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Found 3 results

  1. Hi, I have 32RH trans in 1995 4.0 YJ 150k miles. It works perfectly except there are some noises (probably trans related) that recently started and bother me: After Jeep has been sitting overnight - when I start it in Park, there is some rattling/grinding noise that starts around 2k rpm. This is more pronounced when it is cold outside, like 35F. Noise only occurs in Park and only on 2k+ rpms. I'm not 100% sure that it is gone once everything heats up, it could be that it is just more silent but present. I think this is 100% coming from trans because changing the gear eliminates the noise. Noise when driving - this happened 3-4 times so far. I was driving on a highway and since I have 3.07 and 33s engine was working at 1500 rpm or below all the time. When I got to the incline, I pushed the pedal and engine went to around 2k rpm. Nose similar to first one started, but after 5-6 seconds it was gone and after that no matter how much I pushed the pedal I could not replicate it. It seems to happen only after driving on low rpm for a long time and then pushing the pedal. I could not feel any drivability issues when this happened. I'm not 100% sure this comes from trans but it sounds like that and is definitely related to rpms.. If it was engine I guess I'd have bigger issues. Trans was never rebuilt. Since I did complete restoration of vehicle a year ago I took transmission out and did following: Adjusted linkages/cables Replaced all seals Changed entire fluid/filter Adjusted both bands Cleaned governor and removed burrs from its housing Cleaned valve body - seemed ok In the meantime I had to take it out twice because flexplate reluctor ring was slightly out of round and was throwing off CPS signal. Since all replacement plates had issues (poor manufacturing) I took original one to the machine shop where they grinded it to spec. However, I'm not sure if they balanced it. Having all of this in mind I thought about a couple of things about noise no.1: Bad check valve - converter fluid drains back. Since converter is not being filled in park, something rattles. I excluded the pump from the equation since it works in any gear. Problem with this is that even after filling the converter in Neutral (and noise goes away immediately after shifting to neutral) noise still occurs in park. Flexplate bolts hitting the dust shield - shield seems a bit bent. However this does not explain why noise is in park but not in neutral. Issues with torque converter - on stall test it was around 2k rpm which by FSM seems to be OK, so I'm not sure about it.. Am I missing something here?
  2. I am trying to find the cause of a rich running engine, and I'm running out of ideas of what to do next. History: Wife bought me and my son this Jeep sight unseen a few months back for us to fix up. 213,000 miles Initial engine problems identified: Heavy exhaust smell, cracked exhaust manifold, Clogged CCV valves with oil bypass in air filter. Overall the jeep runs great other than the strong exhaust smell and bluish smoke from exhaust pipe. No noticeable power difference from other wrangler 4.0s i've driven. Haven't driven it enough to report on gas mileage. Smell is too harsh to drive for long periods of time, especially with top off. Items I have tested or replaced: 1. New CCV valves, gaskets, vacuum lines, air filter - not getting any blow by since 2. New exhaust manifold 3. New NGK O2 Sensor 4. New spark plugs, oil change, oil filter 5. New vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator to intake manifold 6. Compression Test 1:150 2:155 3:160 4:155 5:160 6:160 7. MAP sensor - tested ok 8. Fuel Pressure - 31 psi 9. Fuel pressure regulator - I believe tested ok, disconnected vacuum line and fuel pressure increase 10psi 10. IAT - tested ok, but had blow by residue so ordered new one to replace (not installed) 11. Thermostat - Engine gets up to around 205 per inside gauge and then drops 10deg or so, so thermostat is opening. Heat is working too good for Florida 12. Injectors - Tested resistance in Ohms and they are within range (13.8-14.4), also disconnected each one individually and there was a noticeable reaction from the engine 13. Vacuum Leaks - Have checked and replaced what was cracked. I don't feel there are any leaks. At this point I'm looking for advice on what to do next: My plan: 1. Replace IAT just because I ordered a new one (arrives tomorrow) 2. New Cap and Wires 3. Check/ replace coolant temp sensors (both) 4. Probably needs a new CAT, but wanted to get the rich running under control before replacement. Maybe the old cat is non functioning and is the cause of this? I don't feel that this is the cause, but not enough experience to know for sure. 5. Replace injectors?? Maybe a bad spray pattern...clog??? Thank you in advance for any guidance!
  3. I'm in a pickle. Had to install new shocks (both tore away from rear upper shock mounts..due to weak springs(?)..lower rear shock mounts also damaged) and leaf springs (which say a 2-2.5" lift). Upon installing the springs, the output shaft from the rear pumpkin (I'm not a mechanic) pulled-out approx 1.5 inches (shiny..no dirt) and the shaft entering the front pumpkin, also pulled-out some. I drove yesterday and all kind of God-awful noises...not good. I'm told the rear axle has to rotate towards the front of the jeep to push the shaft back into place. This can be done with shims? Any idea what degree shim would bring all into original alignment? I was told a couple options by a past professional rock climber....Manager of a NAPA Parts store locally: One, lower transmission crossmember (skid plate) by no more than 1" and insert spacers if fixes problem. The second option: remove axle mounting perch, rotate axle towards front to re-seat shafts to original stock position and then re-weld perches in place. I didn't think of asking about shims which might be the easy fix if lowering the crossmember doesn't work. Yikes! Thank you! Vehicle Information: 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, 2.5 engine, 4x4
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