Jump to content

Moses Ludel

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Sorry you did not get much insight from that material, mavguy. Your best bet would be finding an actual windshield for a pattern. Perhaps you can turn up a rusted windshield or work with a generous owner who is willing to let you and your friend take measurements. You could trace the windshield and use that as a template. Moses
  2. Thanks, Scott, I appreciate the feedback on the VOD AX15 rental video. Let us know what you find and how your transmission build turns out...The AX15 is a busy transmission and has close-tolerance fit up. The sequencing of the parts assembly is critical, and correct clearances are vital. Done right, this is a great transmission with much to offer. I trust you will find the end result gratifying! Moses
  3. Scott, your gut is right. You need the proper clearances for the synchronizer rings to move freely on the gear hubs in the neutral position. The ring is a "brake" that brings the gear to speed as you move the synchronizer sleeve. In the neutral position, the rings (properly lubricated) should move freely and not bind or grip the gear hub(s). This principle applies to any and all synchromesh assemblies. On new brass rings, be aware that lubricant on the ring is essential. Otherwise, the ring will often bind on the hub whether the clearance is correct or not. Make sure you're making
  4. captain slow...I would have mentioned the NV5600, however, it has several inherent issues, including synchronizer problems. The OEM no longer supports these units. They are expensive to rebuild. I have installed the NV4500 in various applications with success, the HD version is stout and iron cased. Only a five speed but ratio options are available. The ZF is likely the easiest fit with OEM Ford parts bridging the conversion. If driven properly with the correct lubricant, the ZF will hold up. Any of these NV or ZF overdrives place a heavy load on the overdrive gear. "Driven properl
  5. captain slow...To start, the T-19 was available in close and wide ratios. Manufacturers that used this transmission include Ford and I-H. Scout and I-H pickups used the T-19. That increases the available gearset options. Here are some insights for gear ratios used by I-H. Note the I-H model designations at the left: 13427 or T-427 Warner Gear T-19, 4 Speed Wide Ratio, Synchro Low 1=6.32, 2=3.09, 3=1.68, 4=1.00, Rev=6.96 '75 & on 13428 or T-428 Warner Gear T-19A, 4 Speed Close Ratio Synchro Low, 1=4.02, 2=2.41, 3=1.41, 4=
  6. This is fascinating, Ian...Thanks for the photos and history...It's interesting to consider how many U.S. manufacturers have a global market. The Dodge 318 V-8 mentioned is a rugged engine, especially the "polyspherical" head "A" series (1957-67) in the U.S. market version. These engines perform like a hemi without the dual rocker shafts and massive cylinder heads. I have rebuilt the 318s, both the A and LAs (1968-up Mopar "small-block" with wedge heads). This is a great truck engine with a forged crankshaft and other nuances. Reliable and good torque. So are all of the I-H gasoline V-8s
  7. CUTRNU2...The 1959 Jeep CJ5 came stock with a driver's side wiper only. The right side wiper was still a hand operated wiper or sometimes a vacuum motor upgrade. (Unless you use a dual diaphragm fuel pump, running two vacuum wiper motors with an F-head 134 engine does not produce good results. The wipers will be sluggish under wider or heavier throttle.) A right side electric wiper setup was often dealer-installed. My folks had a right side wiper installed on their new 1964 CJ5. The driver side wiper remained vacuum operated, an oddity but period correct. If your restoration is aut
  8. I like your approach and thoroughness, Wayne, the bore gauge is excellent...The Jeep® Engines book was very useful, largely a compilation from the OEM factory service manuals and supplemented with racing experience. Larry Shepard at Mopar® played a large role in that book, which was released in the era of my original Jeep® Owner's Bible™, which also carried a Mopar® Performance official part number. Your measuring method is sound. For cylinders, you want round and minimal taper. Your bore measurements are not bad. The bore readings will keep the rings in alignment with minimal expansi
  9. Wayne, this is very useful video, thanks! Others can see what you're up against. An audible knock at this level, especially when you rock the wrist pin, is telling. Good job! Very pleased that you'll take accurate measurements to determine whether this is a block/bore issue, piston wear or both. You'll also know whether the piston has "collapsed", most often from overheating. No ready signs of cylinder wall or lower piston skirt scuffing/drag? The bores were smooth before you did the glaze breaking? My bet is an overheated/shrinking or worn piston, as there is normally the slig
  10. Great plans, Ian...I understand the creature comforts and worthwhile effort to share back country with our wives and families. If the curb weight is not excessive, the 4.2L should be ample. The Plainsman deserves a restoration. It's current, stock condition is unusual, this is a true barn find. I'm working on a book with a lot of historical content. The Scout 80, 800, 800A/800B 4x4s came up in a segment on the sixties. I have always had a penchant for I-H trucks and worked on a 23-truck fleet that had several fifties era 'Binders. Did International Harvester make inroads at Au
  11. Ian...I understand and wore a respirator for years. Standard test is whether you "smell paint", as you share. I did use quality respirators/filters for painting and still do when it's not practical to unpack and assemble the fresh air system. Interesting how we rationalize that a "small job" doesn't require protection. The paint and thinner VOCs are worse today than ever, and rattle can paint flashes as quickly as spray gun systems. I make an effort to slow myself down long enough to put on protection or suit up. The fresh air system is a fail-safe, especially if you have facial
  12. North Fork Guy...There is a known issue with gauge contacts/connections in the XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler. This may hold true for pre-OBD II YJ Wrangler electrics or have relevance. I did a detailed article on this issue and have just updated/re-posted it at the magazine for your benefit: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix?r=1 There is a great (albeit expensive!) test device for the kind of trouble you and Nelnoc have encountered: the Fluke 1587 FC Insulation Resistance Meter. I bring up this tool frequently, it's the ultimate diagnostic tool for e
  13. The results are great, Ian...Good equipment and system. Etch primer helps with adhesion. Enamel is easier without a clear coat. Do you use a fresh-air system for your breathing apparatus or a respirator? I invested in this Turbine Products Breathe-Cool outfit a few years ago and added an extra 25' of hose. I use 3M full-suits for involved work, the Tyvek hood that comes with this kit works okay. A fresh air supply is the only way to go. I added the Turbine Products welding helmet insert, way better than a fan, the hood insert won't move shield gas around: https://www.turbinepr
  14. Dale, I surfed for seat covers and immediately came up with this outlet. I've not purchased from this vendor, though they seem to have what you need. These are the front seats, there may be matching rear available: https://realtruck.com/p/seat-designs-southwest-sierra-seat-covers/ddi-sdswsr03/ Moses
  15. Good equipment, Ian...I like the Model 20 axle, it's actually a bit more robust than the Dana 44; most issues were related to the 2-piece tapered axle/hubs on the Jeep CJ applications. Does the Plainsman have one-piece, flanged rear axle shafts like the J-trucks? The 4.2L inline six without U.S. emission constraints should move the 4x4 around. What are your plans for this one? Moses
  16. Ian...This is going to look sharp! I like the finish on the fenders, headlamp shells, etc. What is your prep and paint process? Method of prep? Primer/sealer? Paint type? Application method and tools? Moses
  17. Xander...The comment about water in the fluid and fact that the transmission began shifting correctly (temporarily) points to the valve body, possibly the kickdown linkage. The governor or valves in the valve body would be affected by water and debris if they got past the filter. Upshifts and downshifts are each dependent upon the valves and governor functioning normally. The transmission, converter and cooler fluid must be flushed before dropping the pan. Make sure that the kickdown/throttle linkage is not binding or sticking. This in itself can cause the symptoms described. Acc
  18. Ian, this is unique from a U.S. vantage...It's interesting to see what looks like an FSJ Cherokee 4-door, the T-5 is not surprising though a T-18 might have done well with the weight package. Overdrive must have been the incentive; did Australia have similar environmental and fuel efficiency standards when this vehicle was built? The right-hand drive is always fun to see, I have Mopar parts catalogs back to 1981 and get a kick out of the "Export" details. What year is the chassis? How much emissions equipment is on the 4.2L Australia version? So, a rust-free vehicle with plenty
  19. Hi, Jeremy...Jason's comments came with part numbers. (See copy-and-paste quote below.) I did a quick search and came up with these two links. The 4897051AA is readily available from Mopar still. The 4897052AA is shown as "No longer available". I did find that number from ZM Jeep (much lower price, too). Not knowing that source, I suggest you call to confirm whether they have this part and maybe the other synchro ring as well. The price is much less costly, and you can share both rings' features to confirm whether they have the one(s) you need. There is also a possibility that Crown wo
  20. jagoldtimer...The best way to find your hookup is color coding on the wires and the plug style. Check the harness from the ignition module and follow to the plug ends. Find the plug (shape and configuration) that matches the distributor pigtail. Confirm the color coding on the wiring. The plug connectors are unique enough that you should be able to find the match...Most wire harnesses will "fall into place", the spurs usually maintain their shape.
  21. mavguy...Welcome to the forums. Below is a page from the Dodge Truck Shop Manual for a C-1-PW frame. This is not your truck nor does it contain the body/windshield dimensions you need. The information is to illustrate what can find in a factory service manual (FSM). If you can find the complete manual for your 1946 D Type, it could contain the information you need. In most instances, the factory service manual (FSM) is the best source for accurate information. I have an FSM for each vehicle we have owned or worked on to any degree. These manuals are first generation material and my
  22. Hi, Wayne...When you pushed the lifter plunger down, did the plunger's base still clear the oil feed hole in the lifter? The lifter needs a steady, unrestricted oil flow. Confirm that the plunger does not block or restrict the oil feed at a preload height of 0.080". (It shouldn't block the hole anywhere within the plunger's range of travel, but I would confirm this.) If all looks good, normal wear over time (valve seat recession and valve face wear, primarily) should not create more than 0.005"-0.007" additional preload. In the article section of the URL below, check out the illustrat
  23. Hi, Brian...The black contacts on the relay are a hint that continuity is poor. An electrical contact spray cleaner (do not scrape contacts) will help get rid of the black oxidation in the socket. It's likely that this relay has an internal short and is bleeding off voltage to ground. If at a lower amperage rate draw, the fuse may not blow. Check voltage and ground resistance at the terminal poles of the relay socket. Considering the parasitic loss, see whether the hot terminal is live at all times and not just when the key is on. This feed could be to the headlight switch or other
  • Create New...