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  1. Today
  2. I have a 1990 YJ 2.5l TBI that has had a high idle issue for a while but it has recently got worse. Awhile back, it would start and idle around 1000, then kick up to 1600 about when it reached operating temperature. This was tolerable, but now it pretty much immediately goes to 2000 after start, hot or cold. The idle speed control or idle air control, not sure which is correct, but the little screw that is supposed to keep the throttle plate open a little bit to let more air in on start up isn't even touching the plate, and I'm pretty sure is broken considering it doesn't ever move, so I know
  3. Stacey...I sensed that this would be the SKF reply. That's why I posed the questions I did. The sleeve is too thin for load bearing at this level. I searched around to see what alternatives you have here. Some, mostly in agricultural equipment or rough machinery environments, "knurl" the inside of a loose bore with a punch and hammer. This raises surrounding metal and creates a bumpy surface around the inside of the bore. It will decrease the bore diameter at the raised areas, and the initial fit of the race would be tight. They supplement this approach by applying Loctite retainer
  4. LPMTech...I searched a bit, there is a flood of off-shore bearings, perhaps your current hydraulic bearing is one of them? I would go with "National®" brand. This is BCA, a quality bearing company. I see National® clutch release bearings advertised at Amazon, some turn up at eBay, and O'Reilly's carries National® brand. Approach this hydraulic system like you would a brake system. Extreme cleanliness and the recommended type brake fluid (only) will do the trick. Moses
  5. Yesterday
  6. I'd be curious to see if it runs! My first car was a 1970 International Scout, gold with a white top. I loved that SUV💕
  7. Thanks Moses! It is a cute lil thing. I actually did some donuts with it in a deep snow parking lot...LOL...the 4x4 is awesome in snow. It's got the manual hubs and the 4x4 stick on the floor (I'm in MinneSNOWta).
  8. Do you have a recommended manufacturer of these cylinders? I guess I am going to pull the transmission again.... So I want a good one.
  9. Just received my answer from SKF about using the speedie sleeve---short and blunt--no not recommended, so I guess thats off the table. Loctite retaining compound probably would work, I just can't wrap my head around glueing steel to steel. What do you think about steel shim stock loctite in place? I just feel like I need something to take up the slight play and maybe have some support. The only 3 right options would be to get a new or used housing that isn't wore, have someone cut and replace the housing end or get a over sized bearing cup and have it cut down to my size, all are either ex
  10. Last week
  11. Really nice Geo Tracker, sassylady...Wouldn't surprise me if you decide to keep such an exceptional example. The hardtop, as Knyte suggests, is prized. Moses
  12. Thank you It has no engine leaks, never has, no lights, new clutch and battery.
  13. Gamble...SSBC has conversion kits that work with a "one-piece axle shaft". I would contact SSBC to get clarification on which one-piece axle shaft design they mean. Are they referring to Moser or TEN Factory? A Warn rear full-floater conversion? Which "one-piece axle shaft" design? One-piece rear axle shafts would be essential for a disc brake conversion. Factory two-piece shaft/flanges would not work under the heavier braking. Also ask SSBC whether your factory hydraulic proportioning valve will work with the conversion. The major benefit of the SSBC kit is a built-in E-brake. Yo
  14. My sons are 6'2, 6'4, and 6'5....LOL Their knees practically hit, although the head height is good. I have quite the sentimental value for the Tracker, and it costs me almost nothing to keep, so that's why I don't have an ad out on it yet.
  15. That's funny! I'm 6' and I can fit better in these things than in most vehicles. I've sat in $70k Lexus SUVs and had to tilt my head to the side. I know that's now what you meant, but the ergonomics are quite good in these things. I hope you find it a good home!
  16. Thanks. I have 3 teenage boys, but none of them are interested in it since it doesn't have blue tooth and such...LOL. Only 1 learned to drive stick on it, but it was too small for them.
  17. Believe it or not, that factory hardtop & cover is a little less than 1/3 the value of the entire vehicle! The hardtop hardware is VERY sought after. Sounds like it's been kept in very good condition. $5k sounds about right based on your description.
  18. Hi there, I'm considering selling my 1994, red, w/removable black hardtop, 2 door 4x4 Tracker. I am the original owner, and it has only been driven by my elderly parents and me since 1994 (5spd manual). The speedometer stopped at 159K, but I have had it garaged since 3/2018 and have only put 2 tanks of gas in since then. I had it professionally appraised in 03/2018 at $5K for insurance reasons( have appraisal), but since the appraisal, the clear coat peeled off my hood (NO RUST), so I am guessing it is not worth as much. The heat, a/c, cruise control ( I had the dealer pu
  19. LPMTech...Either your clutch hydraulic release system has air in it or the release bearing's internal hydraulic seal is leaking and bypassing fluid. Since the problem only occurs sometimes, air in the system is doubtful. There are times when the system performs flawlessly. The bearing is not leaking externally, so the external seal is holding. (Otherwise, you would see fluid beneath the vehicle.) What I am describing is an internal hydraulic leak within the release bearing: Fluid is bypassing the piston seal, permitting the pedal to drop. When you "pump the pedal", you are rapidly
  20. I have a 85 scrambler which is in need of brake upgrade. I getting it back on the road after years of relaxation. I’m looking to add new disc setup to all 4 tires. booster and master double Plus all nee SS lines!! any suggestions on brands and or kits? jason
  21. I have an 89 Jeep YJ with the 2.5 ltr and the AX15 5 speed transmission. I have recently replaced the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, Clutch hydraulic bearing/cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. The problem I am having is the clutch releases perfectly at time, and at others not at all. I have bled the system and even taken it to a shop and had it bled. I have even had the shop replace the clutch master cylinder again, thinking the first new one was bad. When the clutch sticks, you can pump the pedal several times and it will release. There are no leaks and no fluid loss. I am start
  22. Sounds like 0.008"-0.009" or so, Stacey. The SKF sleeve at 0.011" thickness is actually a 0.022" reduction in the bore size. That's more than an "interference fit". You would not be able to get the race/cup into the sleeve. I'm curious what SKF has to share and whether their SPEEDI-SLEEVE can handle this kind of use. Keep us posted...
  23. Also, the sleeve slides in snug up to the first ridge in housing, may be too tight once installed on cup. I contacted SKF about using sleeve for this purpose, but haven't heard back yet. I'll let ya'll know what they say and what I decide to do. Not sure how accurate my measurements are but should be pretty close. Thanks: Stacey
  24. The 2 aluminum thickness is .006" or .16mm. The Skf sleeve is .011" or .30mm. Looks like the passenger side housing opening is 65.03mm and the drivers side housing opening is 65.23mm. These measurements are made with a cheap harbor freight digital caliper. I also used a .006 feeler guage that slides in pretty easy, the next size which I believe was .010 was a little too thick.vv
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