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Showing results for tags 'rebuild'.
I rebuilt an AX 15 in a 99 Wrangler. It went back together fine, it shifts tight, only 1 problem. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is fine and from 3rd to 4th is good. I just can't get it to go from 4th to third. I am guessing it may be a ball or shift plug out of place in the rail or intermediate plate. Any thoughts? Thanks Tim
Hi, I hope this is the right forum for this. I am doing a resto mod project with my 1956 Willys Pickup. I am in the process of installing a 4.0 from a 2004 Wrangler into it with an AX15 5 speed and Dana 300 transfer case. I rebuilt the AX15 by following the FSM from Jeep Chrysler as well as a few youtube videos. All clearances are spot on. Now that the trans is together I went to bench test it and the shift lever will go through the gears although reverse is slightly harder. I can turn the input shaft by hand in 3rd and 4th gear only. 1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse will not allow me to spin the input shaft by hand. Has anyone come across this before. Just looking for some guidance before I tear this trans apart again. Also note that this was an early AX15 (internal slave) that I have converted to external slave. To do this I bought the newer bellhousing, bearing retainer plate, shift fork as well as changed to the newer style input shaft that uses the 3/4" pilot bearing. It has all new synchros, seals, bearings, synchro keys and synchro snap rings. Thanks for any help you can provide. -Chris
I recently rebuilt an AX 5 transmission, first time doing so, not new to rebuilding transmission though. After replacing all the bearing and synchronizing rings, first and second shift fork and collar and all other clips and springs necessary. I now have a couple issues, first off it will not shift into 5th or reverse ( it did on the bench) second issue is when I drove it it was very difficult to shift from 1st to 2nd and visa versa. I am thinking 1st/2nd issue would be the detents and springs in the hub assembly. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Had my 1971 CJ5 225 V6 rebuilt. Machinist decked the block 0.065 and angle milled the heads 0.125. I am having problems with push rod lengths and intake manifold fit. The machinist did not mill the intake side of the heads to match the head rotation or machine the intake manifold for the change. I appear to have a vacuum leak under the manifold. Possibly not seating low enough. The push rods also appear to be too long not allowing the valves to seat correctly. I am looking at adjustable push rods from TA Performance for the push rod problem. but I am not sure how to address the manifold issue. How do I determine how much to machine off the manifold and at what angle? I am using an Offenhauser Dual Port manifold. Should the intake side of the heads be machined to correct the angle to match manifold angle?