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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Very pleased to know you resolved the rich state and now meet emissions requirements, Rinky Dink! This is the old adage that just because a carburetor fits does not mean it works right. The 2300 Holley, as a comparison, was used on everything from a 266 Scout V-8 to big-block Fords! The only similarities were the series and basic design. Autolite/Motorcraft used the same approach. A 360 V-8 carburetor fits your manifold but did not have the right jetting for a 304. Thanks for sharing! Moses
  2. Frank...Have fun prepping for that retirement, whatever form it takes! Moses
  3. Skip...Steve Kramer is the co-owner of Calmini, Full-Traction Suspension and Hanson. Calmini acquired Hanson several years ago and manufactures all their products at Bakersfield. I'm not clear what their current production or stock looks like with the pandemic. When you talk to Steve Kramer, you've reached the top of the company. Calmini Products has built excellent products since the 'eighties. Steve and Randy Kramer grew their business to include Full-Traction Suspension and Hanson. We have a Full-Traction 6-inch long arm suspension system on our XJ Cherokee. The system has worked very well for over a decade and nearly 90,000 miles. I have interviewed Steve Kramer at trade shows. Here is information from magazine articles and videos: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-How-to-Installing-a-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Long-Arm-Suspension-Lift?r=1 [article on our long-arm kit] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/TJ-Wrangler-Front-Suspension-Upgrade [another Full-Traction Suspension kit] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-Interview-Steve-Kramer-and-Full-Traction-Suspension?r=1 [Off-Road Expo interview] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-full-traction-suspension-hanson-products/ [Hanson product interview ] That's what I can share...Your talking to Steve Kramer makes the best sense. Moses
  4. Frank...The NV3500 and NV3550 are manual transmissions. I was not suggesting that you give up the AX15 or a manual transmission. If I were building a 5.7L Hemi 5.7L V-8 powered XJ or Wrangler with a manual transmission, I would use an NV4500 iron case five-speed. The Hemi swap has been popular with a Mopar automatic transmission, but I agree, your rarer XJ with a manual ("3-pedal") setup is a prize. Would have preferred our '99 with an AX15 instead of the Aisin AW4 automatic. However, the AW4 is a rugged and long lasting transmission that gives the XJ Cherokee a reputation for longevity. To beat the fuel mileage dilemma with the 4.0L or inline stroker 4.6L, I considered a diesel R2.8L Cummins and the BT4. I have the fabrication equipment and over fifty years of engine swapping experience. From a consumer standpoint, the conversion costs dissuaded me from both engines. I did a comprehensive article recently, addressing these diesel swaps and including pertinent emissions legality facts. You can see my comments if interested: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Cummins+4BT+and+4+ISB+Diesel+Engine+Conversions Moses
  5. WiscoJeep...The issue gets complicated: Jeep OEM 4.0L engines with coil-on-plug systems do use a different PCM plus a wiring harness(es) to accommodate the later PCM and distributor-less engine. The RIPP kit, which I checked out, is for the later JK Wrangler 3.8L "Caravan" V-6 (2007-11 engines, pre-Pentastar V-6 era). Below are Mopar part numbers for the SBEC (PCM or Single Board Engine Controller) for 1999 and 2000 model year XJ Cherokees. 1999 4.0L engines (ERO) have a distributor like yours. 2000 model year is coil-on-plug. Note that the PCMs (SBECs) are different between 1999 and 2000 4.0L engines/chassis: EP0=2.5L Engine ER0=4.0L Engine EN0=4-Cylinder Turbo Engine DG0=Automatic Transmission DBB=Manual Transmission 5 Speed 1999 XJ Cherokee SBEC: 1 MODULE, Powertrain Control 56041336AB 1 EN0 DBB 56041480AC 1 EP0 DBB Federal 56041481AC 1 EP0 DBB California 56041482AC 1 EP0 DBB European 56041483AC 1 EP0 DBB Leaded Fuel 56041484AC 1 EP0 DG0 Federal 56041485AC 1 EP0 DG0 California 56041488AC 1 ER0 DBB Federal 56041489AC 1 ER0 DBB California 56041490AC 1 ER0 DBB European 56041491AC 1 ER0 DBB Leaded Fuel 56041492AC 1 ER0 DG0 Federal 56041493AC 1 ER0 DG0 California 56041494AC 1 ER0 DG0 European 56041495AC 1 ER0 DG0 Leaded Fuel 2000 XJ Cherokee SBEC: 1 MODULE, Powertrain Control 56041632AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Export Emission 56041633AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041634AE 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041635AE 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/California Emission 56041636AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Export Emission 56041639AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041640AB 1 EN0 DBB Diesel Engine 56041661AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041662AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/California Emission 56041663AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Export Emission 56041664AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041665AD 1 EP0 DG0 2.5L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041666AD 1 EP0 DG0 2.5L Engine w/Califonia Emission 56041667AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041668AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/California Emission 56041672AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/European III Emission 56041673AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/European III Emission Noteworthy, the camshaft synchronizer that you found at Morris 4x4 Center is an OEM replacement (Dorman) and likely a decent off-shore part. The OEM 4.0L synchronizer/oil pump drives for Jeep 2000-up 4.0L engines are notorious for failing. This is the reason that Dorman offers the aftermarket part; there is a strong market for 1999 WJ Grand Cherokee through 2006 4.0L inline six synchronizer/oil pump drive assemblies. The distributor in your engine is not a "conventional" type. There are no centrifugal or vacuum advance mechanisms. Its purpose is to simply distribute spark from the coil to individual cylinders in the firing order. When the distributor is properly indexed in the block and the rotor synchronized, the distributor and coil rely on the PCM to provide spark signals. The PCM gets the TDC reading from the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Once TDC is established, the entire spark timing curve is controlled by the PCM. Feedback sensors on the engine and in the engine bay provide the PCM with signals to indicate where the spark timing should be at any given time—spark timing adjustments can be made in milliseconds. There is little to condemn about your ignition. Yes, it's more involved with a distributor that also drives the oil pump from the shaft's bottom end. (The later distributor-less synchronizer assembly also must drive the 4.0L's oil pump.) The distributor drive and rotor direct coil spark to each cylinder: there is a rotor, cap and spark leads. This arrangement has been an engine standard for stock to all-out racing engines for over a century. True, coil-on-plug or "distributor-less" ignition can deliver a high output spark at each spark plug's own coil. This is a great arrangement when each of the six coils are functioning properly, which is another issue. Six coils are more costly to replace than one. MSD, Accel, J&S Electronics (SafeGuard, notably) and others make enhancements for distributor type ignitions. Be aware that even though it "fits", you cannot install a conventional distributor (OEM, MSD, DUI or other aftermarket) designed for the 1990-back Jeep 4.2L engine into your '98 XJ engine; 1991-up Mopar MPI/EFI requires electronic interplay between the fuel-and-spark systems. However, you can make your existing distributor ignition do a better job. You can bolster coil output, enhance spark cables (8 or 8.5mm) and upgrade the rotor and cap quality. If you need spark enhancement, see what the aftermarket has to offer for your existing distributor type ignition. One thing that has worked very well for our 1999 XJ Cherokee 4.0L is reprogramming the PCM. I chose Hypertech's MaxEnergy software several years ago, and that tuning changed engine response substantially. If you're curious, here are the details in a video and lengthy article: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Hypertech-Max-Energy-Power-Programmers-for-Jeep-4.0L-and-Dodge-Cummins?r=1 Moses
  6. Frank...As a point of interest, the GM S-trucks with the 4.3L Vortec V-6 used the NV3500. This is similar to the NV3550 used in post-AX15 Jeep TJ Wranglers. The GM Vortec (4.3L) V-6 and the V-8 engines share a common bellhousing pattern, too. The AX15 will replace an NV3550; Advance Adapters sells new AX15s for this purpose. Similarly, the AX15 might mate to a GM NV3500 bellhousing. (You need to confirm this.) There may be an easy way to use a GM Vortec V-6 in your Jeep. Advance Adapters makes motor mount adapters and other pieces to facilitate this V-6 conversion. A Vortec TBI V-6 or a 4.3L L-34 V-6 would be better on fuel than the Jeep 4.0L...You may be able to do this conversion with factory or recycled parts. Notably, Howell Engineering makes a GM Vortec TBI wiring harness if you consider a Vortec TBI 4.3L V-6. You would need the GM ECM and feedback sensors; make sure these parts are included with the engine package. Exhaust, cooling and all other swap related details would need address. Moses
  7. 4WD Mechanix Magazine has added a tire service section to our shop/studio. Below is an overview of the Gaither Tool Company products selected for our purposes. If you have considered tire service at your shop or home garage, you will find the article at the magazine of interest: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/gaither-tire-service-tools-and-equipment/ Enjoy the video and tire service equipment information. I will be following at the magazine with how-to, hands-on video coverage of tire dismounting/mounting and balancing with the Gaither GT12-1US Manual Computer Balancer. Moses
  8. Frank...I'm not clear on your swap engine list if you mean a Mopar RB big-block V-8, Toyota 2JZ, etc., please clarify which of these engines are on your list...The simplest swaps involve the 5.3L GM LS Gen 3 V-8 engine or the Mopar 5.7L Hemi. Yes, the hemi usually means an automatic transmission, and the AX15 would be questionable for use behind this V-8. If you're talking about Toyota engines, yes, the AX15 is essentially the same as an A150, R150F and similar "150" designation transmissions used in Toyota trucks and the Supra. Aisin is the supplier. The 5.3L GM LS is more popular and easier (relative when it comes to conversions!) to adapt. Our good friends at Advance Adapters can provide the adapters. Example: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712567--chevy-v8--v6-to-jeep-wrangler-ax15-adapter-bellhousing-kit/. AA can also provide the motor mount kit, which typically requires some fabrication work. Here is an example of how that engine fits into a Wrangler: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Advance-Adapters-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-LS-V-8-Conversion?r=1 [This example shows the 4L60E automatic versus your AX15.] The LS Gen 3 V-8 is is not only a more orthodox swap, but if done correctly, it can also be emissions legal. It might be possible to get this conversion approved at California and other states that follow similar guidelines. See my coverage of conversions and legality: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Cummins+4BT+and+4+ISB+Diesel+Engine+Conversions [Though this is diesel coverage, I devote an entire section to California emissions legality and engine conversions in general.] I have been a strong proponent of the 4.6L stroker build of the 4.0L inline six; however, fuel efficiency is never in the cards with these engines. If I were to do an engine for the XJ Cherokee, other than a stock or 4.6L very mild stroker rebuild (good for another 250K miles), I would do an iron block version of the LS 5.3L V-8 engine. High tech, plenty of power and likely far better fuel efficiency than the 4.0L inline six, the LS V-8 would take a Jeep YJ or XJ to the next level. Stock LS Gen 3 power would be substantial, and fuel efficiency would climb considerably with milder use of throttle. You and your family stay healthy, too! Moses
  9. Hunt49...Troubleshooting with a scan tool can narrow down the troubleshooting; this would be the dealership's first test. Pressure checks would be next if there is slippage or inability to hold in a gear. Otherwise, basic checks would be the wiring connectors and the speedometer/VSS issues and interface. (This has been covered extensively at our forum E4OD exchanges, use "E4OD" in the search box to find more details.) Another trouble spot is the shift switch where the linkage hooks to the transmission. Out of adjustment or defective, the switch could cause trouble. Since you can engage individual gears, this is unlikely. Unless there is a distinct code, a VSS or wiring/ground issue, I would rebuild the valve body. A dirty filter can allow debris to pass through, creating a valve body issue. When the filter clogs, is dirty or has a loose edge, the valve body becomes contaminated. If you had a very dirty filter, look here. How much debris was in the pan when you did the solenoid? Did debris enter the valve body during the solenoid installation? Review the other E4OD coverage at our forum exchanges. We have walked through similar problems. Let us know what you find. Moses
  10. Classic Jeep, Bob S...Begin by checking the fuel supply. Test at the engine/carburetor side of the fuel filter: 1) confirm the pressure coming from the pump (stock 1972 258 inline six fuel pump is 4-5 PSI at 500 engine rpm), and 2) determine whether there is enough volume of fuel flowing from the filter. Fuel volume should be one quart in one minute or less at 500 rpm using a brass Tee and fittings from the fuel line into a steel container. Make certain the fuel filter is not clogged. If pressure is okay but volume low, consider the fuel filter or sock at the fuel tank pickup. Testing requires a safe hose, a Tee, a pressure gauge and a metal can kept away from engine heat. If the problem is not fuel pressure or volume, move to an air leak. When you installed the header, the intake manifold gasket may have developed a leak. If a new gasket, it may not be sealing properly. A quick check for a manifold leak with the engine running (idling if possible) is to spray a less volatile penetrant like WD-40 (kept away from the exhaust manifold) along the edge of the cylinder head/intake manifold junction. If engine speed picks up, you have a vacuum leak. Do the same around the base of the carburetor, you may have a vacuum leak there. Other sources for a vacuum leak are the brake booster check valve (if so equipped), the brake booster diaphragm or the evaporative emissions vacuum circuit. If equipped with power brakes, the brake pedal should have vacuum assist after shutting off the engine, at least for a few pumps of the brake pedal. If brake assist requires that the engine is running, you have a vacuum leak at the diaphragm, a hose or the check valve. If these issues are not the problem source, you need to rebuild the carburetor and install a new needle, seat and gaskets. Not clear whether you have a 1- or 2-barrel carburetor, stock or otherwise. (If an aftermarket Weber or Holley, that's a whole issue in itself.) If stock YF Carter, rebuilding can make a dramatic difference if you set every specification to factory. At the magazine, I have a complete step-by-step for rebuilding the later two-barrel BBD with good results: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor?r=1. This is the later feedback carburetor version of the Carter BBD. Although the BBD is distinctly different than a Carter YF one-barrel, you can glean useful tips from the build. Moses
  11. I took this a step further and looked through a variety of AX15 illustrations and even YouTube videos. The somewhat primitive drawing below is the closest explanation for the oil receiver. This is a Mopar® cutaway drawing that I stumbled onto online, a 4WD AX15 version with the shorter tailhousing: Note the use of the oil receiver behind the counter gear. The "pipe" fits into the rear bore of the counter gear and must be smaller than the bore to enable the shaft to rotate without disturbing or wearing out the plastic pipe/stem. If you zoom into this PNG image, two things are evident: 1) the pipe fits into the end of the cluster/counter gear bore, and 2) the piece must clip into a designated locating notch and saddle at the interior of the tailhousing. Many AX15 units have no provision in the tail case to position and mount this oil receiver. Without such a provision, there would be no support for the oil receiver. Since the pipe must align with the counter gear bore, it's easy to see where the oil receiver would clip into the rear/interior face of the tailhousing... Note: Look at the oil receiver photo that you supplied. Note that the device would need to clip into a provision in the inner tailhousing/case. If this is an accurate photo, there is a tab on the plastic oil receiver for clipping the receiver into place. As for its purpose, one explanation might be that this receiver or "funnel" captures oil pooling or collecting at the back of the tailhousing and channels that lube into the counter gear bore. This would reduce excess oil accumulation in the tailhousing (imagine the vehicle on a steep slope or during acceleration) and direct this oil into the fifth gear hub bearing. If you take the unit apart, you should see that the counter gear bore feeds to a vertical lube port for oiling the fifth gear hub bearing. This is the split cage needle/roller bearing set. If you do disassemble your X15 again, some photos of the oil receiver's location, the counter gear bore and the vertical lube port for the split cage bearing would be helpful to other builders. If your unit had this piece originally, there will be a place to mount the oil receiver/funnel.
  12. Hi, Lou...The CPS must be gapped to the damper properly. Make sure you rotate the crankshaft (ignition OFF!) by hand to see whether there is runout on the damper that is impacting the crankshaft pickup gap. Check with a feeler gauge at 90-degree points on the damper. You may need to average the gap to meet the crankshaft damper's runout; the goal is to be within the normal gap range specified. The pickup cannot drag on the damper, and it cannot be spaced out too far. 10-12 degrees is for the programming in the 60-pin PCM. You can alter the base timing slightly by tricking the computer with an offset of the CPS. There is also a 5-degree adjustment window within the PCM that can correct for detonation/ping if needed. You need the correct scan tool to perform this adjustment; a Miller/SPX DRB-III tool was commonly used at dealerships. Your CJ's OEM decal is for a conventional ignition distributor that had a centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanism. The Mopar/HESCO spark timing system is electronically adjusted by the PCM and works from a programmed base timing. If necessary, you can change pushrods without much effort. The time involved is measuring the zero clearance length with the valve closed and cam lobe on its heel. This work can be done with just the valve cover removed and by loosening each pair of rocker arms as you make necessary measurements and corrections. Refer to my discussion with Stewart Snow at the forums. Find TDC on each cylinder's firing cycle before measuring that cylinder's pushrod length. (Read the rotor and crankshaft position if necessary.) The CompCams tool is the cost-effective approach. You need the correct tool for your pushrod length range. Moses
  13. To clarify that the AX15 was offered with and without a reference to the oil receiver, here is Mopar parts coverage from 1989-91. Note that the oil receiver is absent from these illustrations and parts lists. Click on image to enlarge; item 16 in top illustration is a snap ring, not the receiver:
  14. 03USMC41...Weber State is correct if the transmission is in the vehicle or installed. Unless the clutch is disengaged in Neutral, the input gear cannot turn. On the bench or in the vehicle with the clutch disengaged, the input shaft not only will turn freely in Neutral, it better turn in Neutral. The part you show is the "Oil Receiver Pipe", items #32 and #50 in the two illustrations below from different year listings. This part first appears in 1992 Mopar® parts catalog listings for the AX15. (The AX15 was used from 1989-99.) Its distinct application is the 2WD XJ Cherokee that uses a longer tailhousing and a speedometer drive gear on the output shaft. This device also appears on the AX4 and AX5 (four-cylinder, lighter duty) transmission parts listings. As a point worth mentioning, the Toyota R150F transmission (essentially an AX15) found in the late '80s 4Runner does not use this piece. Did the Weber State video (a Toyota transmission prototype) show this oil receiver? My prototype AX15 depicted in the how-to video is 1990 era and did not have the piece. The AX4 and AX5 also had 2WD XJ Cherokee applications with the longer tailhousing. As a possible clue, 4WD versions of these transmissions do not have a long tailhousing or speedometer drive on the output shaft. 4WD AX15 models drive the speedometer from the transfer case. The 2WD speedometer drive and/or a long tailhousing may play a role in the use of this oil receiver. If this device is OEM in a Jeep 4WD application, maybe oil pools at the tailhousing on steep inclines and benefits from a supplementary oil return to the main case. Or maybe this is supplemental oil for the counter fifth gear bearing?...Pure speculation here, as there is no reference to this receiver anywhere in the Mopar® service manuals. If you do need to disassemble the AX15 and install the piece, update us on how the piece fits and where this oil gets channeled. Mopar parts catalogs from 1989-99 are vague about the applications that use this piece, but if your transmission came with the part, by all means install it when you assemble the transmission. It is difficult to visualize where this piece fits. The parts diagrams show the pipe or stem end facing toward the counter shaft end (near the fifth gear). If you install this oil receiver "funnel", please share pictures of how it mounts. Your photo of the part shows clips and locating tangs. The oil receiver must capture oil and direct it somewhere. The device cannot be spinning; so does it attach to the tailhousing/case, collect oil and direct it toward the bore at the end of the counter gear? Does this pipe feed the 5th gear or bearing? If the oil goes to the counter fifth gear bearing, that would be worth noting. Later parts listings for the TJ Wrangler again show this device: "83500646 1 ER0 DDQ PIPE, Oil Receiver". You're correct about the part number. The "pipe" or "oil receiver" wanders in and out of AX4, 5 and 15 parts listings. My various Mopar® FSMs for 4WD models do not show this part in the disassembly or assembly process. Rule of thumb for a 4WD application with a short tailhousing: If the transmission has never been disassembled (factory OEM build) and does not have this part, it is not vital; if it did have this piece, reuse it. The line gets blurred when a transmission has been rebuilt previously. There's a chance that the piece has been left out. Let's determine what the oil receiver does and its importance for your AX15 build...if any. I would like to see a snapshot of the tailhousing case interior to see if there is a place to mount this oil receiver. The 1990 AX15 prototype depicted in my video does not have a mounting location for an oil receiver/funnel/pipe inside the tailhousing/output case. Click on these illustrations and expand for more detail. ..Trust this helps. Moses
  15. There is likely a bind along the geartrain either at the input-to-mainshaft pilot, pressure at the synchronizer rings/sync hubs or pressure against the input gear. Sounds like you got the rails and other pieces properly in place. Read through this post on the differences between early and late synchronizer rings: This is the timmy960 exchange mentioned in the above post: Moses
  16. 03USMC41...This sounds like input bearing or mainshaft-to-input pilot binding. 4th gear is direct and does not require free spin between the input shaft and mainshaft. You're testing the transmission on the bench, not coupled to the engine? Before tearing down, try removing or at lease loosening the front bearing retainer bolts. See if that enables the input shaft to rotate freely and the gears to move. Try the same with the rear case bolts without disturbing your RTV sealant in the case sections. These tests will address concerns about binding along the mainshaft, between the bearing at the back of the input shaft and the mainshaft, binding synchronizers or troubles elsewhere along the gear train. Synchronizers differ per AX15 years, and this can sometimes be the issue. You'll find discussions about the synchronizer rings and footnotes about these parts at the forum exchanges. Use our forums search box with the keywords "AX15", "AX-15" or "synchronizer". Another area of concern would be the rail interlock pins and balls. If the rails and shift positions seem to index okay, this is likely not an issue. The sequencing of these parts is tricky and a key element in the rebuild. The AX15 is a close tolerance assembly, a European design, that works great when every piece is spot on. Parts and case sections should drop into place and not require force. Don't give up or sublet this work, you are better off rebuilding this unit yourself to assure a reliable outcome. If you do need to tear down again, I offer a step-by-step rebuild instructional video that has helped many builders. Steps are FSM based with my decades of AX15 experience thrown into the mix. The actual unit depicted is an earlier type with the later iron front bearing retainer upgrade—essentially what you have done with your unit. Here is the link to the Vimeo On Demand rental step-by-step if you need to go that route. The trailer is below; the rental video is over an hour and a half long: Let us know how this goes...Start with loosening the front bearing retainer. Moses
  17. Lou...Is this the pump and filter sequence depicted in your HESCO installation guidelines? I believe you have it right according to the kit layout. Fuel flow volume and pressure are within spec. A 0.040" overbore should have no impact on engine fuel demands. Your kit's injectors will easily flow for that displacement. Your fuel pressure is adequate for running your engine to 4500-plus rpm, plenty high for this engine! I would move to electrical demands and spark timing. A friend and forum member with the earlier Mopar EFI Conversion had chronic issues with engine misfire and lack of performance. Symptoms were similar to what you describe...After many rounds of troubleshooting and fruitless approaches, he discovered a fundamental issue: the four wire main electrical hook-up connections were weak. The ignition lead, in particular, was a crimp bullet connector with poor continuity. If you haven't done so already, revisit these connections and solder splice the wires together correctly. Use a couple layers of heat shrink tubing for insulation. Electronic engine management requires very accurate electrical connections. Interference or resistance will raise havoc. Since the system is D.C., your ground connections are equally important. We'll rule out the ignition switch at this point, but that can also be the weak link. Another concern with these kits is the timing or crankshaft position sensor (CPS or CKS). This device, from the kits I've installed, attaches to oil pan bolt holes. Alignment is short of perfect. I would verify spark timing with a quality timing light. Check the base timing at idle and also the timing as you open the throttle slowly with the engine unloaded. Make sure this is on spec. If necessary, there is a procedure for confirming base timing a step further without sensor input. Lastly, you could have an issue with pushrod lengths unless you fitted the pushrods for the new cylinder head and block deck heights. Lifter clearance can be right on the margins and too tight as the engine revs up. This will often show up with a simple manifold vacuum gauge check, the needle is jumpy and indicates that a valve(s) are not seating properly...Review this forum exchange, especially from my December 25, 2018 reply/post onward: Moses
  18. nvordie...You will need access to a factory parts manual(s) that cover 1993 and 1997 model years. At that point, compare the part numbers for your 1997 OEM soft top pieces with the pieces used on a 1993 model Tracker. The factory/GM/Chevrolet parts manuals will illustrate what you need and help you determine which parts are missing. Any interchange between the model years would be the parts that use the same part number. The replacement top kits for 1993 and 1997 are not the same. Here is the replacement top (the cloth only, no bows) for a 1997 Geo Tracker. If you can get the hardware from a donor vehicle, here is the cloth set: https://www.morris4x4center.com/rampage-oem-replacement-soft-top-black-diamond.html (1997) Your local Chevrolet dealership may have older parts manuals or microfiche, maybe even a PDF manual that covers your Tracker. The parts listing and illustrations can confirm the parts you need. Moses
  19. Hi, Jackson...The correct T-case drop will dictate your axle choices. You have a number of transfer case choices. If you want rugged, a gear drive Advance Adapters Atlas II or an NP205 gear drive unit would be top on the list, each right side drop. The common 1980-86 Dana 300 is also right side drop and stout enough for a vehicle in the Willys Pickup weight category. Cost effective axles can be a set of leaf spring Dana 44 or GM Corporate types from the disc front brake era, matched to the T-case drop. The wider track width is desirable from a safety/center-of-gravity aspect. Use that to advantage. A vintage ('71 to pre-IFS '80s) GM, Dodge or I-H leaf spring axle set and matching transfer case would simplify the conversion. You'll need to reposition the spring perches to match your Willys springs, correcting front axle caster and rear axle pinion angle. A good ratio for your axles depends upon your transmission. If you stick with the 33" tires and rugged SM465 (one of my favorite units!), you have no overdrive. Since first (compound) gear is very low, you can get by with taller 4.10 gears (even 3.73s if the engine is strong enough). This would offer good performance overall, great off-road performance in low range and 1st gear, and an okay highway ratio for the 33" tires. Moses
  20. Hi, AngeloM...See my comments below: It's a process that begins by making sure the engine is viable...Tune, sensors and other issues follow your verifying the basic engine condition: seal for each cylinder, valve lift, valve timing and such. Moses
  21. AngeloM...Let's break this down. My comments are in red: Assuming that you have "a good crank, decent spark and fuel but no combustion", I would suspect one of three things: 1) cylinder seal is weak (valves or rings leaking, gasket issues, etc.), 2) there is a valve timing issue or 3) the ignition timing is off. If valve timing is late, this could be a stretched timing chain or on the 2.5L engine a worn chain tensioner. Late valve timing would read low manifold vacuum (directly read at the intake manifold, not ported vacuum) when the engine idles. A simple vacuum gauge can be used for this test. The gauge will also pinpoint leaking valves, which will show as a jumpy gauge needle. Since the engine picks up its top-dead-center (TDC) signal from the CPS, the ignition timing should be on. I would still verify the distributor's rotor position with #1 piston at TDC. Make sure that the distributor and rotor are indexed properly with the camshaft and crankshaft position. A thirty-one year old, 1989 XJ Cherokee with only 115K miles on it is most unusual. (Our 1999 XJ has 181K miles on it.) Do you think your Jeep's odometer is reading the original mileage? If so, the engine has set for long periods or perhaps the XJ was only used for short, local runs. Do you know the vehicle's history? When you had the valve cover off, was the rocker area sludgy or relatively clean? Moses
  22. Sounds good, Tom...You covered a lot of ground. Yes, an overnight or extended park should be revealing...Moses
  23. wondernad...You asked early on where the ECU gets the rpm signal: the CPS. This signal is very important. The ICM functions from ECU output and relies on the accuracy and function of the CPS and ECU. There are other sensors to consider. Have you tested the MAP, MAT and other values? I recently addressed the MAT (IAT), which others have found troublesome: https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1169-jeep-xj-cherokee-25l-tbi-cps-modifications/?tab=comments#comment-8193 Check out the above exchange...There may be a clue here. Moses
  24. The Schrader valve stem restricts the flow. Mopar does this test by disconnecting the flex fuel supply line that feeds the rail. This requires a spring retractor tool and a special Tee adapter. An inexpensive spring retractor hose disconnect tool set is available; however, you likely don't have the adapter. A simple alternative: Make a Tee that will fit the fuel supply hose at the engine side of the fuel filter. This would be an ample hose size for an accurate flow test. You could get creative and make a test "tool" with a 3-way Tee that you splice into the fuel line past the fuel filter (anywhere past the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and fuel filter). This could be nearer the engine in a convenient position and away from heat. The Tee would have three ports: two ports (straight through) would be the normal fuel flow, and the Tee port could be plugged when not in use. (There are NPT plugs or flare seat plugs available, whichever fitting type you want to use.) When you need to test fuel pressure and volume flow, you would remove the plug at the Tee and install either a hose to a remote metal container (flow test) or a pressure gauge (for pressure testing). Since you have a single rail system, the kit's pressure regulator returns excess flow/pressure into the fuel tank return tube. Anywhere between the pressure regulator and engine, the pressure should be in the normal range. Your 46 PSI is well within range, approximately 3.2 PSI below the "norm" but still within the +/- 5 PSI range. (Ideally, I like to see +/- 2 PSI, but 3.2 PSI should flow plenty of fuel unless the engine is a stroker 4.6L build.) If there is a volume/flow issue, this would also impact (drop) the fuel pressure. The check valve is working if the pressure holds for more than five minutes after you shut off the engine and pump. I didn't ask before but guess that you are running a Walbro style inline (external) fuel pump? The 1987-90 YJ Wrangler 4.2L conversions often use the 1991-95 style OEM fuel tank with an in-tank fuel pump module and gauge sender. I am assuming you're running the stock tank and pickup tube with the supplied external pump. What is the lineup of parts? Is your pressure regulator before or after the fuel pump? 1997-up 4.0L OEM parts orientation would be the tank pickup and fuel pump, then the pressure regulator/filter (mounted atop the pump module). By design, an inline fuel pump should be pushing fuel from the tank. They are not designed to draw fuel through the filter. My first fuel volume suspicion is a pump issue or restriction; however, the orientation of parts can make a difference before condemning the pump. If you want to check the fuel pump directly, tap your Tee at the output side of the fuel pump. The fuel line diameter can interfere with volume flow, though not the pressure readings. This is usually an issue with a larger displacement engine installation or build that requires more fuel volume. On my Mopar EFI conversions, I run 3/8-inch steel fuel/brake rated tubing from the tank to the engine at all chassis areas that do not require flexing. For flex points between the chassis and body or engine, I run high pressure EFI hose with bubble flares at the tubing connections and use Euro-style EFI hose clamps. Here are some additional details and installation tips. Be aware that some photos are for a two-rail EFI conversion kit, others are from a single rail EFI conversion: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements?r=1 Moses
  25. Hi, Jackson...Very interesting, classic Willys! The 4.3L Vortec V-6 should be reliable, adequate power. Please share your tire diameter, I'll make some suggestions about the axle ratios. Before suggesting front and rear axle types, I need to know which transfer case you will be using and the "drop side" or differential location for the axles (offset left or right). The transfer case will determine where your front and rear axle/differentials need to line up. Moses
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