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zidodcigalah

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  1. Couple of updates on this thread. I did notice some lag during initial start. Once vehicle has been sitting overnight on slight incline, it would take around a second or two to get into reverse or drive. After that it is almost instant. I ordered Sonnax manual and pressure regulator valve and will install them and remove adb valve completely as it might be causing restriction. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll do complete rebuild once trans totally fails :)
  2. I really appreciate all of your replies. I did remove valve body (but did not disassemble it), and this rattle in Park happened sometime after that (not sure if it happened immediately as it is much more noticeable in cold weather). As far as I know, pump was never removed. I will check filter/valve body for possible leaks. In case that it doesn't solve the problem I will probably drop the transmission again and check front bushing and front pump gear clearance. Yesterday I saw that fluid level was 1/3 inch above MAX (checked in neutral after driving 30 miles). I read somewhere that fluid
  3. Well, I did rear servo pressure test and stall test. This time I put jacks under both wheels and under differential case. Vehicle was running at 1600-1650 rpm in reverse, and I disconnected throttle valve cable. The results with trans fluid warmed up are following: 1. Stall test: 2100-2200 rpm. No rattling or any unusual noise. 2. Rear servo: needle bouncing between 150-160psi. When moving lever pressure keeps rising but in the end it starts to quickly bounce between 200-300psi. Occasionally it stops around 250-260psi but it is only fraction of a second. I'm not sure if this is gaug
  4. Moses, thanks for this detailed guide. I finally found some time to do hydraulic test. The specs for my transmission is 54-60psi and up to 90-96psi line pressure at full throttle in position "2" and 1000 rpm. I only did this test since main suspect is pump - if I understood well this test is enough to detect failing pump. I could not find any details if this test should be performed with transmission fluid hot or cold. I put a jack underneath and removed one rear wheel, connected gauge to trans line pressure port, disconnected throttle cable, started engine and set it idle at 1000rpm with
  5. Thanks a lot Moses, all of this makes perfect sense... I really can't thank you enough for helping me on this. I guess I'll have to face the inevitable Since I'm from Europe, ordering/finding spare parts is quite problematic and expensive because of high shipping costs and duties, so I will first try to determine the scope of the damage. For now I don't feel any slippage (even when the noise is present while driving). I will do hydraulic tests and check if line pressure is below spec (probably is). If pressure is low and pump is shot - do I have to replace converter too? I was think
  6. Well I finally found some time to check up on this. To be honest, inside vehicle it sounds like rattle while on this video it sounds more like pump. Here is the link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGtHNTRaNAI This is cold start, and after starting vehicle I kept it around 2000rpm. The clunk you hear occasionally is me switching from Park to Neutral - instantly as I switch to Neutral (or any other position) noise disappears. As soon as I switch back to Park it is there again. Noise seems a bit more silent after driving couple of miles. I took it for a 60 miles ride. Since
  7. Thanks Moses. I'm aware of the design flaw. I will test fluid circulation after drainback valve and after cooler to check for restrictions. The only symptom that is missing so that I can be 100% sure that valve is the problem is delayed engagement. I don't feel any delay, even after 3-4 days... Could bushing damage cause huge damage in other parts of the transmission system? I'm thinking about scratches on it, not complete failure and breakage. I took some photos while I was doing a vehicle rebuild and I can't see any huge damage on front bushing, maybe slight scratches that to me seem no
  8. Hi, I have 32RH trans in 1995 4.0 YJ 150k miles. It works perfectly except there are some noises (probably trans related) that recently started and bother me: After Jeep has been sitting overnight - when I start it in Park, there is some rattling/grinding noise that starts around 2k rpm. This is more pronounced when it is cold outside, like 35F. Noise only occurs in Park and only on 2k+ rpms. I'm not 100% sure that it is gone once everything heats up, it could be that it is just more silent but present. I think this is 100% coming from trans because changing the gear eliminates the
  9. Well, rotor was not turning at all... So I removed distributor and three tooth were missing from dist gear. I'm going to put in another one, remove oil pan and collect missing chunks. After that I will put new oil. Should I do anything else (eg. gears on camshaft?) next question would be-why this happened in the first place? I have replaced all lifters 5 days ago, could it be that there was not enough oil reaching the gears? UPDATE: Distributor shaft is frozen, stuck. Won't move left or right with distributor taken out of engine
  10. As soon as I thought that repairs had come to an end - new problem emerges. I was driving my Jeep and suddenly I started to hear repeating clicks, something similar to sonar sounds. I've stopped and thought that I've heard one of the pulleys, but while I was looking at car it just died. And haven't started since. It throws code 54 - distributor sync pick up, so I replaced that part with another one from XJ - and got same code again. I doubt both parts are bad. I have fuel at rail but no spark at ignition coil. My friend - mechanic, told me that maybe ignition coil is bad. Could thi
  11. Gauge is inaccurate, but I'm not sure yet if it is something wrong with a gauge or with sending unit. I can't see how gauge can fail. Yet, temp sending unit Ohm readings are just as they should be. Seems that my old stock thermostat (that probably came with a vehicle from factory) was bad and was opening late or not opening completely, and since gauge shows smaller readings than real, that confused me because even though engine was running a bit hot gauge needle was just where it should be. New thermostat I bought from Crown was opening a bit soon, so engine wouldn't reach recommend
  12. Well, it is definitely stretched a bit and slaps when cold (its pretty silent when warm). I will replace it however very soon. For now, idling is much smoother than before, but I guess that it'd be even better with chain being replaced.
  13. Finally found a solution to this problem - lifters at #3 and #5 cylinders were bad. I've replaced all 12 of them and no more ticking. Should I have replaced timing chain and camshaft?
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