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  1. Today
  2. zidodcigalah...You're welcome...The valve body to transmission fasteners may have loosened or the filter could be an issue. Easy to confirm by dropping the pan. If you want to avoid changing fresh fluid again, catch the fluid in a clean drain pan. In my early days of automatic transmission work, some OEM shop manuals recommended reusing fresher fluid by running it through 100-mesh brass or stainless steel wire cloth. I buy this cloth from MSCDirect, you should have a local supplier at Europe. 100 x 100-mesh was essentially the oil pickup screen mesh size on vintage automatic transmissions
  3. Yesterday
  4. I really appreciate all of your replies. I did remove valve body (but did not disassemble it), and this rattle in Park happened sometime after that (not sure if it happened immediately as it is much more noticeable in cold weather). As far as I know, pump was never removed. I will check filter/valve body for possible leaks. In case that it doesn't solve the problem I will probably drop the transmission again and check front bushing and front pump gear clearance. Yesterday I saw that fluid level was 1/3 inch above MAX (checked in neutral after driving 30 miles). I read somewhere that fluid
  5. zidodcigalah...First-off, the shuddering gauge may hold a valuable clue. Yes, a liquid filled gauge would provide a more stable needle, but there may be more to this. The good news is the pressures. They look okay. Better yet, the stall test does not point to a distinct converter problem like the overrunning clutch. So, we know a few things: 1) The pump is working and able to reach suitable pressure. 2) The overrunning clutch in the converter is not defective and the engine has a slightly high side but okay stall speed (should be 1700-2100 according to the FSM). There was
  6. Dielectric grease comes in handy to protect the rubber and plastic parts of the connectors too. Lubricating rubber fittings to make them more secure without fusing is another vital role that this grease plays.
  7. Last week
  8. Well, I did rear servo pressure test and stall test. This time I put jacks under both wheels and under differential case. Vehicle was running at 1600-1650 rpm in reverse, and I disconnected throttle valve cable. The results with trans fluid warmed up are following: 1. Stall test: 2100-2200 rpm. No rattling or any unusual noise. 2. Rear servo: needle bouncing between 150-160psi. When moving lever pressure keeps rising but in the end it starts to quickly bounce between 200-300psi. Occasionally it stops around 250-260psi but it is only fraction of a second. I'm not sure if this is gaug
  9. Sounds like time for the LSX swap! Do some homework on CA emissions expectations. Pleased to know you're equipped for the project, including the tuning. Go for it! Keep us posted, photos would be helpful to others. This is a time-honored vehicle for a V-8 swap, the 5.3L would be plenty if that's the engine you choose. Advance Adapters will be a great resource for the mate-up pieces. That's the core of their business, the tech line will be helpful at 1-800-350-2223. Moses
  10. I guess I find the LSX swap easier because I am familiar with it. There is just SO MUCH cross configuration within the LS platform. I was a little disappointed with the redesign of the 4.0 in the Grand Cherokee engines. There also seems to be more support for GM ecm programing than for Jeep ecms. I do have the needed fabricating equipment (MIG and TIG), as well as HP tuners for computer programing.
  11. jordan89oak...Yes, you're correct about the vehicle category for the donor engine. If the 6.0L donor was a "Class 1" (old tier system) or 1/2-ton truck emissions, that would likely be okay. If that engine is from a truck with a higher GVWR (3/4-ton let's say), that won't work. Your CJ is in the same emissions class as a 1/2-ton (1500) truck or a light SUV like the Tahoe, or a passenger car application. You can confirm the emissions tier by engine code and compare with the CA emissions program. BAR now has a good deal of information online about engine changes like this. The 5.3L from a T
  12. zidodcigalah...You're on the right track. In the FSM tests that you are using, there is a "Test 4", transmission in Reverse. This is a true test of pump output pressure. The test: "This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. Use 300 PSI Pessure Test Gauge for this test." Your 500 psi gauge is fine for the test, reasonably accurate. Using the rear servo port, follow the procedure for Test 4. You will be running the engine at 1600 rpm and in Reverse. Be very careful about your vehicle positioning. I am not comfortable with your ja
  13. Hey Moses, This was definitely a disappointing discovery, but I guess I can't be too mad about it since I initially thought I was only getting the transmission for the price that I paid for it ($250). I had already made plans to turn this into a budget 4.5L stroker, and was just about to go and get the 4.2 crank and rods machined and checked. The LS that I have sitting on the stand is a complete engine with computer and harness. I even have the DBW peddle that goes with it. I thought it would be easier to drop in a 4.0, but it looks like an LSX swap might be the best thing to do. It
  14. Wow, Jordan89oak, really sorry to see this damage. Unexpected for sure, the cause is unusual but clear! Would your complete LS V-8 be a more practical engine option at this point? If the LS is complete, you could have an emission legal engine in the end. The emission compliance process would involve a referee station in California if a visual inspection is part of the process on a vehicle of this vintage. At least for later chassis swaps with the LS V-8, California wants the donor engine to include the exhaust system and cat(s) from the donor vehicle. If you consider the LS V-8 swap
  15. Moses, thanks for this detailed guide. I finally found some time to do hydraulic test. The specs for my transmission is 54-60psi and up to 90-96psi line pressure at full throttle in position "2" and 1000 rpm. I only did this test since main suspect is pump - if I understood well this test is enough to detect failing pump. I could not find any details if this test should be performed with transmission fluid hot or cold. I put a jack underneath and removed one rear wheel, connected gauge to trans line pressure port, disconnected throttle cable, started engine and set it idle at 1000rpm with
  16. Well, I am back with an update. Unfortunately, luck is not on my side when it comes to Jeeps. I took the head off of the 4.0 that came with the AX-15, and things immediately took a turn for the worst. This engine had damage to the front of it. The fan and clutch were damaged, and the water pump shaft was loose. After removing the head, I noticed a hole in that cylinder right behind the water pump. I really thought that I could give this engine a quick refresh and drop it into the Jeep to enjoy it. I've thought about getting it sleeved, but I am not even sure if that would be possib
  17. Earlier
  18. zidodcigalah...You're welcome...It's always good to know your options and the possible parts damage. To begin, let's discuss the least expensive get by or "survival" approach, knowing that a rebuild is likely down the road. Recommendation: USE THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL WHEN ATTEMPTING THIS WORK. YOU WILL BETTER UNDERSTAND THE FUNCTIONS, SEQUENCING, DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF COMPONENTS. THE USE OF CORRECT TOOLS IS ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT THE CHAPTER ON 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REBUILDING. eBay is one source for a used factory service manual, there is usually a print copy or duplicate
  19. Moses, thank you so much for the detailed reply. I cleaned up the CPS which didn't seem to help but was an easy starting point. I tried disconnecting the engine side of the fuel filter and there was nothing except some initial dribbling of what was in the fuel filter... so I am going to start by replacing that again (even though it was barely used - maybe it sucked up some crap from the tank) and I think i'm going to drop the tank just to make sure the sock is on and the pump isn't clogged so I don't do the same thing to the next filter. I have a feeling the pump/sending unit may be clogged de
  20. Thanks a lot Moses, all of this makes perfect sense... I really can't thank you enough for helping me on this. I guess I'll have to face the inevitable Since I'm from Europe, ordering/finding spare parts is quite problematic and expensive because of high shipping costs and duties, so I will first try to determine the scope of the damage. For now I don't feel any slippage (even when the noise is present while driving). I will do hydraulic tests and check if line pressure is below spec (probably is). If pressure is low and pump is shot - do I have to replace converter too? I was think
  21. Anrique...I use a 75/25 mix of argon and CO2. That's 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide. If you're welding mild carbon steel, which is the place to start as a new weldor, this is a good balance. According to Miller: Gas selection A 75 percent argon/25 percent carbon dioxide blend (also called 75/25 or C25) works as the best all purpose shielding gas for carbon steel. It produces the least amount of spatter, best bead appearance and won't promote burn-through on thinner metals. 100 percent CO2 provides deeper penetration, but also increases spatter and the bead will be rougher
  22. Zidodcigalah...Good audio/video capture...A failing or failed anti-drainback valve may have started this entire problem. Your Park to Neutral end of noise phenomenon is likely the converter recharging when you move the manual valve in the valve body from Park to Neutral: The pump bushing gets charged with oil again. When the bushing is dry or without enough fluid pressure to stabilize the pump rotor, the pump rattles and buzzes. At this stage, the front pump is damaged. The noise sounds like a classic front pump rattle from a worn front pump bushing and the metal-to-metal grating wit
  23. Moses, thanks for your detailed and quick response. I forgot to mention that this engine was rebuilt a year ago. O2 sensor is brand new NTK. All other sensors have been tested either with OBD tool or with scope and seem to operate properly. In some cases I had spare ones that return same values. Based on part number I installed proper fuel pump. I tested for bleed down and it held pressure for more than 30 mins. I will preform the test at fuel filter. Can I simply remove fuel filter and put tee instead of it? What bothers me is that with both old and new regulator there is fuel odor in
  24. Well I finally found some time to check up on this. To be honest, inside vehicle it sounds like rattle while on this video it sounds more like pump. Here is the link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGtHNTRaNAI This is cold start, and after starting vehicle I kept it around 2000rpm. The clunk you hear occasionally is me switching from Park to Neutral - instantly as I switch to Neutral (or any other position) noise disappears. As soon as I switch back to Park it is there again. Noise seems a bit more silent after driving couple of miles. I took it for a 60 miles ride. Since
  25. I'm new to welding, so I have a question about what gasses are peoples using for MIG welding? https://www.auditpowertools.com/what-gas-is-used-for-mig-welding/ Is this stuff ok? Is there anyone recommendation?
  26. Asylium...I am guessing you want to improve the steering on a 1963 I-H Scout restomod? The OEM steering is a Ross cam-and-lever design with a long worm tube and rigid column tube, much like the vintage Jeep CJ or pickup gears. This is a high wear, inefficient steering gear design. The common replacement if you can fabricate and safely weld together a mounting kit to the frame would be a Saginaw manual recirculating ball-and-nut gear or a Saginaw rotary valve integral power steering gear if you want power steering. I use the older, slower 4-turn lock-to-lock 800-series Saginaw gears fo
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