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Everything posted by zidodcigalah

  1. Couple of updates on this thread. I did notice some lag during initial start. Once vehicle has been sitting overnight on slight incline, it would take around a second or two to get into reverse or drive. After that it is almost instant. I ordered Sonnax manual and pressure regulator valve and will install them and remove adb valve completely as it might be causing restriction. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll do complete rebuild once trans totally fails :)
  2. I really appreciate all of your replies. I did remove valve body (but did not disassemble it), and this rattle in Park happened sometime after that (not sure if it happened immediately as it is much more noticeable in cold weather). As far as I know, pump was never removed. I will check filter/valve body for possible leaks. In case that it doesn't solve the problem I will probably drop the transmission again and check front bushing and front pump gear clearance. Yesterday I saw that fluid level was 1/3 inch above MAX (checked in neutral after driving 30 miles). I read somewhere that fluid
  3. Well, I did rear servo pressure test and stall test. This time I put jacks under both wheels and under differential case. Vehicle was running at 1600-1650 rpm in reverse, and I disconnected throttle valve cable. The results with trans fluid warmed up are following: 1. Stall test: 2100-2200 rpm. No rattling or any unusual noise. 2. Rear servo: needle bouncing between 150-160psi. When moving lever pressure keeps rising but in the end it starts to quickly bounce between 200-300psi. Occasionally it stops around 250-260psi but it is only fraction of a second. I'm not sure if this is gaug
  4. Moses, thanks for this detailed guide. I finally found some time to do hydraulic test. The specs for my transmission is 54-60psi and up to 90-96psi line pressure at full throttle in position "2" and 1000 rpm. I only did this test since main suspect is pump - if I understood well this test is enough to detect failing pump. I could not find any details if this test should be performed with transmission fluid hot or cold. I put a jack underneath and removed one rear wheel, connected gauge to trans line pressure port, disconnected throttle cable, started engine and set it idle at 1000rpm with
  5. Thanks a lot Moses, all of this makes perfect sense... I really can't thank you enough for helping me on this. I guess I'll have to face the inevitable Since I'm from Europe, ordering/finding spare parts is quite problematic and expensive because of high shipping costs and duties, so I will first try to determine the scope of the damage. For now I don't feel any slippage (even when the noise is present while driving). I will do hydraulic tests and check if line pressure is below spec (probably is). If pressure is low and pump is shot - do I have to replace converter too? I was think
  6. Well I finally found some time to check up on this. To be honest, inside vehicle it sounds like rattle while on this video it sounds more like pump. Here is the link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGtHNTRaNAI This is cold start, and after starting vehicle I kept it around 2000rpm. The clunk you hear occasionally is me switching from Park to Neutral - instantly as I switch to Neutral (or any other position) noise disappears. As soon as I switch back to Park it is there again. Noise seems a bit more silent after driving couple of miles. I took it for a 60 miles ride. Since
  7. Thanks Moses. I'm aware of the design flaw. I will test fluid circulation after drainback valve and after cooler to check for restrictions. The only symptom that is missing so that I can be 100% sure that valve is the problem is delayed engagement. I don't feel any delay, even after 3-4 days... Could bushing damage cause huge damage in other parts of the transmission system? I'm thinking about scratches on it, not complete failure and breakage. I took some photos while I was doing a vehicle rebuild and I can't see any huge damage on front bushing, maybe slight scratches that to me seem no
  8. Hi, I have 32RH trans in 1995 4.0 YJ 150k miles. It works perfectly except there are some noises (probably trans related) that recently started and bother me: After Jeep has been sitting overnight - when I start it in Park, there is some rattling/grinding noise that starts around 2k rpm. This is more pronounced when it is cold outside, like 35F. Noise only occurs in Park and only on 2k+ rpms. I'm not 100% sure that it is gone once everything heats up, it could be that it is just more silent but present. I think this is 100% coming from trans because changing the gear eliminates the
  9. Well, rotor was not turning at all... So I removed distributor and three tooth were missing from dist gear. I'm going to put in another one, remove oil pan and collect missing chunks. After that I will put new oil. Should I do anything else (eg. gears on camshaft?) next question would be-why this happened in the first place? I have replaced all lifters 5 days ago, could it be that there was not enough oil reaching the gears? UPDATE: Distributor shaft is frozen, stuck. Won't move left or right with distributor taken out of engine
  10. As soon as I thought that repairs had come to an end - new problem emerges. I was driving my Jeep and suddenly I started to hear repeating clicks, something similar to sonar sounds. I've stopped and thought that I've heard one of the pulleys, but while I was looking at car it just died. And haven't started since. It throws code 54 - distributor sync pick up, so I replaced that part with another one from XJ - and got same code again. I doubt both parts are bad. I have fuel at rail but no spark at ignition coil. My friend - mechanic, told me that maybe ignition coil is bad. Could thi
  11. Gauge is inaccurate, but I'm not sure yet if it is something wrong with a gauge or with sending unit. I can't see how gauge can fail. Yet, temp sending unit Ohm readings are just as they should be. Seems that my old stock thermostat (that probably came with a vehicle from factory) was bad and was opening late or not opening completely, and since gauge shows smaller readings than real, that confused me because even though engine was running a bit hot gauge needle was just where it should be. New thermostat I bought from Crown was opening a bit soon, so engine wouldn't reach recommend
  12. Well, it is definitely stretched a bit and slaps when cold (its pretty silent when warm). I will replace it however very soon. For now, idling is much smoother than before, but I guess that it'd be even better with chain being replaced.
  13. Finally found a solution to this problem - lifters at #3 and #5 cylinders were bad. I've replaced all 12 of them and no more ticking. Should I have replaced timing chain and camshaft?
  14. Well, in the end, there was some play at pitman arm, so I've replaced it with a new one and now there is almost no movement.
  15. I'm aware that thermostat is completely mechanical device. I tested resistance on CTS and temperature sending unit (that little one at the back of the engine) for another reason - if they both read similar temperature - then probably its thermostat problem because its not that likely that they both failed at the same time. From ohm readings I got, they both read around 87-88 degrees celsius so I guess its inaccurate temp gauge that is giving me problems. Anyway, I will try with another new thermostat and check if there are improvements. If not then I guess its inaccurate temp gauge or bad
  16. I tested resistance from CTS and temp sending unit - CTS: 1008 ohm steady (guess when tstat is steadily opened, it goes lower and then higher until it finally reaches 1008 ohms) TSU: 272-275 ohm depends where second probe is grounded From some resistance tables I've found on the internet, 1008 is somewhere between 80 and 90 C (175 and 194 F). Would this be normal even if tstat is rated at 195F? For TSU I have only found some tables but they don't say that its for temperature sending unit. 270 ohm would be around 87-88 C. All the time temp gauge shows around 70-75 C, it reads lo
  17. Thank you Moses. Right now I have opposite problem. I've put in new brand new thermostat today, 195F rated. Everything is in place as it should be and now water temp won't rise above first quarter mark (that is about 70C deg). I think it's not stuck open because water is cold inside radiator until temp rise to that mark. I know there is CTS in tstat housing, and another sending unit in the back of the engine - but I'm not sure if they are to blame because i used to get higher readings with old thermostat in it. Old tstat is stock, seems like it was never replaced before.
  18. Hello all! I've recently replaced my water pump, and I was wondering what is normal operating temperature range on 4.0L Jeeps? I have celsius temp gauge, and most of the time it's one line below half ( it's around 85 degrees celsius~=185F. I have 195F tstat in Jeep. When I'm on 7-10% incline, temp would rise near half mark- 100C (210F). Jeep has 32rh automatic with 33 inch tires. Before I installed those tires temp would always stay near that 185 mark - one line below half mark. Water pump, tstat, radiator - all new. Air burped out of cooling system. Only thing that comes to my mind is
  19. Hello, I was recently replacing water pump and because I had to wait for Jeep to idle and burp air out of cooling system I've noticed some things: The ticking I've described doesn't begin immediately after engine starts. When I first noticed this I thought that it happens because engine starts on a bit higher rpm and that is why it could not be heard. But later I realized that it corresponds to oil pressure - as soon as oil pressure rises to maximum ( it never goes past 60-65 psi) the ticking fades in. I've tested this on warm day when revs would drop to 800 rpm soon, and there was n
  20. There is some play in steering wheel (precisely in steering gear box) and I have power steering. Its saginaw unit, and I've found that it has some adjusting screw on top of it and that by adjusting that screw I can reduce play. On the other hand, I've read that this should be done only after rebuilding complete unit and that adjusting it without rebuild could make elements inside bind and damage the unit. Can it be done or I need to rebuild it first? It has some 180.000 miles on it and no visible leaks on it nor on ps pump.
  21. Thank you a lot. I was unable to detect anything by removing spark plug cables. Maybe I have more than one slapping piston. I guess that I will drop oil pan on next oil change, and check for loose pistons. If I don't find any I will proceed with valvetrain troubleshooting. I'll be back here with the results.
  22. I was unable to pinpoint which cylinder could be the culprit but I've found the video of exactly the same sound. This is an 4.0L cherokee, but on 1:51 when he gets underneath oil pan, its that same hammering sound. This car has also exhaust leak but there is that one hammering sound that can be best heard underneath, like in my situation.
  23. Thank you for extensive response. Here is some kind of history of this engine: I've bought this Jeep with rod knock, so crankshaft and rod bearings were replaced. No more rod knock. Compression was checked - it was in the upper factory range After some time engine developed random tick (it would start randomly at idle and disappear randomly - sounded like it comes from distributor) and it sounded lot more metallic than this knock. But this occurred rarely so i guess that this could be random lifter tick Engine got hydrolocked, and piston connecting rod was replaced. Compressi
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