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  1. Today
  2. My tracker will bust right off in the morning, or anytime when it has sat awhile. But when warm it cranks for 20-30 seconds before it starts, to me, it acts like no gas at first. It always does start, it just takes a while. We didnt used to think about it when a car cranked for 30 seconds before it started, now they crank really quick! Appreciate any help from you old hands! I just got this thing as a project and I already love it!
  3. Last week
  4. I've read that drilling out the upper mounting hole will get my cps a hair closer to the flex plate BUT that is just close enough to improve the voltage to a much more respectable reading. My problem is, I haven't read anything that clarifies which hole. Am I drilling the mount hole on the bell housing or the one on the cps bracket. And this is my first post so I'll let y'all get the flaming out of your systems now with a second question. What in the wide wide world of sports are us early 2.5 (1987) TBI remix guys supposed to do when we need a MAT (NOT MAP) Sensor? NLA
  5. DattMtn...All testing can be done without removing the cylinder head...Key off, coil wire pulled, rotate the crankshaft to bring #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Be certain that the rocker arms are in their correct positions; the rocker tips should center over their valve stems. Check the valve rockers for play. If you loosen the rocker bolts, the plungers in the lifters will extend to full height. Wiggle the pushrod to confirm whether there is play or clearance; this is easier if you rotate the pushrod back and forth gently with your fingers, lifting up and down to confirm clearance. Very slowly, rotate the rocker bolt down until the play just disappears. Do not go further or you will be compressing the lifter plunger. If you go too far, back off the bolt until the plunger has extended to full height again. Each lifter has an internal spring to expand the plunger height until the cup is against the retainer clip (plunger fully extended). If you have a dial indicator, place it at the top of the rocker arm, directly over the pushrod. Turn the rocker bolt down very slowly, watching the dial indicator to confirm how far down the lifter plunger drops. (This is the lifter preload.) Full preload takes place when the rocker bolt bottoms snugly. Do this at each cylinder with its piston at TDC, both valves closed and the camshaft lobes on their heels. See whether each lifter has normal lifter preload. If they each do, you should have no lifter noise. If you do have noise, either the lifters are not getting enough oil, or they are bleeding down. A new set of lifters is seldom defective and bleeding down. Be sure that the new camshaft lobes look normal and not worn on their peaks. To confirm that the lifters get oil, after you tighten each rocker, you should feel distinct pressure/resistance in the lifter. (Apply heavy thumb pressure at the rocker's pushrod end.) Resistance is normal and means that oil is in the plunger and the lifter check valve works properly. Do not attempt to charge the lubrication system or fill lifters with oil when the pushrods and rocker arms are loose. If the lifter's plunger drops considerably when you apply pressure above the pushrod, the lifter likely has no oil in it or the lifter check valve is defective. If oiling is okay and the cam lobes are okay, there could be an issue with the pushrod lengths. You can measure lifter cup to rocker arm lengths with a CompCams pushrod gauge. Allow for desired preload. (Determine the correct length pushrod for zero clearance plus the desired preload.) Compare this length to the current pushrod's length. Do this with each lifter on the heel of its cam lobe. All this can be done with the cylinder head still in place. See the discussion on the CompCams tool and setting proper clearance. Read from the 12-23-2018 exchange downward... Moses
  6. Posted Friday at 10:33 AM I have recently gotten my engine back together with a new cam (Comp Cams kit: K68-201-4), with new intake and exhaust valves that I have lapped into place. No milling no decking was done. There were issues with the lifters that I received, a full tenth under on the diameter. I figured the lifters shouldn't be sloppy in their bores! Finally got the correct diameter lifters 0.904" (Sealed Power: HT-2011) in it and put the rest of the motor back together. After doing the break in run of 30min at 2K rippums with high zinc purple break in oil, I have noticed that there is a lot of clatter in the top end and upon further inspection there is slop in some of the rocker arms. Is there a way that I would be able to test these new lifters without pulling the head again? What would be the cause of roughly 4 rockers to have slop? If I wiped the cam that would typically be on the nose of the cam not on the heel where I am seeing the closed valve rocker slop. It's interesting that the if it's the pushrod length, while it is okay on some of the cylinders. I am fairly certain I am making good oil pressure as I ran it with the valve cover off for a second and it sprayed oil hard all over the engine bay (factory oil gauge shows pressure). I would very much appreciate any input you have and set me on the right path.
  7. Earlier
  8. Monty...By allowing the controlled cool-down, you had the best shot at stabilizing/restoring the grain structure and makeup of the metal. The biggest mistake some do with metal like this is cooling it abruptly with cold water. That freezes the heated metal in its expanded state while the grain structure is modified. Even though your approach is short of re-heat treating, there would be some softening of the overall tensile in the heated area due to possible annealing or normalizing. Like you say, though, the road and trails are the test. You'll most likely be fine and never have an issue here, especially with the reinforcement and boxing of the C-rails. These frames soften and metal fatigue naturally from flexing over time, yet they continue to offer service...You did a sensible approach for heat bending. Some argue that cold frame straightening is better. However, once metal stretches from bending it's not granularly/structurally the same, anyway. You avoided the risk of further metal stress from cold bending. I would pat yourself on the back for being thoughtful and doing your homework. Boxing the frame rails with stitch welds is always a good practice. This allows necessary frame flex. You made the effort to do the right thing. Now enjoy that Jeep and get some miles on it to test your handiwork! Moses
  9. Keeping / hurting the frame tensile strength was a HUGH concern of mine. After ALOT of reading and then talking to a couple of welders, I preheated the frame to 600-700 degrees, welded then blanket wrapped the weld and let cool. Doing this process took some time but I was told this was the best way to weld on tempered steel/frames. I doubt I'll be doing any serious wheeling, just some light trails. For the most part she'll be a pavement Queen. Thank you for the info/ reminder on the reverse shackles.
  10. Looks straight now, Monty. Only remaining question is frame tensile strength after heating. These frames are fairly flexible in stock form, and you reinforced/boxed the forward rails nicely. This likely nailed it...If this works, great! If you need to revisit the issue in the future, consider a shackle reversal approach. This places the anchors at the front end of the leaf springs and shackles at the rear of the front springs. The aftermarket kits or home approaches emulate the M38A1 military design. My '55 CJ-5 (first year CJ-5) was fortunate enough to have an M38A1 military type frame from the factory. This was the approach in '55 and some '56 CJs until your frame layout became standard for the CJ-5 and CJ-6 models. Some early CJ-5/CJ-6 builds had a factory two-piece windshield from the M38A1. The shackle reverse allows the front springs to trail from the front anchors. With anchors at the rear of the springs (your chassis), the frame is pushing the front axle forward with the springs. Off-pavement, the shackle reverse enables the axle to rise and set easier when tires press against a rock wall or other immovable objects. With the stock layout (your CJ's design), when the front tires press against an obstacle, the front springs arch and wrap up until enough energy "bounces" the axle upward. On the highway, the shackle reverse makes a considerable difference in steering control and handling. My Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers) illustrates the 1955 CJ-5's frame design. My Jeep® Owner's Bible and Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 illustrate aftermarket shackle reverse kits. There are several aftermarket sources for CJ shackle reverse kits. Just some things to consider...Enjoy that Jeep!!! Moses
  11. This quite the undertaking! The front rt frame was bent. Sooo after some studying. I did some heating and welding I ended up boxing the the front part of the the frame. Actually I did both sides. Time will tell. I got some tempered/hardened metal from a car hauler that was being cut up.
  12. Stuart...This is just what I envisioned for your end result: a great venue to enjoy that CJ-7! The Jeep looks terrific, the terrain does, too...In answer to your questions:
  13. Life has been busy and I have finally had a chance to go on a few shakedown runs. There are some BLM areas west of Phoenix that I can access via back roads without getting on the interstate. The jeep wants to move on out when I roll it down the highway with the 3:56 gears. I have had it up to 60 @ 2500 rpm. The steering box is worn and needs adjusting or rebuilding. Also with only the old lap belt I'm ready for a shoulder harness for better safety. I'm really impressed with how it pulls when accelerating from low rpm. Driving on the road requires all your attention and there is some body lean in corners. Did later models come with stabilizers? Off road I really like the option of a low first gear with the T-18 without shifting into low. Shifting the t-case to 4 low or 4 high required some strength. Maybe a twin stick conversion will help this. The trails are mostly old mining roads and decomposed granite which can make hill climbs a challenge. I pushed it up a steep climb for a test. It finally got steep enough that I ran out of traction with the open diffs and at the same time the carb reached its critical angle of attack and the engine began to buck and snort so I had to abort the climb. I was amazed at the torque the engine makes even at very low rpm. Maybe Howell fuel injection and some lockers are in my future. I'm researching the aftermarket parts to beef up the common fail points on these jeeps. For now I'm having fun getting to know this jeep after working so hard on it. I have had it out on a few long trips and made it back with no mechanical issues. Im getting some data on fuel burn which can run from high 12's to 14 mpg. I'm most excited that there are NO LEAKS. This make me very happy and I feel lucky to have this jeep to enjoy. The dog likes it too!
  14. Wow, Speed, ambitious projects for winter time at Elko. Sounds like your distributor swap will do the trick on the Toyota. Good that NAPA had a replacement/rebuilt module. The National Cowboy Poetry Gathering is on this week at your town. That certainly raises the traffic count! Glad you're there for your sister, Speed... Moses
  15. Well,I got the module swapped to a GM one-no joy. Pulled the module and went to EVERY shop in town to get it tested-no luck. Nobody is equipped to terst one. Finally found Konakis Automotive has the official tester,and my used module was toast. bought a new one at NAPA,installed it,still no spark. RE-checked my wiring,it is all correct. I've concluded my problem is either the 2 wire harness from my module to the distributor is damaged,the plug at the distributor isn't connecting or the pick up IN the distributor is smoked. I'm going to disconnect that harness at both ends and check it for damaged wire,then replace the plug with different connections and swap in the distributor from my '82 engine. I believe that'll cover all the likely culprits,and it should be a runner. That'll be a good thing-I have at least two truckloads of trash to haul. BTW-I decided the axle swap won't be an option until Spring,if then. Once I have this truck operable,I'll bring my '74 Chevy one ton flatbed in to swap a small block 400 into it,that'll take a while for a variety of reasons. (Broken finger,Flu,Taking care of my 77 year old housebound Sister with Dementia) In the meantime,I'll change the alternator on the '54 GMC and put some 100W headlights on it,and install an under-bed box below the Left Front corner of the deck,and,if I can get the materials I need,I'll build a truck crane a bit bigger than the one on my Chevy one ton,lift capacity of 1/2 ton extended,reach of maybe 12 feet extended,8 feet collapsed. Every day's a new adventure.➰ Speed
  16. Monty...Your modern gear lube is a better product than lube available when this winch was new. As for the lifespan of a Koenig PTO winch in good condition, you have a winner! Koenig's Texas base was a hint about its primary market: oil field trucks and industrial applications. This was not a recreational market, and commercial usage demanded efficiency and reliability. Hoisting equipment was another market, and Koenig winches were often seen on wreckers and tow trucks. Ramsey and Koenig competed with each other for this commercial market, and each became popular in the emerging recreational markets. Koenig had a firm market in oilfield work, mining, mineral exploration, hoisting and industrial winches. Yes, you have an "industrial strength" winch, and PTO power is the ultimate torque source with gearing—as long as the engine is not stalled while stream fording or scaling a rock wall. Here, an electric winch prevails. Moses
  17. Not sure what Koenig recommends. I used Lucus 80/90 gear oil. It turns VERY smooth, on that I'm very happy. I look at this and compared to today's winches. There's little doubt that this will outlast 98 percent of today's winches.
  18. Additional exchange with Lynn: Question from Lynn: "I am hoping this is the last time I’m bothering you about pinion angles. Thanks again for the in depth explanations...I downloaded an app to measure angles a little more accurately. I came up with 13.5° on driveshaft and 8.5° on pinion yoke. So does that work out to be a 3° shim I need? Also I believe when shims are installed on CV driveshaft the beefy end will be facing the rear of Jeep?" Lynn...Your measurements must be with the vehicle on level ground and the body's weight fully on the axles…If you measured the pinion yoke at the flange flat (with the yoke flanges pointed straight up and down), then the pinion shaft is on an 8.5-degree slope or angle. If the pinion shaft is on an 8.5 degree slope, and the driveshaft is on a 13.5-degree slope angle, the difference between the two angles is 5 degrees. You want to reduce this difference to 1.5 to 2 degrees. Rotating the axle housing and pinion shaft upward with a three degree shim set should work. The end result will be 2-degrees of U-joint tilt or angle. Most shims, by design, allow minor adjustment in either direction, but 2 degrees is fine. I run 2-degrees on my XJ's rear U-joint angle. When you are through installing the shims, with the spring U-bolts torqued evenly to specification and the Jeep on level ground with body weight on the axles, you should have a 2-degree or less rear U-joint angle or tilt. The driveshaft slope angle may decrease slightly when the pinion rotates upward, dropping the difference figure closer to 1.5 degrees. Let us know your final readings. The "shims" are wedge-shaped metal plates that fit between the axle perches and the leaf springs on your Jeep XJ Cherokee. (The TJ and newer Wranglers have link-and-coil spring suspension, and the shim fit is different.) You will be raising the vehicle safely, supporting the body/frame, allowing the springs to sag fully, and then loosening the spring U-bolts evenly. When there is enough gap between the spring centering bolt and the axle spring perch to allow inserting the wedge shim, the shim's narrow end will face forward. When both shims are in place, the tapered shims rotate the axle housing and pinion shaft upward to reduce the U-joint angle...Shims are not installed on the CV driveshaft itself; the tapered shims fit between the axle spring perches and leaf springs to rotate the axle housing and pinion shaft. This rotation changes the pinion angle. I use steel (not aluminum) shims that match the width of the leaf springs. Shims need to support the leaf springs properly. Torque the spring U-bolt nuts in cross and evenly to factory torque specification. I like to re-check the nut torque after driving the vehicle and cycling the suspension. Moses
  19. Lynn shared this photo. Here, he has only measured the driveshaft slope...Below the photo is my explanation of how to measure the driveshaft-to-pinion shaft (U-joint tilt) angle: Lynn...I looked closer at your photo and saw the string measurement. This must be your driveshaft (tube) slope with the vehicle level. The measurement you want is the angle between the driveshaft (tube) and the axle pinion shaft. If you draw a line straight out from the pinion shaft centerline and measure its relationship to the driveline slope, you have the angle you want. Put simpler, you can place your string gauge on the flat outer flange of the pinion yoke with the pinion/U-joint yoke facing straight up and down. Note: For pinion angle reference, the axle’s pinion shaft centerline is parallel to the pinion yoke’s outer flanges. The magnetic angle gauges attach to the U-joint yoke’s outer flange(s). It is important that the U-joint yoke’s flanges face straight up and down when measuring this angle. The 1.5 to 2 degrees is the angle or tilt of the rear U-joint. If your driveline slope with a string line gauge is 20 degrees, the axle’s pinion centerline angle should be 18.5 to 18 degrees. (In geometry or trigonometry, the angle between the driveline tube and pinion shaft centerline is two intersecting slope lines with a deviation of 1.5 to 2 degrees.) With the CV driveline, the axle’s pinion yoke joint angle approaches a straight line with the driveshaft tube, deviating only 1.5 to 2 degrees from straight. That tilt has the axle pinion shaft pointed slightly downward. The usual tools for measuring this angle would be a protractor gauge or a magnetic spirit/bubble level gauge. Both measure in degrees like your string gauge and plumb bob. Your approach can work if you use the gauge and plumb bob/string properly. When the axle housing is rotated correctly, the driveshaft tube will appear to run nearly straight into the pinion, the tilt being only the slight 1.5 to 2 degrees. Below is a factory/Mopar Inclinometer (7663) tool for measuring U-joint flange angles and, in this instance, the front axle caster angle. This gauge has a spirit/bubble and a tilt scale in degrees. The top of the gauge has a magnet that attaches to a U-joint yoke flange: Here is a time-honored Spicer Anglemaster gauge, the latest "Anglemaster II" version. Note that this gauge attaches on the flatly machined flange end of the U-joint yoke. This angle can be quickly compared to the slope angle of the driveshaft. The difference between the two angles is the U-joint tilt or joint angle. These angles are always measured with the vehicle at normal/curb ride height and vehicle weight on the axle(s). Do not take driveline and joint angle measurements with the axle hanging off the floor. The vehicle should be standing on level ground or with the axle(s) supported safely on jack stands or tripod stands. Driveline angles for trucks or SUVs that carry a hefty load should be measured with the full payload on the axles: For more information on an SYE conversion and the use of a CV rear driveshaft, visit: 4WD Mechanix Magazine article on an NP/NV231 transfer case SYE kit installation, click here. For details on our XJ Cherokee's 6-inch long arm lift that required an SYE and CV rear driveline, click here for the magazine article at 4WD Mechanix.
  20. Speed, I have a suggestion for a 1978-87 Toyota pickup service manual that you would find very helpful: Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual by Robert Bentley Publisher. Bentley is my book publisher, and they do the factory shop manuals for VW North America and Porsche, very professional, detailed stuff. My Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible is in the Bentley Publishers book stable, but in this case I'm referring to an earlier Bentley in-house book that was model year specific and a designated shop/repair manual. The Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual is no longer in print and would need to be found and purchased used at Amazon, eBay or from an automotive literature (used books) outlet. Here's an earlier printing (through 1984 models) at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Pickup-Truck-Service-Manual/dp/0837602521/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=Toyota+Pickup%2C+4Runner+SErvice+Manual+Robert+Bentley&qid=1577800801&s=books&sr=8-1-fkmr1 If you can find a copy of Bentley's Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual on eBay or through used book channels, it has far more detail and helpful content than Haynes or any other aftermarket book. In the "Brakes and Wheels" Chapter 8, Pages 7-10 of the 1978-87 edition, there is a section devoted to your truck's Load-Sensing Proportioning System, including useful illustrations of the parts relationships and their original shapes. Equipped with a quality shop manual (either the book I'm suggesting or an official Toyota FSM that covers your truck), your confidence would soar. Unfortunately, many shops do not follow these protocols and either do not have the right books or have functionally illiterate, "know-it-all" staff. Social media like YouTube has gone further to dumb down and trivialize automotive work. Better training standards, brake work certification tests (like the trucking industry) and pay incentives would be helpful in this country. NIASE is a step in that direction but does not train techs to work on specific vehicles, model types or unique brake devices like your Toyota load-sensing rear brake proportioning system. I have bookcases full of FSMs from the 1940s to present and general automotive trade books dating back to the 1920s. Despite 52 years of professional automotive work, I still rely upon factory-level shop procedures and protocols. Anyone who doesn't is not performing professional grade work. If you cannot find or afford a used copy of the Toyota Pickup, 4Runner Service Manual, let me know. I'll scan the four pages described from the copy setting in my bookcase and post as a PDF. My publisher will not be offended nor cite me for infringing on copyright, the book is no longer in the market. Moses
  21. I think whatever parts I get will have to be from a Ranger,since many of them were equipped with the drivetrain I want,while I OWN the only Explorer I've ever seen with a manual transmission and I've never found one that didn't have electronic Four Wheel Drive/automatic hubs. Speed
  22. I originally found the conversion on Marlin Crawler's website,seems several people have also done it and there's quite a lot of diversity on the methods and the parts used. I'd been looking for a discussion that covered some other conversions as well,the one I wanted was the Ford Blue-Grommet module,but I didn't find that one. The GM one is pretty simple-the two wires from the Distributor go to one end of the module,the terminals marked W and G. (If there's no spark,I can reverse these two wires and all should be fine.) The other two wires to the module,one of which is marked B,for Battery,goes to keyed 12V, (I'm going to use the same wire as the ignitor did,out of the OEM plug.) and will also connect to the + side of the coil,and C,for Chassis ground, would go to the - side of the coil and any other grounds I want to use. They say I can ground the Module case through one of the mounting screws,plenty of good grounds makes everything happy. I got some di-electric grease and built a heat sink/bracket from aluminum. For the mount,I screwed the module to the beam of an aluminum air compressor connecting rod with a heat sink sandwiched in,and plenty of grease in between. The rod was bolted to the inner fender,with the rod cap on the outside of the inner fender.;I've seen some people use the original Toyota coil and the ignitor bracket to simplify the mounting. So it's only four wires and a mounting plate to make it work,if you don't mind using used parts. ====================================================================================================================== On that carb,I think I'll just drive it awhile and see how it acts-I MIGHT not even have to change anything. ====================================================================================================================== This cab is the same one that got tumbled down a mountain. It wasn't too straight when they put the new windshield in it-it already had a half circle crack in it right behind where the rear view mirror would have been if it was still there. ====================================================================================================================== The proportioning valve is still there and connected-not sure of the adjustment,I don't know what the link is supposed to look like-it looks to ME like it's all pulled out of shape. It has a shallow "S" bend in it,but it must be close to where it should be or it wouldn't reach from here to there. I feel like the "mechanic" didn't adjust anything before calling it DONE. ====================================================================================================================== I have the tools,sort of a place to work (Outdoors,slanted driveway that looks like it was used to test explosives),a book (An 80's vintage Haynes repair manual-and some internet) etc. I mostly don't do a lot of the work anymore because my health has been screwing me up. Messed up shoulder,Arthritis in my hands,lower back damage,etc. All were the residuals of doing stuff I shouldn't have done,back when I was young and invincible...There's also the feeling that I don't know as much now as I did back when I knew ALL about EVERYTHING. 🤡 I wouldn't have been so upset with the half-assed brake work if I hadn't paid a premium price for it. When I have someone doing work for free,or for a six pack,I know I'll be getting pretty much what I paid for,but there's no way,by ANY stretch of the imagination,THIS would be worth $600.00! THIS was supposed to last for a pretty long while. I shoulda taken it right back and worked 'em over about it,but like I said,I was without a running vehicle and with a lot of stuff still to move,so I made a (BAD) executive decision. THEY made a BAD decision by releasing my truck without so much as test driving it across their parking lot to see if the brakes even WORKED.😠 I probably coulda OWNED their shop,but they were already closing and retiring-would it have even been worth the fight?
  23. When installing a CV or SYE rear driveline, the rear axle pinion angle is important. A Jeep XJ Cherokee owner asked me about this angle and axle shimming (changing the pinion shaft angle). Here is our exchange: XJ Cherokee Owner's Question: "Mr. Ludel...I am wondering if you have an SYE on your XJ? I had one put on with a Tom Woods driveshaft. [The Jeep] rides smoother with its 2 1/2” lift, but I did not install shims. Are shims a must with an SYE?...Lynn W." My reply: Hi, Lynn…An SYE driveshaft has a double-Cardan or CV front joint. A double-Cardan joint has self-cancelling angles. The angle at the pinion/axle end of the rear driveshaft is important, however. That angle with an SYE/CV driveshaft should be 1.5 to 2-degrees. This is measured with the vehicle on the ground or the axles weighted. If the rear joint is straight (0-degrees), there will be inadequate rotation of the needle bearings inside the U-joint. The joint will fail prematurely…Too much rear U-joint angle is not good either. So, to answer your question, you do want to shim/rotate the rear axle and pinion shaft to achieve a 1.5 to 2-degree rear U-joint angle. I use hard steel (not aluminum) shims...Moses Here are Lynn's photos...This shaft needs a rear U-joint angle adjustment: Lynn's SYE and CV driveshaft has a Double-Cardan front joint...Here, the double U-joints cancel each other's angles... Lynn's rear axle pinion joint angle needs to be corrected. This single Cardan joint should run at 1.5 to 2 degrees, set with the vehicle's weight on the axles...To correct the pinion angle, wedge shaped shims fit between the rear axle's spring perches and the leaf springs. Pinion/U-joint angle is corrected with these shims.
  24. Hi, Speed, have a safe and pleasant New Year...Best in 2020...See my comments below:
  25. The Toyota developed a NEW issue-no spark. It died on the road,suddenly,just like I turned off the ignition. Plenty of cranking power,but NO spark. After having the coil tested and found okay,popular opinion is that the ignitor is the problem. I now have the parts to convert to a GM ignition module,I just need to make an aluminum base plate to mount the module to and get some di-electric grease,and grow some warm weather to do the install and it should be a runner again. I bought a fuel pressure regulator and installed it,set to 2-1/2 psi to start with,then I went through and re-set the carb to the specs listed in the installation papers. Once I have it running again I can go through and fine-tune it a bit. Following that,my only urgent task will be figuring out where the water is getting into the cab and dripping onto the stereo,the CB and the seat on both sides. It's getting pretty annoying. Now that you mention the brake booster,it reminds me-the brakes have never felt completely right since the "Car Doctors" shop "rebuilt" them. I had to extend the push rod between the master cylinder and the booster about an inch to even HAVE brakes. The truck stops well enough,but I suspect the rear brakes aren't playing. As I stop,the brakes are quite good,but as I roll down to a stop,it feels like the front brakes grab hard enough that it feels like the axle "winds up",bouncing the truck backwards slightly. I think the rear brakes just need adjusting. I have 2 of the 3 cables needed to fix the E-brake,so I'd like to try fixing that,if I can sort out their weird cable routing. That also was supposed to be done in the brake "rebuild". Since it wasn't possible at the time for me to do without the truck,I fixed what I had to,to be able to drive it,and by the time I had alternate transportation it was too late to claim their shoddy workmanship in a Court case. Speed
  26. Let us know how this works out, Monty. What lube will you use in the unit? What did Koenig recommend?
  27. "I'M BACK" LOL Well this has been a learning experience. I ended up showing the winch to a retired mechanic. He actually worked on a couple of these ol girls in the past. He said I was over thinking, being worried about the way the thrust bearing spins and all. In our talk he said I was right that the gaskets acted as shims in getting proper pressure on the bearings. Two new T88-904A1 bearings some trial and error, 3 gaskets on one side and 2 on the other side and I feel that things will work fine when I get a chance to test it out.
  28. Monty...As a guess, the "KT88" bearing is likely a Timken T88. The "K" could be for "Koenig" parts inventory replacement purposes. Below is an illustration of the T88 Timken bearing. Does this look like a match? If this is it, the number is current, and retail price has it at $10-$15 from a variety of sources. I've added two part numbers that Timken still uses. The links are live and go to Motion Industries. If you can confirm the bearing fit (see sizes), the bearing is available from any Timken source. There is a small image below the larger one that may be helpful. Moses Timken T88W-904A3 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width Timken T88-904A1 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width
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