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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. ahmichigan...If there is a bearing number on the Crown part, the rest is simple. Bearings are on an international sizing standard. You can find a replacement, or even an improved upgrade/heavy duty bearing, at a major bearing supplier's catalog online. (Try Timken, SKF, NSK, Federal-Mogul, etc.) Simply use the interchange chart or conversion table at the catalog. Moses
  2. Mike...We need to talk over coffee at some point...Much more to our bios, many similar experiences to share! Moses
  3. Wow, Adam! This changeover is involved. Can see where this went. You now have a heavy duty bellcrank upgrade! Moses
  4. Mike, aren't the Jeep vintage vehicles great for repro parts! The rear bumper will work well, amazing that the market is still supported at this level. As for the unused lock tab on the bearing, that's on par. Our neighbor up the block has a JK Wrangler Unlimited built to the nines for the Rubicon Trail and hardcore wheeling. He has aftermarket Dana 60 front and rear axles that cost a small fortune. The manufacturer (name withheld to prevent a pissing match), went off on its own tangent with the full-floating front hub bearing arrangement. The design, two nuts without a key way-indexed thrust washer placed between the inner nut and the outer wheel bearing, guaranteed that the nuts would work loose at some point. They did. At the left side of the vehicle, the right hand thread nuts and thin tin lock plate came loose. There was no stack height on the stubby aftermarket spindles to install thrust washers. I am a stickler for OEM engineering as a baseline. There is a Ford OEM application prototype (F450 live full-floating front axle) that offers the correct thrust washer, nuts and lock tab sequencing. Unfortunately, the aftermarket manufacturer decided that off-roaders would like a stubby spindle with no stick-out like a stock Ford spindle and hub; this meant no room for an OEM type key way indexed thrust washer, an inner adjuster nut, a lock plate and an outer lock nut. Two nuts jammed against each other with no inner thrust washer does not work when the weight of a vehicle pushes the hub bearings outward, directly against the inner nut. The left side nuts (right hand thread) and flimsy lock plate came loose. Many companies are more concerned about product liability insurance than proper engineering. The owner shared the issue with the manufacturer, this was clearly a safety issue, and the concern fell on deaf ears. If I wanted Dana 60 axles under a Jeep, my first stop would be a recycling yard for Ford F350/F450 prototype beam axles. Cut and relocate the spring perches. Save $5000 per axle. Moses
  5. Mike...Ah, more things in common! Though northern Nevada has been home the majority of my life, we spent five years at the Eugene-Springfield-Oakridge Area while I attended U of O. We returned later for a four-year stint, and I completed the Jeep Owner's Bible, Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible and the Chevrolet & GMC Light Truck Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers) at Oakridge. I continued writing columns and tech features regularly for magazines plus a weekly column for the Portland Oregonian. A close friend (Kirk Rogers) from Oakridge retired recently from a career that began during his high school senior year at Pope & Talbot (Oakridge). He went "off the hill" to Georgia Pacific (Springfield), then finished as a millright and superintendent for Cascade Pacific Pulp at Halsey. They did a $15M renovation just prior to his retirement. Great background in each of your cases. What the three of us share in common is preventive maintenance. My earliest years as a professional wrench were spent as a light- and medium-duty truck fleet mechanic working at the engineering department of a large general hospital. We had resources, my supervisor was quality oriented, and I was able to do by-the-book work, which suited me well. Stakes were high, and my goal was zero breakdowns with a fleet of 22 service vehicles. Preventive maintenance is the only way to achieve these goals, work must be done properly...I've been at this professionally for 52 years, and to this day, knock on wood, at the personal level we have never been stranded alongside a road or in need of road service. I can see that your work environment is high stakes, too, a hugely responsible job and career! So, let's be academic and textbook with this CJ-3B. A single nut is sufficient on the bellcrank pinch bolt. The pin is clamped with the split casting, which provides some degree of tension. A self-locking, all steel nut will suffice. I'm not a fan of nyloc nuts, perhaps you have a different opinion from your jet aircraft background. Nylon fasteners deteriorate from atmospheric stresses, high heat, load stresses and chemical reactions. I'm okay with the older Willys slotted tension nuts like your bellcrank pin uses, though this nut design is now a specialty and more difficult to source. In modern hardware, I like the high-grade, deformed head (toplock) nuts; they hold torque settings well and remain resistant to loosening through their service life. You work with high-end machinery and vibration. What are your thoughts? Moses
  6. Mike...I worked at gas stations in the sixties when many of the left hand thread wheel studs were still in service. We were cautioned to loosen carefully and look for an "L" (often on the head of the studs) at the left side of the vehicle. I also owned four vintage Ford (pre-1948) vehicles in my early teens before joining the '55-'57 Chevy crowd. If thread type was overlooked, snapping older studs could easily occur with a hand cross wrench. I could see the fresh breaks at the broken studs. Yep, live and learn. When replacing the studs, fortunately, Jeep aftermarket sources are the last to offer left hand threaded wheel bolts for the left side of the vehicle; you can find them from Omix-ADA, Crown, Quadratrac, Dorman, etc. If you're curious, here's what a pain it would be to replace studs on vehicles as new as early sixties Chrysler cars. Goodson makes this cutter primarily for the larger numbers of early Ford vehicles that use swaged studs to cinch the brake drums to the wheel hubs. Your studs are not swaged; they do not crimp the drum to the wheel hub: https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools Here's an excellent article and set of photos on an early Ford wheel bolt installation, quite a job, be glad you will be spared this cost and time: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm I thought the washer stack looked high on the bellcrank pin. Glad you had an easy fix there. Is there a reason for the double-nut on the pinch bolt? Can you replace these two nuts with a single Grade 8 toplock (all metal "deformed" crown) nut? Fastenal and Hillman produce these nuts, a hardware or fastener supply should have them in stock. Pleased to share these tidbits and glad you were not offended by my observation about the wheel studs. I tried to be tactful... Moses
  7. Hi, Mike...Looks like the LF wheel studs snapped off. This happens likety-split (especially with air tools) when unsuspecting folks do not realize that the left side wheels and hubs on vintage Jeep, Studebaker, Ford and Chrysler vehicles are left hand thread. Fortunately, Willys/Jeep did not use swaged wheel studs and drums. Swaged studs require special tools (Goodson Tool Company) to replace properly. If the hub holes are not wallowed, Willys studs can be replaced readily with an arbor or bottle jack press. As for the brake drums, the previous owner talked about a mix of M38 and CJ3B parts. Is that an issue here? The wheel bearings require end play and not preload like axle differential bearings. Specifications for adjusting the M38 or CJ-3B wheel bearings can be found in the FSM for your Jeep. An excellent book that covers CJ-3B through early CJ-5/6 Dauntless V-6 applications is the reproduction/reprint of the 1965 factory shop manual. Here is one (new book) source: https://www.themotorbookstore.com/jeep-service-manual-sm-1046.html I teethed on these manuals and have this book plus a shelf full of vintage Jeep factory parts and service manuals. To this day, I consult these books regularly, they have each paid for themselves many times over. Adjusted properly with the outer lock nut torqued, a front wheel/tire (lifted safely off the ground) held at the 6/12 o'clock position should have a specific feel when adjusted properly. After a fresh bearing pack and new seal: "...shake of the wheel will be just perceptible and wheel will turn freely with no drag". The adjustment steps are outlined in the manual (page 337) available at the link above...Later model vehicles use a true end play method, attaching a dial indicator to measure the precise thousandths of an inch end play while pushing and pulling the wheel hub inward and out. Looks like you needed the bell crank kit!...You're moving along. I see that you're using the OEM pin nut. With the new washer in place, it appears that the nut is not turned onto the threads far enough for the pinch top to do its self-locking job. Did the kit provide a self-locking nut with a thinner profile? Moses
  8. Understood, Mike, by all means take your time and do your homework. This engine does need an oil pump from these photos, which is normal and on par for the age and wear. A Melling high volume upgrade pump would be a cost effective solution. The Melling parts will work with a stock or new aftermarket timing cover...Research it. Moses
  9. Mike, snoopy2x is right on about the demand for adequate oil volume (i.e., pressure as well). There is a less expensive, fully functional alternative to the more expensive TA Performance pump: The Melling "High Volume" Pump Kit for Buick V-6 and V-8 engines: Melling Part Number K-20IPV (that's an upper case "I" letter, not a "1"). This kit uses a spacer plate that raises the oil pump end plate height to provide room for two longer oil pump gears, springs and small parts. This is the pump kit I used for my 231 V-6 build for the 1955 Jeep CJ-5. (I did the same approach on our 1987 AMC/Jeep Grand Wagoneer's 360 V-8 with a Melling High Volume Pump Kit for AMC V-8s.) The solution is ingenious; simply extending the oil pump cavity height and providing longer gears will increase the volume of oil between the pump rotors. Pressure can be adjusted to your needs with the choice of springs provided in the kit. The cautionary part of this pump installation is the centering pins for the spacer plate. The plate must index precisely on the timing cover/pump housing. These two pin holes must be drilled correctly, which is not an insurmountable task but one that requires patience and proper alignment. Failure to align the spacer with the timing cover gear bores will result in gear drag. As for your timing cover issue, if there is oil pump bore wear (common for Buick and AMC engines with this kind of oil pump configuration), you might as well get a new timing cover. Regarding the original cover, if it is a necessity or practical to repair it, I would use the Time-Sert repair method. The thread drilling and tapping kit and stainless inserts are not cheap, but the precision tools can be reused many times. I never use Heli-Coil repairs on this type of project. Here is the Time-Sert method performed on one of my critical aluminum thread projects where I saved the cost of a new motorcycle outer case: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/how-to-time-sert-aluminum-thread-repair-and-upgrade/. Your timing cover is similar. If you use a Time-Sert repair, you could set the insert with a quality two-part epoxy then even epoxy a graded stud rather than bolt into the case. The water pump gasket would actually seal around either a bolt or stud, so setting the insert with epoxy would be enough, allowing use of a removable OEM type bolt to secure the water pump. This comes down to whether the oil pump cavity is in good condition and the cost of a new timing cover. Despite the hole punched through the blind hole casting of the cover, the water pump should not seep coolant if the pump gasket is a Felpro type with impregnated sealant and you use pipe/thread sealing Teflon paste (high temp automotive type) on the water pump fastener threads. As for snoopy2x's suggestion about a Cloyes doubler-roller timing set, that's my approach as well. Good suggestion and safeguard that will last for the engine's normal lifespan. Moses
  10. ahmichigan...The larger pin size, bearing improvements as snoopyx notes, and bracket mass increase are obvious, looks like a significant gain here. This pinch bolt and pin bolt nut will do the trick. The combination with self-locking nuts should keep parts in place! Moses
  11. oryj94...AN lines are top drawer but consider my other suggestions if AN is too costly. The forums are too time consuming at this point for the limited sponsorship. Video production demand is up. I may consider a subscriber/member blog down the road if sponsorship is available. There is a large amount of searched material at these forums, traffic is high. Guests and members will continue to have access to these archival resources. However, postings and exchanges will be on hold, there's simply no time for it. I'll send you an email access to help you through this project... Moses
  12. martin_xj...I have a good friend with a coil-on-plug 4.0L TJ Wrangler, he had the mystery P0301 code, too. That's a common false code with many possibilities. His turned out to be the one below if you haven't made this remedy under the Mopar TSB. What draws me to this possibility for your problem? The back pressure may not cause a great power loss, but it could be heating the engine in the locale that creates the problem below. This is the remedy described in a Mopar TSB: REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Cut insulator sleeve, p/n 56028371AA, to make two (2) insulator sleeves about 25-30 mm (1 in.) in length. 2. Install one sleeve around injector #3,with the slit on the upward facing side of the injector. Install the other sleeve with the slit on the downward facing side of the injector. 3. Confirm sleeve is flush to intake manifold surface around injector. 4. Check injector #3 wire and ensure that the injector is rotated to a 2 o'clock position (from driver's side of vehicle). In my friend's case, his engine acted up after parking and a heat soak. Once cooled down, the problem went away. When you drive the Jeep as hard as you describe with the exhaust system in place, it may create the engine heat that triggers this trouble and code. The other idea that comes up is the downstream oxygen sensor, especially with limp mode, but you're not throwing that code. Moses
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