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zidodcigalah

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About zidodcigalah

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  1. Thanks a lot Moses, all of this makes perfect sense... I really can't thank you enough for helping me on this. I guess I'll have to face the inevitable Since I'm from Europe, ordering/finding spare parts is quite problematic and expensive because of high shipping costs and duties, so I will first try to determine the scope of the damage. For now I don't feel any slippage (even when the noise is present while driving). I will do hydraulic tests and check if line pressure is below spec (probably is). If pressure is low and pump is shot - do I have to replace converter too? I was think
  2. Well I finally found some time to check up on this. To be honest, inside vehicle it sounds like rattle while on this video it sounds more like pump. Here is the link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGtHNTRaNAI This is cold start, and after starting vehicle I kept it around 2000rpm. The clunk you hear occasionally is me switching from Park to Neutral - instantly as I switch to Neutral (or any other position) noise disappears. As soon as I switch back to Park it is there again. Noise seems a bit more silent after driving couple of miles. I took it for a 60 miles ride. Since
  3. Thanks Moses. I'm aware of the design flaw. I will test fluid circulation after drainback valve and after cooler to check for restrictions. The only symptom that is missing so that I can be 100% sure that valve is the problem is delayed engagement. I don't feel any delay, even after 3-4 days... Could bushing damage cause huge damage in other parts of the transmission system? I'm thinking about scratches on it, not complete failure and breakage. I took some photos while I was doing a vehicle rebuild and I can't see any huge damage on front bushing, maybe slight scratches that to me seem no
  4. Hi, I have 32RH trans in 1995 4.0 YJ 150k miles. It works perfectly except there are some noises (probably trans related) that recently started and bother me: After Jeep has been sitting overnight - when I start it in Park, there is some rattling/grinding noise that starts around 2k rpm. This is more pronounced when it is cold outside, like 35F. Noise only occurs in Park and only on 2k+ rpms. I'm not 100% sure that it is gone once everything heats up, it could be that it is just more silent but present. I think this is 100% coming from trans because changing the gear eliminates the
  5. Well, rotor was not turning at all... So I removed distributor and three tooth were missing from dist gear. I'm going to put in another one, remove oil pan and collect missing chunks. After that I will put new oil. Should I do anything else (eg. gears on camshaft?) next question would be-why this happened in the first place? I have replaced all lifters 5 days ago, could it be that there was not enough oil reaching the gears? UPDATE: Distributor shaft is frozen, stuck. Won't move left or right with distributor taken out of engine
  6. As soon as I thought that repairs had come to an end - new problem emerges. I was driving my Jeep and suddenly I started to hear repeating clicks, something similar to sonar sounds. I've stopped and thought that I've heard one of the pulleys, but while I was looking at car it just died. And haven't started since. It throws code 54 - distributor sync pick up, so I replaced that part with another one from XJ - and got same code again. I doubt both parts are bad. I have fuel at rail but no spark at ignition coil. My friend - mechanic, told me that maybe ignition coil is bad. Could thi
  7. Gauge is inaccurate, but I'm not sure yet if it is something wrong with a gauge or with sending unit. I can't see how gauge can fail. Yet, temp sending unit Ohm readings are just as they should be. Seems that my old stock thermostat (that probably came with a vehicle from factory) was bad and was opening late or not opening completely, and since gauge shows smaller readings than real, that confused me because even though engine was running a bit hot gauge needle was just where it should be. New thermostat I bought from Crown was opening a bit soon, so engine wouldn't reach recommend
  8. Well, it is definitely stretched a bit and slaps when cold (its pretty silent when warm). I will replace it however very soon. For now, idling is much smoother than before, but I guess that it'd be even better with chain being replaced.
  9. Finally found a solution to this problem - lifters at #3 and #5 cylinders were bad. I've replaced all 12 of them and no more ticking. Should I have replaced timing chain and camshaft?
  10. Well, in the end, there was some play at pitman arm, so I've replaced it with a new one and now there is almost no movement.
  11. I'm aware that thermostat is completely mechanical device. I tested resistance on CTS and temperature sending unit (that little one at the back of the engine) for another reason - if they both read similar temperature - then probably its thermostat problem because its not that likely that they both failed at the same time. From ohm readings I got, they both read around 87-88 degrees celsius so I guess its inaccurate temp gauge that is giving me problems. Anyway, I will try with another new thermostat and check if there are improvements. If not then I guess its inaccurate temp gauge or bad
  12. I tested resistance from CTS and temp sending unit - CTS: 1008 ohm steady (guess when tstat is steadily opened, it goes lower and then higher until it finally reaches 1008 ohms) TSU: 272-275 ohm depends where second probe is grounded From some resistance tables I've found on the internet, 1008 is somewhere between 80 and 90 C (175 and 194 F). Would this be normal even if tstat is rated at 195F? For TSU I have only found some tables but they don't say that its for temperature sending unit. 270 ohm would be around 87-88 C. All the time temp gauge shows around 70-75 C, it reads lo
  13. Thank you Moses. Right now I have opposite problem. I've put in new brand new thermostat today, 195F rated. Everything is in place as it should be and now water temp won't rise above first quarter mark (that is about 70C deg). I think it's not stuck open because water is cold inside radiator until temp rise to that mark. I know there is CTS in tstat housing, and another sending unit in the back of the engine - but I'm not sure if they are to blame because i used to get higher readings with old thermostat in it. Old tstat is stock, seems like it was never replaced before.
  14. Hello all! I've recently replaced my water pump, and I was wondering what is normal operating temperature range on 4.0L Jeeps? I have celsius temp gauge, and most of the time it's one line below half ( it's around 85 degrees celsius~=185F. I have 195F tstat in Jeep. When I'm on 7-10% incline, temp would rise near half mark- 100C (210F). Jeep has 32rh automatic with 33 inch tires. Before I installed those tires temp would always stay near that 185 mark - one line below half mark. Water pump, tstat, radiator - all new. Air burped out of cooling system. Only thing that comes to my mind is
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