new one wire is about 60 amps which should be sufficient to charge the battery.The scout is used only to plow my driveway and is not licensed nor has been for the 18 years that I have had it. I never use the factory lights and the plow is belt driven with a hydraulic pump that operates off of the motor. The only lights that I ever use are two hood mounted plow lights that are fed directly off of the positive battery post through a fuse link and switch that is mounted on the dash in the cab.
  4. The big positive(red) cable goes directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. The wire feeding power from the back of the alternator goes directly through the firewall to one side of the the ammeter gauge. It then continues from the other side of the ammeter gauge back to the starter solenoid and it is connected to the same solenoid stud as the big red wire from the battery. On the back of the factory alternator there are the standard r+f posts.On scouts (I have had 3) only the r wire is used and goes to the r terminal of the harness that plugs into the external regulator. I hope this info helps
  5. I found an alternator that fits perfectly (one wire) I realize that the positive terminal can be wired directly to the battery positive post and the ground on the back of the alternator must be grounded to the motor. None of the factory gauges or headlights etc. have been used or have worked for 18 years. I have plow lights fused ,switched and wired directly to the battery. This scout is used only as a snow plow scout for my 400' driveway in the winter . All I require is for it to start-and charge the battery. Question-The large factory wire feeding off of the original alternator --what do I do with that? Do I run a new wire directly to the battery and tape off the origional wire or do I put both wires on the positive terminal on the back of the alternator?
  6. Does anyone know how to convert the existing external regulated alternator in a 1966-67 scout 800 to a one wire internally regulated alternator?
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