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Showing results for tags 'cj jeep'.
Found 5 results
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So I picked up a 2004 XJ 4.0 engine and didn't realize the many differences in the block casting from the older 4.0. It wasn't until I started doing more research on the engine that I realized this, but I did get the engine for a really good price that was too good to pass up. Being that I've already put in some time into this engine, I HAVE to make it work. The first issue that I ran into was with the driver's side motor mount pads on the block. on the older 4.2 and 4.0 engine, the top bolt pad is pushed back about half an inch, and on the XJ 4.0 they are flush with each other. So, I went ahead and cut the top one off about 1/2" and that left enough thread for the bolt. There is some space between the mounting plate and the block, but not much, that I am going to use washers. I'm hoping that will work. For the passenger side, I had to do some cutting on the CJ7 motor mount brackets and a bit on the block due to block webbing interference. Now, the next issue that I am facing is with serpentine accessory drive. I wish that I could just use the 4.0 accessories, but being that I did not get the harness and computer with the replacement 4.0, I am going with the carb setup. So I will be using the 4.2 intake. Unfortunately, the water pumps are different. The older 4.0 engines have the built-in power steering bracket on the pump, so it's not like I could go this route to solve my power steering issues. This is starting to be somewhat of a headache because it is turning out to be a much more involved swap than I thought. I wish that I could just go the fuel injection route and be done with these issues. This would allow me to use all 4.0 accessories without an issue. -
Mr. Moses, I don't know if you still read or reply to these questions, but I have a couple about my amc20 axle shimming. I read just about everything I could find and still have a couple questions. I took everything apart to replace my oil seals on axle shafts. My first question is what is the purpose of installing shims on drivers side only or can the shims be installed on the passenger side only? The reason I'm asking this is because my bearing race on drivers side slides in housing real easy--no pressure needed and my bearing race on passenger side slides in only about a quarter inch before having to tap it in the rest of the way. My thinking is if I install shims on drivers side, it might allow the race to spin in tube and if I install the shims on passenger side the race fits tight enough that it won't spin. Any answer to these questions would be greatly appreciated because I'm so ready to finish this project. Thanks in advance. -
I recently rebuilt an AX 15 to swap into my CJ with a Dana 300. I swapped it from internal to external slave and replaced all synchros, bearings, etc. Since reinstalling, it is very difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd gear when running. I can shift back into 1st when I come to complete stop and return the transmission to neutral first. I can shift from 1st to second and 3rd to second if I do a combination of double clutching and rev matching. All other gears shift well, and the transmission will shift through all gears when parked. I'm trying to decide if it's a clutch issue or if I need to pull out the transmission and take a look at the 1st/2nd gear synchros. The only reason I think it may be a clutch not engaging/disengaging fully is that the white strap that retains the pushrod on the slave has not broken loose after using it, leading me to believe that maybe the clutch isn't fully engaging. -
I feel like I am completely missing something here. I am attempting to replace the bearings on my 1985 Jeep CJ7 with AMC 20. As you'll see in the photo, I'm down to removing the inner race("B" in image). But I am looking at the axle shaft and tit has this flare("A" in image) sticking out which as far as I can see, there is no way I could possible get the new bearing over this flare out. All of the forums and tutorials say I should be able to slide the component down the shaft for pressing, but I just don't see how this would be possible. It seems to me I have to remove the axle shaft from the hub ("C" in image) Image---https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MyfZGH_B5jCT4d-_tzVfsTVR7ulv6LWu/view?usp=sharing Can someone please set me straight? Thanks! -
Hello all: my wife wants to relieve her glory days, so we are now the proud owners of a 1983 CJ-7. I found a lot of issues with the AMC rear end. It had a leak on the drives side that was spilling diff fluid everywhere. While I was attempting to figure out what was going on I found that most of the parts were totally crap so I ditched almost everything from the axles out and bought new parts (axles are the correct length). Now that I have inserted the new axils I am finding that my endplay is .090 with no shims installed, and I am confused as how to proceed. attached are photos of the left and right side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Tim.
