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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Website URL
    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    You're wise to respect force limits, Stuart. Interference always has a cause. It's possible to split a damper hub at its keyway from too much force. Also, it is always wise to isolate the applied force to the damper as you did with the long bolt...I prefer using Grade 5 or 8 rod stock and Grade 5 or 8 nuts and washers to pull the damper onto the hub. The threaded rod stock, threaded into the crankshaft snout first, will not rotate and apply twisting force to the snout threads. The washer and nut pull the damper onto the crankshaft snout. Load is on the rod stock threads. Footnote: Never pound a damper onto the crankshaft snout. The main bear inserts have a set with side thrusts to control crankshaft end float. Avoid pounding or forcing against this internal bearing surface. Moses
  2. Speed, I would use a Ranger pickup as the model to compare. This includes wiring harnesses and coding. A vehicle at the local recycling yard might be a helpful prototype for comparison. I'd be concerned about any electronic interface issues or feedback sensors that might cause dash light false engine or transmission codes. I'd print out copies of the wiring diagrams for each vehicle and lay them side-by-side. See where the differences and similarities exist. The mechanical concerns like shift controls should be visible in a Ranger example or donor vehicle. Anyone have comments to add? Hands on experience with the Ranger and Explorer would help. Moses
  3. You do know how to find them, Speed! This should be a solid truck, basic to work on considering the modern trucks...I'd try the fuel filter first and foremost. This is the most common "suddenly stopped running" fix for EFI systems. TBI is reliable and basic. We can delve deeper if the filter does not do it. Codes are always helpful, even on earlier OBD systems. Moses
  4. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    Nice work, Stuart, appreciating the cooler weather here, too. The electric bill with my Haier portable air conditioner running in my shop leaped up $75 per month during our similarly hot summer. Worth it, at least I was able to continue using the shop. Glad you're getting relief and able to pursue the 4.2L engine build. See my comments below:
  5. Here's what I've heard...
  6. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Really like the results of your work, Ian! This should be a functional, good looking truck soon...
  7. Excellent suggestion if the vehicle has manual locking hubs and neither automatic locking hubs nor unit hub bearings without an axle shaft disconnect...
  8. Speed, here is a well thought out thread at the Ford Explorer site for '97-up V-8 Explorers. Using F150 part-time TC components is an apparent angle, though none of this would be without electronics and electrical work. There are driveline and other considerations: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/convert-v8-awd-to-bw-4406-manual-shift-a-how-to-thread.166726/ This may provide some ideas about the 1993 that you bought...Dig a bit deeper...Is this the V-6 engine? I only see a V-6 listing for 1993. If so, this should be the very reliable 4.0L Capri engine. Moses
  9. Moses Ludel

    1990 Trooper engine change

    Missed this post, Speed...Which transmission does the Trooper use? If an AX-5 or AX--15 Aisin, there would be a way to go with Advance Adapters' Jeep adapters. They mate the AX-5 or AX-15 to a variety of swap engines. The G.M. 4.3L V-6 would be a prospect if it fits the bay. That's a 90-degree V-6. If you must use a 60-degree V-6, you would be better off with a RWD version of the G.M. 3.4L V-6. This is the evolved 2.8L/173 V-6 and a better engine. If 90-degree "V" engines fit, there's also the prospect of the RWD Buick 3.8L V-6, late 1977/1978-up is the improved even-fire design with separate rod throws for each cylinder... The Trooper is a tough vehicle. Well-engineered, lots of stout components. You have something worth building. And for $50? Seriously, this one's a winner. Moses
  10. Wow, Ian, we get the visual! That's a load...How big are the frame modular sections on the CJ-10? This capacity is way beyond the typical CJ-7 of that era. Many CJ-7s and CJ-8s handle loads beyond their GVW. Boxed frames from 1976-up made a huge difference in strength. By the '80s these frames were even stronger, enough to handle stiff lift kit springs and retrofit large axles. Your CJ-10 truck looks like a factory effort to handle a load...How does the frame compare with a J-10 pickup or your Wagoneer? Or is it more like a CJ-7/CJ-8 Scrambler? Moses
  11. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    A project going in the right direction, Ian! This is a quality, permanent repair of a rust prone area. Good that the repair piece is available, obviously there's a demand for repairing these doors. Moses
  12. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Solid repair...Not your first rodeo, Ian! Weld penetration looks good after the finish grinding. Nice work... Where is the replacement panel manufactured? Or did you have a panel stamped? Moses
  13. Speed...To keep with disc front brakes, the Toyota axles might be your best bet. Many 1980-up chain drive transfer case trucks have a left side drop, try for a chain-drive transfer case 4x4 pickup: Dodge Ram (full-size) might be a way to go, they use Dana or AAM axles. Moses
  14. Understand the axle/transfer case drop issue well. Yes, the LUV OEM/factory 4x4 system was IFS. The earlier conversion was likely Spencer Low's kit, which was also popular for Toyota Hi-Lux type pickups prior to the factory beam axle models introduced in 1979. The Low conversion used a beam front axle... Interesting feedback on the Badlands winch. Warn, Superwinch and Smittybilt are either Chinese sub-components ("assembled in the U.S.") or outright China built units. This places Badlands in the same league. Just depends upon the engineering and which Chinese shop makes the units. Service parts availability can be an issue with Chinese-built products. I like your idea of U.S. sourced wire, that's the safety end of the winch...They know quality wire at Elko.
  15. Speed opened another topic on the axle swap...See our discussion at:
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