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  1. Hi Moses, I recently got Sonnax valves. I plan to drop trans pan soon and replace them while removing anti-drainback valve and verifying band adjustment. I still have one concern - TCC. That rattling issue is still there - but it seems to have some sort of pattern. Noise only happens just after trans downshifts to 2nd if I put heavy load on engine when the TCC is engaged and trans is in 3rd speed (not every time, but it happens only under those circumstances). If I put trans in position 2 I'm unable to reproduce issue. Also, if I disconnect TCC relay so TCC never engages, I'm unable to reproduce it. TCC might be related to this but not locking up or upshifting to 3rd also means higher rpms which might prevent the issue. If I'm going uphill, TCC won't disengage until I push throttle pedal around half way. It seems that it takes too much throttle for it to unlock when under load which chokes the engine since I have 3.07 gears and 33s. Another thing I noticed on flat roads - after TCC locks, if I release throttle pedal and apply light throttle afterwards engine RPMS flare up to 1500 rpm and then drop to 1200. It doesn't feel like slip - it looks like TCC disengaged after releasing throttle, and once throttle is applied again it did not lock immediately. If I disconnect TCC relay none of this will happen and part throttle downshift seems to be much easier and better. I'm not sure if this is normal behavior - I thought that TCC will unlock immediately when vehicle is not cruising and is under load. If I understand well, TCC solenoid is controlled by PCM and powered thru relay. TPS, vehicle speed and coolant temp are main inputs for PCM. I verified all inputs with scanner, and TV cable is adjusted. I guess all variables related to transmission itself are OK since it behaves perfectly when TCC relay is disconnected. I cannot verify when PCM activates TCC solenoid since that information is not present on scanner. I was thinking about connecting light bulb to relay terminal so that I can see under what circumstances lockup happens. Is it possible that PCM controls relay correctly but something in valve body is causing this abnormal throttle to unlock (if it is abnormal at all)?
  2. Couple of updates on this thread. I did notice some lag during initial start. Once vehicle has been sitting overnight on slight incline, it would take around a second or two to get into reverse or drive. After that it is almost instant. I ordered Sonnax manual and pressure regulator valve and will install them and remove adb valve completely as it might be causing restriction. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll do complete rebuild once trans totally fails :)
  3. I really appreciate all of your replies. I did remove valve body (but did not disassemble it), and this rattle in Park happened sometime after that (not sure if it happened immediately as it is much more noticeable in cold weather). As far as I know, pump was never removed. I will check filter/valve body for possible leaks. In case that it doesn't solve the problem I will probably drop the transmission again and check front bushing and front pump gear clearance. Yesterday I saw that fluid level was 1/3 inch above MAX (checked in neutral after driving 30 miles). I read somewhere that fluid above max will be churned by planetary - which in turn creates bubbles. So this might be the reason why rattle on low throttle appeared, as it was not present before. However this does not explain noise in Park as nothing moves at that point. Anyway, I plan to keep this Jeep for years so at some point transmission rebuild will be necessary. I think I found a good deal on 32RH rebuild kit on ebay for 160$. It contains Red Eagle frictions, Kolene steels, front band, pump bushing and all gaskets/seals. Same supplier also has Sonnax manual and PR valve. I'm still waiting for a reply if they sell pump rebuild kit - I saw they have kit for A518 with front bushing, gear set and seals for 50$. This is a good option for international orders as one supplier provides everything thus minimizing shipping costs, and shipping time is OK. Here is a link to it, please remove it if it is not compliant with forum rules: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Dodge-A904-TF-6-Transmission-Red-Eagle-Performance-Master-L2-Rebuild-Kit/202573760811 Thank you for your help, I will post results here once I finish working on this issue. I'm an IT guy so if there is anything from that domain that you need help with, feel free to message me
  4. Well, I did rear servo pressure test and stall test. This time I put jacks under both wheels and under differential case. Vehicle was running at 1600-1650 rpm in reverse, and I disconnected throttle valve cable. The results with trans fluid warmed up are following: 1. Stall test: 2100-2200 rpm. No rattling or any unusual noise. 2. Rear servo: needle bouncing between 150-160psi. When moving lever pressure keeps rising but in the end it starts to quickly bounce between 200-300psi. Occasionally it stops around 250-260psi but it is only fraction of a second. I'm not sure if this is gauge related or pump is unable to keep steady pressure... Even after running test for 10 mins results were always the same, so I'm not sure if this is air in gauge/hose or pump. No leakage at test port this time Bands were adjusted about a year ago.
  5. Moses, thanks for this detailed guide. I finally found some time to do hydraulic test. The specs for my transmission is 54-60psi and up to 90-96psi line pressure at full throttle in position "2" and 1000 rpm. I only did this test since main suspect is pump - if I understood well this test is enough to detect failing pump. I could not find any details if this test should be performed with transmission fluid hot or cold. I put a jack underneath and removed one rear wheel, connected gauge to trans line pressure port, disconnected throttle cable, started engine and set it idle at 1000rpm with my SnapOn MT2500. Unfortunately I only had 500psi gauge, and I had a bit of dripping at line port connection (was unable to seal this), I'm not sure if this can affect readings. Gauge scale is not good enough for this task but needle seems to be between 50-55psi and a hair under or at 90psi at full throttle. I'm also attaching a video (because of angle between camera and gauge readings might look higher/lower than they really are). In best case scenario, these values are close to or at lower limits. Is this a sign of bad pump that needs replacement or these values would be even less in that case? Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ3zCpgfmKs
  6. Thanks a lot Moses, all of this makes perfect sense... I really can't thank you enough for helping me on this. I guess I'll have to face the inevitable Since I'm from Europe, ordering/finding spare parts is quite problematic and expensive because of high shipping costs and duties, so I will first try to determine the scope of the damage. For now I don't feel any slippage (even when the noise is present while driving). I will do hydraulic tests and check if line pressure is below spec (probably is). If pressure is low and pump is shot - do I have to replace converter too? I was thinking about replacing entire pump/seals, flushing cooler and reusing converter. In case of some wonder where pressure is still within specs - could I get away with only front bushing/seals replacement for now? In this scenario, I'd rather do pump when time comes for entire trans overhaul In any case, Sonnax upgrades are a must. Now, even replacing manual valve would eliminate that noise in Park, but still that would only mask real problem until I repeat that low speed scenario. I will keep you updated, someone might find this useful. Thanks again for helping me on this and multiple other occasions. Your forums might not have membership base like some other ones, but it has invaluable knowledge and content thanks to you.
  7. Well I finally found some time to check up on this. To be honest, inside vehicle it sounds like rattle while on this video it sounds more like pump. Here is the link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGtHNTRaNAI This is cold start, and after starting vehicle I kept it around 2000rpm. The clunk you hear occasionally is me switching from Park to Neutral - instantly as I switch to Neutral (or any other position) noise disappears. As soon as I switch back to Park it is there again. Noise seems a bit more silent after driving couple of miles. I took it for a 60 miles ride. Since I have 3.07 gearing and 33 inch tires, when I'm cruising it is around 1300rpm. If I cruise for 5-10 mins and then give it more throttle on uphill (so it downshifts to 2nd and 2000+rpm) - same noise appears but after 3-4 seconds it is gone and won't happen again unless I repeat the same steps. Last time I had transmission out, I drove it 3 miles with 1,5 pints of fluid less than max.. I'm not sure if this made the problem worse, but noise in Park was already there before that.
  8. Thanks Moses. I'm aware of the design flaw. I will test fluid circulation after drainback valve and after cooler to check for restrictions. The only symptom that is missing so that I can be 100% sure that valve is the problem is delayed engagement. I don't feel any delay, even after 3-4 days... Could bushing damage cause huge damage in other parts of the transmission system? I'm thinking about scratches on it, not complete failure and breakage. I took some photos while I was doing a vehicle rebuild and I can't see any huge damage on front bushing, maybe slight scratches that to me seem normal for 150k vehicle. I will try to make a video of the noise and put it here so it can be helpful for someone else with the same issue.
  9. Hi, I have 32RH trans in 1995 4.0 YJ 150k miles. It works perfectly except there are some noises (probably trans related) that recently started and bother me: After Jeep has been sitting overnight - when I start it in Park, there is some rattling/grinding noise that starts around 2k rpm. This is more pronounced when it is cold outside, like 35F. Noise only occurs in Park and only on 2k+ rpms. I'm not 100% sure that it is gone once everything heats up, it could be that it is just more silent but present. I think this is 100% coming from trans because changing the gear eliminates the noise. Noise when driving - this happened 3-4 times so far. I was driving on a highway and since I have 3.07 and 33s engine was working at 1500 rpm or below all the time. When I got to the incline, I pushed the pedal and engine went to around 2k rpm. Nose similar to first one started, but after 5-6 seconds it was gone and after that no matter how much I pushed the pedal I could not replicate it. It seems to happen only after driving on low rpm for a long time and then pushing the pedal. I could not feel any drivability issues when this happened. I'm not 100% sure this comes from trans but it sounds like that and is definitely related to rpms.. If it was engine I guess I'd have bigger issues. Trans was never rebuilt. Since I did complete restoration of vehicle a year ago I took transmission out and did following: Adjusted linkages/cables Replaced all seals Changed entire fluid/filter Adjusted both bands Cleaned governor and removed burrs from its housing Cleaned valve body - seemed ok In the meantime I had to take it out twice because flexplate reluctor ring was slightly out of round and was throwing off CPS signal. Since all replacement plates had issues (poor manufacturing) I took original one to the machine shop where they grinded it to spec. However, I'm not sure if they balanced it. Having all of this in mind I thought about a couple of things about noise no.1: Bad check valve - converter fluid drains back. Since converter is not being filled in park, something rattles. I excluded the pump from the equation since it works in any gear. Problem with this is that even after filling the converter in Neutral (and noise goes away immediately after shifting to neutral) noise still occurs in park. Flexplate bolts hitting the dust shield - shield seems a bit bent. However this does not explain why noise is in park but not in neutral. Issues with torque converter - on stall test it was around 2k rpm which by FSM seems to be OK, so I'm not sure about it.. Am I missing something here?
  10. Well, rotor was not turning at all... So I removed distributor and three tooth were missing from dist gear. I'm going to put in another one, remove oil pan and collect missing chunks. After that I will put new oil. Should I do anything else (eg. gears on camshaft?) next question would be-why this happened in the first place? I have replaced all lifters 5 days ago, could it be that there was not enough oil reaching the gears? UPDATE: Distributor shaft is frozen, stuck. Won't move left or right with distributor taken out of engine
  11. As soon as I thought that repairs had come to an end - new problem emerges. I was driving my Jeep and suddenly I started to hear repeating clicks, something similar to sonar sounds. I've stopped and thought that I've heard one of the pulleys, but while I was looking at car it just died. And haven't started since. It throws code 54 - distributor sync pick up, so I replaced that part with another one from XJ - and got same code again. I doubt both parts are bad. I have fuel at rail but no spark at ignition coil. My friend - mechanic, told me that maybe ignition coil is bad. Could this happen? My biggest fear is that something is wrong with PCM, but I can easily hook it to Snap On diagnostic scanner and read everything.. And there it says - cam sensor-NO. Should PCM block both fuel and spark and not only spark if it doesn't have signal from Crankshaft or Camshaft position sensor?
  12. Gauge is inaccurate, but I'm not sure yet if it is something wrong with a gauge or with sending unit. I can't see how gauge can fail. Yet, temp sending unit Ohm readings are just as they should be. Seems that my old stock thermostat (that probably came with a vehicle from factory) was bad and was opening late or not opening completely, and since gauge shows smaller readings than real, that confused me because even though engine was running a bit hot gauge needle was just where it should be. New thermostat I bought from Crown was opening a bit soon, so engine wouldn't reach recommended operating temp (195f). I took Motorcraft fail-safe 195F thermostat, and even though I still have inaccurate gauge readings, engine warms up to operating temp. I know this because I hooked PCM to Snap On MT2500 and CTS reads 90-91 degrees Celsius (equals to 195F), while gauge reads about 176F. I will try first with new sending unit, and if that doesn't help, then the gauge is to blame.
  13. Well, it is definitely stretched a bit and slaps when cold (its pretty silent when warm). I will replace it however very soon. For now, idling is much smoother than before, but I guess that it'd be even better with chain being replaced.
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