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  3. I got a shifter from a friend,but still need the pivot bolt. I have a ball valve handle that almost fits the transfer case,I think with a little careful filing I can make it fit. Then all I need to do is cut it down to the right length,drill a hole for the shift rod end to go into and engineer an adjuster of some sort for the rod,in case the length isn't exactly right. (I suspect this shifter is off a full size Ford truck,so I don't know if it mounts in the same place on the transmission.) I ALSO need to find out what size the threads are for the pivot bolt,I think I'll have to make one to get the right shape. I'll STILL need a set of locking hubs. I was told the ABS and Cruise Control are somehow linked to each other on the Explorer (Through the ECM??) so,if the ABS fails to work,it's likely the Cruise won't work either. Sounds weird to me,but I've seen weirder things designed into vehicles. I'm hoping to avoid the wrecking yards,since the closest one to me is a 100 mile round trip. Speed
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  5. Sounds like a plan...Getting your ducks in a row. Researching the legal constraints.
  6. Makes sense...Smoke test is easier than using a vacuum pump. You can pinpoint the leak location visually.
  7. Donor vehicles are a crapshoot. Ideally, you'll find a wrecking yard with the vehicle you need. Timing seems to dictate success with finding these parts.
  8. I'm adding that 10 psi residual valve to my shopping list. Looking back,with all the gearing this truck already has,I guess it doesn't matter how low first gear is,so that makes the transmission search a lot easier. I'd STILL like to find the transmission mounted E-brake though,but NOT to use on the main box. I just want to use the lever and ratchet assembly,and I'll build a rod long enough to reach from the stock E-brake lever to the brake on the back of the Brownie,to replace the cable operated "on or off" lever in the cab. I'm starting to think,AGAIN,about working this truck;Scrap metal is so low here it doesn't even pay enough to buy the gas it takes to haul a car to the scrap yard in Osino,so I'm looking into maybe hauling 3 or 4 cars at a time up to Idaho Falls,to the salvage plant there-IF the price is high enough to be worth the trip. If I'm getting good info,as long as I'm not hauling FOR someone,I'm just transporting my OWN metal,for MYSELF,so the DOT shouldn't bother me,as long as I don't go over the 26,000 weight limit or overload my truck's safe load limit. (According to my figures I'd have a very generous 18,000 before I'm anywhere close to 26,000.) I know I'd probably eventually end up having to scale it for those reasons,and I expect they'd be doing safety inspections,just because of the age of the truck. I think I can go North to Mountain Home,cross I-84 and there's a side road up to Idaho Falls that doesn't have a scale house,but I need to ride the bike up there and verify my information. Speed
  9. Well,changing the controls didn't make any difference on the Cruise Control,so the next move is going to the Shop and using the "Smoke Machine" to try to track down vacuum leaks. Not really sure what else it could be,and the repair manuals studiously avoid mentioning the diagnostics or repair of ANY of the accessories. This is the FIRST truck with Cruise I've ever owned that DIDN'T work. Speed
  10. I think I'll be looking at a trip to Pick-N-Pull for seats next time they have a Half Price Day. Speed
  11. Hey,I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row to convert my '93 Exploder to a manual-shifted Transfer Case and still need a few parts. I need the shifter,complete with the pivot bolt and the tab to attach the shifting rod to the shifting fork in the T/C,and a set of locking hubs,with the related wheel bearing nuts,jam-nuts and springs,etc. Stock ones are fine,I'm not that rough on drivetrain. If anyone has spares they won't need,let me know what you want for them and I'll give it a go. BTW-I'm told the shifter from a B-II or Ranger with a manual T/C is a bolt-in,but since I don't have one of THOSE to spare EITHER,I guess I won't know,unless YOU can clue me in. While I have it apart for this,I'll be replacing the ENTIRE clutch,including hydraulics,since I already have everything for it. Not sure if I can get this done before next Spring,as I also have a Toyota truck I need to swap both axles and all the springs from my "rolling wreck" into,as well as installing a new clutch,which I can't do until I replace the engine and clutch on mt Chevy one ton truck,so I'll have something to haul/tow with. (I have a feeling this Toyota will become a much more extensive project than I wanted it to be. Anyway,any help,knowledge or advice is appreciated. Thanks!! Speed
  12. Ian, I sensed there is a professional side to Graham Hill. He's been in front of the camera quite a bit and shows it. Nice solo job with the YouTube coverage of the Holland Track. I'll make a point of checking out the Australian 4WD Action programming... "Harry" the FSJ has a job cut out! Your outdoor travels are remote and require a vehicle in top shape—plus lots of planning and preparedness...The Simpson Desert sounds like a helluva run! Moses
  13. Hi Moses Sorry for the slow reply but ive been working away im glad you enjoyed his video this ausolo series is just what he does when hes not away working with australian 4wd action he is 1 of the presenters on that show where he is sponsored by isuzu & drives a d-max they tackle some pretty tough terrain at times they are also on youtube just look up 4wd action there are quite a few videos up loaded & quite amusing to Ive met Graham a couple of times now & hes as friendly & jovial in person as he is on film probably even funnier the FSJ aka Harry will be getting a good going over during the next year as ive been offered the opportunity to do a trip through the simpson desert in about 12 months so ill have so same my pennies & make sure Harry is in tip top shape mechanically & electrically so im really hoping it will all come together for me cheers ian
  14. I installed TJ Wrangler Bestop seats in the XJ Cherokee, and they work great. However, they crowd the console and tunnel like you hint. I had to do a lot of work with the sub-frames, including fabrication of "adapter" mounting brackets to allow use of the OEM Jeep floor mounts and slide adjusters. It was ultimately a "bolt-in" after fabricating the adapters, which required welding and use of my Harbor Freight bandsaw. Realistically, lots of work but worth ditching the stock, flimsy Cherokee seats. Explore the later Toyota pickups and Toyota passenger cars. See if you can devise a suitable factory parts swap. It's always easier than aftermarket unless a model specific seat package is available for your year/model Toyota pickup. Then there's the option of rebuilding your original seat frames and having the upholstery and padding upgraded. Moses
  15. Hi, Speed...The 4.0L will swap with a major amount of wiring work, some even suggesting a dashboard change. The Explorer engine and ECM harness, a degree in electrical engineering and lots of time on your hands might see this through to completion. Your carbureted '84 Bronco II chassis raises the bar on the wiring dilemma, even for a 2.9L EFI engine swap. Here's a useful exchange about the swap options and chores. Some comments seem more valid than others: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1004706-85-bronco-ii-engine-swap-what-are-my-opitions.html Would I do it? I'd likely go with a 302 V-8 and aftermarket plug-and-play FoMoCo Motorsports, Painless or street rod wiring harness. The 4.0L V-6 is considerable gain, but a 302 would be substantially better. Improved radiator cooling and other chores, like exhaust modifications and engine mounts, would run up the tab. I have toyed with the Ford 302 H.O. pushrod MPI V-8 as a potential swap into our XJ Cherokee. It's a lot of work and commitment... Moses
  16. Just out of curiosity,how much of a bag of snakes is it to swap a '93 Explorer 4.0 into an '84 Bronco II? Happens I have a '93 parts truck with all the electrics and a good 4.0 now....Only thing is that my '84 is a 5 speed,which I want to keep,but the 4.0 is an automatic. Speed
  17. I decided my best move is to swap my '81 Yota axles over to the '82,swap the P/S set up over,and pull the engine,Transmission and T/C and whatever else could be used from the '81 and scrap the rest. I REALLY don't need ANOTHER truck,and this one (the '81) needs too much work to save. I'll get the '81 up on stands under the frame,pull the wheels off and borrow a set of those wheel dollies,pull the front and rear axles and springs complete and wheel them over under the other truck and jack them up into place. I bought new urethane bushings to use under the other truck,but will have to buy new bolts and lock nuts for the springs since they weren't included in the sets. I MIGHT invest in shocks for it while I'm at it. In the meantime,I installed the new bracket and 105@ 10si alternator on the '82,and have some 100W headlights for it that I won't install until the truck is functional. The '82's front fenders are pretty whanged up on the front edges,so I'm looking at cutting the bottom foot off the front of each one. I'll also swap as much of the brake system over as I can,since it's all new on the '81. I'll buy a set of stock mirrors for the '82,that'll only cost around $60.00. I'll ALSO want an electric fuel pump for it,I might have one in the garage somewhere. I MIGHT consider a better set of seats,since these are hammered and the frames are pretty flimsy. What's a good fit in the Yota pick up? Not a lot of room in those things. If I can find an A/C compressor and bracket for a 22R motor I'll set it up with on-board air. One more thing I'm considering is using the gas tank from the '81 as a second tank for the '82. I think I can mount it on the left side similar to the stock location,and just put the filler tube into the truck bed. I figure that'll give it about 600 miles range. I'd put a manual selector valve in the lines and wire both senders through a "left-off-right" toggle switch My friend Ben says he'd build me a set of bumpers,a grille guard and a hitch for it,with a suitable degree of overkill. I might put a winch on it,or just a spotter hitch,which I can then plug my 5K winch into at either end of the truck. Speed
  18. Okay,got all four ball joints and the tie rod ends done,got it aligned (twice),and apparently the lower axle ends are slightly bent,so the alignment is maxed out even with the 2 degree bushings. Apparently the previous owner had bent them playing "Dukes Of Hazard" with the truck. The Ford dealer has a place in Kentucky that straightens them but with the shipping,tear-down and reassembly of the front end,ANOTHER alignment and the cost of the repair I'm figuring it'd be cheaper to just swap in the front end from the parts truck,replace the ball joints AGAIN and get ANOTHER alignment. A job for another life,I think. I drove it to SLC and back a couple of days ago to bring back a friend from his Cancer treatment. I averaged about 19.4 mpg,mostly due to a lot of speeding up and slowing down. The intermittent power window's been working fine for almost 2 weeks. (Hope I didn't jinx it.) Had a little go-round with the ABS-it was acting up and the shop replaced a module,which fixed it. Then,in SLC,a guy cut me off and I had to do a sudden stop. Unfortunately,it happened just as I got the right side wheels on a steel plate covering a hole in the road,and one front tire slid more than the other,and*triggered the ABS light again. Now it stays off sometimes,then goes on for no reason. Sometimes shutting the truck off for about 10 seconds will clear it,sometimes it'll clear for a block or two then light again,sometimes it just won't clear at all. I don't think I'll sweat it for now-the brakes still work fine. One thing I know I want fixed is he cruise control-I really need it if I want to improve my gas mileage. Speed
  19. Ian, I took the time to play through Graham Cahill's video—twice...This is an incredible work, not to mention a great historical account of the Holland Track. Cahill has it down. I do a lot of video, and his one-man-show videography, narrative and post-production editing are first rate. He uses minimal tools: a light digital/video camera, an inexpensive drone and a selfie stick! His sets are really well done, the meals, campfire, his rabbit cookout, the steak, watering holes, the granite, on and on. Thanks much for sharing this, the aerials give much more perspective to the vastness of that country...Does Cahill do this strictly as an avocational/recreational thing? Is he producing videos for sale or rental? He really should be...The rig is purpose built, he's got the whole package. So, now I get it. When you do the Holland Track, you're on for the ride. Glad your FSJ is in good condition and well equipped. One motorcyclist and a 4x4 each 11 days make for awfully light traffic! Wow, what a great venue... Moses
  20. Hi Moses I thought i would add this link to this thread as this guy is well known aussie off roader & he has captured the holland track (which i did a while back )thought you might enjoy it cheers ian
  21. Quite a Jeep fleet, Ian, much variety as well! The CJs are always fun for recreational use, the FSJ has the right wheelbase and ride quality for highway and all-around use. The Willys makes a great parade vehicle; too much restoration and detailing work to risk damage as an off-road vehicle, though they were workhorses in the day. Willys handling/ride quality is archaic...The CJ5 and CJ6 will handle the beaches well. Next year's charity rally sounds worthwhile for a lengthy outback trip with the FSJ! Over the years, with moves that resulted in less storage space, we've trimmed our approach. The '99 XJ Cherokee has proven to be a tough all-around vehicle. Ride quality is good with the 6-inch long arm suspension and 33" tires, the 4.0L engine with AW4 automatic is a rugged package. I fit the axles with 4.10 gears and ARB Air Lockers, and the vehicle has worked as a daily driver and for highway use, mild off-roading and even as a moderate rock crawler. The latter has been kept to a bare minimum, mostly for publicity shots and filming at places like Moab. The odometer reads 176K miles on this vehicle, we bought it stone stock at 94K. The only fixes have been a new water pump, radiator, brake service, front unit hubs, driveline upgrades, and I just installed a rear main seal and rebuilt/resealed the Saginaw power steering gear. Hot tip on the inline AMC/Jeep rear main seal installation: Use a Fel-Pro main seal and Fel-Pro OS34308R oil pan gasket. Fel-Pro has made the pan installation a breeze with its four plastic expansion studs and a one-piece gasket. I was able to support the new gasket and even a new Dorman oil pan (good product, too!) in place overhead, starting the bolts with no need to hold the pan. (Unheard of, right?) Tossed in a new Sealed Power iron oil pump and Melling screen for insurance at 176K miles. Good cylinder seal and great bearings, original injectors, who's to complain about an MPI/EFI engine? The Saginaw gear bench build went well, you're familiar with this chore. The steering feels as new, the Jeep rides and handles well. I've owned/restored/built up a 1950 CJ3A, 1981 CJ-5, a 1955 CJ-5 (first year) and an '87 Grand Wagoneer. Add three Toyota FJ40 builds along the way: 1971(stock), 1976 (lifted/oversized tires and a 383 stroker Chevy V-8 with SM465 4-speed, and a 1978 with a 383 and NV4500 transmission...Each had its place, the FSJ was my wife's favorite. Moses
  22. Hi Moses i have sand blasted some areas before welding the patches in with my small blaster but i am considering getting the whole tub professionally soda blasted once ive completed the rust repairs as it has 3 layers of paint on it & plenty of surface rust long term plans im not sure but ill be getting the cj6 out on the beaches this summer thats for sure & this cj5 my wife has claimed it so i guess itll be her little summer runabout the willys pick up has had its engineering inspection & im still waiting for the dept of transport to send me a letter confirming that i can proceed with the registration process it shouldnt be much longer now the engineer said they usually take 6-8 weeks so it should be here soon not sure if ill keep it though its not very comfortable on long trips so i will probably sell it to fund other projects it is an expensive hobby as im sure you are aware the fsj has been doing a few local fishing trips but i had a chat to my brother last night & it looks like it will be going in a charity rally next year across the simpson dessert that should be a great trip but its still a year away yet so i might have to give it a few shake down runs before hand to be sure its all still sound mechanically ill keep you posted as i get more info as the exact route & timing are to be confirmed cheers ian
  23. Nice work, Ian...and plenty of it! These tubs are vulnerable to rust in these areas. In the U.S., the use of brine/salt on roads has taken a tremendous toll. A NE based company makes TJ Wrangler frame repair sections for repair of the exfoliated, disintegrated box frames! Body sheet metal is somewhat easier to tackle, especially these flat panels. You're doing a great job of it. Are you blasting these tubs? The challenge is seam sealing when they get dipped. I had an FJ40 Landcruiser tub that we completely dipped, and the seam reseal was a major chore. Soda blasting is an alternative these days, and it does not surface harden the sheet metal like glass bead or other abrasive blasting media. It's difficult to work sheet metal after blasting with harder media. What's the long term plan/usage for these restored CJ Jeep 4x4s? The Willys Pickup plans? Do you still get out with the FSJ Wagoneer? Any trips on the horizon? Moses
  24. heres a few progress shots still a long way to go but at least ive made a start ive also got my wifes 1962 valiant to do at the same time so progress will be slow
  25. Gotcha...We have discussed this vehicle over time. The rust at the front kick panel(s) is a deja vu: I had an '81 CJ-5 project vehicle for OFF-ROAD Magazine and my first edition of the Jeep Owner's Bible. It came with similar rust, though not as conspicuous. The paint was exfoliated at that location...Flat panels can be cut out and replaced readily!
  26. Hi Moses this is the cj5 that i'll put the shackle reverse kit into i'll have to take some pics of the progress & post them here work has been slow but ive had other projects as your aware as well as work responsibilities
  27. Great, Ian...You'll notice a big difference on the CJ-5's handling. Much more stable with that "sprint car" wheelbase! What year CJ-5 chassis? Moses
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