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The timing cover on a 4.2L is different than the 4.0L. TDC mark is many degrees away from the 4.0L damper mark, which is typically the damper used in a Mopar EFI conversion. Use true TDC for #1 piston when referencing TDC. If your damper mark does not match up with #1 piston TDC, place the #1 piston at true TDC and scribe a timing mark on the damper to match the timing cover TDC. This is one builder’s 4.0L/4.6L experience. He has a 4.0L in a ’98 TJ Wrangler and installed an OE 4.2L/258 crankshaft. The 4.2L crankshaft keyway did not match his OE 4.0L crankshaft keyway position: “I had stashed away parts from the 4.2 that I stole the crankshaft from to build my Stroker. Last night I dug out the timing cover and put it next to the one from my 4.0. Now I see why the notch in the harmonic balancer doesn’t line up with the tab on the 4.0 cover! The woodruff key slot on the 4.2 is cut in a different location than the key slot on the 4.0 course crank… This might be one for the forums- probably most people never even look since the timing marks won’t be used to set distributor timing but some people like me will be very confused if they do.” 4.2L Crankshaft with 4.0L damper and timing cover. 4.2L timing cover (top) and 4.0L timing cover (bottom). Know which parts you have and always index the timing cover TDC mark with precise TDC of #1 piston. Moses
First, I'm not sure what I would do without your books. I'm a newbie mechanic restoring my own 82 CJ7. I have your Jeep Rebuilder's Manual and I have searched many forums. The complete MPFI kit came with my 82 CJ. I'm lucky because the kit was worth more than I paid for the entire Jeep. With some help from a mechanic friend the install of the MPFI has been pretty straightforward. I still have some factory wiring issues (what I need to use, what I don't) but I'll go slow and steady and figure out. My question is mainly around what needs to be connected to the charcoal canister that came with the kit and where. The "carb" port is sealed on my canister. So I have a larger vent looking port on the left just like the one below. As this picture shows can I connect vent to fuel tank on this larger port? What connects to the smaller black fitting on the top. Right now my single rail fuel pressure regulator is connected just to manifold vacuum. Do I need to use the split fitting and connect this to the canister as well? I also have a connection that comes from the new air intake that I'm pretty sure goes to the canister. My last question is do I need this line from the kit and and if so, where does it go? I really have searched and found many photos and have your instruction from Jeep Restorers Bible and Mopar MPFI instructions but they only show one end. I'm so new to this I need the connect this to this. Thanks so much! Michael
I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
Happy Thanksgiving to all! I've posted before that my CJ-7 has a Cherokee 4.0L in it, but it's not really that simple Here is the history as I know it or can guess from some evidence: 1. Originally a 258/4.2L straight six with the FrankenCarb--this one was sold in California, so I'm sure it was extra-special. 2. MOPAR EFI kit added to the 4.2L. It seems this addition happened sometime after 2000, as the MOPAR labels for the kit have a 2000 copyright on them. I learned from the shop that did most of the work on this Jeep that the lady I bought it from purchased it sometime around 2001. It was owned by 1 family prior to that (1983-2000?). I suspect the Skyjacker lift and sketchy paint job happened about the same time to make it ready to sell. 3. The 4.2L finally gave up in 2014. This engine was replaced with a junkyard 1995 Cherokee 4.0L last May; engine had about 155K on it at that time. I never really knew which version of the MOPAR EFI kit I had, OBDI (with fuel return line) or OBDII from the newer models (returnless). There was also the option that they pulled a complete 1995 engine including the EFI and junked the old MOPAR kit. I just didn't really know. I've done some more research and taken some pics to see if anyone can confirm what I've come to believe. It seems like my system matches the pictures I've seen of a single rail EFI system. That would mean it is: 1. 1997 and newer 2. Returnless 3. OBDII I mostly ask these questions because I've been looking at performance options for whenever I'm forced to rebuild this engine. I really think I want to leave a Jeep engine in there, as opposed to a small block Chevy, for example. It seems like most systems (supercharger, programmers, etc.) are dependent upon the OBDI VS. OBDII distinction. With a 1995 engine, I wasn't sure which items I should be looking at. Assuming this is a 1997 and newer-style EFI kit, I assume I should only look for performance items for the newer model engines, correct? I don't think there was much other than heads (I have the supposedly better casting) that varied in those mid 1990's engines, other than the EFI/PCM. 1. Can I conclusively say this is a returnless/1997 and newer EFI kit? 2. Is this the OBDI/OBDII port I'm showing in the picture? It is about 8" down the main wire harness from the MOPAR EFI kit PCM. Regards, Case