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  1. Today
  2. The bellhousing spacer is there. There is plenty of room on the bearing retainer. Yes the arm will release sufficiently with the boot removed. It's a new Crown boot.
  3. Jeepdog...Glad you're making progress on the T4 project...Good you noticed that the clutch release bearing does not retract far enough to clear the clutch cover fingers. This is not acceptable. Is the bellhousing too far forward? I cannot see the "shim"/spacer between the bellhousing and engine block. Is this just the camera angle? Is there room on the front bearing retainer for the throw-out bearing to release further? Make sure the bearing is not hitting/bottoming at the transmission end of the retainer snout when the clutch pedal is released...If the boot were not in place, would the arm release sufficiently? Moses
  4. Yesterday
  5. I have the clutch assembly and bellhousing back on. I was able to have my wife push the clutch pedal in (trans not installed yet) while I watched how far the fork and throw out bearing push the pressure plate fingers in. It definitely does not hit the clutch plate. One thing I did notice is the bearing slightly rests on the fingers with the pedal disengaged. The new fork boot seems to prevent it from going back. I also have a new return spring on the fork but its not strong enough to overcome the boot.
  6. Last week
  7. Moses Ludel

    Corvair Aircraft Engine conversion

    This is so exciting, Scott...The robust nature of the Corvair flat six air-cooled engine is immediately evident to anyone familiar with Posche/VW engines. SPA's exotic aircraft-upgrade components are impressive, especially the crankshaft! Eliminating the Corvair OEM cooling and fan system is a major gain, the stock engines were notorious for tossing their circuitously routed drive belts. The ignition for aircraft use obviously needs safeguarding! So, a modified stock distributor runs both a breaker point component and the Crane electronic conversion? Two coils, each ignition circuit operating independently to assure reliable spark? In the event that one circuit fails (either the breaker point or the electronic pickup), the other primary ignition circuit continues to fire its own coil? There must be a reasonable following for these Corvair aircraft engine conversions if SPA makes these precision components. Do you have any data on how many SPA modified engines exist? The Corvair engine cores should still be available, G.M. built over 1.7M units between 1960 and 1969! Which year cores are the "best"? Your '64 would be the larger displacement 164 cubic inch version (rather than the earlier 1960-1963 145 CI engine)...Corvair was at its prime by the later era, the redesigned '65-up chassis handled well, and the car was very quick when in 1965-66 the turbocharged Corsa models boasted 180 horsepower at 4,000 rpm from the "pancake" engine! Moses
  8. Here are some photos of the Corvair aircraft engine conversion for my Pietenpol Air Camper project. The Air Camper was designed by Bernard Pietenpol in 1929 and used a model A ford engine originally. Later Pietenpol was the first to use a Corvair engine in his design. My engine is based on the conversion design and parts developed by William Wynne at flycorvair.com and Sport Performance Aviation flywithspa.com. It is a bored out .030 2.7 Liter (164 C.I. originally) 100 HP engine. 3.0 liter versions are also popular using other piston/cylinder combinations and a 3.3 stoker option is available using SPA's billet crankshaft. My engine uses original cylinders with forged pistons. A 5th bearing and crankshaft for prop loads designed by SPA. A modified oil assembly with high volume oil pump and oil filter adapter. Reworked and modified heads by SPA include welded on intake tubes, deep hardened seats and stainless steel valves. All the original corvair fan and blower equipment goes away and traditional aircraft cooling ducts get used. The ignition is a modified distributor which has points and a crane electronic unit and two coils. The advance curve is modified to come in early and total advance is 32 degrees. These modifications have been tested and proven by Mr Wynne over the past 30 years. The corvair has proven to be a very robust and reliable flight engine and has a reputation for smooth running. I call it my Tonawonda Tornado.
  9. Exciting, Stuart! See my comments below...Great progress: Great photos, Scott, thanks! Moses
  10. My CJ re-builders manual has arrived and I have had a chance to do some reading and thinking about where I want to go with this project. Since this jeep is still all original and untouched by any modifications I will do a quality rebuild of the 258 and keep it OEM. It has served this jeep well for the past 40 years after all so why not go for another 40. I will do a standard .030 re-bore with new pistons. The bores look good but have some wear as do the piston skirts and gummed up oil rings. Best to start from scratch after 118K miles. The rod bearings and journals look great which backs up my theory that this jeep was babied most of its life. I have experience with the older carter 1 barrel on my 54 F-head so that is a plus. This one looks only sightly more complex and was working when the jeep last ran. I had entertained the thought of the Comp Cam 252 but I'm not sure what the Carter 1 barrel would think of that and may open up a pandoras box. I could use some advice here as my gut feeling tells me I would need an upgrade of my fuel/air intake system to see any gains. This jeep has the Prestolite distributor with the BID (breaker-less inductive discharge) module. This may be an area I will look at upgrading. Is this the weakest link for this engine? I think I read that it is not the best option however it appears to have worked so far. I could use some advice here. I share your IMG_0271.MOVon keeping the engine bay as simple as possible for back country use. This is one reason I have treasured the CJ3B on many remote hunting trips and this was a factor in my decision to not do a stroker or EFI at this time. I'll get this project rolling but have a daughter to get married next month $$$. This project also came along in the middle of an airplane building project. I have spent the past several years converting a 1964 Corvair engine into a safe and reliable Aircraft engine. It sounds crazy but it was done under the guidance of William Wynne at Flycorvair.com. It runs now and I'll post a video if I can. The airplane is underway but is a long term project. I'm not a professional mechanic but this drives home the point that its all about how much you are willing to learn. I'm enjoying the site and I value your experience. I made some very costly mistakes on the F-head rebuild several years ago taking shortcuts. I learned my lesson the hard way that time. IMG_0271.MOVIMG_0271.MOV
  11. Thunderbolt1078...You're welcome...Below is a PDF of your 2.5L TBI engine's vacuum circuit. Zoom into the (upper) Fig. 8 for details. Note that for vacuum to reach the EGR valve, it originates at the throttle body (a ported vacuum source) and goes to the EGR/Canister Solenoid. After the solenoid, vacuum goes through a vacuum "T" to 1) the EVAP canister Purge Signal in one direction and 2) the EGR Valve in the other. Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Engine Vacuum Circuit.pdf The vacuum source is the throttle body, and for vacuum to reach the EGR valve, it must pass through the EGR/Canister Solenoid without any vacuum loss or bleed-off. The same applies at the canister purge. Vacuum must not bleed off here. If there is a vacuum loss, the EGR valve will not have adequate vacuum. Check the vacuum each step on this circuit. Begin at the throttle body: Confirm whether this is manifold vacuum or ported vacuum. Ported vacuum means that the vacuum only applies as you open the throttle, then vacuum tapers off around 1/4 throttle opening. Confirm and test the TBI vacuum port shown in the diagram. Note whether this is ported vacuum or manifold vacuum (continuous vacuum regardless of throttle setting). The function of the EGR/Canister Purge solenoid suggests that this TBI port is manifold vacuum, present at all throttle settings and highest at an idle, tapering off as the throttle opens wide. The EGR/Canister Purge solenoid is the gateway for vacuum to the canister purge port and the EGR valve. Factory statement: "The solenoid is energized during engine warm-up, closed throttle (idle), wide open throttle and rapid acceleration/deceleration." Note: Energized means the valve is closed! You don't want EGR function during engine cold start and warm-up, when closed throttle/idling, during wide open throttle or under rapid acceleration and normal deceleration. Yes, the EGR valve should read closed when the engine is idling if the solenoid is working properly. If the solenoid is disconnected or always open, vacuum will flow continuously to the EGR valve and Canister Purge. Make sure the EGR/Canister Solenoid opens at the right time to allow vacuum pull past the solenoid. Check vacuum at each side of the solenoid. Test the solenoid's function. This system depends upon the EGR/Purge Canister Solenoid to activate the EGR valve at the right times. Finally, make sure the EVAP system works properly and that the canister purge vacuum does not leak off to atmosphere. Check the EVAP's vacuum system for any leaks or disconnects...Each vacuum section must be intact and functioning properly for vacuum to reach the EGR valve. Moses
  12. Thank you Moses the diagnostic port Diagrams were very helpful. I just have one more question. I hooked up a Snap on MT2500 scanner to my 89 jeep yj and everything checked out and read "ok to drive" but the EGR valve read "open" the whole time the engine was running at idle(idle read 880 rpm) and i removed the vacuum hose at the EGR valve with no change to the reading. Shouldn't the valve read closed at idle?
  13. Earlier
  14. Thunderbolt1078...Below is a PDF layout for the diagnostics ports, which outlines the ISA motor terminal you want to access. Ports and plug terminals are each numbered...Note that your 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler is the Model 81 (2.5L TBI equipped) plug layout (Fig. 97 at bottom of the page); the XJ/MJ Cherokee and Comanche 2.5L TBI is the upper layout (Fig. 96 for Models 60/70). I also included the ECU plug layout, as that could be another need. The ECU plug layout is for a Model 81 with a 2.5L TBI engine like yours: Jeep YJ-XJ 2.5L TBI Diagnostics Ports.pdf Moses
  15. On the passenger side engine compartment on my 89 yj 2.5 liter there is some diagnostic plug in connectors. which one is the connector for the isa motor control? Which one is D-1 and D-2? How are each individual holes in connectors numbered ( 1-2-3-4-5-6 etc>)?
  16. That's an interesting thought, and is certainly a possibility. I don't know that Fred or I have an OEM bellcrank shaft to compare to the one from the kit, but maybe another member reading this does, and could provide a comparison. Thank you again for your help with all of this, Moses!
  17. snoopy2x…There may be another reason for the switch to a self-locking nut: Maybe a castellated nut will not index properly with the aftermarket shaft’s cotter pin hole. Compare the location of the cotter pin hole on a stock/OEM bellcrank shaft with the aftermarket shaft's cotter pin hole location. Moses
  18. Thanks very much, Moses, and I've sent Fred a link to your excellent analysis above. I asked him if the threaded part of the bellcrank pin that came with the kit had a hole drilled through it to accept a cotter pin, and he said it did. I can understand his and his mechanic's confusion. While the bellcrank pin has that hole, the self-locking nut (which resembles a castle nut, but has narrower slots) would not allow for the installation of a cotter pin through it without modifying the nut by widening the slots. It sounds like maybe the manufacturer of the bellcrank repair kit he purchased started out including a castle nut that would allow the insertion of a cotter pin, then switched to a self-locking nut at some point during production - but did so while continuing to provide bellcrank pins with a cotter pin hole drilled through them. In any case, Fred has already purchased an NOS bellcrank and the Timken tapered roller bearings needed to have a custom bellcrank machined, like the ones shown in my post on the 8th. That custom unit will likely be installed later this month, and will hopefully permanently solve the issue.
  19. Jeepdog...To allay your concerns, measure the amount of fork movement at the shift tower and fork: The shifter should not be able to move the clutch hub this far. Keys/inserts popping out is a clear sign of excessive hub movement, which you can only do on the bench. (Be careful not to move the hub this far!) The concerns with synchronizer clutch hubs and synchronizer assemblies are: 1) the spring orientation, 2) the hub orientation, and 3) the inserts/keys being in place and indexed with the notches in the brass blocking rings. If the synchronizer hub is facing the right way, and if you installed the springs in correct orientation, you may be able to rotate the synchronizer ring(s) to the slotted section(s) and index the inserts/keys—without disassembling the entire gear assembly. Make sure the springs index properly with the inserts/keys! If the inserts/keys are not in correct position with the springs in proper orientation, the inserts/keys will not function correctly... In the photo below, the synchronizer spring orientation is clear. Pay especially close attention to the two springs; make sure the inserts/keys and springs are correctly positioned as you slide the hub back into position. Pay particularly close attention to the spring orientations. The factory "turn the assembly over..." is often misinterpreted. In this application, the nub at the middle of each spring must locate at the same insert/key!!! The open space at the spring ends should be in the same position at each side of the hub. If you stagger these springs, the keys will pop out in service: With care, you should be able to confirm the parts orientation as you slide the hub back to center. Do not damage the insert keys...You've discovered that you cannot move the hub to its extremes. Be aware that the insert/key and spring orientation can be a common assembly error. Best to get it right the first time! Lastly, make sure the synchro hubs and the shifter forks are in their middle/neutral positions before mating these parts together... Moses
  20. I haven't looked at the linkage and release bearing yet. I have started to put the transmission back together. I purchased a small parts kit to replace all the clips and washers. Also got a dial indicator for the bearing preload. Is this synchro slider supposed to go over this far. The keys pop out when i slide it over. I guess the shift fork wouldn't slide it that far with the cover on.
  21. snoopy2x...Looks like a self-locking nut that does not require a cotter pin; the slots are not for a cotter pin although a small pin might indicate when the nut is trying to loosen. An asset with a cotter pin is its safeguard function. If the castellated nut starts to loosen, and if this process is witnessed in time, you can see that the nut is trying to back off and shear the pin. Note that in the Jeep manual's FIG. O-9 image and parts legend, you see a factory self-locking nut ("Stollock Lock Nut" in the legend description). If the pinch bolt is secure, this nut would not be subject to the rotational back-and-forth that could loosen the nut. Arguably, and even in factory thinking, a self-locking nut suffices when the shaft is secured by the pinch bolt/nut and the bellcrank mount's clamping force. The failure in this case points to the stripped pinch bolt threads and nut that did not secure the bellcrank shaft. The rotating shaft eventually loosened the self-locking nut. In your tapered roller bearing aftermarket conversion kit image, you can see a castellated nut. Castellated nuts with cotter pins are common on safety items like steering linkage, including the tapered tie-rod ball stud at the bellcrank. I personally like the castellated nut on steering linkage and safety related parts, as you can see nut creep during a vehicle inspection. By design, the castellated nut and cotter pin are a last safety resort. There is always a tensioned/stationary backup when a castellated nut is employed: either a tapered stud (think tie-rod ends), a secured shaft (think Jeep bellcrank shaft), or a keyway indexed thrust washer in the case of front wheel bearings on a traditional 2WD spindle or common trailer hubs. (The backup thrust washer has an index tab that aligns with a keyway to keep the washer from rotating.) The castellated nut is subject to load but not subject to rotational force. The castellated nut (or a self-locking nut in this case) should never be subjected to back-and-forth force; if it is, you can expect the cotter pin to shear and the nut to come loose—or the self-locking nut to back off as it did in this case. For the bellcrank shaft, the pinch bolt/nut and clamping force of the bellcrank mount are engineered to prevent the bellcrank shaft from rotating. The castellated or self-locking nut should stay put. The cotter pin is a safety backup. When reassembling this bellcrank bearing and shaft, make sure the washers are installed in the factory orientation...If the bellcrank shaft has a cotter pin hole, I would use a properly graded castellated nut (must be an automotive application nut with the correct tensile and sizing) and a cotter pin. If there is no cotter pin hole in the shaft and you use a self-locking nut, make sure the nut is new and properly sized/graded. Self-locking nuts are not designed for multiple use. This nut wiggled loose and must be replaced to hold a torque setting. Moses
  22. Your comment about self-locking nuts above got me to thinking about the shaft nut in the kit Fred used. Looking at the images shown in the link ( https://walcks4wd.com/bell-crank-kit-78-2a-3a-3b-cj5.html ), I wonder if the shaft nut that came in this kit, which visually correlates with Fred's description of having very narrow cotter pin slots, could actually have been intended by its manufacturer to be a self-locking nut, rather than a castle nut? Here's an enlarged image of the nut shown in one of the photos on the link:
  23. Sounds consistent with what I envisioned...No cotter pin and no pinch bolt force. That will do it! Very glad that Fred is okay. Your vintage Jeep CJs are gems and need to stay on the road—literally and figuratively!
  24. I just spoke with Fred, and he had a (different) mechanic put the jeep up on a lift today to try to figure out exactly what caused this failure. It appears that the mechanic who installed the mount and bellcrank assembly a couple of years ago made two separate mistakes during the installation. First, no cotter pin had been installed through the castle nut at the top of the pin. In fact, the mechanic who looked at the jeep today had to slightly grind some of the "crenelations" at the top of the castle nut in order to make them wide enough to accept even a small-diameter cotter pin. Second, the previous mechanic had also overtorqued the pinch bolt to the point that it stripped the threads. Though the bolt was still in place, because the threads were stripped inside the nut, it was no longer capable of maintaining the necessary tensile "pinching" force on the pin across the slot in the mount. As far as the parts used in the 2016 installation, the bellcrank was NOS. The bellcrank shaft kit used was one that should have been (to the best of my knowledge) the correct version for Fred's jeep. His is an early 1967 CJ5 built in November of 1966. Here's a link to the rebuild kit he bought (note the narrow slots in the castle nut): https://walcks4wd.com/bell-crank-kit-78-2a-3a-3b-cj5.html I don't know for sure whether or not any parts were lost, but from his description it sounded like Fred still has all of them. Moving forward, Fred has decided to have a modified double tapered-roller-bearing bellcrank (like those linked to above) machined and install it as soon as possible. His reasoning is that this mod will not only add a greater margin of safety, but will also result in a more easily maintainable bellcrank assembly that's less likely to loosen over time and cause unwanted play in the steering system. Fred certainly realizes that he was very, very lucky indeed that the bellcrank pin fell out when and where it did. The consequences could have been truly disastrous if it had happened at speed and/or in traffic, which he had been very shortly before it failed. That someone was looking out for him seems, to both he and I, to be quite obvious!
  25. Gotcha...You also mentioned VIN numbers as a reason for not swapping another Toyota cab onto your frame...Understand!
  26. snoopy2x...Very glad that Fred is safe! This was a serious parts or installation issue... Is there a castellated nut and drilled hole at the top of the shaft? Is this a self-locking nut or a castellated nut? A castellated nut with cotter pin installed properly generally will not loosen. A self-locking nut is up for grabs, it could loosen, especially if the shaft rotates back and forth—like if the pinch bolt and nut fell out first. That's reason enough for a castellated nut and cotter pin. Of course, the pinch bolt nut needed proper torque, and the bearing and shaft fit-up must allow the pinch bolt's center line to center with the notch in the bellcrank shaft. It would be most unusual for the pinch bolt and shaft top nut to come loose simultaneously. It's likely that the pinch bolt came loose first. The shaft nut worked loose after that. Time sequence for the shaft nut loosening once the pinch bolt came loose would be anyone's guess. My guess: Not long with a self-locking nut; longer with a castellated nut and cotter pin. (The cotter pin would be sheared.) Note: If the washers are the correct O.D. and were installed properly, the shaft cannot drop through the bellcrank with the nut in place. If the washers are either the wrong O.D. or omitted, the loosening of the pinch bolt/nut would enable the washers and nut to drop through. There is a top washer(s) in Fred's photo above. Note the reference to the chamfer on the washers, they must face toward the bellcrank. This is important. In the PDFs provided at June 29, 2016 above, there are two bellcrank assemblies illustrated, along with detailed installation steps. Note that the parts and their orientation/sequencing are different between the two bellcrank kits/designs. Looking at Fred's photo of July 2, 2016 above, the parts look like the later style bell crank design shown in FIG. O-9. Is that correct? There is a possibility that either the wrong "kit" was installed in the mount, or the parts were not sequenced properly. There are subtle detail differences between FIG. O-1 design and FIG. O-9 designs. Were chamfered washers provided in the kit? Aftermarket parts and kits often miss such details: The chamfer is for alignment. Since parts fell out, did some get lost? Can you confirm whether the kit is right for the bellcrank design and mount—or whether all pieces were installed correctly? The pinch bolt aligns the assembly and its parts vertically. The shaft nut secures the stack of parts. Once again, you're dealing with early V-6 models and the need to determine which parts sequencing applies: FIG. O-1 or FIG. O-9. The design dictates which bellcrank kit applies. In addition to parts sequencing and determining whether the replacement parts match up with the bellcrank type, you need to determine if the parts alignment and sequencing allowed the top nut to tighten properly. The pinch bolt is straightforward in its fit: The shaft notch must center with the bolt centerline. If so, the shaft aligns vertically with the bellcrank mount. Of course, the hardware torque needs to be correct. If the parts fit or orientation is not correct, these torque figures would be moot. Parts out of sequence, the wrong parts or kit, wrong spacing distances, all of this could add up and loosen the top nut. A misaligned (not centered) pinch bolt could also loosen. If you can find all of the pieces that fell off, measure their vertical stack height. Compare this with the the two bellcrank illustrations and Fred's bellcrank mount. Determine which parts kit, parts sequencing and parts spacing would be necessary. See whether out-of-sequence parts, improperly installed parts or a wrong stack height led to the loosening of the pinch bolt and/or top nut. If everything seems correct, and if the top nut was a self-locking type without a cotter pin, the issue was likely an improperly torque'd pinch bolt that fell out. Footnote: If the washers were chamfered, see if there are signs that they were fitted incorrectly. This could allow hardware to loosen as well. Moses
  27. Moses Ludel

    6.7L Cummins Tires and Gearing

    Holt R...Thoughtful approach you're taking...See my comments below...Moses
  28. Seems like everything kinda blew up at the same time. I believe I coulda made it work but the Jeep body owner decided to keep it,another one surfaced but that guy wants more for it than for a NEW Jeep,finances changed,the VIN bailywick seems to get more complicated every time I talk to the "experts" at DMV ,etc. I decided instead to throw most of my effort and meager finances into just making the Yota run right,go down the road at a reasonable speed and stop well. Then I'll figure out the cheapest/easiest way to keep it dry inside in the rainy season. (Probably still go with a flatbed with fold up sides though,) Speed
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