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jordan89oak

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  1. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses! It has been a while since I posted, but no major updates. I had to re-clock the distributor and adjust the Weber card. I haven't tried firing it since I did that, but I did pick up a replacement tank (phenolic 20-gallon tank) and installed new valves, valve seals, and sending unit. The 4.0 motor I dropped in sounds good, even when the timing was off. If anybody does a similar swap in the future, use the older 4.0 intake manifold, as the newer "shoehorn" intake gets very close to the brake booster. Honestly, I wish I would have just LS swapped it from the beginning. At least a 5.3 LM7 motor with the AX15 transmission that I have sitting in the garage. Keep the motor stock and MPGs wouldn't be too bad. Emissions are an issue, but it would be less headaches. I'll hopefully have some updates within the next week or two.
  2. jordan89oak
    I don't think I can post a direct link, but I purchased it off of ebay. The seller/store is "The Backyard Scrapyard," formerly known as "ecdezz." I don't see the adapter listed in his ebay store, but the seller was great. We exchanged a few messages to improve on the design. He may be willing to make you an adapter.
  3. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses, Thank you for the helpful information. The needle and seat were within spec. When I opened the top of the carb, the bowl was empty. I hadn’t started the engine in a few days. I realized that the mixture screws were out too much. I’m going to pick up a set of new spark plugs and give it a try. As for the filter, that’s exactly how I am running it. It is the three-pipe filter. The fuel pump in the rear also has a filter. The gas cap is new. I’ll have to check for proper sealing there. I’ve tested two different regulators and they both show around 1.5 to 2psi of fuel pressure. I do remember you mentioning these issues when I first got the Weber carb. For the price, you’d think they would run better. I should’ve, and maybe will, go with a Ford carb like the rest. I’ll key you updated on the progress. Thank you Moses.
  4. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses, I didn't see your last message, but I have been doing some axles that have paid for the tool already. It has definitely been a great tool to have and makes setting things up a breeze. Once again, this CJ7 just doesn't want to run though. I went to turn it on two weeks ago (setting timing) and a bunch of black smoke kept coming out. There was a raw fuel smell coming out of the exhaust (open header). I pulled the plugs and saw that they were black and covered in fuel. I was worried it was oil, but it wasn't. It's strange because my fuel pressure gauge was reading about 1psi, and I tried to adjust the regulator, but nothing changed. I changed the regulator and bought a fitting to put the gauge inline with the fuel line. The pressure would not go up much. This was even after adjustment to the regulator. I'm using a carter P60430 fuel pump. So, I checked the float and cleaned the plugs. The float checked out within spec. I turned the Jeep on, and got a bit of smoke that kind of went away. I didn't get to set the timing the last day I worked on it, but I'm hoping to be able to work on it this weekend. I've also ordered a new front driveshaft since the old one ended up being short after I installed the lift kit. There is still work to be done. Hopefully I can get this CJ squared away and running right soon.
  5. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses, Thank you for the helpful tips and advise. Being that this will be the first time that I do something like this, any and all advise is much appreciated. As for the pinion depth tool, I went with the Yukon pinion measuring tool. Purchased it directly from the Randy’s website. They had an incredible deal going on that was too good to pass up on. The tool was still a bit pricey, but it will come in handy whenever I do gears or axle builds in my other cars. I will definitely let you know how things go with the tool. The dial gauge torque wrench should get here tomorrow.
  6. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses, It's been a long time, but I'm coming back for an update. Although I still haven't been able to drive the Jeep, it is running now. I got busy with a few other things and let the Jeep sit for a few months. I finally did some work yesterday and got to fabricating a throttle cable bracket. Being that the booster was in the way, I had to figure out a way to fab a bracket that would keep the throttle cable from interfering with the booster and steering components. Since I had the original throttle bracket off of the replacement 4.0, I used that. I ended up using half of that bracket and it worked great. As you can see from the pictures, the cable will drop down from the top. There is enough hood clearance as well. I still have to cut the cable to the correct length, but the hard part is now done. I've also created more work for myself now. I picked up a Spartan helical LSD for the D30 and a Yukon LSD for the D44. I'll also be installing a set of 4.56 gears on the Jeep. This will be my first time doing this. I'm waiting on my dial torque wrench and pinion depth tool to get here (should be here by the end of the week). I'll also be making my own setup bearings. I hope that my throttle bracket solution is of help to folks in the future. I looked everywhere for a solution to this problem, and finally decided to try it on my own. Sorry in advance for my horrible picture editing skills. I used those two pieces to make my adjustable bracket.
  7. jordan89oak
    Thank you! I tried to get rid of the fuel injectors and rails, but I just couldn't find the correct expansion plug size. I tried many different sizes, but nothing worked. I will have to see what I do about the tank. I have to double check to see where exactly it is leaking from. It leaked whenever I raised the rear up, so it may just be the seals around the valves. The tank has to come down either way since I have to mount the new rear bumper. The engine sounds great! I just have to weld up the exhaust system. I also have to find a way to squeeze a throttle bracket to make things work, but I had to have the power brakes and hydraulic clutch. You have been lots of help throughout all of this with lots of great advice. Thank you so much!
  8. jordan89oak
    Hi Moses, Happy New Year! I'm back with an update on the CJ7. I finally got to a point where the Jeep was able to fire up and idling for a few seconds. Unfortunately, a few things came up that keep disappointing me. The biggest upset of it all was the plastic 21 gallon fuel tank. Due to the previous owner drilling a hole through one corner of the tank and another crank in the bank from, what I'm guessing, a rear collision, I tried fixing it. I soldered the plastic tank using a plastic solder iron. I thought it was fixed, even after checking for leaks, but I discovered that it was still leaking when I jacked the Jeep up from the rear this afternoon. I looked for a replacement, but only come across used plastic tanks that cost $350+. Needless to say, this is a huge disappointment. This Jeep just continues to disappoint every step of the way. I'm thinking about going the cheap route and installing a fuel cell. At least I got to fire it up before discovering the fuel leak. I turned it on with just the header and no exhaust system. I just wanted to hear the engine run to make sure I did things correctly. There was an issue where the electric pump was not activating, but I found another 12v ignition source that got it running. I also initially forgot to prime the fuel system, but right after I fixed these things, it fired right up! I got the brakes and hydraulic clutch bled, and they feel great. Unfortunately, I did not try shifting it into gear due to me having to shut it off because of an oil leak from the valve cover. I have the wrong valve cover gasket on there. I thought it would work, but it didn't. I also discovered that the front driveshaft is too short due to the 4" lift. Even after installing the transfer case drop kit that came with the lift-kit. For now, I have set the Jeep aside and will continue it in the future. At least now I know that the '04 Grand Cherokee engine works, and that it will run under its own power.
  9. jordan89oak
    I'm back for a quick update. I picked up a dual fan contour setup for the CJ and finally got around to installing and doing the wiring. The contour fan fits like a glove and was really easy to mount. After doing some research, I picked up a Volvo fan relay, BMW dual temp fan switch, and connectors. This really was a trip trying to sort all of these different components from different manufacturers, but it will make for a much cleaner installation. As for the hydraulic clutch conversion, I have mocked things up and got the pedal drilled out for the clutch master cylinder rod. I still have to do some trimming on the pedal to get things aligned perfectly, but things are moving and seem to be going well. I used all OE style components for the conversion. The only thing that I will have to tweak a bit will be the hydraulic line, which is not much. When I purchased the Jeep, the previous owner threw in a Warn M8000 winch that had a stuck engagement lever, but he said worked well. I got to taking it apart yesterday to inspect the internal gears and components for a proper rebuild. Before actually installing new parts and seals, I cleaned all of the internal parts up and greased things up for a quick test. The winch works in both directions, so a proper rebuild is in order. I was really excited to see it work, as it sure will save me hundreds of dollars. Plus, a Warn winch on a Jeep just goes hand in hand. One thing I just can't seem to find for the winch are the correct decals. I also installed a new winch plate in the front that is ready for the winch to go on after rebuild. As for the power steering system, I got around to installing hoses and was worried that I would not be able to make things work, being that I am using the pump out of the Grand Cherokee. I ended up using both of the original CJ7 hoses (pressure and return) and just ended up bending the pressure line to make it work. As for the cooling system, I wasn't able to find much information, as people just aren't going with these newer 4.0 blocks for their builds. So, I was stuck trying to figure out the correct lower radiator hose to use for this, as the '04 4.0 water pump has a different outlet from the older 4.0 engines. I went with the '04 Grand Cherokee lower radiator hose. It's not fully installed on there yet, but trimming will be necessary due to it being a bit longer. I hope that this is all of help to folks in the future who may be tackling a project like this.
  10. jordan89oak
    Ok, I'm back for another update on the Jeep. I finally got the suspension figured out and have gone back to working under the hood of the Jeep. My CJ is a manual brake Jeep, so I purchased a conversion dual diaphragm booster/master combo. I mocked things up today and found some interference issues, so now I will have to figure this out. Being that the intake manifold on the '04 4.0 sticks out further, I will have to figure out a way to connect the throttle bracket and make things work. Another thing I did was to drill the hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder, as I am converting over to a hydraulic setup. I have the clutch master cylinder mocked up and have marked the pedal to drill a hole for the pin. Maybe if I would have gone with the slim single diaphragm 9" booster would have more room for the throttle cable. As you can see from the pictures, the dual diaphragm booster sticks out too much and barely clears the air filter assembly, and really leaves little room around the throttle bracket area. I tried turning the carb, but the linkage hits the booster and won't even sit on the adapter. I might just have to get a new manual master and install it just so I can finally drive the Jeep.
  11. jordan89oak
    Well, I finally got the front suspension and all new brakes installed in the front. Thank you for the advise on the pitman arm, I managed to get it off thanks to your advise. It’s standing on its own now, and I still have to torque the suspension components. I noticed that the passage side tire Rod is not straight, so I’ll have to assist that, but the suspension is on. Next things after torquing the suspension is the fuel tank. I had it up last time, but hasn’t noticed that the steel tub is dented in the bottom, pushing the plastic tank up, so I’ll have to pull the tank out of the tub and straighten it out. The electric fuel pump is mounted and wired. I purchased a power brake conversion booster and master, so that’ll be going in too. I also installed a dual stick setup for the Dana 300.
  12. jordan89oak
    Great information here Moses. I was also asking because the Rugged Ridge heavy duty tie rod/drag link instructions mention something about it not working with some stock Jeep wheels. I've read about some folks flipping the tie rods to remedy the issue. I placed an order for three inserts, but will try fitting them in the original location with the wheels on. If that works, I will just go that route and install the 4" drop pitman arm that came with the lift kit. If that doesn't work, I will probably flip them. I just finished installing both knuckles and painted the driveshafts. I will put the brakes and everything back together tomorrow. I'm converting it over to power brakes, but the booster and master don't get here until next week, so I will work with what I have. I hope to get done with the suspension work this week (fingers crossed). As for actually getting the Jeep started, I have to finish the fuel system and do the exhaust. I will update my other thread with this information when I get all of that information gathered. Thanks Moses!
  13. jordan89oak
    Hey Moses, What is your opinion on doing a "tie rod flip" modification? I've read through a number of forums on the subject, and seems like you would gain some clearance, and some even say gaining back steering radius, on lifted Jeeps. I ask because I will be installing the Rugged Ridge heavy duty tie rod and drag link, and thought that it might be something to look into. I know that some choose to go with reaming the top, and some go with inserts.
  14. jordan89oak
    Thank you for this great advise Moses! I have the puller on the left and slightly bent one of the prongs trying to get the pitman arm off. I am going to try it again, along with the pry bar, and if that doesn't work, I'll try the conical type puller.
  15. jordan89oak
    Hey Moses, Thank you for the clarification on the gap issue. That’s a relief, and good to know! As for the pitman arm, the lift kit came with the correct pitman arm. I haven’t gotten to installing the new one because the old one is on there good. I might have to apply some heat to it. I left it soaking with PB Blaster. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try something else. I’ve got upgraded heavy duty steering linkage to go with it, as well as a dual steering stabilizer system from Skyjacker. Hopefully it’s smooth sailing from here because I really want to take this Jeep out for a drive with the family. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks Moses!
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