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Mike House

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About Mike House

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  1. Top pic is the side view of the relief valve housing. The orange spring and valve are installed and bottomed out in the housing. The spring is not visible. It is not protruding at all. in the second pic if you zoom in you can just barely see the orange spring.
  2. I think I found the smoking gun.... my orange 40 lb spring should be protruding beyond the housing by 21/64 of an inch. It is barely flush. I wrote my measurements down next to each spring. Spring lengths check out. It looks like my pump housing relieve valve bore is too deep. I could shim the spring or buy a new pump housing. My pump housing is slightly scored and a new one is about 100 bucks. I believe I will buy a new one. What do you think? Mke
  3. Thanks for the follow up Moses. Glad you took a look at the posted photos. I had not gone back through them yet. I did notice on the Melling pump kit that it indicates how far the spring should stick out from the timing cover. I will check that out tonight.
  4. The pic is indicating where the oil pressure gauge supply line is located. So I removed the valve covers, turned the engine by hand while turning the pump with the drill motor. I did have good flow of oil to both heads and around the rocker shafts at the rocker arms. The pressure never made it above 35 lbs. No visible oil leaks anywhere. I would think if I were missing a plug in the block somewhere I would not be able to change the oil pressure by changing the relief valve spring. Seems that the oil would take the path of least resistance and all the pressure would go to that missing plug hole
  5. Thanks Moses, You make many good points here. First off the drill motor is half inch drive 7amp 3100 rpm. I may have been a little heavy handed with the bearing assembly lube. Turning the engine over by hand is a good point. I did read about this from another source but had forgotten about it. I will first spin the pump again while rotating the engine by hand. If this does not help than I will check out that relief valve fit. It seemed tight enough that it took a little work to get it to come out of the bore with oil on it.
  6. So I have ran into some potential concerns with oil pump. I am not sure if I am over thinking this or not. Hopefully I can get some feedback. Oil priming tool showed up so I proceeded to spin the pump with an electric drill and check oil pressure and flow to the heads. Upon spinning the pump I could feel the resistance and began to get oil pressure. The resistance increased and began to drag the drill down. I was only able to get about 10lbs of pressure on the new gauge. This is with the Melling high volume pump upgrade, orange 40lb spring and the provided plat that is designed to restore
  7. Engine is in and mounts are welded out. Hung the grill so that I can position the radiator and build mounts for it.
  8. Some parts showed up this week so I went back to work on the 3B. Fuel pump eccentric, distributor drive gear, oil slinger and timing chain tensioner. I closed up the front of the engine. I am waiting to put the intake manifold and valve covers on until I can prime the oil system. I am waiting for the right tool. I made a tool but struggled to keep it centered on the oil pump drive gear so I ordered the right tool. The flywheel came back from the shop so I was able to get the clutch mounted and the transmission bolted up! Feels like progress! Once I am able to get oil pressure to the sy
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