Jump to content

Moses Ludel

Administrators
  • Content Count

    3,419
  • Joined

  • Last visited

6 Followers

About Moses Ludel

  • Rank
    Administrator

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

Recent Profile Visitors

7,757 profile views
  1. Speed...The SM465 has a compound low of 6.55:1; the NP435L and NP435E versions have the sought after compound low of 6.68:1; the sought after SM420 has a 7.05:1 compound low gear. There are taller geared versions of the NP435 and SM420. I believe all SM465 units are 6.55:1 in 1st gear. Always check the 1st gear ratio before buying any of these units. The NP435 dates to 1962, so there are applications with an E-brake on the output end. 'Sixties and even later medium duty truck applications of the NP435 and SM465 should turn up an E-brake at the output. Here is a nice rundown of the NP435 applications. I-H and GM medium-duty models would be a place to start: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2015/11/New-Process-435-Four-speed-Transmission/3749160.html The Clark transmission is a good default position. They were found in trucks similar to yours and work well for their intended usage. I serviced and drove that early 'fifties I-H medium duty with the RD406 inline six and Clark 5-speed. It worked perfectly fine and kept my double-clutching skills sharp. Higher compression with a long stroke vintage engine design has always been dicey. Running a maximum of 8:1, possibly 8.5:1, seems plenty for any of these engines. Your rpm ceiling makes perfect sense, 3000 rpm is well up there, though I'm sure vintage racers reached 4,500-5,000 rpm. For how long? Anyone's guess. Moses
  2. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Ian, I'm sure your Aussie Willys 4WD Pickup will draw much attention as those miles accumulate!
  3. This is a good question, Speed. You need enough clutch master cylinder piston stroke and pedal travel to displace enough fluid to release the clutch. The clutch slave/release bearing must travel far enough to move the clutch cover pressure plate away from the clutch disk. If your pedal hits the floor too soon, without displacing enough fluid, the clutch fingers will not go far enough to release the clutch. Your concern here would be pedal travel. Do you need the pedal to travel further? If so, a longer pedal pushrod would help, and that would raise the pedal further from the floorboard. In any case, when the pedal is fully released, there should be a slight gap between the pedal pushrod and the clutch master cylinder piston. This enables the clutch master cylinder's piston to fully retract, which enables the clutch master cylinder to displace enough fluid when the clutch pedal moves the pushrod over its full range of travel. Another overlooked possibility is a clutch master cylinder piston seal that simply does not hold fluid and pressure properly. Fluid could be seeping past the piston seal and not moving through the hydraulic line into the clutch hydraulic release bearing. This happens with brake master cylinders as well. Glad you're working out the rest of the vehicle's wrinkles... Moses
  4. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Ian...The windshield installation looks fantastic, this involved two-piece glass and divider is a vintage cue. Worth the extensive effort, the windshield gives the truck an authentic "look"... Quite a project, you persevered! Nice work...The tray/flatbed deck at the back should do it...Is the powertrain ready for the long haul? Moses
  5. Busy, busy. Where do you source quality switches? Jeep XJs have a laundry list of switches that fail. Explorer, too?
  6. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Will share your praise for the 400 with my son, he's heard it from me, but your view is hands-on...Apparently, there's a reason for the cult following...I'm drawn to the dry-sump oiling system and oil cooler...This is as good as it gets for an air-cooled engine (ask Porsche) and why I am storing a vintage XR500R for restoration. My 1984 XR350R is a wet sump. Both of these models have dual carburetors...The 400 is a single carburetor model, simpler if not "better".
  7. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Knew you had the front earmarked for disc brakes, was that a Jeep-parts conversion? Are you keeping the master cylinder beneath the floorboard? The master cylinder needs to be 4-wheel disc brake application; drum brake master cylinder outlet ports will have residual pressure valves. On my '55 CJ 4-wheel disc conversion, the drum-type dual master cylinder required removal of residual pressure valves from the master cylinder's outlet ports. (Valves are behind the removable flare seats.) This is a 1972 Jeep CJ master cylinder for a four-wheel drum brake system. Note the two residual check-valves, one for each end of the vehicle's braking system. Converting to disc brakes, I removed these residual check valves and springs then carefully reinstalled the flare seats. The first Jeep CJs with disc front/drum rear brakes have a check valve at the rear drum port and no check valve at the front disc brake system. This 1973-80 Chilton image shows a tandem master cylinder with one check valve on the rear (drum) brake circuit and no check valve on the front (disc brake) system. Late model vehicles have residual (very low pressure) devices just to keep pads next to the rotors and prevent lag on brake application. Late disc brake applications do have low hydraulic residual pressure, just enough to keep pads close to the rotors. This pressure, however, is lower than drum brake residual valve pressure. Drum brake residual pressure keeps the wheel cylinder cups expanded and sealing. Stout brake shoe return springs overcome the residual pressure and keep the shoes from pressing against the drum and dragging. Typical residual pressure for a drum brake Jeep master cylinder would be 10-12 psi. (Aftermarket Wilwood residual valves for drum brakes are around 10 psi.) This is well below the shoe retraction spring tension. This residual pressure level, however, would be high enough to cause disc brake pads to drag on the rotors. This amount of residual pressure will cause premature pad wear, overheating of the rotors, brake drag and even wheel lockup if applied within a disc brake system. Speedway Motors offers a 2 psi residual valve (inline mounted) for disc brake systems that use a beneath-the-floorboard master cylinder. They hint that the firewall mounted cylinders have enough gravity feed pressure (not sure about this one) to overcome a spongy pedal or slight lag when applying the disc brakes. My dual drum brake master cylinder, mounted beneath the floorboard with both residual valves removed, feeds front and rear disc brakes without timing/lag issues or pedal sponginess. Earlier OEM disc/drum systems have no residual pressure valve on the disc brake portion of the braking system although these systems do have firewall mounted master cylinders. The 2 psi residual valve would be like late four-wheel disc systems. You can watch for any signs of lag or pedal sponginess. These 2 psi valves are available if needed.
  8. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Did you like the XR400R? There's a cult following, and my son picked one up with only 134 original miles (nubs still on the tires!). It's stored at the moment, and we'll ride this Spring. Air cooled with dry sump, should be a nice trail and desert bike...
  9. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    So, Samurai front rotors for the rear and front of your 3B or for the rear only? Another approach at the front? This should be adequate at the rear. You may need a proportioning valve although the short wheelbase (80" in your case) often offsets vehicle pitch. A mechanical proportioning valve is available from Wilwood and others if you need it. If you're still running the Model 18 transfer case, you do have an E-brake on the rear driveshaft. In good condition without oil on the shoes, these brakes are tried and proven. Moses
  10. Moses Ludel

    YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    Wow, thanks for the update! I've been in a dialogue with a local KTM 250 owner who is considering that clutch. He has the older technology Rekluse and likes it a lot. I'll share both of your findings, the Boyeson Rad Valve also sounds impressive! The Moab trip with bikes would be fun, I've considered doing it many times, talking myself out of taking an XR during Easter Jeep Safari, which for me is always a "work week". On that note, I would avoid sharing trails with the 20K people who flood Moab for EJS, the rates for lodging and food get inflated badly during the EJS week. City Market holds to normal pricing for those camping out; the market is part of Kroger's chain and deserves a plug!
  11. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Glad your work on the XR650L turned out well and that you caught the valve adjustment need right away. Would be a shame to damage a fresh valve job...The Africa Twin is bigger than my XR650R, which is actually okay with single track. Weight is a large factor. Tires can make a big difference, your findings will be helpful to other owners of Africa Twins. Your Africa Twin has the manual clutch, right? Not the semi-automatic transmission...I spent time at the local dealer at Reno, the floor model was the semi-automatic. I'm old school here.
  12. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Do these brackets work with GM S/T truck calipers and OE replacement (late '70s to '86) Jeep CJ rotors? If so, they could be the brackets or at least similar to the type Warn produced. (As you know, Warn has been based at Clackamas and Milwaukee, Oregon.) I used that style bracket with Warn's recommended GM single piston calipers and the correct diameter and thickness rotors...$200 for the complete conversion is terrific! Good job...
  13. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    Stuart, you're right where you want to be on #1, #4 and #5 cylinders. The MPR-301 might be a consideration for the #2, #3 and #6 pushrods that now have 0.052" preload. That would be a 9.594" pushrod, which would reduce preload by 0.028". The current three valves with 0.052" preload would have 0.024" preload with the MPR-301 pushrods. 0.024" is just enough preload and would increase slightly with normal valve wear. To save the hassle, I would stick with the current pushrods (0.052" preload) to assure adequate preload. You have plenty of lifter plunger travel for the 0.052" preload plus an allowance for normal valve and seat wear over time. If you're curious, the lifter plunger travel can be easily measured from its fully extended plunger (against the retainer clip) to the fully depressed plunger with no oil in the plunger cavity. (This should be done with the lifter just out of the box or without priming.) You're measuring the total travel available. Subtract the preload amount, and you have the remaining travel. Make sure you add a zinc engine break-in supplement before running the fresh engine. Lucas and others make a supplement specifically for this purpose. Contemporary oils do not have zinc additive, and you need a zinc additive to protect the (flat tappet) camshaft lobe-to-lifter base. Protect the cam-and-lifters during the break-in period. Many continue to add a ZDDP additive after break-in. The biggest concern is the break-in period. Moses
  14. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Hi, 53HiHood! The 6-stud axle flange pattern is common to all Dana/Spicer light axles and also used by others. There may be a flange ring used for spacing or as a bearing retainer, etc. Poke around, see what's out there, maybe early Ford or an F-truck with a Spicer 44 rear axle (1949-56). '55 (Second Series) to mid-'sixties GMC light trucks also used Spicer 44/45 rear axles. Lincoln, Studebaker and others also used the Spicer 44-type axle, too. Bearing retainer rings might work. Or backing plates could be TorchMate/plasma cut to make flange rings. Plasma cutting two plates with a TorchMate would not be difficult, you can use the original axle flange ends or Jeep axle bearing end-play shims as a pattern. You're simply creating a spacer, not a support/safety member like a caliper mounting bracket...Use the right metal for the application. Moses
  15. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    Hi, Stuart...Thanks for sharing the CompCams adjustable pushrod tool with Members and Guests! Below is a listing of the various Melling pushrod lengths. You may be as close as it gets with the current pushrods, and there is plenty of reserve plunger travel within the lifters. Would the next available pushrod (shorter) create too little preload? Here are typical Melling offerings for the pre-4.0L era inline sixes (258/4.2L). You likely were sold the Melling MPR-301 or MPR-333 pushrods installed, depending upon your cylinder head type. When selecting pushrods, make sure the ball ends and lubrication method are correct for your engine application: [MELLING OEM REPLACEMENT PUSH RODS FOR AMC 258/4.2L INLINE SIXES] MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1971-1974 without Rocker Arm Shaft MRP-332 9.658” x 5/16 1971-1974 with Rocker Arm Shaft (BB ends) MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1975-1976 MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1977 w/ Temp Sending Unit in front of engine MPR-333 9.622” x 5/16 1977 w/ Temp Sending Unit in rear of engine MPR-333 9.622” x 5/16 1978-1980 MPR-353 9.700” x 5/16 1981-1988 So this is a classic example of valve work and decking/milling. The plunger preload for a "standard" (1977 4.2L/258 OE replacement length) pushrod has increased, likely due to the head height being lower. Your cylinder head was surfaced, right? Block was surfaced/decked, too? Even the head gasket thickness can impact the lifter preload, then there's always the valve seat depth and valve stem height. If the original cast seats were cut (no steel inserts installed), this raised the valve stem height and increased valve lifter preload. This was a smart test, Stuart. You could have second guessed that there was reasonably close preload, but this approach eliminates that guesswork. Curious to see whether all of these standard length pushrods will work. Moses
×