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Showing results for tags 'wrangler'.
Found 10 results
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I have an 89 Jeep YJ with the 2.5 ltr and the AX15 5 speed transmission. I have recently replaced the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, Clutch hydraulic bearing/cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. The problem I am having is the clutch releases perfectly at time, and at others not at all. I have bled the system and even taken it to a shop and had it bled. I have even had the shop replace the clutch master cylinder again, thinking the first new one was bad. When the clutch sticks, you can pump the pedal several times and it will release. There are no leaks and no fluid loss. I am starting to think that I am not moving enough fluid to release the clutch. Note that the problem does seem to get worse as things get warmer, but not much warmer with driving, usually with 2-3 blocks of the house. I guess my question is, is there a clutch master cylinder that displaces slightly more fluid/pressure that I should be looking for, because everything is new, and again no leaks. Thanks for any advice -
I'm replacing the head on a 1988 wrangler YJ when i noticed a couple odd casting +head numbers. If my research is correct, I have a 88 head (or possibly 84) on a 83 engine block...Is this ok??? What's led me to believe this? Head #s are 3242 893. The 893 matches the Cast # that i looked up when ordering a replacement through Autozone. Though there is also the number 84 written on the block a little further down...making me think it may belong to a 1984 cj7? The engine cast # is 312U07. The other number on the engine block is 3239448. Sources online say this was an engine built on 12/07/1983. Very confused here. Can anyone shed some light? Is this engine ok to use with a tbi? Apologies if that's a dumb question. Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Torque specs on trans. Bands, have seen different specs in two different manuals from what I’ve read on forums, 72 inch lbs on front and rear and 42 inch lbs on rear. In the manuals for 32 rh, thanks -
Hi all! I really need some help here. My husband and I are at our wits end. We have a new to us 2000 jeep wrangler, 2.5 manual. Since August when we purchased it we have only been able to drive it maybe 20-25 times. Everytime we have fixed/replaced something on it another problem comes up. So with that being said here's the newest of problems: We have an engine code p0505. Idle air control valve. We have cleaned the throttle body multiple times. Along with the iac sensor. We have replaced the iac sensor 3x with mopar sensors. At idle the engine reads 1000-1200 rpms. While driving the jeep, the rpm is where it's supposed to be. As soon as the clutch is engaged or in neutral the rpm goes all over the place between 700-2000 rpm until we are at a complete stop. Once stopped the rpms sit at 1000-1200 rpms again. Any ideas or suggestions? We're really at a loss here. What we've done:. All hoses have been checked, replaced if needed. O2 sensors replaced with NTK sensors. TPS replaced, crankshaft sensor replaced with mopar. IAC replaced 3x with mopar. Still getting the p0505 code and crazy/high/erratic rpm. Help please! -
Hey all. New to this forum. I have recently inherited a 99' Wrangler with 132k miles that needs a bit of TLC. It has the 6 cyl and auto trans. 32RH I believe it is. I am working on the trans at this time and not sure of where everything goes. A little history of this Jeep. The previous owner was out trail riding with his crazy ex-girlfriend one day and and for whatever reason she grabbed the shifter and jammed it into park while they were in motion. After that incident the jeep would not hold in park. I think the park pawl is broken but have not investigated that yet. Also when moving the shifter through the gears there is no noticeable detent feeling in each position. Today I dropped the trans pan and lowered the valve body to look for signs of damage. No noticeable damage that I can see. The shift detent plate is in place and engages properly with the spring loaded ball when moving it manually to each position. When I lowered the valve body the accumulator piston and two springs came down with it but I didn't see where they came from as they fell slid out of position when lowering the valve body. My question is the placement of the smaller long spring. Does the small diameter spring go inside the end of the accumulator that goes up into the trans? I know the large spring rests on the valve body under the accumulator but have not been able to find any illustrations of where the smaller spring goes. Thanks -
I have replaced the gasket around the dist shaft, not much more that a week later it is leaking again. I used a feel-pro gasket, I have always had good luck with them. This area of the engine isn't pressurized is it? Both surfaces were very clean when I put it together. Possible that the crankcase isn't venting? -
2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ 32RH 170k Miles I bought this last fall with intentions of making it my forever Jeep since it replaces an identical one I had back when they were new. It had its engine replaced by a sketchy shop. I have been fixing things ever since. Some of the things I have fixed will be listed at the end of this post. In the interest of thoroughly understanding why this is happening and learning as much as possible, i`d like to keep this limited to diagnostics, testing, and troubleshooting rather than buying parts and bolting them on. I am well versed with the FSM, standard tools, and with Jeeps in general having owned everything from a CJ-5,7, XJ, WJ, YJ, TJ (twice). What I currently do not have is a DRB III - if anyone has one they`d like to sell please let me know. The problem: Random misfire flashing check engine light starting just over 3000 RPM and happening any time up to redline. Appears to happen more when cresting a long pass and then engine braking down the other side. Cannot feel any actual misfire. Over a long enough timeline codes will set for all 6 cylinders. No particular cylinder sets it off, but I tend to see p0306 earliest. Data includes fuel trim, TSB 09-003-03, vacuum, fuel pressure, and leak down test results: Fuel trim at idle is approximately 10% positive. And a snapshot at the time of the code being set is also usually around 10% positive. Photo attached shows the fuel trim at the time of a misfire, as you can see I floored it, light started flashing, and I took a screenshot, very simple. I have not replaced the intake manifold gasket yet, but have thoroughly checked all vacuum lines with propane, and brake cleaner. Have replaced a few that were suspect, but did not actually respond to propane. My understanding is even if this were an issue with the intake gasket, it should not affect under heavy load - but maybe when engine braking? For further proof of this, I capped off all vacuum lines at the manifold including the master cylinder, and was able to reproduce the error in first gear at 3100 rpm driving up my street. A vacuum meter (mityvac silverline) shows the needle bouncing/vibrating wildly at idle - but only within 1 or 2 marks on the gauge. This is indicative of leaking or worn valve guides? Vacuum test does not indicate exhaust restriction at any RPM level. TSB 09-003-03 - removed all rockers and verified a bullseye pattern is present. Did not rotate valves yet as I didn`t have a compressor available, and honestly I fully expected to be pulling the head during this process. Have run seafoam top end cleaner through the throttle body according to directions. Spark plugs are very clean and nice. Leak down test (cold engine): I have bad hearing, but could not hear or feel anything coming out of the throttle body, or the exhaust. No bubbles in the radiator. cylinder 6: set at 69, observed 62.5, percent difference: 9.88% cylinder 5: set at 70, observed 68, percent difference: 2.89% (was holding pressure by hand, cylinder may be lower in the bore than others) cylinder 4: set at 70, observed 64, percent difference: 8.95% cylinder 3: set at 69, observed 62, percent difference: 10.6% cylinder 2: set at 69, observed 60, percent difference: 13.9% cylinder 1: set at 69, observed 65, percent difference: 5.9% Fuel pressure: I had a crappy HF gauge but did not observe any negatives on fuel pressure at any RPM. I can retest if someone would like to see specifics. I did swap in a fuel rail with a shrader valve, this is one of the things that led me to believe the engine is a later model. Things that have been done - most of these are routine or were observed as being broken, missing, or neglected. I may have forgotten some but will update this list. 1. APP 985 plugs, removed AP985 plugs - this was done on day one. 2. Removed 180 degree thermostat, replaced with 195 - day one (the first time i drove it at the shop, didn't even have a thermostat in it) 3. Swapped in a known good coil rail from my XJ. No change whatsoever. 4. Built all new battery cables, soldered, marine heat shrink, direct cable from battery to body, and battery to block. ¹ 5. Swapped crank position sensor - not because it was suspect, but because it was BROKEN, and eventually did die causing a no start. I assumed the shop broke it when they installed the new motor. ² 6. Crank position sensor died again, 6 months later. ² 7. Correctly rerouted the belt, and installed a new one along with idler just because - this was done in the first month, did not observe any overheating or charging issues. 8. Fully disassembled and cleaned the throttle body. Noticed the IAC casting has been replaced and is not a good fit - so lapped all surfaces on a machinist surface plate, then reinstalled with aircraft form-a-gasket. No improvement, if anything the idle stays a little high at times. 9. Have done the disconnect, ground, reconnect, lights on, lights off thing at times just to force relearn (if that even worked on later models?) ¹ When doing the leak down test today I realized there is NO ground strap from the block to the head - will be repaired shortly. Edit: Added the strap, did nothing. See the last screenshot of current results. p0306 the first code to pop up this time. ² What I thought was top end noise all along was one of the four torque converter bolts riding around inside the tone ring of the flywheel. I dropped the trans to replace the flywheel thinking it was cracked, and discovered the bolt. Pic attached. Removed and inspected the flywheel, noted that it does not have the exact same tooth count or tone ring setup as the autozone replacement I bought, so reinstalled. It was in good shape anyway. Used ARP bolts to the torque converter, properly torqued. Also finally got the throttle valve cable perfectly adjusted, it needed an extra click on the tension side in order to shift properly. The bolt riding in there is what broke two crank position sensors - its amazing that they still worked for months with the magnet not even attached. Additional observations: I do not have proof but it almost feels like the misfire code is set at the same time the clutch fan is operating. In other words I can feel the sluggishness of the fan as well as some minor vibration at the time the light flashes. I am considering upgrading to a mishimoto electric fan and not because of current issues. I have noticed the ever so slight loss of coolant - where after 2 weeks or so it will be down to the top of the tubes when looking through the cap. It does not ever pull fluid from the reservoir, and has not dripped on the ground. Was able to pressurize the system and observe minor dripping from both hoses - going to write this off as solved. This is a 0331 TUPY head. The mileage, make, model of the engine are unknown - I am not entirely sure but it may have come from a WJ. I believe the date code reads 3 12 mx 17. Which is 2003-12-17 -
I hate to bring this up again, but I need help. I have a 1990 2.5 TBI wrangler that is killing me! I say I've been throwing parts at it, but given it's age everything I've done was either bad or well on its way. Now that almost everything has been replaced including the IAC I need help adjusting it. I assumed the IAC was in the correct position when I replaced it, but I'm suspect the PO had adjusted it when some of these parts I replaced went bad or possibly when they plated off the EGR (I replaced the egr and cleaned the egr tube) and now I find myself trying to adjust the IAC. I've adjusted it twice. The first time I was very close, but was not perfect so I adjusted it a turn more and it's acting up again. I've ready your very helpful advice, but call me slow I could use a bit more help or even pictures on how to do it the way you describe. The adjustments I made were before I found this page and I was told to just unplug it adjust it to 3500 rpm turn it off, plug it in, start it up for a minute then reset the ECU and I'd be good to go. Which is "close" to what I read here but miles away too. It did make it much better, but one more turn and it's back stalling out again. Can anyone give me pictures or better yet a video? I've hardly been able to drive the jeep since I purchased it. -
The Moab Easter Jeep Safari just continues to grow. All over town and on outlying trails, unique 4x4s abound! This AEV Brute was no further away than the next row at our RV park! The Brute Double Cab has just the right complement of equipment for the Moab trails: The Jeep JK Wrangler at its peak! Moses
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Have to get your knowledge as I am puzzled. I asked a local 4X4 shop a question -- "If I wanted to flat (dingy) tow my 2003 5-speed Rubicon, what is the correct procedure to do so?" I was advised that I cannot flat tow my 2003 Rubicon as the "gearbox does not have a true neutral position". Is that true or not? I thought that Rubicon can be flat towed. Isn't it a dead on true neutral wherein you put the gearbox in Neutral and its fully disengaged? Joe Mac
