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  4. Speed...The SM465 has a compound low of 6.55:1; the NP435L and NP435E versions have the sought after compound low of 6.68:1; the sought after SM420 has a 7.05:1 compound low gear. There are taller geared versions of the NP435 and SM420. I believe all SM465 units are 6.55:1 in 1st gear. Always check the 1st gear ratio before buying any of these units. The NP435 dates to 1962, so there are applications with an E-brake on the output end. 'Sixties and even later medium duty truck applications of the NP435 and SM465 should turn up an E-brake at the output. Here is a nice rundown of the NP435 applications. I-H and GM medium-duty models would be a place to start: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2015/11/New-Process-435-Four-speed-Transmission/3749160.html The Clark transmission is a good default position. They were found in trucks similar to yours and work well for their intended usage. I serviced and drove that early 'fifties I-H medium duty with the RD406 inline six and Clark 5-speed. It worked perfectly fine and kept my double-clutching skills sharp. Higher compression with a long stroke vintage engine design has always been dicey. Running a maximum of 8:1, possibly 8.5:1, seems plenty for any of these engines. Your rpm ceiling makes perfect sense, 3000 rpm is well up there, though I'm sure vintage racers reached 4,500-5,000 rpm. For how long? Anyone's guess. Moses
  5. The MAIN reason I've always liked the 420 is the "deep as an oil well" low gear. Was there ever a 435 or 465 with anything close to the 420's low gear? Were either of 'em offered with the E-brake option(?)? Regarding the limitations of the Jimmie Six,I've NEVER been a fan of high revs. When I had my 80 Harley 80 incher,I had 'er geared to run 80 mph at around 2500 revs. IT was happy there,I was happy there,it was perfect,and with solid lifters and a points ignition it had plenty of torque to get rolling even riding two-up with a load of yard sale treasure. BTW-the 4 main six seems to be VERY critical of balance,so when a build is done you have to have the rotating assembly balanced REALLY well. Another thing that will make it live longer is a set of lighter pistons-those stockers would be a liability if it's gonna wind more than 3500. (Not sure how a set of light,higher compression pistons would hold up in a 2 ton truck,though-I'd assume lugging it down to 300 rpm would no longer be an option.) I'd be curious -to see what changes happen with pistons 1/3 the weight of stock ones,with a couple of points higher compression-horsepower curve,torque curve,MORE torque or less,MORE horsepower,or less? At what rpm? I've set my own redline for the 302 at around 2750 if needed,but usually around 2600 against the factory's 3400. Besides,a Jimmie doesn't NEED more than 2600 to do its work-twisting it beyond that's just bangin' your head against the wall. It looks like finding the 4 speed I'd like will be a long shot,so I'll roll with the Clark for now. My next projects have to be a new alternator,and 5/8" pulley,a new 5/8" belt,rebuilding the rear section of drive line,better headlights,swapping the Cherokee black leather bucket seats in,and a new clutch. (MAYBE new rear axle seals and brakes...) And an EXHAUST system. I've decided on a high flow quiet muffler in 3",going back into a 3" stack on the left. A LOT of this will have to wait until later,as I have other more pressing things to deal with. The alternator/belt/pulley is a MUST HAVE. Speed
  6. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Ian, I'm sure your Aussie Willys 4WD Pickup will draw much attention as those miles accumulate!
  7. This is a good question, Speed. You need enough clutch master cylinder piston stroke and pedal travel to displace enough fluid to release the clutch. The clutch slave/release bearing must travel far enough to move the clutch cover pressure plate away from the clutch disk. If your pedal hits the floor too soon, without displacing enough fluid, the clutch fingers will not go far enough to release the clutch. Your concern here would be pedal travel. Do you need the pedal to travel further? If so, a longer pedal pushrod would help, and that would raise the pedal further from the floorboard. In any case, when the pedal is fully released, there should be a slight gap between the pedal pushrod and the clutch master cylinder piston. This enables the clutch master cylinder's piston to fully retract, which enables the clutch master cylinder to displace enough fluid when the clutch pedal moves the pushrod over its full range of travel. Another overlooked possibility is a clutch master cylinder piston seal that simply does not hold fluid and pressure properly. Fluid could be seeping past the piston seal and not moving through the hydraulic line into the clutch hydraulic release bearing. This happens with brake master cylinders as well. Glad you're working out the rest of the vehicle's wrinkles... Moses
  8. Nothing is as easy as it seems. I got a call from the shop manager asking me to come to the shop. When I got there I expected the truck to be apart waiting on installation of its new clutch but NOTHING was done. Turns out the rear spring hangers and shackles are rusted through,and the mechanic said he wouldn't do the clutch until I got these parts replaced. (It ALSO needs front wheel bearings and lower ball joints.) I have the parts located,it'll be a little spendy but it fixes everything I need to start driving the Exploder. Then,all that's left is little stuff-a door,some power window switches,a heater fan switch,a shifter for the manual shifted Transfer case I'll be installing when Spring comes and a set of locking hubs. Grand total will be under $2,000.00 for something I've wanted for a long time. Speed
  9. Hi Moses the mechanical side of this vehicle is good engine & gearbox are fine driveshafts are good the diffs seem ok so i'll find out as i put some miles on it
  10. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Ian...The windshield installation looks fantastic, this involved two-piece glass and divider is a vintage cue. Worth the extensive effort, the windshield gives the truck an authentic "look"... Quite a project, you persevered! Nice work...The tray/flatbed deck at the back should do it...Is the powertrain ready for the long haul? Moses
  11. I don't know about quality,but I'll be getting my switches from LMC. It seems like everyone has problems with the window switches. It'd be worth sourcing the best of 'em and offering a conversion harness and switch to fit whatever vehicle you own. Sounds like the mechanic had plans to bleed the clutch again but he says he'll go ahead and change out the clutch first. He's convinced that quick release coupling at the release bearing will allow air into the system so he'll have to bleed the system again anyway. Something that crossed my mind is this;When I got this truck there were supposed to be two nuts welded to the inside of the firewall that were to bolt the master cylinder in-the bolts were to be inserted from under the hood,and the one closest to the transmission was a genuine pain to get to-the brake booster hung right over it and my arm had to bend backwards to start it. the other hole was useless,the nut had broken loose,so the hole it left was almost the size of a dime. I went ahead and broke the other nut off the firewall,and put a modified "clip nut" on each ear of the master cylinder,and using bolts with medium sized flat washers,I was able to bolt the master cylinder in from INSIDE the truck-MUCH easier. Here's the question-the clip part of the clip nuts is,I'm guessing maybe ..020-.040" thick,and that's what is between the cylinder and firewall-would that stand the master cylinder far enough from the firewall to affect the clutch travel? I doubt .040 is enough to make a difference,but then,I didn't think a BB sized air bubble would keep the clutch from working either. Popular opinion in the shop is that the PO installed something wrong or something he installed is defective. (release bearing-is it supposed to have a spacer or something behind it to push it forward from the transmission a set distance??) Seems like there was a hard plastic "sleeve" about a half inch or so thick that kept the release bearing from bottoming against the front of the transmission,but this might have been a different application.Looking at the Manual I see there IS a bolted in "alignment collar" of sorts,and a spring behind the release bearing;I think forgetting either one could cause a failure to release.
  12. Hi Moses weve got the windscreen in didnt manage to do a video for youtube but its in we had to cut the glass slightly smaller than original as we used laminated glass the original was tempered so we could not apply the same pressure on the glass as would have in the factory so now all i have to do is fit the tray on the back & get a weigh bridge certificate then the engineer can inspect it ready for rego
  13. Busy, busy. Where do you source quality switches? Jeep XJs have a laundry list of switches that fail. Explorer, too?
  14. STILL waiting for the Exploder to be finished. They finally got the hydraulics working but it still isn't disengaging fully. Since I have a full new clutch set,he's replacing it all;should be done today,but I'm figuring Friday. Then I'll take it over and get tires on it. I have a set of P235/75-15's for it that only have about 100 miles on 'em. I've decided to replace all the power window switches and I'm going to replace the left rear door complete,since the linkage,switches and motor are all toast in this one. (Besides-this truck is the only one I've ever had that doesn't have at least one door of a different color. Can't stay that way-it's TRADITION. Regarding the 4WD,while it's on the rack I'll look at the wiring to the shift motor,and see if I can figure out why the 4X4 isn't working-that's kinda necessary up here. After THAT,all it needs is a real trailer hitch,wiring plug and brake controller. Oh,I also need to figure out why the heater fan doesn't work;I checked all the fuses/breakers in the truck and all is well there. Hope the switch isn't bad-it's about $70.00 new. (That's where a toggle switch will come into play...) More to follow....
  15. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Will share your praise for the 400 with my son, he's heard it from me, but your view is hands-on...Apparently, there's a reason for the cult following...I'm drawn to the dry-sump oiling system and oil cooler...This is as good as it gets for an air-cooled engine (ask Porsche) and why I am storing a vintage XR500R for restoration. My 1984 XR350R is a wet sump. Both of these models have dual carburetors...The 400 is a single carburetor model, simpler if not "better".
  16. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Knew you had the front earmarked for disc brakes, was that a Jeep-parts conversion? Are you keeping the master cylinder beneath the floorboard? The master cylinder needs to be 4-wheel disc brake application; drum brake master cylinder outlet ports will have residual pressure valves. On my '55 CJ 4-wheel disc conversion, the drum-type dual master cylinder required removal of residual pressure valves from the master cylinder's outlet ports. (Valves are behind the removable flare seats.) This is a 1972 Jeep CJ master cylinder for a four-wheel drum brake system. Note the two residual check-valves, one for each end of the vehicle's braking system. Converting to disc brakes, I removed these residual check valves and springs then carefully reinstalled the flare seats. The first Jeep CJs with disc front/drum rear brakes have a check valve at the rear drum port and no check valve at the front disc brake system. This 1973-80 Chilton image shows a tandem master cylinder with one check valve on the rear (drum) brake circuit and no check valve on the front (disc brake) system. Late model vehicles have residual (very low pressure) devices just to keep pads next to the rotors and prevent lag on brake application. Late disc brake applications do have low hydraulic residual pressure, just enough to keep pads close to the rotors. This pressure, however, is lower than drum brake residual valve pressure. Drum brake residual pressure keeps the wheel cylinder cups expanded and sealing. Stout brake shoe return springs overcome the residual pressure and keep the shoes from pressing against the drum and dragging. Typical residual pressure for a drum brake Jeep master cylinder would be 10-12 psi. (Aftermarket Wilwood residual valves for drum brakes are around 10 psi.) This is well below the shoe retraction spring tension. This residual pressure level, however, would be high enough to cause disc brake pads to drag on the rotors. This amount of residual pressure will cause premature pad wear, overheating of the rotors, brake drag and even wheel lockup if applied within a disc brake system. Speedway Motors offers a 2 psi residual valve (inline mounted) for disc brake systems that use a beneath-the-floorboard master cylinder. They hint that the firewall mounted cylinders have enough gravity feed pressure (not sure about this one) to overcome a spongy pedal or slight lag when applying the disc brakes. My dual drum brake master cylinder, mounted beneath the floorboard with both residual valves removed, feeds front and rear disc brakes without timing/lag issues or pedal sponginess. Earlier OEM disc/drum systems have no residual pressure valve on the disc brake portion of the braking system although these systems do have firewall mounted master cylinders. The 2 psi residual valve would be like late four-wheel disc systems. You can watch for any signs of lag or pedal sponginess. These 2 psi valves are available if needed.
  17. 53HiHood

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    The 400 is a great bike, one of the best trail bikes in my opinion.
  18. 53HiHood

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    The front is already disc, I’ll just need to upgrade the master cylinder and set up the proportioning valve I got for it.
  19. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Did you like the XR400R? There's a cult following, and my son picked one up with only 134 original miles (nubs still on the tires!). It's stored at the moment, and we'll ride this Spring. Air cooled with dry sump, should be a nice trail and desert bike...
  20. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    So, Samurai front rotors for the rear and front of your 3B or for the rear only? Another approach at the front? This should be adequate at the rear. You may need a proportioning valve although the short wheelbase (80" in your case) often offsets vehicle pitch. A mechanical proportioning valve is available from Wilwood and others if you need it. If you're still running the Model 18 transfer case, you do have an E-brake on the rear driveshaft. In good condition without oil on the shoes, these brakes are tried and proven. Moses
  21. 53HiHood

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    I spent a lot of time on an XR400R and while a heavy bike for dirt bike standards, much better than the AT. It’s also a couple hundred pounds lighter. I do have the standard 6 speed, but I would mind trying the DCT, I hear it’s nice. Rekluse does make an auto clutch for the AT now, although for the riding I do I don’t think it will be much of a benefit.
  22. 53HiHood

    YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    Yeah I passed through this past spring on the Thursday leading up to EJS, what a zoo. I couldn’t even get govt rate. But not an issue on my way home in mid August.
  23. 53HiHood

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Samurai rotors(86) and Chevy or caddie calipers. I’m not too concerned with adding an e-brake so I’ll go with the standard ones.
  24. Moses Ludel

    YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    Wow, thanks for the update! I've been in a dialogue with a local KTM 250 owner who is considering that clutch. He has the older technology Rekluse and likes it a lot. I'll share both of your findings, the Boyeson Rad Valve also sounds impressive! The Moab trip with bikes would be fun, I've considered doing it many times, talking myself out of taking an XR during Easter Jeep Safari, which for me is always a "work week". On that note, I would avoid sharing trails with the 20K people who flood Moab for EJS, the rates for lodging and food get inflated badly during the EJS week. City Market holds to normal pricing for those camping out; the market is part of Kroger's chain and deserves a plug!
  25. Moses Ludel

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    Glad your work on the XR650L turned out well and that you caught the valve adjustment need right away. Would be a shame to damage a fresh valve job...The Africa Twin is bigger than my XR650R, which is actually okay with single track. Weight is a large factor. Tires can make a big difference, your findings will be helpful to other owners of Africa Twins. Your Africa Twin has the manual clutch, right? Not the semi-automatic transmission...I spent time at the local dealer at Reno, the floor model was the semi-automatic. I'm old school here.
  26. Moses Ludel

    Rear Disc Conversion options

    Do these brackets work with GM S/T truck calipers and OE replacement (late '70s to '86) Jeep CJ rotors? If so, they could be the brackets or at least similar to the type Warn produced. (As you know, Warn has been based at Clackamas and Milwaukee, Oregon.) I used that style bracket with Warn's recommended GM single piston calipers and the correct diameter and thickness rotors...$200 for the complete conversion is terrific! Good job...
  27. 53HiHood

    YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    I never did post back about the Rekluse Radius X. It is an amazing clutch, the best upgrade I’ve done to any bike. I can go out and ride more technical terrain and really challenge my abilities and the bike is impossible to stall. It’s a real confidence builder and I wish I would have tried the Rekluse coolaid years ago. I did add the Boyeson Rad Valve back in late 2017, it seems to make the bike run cleaner, more responsive, at all rpm’s. It definitely has a more crisp top end. This past summer I added an Acerbis desert tank, now I just need to get out to ride enough to burn all that fuel. All in all, this is a great bike and the whole combo really seems to be working with the clutching, tires, fueling, exhaust. It runs great. My buddy with the XR wants to make a Moab trip this spring, I would love to but time is always scarce for me.
  28. 53HiHood

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    I finally got to see the XR650L is action after I rebuilt the engine this past Spring. Too my disliking, I could hear the loose rockers when my buddy pulled up. He has not been properly maintaining the bike, mostly due to lack of experience and knowledge so I made him watch a quick YouTube video on valve clearance checks and had him help me set the valve clearance on the bike. All valves were way out of spec. But all is good now, fortunately he put minimal hours on the bike. And why can’t all bikes be that easy and quick for valve checks and adjustments? We did do some riding, my big Africa Twin is maybe too big for single track and gets squirrely in the mud. I think I’m going to look at different options for the front tire.
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