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zidodcigalah

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About zidodcigalah

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  1. Well, rotor was not turning at all... So I removed distributor and three tooth were missing from dist gear. I'm going to put in another one, remove oil pan and collect missing chunks. After that I will put new oil. Should I do anything else (eg. gears on camshaft?) next question would be-why this happened in the first place? I have replaced all lifters 5 days ago, could it be that there was not enough oil reaching the gears? UPDATE: Distributor shaft is frozen, stuck. Won't move left or right with distributor taken out of engine
  2. As soon as I thought that repairs had come to an end - new problem emerges. I was driving my Jeep and suddenly I started to hear repeating clicks, something similar to sonar sounds. I've stopped and thought that I've heard one of the pulleys, but while I was looking at car it just died. And haven't started since. It throws code 54 - distributor sync pick up, so I replaced that part with another one from XJ - and got same code again. I doubt both parts are bad. I have fuel at rail but no spark at ignition coil. My friend - mechanic, told me that maybe ignition coil is bad. Could this happen? My biggest fear is that something is wrong with PCM, but I can easily hook it to Snap On diagnostic scanner and read everything.. And there it says - cam sensor-NO. Should PCM block both fuel and spark and not only spark if it doesn't have signal from Crankshaft or Camshaft position sensor?
  3. Gauge is inaccurate, but I'm not sure yet if it is something wrong with a gauge or with sending unit. I can't see how gauge can fail. Yet, temp sending unit Ohm readings are just as they should be. Seems that my old stock thermostat (that probably came with a vehicle from factory) was bad and was opening late or not opening completely, and since gauge shows smaller readings than real, that confused me because even though engine was running a bit hot gauge needle was just where it should be. New thermostat I bought from Crown was opening a bit soon, so engine wouldn't reach recommended operating temp (195f). I took Motorcraft fail-safe 195F thermostat, and even though I still have inaccurate gauge readings, engine warms up to operating temp. I know this because I hooked PCM to Snap On MT2500 and CTS reads 90-91 degrees Celsius (equals to 195F), while gauge reads about 176F. I will try first with new sending unit, and if that doesn't help, then the gauge is to blame.
  4. Well, it is definitely stretched a bit and slaps when cold (its pretty silent when warm). I will replace it however very soon. For now, idling is much smoother than before, but I guess that it'd be even better with chain being replaced.
  5. Finally found a solution to this problem - lifters at #3 and #5 cylinders were bad. I've replaced all 12 of them and no more ticking. Should I have replaced timing chain and camshaft?
  6. Well, in the end, there was some play at pitman arm, so I've replaced it with a new one and now there is almost no movement.
  7. I'm aware that thermostat is completely mechanical device. I tested resistance on CTS and temperature sending unit (that little one at the back of the engine) for another reason - if they both read similar temperature - then probably its thermostat problem because its not that likely that they both failed at the same time. From ohm readings I got, they both read around 87-88 degrees celsius so I guess its inaccurate temp gauge that is giving me problems. Anyway, I will try with another new thermostat and check if there are improvements. If not then I guess its inaccurate temp gauge or bad temperature sending unit. As for the water pump, I checked impeller orientation. They are both in same direction, even the water pump I have removed had stamped "R" mark on impeller and housing. Part number shows that this water pump fits both XJ but with 2.5 engine and YJ from 1991 to 1995 with 2.5 or 4.0.
  8. I tested resistance from CTS and temp sending unit - CTS: 1008 ohm steady (guess when tstat is steadily opened, it goes lower and then higher until it finally reaches 1008 ohms) TSU: 272-275 ohm depends where second probe is grounded From some resistance tables I've found on the internet, 1008 is somewhere between 80 and 90 C (175 and 194 F). Would this be normal even if tstat is rated at 195F? For TSU I have only found some tables but they don't say that its for temperature sending unit. 270 ohm would be around 87-88 C. All the time temp gauge shows around 70-75 C, it reads lower.
  9. Thank you Moses. Right now I have opposite problem. I've put in new brand new thermostat today, 195F rated. Everything is in place as it should be and now water temp won't rise above first quarter mark (that is about 70C deg). I think it's not stuck open because water is cold inside radiator until temp rise to that mark. I know there is CTS in tstat housing, and another sending unit in the back of the engine - but I'm not sure if they are to blame because i used to get higher readings with old thermostat in it. Old tstat is stock, seems like it was never replaced before.
  10. Hello all! I've recently replaced my water pump, and I was wondering what is normal operating temperature range on 4.0L Jeeps? I have celsius temp gauge, and most of the time it's one line below half ( it's around 85 degrees celsius~=185F. I have 195F tstat in Jeep. When I'm on 7-10% incline, temp would rise near half mark- 100C (210F). Jeep has 32rh automatic with 33 inch tires. Before I installed those tires temp would always stay near that 185 mark - one line below half mark. Water pump, tstat, radiator - all new. Air burped out of cooling system. Only thing that comes to my mind is strain from bigger tires and fact that now engine runs on lower rpms than before, which makes water pump and fan turn slower.
  11. Hello, I was recently replacing water pump and because I had to wait for Jeep to idle and burp air out of cooling system I've noticed some things: The ticking I've described doesn't begin immediately after engine starts. When I first noticed this I thought that it happens because engine starts on a bit higher rpm and that is why it could not be heard. But later I realized that it corresponds to oil pressure - as soon as oil pressure rises to maximum ( it never goes past 60-65 psi) the ticking fades in. I've tested this on warm day when revs would drop to 800 rpm soon, and there was no ticking (or it was too silent to be detectable) until oil pressure got to maximum. I left my Jeep idle to burp any air from cooling system, and even engine got to operating temp and idled for 20 minutes, ticking wasn't gone. But after driving it for a minute or so, oil pressure was a bit under 40 psi and there was no more ticking. Would those two things be the symptoms of piston slap? I guess that slapping would start as soon as engine starts (or at least drops down rpm).
  12. There is some play in steering wheel (precisely in steering gear box) and I have power steering. Its saginaw unit, and I've found that it has some adjusting screw on top of it and that by adjusting that screw I can reduce play. On the other hand, I've read that this should be done only after rebuilding complete unit and that adjusting it without rebuild could make elements inside bind and damage the unit. Can it be done or I need to rebuild it first? It has some 180.000 miles on it and no visible leaks on it nor on ps pump.
  13. Thank you a lot. I was unable to detect anything by removing spark plug cables. Maybe I have more than one slapping piston. I guess that I will drop oil pan on next oil change, and check for loose pistons. If I don't find any I will proceed with valvetrain troubleshooting. I'll be back here with the results.
  14. I was unable to pinpoint which cylinder could be the culprit but I've found the video of exactly the same sound. This is an 4.0L cherokee, but on 1:51 when he gets underneath oil pan, its that same hammering sound. This car has also exhaust leak but there is that one hammering sound that can be best heard underneath, like in my situation.
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