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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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    Male
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    Reno Area...Nevada
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    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. Stuart...It's all about air volume...The Ingersoll-Rand Garage Mate is great for light air tools, HVLP painting and tire service. It hit the wall, however, when used with the blasting cabinet. Blasting takes a large volume of air and requires a big air tank. At that, even the Air Boy 23 CFM compressor will run intermittently while blasting, which is really a lot of air. The 23 cfm Champion compressor is a beast, so the bead blasting never slows down, even when the compressor is running. I regulate the tank pressure between 125 PSI and 150 PSI, the line pressure is 90-100 PSI. The body shop where this compressor resided for years actually had two large air tanks, the one that came with the compressor and a second tank also filled by this compressor. They had an automatic drain on the compressor and system, which dramatically reduces the risk of the tank(s) rusting out. On that note, I put a Harbor Freight drain on the I-R Garage Mate and need to do something similar (commercial grade) on this 120 gallon tank. I consider myself lucky to have found a big shop grade compressor in good condition. It was used plenty, but not abused, and serviced regularly. There are rebuild kits available for these iron Champion compressor units. If you could find a similar unit, you'd have a lifetime system. Mine is single phase 5 H.P. with a magnetic starter (clunk, clunk!). There are alternatives like the two-stage (not twin-stage) DeVilbiss iron upright unit that I used for years. It had a 230V single phase capacitor start motor and enough CFM for bead blasting; however, it ran at a much higher rpm. That DeVilbiss consumer unit never gave trouble despite rumors that they suck reed valves. I bought the DeVilbiss at Costco in the mid-'nineties for around $800, a bargain in hindsight! Moses
  2. Very interesting, Stuart...I have a commercial washing cabinet and am always concerned about DIY home garage practices. You're basically getting the same cleaning job done as me, although your clean-up takes a few more steps and follow-up chores. The T18 castings and gears look terrific after cleaning! Your propane "cooker" seems to do the trick, very innovative, you can even barbecue afterward to celebrate how clean the parts look...Cleaned parts look like they came from a cabinet washer! I'm using a commercial wash cabinet with a solution that lasts a long time. When the solution is no longer active, I have a commercial company pump the tank. If left dormant long enough, the water evaporates, and I can scrape the dehydrated cleaner/residue from the floor of the cabinet and simply vacuum it up with my Ridgid 1450 shop vacuum. I then pour another round of Goodson washer cabinet soap into fresh water. The system is approximately 53-55 gallon capacity. Some users claim these cabinets are more effective once dirty grease and petroleum products dissolve into the solution. I bought my Walker (no longer in production) washer cabinet new in the mid-'nineties for our larger shop; this machine has paid for itself many times over. The rotating table can support 1,000-pounds (a Cummins engine block, etc.). The table turns slowly while 45 psi nozzles spray heated soluble cleaner from all angles. I use a perforated metal basket for smaller parts, and all parts clean up well. The Walker machine was designed for automotive machine shops. The washer requires 220V (single-phase) for the 2 h.p. high volume pump, two 4500W heating elements and the rotating table. The tank heats to 140-160-degrees F, and I get away with a setting of 140-145 degrees F. The Goodson Tools PJS-50 non-caustic cabinet soap works very well for iron castings and aluminum. This cleaner is an anti-foaming formula. (Commercial pumping is needed for the toxic debris that comes from dirty parts and castings. The pumping cost is unnecessary when I can allow the tank to evaporate naturally then scrape the settled debris and pick it up from the dry tank with the bag-lined shop vacuum.) After a timer cleaning cycle, I crack the door open; all hot parts, castings, etc., will flash dry and not rust. This machine is a keeper, like my 120 gallon compressed air system. I moved the heavy washer cabinet into my smaller 580 sq.ft. studio/garage in 2009 and bought this used 23-CFM Air Boy compressor with a horizontal tank during the Great Recession: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Downsizing-and-Air-Compressors?r=1 If you do any volume of parts cleaning, these washing cabinets do come up in used form during shop liquidations and at tool auctions. Like the compressor, the mechanical condition is critical; there are expensive components that can wear beyond repair. At last year's SEMA Show, CRC showed the SmartWasher®, a washing basin and cleaning solution that will be very popular for "green" shops. See the video [go to 13:13 minutes] for details: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/2018-sema-show-new-products/. Moses
  3. Pleased that you have the low compound first gear ratio! This is a highly desirable gearbox with plenty of stamina for the fresh 4.2L inline six. Nice work and attention to details, Stuart. (Your closing paragraph is rife with critical tips, valuable to builders.) Your effort will deliver for decades! Thanks for sharing the Pro Chem tip. Interesting how effectively the solution works. You "boil" the parts in the solution? Is heat involved, or is this a cold tank solution? It does a great job and makes the work inviting...Are you able to reuse the Pro Chem? Did you pre-clean the case and other parts before the Pro Chem cleaning? Moses
  4. Helpful illustrations and comments, Stuart. Those tackling the Spicer 20 rebuild will appreciate this! Great photos, too. For those seeking detailed, step-by-step instructions on this rebuild, I cover the complete rebuild of the Spicer 20, including bearing endplay shimming, in the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers). Moses
  5. These radiators did use a shroud, Stuart. It's worth having. As long as the shroud captures the air flow through the radiator, it will work well. There are shorter fan spacers available, too. Maybe a 1/2" spacer would work better? Fan spacers are available from aftermarket fan manufacturers like Flex-A-Lite. Quadratec and others offer a new replacement shroud. This illustration should be helpful if you're looking for a used shroud: https://www.quadratec.com/products/51218_100_07.htm?utm_id=go_cmp-1786233520_adg-68197440694_ad-346566180389_pla-713667809956_dev-c_ext-_prd-25868&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERP1R-KZjCF1QKdm_qY9195D2k2kM5vzYCvYfdYqcMTWhoCokXw_wcB Moses
  6. Really looks nice, Stuart...I like your approach, taking time to not overlook details. This should be a 200K-plus engine when you finish. Once past break-in, my recommendation would be either a synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 or Chevron's Supreme with ISOSYN formulation. This is a long stroke engine with lots of piston travel. Protect those fresh cylinder walls and piston rings, and they will deliver many years of service! Looking forward to the T18 and Spicer 20 details. Quite a restoration...The Model 20 AMC rear axle and Dana 30 front each hold up well. Moses
  7. Well, Monty, this is restoration!...Paths are not often clear, but you figured out how this works. 50/50 warm air split split sounds right. These heaters/defrosters actually work well when functional. Suggestion if the control is still apart: Put a piece of very fine wet-and-dry sandpaper on flat glass. Lube the paper with WD-40 or a similar penetrant. Work the pieces in your photo in a circular motion on the surface of the paper. An alternative is Autosol Metal Polish placed directly on the glass, use the same motion with the parts: https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2XSOKCQ8QI8O6&keywords=autosol+metal+polish&qid=1557407568&s=gateway&sprefix=autosol%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-9 .) This will take out any surface warp or scoring. Don't remove any more material than necessary to clean and true up the mating surfaces. The effort will reduce risk of vacuum leaks. Make sure that these mating pieces are tensioned properly to maintain vacuum seal. Moses
  8. Things are looking up there, Speed! The mileage is impressive, and that's the end game with an Explorer...Good progress! Moses
  9. Hi, Monty! Interesting...So, you're applying vacuum to the port at 10 o'clock? It would seem that you need the option of AIR and DEF functioning at the same time. Otherwise, you would have either defrost only or heat (floorboard) only. If AIR is ambient air ducting through the heater core, that would allow heat without the blower on. Typically, the flaps open with vacuum, not with pressurized air. What you would want is to have vacuum apply to the defroster flap with the DEF pushed in. You would want air to flow from the floorboard vents with the AIR pushed in. That should help determine which port on the switch is the vacuum source. Your vacuum supply source should be vacuum from the engine (manifold), a constant source that is either OFF or directed to the AIR or DEF flaps, depending upon the position of the vacuum switch. Make sense? I'll watch for your reply... Moses
  10. Ian, this is fascinating! The derivative Jeep models and even full departures from U.S. models are really something. I like the Combat 6 (Falcon 144/170 powered!) and Nissan diesel engine options. Apparently, the Australian division was given autonomy to serve the country's usage needs. Your CJ10 (J10 'Tonner') and other models look stout and rugged in the marketing photos. There's a bent on utility much like the U.S. vehicles in the day...I like the pragmatism in the design features and continued build of models that worked well—like the CJ-7. Thanks for sharing...Others should really find the information interesting. Jeep had an early presence in Australian. The tall hood CJ-3B happens to be my favorite flat-fender! Moses
  11. I'm rooting for Cummins, too, Ian...I publicized the R2.8L turbo-diesel with enthusiasm, including interviews with Cummins' Steve Sanders. Cummins was confident of an E.O. number from California, as Chevrolet got one on the E-Rod crate V-8 engine (which likely had a domestic vehicle installation prototype with EPA approval). Cummins was actually breaking ground with the effort to approve a crate engine without an EPA vehicle donor. The R2.8L engine meets Euro current and go-forward emissions requirements, way in excess of U.S. standards for Cummins' E.O. attempt, which initially targeted a 1999 or earlier chassis application—just to assure a lower bar for emissions levels. Cummins planned to proceed from there, gradually including later chassis like the Jeep JK and such. Several non-compliance ("49-State") examples are in the field now. You'd like the installs on an FJ62 chassis, FJ40s, Land Rovers and a TJ Wrangler or two. Moses
  12. Speed...Sorry you're health has been a challenge. Rusted bolts can be a huge challenge. For those who have the stamina and patience to wade their way through rusty and broken bolt repairs, here are a couple of useful links. This is HD video coverage on tools specific to this chore: 1) https://www.4wdmechanix.com/otc-tools-how-to-quickly-remove-broken-manifold-studs/ [This demonstration is useful.] 2) https://www.4wdmechanix.com/2018-sema-show-new-products/ [2018 SEMA Show new products; there are a couple of new bolt extracting tools buried in this tour.] Moses
  13. Hi, Ian...The engineer sounds like the California model for Clean Air Resources Board. Engine swaps are legal if two basic criteria are met: 1) engine must be same year or new than chassis and in the same emissions class and 2) the tailpipe tests must show emissions at or below the emissions standard for the original engine in good operating condition. If the swap is legal, the owner takes the vehicle to a "Referee Station" for an inspection around the engine conversion. At California and other states that use this standard, you cannot swap a Class 2 or 3 engine (basically from a heavier light-duty truck or a medium duty GVW truck) into a Class 1 emissions vehicle (a car, SUV or light truck to 6000 pounds GVWR). Our 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4WD is a Class 1 emissions vehicle by this standard: ≤ 6,000 Class 1: ≤ 6,000 lbs Light Duty ≤ 10,000 lbs Light Duty ≤ 10,000 lbs 10,000 Class 2: 6,001-10,000 lbs 14,000 Class 3: 10,001-14,000 lbs Medium Duty 10,001-26,000 lbs Medium Duty 10,001-19,500 lbs 16,000 Class 4: 14,001-16,000 lbs 19,500 Class 5: 16,001-19,500 lbs 26,000 Class 6: 19,501-26,000 lbs Light Heavy Duty 19,501-26,000 lbs 33,000 Class 7: 26,001-33,000 lbs Heavy Duty ≥ 26,001 lbs Heavy Duty ≥ 26,001 lbs > 33,000 Class 8: > 33,000 lbs This stipulation made it impossible to install an Isuzu/GM 3.9L four-cylinder diesel engine into our gasoline XJ Cherokee. (Diesel engine to a gasoline vehicle was not the problem, the engine's use by GVW was the issue.) However, I could put a VW, Volvo passenger car or BMW turbo-diesel engine in this chassis. (Why bother, right?) The requirements are very weird, as the Isuzu engine is relatively clean burning and emissions compliant, but the chassis applications are Emissions Class 2 and 3 trucks. I wanted a 50-State legal result. Advance Adapters was willing to prototype a swap kit, but we agreed that such a venture needed to yield a 50-State legal package. As a point of interest, Cummins is caught in a conundrum with its R2.8L turbo-diesel crate engine. The engine meets requirements for emissions but has no U.S./EPA approved use in a motor vehicle. (Cummins did a joint venture concept vehicle with Nissan. They installed this engine in a Frontier pickup with great results, but the model never went into production, which would have resulted in EPA approval and a legal emissions prototype for certifying the crate engine as a "2019 Nissan Frontier" (Class 1 emissions) engine...Cummins has been trying to certify this crate engine on its own merits to market as a California/50-State legal crate engine package. The California ARB has yet to approve or issue an E.O. number on this engine. The process is in stalemate at present. Moses
  14. This would explain the pedal pumping after setting. Another advantage with the residual valve will be protection against air/moisture absorption into the wheel cylinders when parked. The cups are not sealing snugly, which allows air seepage into the cylinders. This leads to corrosion in the wheel cylinder. Brake fluid is hygroscopic.
  15. On that dual reservoir master cylinder, the disc brake circuit does not hold residual pressure in the circuit. (Disc brakes do not require residual pressure. Late systems use a very slight amount of residual pressure in the 2 PSI range to align the pads gently against the rotors.) If the front disc brake port does not have a residual valve behind the flare seat, your brake wheel cylinder cups will not stay expanded when the brakes are released. Normally, with a drum brake master cylinder, the residual valve(s) will hold 10-12 psi in the lines with the pedal released. This is way less pressure than the shoe return spring tension, so the brake shoes retract completely. The pressure is simply to keep the lips of the rubber wheel cylinder cups/rubber seals expanded and sealing against the bores of the wheel cylinders. If there is no residual pressure, the cups will collapse and allow fluid to seep past these cup seals. The symptom is leaking wheel cylinders. Presumably, you have the disc circuit feeding your front brakes? See whether you have leaks at the front wheel cylinders. There is an add-on residual valve kit available from Wilwood: Wilwood 260-13784 Red 10 PSI Residual Pressure Valve with Fittings. Note the 10 PSI details: https://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch?q=260-13784 Retail listing at Speedway Motors: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-13784-Red-10-PSI-Residual-Pressure-Valve-with-Fittings,233816.html?sku=83526013784&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjw96fkBRA2EiwAKZjFTZfzhD5bHQQW52MUkfip0KrI7uiA-8G-AXfYXn9p53xarubLoyC89hoCrZIQAvD_BwE This kit enables adding a residual valve at a fluid line rather than fiddling with the master cylinder's port flare seat. You'll get the idea when you see the valves. There is also a 2 PSI valve available, but this is for a disc brake circuit. Modern disc brake systems do use a very low amount of residual pressure to keep pads closer to the rotor.
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