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About jordan89oak

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    Advanced Member

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    Oakland, CA
  1. Hey Moses, I’m back for a quick update. Unfortunately, I still haven’t fired the Jeep up, but I am close to it. Midterms have kept me busy, so very little time for the Jeep. Thank you for the tip on where to get the power for cranking and hot at when on. I will definitely be running a relay (Painless# 50102), and that will require a switched power source. The painless fuel pump relay kit is great, as the wires are clearly labeled as to where they go. There will be a switch that will allow me to prime the fuel system before starting. I read in a Hot Rod article that a reading of 6 psi
  2. Hey Moses, I'm back with an update. I was hoping to have the Jeep up and running this passed weekend, but I wasn't able to make it happen. I did work on the Jeep, but I did not get to the wiring part of things. I did some research on the wiring, and have prepped the wiring for the fuel pump and the external voltage regulator. I picked up information from Hot Rod Magazine to wire the fuel pump off of an oil pressure switch (Part# PS64), which is pictured bellow. As for the voltage regulator, alternatorman has good videos on YouTube on how to wire this system up. The attached picture (from
  3. Quick update, I just got the alternator and the Durango 160amp alternator drops right into place (4.0 Grand Cherokee bracket). I’m hoping to install the new timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, water pump, etc. this weekend. I’ll hopefully get the wiring done as well. I’ve already mounted the new HEI distributor into place. For the oil pan, I was planning on using the 4.2 pan, but I’m going to stick with the 4.0 pan instead. I’m trying to figure out the wiring for the alternator. These newer alternators use a 4 gauge cable directly to the battery, I believe. The original CJ7 us
  4. I’ll definitely be going with the FelPro gasket. I’ll keep things updated here for future reference. Thanks Moses!
  5. I'm not sure if anyone has successfully adapted an earlier HESCO EFI conversion kit on a newer engine like this. I read about folks adding the newer style intake manifolds on their older 4.0 engines and making it work with their existing engine management systems, so it might work. Most of the electronic components and sensors are on the intake itself. I still haven't picked up the alternator for the Jeep, but I am going to try to get the other things mounted up while I get that. I will be using the CJ7 oil pan, so I have to swap the pickup tube and oil pan as well. I know, I should have
  6. By the way, if you plan on using ARP head bolts like I did, the metal valve cover will not work. You may be able to grind a bit off of the valve cover to clear, but the plastic valve cover from the older 4.0 will work.
  7. Well, late night update. I just got done messing around with this engine. I did a test fit first and found that the engine dropped right in. As previously mentioned, I was worried about the motor mount modification that I did to the block not working, but everything worked out. After mock-up, I went ahead and mounted the new flywheel and clutch, mated the engine and transmission together, and drop them into the Jeep. I’m so happy that the engine drop into its new home! Now that those things are in I have to pick up the new alternator and start putting the accessories together. I
  8. I had to cut the top motor mount nub (as seen in the picture), and there’s a some space between the block and the mount for the bottom bolt holes. It’s not much, and I’m hoping that things will line up and I can just put a thick washer in between.
  9. Picture of the massaged header. I was going to go with the stock exhaust manifold with the flex pipes at the 1 and 6 primaries, but it's a good thing I didn't. They would not have fit, as that is the area where I had to make a dent on the header. I went with an ATP header, which I got at an amazing deal ($19), so I picked two up. I am going to run a flex pipe right beneath the collector in an attempt to avoid cracks.
  10. Hey Moses, I'm back for a quick update on the project. So, I mocked things up yesterday. I am using the earlier 4.0 header with the '04 intake. It was not exactly a direct fit, so I had to massage the #6 primary. I'm also having to run a spacer in between the car and the actual adapter. Even with the spacer in place, the throttle linkage is binding on a raised casting number. That's not an issue, I will grind that off and everything should clear. I haven't found plugs for the injectors, being that I will not be using them. The quickest solution that I see for this is just keep them,
  11. Hey Moses, Yes, I am going to give the '04 4.0l engine a go. Unfortunately, the Weber carb does not have a CARB number that will pass inspection. As long as my emissions are good, the visual should not be an issue. I will do everything that I can to make it all look "original," with the exception of an EGR system. The reason I was initially not able to use this newer engine was because the use of the 4.2 intake would not have allowed me to mount the power steering pump, as the threaded pads are missing, and the '04 water pump does not have the mounting tabs for the power steering s
  12. Hey Moses, I am back with an update. So, I was online searching for LS swap components when I came across an the 4.0 efi to carb adapter that I had been looking for all of this time! I know an LSX swap would have been great, but this will save me a lot of time and money. The adapter is very well machined. I am going to have to use the original spacer that came with the carburetor, as the throttle linkage hits the adapter plate. This will now allow me to run all of the Grand Cherokee accessory components. I have to test fit the engine to make sure that it will drop in, being th
  13. I guess I find the LSX swap easier because I am familiar with it. There is just SO MUCH cross configuration within the LS platform. I was a little disappointed with the redesign of the 4.0 in the Grand Cherokee engines. There also seems to be more support for GM ecm programing than for Jeep ecms. I do have the needed fabricating equipment (MIG and TIG), as well as HP tuners for computer programing.
  14. Hey Moses, This was definitely a disappointing discovery, but I guess I can't be too mad about it since I initially thought I was only getting the transmission for the price that I paid for it ($250). I had already made plans to turn this into a budget 4.5L stroker, and was just about to go and get the 4.2 crank and rods machined and checked. The LS that I have sitting on the stand is a complete engine with computer and harness. I even have the DBW peddle that goes with it. I thought it would be easier to drop in a 4.0, but it looks like an LSX swap might be the best thing to do. It
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