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Found 9 results

  1. It has taken me nearly 35 years from the moment I fell in love with the willys jeep to finally buy a project Willys and build one for myself! Recently while browsing craigslist I found an add for a 1950s cj3b for $1,500. The pics made it look like a minor rebuild project but of course the guy I got it from did not know much of the history of the jeep. He told me it was half 3b and half M38..... I bought the jeep and trailered it home. After several weeks of soaking the cylinders I was still unable to get the F head 4 cylinder freed up. For the next few weeks I did research on
  2. Hello fellow jeepers, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my current project. I have an old flat fender that's been in the family for around 30 years that was in dire need of restoration. It's turned into a ground up, the frame was twisted and severed in the middle and the tub was all rusted out. I completely rebuilt the frame, straightened it all out and reinforced the weak areas. I didn't box the frame as I want to retain some flex. I did some extensive panel replacing and patching on the tub and built new floor pans for the front and rear. The axles are stock D44 rear and a custom buil
  3. The timing cover on a 4.2L is different than the 4.0L. TDC mark is many degrees away from the 4.0L damper mark, which is typically the damper used in a Mopar EFI conversion. Use true TDC for #1 piston when referencing TDC. If your damper mark does not match up with #1 piston TDC, place the #1 piston at true TDC and scribe a timing mark on the damper to match the timing cover TDC. This is one builder’s 4.0L/4.6L experience. He has a 4.0L in a ’98 TJ Wrangler and installed an OE 4.2L/258 crankshaft. The 4.2L crankshaft keyway did not match his OE 4.0L crankshaft keyway position:
  4. The timing cover on a 4.2L is different than the 4.0L. TDC mark is many degrees away from the 4.0L damper mark, which is typically the damper used in a Mopar EFI conversion. Use true TDC for #1 piston when referencing TDC. If your damper mark does not match up with #1 piston TDC, place the #1 piston at true TDC and scribe a timing mark on the damper to match the timing cover TDC. This is one builder’s 4.0L/4.6L experience. He has a 4.0L in a ’98 TJ Wrangler and installed an OE 4.2L/258 crankshaft. The 4.2L crankshaft keyway did not match his OE 4.0L crankshaft keyway position:
  5. Greetings, Have a 1989 YJ with the 2.5l TBI. Have had a sporadic idle, stall problem. Verified fuel delivery and injector performance, tested and/or replaced all sensors and IAC motor. Cleaned throttle body, checked for vacuum leaks. Kept looking over at the coil/icm assembly, but thought "no, just replaced those not too long ago." Long story short, tested the coil - badly out of spec. Changed out both coil and icm and finally (slow learner here) checked voltage entering coil. Constant 14 =/- volts at startup and run. Checked with my daughter who drives the vehicle and she confirm
  6. The high cost of new vehicles has its counterpart in rising dealership labor costs. Shop labor has crept up, and more consumers find themselves working on their own vehicles. This starts with basic lube and oil/filter changes, spark plugs and an air filter. Then comes the transmission filter and the cooling system flushes. AutoZone, NAPA and O'Reilly's, much like Home Depot and Lowe's, cater to a growing number of DIY customers. Expect this trend to continue. As vehicles fall out of factory warranty, consumers make choices. While the average wage for American workers is now $24.57 p
  7. Hi to all, Hoping to get a little guidance! I recently completed a rebuild of the AX15 with a master rebuild kit which was uneventful. When it was completed and bench tested, it shifted rather smoothly into all gears, except reverse. It took a few tries each time, but the reverse gear would engage and the output shaft would spin in the opposite direction with no issues once it's engaged. Having read a lot about difficult shifting just after a rebuild, we thought little of it and installed it in the car. Now, we are still having the same issue, but worse. The transmission won't
  8. Ok, got my subscriber membership now. So, after not doing much with the jeep the past couple winters due to my snowbike hobby I jumped back in yesterday. I have to reassemble the front axle and clean the rear axle housing. I ran into trouble with the new front wheel studs that came with my new wheel bearing hubs. There is a shoulder behind the knurled section that would not allow proper press-on fit. The jeep parts vendor sold me the wrong studs it appears. Napa was able to look up studs for a scout and I was able to look at one to confirm it will work. A second problem I found was my ne
  9. I was wondering if anyone could give me a conservative estimate of what a running, driving, and rusted out 2005 Jeep Liberty is worth parted out? I've been told not even to expect "Wholesale" price because it's uninspectable, that's here in Vermont though, so I don't have a clue what it could be worth in an area where the value is not in a driver, but parts car. Good engine, transmission, transfer case, etc... The "Salvage Yards" are paying scrap prices for vehicles no matter the condition these days, and $150.00 isn't going to get it when the engine alone is worth more than that.Prices i
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