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  1. Yesterday
  2. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    You're wise to respect force limits, Stuart. Interference always has a cause. It's possible to split a damper hub at its keyway from too much force. Also, it is always wise to isolate the applied force to the damper as you did with the long bolt...I prefer using Grade 5 or 8 rod stock and Grade 5 or 8 nuts and washers to pull the damper onto the hub. The threaded rod stock, threaded into the crankshaft snout first, will not rotate and apply twisting force to the snout threads. The washer and nut pull the damper onto the crankshaft snout. Load is on the rod stock threads. Footnote: Never pound a damper onto the crankshaft snout. The main bear inserts have a set with side thrusts to control crankshaft end float. Avoid pounding or forcing against this internal bearing surface. Moses
  3. Speed, I would use a Ranger pickup as the model to compare. This includes wiring harnesses and coding. A vehicle at the local recycling yard might be a helpful prototype for comparison. I'd be concerned about any electronic interface issues or feedback sensors that might cause dash light false engine or transmission codes. I'd print out copies of the wiring diagrams for each vehicle and lay them side-by-side. See where the differences and similarities exist. The mechanical concerns like shift controls should be visible in a Ranger example or donor vehicle. Anyone have comments to add? Hands on experience with the Ranger and Explorer would help. Moses
  4. You do know how to find them, Speed! This should be a solid truck, basic to work on considering the modern trucks...I'd try the fuel filter first and foremost. This is the most common "suddenly stopped running" fix for EFI systems. TBI is reliable and basic. We can delve deeper if the filter does not do it. Codes are always helpful, even on earlier OBD systems. Moses
  5. I know-OH GREAT-he has ANOTHER problem child to heal! This one is a 1990 GMC K2500 Extra Cab 4X4;5.7L,700-R4 The PO says it quit him on the highway,he put a new fuel pump in it and it still wouldn't start. Here's what I've tried so far. I listened for the pump running,it did, dumped 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank (The gauge showed empty),tried bleeding the lines to the T/B,the left pipe showed fuel,the right side pipe,not so much,(It was EXTREMELY tight,and the nut was rounded,it took a pipe wrench to finally get it loose),and that's about all I had time for. I suspect maybe A-an ignition module B-an ECM C-a plugged fuel filter Next will be checking the codes,which I SHOULD have started with,but I really expected it to be an easy fix. Other issues with this truck are 2 light bulbs out,the right fender scuffs the door,the left window (power) is missing a piece of the channel and the switch doesn't work,and the shift indicator doesn't work. I'd be surprised if the A/C works. Speed
  6. I just acquired a manual shift T/C that,at first glance,looks like it'll work in my Exploder. It was removed from a Ranger around the same age (?) because the owner thought it was the cause of a vibration,but even with another T/C the vibration remained just as bad. It was traced to a bent driveline. I'm not at all familiar with these Ford set-ups,so I don't know how this'll work out. Might need driveline work,and will need a shifter. don't know yet if it'll bolt to my transmission. I notice when I change the hubs to locking hubs there's an "adapter kit" I'll need (for an additional $60.00). What does it consist of,and why is it needed? Used to be the Ford dealer's Parts Man could tell me what fits,what doesn't and what it takes to MAKE it fit anyway,but this kid doesn't know anything about vehicles older than 2000,and THEN,if it isn't in the books it doesn't exist. Anybody out there been through this particular swap? Any knowledge,experience or bits of wisdom will be appreciated. Speed
  7. Stuart_Snow

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    This is all I can figure. My vertical alignment is good. I'm glad I test fit the cover or I wouldn't have noticed this problem. Yes and I remembered to use sealer on the back where it mates against the oil slinger. My CJ re-builders guide helped me head off trouble here. I used a longer bolt to pull the ballancer on and the extra threads saved me when the forces got too hard. Lucky thing I decided to back off and figure out what was wrong.
  8. Last week
  9. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    Nice work, Stuart, appreciating the cooler weather here, too. The electric bill with my Haier portable air conditioner running in my shop leaped up $75 per month during our similarly hot summer. Worth it, at least I was able to continue using the shop. Glad you're getting relief and able to pursue the 4.2L engine build. See my comments below:
  10. Stuart_Snow

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    The long hot summer is over and I'm finally able to get some things done and update progress. The new by-bass valve retainer has been installed. Thank You Moses! Pistons tapped int place with no trouble. I had some trouble with the front timing cover spacing clearing the cam gear retainer bolt. My solution was to glue two timing cover gaskets together which gave me the clearance need to to keep the cam gear retainer bolt from grinding against to timing cover. The replacement harmonic balancer did not want go on without ridiculous amounts of force so I backed it off several times and finally had to remove and lightly polish the mating surfaces. It went on normally after that. I used the 4 piece oil pan gasket and spent a lot of time making sure I had potential leak area well sealed. The oil pan is now on so we will see how that works. At some point I realized that my water pump pulley was missing from this project. I thought this was no problem until I learned how hard they are to find for a two groove early 4.2 engine. Mine is a 77. I brought one home from our local AMC jeep salvage yard which turned out to be from an 87 YJ. This is a problem since apparently the later 4.2 engines used a pulley and water pump combination with a shallower offset which causes the belt to not align properly on my 77 engine. I briefly considered using a later model water pump that doesn't stick out so far but didn't know what other problems that would introduce. I finally found a salvage one on E-bay from Southwest off road in New Mexico. This part seem to be the right fit from a 76-86 4.2 engine so I am back in business.
  11. Earlier
  12. Here's what I've heard...
  13. What I'm hearing is that the shift motor is a weak point on this system,though on this truck I think there's an electrical issue. Neither switch on the dash lights up,so today I'll be checking/replacing fuses and looking for a possible relay that might also be faulty. I suppose if I can make it work again I can live with the electric shift set up until Spring. Since the clutch M/C I bought comes without a pushrod or the connection to the pedal I can't do the install until Monday or so,so I've been working on other things it needs,wiper blades,light bulb replacements,adjusting doors,etc. I'll be spending some time reading the repair manual on it and studying the wiring diagrams to figure out what goes where. I'm lucky,my favorite wrecking yard over in Wells has 3 of these,so parts shouldn't be a huge problem. BTW-all the gauges work fine except it hasn't shown any oil pressure;I suspect the wire's off the sender,or the sender's bad. I know replacing the sender on the BroncWorth gave it 15 pounds more oil pressure,'course it was already showing about 20#'s warmed up. This one is completely flatlined,making me think the wire's off or broken. =========================================================================================================================== A new development on the clutch issue. The P.O. apparently lost the clutch M/C,pushrod AND the "slave cylinder" he said he replaced is a hydraulic release bearing,so I'm pretty sure he wouldn't have pulled the transmission just to replace a throw-out bearing. it doesn't look to have been tampered with,so I ordered a new one piece sealed and bled clutch hydraulic set up,and a new clutch. Once it arrives I'll pull the transmission out a couple of feet,send the flywheel to be resurfaced and reassemble it with new parts. Also,I expect to have to replace some power window switches and the power mirror switch,since both mirrors adjust but only one direction. A couple of window switches are sketchy too. I might get a can of contact cleaner and see if I can "tune 'em up". =========================================================================================================================== On the electric T/C,I checked out the link you posted. Thanks for posting it. I've decided my best bet will be to make the stock set up work again,and spend some time researching other ways to get the set up I want,maybe an earlier pre-electric shift transfer case,like the one in my '84 BroncWorth,could be arranged.
  14. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Really like the results of your work, Ian! This should be a functional, good looking truck soon...
  15. here we go pics of it outside in natural light
  16. took the day off work today it was great painting weather & not having a spray booth i have to pick the right day & there are way too many bugs in the evening now once i can uncover the engine ill drive it out of the shed for some day light pics but im happy with it its not my best panel job but it is a 4wd cheers ian
  17. Excellent suggestion if the vehicle has manual locking hubs and neither automatic locking hubs nor unit hub bearings without an axle shaft disconnect...
  18. Speed, here is a well thought out thread at the Ford Explorer site for '97-up V-8 Explorers. Using F150 part-time TC components is an apparent angle, though none of this would be without electronics and electrical work. There are driveline and other considerations: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/convert-v8-awd-to-bw-4406-manual-shift-a-how-to-thread.166726/ This may provide some ideas about the 1993 that you bought...Dig a bit deeper...Is this the V-6 engine? I only see a V-6 listing for 1993. If so, this should be the very reliable 4.0L Capri engine. Moses
  19. I just bought a '93 Explorer four door,with a 5 speed,for $350.00. Its main issue is the clutch master cylinder is shot,it has a new slave cylinder. Drove it home from Wells to Elko,about 50 miles,and it drove GREAT! It needs a bunch of little stuff done,door hinges,a gauge replacement,a power window repair etc.but what I want to know is how to convert the full time 4WD to part time with locking hubs. The 4 wheel drive doesn't work-the seller says he tracked it down to the T/C motor,so if I'm going to work on it I'd like to see if there's a way to change it over to a cable shift or better yet an actual linkage and shifter. Any ideas anyone? Is a kit offered somewhere? Speed
  20. The trick to the locker in both axles is when you side hill it,unlock the hub on the up hill wheel. This allows it to act as a rudder to keep the rig pointed where you want to go. Speed
  21. Moses Ludel

    1990 Trooper engine change

    Missed this post, Speed...Which transmission does the Trooper use? If an AX-5 or AX--15 Aisin, there would be a way to go with Advance Adapters' Jeep adapters. They mate the AX-5 or AX-15 to a variety of swap engines. The G.M. 4.3L V-6 would be a prospect if it fits the bay. That's a 90-degree V-6. If you must use a 60-degree V-6, you would be better off with a RWD version of the G.M. 3.4L V-6. This is the evolved 2.8L/173 V-6 and a better engine. If 90-degree "V" engines fit, there's also the prospect of the RWD Buick 3.8L V-6, late 1977/1978-up is the improved even-fire design with separate rod throws for each cylinder... The Trooper is a tough vehicle. Well-engineered, lots of stout components. You have something worth building. And for $50? Seriously, this one's a winner. Moses
  22. Wow, Ian, we get the visual! That's a load...How big are the frame modular sections on the CJ-10? This capacity is way beyond the typical CJ-7 of that era. Many CJ-7s and CJ-8s handle loads beyond their GVW. Boxed frames from 1976-up made a huge difference in strength. By the '80s these frames were even stronger, enough to handle stiff lift kit springs and retrofit large axles. Your CJ-10 truck looks like a factory effort to handle a load...How does the frame compare with a J-10 pickup or your Wagoneer? Or is it more like a CJ-7/CJ-8 Scrambler? Moses
  23. i should treat the old girl a bit better but it is a work ute after all id like to see a modern ute do this thats 2200kg on its back & it took it in its stride i used to have a 75 series land cruiser & it wouldnt of had a hope in sitting that level its tow bar would have nearly been touching the ground had i tried this with it cheers ian
  24. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    A project going in the right direction, Ian! This is a quality, permanent repair of a rust prone area. Good that the repair piece is available, obviously there's a demand for repairing these doors. Moses
  25. I bought the patch panel from Kaiser Willys but the inner piece i bent up myself ive done the little bit of bog (bondo) work & primed it dont want it going rusty already unfortunately i wont be around to paint it next weekend so itll have to wait 2 weeks but ill get it in spray putty & all rubbed down after work during the week then itll be quicker when i get time to paint cheers ian
  26. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Solid repair...Not your first rodeo, Ian! Weld penetration looks good after the finish grinding. Nice work... Where is the replacement panel manufactured? Or did you have a panel stamped? Moses
  27. ive been busy this weekend this is the last body repair before i prep it for paint its coming along nicely ive found a bit of motivation lately & the more progress i make the more keen im getting😃
  28. Speed...To keep with disc front brakes, the Toyota axles might be your best bet. Many 1980-up chain drive transfer case trucks have a left side drop, try for a chain-drive transfer case 4x4 pickup: Dodge Ram (full-size) might be a way to go, they use Dana or AAM axles. Moses
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