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  2. Note...In an older (2016) forum exchange at https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/917-ram-67l-delete-the-def-and-egr/, a late Ram/Cummins 6.7L diesel owner was curious about removing an EGR system. In that lengthy discussion, I included this reference: 'EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) is a system designed to lower the upper cylinder temperatures in an internal combustion engine. Above 2500 degrees F, the engine's combustion process produces nitrogen oxide (NOx). So, the intent of EGR is to lower combustion temperatures and cool the upper cylinders. In a gasoline engine without EGR, temper
  3. Good friend Tom H. (Tom's Jeep Shop at Michigan) sent these two photos taken at a wrecking yard. Rust is a scourge with the Midwest's salted roads, to the extent that even frames erode away...This "engineering" made the shackle rigid and eliminated any rear spring elongation or normal movement. According to the rust, the YJ Wrangler operated on the road or a farm for several years in this condition. Apparently, the goal was to keep a badly frame-damaged Jeep running. The "ride"? Imagine a buckboard!
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  5. mphilleo...Check the TPS (throttle position sensor) voltage. Disturbing the TPS can cause this kind of idle issue. (The TPS is a failure prone part; they do wear out.) Check the connections to the TPS then the voltage. If you disconnected the TPS, this could be the issue...Also, the O2 sensor may have picked up debris from the cleaning. Very clean Jeep YJ!!! Moses
  6. A big thanks to @Moses Ludel for letting me post here. I'm fairly certain they don't have adaptive ECUs (outside of capacitors anyway), but I wonder if there is an idle relearn procedure/reset on our YJs? I replaced my plugs, wires, cap and rotor with all new Mopar parts, replaced the air filter, cleaned the TB and IAC valve with the appropriate cleaner and took care not to be rough on the IAC pintle. Snugged everything back up, installed new gaskets, and checked for any loose or unseated connections, but I keep experiencing a low idle when warm. It's fine when cold, but after driving to
  7. TJ47...The misfire codes can be nebulous, the worst code is a #1 Misfire. Many malfunctions will throw this code. A faulting O2 sensor is one of those ballpark triggers. This is why the PCM and scan tools are neither fail safe nor 100% reliable. As a result, consumers read codes and piss away endless amounts of money on parts they don't need—without solving the problem. Frankly, with all the good intent, OBD-II fell way short of the troubleshooting mark. At the dealership or a deeply immersed independent shop, experience turns up ideas like let's test the O2 sensor by taking it off l
  8. Ok so update.... i did all the tests on those sensors and found them all to be in range but they were really worn out so i replaced them anyway. Thanks for leading me in that direction tho moses. I ended up doing alot of research on it and stumbled accross a discussion for an issue very similar to the one i WAS having. A guy in this conversation said something simple and i tried it and located my issue immediately! So if you read my original post i mentioned i had my OBD tester coming. Well i got it in. Played with it for a few days and got familiar with it and for the life of me ... couldnt f
  9. Hey thanks for this info by the way Moses! I would have never thought of it. Im going to break out my multimeter this week and figure this out! Much appreciated! Hope I find the smoking gun. Will keep you posted.
  10. TJ47...This sounds like a cold start circuit related problem. The cold engine needs a cold mode signal to enrich mixture. Troubleshoot accordingly. Make sure the fuel rail damper's vacuum circuit is routed properly. Check the Coolant Temperature Sensor ohms readings (cold). Check the Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor ohms readings (cold). Make sure the oxygen sensor is heating up properly when cold. Check connections. Ohms readings for sensors are available in the FSM for your TJ Jeep. If you do not have an FSM, factory service manual CDs are available at eBay—cheap. I
  11. Ok, so i only get this issue during a coldstart (sitting overnight or an hour ish). So here's what its doing, when i start the rig everything idles good, as soon as I hit the gas it revs up and then starts to stall out, i rev the gas a few more times and it bogs and does a small backfire like sound and then starts idling great again. I can drive it around for hours on end or all day and it runs tip top, no stalling, bogging, nothing, just runs perfect. I can turn it off after it warms up and back on and nothing... runs great. Wait 10min start it up.... runs great. This only happens on a coldst
  12. Gorilla...The starter fluid test is a definite clue. If the plugs are fouled, the starter fluid success could be a simple case of overcoming poor combustion. If lack of fuel, however, you might be onto a fuel supply problem. The fuel volume flow test would be helpful here. I am still focused on the CPS. You can note the bolt and CPS tab alignment before removing the sensor if there is a concern here. By all means, clean the CPS. If oily, clean the flywheel and clutch through the open sensor hole or the lower dust shield. This is not easy. The flywheel hall effect points might actu
  13. Much thanks Moses. Just to update a bit. I had some time to go over some small things the past few days. I cleaned the ECU contacts & used some die electric grease on them. Neither the connector or the ECU pins looked corroded. All looked well. I used a flashlight to see inside the holes on the plug connector side. The firewall area around the ecu was rusty, Just some surface rust so I removed the surface rust and quickly spot painted that area. Used the air hose to blow out the dust too. I swapped out the cap rotor & plug wires. I had to fix up some of the bolts that hold the coolant
  14. Yes, the spread bore base is in a league of its own! And risers can be confusing...Glad you worked out the bugs and have that 225 performing well again. Moses
  15. Just went through a month of frustration, but all ended well. Turns out standard quadrajet footprint was larger than that of a standard square bore base plaeau, when modified for a spread bore pattern. Not sure if anyone will ever try this, but just an FYI if you do. although the quadrajet was much improved, when it would get hot the gasket would leak because the quadrajet gasket has a 1/2 overhang in the front beyond the offy 4 barrel intake. I have been sucking air for a month or more, and struggling with why I could not get it it idle down! I built out the intake with some steel st
  16. What I did was took the 94 gas tank out and put my 95 gas tank in as I knew there were no problems with the 95 gas tank. I didn't take anything apart as I figured I had it so why run to the parts store for something it may not need. I still have the 95 gas tank in and hooked up. I do plan on rechecking the 94 gas tank but since it is running I figured leave the 95 hooked up for now. The check engine light does come on. I have checked for codes but only getting 12- battery disconnected, 33 A/C which is not equipped with the Jeep, and 55- End.I was surprised to see no other code
  17. See my take below, Gorilla: Reading your spark plug photo, it's difficult to tell whether this is ignition misfiring or oil consumption (not fuel) that is fouling the spark plugs. Yes, it could be ignition fouling, but do check for oil burning to rule that out...Have you run a compression check, or better yet, a cylinder leak down test? This is not typical sooty plugs from a rich mix and could be oil fouling. With a catalytic converter, you sometimes get very little blue tailpipe smoke (from oil burning), which can be deceptive. How many miles are on this engine? Does it sm
  18. Hello there, I've been having some problems with my 94 YJ 2.5L Jeep Wrangler. I bought it broke. It was a crank all day, no start. then one day over the previous winter I decided to try it again. To my surprise it started. Ive been testing things & replacing things. So far I swapped out my gas tank with a good known to work fuel pump. I took the original tank and put it on the side. I put a new fuel filter in it. I also replaced some fuses under the dash & PDC as they were blown when I bought it from the previous owner. I know there was one 10 amp in the PDC that needed repla
  19. Hahah that’s great! A young entrepreneur! Sounds like he is well on his way! Those tires are sure to keep him busy! 😃
  20. Update: Tire changer coming from within the U.S. and will be here within a week...Expect some video clips thereafter...I'm excited and see this as a sensible investment despite the front end expenditure. Our youngest (eight years old) grandson sold his grandmother on the deal. He did a count of our rolling stock tires on the property: 23 automotive/4x4 and trailer tires plus six dirt/dual sport motorcycle tires. 29 "perishable" tires will help amortize the in-house tire shop's start-up costs over time. Of course, with his reasoning ability, Grandson Camden will be rewarded. Mon
  21. Thanks for the update, BadDriver4x4! The objectivity and stark reality of your shared experience is helpful to others. Toyota vehicles are generally well built and at one time were distinctly the best vehicles on the planet for longevity and dependability. Many vintage Toyota pickups, FJ 4x4s and SUVs made it to the "300,000 Mile Club". Models worth noting: the 1979-85 4x4 pickups and the earliest 4Runners with beam front and rear axles, any of the original FJ and DJ 4x4 series trucks and SUVs with solid front and rear axles, and those derivative Lexus (Land Cruiser) badge vehicles w
  22. Thanks, Mike...The remote tire changer idea worked...surprisingly stable, some incidental flex with the big tires, but the beam remains resistant to force. Key was 0.250" wall on the 2-inch tube. The remote use was the best "takeaway". This machine is ideal for Honda Civic, Prius and motorcycle tires. The adapter for moto wheels is high quality. I'm looking forward to receiving a semi-automatic tire changer at the end of August. There's a 20-30 minute video pending around that machine, a great sequel to the sweat and wrestling of a human-power tire changer and pair of Ken-Tool tire i
  23. Hey Moses! Awesome video and a really cool tool you have there! I have spent my share of time wrestling tires! Fortunately it was when I was younger and less wise! Hahaha now I can look back and say I have paid my dues! Tires are a lot of work! It looks like you lost some serious fluids making that video! That tool should be sold with a cooler of ice cold beverages! thanks for sharing! Mike
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