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  1. Yesterday
  2. Stuart...This is just what I envisioned for your end result: a great venue to enjoy that CJ-7! The Jeep looks terrific, the terrain does, too...In answer to your questions:
  3. Last week
  4. Life has been busy and I have finally had a chance to go on a few shakedown runs. There are some BLM areas west of Phoenix that I can access via back roads without getting on the interstate. The jeep wants to move on out when I roll it down the highway with the 3:56 gears. I have had it up to 60 @ 2500 rpm. The steering box is worn and needs adjusting or rebuilding. Also with only the old lap belt I'm ready for a shoulder harness for better safety. I'm really impressed with how it pulls when accelerating from low rpm. Driving on the road requires all your attention and there is some body lean in corners. Did later models come with stabilizers? Off road I really like the option of a low first gear with the T-18 without shifting into low. Shifting the t-case to 4 low or 4 high required some strength. Maybe a twin stick conversion will help this. The trails are mostly old mining roads and decomposed granite which can make hill climbs a challenge. I pushed it up a steep climb for a test. It finally got steep enough that I ran out of traction with the open diffs and at the same time the carb reached its critical angle of attack and the engine began to buck and snort so I had to abort the climb. I was amazed at the torque the engine makes even at very low rpm. Maybe Howell fuel injection and some lockers are in my future. I'm researching the aftermarket parts to beef up the common fail points on these jeeps. For now I'm having fun getting to know this jeep after working so hard on it. I have had it out on a few long trips and made it back with no mechanical issues. Im getting some data on fuel burn which can run from high 12's to 14 mpg. I'm most excited that there are NO LEAKS. This make me very happy and I feel lucky to have this jeep to enjoy. The dog likes it too!
  5. Earlier
  6. Wow, Speed, ambitious projects for winter time at Elko. Sounds like your distributor swap will do the trick on the Toyota. Good that NAPA had a replacement/rebuilt module. The National Cowboy Poetry Gathering is on this week at your town. That certainly raises the traffic count! Glad you're there for your sister, Speed... Moses
  7. Well,I got the module swapped to a GM one-no joy. Pulled the module and went to EVERY shop in town to get it tested-no luck. Nobody is equipped to terst one. Finally found Konakis Automotive has the official tester,and my used module was toast. bought a new one at NAPA,installed it,still no spark. RE-checked my wiring,it is all correct. I've concluded my problem is either the 2 wire harness from my module to the distributor is damaged,the plug at the distributor isn't connecting or the pick up IN the distributor is smoked. I'm going to disconnect that harness at both ends and check it for damaged wire,then replace the plug with different connections and swap in the distributor from my '82 engine. I believe that'll cover all the likely culprits,and it should be a runner. That'll be a good thing-I have at least two truckloads of trash to haul. BTW-I decided the axle swap won't be an option until Spring,if then. Once I have this truck operable,I'll bring my '74 Chevy one ton flatbed in to swap a small block 400 into it,that'll take a while for a variety of reasons. (Broken finger,Flu,Taking care of my 77 year old housebound Sister with Dementia) In the meantime,I'll change the alternator on the '54 GMC and put some 100W headlights on it,and install an under-bed box below the Left Front corner of the deck,and,if I can get the materials I need,I'll build a truck crane a bit bigger than the one on my Chevy one ton,lift capacity of 1/2 ton extended,reach of maybe 12 feet extended,8 feet collapsed. Every day's a new adventure.➰ Speed
  8. Monty...Your modern gear lube is a better product than lube available when this winch was new. As for the lifespan of a Koenig PTO winch in good condition, you have a winner! Koenig's Texas base was a hint about its primary market: oil field trucks and industrial applications. This was not a recreational market, and commercial usage demanded efficiency and reliability. Hoisting equipment was another market, and Koenig winches were often seen on wreckers and tow trucks. Ramsey and Koenig competed with each other for this commercial market, and each became popular in the emerging recreational markets. Koenig had a firm market in oilfield work, mining, mineral exploration, hoisting and industrial winches. Yes, you have an "industrial strength" winch, and PTO power is the ultimate torque source with gearing—as long as the engine is not stalled while stream fording or scaling a rock wall. Here, an electric winch prevails. Moses
  9. Not sure what Koenig recommends. I used Lucus 80/90 gear oil. It turns VERY smooth, on that I'm very happy. I look at this and compared to today's winches. There's little doubt that this will outlast 98 percent of today's winches.
  10. Additional exchange with Lynn: Question from Lynn: "I am hoping this is the last time I’m bothering you about pinion angles. Thanks again for the in depth explanations...I downloaded an app to measure angles a little more accurately. I came up with 13.5° on driveshaft and 8.5° on pinion yoke. So does that work out to be a 3° shim I need? Also I believe when shims are installed on CV driveshaft the beefy end will be facing the rear of Jeep?" Lynn...Your measurements must be with the vehicle on level ground and the body's weight fully on the axles…If you measured the pinion yoke at the flange flat (with the yoke flanges pointed straight up and down), then the pinion shaft is on an 8.5-degree slope or angle. If the pinion shaft is on an 8.5 degree slope, and the driveshaft is on a 13.5-degree slope angle, the difference between the two angles is 5 degrees. You want to reduce this difference to 1.5 to 2 degrees. Rotating the axle housing and pinion shaft upward with a three degree shim set should work. The end result will be 2-degrees of U-joint tilt or angle. Most shims, by design, allow minor adjustment in either direction, but 2 degrees is fine. I run 2-degrees on my XJ's rear U-joint angle. When you are through installing the shims, with the spring U-bolts torqued evenly to specification and the Jeep on level ground with body weight on the axles, you should have a 2-degree or less rear U-joint angle or tilt. The driveshaft slope angle may decrease slightly when the pinion rotates upward, dropping the difference figure closer to 1.5 degrees. Let us know your final readings. The "shims" are wedge-shaped metal plates that fit between the axle perches and the leaf springs on your Jeep XJ Cherokee. (The TJ and newer Wranglers have link-and-coil spring suspension, and the shim fit is different.) You will be raising the vehicle safely, supporting the body/frame, allowing the springs to sag fully, and then loosening the spring U-bolts evenly. When there is enough gap between the spring centering bolt and the axle spring perch to allow inserting the wedge shim, the shim's narrow end will face forward. When both shims are in place, the tapered shims rotate the axle housing and pinion shaft upward to reduce the U-joint angle...Shims are not installed on the CV driveshaft itself; the tapered shims fit between the axle spring perches and leaf springs to rotate the axle housing and pinion shaft. This rotation changes the pinion angle. I use steel (not aluminum) shims that match the width of the leaf springs. Shims need to support the leaf springs properly. Torque the spring U-bolt nuts in cross and evenly to factory torque specification. I like to re-check the nut torque after driving the vehicle and cycling the suspension. Moses
  11. Lynn shared this photo. Here, he has only measured the driveshaft slope...Below the photo is my explanation of how to measure the driveshaft-to-pinion shaft (U-joint tilt) angle: Lynn...I looked closer at your photo and saw the string measurement. This must be your driveshaft (tube) slope with the vehicle level. The measurement you want is the angle between the driveshaft (tube) and the axle pinion shaft. If you draw a line straight out from the pinion shaft centerline and measure its relationship to the driveline slope, you have the angle you want. Put simpler, you can place your string gauge on the flat outer flange of the pinion yoke with the pinion/U-joint yoke facing straight up and down. Note: For pinion angle reference, the axle’s pinion shaft centerline is parallel to the pinion yoke’s outer flanges. The magnetic angle gauges attach to the U-joint yoke’s outer flange(s). It is important that the U-joint yoke’s flanges face straight up and down when measuring this angle. The 1.5 to 2 degrees is the angle or tilt of the rear U-joint. If your driveline slope with a string line gauge is 20 degrees, the axle’s pinion centerline angle should be 18.5 to 18 degrees. (In geometry or trigonometry, the angle between the driveline tube and pinion shaft centerline is two intersecting slope lines with a deviation of 1.5 to 2 degrees.) With the CV driveline, the axle’s pinion yoke joint angle approaches a straight line with the driveshaft tube, deviating only 1.5 to 2 degrees from straight. That tilt has the axle pinion shaft pointed slightly downward. The usual tools for measuring this angle would be a protractor gauge or a magnetic spirit/bubble level gauge. Both measure in degrees like your string gauge and plumb bob. Your approach can work if you use the gauge and plumb bob/string properly. When the axle housing is rotated correctly, the driveshaft tube will appear to run nearly straight into the pinion, the tilt being only the slight 1.5 to 2 degrees. Below is a factory/Mopar Inclinometer (7663) tool for measuring U-joint flange angles and, in this instance, the front axle caster angle. This gauge has a spirit/bubble and a tilt scale in degrees. The top of the gauge has a magnet that attaches to a U-joint yoke flange: Here is a time-honored Spicer Anglemaster gauge, the latest "Anglemaster II" version. Note that this gauge attaches on the flatly machined flange end of the U-joint yoke. This angle can be quickly compared to the slope angle of the driveshaft. The difference between the two angles is the U-joint tilt or joint angle. These angles are always measured with the vehicle at normal/curb ride height and vehicle weight on the axle(s). Do not take driveline and joint angle measurements with the axle hanging off the floor. The vehicle should be standing on level ground or with the axle(s) supported safely on jack stands or tripod stands. Driveline angles for trucks or SUVs that carry a hefty load should be measured with the full payload on the axles: For more information on an SYE conversion and the use of a CV rear driveshaft, visit: 4WD Mechanix Magazine article on an NP/NV231 transfer case SYE kit installation, click here. For details on our XJ Cherokee's 6-inch long arm lift that required an SYE and CV rear driveline, click here for the magazine article at 4WD Mechanix.
  12. Speed, I have a suggestion for a 1978-87 Toyota pickup service manual that you would find very helpful: Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual by Robert Bentley Publisher. Bentley is my book publisher, and they do the factory shop manuals for VW North America and Porsche, very professional, detailed stuff. My Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible is in the Bentley Publishers book stable, but in this case I'm referring to an earlier Bentley in-house book that was model year specific and a designated shop/repair manual. The Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual is no longer in print and would need to be found and purchased used at Amazon, eBay or from an automotive literature (used books) outlet. Here's an earlier printing (through 1984 models) at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Pickup-Truck-Service-Manual/dp/0837602521/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=Toyota+Pickup%2C+4Runner+SErvice+Manual+Robert+Bentley&qid=1577800801&s=books&sr=8-1-fkmr1 If you can find a copy of Bentley's Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual on eBay or through used book channels, it has far more detail and helpful content than Haynes or any other aftermarket book. In the "Brakes and Wheels" Chapter 8, Pages 7-10 of the 1978-87 edition, there is a section devoted to your truck's Load-Sensing Proportioning System, including useful illustrations of the parts relationships and their original shapes. Equipped with a quality shop manual (either the book I'm suggesting or an official Toyota FSM that covers your truck), your confidence would soar. Unfortunately, many shops do not follow these protocols and either do not have the right books or have functionally illiterate, "know-it-all" staff. Social media like YouTube has gone further to dumb down and trivialize automotive work. Better training standards, brake work certification tests (like the trucking industry) and pay incentives would be helpful in this country. NIASE is a step in that direction but does not train techs to work on specific vehicles, model types or unique brake devices like your Toyota load-sensing rear brake proportioning system. I have bookcases full of FSMs from the 1940s to present and general automotive trade books dating back to the 1920s. Despite 52 years of professional automotive work, I still rely upon factory-level shop procedures and protocols. Anyone who doesn't is not performing professional grade work. If you cannot find or afford a used copy of the Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual, let me know. I'll scan the four pages described from the copy setting in my bookcase and post as a PDF. My publisher will not be offended nor cite me for infringing on copyright, the book is no longer in the market. Moses
  13. I think whatever parts I get will have to be from a Ranger,since many of them were equipped with the drivetrain I want,while I OWN the only Explorer I've ever seen with a manual transmission and I've never found one that didn't have electronic Four Wheel Drive/automatic hubs. Speed
  14. I originally found the conversion on Marlin Crawler's website,seems several people have also done it and there's quite a lot of diversity on the methods and the parts used. I'd been looking for a discussion that covered some other conversions as well,the one I wanted was the Ford Blue-Grommet module,but I didn't find that one. The GM one is pretty simple-the two wires from the Distributor go to one end of the module,the terminals marked W and G. (If there's no spark,I can reverse these two wires and all should be fine.) The other two wires to the module,one of which is marked B,for Battery,goes to keyed 12V, (I'm going to use the same wire as the ignitor did,out of the OEM plug.) and will also connect to the + side of the coil,and C,for Chassis ground, would go to the - side of the coil and any other grounds I want to use. They say I can ground the Module case through one of the mounting screws,plenty of good grounds makes everything happy. I got some di-electric grease and built a heat sink/bracket from aluminum. For the mount,I screwed the module to the beam of an aluminum air compressor connecting rod with a heat sink sandwiched in,and plenty of grease in between. The rod was bolted to the inner fender,with the rod cap on the outside of the inner fender.;I've seen some people use the original Toyota coil and the ignitor bracket to simplify the mounting. So it's only four wires and a mounting plate to make it work,if you don't mind using used parts. ====================================================================================================================== On that carb,I think I'll just drive it awhile and see how it acts-I MIGHT not even have to change anything. ====================================================================================================================== This cab is the same one that got tumbled down a mountain. It wasn't too straight when they put the new windshield in it-it already had a half circle crack in it right behind where the rear view mirror would have been if it was still there. ====================================================================================================================== The proportioning valve is still there and connected-not sure of the adjustment,I don't know what the link is supposed to look like-it looks to ME like it's all pulled out of shape. It has a shallow "S" bend in it,but it must be close to where it should be or it wouldn't reach from here to there. I feel like the "mechanic" didn't adjust anything before calling it DONE. ====================================================================================================================== I have the tools,sort of a place to work (Outdoors,slanted driveway that looks like it was used to test explosives),a book (An 80's vintage Haynes repair manual-and some internet) etc. I mostly don't do a lot of the work anymore because my health has been screwing me up. Messed up shoulder,Arthritis in my hands,lower back damage,etc. All were the residuals of doing stuff I shouldn't have done,back when I was young and invincible...There's also the feeling that I don't know as much now as I did back when I knew ALL about EVERYTHING. 🤡 I wouldn't have been so upset with the half-assed brake work if I hadn't paid a premium price for it. When I have someone doing work for free,or for a six pack,I know I'll be getting pretty much what I paid for,but there's no way,by ANY stretch of the imagination,THIS would be worth $600.00! THIS was supposed to last for a pretty long while. I shoulda taken it right back and worked 'em over about it,but like I said,I was without a running vehicle and with a lot of stuff still to move,so I made a (BAD) executive decision. THEY made a BAD decision by releasing my truck without so much as test driving it across their parking lot to see if the brakes even WORKED.😠 I probably coulda OWNED their shop,but they were already closing and retiring-would it have even been worth the fight?
  15. When installing a CV or SYE rear driveline, the rear axle pinion angle is important. A Jeep XJ Cherokee owner asked me about this angle and axle shimming (changing the pinion shaft angle). Here is our exchange: XJ Cherokee Owner's Question: "Mr. Ludel...I am wondering if you have an SYE on your XJ? I had one put on with a Tom Woods driveshaft. [The Jeep] rides smoother with its 2 1/2” lift, but I did not install shims. Are shims a must with an SYE?...Lynn W." My reply: Hi, Lynn…An SYE driveshaft has a double-Cardan or CV front joint. A double-Cardan joint has self-cancelling angles. The angle at the pinion/axle end of the rear driveshaft is important, however. That angle with an SYE/CV driveshaft should be 1.5 to 2-degrees. This is measured with the vehicle on the ground or the axles weighted. If the rear joint is straight (0-degrees), there will be inadequate rotation of the needle bearings inside the U-joint. The joint will fail prematurely…Too much rear U-joint angle is not good either. So, to answer your question, you do want to shim/rotate the rear axle and pinion shaft to achieve a 1.5 to 2-degree rear U-joint angle. I use hard steel (not aluminum) shims...Moses Here are Lynn's photos...This shaft needs a rear U-joint angle adjustment: Lynn's SYE and CV driveshaft has a Double-Cardan front joint...Here, the double U-joints cancel each other's angles... Lynn's rear axle pinion joint angle needs to be corrected. This single Cardan joint should run at 1.5 to 2 degrees, set with the vehicle's weight on the axles...To correct the pinion angle, wedge shaped shims fit between the rear axle's spring perches and the leaf springs. Pinion/U-joint angle is corrected with these shims.
  16. Hi, Speed, have a safe and pleasant New Year...Best in 2020...See my comments below:
  17. The Toyota developed a NEW issue-no spark. It died on the road,suddenly,just like I turned off the ignition. Plenty of cranking power,but NO spark. After having the coil tested and found okay,popular opinion is that the ignitor is the problem. I now have the parts to convert to a GM ignition module,I just need to make an aluminum base plate to mount the module to and get some di-electric grease,and grow some warm weather to do the install and it should be a runner again. I bought a fuel pressure regulator and installed it,set to 2-1/2 psi to start with,then I went through and re-set the carb to the specs listed in the installation papers. Once I have it running again I can go through and fine-tune it a bit. Following that,my only urgent task will be figuring out where the water is getting into the cab and dripping onto the stereo,the CB and the seat on both sides. It's getting pretty annoying. Now that you mention the brake booster,it reminds me-the brakes have never felt completely right since the "Car Doctors" shop "rebuilt" them. I had to extend the push rod between the master cylinder and the booster about an inch to even HAVE brakes. The truck stops well enough,but I suspect the rear brakes aren't playing. As I stop,the brakes are quite good,but as I roll down to a stop,it feels like the front brakes grab hard enough that it feels like the axle "winds up",bouncing the truck backwards slightly. I think the rear brakes just need adjusting. I have 2 of the 3 cables needed to fix the E-brake,so I'd like to try fixing that,if I can sort out their weird cable routing. That also was supposed to be done in the brake "rebuild". Since it wasn't possible at the time for me to do without the truck,I fixed what I had to,to be able to drive it,and by the time I had alternate transportation it was too late to claim their shoddy workmanship in a Court case. Speed
  18. Let us know how this works out, Monty. What lube will you use in the unit? What did Koenig recommend?
  19. "I'M BACK" LOL Well this has been a learning experience. I ended up showing the winch to a retired mechanic. He actually worked on a couple of these ol girls in the past. He said I was over thinking, being worried about the way the thrust bearing spins and all. In our talk he said I was right that the gaskets acted as shims in getting proper pressure on the bearings. Two new T88-904A1 bearings some trial and error, 3 gaskets on one side and 2 on the other side and I feel that things will work fine when I get a chance to test it out.
  20. Monty...As a guess, the "KT88" bearing is likely a Timken T88. The "K" could be for "Koenig" parts inventory replacement purposes. Below is an illustration of the T88 Timken bearing. Does this look like a match? If this is it, the number is current, and retail price has it at $10-$15 from a variety of sources. I've added two part numbers that Timken still uses. The links are live and go to Motion Industries. If you can confirm the bearing fit (see sizes), the bearing is available from any Timken source. There is a small image below the larger one that may be helpful. Moses Timken T88W-904A3 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width Timken T88-904A1 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width
  21. Ok I found this, https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/koenig-pto-winch.624/#lg=_xfUid-6-1575495324&slide=0 . Looking at the diagram, the part numbers for the bearings are different. I have T88 bearings the diagram say KT88 bearings. Right off I'm unable to find a supplier for the KT88 bearing. Timken makes the T88 bearing. I've got to verify the size. https://cad.timken.com/keyword/thrust-tapered-roller-bearings/thrust-osciliating-tapered-roller-bearings-type-tt?keyword=t88&key=product&SchType=2&filter=1#
  22. It's a Koenig winch. I believe its a ??100 model, I added a pic of outer case
  23. Hi, Monty...What is your winch type, make and model? I'll check for a parts schematic that shows the orientation of these parts. The shown pieces appear to be in good shape! Vintage quality...Compare this to contemporary winches. Season's Best! Moses
  24. Wow, Stuart, the long and winding road! Years ago, Arizona required a simple tailpipe reading for emissions and never opened the hood. That changed, as you hint, to match California and other states where a visual inspection of emissions equipment is a mandatory part of emissions tests. Maybe there is a model year cutoff for the full inspection test, and if old enough, a vehicle reverts to the older tailpipe reading only method? Or does this have to do with your zip code? Pleased that you're on the road. This must be gratifying. The high HC/CO readings with your original carburetor could have reflected a unit with the wrong jetting. You were meticulous in your approach to rebuilding the carburetor, it should have performed to OEM standards. (The old carburetor may not have been in original form.) In any case, the El Monte shop's build must have the right jet and metering rod. Keep us posted on the performance and your driving impressions. Yes, the CJ-7 is a great improvement over the vintage Jeep CJ3B chassis, worlds apart. You have a longer wheelbase (94" versus 80") to smooth out the washboard roads plus longer springs to improve ride quality and control. I like an aftermarket front spring/shackle reverse on any of the Jeep models through the YJ Wrangler. Vehicle control and steering improve, and there's less frame impact when climbing over rocks or limbs. The front axle trails instead of being pushed forward from the anchor (rear) end of the front springs. Something to consider, not a must. Where will you be driving off-road at Arizona? You have a wealth of open country to explore! Season's Best, Moses
  25. Good morning, it's been awhile since I posted anything. Moses I've been cleaning up and checking the winch. I'm not sure it I've got the thrust bearing in correct. You can see in the last pic, there are the caps , the bearing then the gear. When I turn the shaft the ".outside" part of the bearing(next to the cap)starts to turn. The left beaning does the same but not as quick. I've also put up picks of the bearings for reference. Now my thoughts are the "out side" part of the bearing should not be turning. Did I install them backwards? The bearing against the cap, turning, that's NOT good. The bearings are in excellent shape, especially considering the oil that came out.
  26. Well its been a long and difficult road to being street legal but I finally made it. Arizona Emissions testing took 4 tries but It is running just like it rolled off the assembly line in 1977. The first thing that surprised me is the inspectors totally ignored all my OEM correct emissions gear and just marked n/a or not tested for everything including my evap canister. They only were concerned with the levels coming out of the tail pipe at idle and loaded which is a dyno run at about 35mph. Gasses tested were HC Hydrocarbons and CO Carbon Monoxide. NOX was not tested. I assume because my jeep is a non-catalyst model with air injection and EGR only. I passed HC every time with no trouble which told me at least I was getting ignition on all cylinders. CO carbon Monoxide was my problem which is the result of incomplete combustion. My limits I had to beat were 1.5 percent for loaded and 2.0 percent for idle. I failed bad the first try with 3.8 loaded and 6.0 idle. I began to worry I the standard was too high for my carburated jeep. I installed a beautifully rebuild carb with new bushings from Carburetor Exchange in El monte, CA. I also verified my EGR and air injection were working. This improved my CO numbers a little but I still failed and in fact the HC number got worse but still passed. At this point I was wondering if Howell fuel injection was in my future. Back to the books I went for more study. I read in a trade article that platinum or iridium plugs can give a slight advantage when trying to pass the CO carbon monoxide test. Out came my nice Denso copper plugs and in went a platinum set. Then I adjusted the idle mixture per my shop manual.Next I backed the timing off even more than the OEM specified 3 degrees. Acceleration is pretty bad like this but I passed idle with almost no reading at all and just missed loaded by a small fraction of a percent. Since this was still failing I took it to the professional emissions guy down the street who was able to tune the final little bit out and get her to pass. I know he bumped the advance back up because my power is back but he did not divulge his secrets. I hind sight it may have been smart to start with the Pro shop who can check his tuning with his gear and then go for a guaranteed pass. I was just happy to know that this carburated engine can meet the standard. It has been rewarding to take this engine from a basket case back to original running condition. I also avoided all the wives tale advice I got from people about pouring alcohol or moth balls in my fuel tank. I'm ready to take her out to the trail and see how she does. It sure rides better then my CJ-3b. I also found some rust free doors at F/N jeep in Colorado springs. I now need to adjust my steering gear to take the scare factor out of driving this thing.
  27. The Clark slipping out of 5th does sound like worn bearings, most likely at the nose end of the main/output shaft. This is the pilot bore bearing (not to be confused with the crankshaft/input shaft pilot bearing) that keeps the main shaft aligned. End bearings are likely worn, too. (A worn crankshaft pilot can cause jumping out of the other gears.) Bearings are not that expensive if you want to tackle this rebuild yourself. The bearing set, seals and making gaskets for a Clark would be less costly than a core/used SM465...As for noise, much if it is harmonic and inherent to spur gear transmissions.
  28. That's what I thought...I serviced a period I-H RD406 powered dump truck in the late 'sixties that had your box. It was a double-clutch, straight cut gear (non-synchromesh) Clark. These units are bulletproof but do require a savvy driver, of which there are few in this era. Yes, it would make the ultimate transmission for some applications but would weigh too much and require a divorced transfer case in a 4x4. There is no room for such a transmission and divorced transfer case on a shorter wheelbase 4x4. Doubt that's the market for an iron Clark 5-speed. Why don't you want to run the Clark? It's a somewhat rare bird in vintage Advance Design GMC trucks, the SM420 4-speed was common.
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