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Moses Ludel

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  1. The owner of a 1998 Jeep Wrangler had several questions about the use of a CompCams 252H grind camshaft in a Jeep 4.6L stroker inline six engine build. His engine core is a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0L...Here is our exchange. My comments are in red: Keith M.: I’ve seen some posts, including on Comp Cams’ site, that say the head on the ’98 has different size valve stems than other years and that cams that will work on other years won’t work on this one. I’m pretty confused by what seems to be conflicting and unreliable information. Moses: I’m not clear why there is so much confusion. CompCams should know parts interchangeability and sizing. 4.0L valve stems are available in both standard size and oversize for a given engine, which may account for the confusion. Parts interchangeability spans many years. Exhaust or intake valve head diameters may change while stem diameters remain common. Federal-Mogul is a well-known reman engine industry parts supplier. We’ll use F-M as a reference source: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-2527&pt=Intake%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Intake valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-4554&pt=Exhaust%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx?year=1998&make=JEEP&model=WRANGLER&cat=Engine&engbase=4.0L%20L6%20242cid&ga=Y&back=true [Overview of intake and exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=VK-216&pt=Valve%20Spring%20Retainer%20Keeper&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Valve retainer keepers] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=HT-2011&pt=Valve%20Lifter&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Lifters are the same over all inline Jeep/AMC sixes] A concern with camshaft installations would be the rocker arm ratio. See the rocker arm interchangeability in this listing. AMC/Jeep inline six rocker arms are essentially the same with the same ratio: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=R-905A&pt=Rocker%20Arm&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Pushrods for 4.0L engines fit the full range of 4.0L years. They are available in different lengths because the rocker arms are non-adjustable. I have discussed this at length in the forums and magazine; see https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1155-42l-re-build-77-cj-7-project/ and my reply comments from December 25, 2018 and forward. Read the details on fitting the right length pushrods. Here is the F-M parts listing for 4.0L pushrods in a standard (OEM baseline) length. There is selective fit application coverage to compensate for engine block and cylinder head deck height changes, head gasket thickness and so forth: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=RP-3275&pt=Push%20Rod&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Keith M.: I want to use the 252 cam you recommend in your video but I haven’t been able to find a video with specific part numbers. Some of the information I’ve seen indicates that I need to change the valve springs if I go to that cam, other places I don’t see that. I need a timing set but have new lifters so I’m trying to get a package if I can but don’t want un-needed parts. I’m also unsure of which cam works with fuel injection as I have been told this makes a difference. Moses: Sounds like you just need the 252H camshaft if your new lifter set is compatible. If the lifters are OEM replacement, ask CompCams tech if OEM lifters will work with the 252H camshaft. Typically, the camshaft kit includes the cam and lifters, but if CompCam simply uses an OEM replacement type lifter, you could save some here. The 1998 4.0L upper valve train (valves, retainers, keepers, rocker arms and such) should be readily compatible with your 252H camshaft choice. You do need to use the correct length pushrods to attain the right lifter preload as described at the forum exchange and magazine articles. If lifters are the same, you can see whether CompCams is willing to sell the camshaft by itself. They may not warrant the camshaft if you don’t use their lifters…Always use engine break-in lube additive (Lucas, CompCams, etc.) with ZDDP to assure proper seating of the lifters with the camshaft lobes. You still need a timing set from whatever source plus correct length pushrods if the OEM pushrods are not the correct length. As for the PCM compatibility, there is the issue of Coil-On-Plug engines requiring a different camshaft than the 252H. Your engine is not C-O-P, it has a distributor and earlier PCM programming. I’ve not heard of anyone getting an engine code from a 252H camshaft installed in a pre-C-O-P engine like yours. If I were to build my 4.0L 1999 XJ Cherokee distributor type engine into a stroker, I would use the 252H grind camshaft rather than use a stock OEM replacement. I have used the 252H grind with EFI truck engines as far back as a Ford 300 inline six MPI engine (1987). The 252H grind has also been tested repeatedly by Tony Hewes on pre-C-O-P EFI/MPI 4.6L stroker builds. Keith M.: This package would be fine, under specifications it says it works on years 1964-1998. But I can’t be sure that’s correct really, because of the fuel injection and possible valve stem issue: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-sk-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html If I had to replace valve springs I’d use this kit: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-k-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html In specifications it says 1964-1998, but under Installation Notes it states ‘K-Kits will only work in 1964-88 models due to different valve stem diameters” Moses: Valve springs and retainer sizes are governed by the valve stem diameter. This appears to be the reference here. Logically, you do need to match valve springs and retainers to the valve stems and cylinder head spring seats. For your purposes, you only need to use the right diameter 4.0L valves, matching springs and retainers for your cylinder head casting and model year choice. Approach the valvetrain like you’re rebuilding a stock 4.0L engine. Choose replacement parts for the cylinder head casting and block casting involved. Keith M.: And somewhere in here there’s a review for a kit where the reviewer states the kit won’t work specifically on the 1998 engine. That’s strange to me and seems incorrect- I have two heads, one is a 7120 of an earlier (1991-1995 I think) and then there’s the 0630 casting that came off my 1998. Both have 5/16 valve stem diameters by my measurement so I don’t believe there’s a difference. I’m assuming the whole problem with valve stem diameter is the earlier years are a different size so the later heads won’t work with the keepers and other valve spring parts that come in the kit. Moses: My assumption, too. We’re in accord here… Keith M.: I’m just trying to avoid getting the wrong cam and having it fitted to the bearings and then having to get another one. I don’t want to reuse the stock cam really, but I don’t know enough to say a different cam is worth it. This Jeep needs to idle and drive well on the street, I can’t have it be stumbly or rough idling as I will be selling it at some point soon. I do want to learn how to do these builds well as I restore IH Scouts- the 4.2 was an available engine that I think is much better in many ways than the IH engines and if I could find a way to build an excellent and reliable stroker with a 4.0 block and the 4.2 crank I’d do these regularly. Moses: Understood, Keith…I’m a Scout buff, too. If fuel efficiency is an aim and vehicle weight not excessive, a 4.6L build from a 1991-99 (pre-C-O-P) 4.0L block and head could make sense as an alternative to the 304 or 345 I-H V-8. I-H was wise to outsource AMC 4.2L/258 engines, they offered a high-torque design that tolerated emission controls better than competitors. Keith M: Thanks for your help Moses, I’ve done my best to sift through all the info out there and I just can’t come to the right conclusion without your advice...Respectfully, Keith M. Moses: No problem…You want to build a safe and reliable engine. My recommendation for the 252H grind has always been simple: This grind offers increased lift with moderate duration. More lift without increased duration means a “bottom-end” camshaft that actually enhances the idle, tip-in response and mid-range power. This cam is much different than the 260H grind. Since the 1980s, I have recommended the CompCams 252H for fuel efficiency, quicker torque rise (more diesel-like), superior idle and rock crawling tip-in stability. This camshaft raises idle vacuum and maintains higher manifold vacuum from idle to mid-range rpm. This is simply a trailer pulling, rock crawling, high manifold vacuum camshaft for optimal power at low speeds, midrange and to a realistic 4500-5000 rpm maximum shift point. It will make power to 5,500 rpm in a pinch. In your 1998-based pre-C-O-P PCM engine, you should experience no problems. The lift is not extreme and will not create valve spring “coil bind” with stock ratio rocker arms. (Valve springs must be new or in good condition and provide the proper spring rates at specified valve spring heights.) With a stroker crankshaft, the 252H makes even more “stump-pulling” sense. The gearing of your Jeep should target a 4500-5000 rpm maximum engine speed. Your single rail EFI/MPI, the 1998 PCM, MAP sensor and camshaft sensor will find this camshaft compatible. The 302 Ford V-8 injectors described in my articles will make sense. C-O-P engine builders should consider the newer grind from CompCams to avoid engine check light issues. The C-O-P PCM and camshaft position sensor monitors the OEM camshaft valve opening/closing events (lobe valve timing). The CompCams 252H valve opening/closing events can trigger an engine check light on a C-O-P engine with its PCM programming. A roller chain (Cloyes or similar) timing set is always an improvement, though the 252H camshaft will work with a stock/OEM replacement set as well. Your focus should be selecting the correct length pushrods and setting the valve timing to factory marks. This is optimal valve timing for the performance gains I have described…Make sure you install the distributor correctly, which will properly index the camshaft position sensor and ignition rotor in the process. There is nothing exotic about the 252H grind. I have installed this camshaft as an OEM replacement. The valve/lobe timing creates an issue with the C-O-P engines because the later PCM is looking for specific valve opening and closing events in relationship to the crankshaft. Let us know how your 4.6L build turns out and your impressions of the 252H camshaft performance... Regards, Moses
  2. Yea, Stuart! Sounds like you nailed it...This will be a great engine. Smart to use Lucas break-in oil with ZDDP. The camshaft lobes-to-lifter bases represent the highest friction point per square inch in the engine. Proper break-in will deliver many, many years of quality service! Congrats on a job well done... Moses
  3. Really nice work, Stuart...Attention to details is impressive, especially the emissions components. You should have the tune ironed out shortly, just in time for fall hunting! Reliability will be high for this 4.2L engine. The DUI ignition is a great upgrade. If you need a sounding board for any fire-up issues, I'm here...Awaiting your first impressions of the "new" CJ Jeep! Moses
  4. Sounds like a plan...Getting your ducks in a row. Researching the legal constraints.
  5. Makes sense...Smoke test is easier than using a vacuum pump. You can pinpoint the leak location visually.
  6. Donor vehicles are a crapshoot. Ideally, you'll find a wrecking yard with the vehicle you need. Timing seems to dictate success with finding these parts.
  7. Ian, I sensed there is a professional side to Graham Hill. He's been in front of the camera quite a bit and shows it. Nice solo job with the YouTube coverage of the Holland Track. I'll make a point of checking out the Australian 4WD Action programming... "Harry" the FSJ has a job cut out! Your outdoor travels are remote and require a vehicle in top shape—plus lots of planning and preparedness...The Simpson Desert sounds like a helluva run! Moses
  8. I installed TJ Wrangler Bestop seats in the XJ Cherokee, and they work great. However, they crowd the console and tunnel like you hint. I had to do a lot of work with the sub-frames, including fabrication of "adapter" mounting brackets to allow use of the OEM Jeep floor mounts and slide adjusters. It was ultimately a "bolt-in" after fabricating the adapters, which required welding and use of my Harbor Freight bandsaw. Realistically, lots of work but worth ditching the stock, flimsy Cherokee seats. Explore the later Toyota pickups and Toyota passenger cars. See if you can devise a suitable factory parts swap. It's always easier than aftermarket unless a model specific seat package is available for your year/model Toyota pickup. Then there's the option of rebuilding your original seat frames and having the upholstery and padding upgraded. Moses
  9. Hi, Speed...The 4.0L will swap with a major amount of wiring work, some even suggesting a dashboard change. The Explorer engine and ECM harness, a degree in electrical engineering and lots of time on your hands might see this through to completion. Your carbureted '84 Bronco II chassis raises the bar on the wiring dilemma, even for a 2.9L EFI engine swap. Here's a useful exchange about the swap options and chores. Some comments seem more valid than others: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1004706-85-bronco-ii-engine-swap-what-are-my-opitions.html Would I do it? I'd likely go with a 302 V-8 and aftermarket plug-and-play FoMoCo Motorsports, Painless or street rod wiring harness. The 4.0L V-6 is considerable gain, but a 302 would be substantially better. Improved radiator cooling and other chores, like exhaust modifications and engine mounts, would run up the tab. I have toyed with the Ford 302 H.O. pushrod MPI V-8 as a potential swap into our XJ Cherokee. It's a lot of work and commitment... Moses
  10. Ian, I took the time to play through Graham Cahill's video—twice...This is an incredible work, not to mention a great historical account of the Holland Track. Cahill has it down. I do a lot of video, and his one-man-show videography, narrative and post-production editing are first rate. He uses minimal tools: a light digital/video camera, an inexpensive drone and a selfie stick! His sets are really well done, the meals, campfire, his rabbit cookout, the steak, watering holes, the granite, on and on. Thanks much for sharing this, the aerials give much more perspective to the vastness of that country...Does Cahill do this strictly as an avocational/recreational thing? Is he producing videos for sale or rental? He really should be...The rig is purpose built, he's got the whole package. So, now I get it. When you do the Holland Track, you're on for the ride. Glad your FSJ is in good condition and well equipped. One motorcyclist and a 4x4 each 11 days make for awfully light traffic! Wow, what a great venue... Moses
  11. Quite a Jeep fleet, Ian, much variety as well! The CJs are always fun for recreational use, the FSJ has the right wheelbase and ride quality for highway and all-around use. The Willys makes a great parade vehicle; too much restoration and detailing work to risk damage as an off-road vehicle, though they were workhorses in the day. Willys handling/ride quality is archaic...The CJ5 and CJ6 will handle the beaches well. Next year's charity rally sounds worthwhile for a lengthy outback trip with the FSJ! Over the years, with moves that resulted in less storage space, we've trimmed our approach. The '99 XJ Cherokee has proven to be a tough all-around vehicle. Ride quality is good with the 6-inch long arm suspension and 33" tires, the 4.0L engine with AW4 automatic is a rugged package. I fit the axles with 4.10 gears and ARB Air Lockers, and the vehicle has worked as a daily driver and for highway use, mild off-roading and even as a moderate rock crawler. The latter has been kept to a bare minimum, mostly for publicity shots and filming at places like Moab. The odometer reads 176K miles on this vehicle, we bought it stone stock at 94K. The only fixes have been a new water pump, radiator, brake service, front unit hubs, driveline upgrades, and I just installed a rear main seal and rebuilt/resealed the Saginaw power steering gear. Hot tip on the inline AMC/Jeep rear main seal installation: Use a Fel-Pro main seal and Fel-Pro OS34308R oil pan gasket. Fel-Pro has made the pan installation a breeze with its four plastic expansion studs and a one-piece gasket. I was able to support the new gasket and even a new Dorman oil pan (good product, too!) in place overhead, starting the bolts with no need to hold the pan. (Unheard of, right?) Tossed in a new Sealed Power iron oil pump and Melling screen for insurance at 176K miles. Good cylinder seal and great bearings, original injectors, who's to complain about an MPI/EFI engine? The Saginaw gear bench build went well, you're familiar with this chore. The steering feels as new, the Jeep rides and handles well. I've owned/restored/built up a 1950 CJ3A, 1981 CJ-5, a 1955 CJ-5 (first year) and an '87 Grand Wagoneer. Add three Toyota FJ40 builds along the way: 1971(stock), 1976 (lifted/oversized tires and a 383 stroker Chevy V-8 with SM465 4-speed, and a 1978 with a 383 and NV4500 transmission...Each had its place, the FSJ was my wife's favorite. Moses
  12. Nice work, Ian...and plenty of it! These tubs are vulnerable to rust in these areas. In the U.S., the use of brine/salt on roads has taken a tremendous toll. A NE based company makes TJ Wrangler frame repair sections for repair of the exfoliated, disintegrated box frames! Body sheet metal is somewhat easier to tackle, especially these flat panels. You're doing a great job of it. Are you blasting these tubs? The challenge is seam sealing when they get dipped. I had an FJ40 Landcruiser tub that we completely dipped, and the seam reseal was a major chore. Soda blasting is an alternative these days, and it does not surface harden the sheet metal like glass bead or other abrasive blasting media. It's difficult to work sheet metal after blasting with harder media. What's the long term plan/usage for these restored CJ Jeep 4x4s? The Willys Pickup plans? Do you still get out with the FSJ Wagoneer? Any trips on the horizon? Moses
  13. Gotcha...We have discussed this vehicle over time. The rust at the front kick panel(s) is a deja vu: I had an '81 CJ-5 project vehicle for OFF-ROAD Magazine and my first edition of the Jeep Owner's Bible. It came with similar rust, though not as conspicuous. The paint was exfoliated at that location...Flat panels can be cut out and replaced readily!
  14. Great, Ian...You'll notice a big difference on the CJ-5's handling. Much more stable with that "sprint car" wheelbase! What year CJ-5 chassis? Moses
  15. Very nice rig, Ian...I'm sure this Jeep will provide years of use and fun. The only area to watch on these pre-'76 (U.S. reference) CJs is the frame sectional design. 1972-75 AMC/Jeep CJs have open channel to the back of the front spring anchors, then the frame is boxed. The combination of leaf springs with a rear anchor and the junction of the open channel to the boxed frame sections can lead to frame cracking just past the front spring anchors. Ironically, the earliest 1955 CJ frames followed the M38A1 military frame design and have forward mounted front spring anchors...The '55 CJ-5 featured in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers) was one such model. Inspect your frame, and see whether the Australian design is similar to 1972-75 U.S. frames. If your frame is intact, watch for cracks and drive with the frame design in mind. A broken or cracked frame is usually due to rocky off-road terrain where the axle and leaf springs drive a lot of force into the front spring anchors. Many '72-'75 CJs have survived without a problem while the trail pounded and V-8 models often succumb to frame cracks. Footnote: Your transmission is a 3-speed; the optional T18 four-speed transmission with a compound 1st gear ratio helps slow the crawl speed and reduces off-road impact. AMC uses a taller 1st gear ratio in many of its T18s; the aftermarket conversion uses a Ford F-truck transmission that has a desirable 6.32:1 compound low gear ratio. Some AMC/Jeep T18s do feature this ratio. One solution is sensibly boxing the C-frame forward of the boxed frame sections. (Fully boxed/plated front frame modifications with continuous weld beads leave little room for flex—and Jeep CJ frames are designed to flex. If fully boxed with plates, the use of stitch or intermittent welds will allow some degree of yield or flex.) Another solution is a "shackle reverse" kit that places the front spring anchors at the front and the shackles at the rear of the springs. The stock, rear anchor layout pushes the front axle down the road by the frame/anchors and leaf springs. With the conversion front anchors, the leaf springs and front axle trail from the frame like the rear axle layout. This allows the front axle to lift more easily over obstacles and also improves on-road handling and steering control. Here is a shackle reverse kit example at Quadratec: Warrior Products shackle reverse kit. This kit fits 1955-75 CJs and does require welding. You'll get the idea... Moses
  16. Hi, Ian...If this had been a U.S. model, it would be a CJ-6, early AMC/Jeep generation at 104" wheelbase. Engine would be either a 258 or 232 AMC inline six with the T18 four-speed or T14 3-speed transmission. Saginaw steering gear (power or manual), Spicer 20 transfer case...Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 open knuckle front axle with drum brakes all around. As a genuine and highly original Australian model (right-hand drive), what is the equipment and powertrain? The Jeep is a rare find and in very nice condition!!! The paint matches well, and restoration of the Renegade decals is unique. A keeper! What was the Jeep's history? How did it remain in such good and original condition? Moses
  17. Stuart...It's all about air volume...The Ingersoll-Rand Garage Mate is great for light air tools, HVLP painting and tire service. It hit the wall, however, when used with the blasting cabinet. Blasting takes a large volume of air and requires a big air tank. At that, even the Air Boy 23 CFM compressor will run intermittently while blasting, which is really a lot of air. The 23 cfm Champion compressor is a beast, so the bead blasting never slows down, even when the compressor is running. I regulate the tank pressure between 125 PSI and 150 PSI, the line pressure is 90-100 PSI. The body shop where this compressor resided for years actually had two large air tanks, the one that came with the compressor and a second tank also filled by this compressor. They had an automatic drain on the compressor and system, which dramatically reduces the risk of the tank(s) rusting out. On that note, I put a Harbor Freight drain on the I-R Garage Mate and need to do something similar (commercial grade) on this 120 gallon tank. I consider myself lucky to have found a big shop grade compressor in good condition. It was used plenty, but not abused, and serviced regularly. There are rebuild kits available for these iron Champion compressor units. If you could find a similar unit, you'd have a lifetime system. Mine is single phase 5 H.P. with a magnetic starter (clunk, clunk!). There are alternatives like the two-stage (not twin-stage) DeVilbiss iron upright unit that I used for years. It had a 230V single phase capacitor start motor and enough CFM for bead blasting; however, it ran at a much higher rpm. That DeVilbiss consumer unit never gave trouble despite rumors that they suck reed valves. I bought the DeVilbiss at Costco in the mid-'nineties for around $800, a bargain in hindsight! Moses
  18. Very interesting, Stuart...I have a commercial washing cabinet and am always concerned about DIY home garage practices. You're basically getting the same cleaning job done as me, although your clean-up takes a few more steps and follow-up chores. The T18 castings and gears look terrific after cleaning! Your propane "cooker" seems to do the trick, very innovative, you can even barbecue afterward to celebrate how clean the parts look...Cleaned parts look like they came from a cabinet washer! I'm using a commercial wash cabinet with a solution that lasts a long time. When the solution is no longer active, I have a commercial company pump the tank. If left dormant long enough, the water evaporates, and I can scrape the dehydrated cleaner/residue from the floor of the cabinet and simply vacuum it up with my Ridgid 1450 shop vacuum. I then pour another round of Goodson washer cabinet soap into fresh water. The system is approximately 53-55 gallon capacity. Some users claim these cabinets are more effective once dirty grease and petroleum products dissolve into the solution. I bought my Walker (no longer in production) washer cabinet new in the mid-'nineties for our larger shop; this machine has paid for itself many times over. The rotating table can support 1,000-pounds (a Cummins engine block, etc.). The table turns slowly while 45 psi nozzles spray heated soluble cleaner from all angles. I use a perforated metal basket for smaller parts, and all parts clean up well. The Walker machine was designed for automotive machine shops. The washer requires 220V (single-phase) for the 2 h.p. high volume pump, two 4500W heating elements and the rotating table. The tank heats to 140-160-degrees F, and I get away with a setting of 140-145 degrees F. The Goodson Tools PJS-50 non-caustic cabinet soap works very well for iron castings and aluminum. This cleaner is an anti-foaming formula. (Commercial pumping is needed for the toxic debris that comes from dirty parts and castings. The pumping cost is unnecessary when I can allow the tank to evaporate naturally then scrape the settled debris and pick it up from the dry tank with the bag-lined shop vacuum.) After a timer cleaning cycle, I crack the door open; all hot parts, castings, etc., will flash dry and not rust. This machine is a keeper, like my 120 gallon compressed air system. I moved the heavy washer cabinet into my smaller 580 sq.ft. studio/garage in 2009 and bought this used 23-CFM Air Boy compressor with a horizontal tank during the Great Recession: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Downsizing-and-Air-Compressors?r=1 If you do any volume of parts cleaning, these washing cabinets do come up in used form during shop liquidations and at tool auctions. Like the compressor, the mechanical condition is critical; there are expensive components that can wear beyond repair. At last year's SEMA Show, CRC showed the SmartWasher®, a washing basin and cleaning solution that will be very popular for "green" shops. See the video [go to 13:13 minutes] for details: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/2018-sema-show-new-products/. Moses
  19. Pleased that you have the low compound first gear ratio! This is a highly desirable gearbox with plenty of stamina for the fresh 4.2L inline six. Nice work and attention to details, Stuart. (Your closing paragraph is rife with critical tips, valuable to builders.) Your effort will deliver for decades! Thanks for sharing the Pro Chem tip. Interesting how effectively the solution works. You "boil" the parts in the solution? Is heat involved, or is this a cold tank solution? It does a great job and makes the work inviting...Are you able to reuse the Pro Chem? Did you pre-clean the case and other parts before the Pro Chem cleaning? Moses
  20. Helpful illustrations and comments, Stuart. Those tackling the Spicer 20 rebuild will appreciate this! Great photos, too. For those seeking detailed, step-by-step instructions on this rebuild, I cover the complete rebuild of the Spicer 20, including bearing endplay shimming, in the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers). Moses
  21. These radiators did use a shroud, Stuart. It's worth having. As long as the shroud captures the air flow through the radiator, it will work well. There are shorter fan spacers available, too. Maybe a 1/2" spacer would work better? Fan spacers are available from aftermarket fan manufacturers like Flex-A-Lite. Quadratec and others offer a new replacement shroud. This illustration should be helpful if you're looking for a used shroud: https://www.quadratec.com/products/51218_100_07.htm?utm_id=go_cmp-1786233520_adg-68197440694_ad-346566180389_pla-713667809956_dev-c_ext-_prd-25868&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERP1R-KZjCF1QKdm_qY9195D2k2kM5vzYCvYfdYqcMTWhoCokXw_wcB Moses
  22. Really looks nice, Stuart...I like your approach, taking time to not overlook details. This should be a 200K-plus engine when you finish. Once past break-in, my recommendation would be either a synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 or Chevron's Supreme with ISOSYN formulation. This is a long stroke engine with lots of piston travel. Protect those fresh cylinder walls and piston rings, and they will deliver many years of service! Looking forward to the T18 and Spicer 20 details. Quite a restoration...The Model 20 AMC rear axle and Dana 30 front each hold up well. Moses
  23. Well, Monty, this is restoration!...Paths are not often clear, but you figured out how this works. 50/50 warm air split split sounds right. These heaters/defrosters actually work well when functional. Suggestion if the control is still apart: Put a piece of very fine wet-and-dry sandpaper on flat glass. Lube the paper with WD-40 or a similar penetrant. Work the pieces in your photo in a circular motion on the surface of the paper. An alternative is Autosol Metal Polish placed directly on the glass, use the same motion with the parts: https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2XSOKCQ8QI8O6&keywords=autosol+metal+polish&qid=1557407568&s=gateway&sprefix=autosol%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-9 .) This will take out any surface warp or scoring. Don't remove any more material than necessary to clean and true up the mating surfaces. The effort will reduce risk of vacuum leaks. Make sure that these mating pieces are tensioned properly to maintain vacuum seal. Moses
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