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  3. The owner of a 1998 Jeep Wrangler had several questions about the use of a CompCams 252H grind camshaft in a Jeep 4.6L stroker inline six engine build. His engine core is a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0L...Here is our exchange. My comments are in red: Keith M.: I’ve seen some posts, including on Comp Cams’ site, that say the head on the ’98 has different size valve stems than other years and that cams that will work on other years won’t work on this one. I’m pretty confused by what seems to be conflicting and unreliable information. Moses: I’m not clear why there is so much confusion. CompCams should know parts interchangeability and sizing. 4.0L valve stems are available in both standard size and oversize for a given engine, which may account for the confusion. Parts interchangeability spans many years. Exhaust or intake valve head diameters may change while stem diameters remain common. Federal-Mogul is a well-known reman engine industry parts supplier. We’ll use F-M as a reference source: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-2527&pt=Intake%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Intake valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-4554&pt=Exhaust%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx?year=1998&make=JEEP&model=WRANGLER&cat=Engine&engbase=4.0L%20L6%20242cid&ga=Y&back=true [Overview of intake and exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=VK-216&pt=Valve%20Spring%20Retainer%20Keeper&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Valve retainer keepers] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=HT-2011&pt=Valve%20Lifter&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Lifters are the same over all inline Jeep/AMC sixes] A concern with camshaft installations would be the rocker arm ratio. See the rocker arm interchangeability in this listing. AMC/Jeep inline six rocker arms are essentially the same with the same ratio: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=R-905A&pt=Rocker%20Arm&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Pushrods for 4.0L engines fit the full range of 4.0L years. They are available in different lengths because the rocker arms are non-adjustable. I have discussed this at length in the forums and magazine; see https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1155-42l-re-build-77-cj-7-project/ and my reply comments from December 25, 2018 and forward. Read the details on fitting the right length pushrods. Here is the F-M parts listing for 4.0L pushrods in a standard (OEM baseline) length. There is selective fit application coverage to compensate for engine block and cylinder head deck height changes, head gasket thickness and so forth: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=RP-3275&pt=Push%20Rod&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Keith M.: I want to use the 252 cam you recommend in your video but I haven’t been able to find a video with specific part numbers. Some of the information I’ve seen indicates that I need to change the valve springs if I go to that cam, other places I don’t see that. I need a timing set but have new lifters so I’m trying to get a package if I can but don’t want un-needed parts. I’m also unsure of which cam works with fuel injection as I have been told this makes a difference. Moses: Sounds like you just need the 252H camshaft if your new lifter set is compatible. If the lifters are OEM replacement, ask CompCams tech if OEM lifters will work with the 252H camshaft. Typically, the camshaft kit includes the cam and lifters, but if CompCam simply uses an OEM replacement type lifter, you could save some here. The 1998 4.0L upper valve train (valves, retainers, keepers, rocker arms and such) should be readily compatible with your 252H camshaft choice. You do need to use the correct length pushrods to attain the right lifter preload as described at the forum exchange and magazine articles. If lifters are the same, you can see whether CompCams is willing to sell the camshaft by itself. They may not warrant the camshaft if you don’t use their lifters…Always use engine break-in lube additive (Lucas, CompCams, etc.) with ZDDP to assure proper seating of the lifters with the camshaft lobes. You still need a timing set from whatever source plus correct length pushrods if the OEM pushrods are not the correct length. As for the PCM compatibility, there is the issue of Coil-On-Plug engines requiring a different camshaft than the 252H. Your engine is not C-O-P, it has a distributor and earlier PCM programming. I’ve not heard of anyone getting an engine code from a 252H camshaft installed in a pre-C-O-P engine like yours. If I were to build my 4.0L 1999 XJ Cherokee distributor type engine into a stroker, I would use the 252H grind camshaft rather than use a stock OEM replacement. I have used the 252H grind with EFI truck engines as far back as a Ford 300 inline six MPI engine (1987). The 252H grind has also been tested repeatedly by Tony Hewes on pre-C-O-P EFI/MPI 4.6L stroker builds. Keith M.: This package would be fine, under specifications it says it works on years 1964-1998. But I can’t be sure that’s correct really, because of the fuel injection and possible valve stem issue: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-sk-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html If I had to replace valve springs I’d use this kit: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-k-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html In specifications it says 1964-1998, but under Installation Notes it states ‘K-Kits will only work in 1964-88 models due to different valve stem diameters” Moses: Valve springs and retainer sizes are governed by the valve stem diameter. This appears to be the reference here. Logically, you do need to match valve springs and retainers to the valve stems and cylinder head spring seats. For your purposes, you only need to use the right diameter 4.0L valves, matching springs and retainers for your cylinder head casting and model year choice. Approach the valvetrain like you’re rebuilding a stock 4.0L engine. Choose replacement parts for the cylinder head casting and block casting involved. Keith M.: And somewhere in here there’s a review for a kit where the reviewer states the kit won’t work specifically on the 1998 engine. That’s strange to me and seems incorrect- I have two heads, one is a 7120 of an earlier (1991-1995 I think) and then there’s the 0630 casting that came off my 1998. Both have 5/16 valve stem diameters by my measurement so I don’t believe there’s a difference. I’m assuming the whole problem with valve stem diameter is the earlier years are a different size so the later heads won’t work with the keepers and other valve spring parts that come in the kit. Moses: My assumption, too. We’re in accord here… Keith M.: I’m just trying to avoid getting the wrong cam and having it fitted to the bearings and then having to get another one. I don’t want to reuse the stock cam really, but I don’t know enough to say a different cam is worth it. This Jeep needs to idle and drive well on the street, I can’t have it be stumbly or rough idling as I will be selling it at some point soon. I do want to learn how to do these builds well as I restore IH Scouts- the 4.2 was an available engine that I think is much better in many ways than the IH engines and if I could find a way to build an excellent and reliable stroker with a 4.0 block and the 4.2 crank I’d do these regularly. Moses: Understood, Keith…I’m a Scout buff, too. If fuel efficiency is an aim and vehicle weight not excessive, a 4.6L build from a 1991-99 (pre-C-O-P) 4.0L block and head could make sense as an alternative to the 304 or 345 I-H V-8. I-H was wise to outsource AMC 4.2L/258 engines, they offered a high-torque design that tolerated emission controls better than competitors. Keith M: Thanks for your help Moses, I’ve done my best to sift through all the info out there and I just can’t come to the right conclusion without your advice...Respectfully, Keith M. Moses: No problem…You want to build a safe and reliable engine. My recommendation for the 252H grind has always been simple: This grind offers increased lift with moderate duration. More lift without increased duration means a “bottom-end” camshaft that actually enhances the idle, tip-in response and mid-range power. This cam is much different than the 260H grind. Since the 1980s, I have recommended the CompCams 252H for fuel efficiency, quicker torque rise (more diesel-like), superior idle and rock crawling tip-in stability. This camshaft raises idle vacuum and maintains higher manifold vacuum from idle to mid-range rpm. This is simply a trailer pulling, rock crawling, high manifold vacuum camshaft for optimal power at low speeds, midrange and to a realistic 4500-5000 rpm maximum shift point. It will make power to 5,500 rpm in a pinch. In your 1998-based pre-C-O-P PCM engine, you should experience no problems. The lift is not extreme and will not create valve spring “coil bind” with stock ratio rocker arms. (Valve springs must be new or in good condition and provide the proper spring rates at specified valve spring heights.) With a stroker crankshaft, the 252H makes even more “stump-pulling” sense. The gearing of your Jeep should target a 4500-5000 rpm maximum engine speed. Your single rail EFI/MPI, the 1998 PCM, MAP sensor and camshaft sensor will find this camshaft compatible. The 302 Ford V-8 injectors described in my articles will make sense. C-O-P engine builders should consider the newer grind from CompCams to avoid engine check light issues. The C-O-P PCM and camshaft position sensor monitors the OEM camshaft valve opening/closing events (lobe valve timing). The CompCams 252H valve opening/closing events can trigger an engine check light on a C-O-P engine with its PCM programming. A roller chain (Cloyes or similar) timing set is always an improvement, though the 252H camshaft will work with a stock/OEM replacement set as well. Your focus should be selecting the correct length pushrods and setting the valve timing to factory marks. This is optimal valve timing for the performance gains I have described…Make sure you install the distributor correctly, which will properly index the camshaft position sensor and ignition rotor in the process. There is nothing exotic about the 252H grind. I have installed this camshaft as an OEM replacement. The valve/lobe timing creates an issue with the C-O-P engines because the later PCM is looking for specific valve opening and closing events in relationship to the crankshaft. Let us know how your 4.6L build turns out and your impressions of the 252H camshaft performance... Regards, Moses
  4. Yea, Stuart! Sounds like you nailed it...This will be a great engine. Smart to use Lucas break-in oil with ZDDP. The camshaft lobes-to-lifter bases represent the highest friction point per square inch in the engine. Proper break-in will deliver many, many years of quality service! Congrats on a job well done... Moses
  5. It runs! I had the distributor setup one gear too late so it was not lined up with the plug terminal exactly. All I was getting was the warm afterglow which was causing my spitting problem. It fires right up now. Turns out indeed my accelerator pump port was also clogged. Carb spray did not clear it so I used one of the welding tip cleaning wires to clear the obstruction. It idles very smooth. I ran it at about 1600 rpm for about 20 minutes to mate the cam with the lifters. My break in oil is Rotella 15-45 and I used the Lucas break-in additive with ZDDP. It looks good after the break in run and nothing leaking out of the bottom. I have a slight exhaust leak to deal with at the manifold. It sounds like a beast. At least now I can work on fine tuning things. Thank you Moses for getting me to start thinking and looking at it closer. I'll keep you posted on my break in progress.
  6. Really nice work, Stuart...Attention to details is impressive, especially the emissions components. You should have the tune ironed out shortly, just in time for fall hunting! Reliability will be high for this 4.2L engine. The DUI ignition is a great upgrade. If you need a sounding board for any fire-up issues, I'm here...Awaiting your first impressions of the "new" CJ Jeep! Moses
  7. After doing a long and careful re-build on my 77 CJ7 4.2 engine I expected it to spring to life. So far I'm only getting spitting and coughing through the carb but it did fire once for a second which gives me hope. I'll quickly run through the vitals here: Fuel system: New gas tank and lines. I have verified that it is pumping fuel to the carb. The carb is a re-build Carter YF 1 barrel. It was dirty and needed a new accelerator pump but in good shape otherwise. I used a kit from Mikes Carbs and did it my self which was pretty straight forward. I have spent a fair amount of time messing with the carb on my CJ-3b so I was familiar with it. It does appear that fuel is making down the intake but when I pump the throttle I'm not seeing anything from the accelerator pump so its coming back off to diagnose that. Ignition: Its a DUI HEI unit, I installed it per instructions and set it up to fire the #1 cylinder at TDC. I verified it is working with my timing light. Using my remote starter switch I can see the timing mark and I'm able to run it up and down the the advance markings by rotating the distributor while I crank from 0 degress to 12 or more all it does is spit out the carb. DUI recommends 12 degrees static as a starting point for racing or off road which may be a bit much for me until I get past emissions. I currently have it at 6 but have tried the whole range. My factory settings only call for 3 degrees +/-2 @500 Rpm . I'm guessing this is due to smog regulations of the day. Anyway I've demonstrated that the ignition is working and I can set the advance up and down with no results. Valve train: I spent a lot of setting this engine up and do not anticipate valve-train problems unless the springs are tired or something is sticking. I ran through all cylinders in firing order with a cheap press on gauge and got 100 psi or more on all. I do have an aircraft style differential compression tester which I intend to use once I modify it to fit auto plug threads. I did a thorough priming of this engine and verified the lifters were pumped up and oil was making it to all the rockers. So I have a flame throwing ignition system and an anemic carb. I understand that spitting can be a symptom of a lean condition but I assumed that was for an engine that is already running. I'll report back when I trouble shoot the carb and verify my compression is good when and where its supposed to be. No back firing but lots of spitting and coughing up the carb. I have kept the air cleaner on to keep flames out of my face.
  8. I'm Calling this done. Well I guess you're never really done. I was able to bring all the emissions gear back to original condition with the exception of adding the DUI HEI distributor. This 77 jeep came standard with the EGR/Air-guard package per the sticker on the top of the grill, and no catalytic converter. I can still read the "non-catalyst" sticker on the dash. I re-built the one barrel Carter which is the low altitude type. As I understand it only the high altitude carbs and California jeeps came with a converter for this year. This engine uses a thermostatically controlled air cleaner system which diverts warm air from the manifold during cold startups. The only part I cannot find for this is the heat shroud which attaches to the exhaust manifold. I cant even find a good picture of one. Its not important now because its 110 degrees but it does get cold here on winter mornings. I had to do a little scrounging to find some of the banjo bolts for the air-pump manifold and did a little repair welding on a few of the fittings. I'm going to start a new thread now to get it running. I expected this engine to spring to life and its not exactly springing yet.
  9. I got a shifter from a friend,but still need the pivot bolt. I have a ball valve handle that almost fits the transfer case,I think with a little careful filing I can make it fit. Then all I need to do is cut it down to the right length,drill a hole for the shift rod end to go into and engineer an adjuster of some sort for the rod,in case the length isn't exactly right. (I suspect this shifter is off a full size Ford truck,so I don't know if it mounts in the same place on the transmission.) I ALSO need to find out what size the threads are for the pivot bolt,I think I'll have to make one to get the right shape. I'll STILL need a set of locking hubs. I was told the ABS and Cruise Control are somehow linked to each other on the Explorer (Through the ECM??) so,if the ABS fails to work,it's likely the Cruise won't work either. Sounds weird to me,but I've seen weirder things designed into vehicles. I'm hoping to avoid the wrecking yards,since the closest one to me is a 100 mile round trip. Speed
  10. Sounds like a plan...Getting your ducks in a row. Researching the legal constraints.
  11. Makes sense...Smoke test is easier than using a vacuum pump. You can pinpoint the leak location visually.
  12. Donor vehicles are a crapshoot. Ideally, you'll find a wrecking yard with the vehicle you need. Timing seems to dictate success with finding these parts.
  13. I'm adding that 10 psi residual valve to my shopping list. Looking back,with all the gearing this truck already has,I guess it doesn't matter how low first gear is,so that makes the transmission search a lot easier. I'd STILL like to find the transmission mounted E-brake though,but NOT to use on the main box. I just want to use the lever and ratchet assembly,and I'll build a rod long enough to reach from the stock E-brake lever to the brake on the back of the Brownie,to replace the cable operated "on or off" lever in the cab. I'm starting to think,AGAIN,about working this truck;Scrap metal is so low here it doesn't even pay enough to buy the gas it takes to haul a car to the scrap yard in Osino,so I'm looking into maybe hauling 3 or 4 cars at a time up to Idaho Falls,to the salvage plant there-IF the price is high enough to be worth the trip. If I'm getting good info,as long as I'm not hauling FOR someone,I'm just transporting my OWN metal,for MYSELF,so the DOT shouldn't bother me,as long as I don't go over the 26,000 weight limit or overload my truck's safe load limit. (According to my figures I'd have a very generous 18,000 before I'm anywhere close to 26,000.) I know I'd probably eventually end up having to scale it for those reasons,and I expect they'd be doing safety inspections,just because of the age of the truck. I think I can go North to Mountain Home,cross I-84 and there's a side road up to Idaho Falls that doesn't have a scale house,but I need to ride the bike up there and verify my information. Speed
  14. Well,changing the controls didn't make any difference on the Cruise Control,so the next move is going to the Shop and using the "Smoke Machine" to try to track down vacuum leaks. Not really sure what else it could be,and the repair manuals studiously avoid mentioning the diagnostics or repair of ANY of the accessories. This is the FIRST truck with Cruise I've ever owned that DIDN'T work. Speed
  15. I think I'll be looking at a trip to Pick-N-Pull for seats next time they have a Half Price Day. Speed
  16. Hey,I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row to convert my '93 Exploder to a manual-shifted Transfer Case and still need a few parts. I need the shifter,complete with the pivot bolt and the tab to attach the shifting rod to the shifting fork in the T/C,and a set of locking hubs,with the related wheel bearing nuts,jam-nuts and springs,etc. Stock ones are fine,I'm not that rough on drivetrain. If anyone has spares they won't need,let me know what you want for them and I'll give it a go. BTW-I'm told the shifter from a B-II or Ranger with a manual T/C is a bolt-in,but since I don't have one of THOSE to spare EITHER,I guess I won't know,unless YOU can clue me in. While I have it apart for this,I'll be replacing the ENTIRE clutch,including hydraulics,since I already have everything for it. Not sure if I can get this done before next Spring,as I also have a Toyota truck I need to swap both axles and all the springs from my "rolling wreck" into,as well as installing a new clutch,which I can't do until I replace the engine and clutch on mt Chevy one ton truck,so I'll have something to haul/tow with. (I have a feeling this Toyota will become a much more extensive project than I wanted it to be. Anyway,any help,knowledge or advice is appreciated. Thanks!! Speed
  17. Ian, I sensed there is a professional side to Graham Hill. He's been in front of the camera quite a bit and shows it. Nice solo job with the YouTube coverage of the Holland Track. I'll make a point of checking out the Australian 4WD Action programming... "Harry" the FSJ has a job cut out! Your outdoor travels are remote and require a vehicle in top shape—plus lots of planning and preparedness...The Simpson Desert sounds like a helluva run! Moses
  18. Hi Moses Sorry for the slow reply but ive been working away im glad you enjoyed his video this ausolo series is just what he does when hes not away working with australian 4wd action he is 1 of the presenters on that show where he is sponsored by isuzu & drives a d-max they tackle some pretty tough terrain at times they are also on youtube just look up 4wd action there are quite a few videos up loaded & quite amusing to Ive met Graham a couple of times now & hes as friendly & jovial in person as he is on film probably even funnier the FSJ aka Harry will be getting a good going over during the next year as ive been offered the opportunity to do a trip through the simpson desert in about 12 months so ill have so same my pennies & make sure Harry is in tip top shape mechanically & electrically so im really hoping it will all come together for me cheers ian
  19. I installed TJ Wrangler Bestop seats in the XJ Cherokee, and they work great. However, they crowd the console and tunnel like you hint. I had to do a lot of work with the sub-frames, including fabrication of "adapter" mounting brackets to allow use of the OEM Jeep floor mounts and slide adjusters. It was ultimately a "bolt-in" after fabricating the adapters, which required welding and use of my Harbor Freight bandsaw. Realistically, lots of work but worth ditching the stock, flimsy Cherokee seats. Explore the later Toyota pickups and Toyota passenger cars. See if you can devise a suitable factory parts swap. It's always easier than aftermarket unless a model specific seat package is available for your year/model Toyota pickup. Then there's the option of rebuilding your original seat frames and having the upholstery and padding upgraded. Moses
  20. Hi, Speed...The 4.0L will swap with a major amount of wiring work, some even suggesting a dashboard change. The Explorer engine and ECM harness, a degree in electrical engineering and lots of time on your hands might see this through to completion. Your carbureted '84 Bronco II chassis raises the bar on the wiring dilemma, even for a 2.9L EFI engine swap. Here's a useful exchange about the swap options and chores. Some comments seem more valid than others: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1004706-85-bronco-ii-engine-swap-what-are-my-opitions.html Would I do it? I'd likely go with a 302 V-8 and aftermarket plug-and-play FoMoCo Motorsports, Painless or street rod wiring harness. The 4.0L V-6 is considerable gain, but a 302 would be substantially better. Improved radiator cooling and other chores, like exhaust modifications and engine mounts, would run up the tab. I have toyed with the Ford 302 H.O. pushrod MPI V-8 as a potential swap into our XJ Cherokee. It's a lot of work and commitment... Moses
  21. Just out of curiosity,how much of a bag of snakes is it to swap a '93 Explorer 4.0 into an '84 Bronco II? Happens I have a '93 parts truck with all the electrics and a good 4.0 now....Only thing is that my '84 is a 5 speed,which I want to keep,but the 4.0 is an automatic. Speed
  22. I decided my best move is to swap my '81 Yota axles over to the '82,swap the P/S set up over,and pull the engine,Transmission and T/C and whatever else could be used from the '81 and scrap the rest. I REALLY don't need ANOTHER truck,and this one (the '81) needs too much work to save. I'll get the '81 up on stands under the frame,pull the wheels off and borrow a set of those wheel dollies,pull the front and rear axles and springs complete and wheel them over under the other truck and jack them up into place. I bought new urethane bushings to use under the other truck,but will have to buy new bolts and lock nuts for the springs since they weren't included in the sets. I MIGHT invest in shocks for it while I'm at it. In the meantime,I installed the new bracket and 105@ 10si alternator on the '82,and have some 100W headlights for it that I won't install until the truck is functional. The '82's front fenders are pretty whanged up on the front edges,so I'm looking at cutting the bottom foot off the front of each one. I'll also swap as much of the brake system over as I can,since it's all new on the '81. I'll buy a set of stock mirrors for the '82,that'll only cost around $60.00. I'll ALSO want an electric fuel pump for it,I might have one in the garage somewhere. I MIGHT consider a better set of seats,since these are hammered and the frames are pretty flimsy. What's a good fit in the Yota pick up? Not a lot of room in those things. If I can find an A/C compressor and bracket for a 22R motor I'll set it up with on-board air. One more thing I'm considering is using the gas tank from the '81 as a second tank for the '82. I think I can mount it on the left side similar to the stock location,and just put the filler tube into the truck bed. I figure that'll give it about 600 miles range. I'd put a manual selector valve in the lines and wire both senders through a "left-off-right" toggle switch My friend Ben says he'd build me a set of bumpers,a grille guard and a hitch for it,with a suitable degree of overkill. I might put a winch on it,or just a spotter hitch,which I can then plug my 5K winch into at either end of the truck. Speed
  23. Okay,got all four ball joints and the tie rod ends done,got it aligned (twice),and apparently the lower axle ends are slightly bent,so the alignment is maxed out even with the 2 degree bushings. Apparently the previous owner had bent them playing "Dukes Of Hazard" with the truck. The Ford dealer has a place in Kentucky that straightens them but with the shipping,tear-down and reassembly of the front end,ANOTHER alignment and the cost of the repair I'm figuring it'd be cheaper to just swap in the front end from the parts truck,replace the ball joints AGAIN and get ANOTHER alignment. A job for another life,I think. I drove it to SLC and back a couple of days ago to bring back a friend from his Cancer treatment. I averaged about 19.4 mpg,mostly due to a lot of speeding up and slowing down. The intermittent power window's been working fine for almost 2 weeks. (Hope I didn't jinx it.) Had a little go-round with the ABS-it was acting up and the shop replaced a module,which fixed it. Then,in SLC,a guy cut me off and I had to do a sudden stop. Unfortunately,it happened just as I got the right side wheels on a steel plate covering a hole in the road,and one front tire slid more than the other,and*triggered the ABS light again. Now it stays off sometimes,then goes on for no reason. Sometimes shutting the truck off for about 10 seconds will clear it,sometimes it'll clear for a block or two then light again,sometimes it just won't clear at all. I don't think I'll sweat it for now-the brakes still work fine. One thing I know I want fixed is he cruise control-I really need it if I want to improve my gas mileage. Speed
  24. Ian, I took the time to play through Graham Cahill's video—twice...This is an incredible work, not to mention a great historical account of the Holland Track. Cahill has it down. I do a lot of video, and his one-man-show videography, narrative and post-production editing are first rate. He uses minimal tools: a light digital/video camera, an inexpensive drone and a selfie stick! His sets are really well done, the meals, campfire, his rabbit cookout, the steak, watering holes, the granite, on and on. Thanks much for sharing this, the aerials give much more perspective to the vastness of that country...Does Cahill do this strictly as an avocational/recreational thing? Is he producing videos for sale or rental? He really should be...The rig is purpose built, he's got the whole package. So, now I get it. When you do the Holland Track, you're on for the ride. Glad your FSJ is in good condition and well equipped. One motorcyclist and a 4x4 each 11 days make for awfully light traffic! Wow, what a great venue... Moses
  25. Hi Moses I thought i would add this link to this thread as this guy is well known aussie off roader & he has captured the holland track (which i did a while back )thought you might enjoy it cheers ian
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