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Found 7 results

  1. So I picked up a 2004 XJ 4.0 engine and didn't realize the many differences in the block casting from the older 4.0. It wasn't until I started doing more research on the engine that I realized this, but I did get the engine for a really good price that was too good to pass up. Being that I've already put in some time into this engine, I HAVE to make it work. The first issue that I ran into was with the driver's side motor mount pads on the block. on the older 4.2 and 4.0 engine, the top bolt pad is pushed back about half an inch, and on the XJ 4.0 they are flush with each other. So, I went ahead and cut the top one off about 1/2" and that left enough thread for the bolt. There is some space between the mounting plate and the block, but not much, that I am going to use washers. I'm hoping that will work. For the passenger side, I had to do some cutting on the CJ7 motor mount brackets and a bit on the block due to block webbing interference. Now, the next issue that I am facing is with serpentine accessory drive. I wish that I could just use the 4.0 accessories, but being that I did not get the harness and computer with the replacement 4.0, I am going with the carb setup. So I will be using the 4.2 intake. Unfortunately, the water pumps are different. The older 4.0 engines have the built-in power steering bracket on the pump, so it's not like I could go this route to solve my power steering issues. This is starting to be somewhat of a headache because it is turning out to be a much more involved swap than I thought. I wish that I could just go the fuel injection route and be done with these issues. This would allow me to use all 4.0 accessories without an issue.
  2. I have a question about an article I read on 4WDMechicx.com when researching converting a CJ to TBI. The article can be found here: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/MSD-Atomic-EFI-for-Jeep-4.2L-Inline-Six?r=1 I have a 1980 CJ-7 with the 258 I6 engine. It was sold to me non-op and is missing some emissions parts that are hard to find and expensive. Going in my plan was to convert it to fuel injection to increase reliability, economy and make emissions testing easy. I found the above article that was very informative and well written. I dug into the details and have some questions. The article points to emissions testing in California a few times and I was hopeful that I could also put a MSD Atomic system on my Jeep. This was appealing to me because I put a MSD billet distributor, 6A spark control and a Blaster 2 coil on the Jeep. The Atomic system would work hand-in-hand with my ignition system and allow me to program advance curves. When I dug into the details I found that the Atomic system that was installed was part number 2900. Here is a direct link: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/atomic_efi/atomic_efi_tbi/parts/2900. This appears to be an older system than the Atomic 2 offerings but is the only fuel injection system sold by MSD or Holley that is California legal. Scroll down to the Emissions heading and you'll see that is is legal under C.A.R.B. EO #D-722. I Googled EO D-722 and found this page:. http://ww2.arb.ca.gov/sites/default/files/classic/msprog/aftermkt/devices/eo/d-722.pdf. In reading the EO I see that the vehicles that this system is authorized for road use in California are GM vehicles made in 1987 and earlier with a V8 engine. California Executive Orders call out the specific vehicles the subject part can be used on. For example I have a MSD 8516 billet distributor on my Jeep. This is the EO for that part:. https://arb.parts/Executive-Order/D-40-39. If you scroll down to Exhibit A it lists 1993 and older AMC inline 6 cylinder engines under the 8516 part number. The point is the EO lists applications for each EO and if a vehicle is not called out in the EO the part is not legal for use on that vehicle. Getting back to the Atomic conversion in the article:. How were you able to pass a visual inspection when the Atomic system in not called out in the EO? In the past some smog shops would accept a CARB stickered conversion without checking the EO. I'm not sure that is the case now. If so putting this system on a Jeep is somewhat of a gamble. If a smog tech reads the EO the vehicle will fail. In that case the TBI will need to be replaced with a compliant part. The cost of the Atomic system is high - too high for me to risk a failing visual inspection. It seems to me that the only option for a fuel injected conversion on a CJ in California is Howell TBI. Please let me know if I'm missing something with the Atomic system and CARB legality. I've researched this for weeks and don't see how it can be legally used on the streets of California when installed on a Jeep with a AMC 258. Thank you, Bob Elliott
  3. I have a problem with accelerator lurching at crawling speeds since I installed my MPI/EFI conversion kit to my 4.2 six. I thought I recalled seeing a remedy for this in my Ludel's CJ rebuilders manual but for the life of me I can't find it. Any suggestions?
  4. The timing cover on a 4.2L is different than the 4.0L. TDC mark is many degrees away from the 4.0L damper mark, which is typically the damper used in a Mopar EFI conversion. Use true TDC for #1 piston when referencing TDC. If your damper mark does not match up with #1 piston TDC, place the #1 piston at true TDC and scribe a timing mark on the damper to match the timing cover TDC. This is one builder’s 4.0L/4.6L experience. He has a 4.0L in a ’98 TJ Wrangler and installed an OE 4.2L/258 crankshaft. The 4.2L crankshaft keyway did not match his OE 4.0L crankshaft keyway position: “I had stashed away parts from the 4.2 that I stole the crankshaft from to build my Stroker. Last night I dug out the timing cover and put it next to the one from my 4.0. Now I see why the notch in the harmonic balancer doesn’t line up with the tab on the 4.0 cover! The woodruff key slot on the 4.2 is cut in a different location than the key slot on the 4.0 course crank… This might be one for the forums- probably most people never even look since the timing marks won’t be used to set distributor timing but some people like me will be very confused if they do.” 4.2L Crankshaft with 4.0L damper and timing cover. 4.2L timing cover (top) and 4.0L timing cover (bottom). Know which parts you have and always index the timing cover TDC mark with precise TDC of #1 piston. Moses
  5. First, I'm not sure what I would do without your books. I'm a newbie mechanic restoring my own 82 CJ7. I have your Jeep Rebuilder's Manual and I have searched many forums. The complete MPFI kit came with my 82 CJ. I'm lucky because the kit was worth more than I paid for the entire Jeep. With some help from a mechanic friend the install of the MPFI has been pretty straightforward. I still have some factory wiring issues (what I need to use, what I don't) but I'll go slow and steady and figure out. My question is mainly around what needs to be connected to the charcoal canister that came with the kit and where. The "carb" port is sealed on my canister. So I have a larger vent looking port on the left just like the one below. As this picture shows can I connect vent to fuel tank on this larger port? What connects to the smaller black fitting on the top. Right now my single rail fuel pressure regulator is connected just to manifold vacuum. Do I need to use the split fitting and connect this to the canister as well? I also have a connection that comes from the new air intake that I'm pretty sure goes to the canister. My last question is do I need this line from the kit and and if so, where does it go? I really have searched and found many photos and have your instruction from Jeep Restorers Bible and Mopar MPFI instructions but they only show one end. I'm so new to this I need the connect this to this. Thanks so much! Michael
  6. I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
  7. Happy Thanksgiving to all! I've posted before that my CJ-7 has a Cherokee 4.0L in it, but it's not really that simple Here is the history as I know it or can guess from some evidence: 1. Originally a 258/4.2L straight six with the FrankenCarb--this one was sold in California, so I'm sure it was extra-special. 2. MOPAR EFI kit added to the 4.2L. It seems this addition happened sometime after 2000, as the MOPAR labels for the kit have a 2000 copyright on them. I learned from the shop that did most of the work on this Jeep that the lady I bought it from purchased it sometime around 2001. It was owned by 1 family prior to that (1983-2000?). I suspect the Skyjacker lift and sketchy paint job happened about the same time to make it ready to sell. 3. The 4.2L finally gave up in 2014. This engine was replaced with a junkyard 1995 Cherokee 4.0L last May; engine had about 155K on it at that time. I never really knew which version of the MOPAR EFI kit I had, OBDI (with fuel return line) or OBDII from the newer models (returnless). There was also the option that they pulled a complete 1995 engine including the EFI and junked the old MOPAR kit. I just didn't really know. I've done some more research and taken some pics to see if anyone can confirm what I've come to believe. It seems like my system matches the pictures I've seen of a single rail EFI system. That would mean it is: 1. 1997 and newer 2. Returnless 3. OBDII I mostly ask these questions because I've been looking at performance options for whenever I'm forced to rebuild this engine. I really think I want to leave a Jeep engine in there, as opposed to a small block Chevy, for example. It seems like most systems (supercharger, programmers, etc.) are dependent upon the OBDI VS. OBDII distinction. With a 1995 engine, I wasn't sure which items I should be looking at. Assuming this is a 1997 and newer-style EFI kit, I assume I should only look for performance items for the newer model engines, correct? I don't think there was much other than heads (I have the supposedly better casting) that varied in those mid 1990's engines, other than the EFI/PCM. 1. Can I conclusively say this is a returnless/1997 and newer EFI kit? 2. Is this the OBDI/OBDII port I'm showing in the picture? It is about 8" down the main wire harness from the MOPAR EFI kit PCM. Regards, Case
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