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  2. Stuart_Snow

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    I have made a little more progress in that I have the head and water pump on the engine. One of the things missing from this project was the head bolts. I was able to find a set of ARP bolts at JEGs that were reasonably priced. The Felpro gasket was put on dry per its instructions. The old Jeep shop manual says to use "perfect seal" sealer which I believe predates modern gaskets. When in doubt follow the instructions from the manufacturer. I followed ARP's instructions for use or their Ultra Torque assembly lube. My shop manual specifies 105 ft lbs. ARP specifies moving up in three equal steps to 100 ft lbs following the shop manual circular tightening sequence. I marked each bolt with a witness mark for the last two steps and didn't see any anomalies in turn radius between bolts. About midway through each pull up to 100 ft lbs I felt a decrease in the amount of force needed to turn the bolts. This caught me off guard and I'm guessing it is the Ultra-torque lube doing its thing to the pre-load. Let me know if this sounds strange. The old Prestolite distributor is getting replaced with a DUI HEI unit from Performance Distributors provided by Summit along with a set of their wires. Im looking forward to what this will do for me. The old BID unit has an electronic module that dates itself with the "Made in Hong Kong" label. I remember seeing that a lot on things as a kid growing up in the 70's but not since the British gave up control I think. This beast of an engine is getting pretty heavy on the stand and reminds me of the tractor engines I grew up around in the Midwest. I'm anxious to get it back in the jeep but need to go through the T-18 and spicer 20 first. I recently verified that the T-18 on this 77 jeep has the 6.32:1 first gear which will suit my needs. The CJ-3B in these pictures gets used as a work table too often due to its fenders and hood. I know its a terrible way to treat a jeep. Its engine is the one from the re-build guide at https://www.cj3b.info/Engine/Rebuild.html but that is another story. I'll have to start a thread for this jeep in the vintage section.
  3. Last week
  4. 53HiHood

    Honda XR650L Trouble

    An update on the XR650L, my buddy(the owner) finished putting the bike back together, which was really just installing the exhaust, battery, and a few other little things. The aftermarket cam does not have a decompression feature so he had to install a more powerful battery, I’ll have to check with him on the model. Other than that, he was really pleased with the power and responsiveness of the new engine. I have not ridden it myself but I’ll get on it att some point this winter.
  5. Earlier
  6. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Sounds challenging, Ian...I guessed from the photos that this was a one-off installation but thought the OEM approach for the one- and two-piece windshields might cast some light. So, the glass needs custom sizing, fortunately this is flat glass, something "modern" vehicles don't have. I noticed the center rib. Is that a piece you constructed? Will you cover this with a chrome trim piece? The video would be very helpful to others! Moses
  7. Hi Moses thanks for that but that is exactly what we have tried the problem is that the Apillars are narrower than windshield so with a bit of messing about & unbolting the steering column i was able to get both ends in but while trying push the center out to the windshield frame i used a little too much force & now i have to cut a new piece but i think ive worked it i think ill make a video for youtube it might help others all the research ive done it just seems like its a pain in the but & some windshield guys refuse to touch them im kind of wishing i had gone with the 1 piece now but i want the 2 piece look cheers ian
  8. Moses Ludel

    Rare Aussie1966 Willys 4x4 Pickup

    Ian...See if this helps, the factory workshop manual approach for the Willys-style Jeep pickups. Attached is a PDF with your information, see T-12 and T-13. T-12 is the two-piece windshield glass installation, a two-person job for sure. Moses P.S.: I recopied the document to make the 3rd page more clear. It's T-13 section but may have some useful tips. You'll likely benefit most from the T-12 (two-piece windshield) section. Jeep-Willys Pickup 2-Piece Windshield Glass Installation.pdf
  9. Hi Moses its been a while since ive had a chance to do any more but me & my son inlaw attempted to fit the windscreen this morning but it would not cooperate it is the 2 piece neither of us have done either a 2 piece or a willys before but we have done plenty of other vehicle without issue this all seems backwards the way the rubber is the glass has to be installed from the inside but this doesnt seem possible have you ever replaced a windscreen in 1 of these trucks cheers ian
  10. The 270 inline six was a great engine, obviously the 302 has notoriety. My late friend Jack Clifford had many drag racing experiences around the 270/302. All of the GMC sixes were better than the pre-'54 Chevrolet Stovebolts. GMC offered a full-pressure lube system with insert bearings instead of poured rods (shimmed) and dip-and-splash rod lube. Anyway, I'm obviously a 228-248-270-302 fan, their only weakness as such was the four-main bearing crankshaft. Later (1963-up) 230-250-292 seven-main bearing engines are arguably tougher. One solution: Don't spin the hell out of a 4-main bearing engine! Finding an SM420 without wear might be a challenge, the last use of this transmission was 1967, phased out by the stout SM465. (The early SM420 boasts a 7.05:1 compound low gear, a major advantage, the SM465 is stronger by design.) E-brake on the transmission (medium duty truck) would imply hard work. It's not that difficult or costly to freshen up an SM420 with at least a bearing and small parts kit plus brass synchro rings...If you find an SM420 with E-brake and good gears, a light rebuild would be advisable.
  11. Finding your way with the rolling stock, Speed! Glad you made Thanksgiving dinner on the bike...safely.
  12. This truck had a 270 and a 420 originally,but probably had the Brownie installed before the current 302/Clark,which was pretty much standard issue for the Military trucks of larger than Deuce and a half sizes. The Clark doesn't have an E brake. Since I have other work to do on this truck (slide the bed forward,bigger alternator,dual batteries,100W headlights,new clutch,re-tube drivelines and change the front yoke,build a proper exhaust system),if you know anyone who has a one ton up 420 with the trans. E-brake who wants to trade it straight across for an overdrive,I'll pull the Clark out for 'em. I don't want to trade for a worn out 420 though,it needs to be in at least fair,usable shape. I suspect the Clark may need an output shaft bearing,but it works fine otherwise and is quiet,for a crashbox. Speed
  13. Thanksgiving Dinner was about a 7;the meat was tough and the dressing was good,but not enough. Enjoyed visiting with my Sister though. Yeah,I rode the Harley over-it was raining,but not slick. On the way home,it was SUPPOSED to be snowing hard,but it was clear skies and dry roads. Not sure what the wind chill was-temperature was about 35 degrees,not bad at all. That's been about the high in the last few days,and appears the same will be true for another week,with occasional snow/rain. WONderful! =========================================================================================================================== Turns out the new throwout bearing/slave cylinder was dysfunctional too. The Mechanic got everything in place,filled,bled properly,and it STILL won't disengage the clutch. BUT-Since I have a NEW clutch set,a NEW sealed hydraulic system for the clutch and NEW flywheel,I asked for an estimate to install it. Still waiting to hear back. I expect the labor to be around $500.00-600.00,and I know there'll be no warranty. Can't wait to have it done. Once I have it operable,I think the next job will be swapping the engine in my One Ton Chevy.Having THAT done I'll have it reliable enough to run even on the freeway,though somewhat slowly.(It seems pretty "short-legged",for some reason. Maybe it's a combination of restricting my RPM's to 2,000,to reduce the oil usage and switching from the original 235/85-16's to 9.00-16.5's,) ============================================================================================================================ Used the '90 GMC to run an errand,seems to be a sound truck. I need to get the hard water haze off the windshield. A friend told me about something called "Barkeeper's Friend" he says works awesome. I'll write a review when I try it. Monday I'll go to DMV and get the required paperwork to apply for a duplicate title,an affidavit of non-use and an official Bill of Sale. The PO says he'll fill out all the papers but will NOT take time off from work to go to DMV with me to get this done. (I THINK I can still get a 30 say Temp. Permit on it at this point.)
  14. Trust you made it safely to your sister's and back. Did you take the Harley? Considerable chill factor these days! Trust you had a pleasant Thanksgiving dinner...Fully understand why you sublet the clutch replacement if it's a hardship due to extreme weather or a shop/tools challenge. Smart move if you like the mechanic and his work.
  15. All sounds good! They must have used the Clark without a Brownie as well, since as you share, it's all the overdrive the truck can handle...The SM420 is stout if your axle gearing is low enough to apply reasonable torque loads to the transmission. SM420s were abundant over the years, used from postwar through the mid-'sixties, should be plenty of them available near Elko. I'm guessing the Clark has a higher torque rating, though they didn't advertise transmissions that way when your Jimmy was built. Clark transmissions usually appear in working trucks like dumps and mixers, true medium duty workhorses.
  16. My '74 Chevy one ton is inoperable-the starter doesn't work. MY opinion is the ignition wire's either disconnected or damaged. The point of mentioning this is that I had an appointment to get to on Monday,but the truck wouldn't start,so I drove the Explorer,still clutchless. Once that was handled I drove over and filled the gas tank and a 1.25 gallon gas can,just for emergency use. Then I took it to a local Garage I trust to get its clutch hooked up and bled. I called this AM,Wednesday,to ask how it was going,and the mechanic said he got it assembled,filled and bled it and it still has no clutch function. I've asked him to work up an estimate to just break it down and do a COMPLETE clutch job,labor only because I have ALL the parts for it new. Hope to hear from him Friday. I don't wanna spend that much on the clutch job,but I need this thing done,and I know I'm unable to do it myself. I think the labor and parts costs are nearly the same,it looks like the labor will probably be around $500-600. I know they can't offer a Warranty if they use owner-supplied parts,but the parts are good quality and the mechanic does excellent work,so I'm not worried. In the meantime,with nothing to drive operable,I'll probably ride the Harley over to my Sister's place foe Thanksgiving dinner. Hope it doesn't snow more than a couple of inches-this bike gets pretty unstable in any more snow than that. Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Speed
  17. " Sure you want to give the Clark up for an SM420 four-speed? Tired of double-clutching? " I don't mind double clutching-actually I "half-double clutch",half the work. As I reach the "float" part of a shift,I just slide it into neutral and let off the gas,then as the rpms come down close to idle on an up shift I hit the clutch and shift into the next gear;on a down shift,I lift the throttle and pull it into neutral,jazz the throttle a bit and shift to my next lower gear. I actually LIKE the weird shift pattern-it kinda amazes passengers,who think it'll have its gears on the same pattern their half ton GMC does. The main thing is that I like the feel of the 420,it shifts easier and is a LOT quieter going down the road. Being mostly synchronized isn't a bad thing either. Without looking up the individual gear ratios,it feels like its ratios are close to the same as the first four speeds of the Clark,but I really can't use the Overdrive on the Clark anyway,unless I can grow another hundred or so horsepower. The Clarks 5th gear is a .85,and the Brownie I have is a .74 Over;I don't have the power,even EMPTY,to run both overdrives,so if I have to give one up,going to a 420 main box will give me virtually all the gears I have now except one overdrive. Only downside I see is I'll have to have BOTH drivelines modified,but if it's gonna be on the highway at all that's probably a good idea anyway. Plus,if I get a 420 from a one ton or bigger truck it'll have my beloved transmission mounted E-brake!!! ============================================================================================================================== I have a grocery bag of tubes and when I still had a list of what tubes the GMC radio needed I went through 'em,but there were no matches. I'll trade 'em for a set of the right tubes for my radio. (BTW-Elko High School's Electronics Class has my tube tester,they'll probably check any tubes you have for free.) Hey,I discovered Summit Racing sells H-4 Halogen headlights in a 7" round. They're around $56.00 a pair,and I can get 85/100W bulbs for 'em for a couple of bucks each.You want some REAL light to drive by for your older car or truck-this'll do the job! Speed
  18. Speed...The vintage 12V radios always needed an "OZ4" tube. Why? Who knows...In the 'sixties heyday of the 'Tri-Five' Chevy, we checked tubes at the drug store and local Western Auto where they sold radio tubes... The Clark 5-speed brings back memories. I shepherded a flock of vintage light and medium duty trucks in the late 'sixties/'early 'seventies that included an I-H dump truck with the Clark 5-speed transmission and RD406 (massive inline six) gas engine. Sure you want to give the Clark up for an SM420 four-speed? Tired of double-clutching? Moses
  19. The heater on this truck actually works pretty good;it's noisy but functional. (I think it's still the 6 volt motor;a 12 volt replacement isn't too expensive.) I need to build some defroster hoses-the originals just crumble when I try to do anything with 'em. I know I can buy a set for under 20 bucks-they're just such a pain to route so nothing interferes with their fit. (Wipers linkage in particular.) Hey,I still have that 12 volt radio that fits my truck-actually I have one from a '60 GMC LCF,one from a '53 or so Chevy truck and another one for parts, I can't remember what it was in;I'm looking for someone who can/will build me a good,reliable radio for my truck. I like the tube type radio-it pulls a LOT stronger signal reception than the transistorized junk they sell now. The GMC one is complete except the tubes are missing and the dial lens needs to be replaced. I think LMC sells that-I don't know what tubes it takes or where they go. I'd like to get that done and find an FM converter for it,the old school one that fits under the dash. I think LMC also sells the chrome speaker box that mounts above the windshield and they have an upgraded speaker that fits it. I figure once I swap the Clark 5 speed for a good SM420 and build a decent exhaust (3" pipe,Summit Racing Flowmaster knock-off w/3" in and out,short piece of flex pipe after a 90 degree,feeding into a 3" stack that extends about 18" above the top of the cab,with a straight cut end and a rain-cap,assembled with band type clamps,I'll even be able to hear it. I doubt I'll be using the 5th wheel plate anymore on this truck,so I'll attach the stack to the headache rack on the flatbed. (That reminds me-I need to move the bed forward on the frame about 4 more inches to center it over the rear wheels. I don't think I'll need that much room for the stack's clearance.) I also found a deal on H-4 Halogen headlights for this truck and have some 85/100W bulbs to install in 'em. It'll be SO NICE to be able to see what's down the road far enough ahead I don't have to worry about surprise obstructions! Speed
  20. Trust your heater is working, Speed! 12-volt heater motor conversion? 12-volts to the OEM 6-volt system? LED lights are low amp draw and very visible...Safe trip, use the gears for compression braking! Moses
  21. Closer to a reliable runner, Speed...Just in time for this cold dip, we're at 20-degrees F this morning at Fernley. How are your late fall temps at Elko? Glad you're wrapping up these vehicle repairs...Gonna be a winter! Moses
  22. Your fleet is operational, Speed! Yea...One GMC truck done, just the Explorer clutch hydraulics to go...Fast diagnostics and a ready fix on the '90 Jimmy! Moses
  23. There is not a lot of altitude change until I-84 over to Boise,where its actually lower than Elko. What I was hearing is that most of Southern Idaho is around 4,000 feet,Elko is 5,100,and there's several summits of about 55-5800 feet. Not sure yet what route will get me to Idaho Falls w/o any weigh stations. I DO know how to bypass the Elko one. Higher altitude won't bother me with this truck-I have enough gearing at my disposal to climb whatever's in front of me. Right now,the truck's needs are a fresh alternator and 5/8" belt (to replace the 7/8" belt-you can't find pulleys to work with a 7/8 belt!) I also want to install some LED bed marker lights,but those aren't as critical. Speed
  24. Having looked more closely,I discovered the manual T/C and the electronic T/C are both Borg Warner 1350 units but with different shift mechanisms. Everything else appears the same. I'm pretty sure the wiring will even fit both applications,but on the manual T/C the two switches might only serve as indicator lights. Installing the clutch master cylinder,I discover one bolt goes into a VERY hard place to reach,impossible to me. I thought of a way to bolt it in from the INSIDE,by using "clip nuts" which I'll clip over the mounting tabs on the master cylinder,then run the bolts through from the interior. I'm still not clear on the line connection;it includes a roll pin that holds the line into the master cylinder,and a rubber washer,which I'm not sure where it fits. I'll figure it out.THEORETICALLY it'll work fine. I hope to have this one done Friday before dark-I can't wait to do an oil change on it and drive it down and fill the gas tank. Speed
  25. The '90 GMC's a runner. I replaced the gas filter,which was plugged almost completely,but still no start. Next I pulled the ignition module and had it tested-it failed. I bought a new one and installed it and the engine started after about 3 seconds of cranking. Runs a little cobby,but I'm sure that's just stale gas. So far everything works except one back up light and one tail light bulb,soon to be replaced. Next,I'm working on getting the clutch hydraulics replaced on the '93 Ford Explorer I recently bought. Speed
  26. Moses Ludel

    4.2L Re-build 77 CJ-7 Project

    You're wise to respect force limits, Stuart. Interference always has a cause. It's possible to split a damper hub at its keyway from too much force. Also, it is always wise to isolate the applied force to the damper as you did with the long bolt...I prefer using Grade 5 or 8 rod stock and Grade 5 or 8 nuts and washers to pull the damper onto the hub. The threaded rod stock, threaded into the crankshaft snout first, will not rotate and apply twisting force to the snout threads. The washer and nut pull the damper onto the crankshaft snout. Load is on the rod stock threads. Footnote: Never pound a damper onto the crankshaft snout. The main bear inserts have a set with side thrusts to control crankshaft end float. Avoid pounding or forcing against this internal bearing surface. Moses
  27. Speed, I would use a Ranger pickup as the model to compare. This includes wiring harnesses and coding. A vehicle at the local recycling yard might be a helpful prototype for comparison. I'd be concerned about any electronic interface issues or feedback sensors that might cause dash light false engine or transmission codes. I'd print out copies of the wiring diagrams for each vehicle and lay them side-by-side. See where the differences and similarities exist. The mechanical concerns like shift controls should be visible in a Ranger example or donor vehicle. Anyone have comments to add? Hands on experience with the Ranger and Explorer would help. Moses
  28. You do know how to find them, Speed! This should be a solid truck, basic to work on considering the modern trucks...I'd try the fuel filter first and foremost. This is the most common "suddenly stopped running" fix for EFI systems. TBI is reliable and basic. We can delve deeper if the filter does not do it. Codes are always helpful, even on earlier OBD systems. Moses
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