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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. There are no dumb questions, Melchehabi1...One of the best resources I've found around interchangeability of head or block casting numbers is major engine remanufacturers. I took your question into the ATK/VEGE catalog and found this information: 2.5 / 150 L4 86-83 U CJ7, Cherokee, Scrambler, Wagoneer, OHV, 8 Valves, Carb, Naturally Aspirated, Gas, Complete with Valves & Springs, 7/16" Head Bolts In line 117, 403, 645, 684, 893 2A24 2.5 / 150 L4 97-86 E, H, P, U CJ7, Cherokee, Comanche, TJ, Wagoneer, Wrangler, OHV, 8 Valves, Carb & FI, Naturally Aspirated, Gas, Complete with
  2. Well, this helped, Mike! Looks like the culprit all right and explains the symptoms. Brings into question how the bore got so deep. Or is this the wrong plunger? If there's housing damage that could impair function, consider replacing the housing. If damage is not significant, see if the problem is the plunger length. If possible, have the supplier check the depth of the bore before purchasing. Is the plunger available? Have a supplier measure the replacement plunger. I would avoid buying parts unless they solve the bore/plunger depth issue. Aren't you glad this turned up bef
  3. Smart move on stick out of the spring, Mike...Also check the bore depths between the original timing cover and the new cover. The concern here is the compressed length of the spring. If the bore depths are not a match, the spring may not be compressing properly. Let's see what you find... Moses
  4. Tenny...Nice package...I think you'll be okay with the 30" tires and 3.54:1 gears. (Yes, that should be the axle ratios, front and rear.) The 2.5L TBI four has okay torque; however, that torque comes a bit up the power curve. I tested the first 1997 TJ Wranglers with 2.5L MPI engines, 5-speed AX5 overdrive manual transmissions and 4.10 gearing. On a six-percent grade, overdrive was out of the question. The 904 automatic's 1:1 third gear equates to approximately 2443 rpm at 60 mph and 2646 at 65 mph. (These rpm figures allow for converter slippage and are slightly higher than a true 1:1.
  5. jordan89oak...Good progress! The porting on the manifold adapter should work, the funneling of both barrels should be effective if the jetting is correct. Make certain there is enough throttle valve clearance with everything bolted together. Test the throttle over its full range of travel. Be certain the throttle plates will not stick open...Use a suitable throttle return spring. If the Weber has a built-in spring, safeguard with an extra return spring. You'll want distinct throttle control off-pavement. You mention fuel pump priming, not a bad idea, being able to shut off the fuel
  6. Tenny...Glad this all worked out...Where did you source the canister—new or used? Good point about rebuilding the original. Not sure if component parts are available, two used units might provide enough parts to get through a rebuild. I am curious how the 2.5L TBI four performs with a 904 automatic and 4x4. The '86 XJ Cherokee should be light, around 2,900 pounds curb weight or so. This is an interesting powertrain. In 1986, this buyer took the right route and avoided the small-journal 2.8L GM V-6. The 904 automatic should be quite robust at this weight package and engine output. I
  7. Nucking Futs...Sounds thorough...Let us know what you discover. Might be sensible to do another PC read of the Howell ECM. Look at fuel trim and the MAP readings. If TPS readings are available, note the voltage at different throttle positions...Fuel trim will indicate the O2 sensor behavior and the air/fuel ratios required to keep the engine running in balance or stoichiometric. In trying to separate issues, it would be good to know whether the engine is running rich, possibly the source for the fuel smell in the crankcase. Beyond this, the rest of the story should be in the leak
  8. Let us know what you find, Mike...As for a leak from a loose or missing plug, keep in mind that the oil pump volume is way more than the regulated flow. The pump can compensate for some leakage, there would be a point where the excess flow could not compensate enough. By design, the plunger is actually bleeding off oil excess volume. The more pressure/volume, the further the plunger moves, with the (balance) spring as a calibrated counter-force. It would be unlikely that an oil plug has been left out, most are external. However, on the Buick 225 V-6, there are two drive-in cup plugs
  9. Hi, Mike...First off, let's consider the drill motor speed. What is the rpm? Is the drill stalling? What size drill motor is this? Where is the oil gauge attached? At the OEM oil sender fitting on the block? There could still be air in the oiling system, in the lifters, and so forth, that is not allowing the gauge to read full pressure yet. Also, the petroleum jelly is working its way through the system. Pressure is strictly limited by the pressure relief valve and spring. A leak at the relief plunger would negatively impact oil pressure. Check this first. Determine whether the
  10. 1985 LaredoCJ...Let us know how the new sender works and if this resolves your inaccurate gauge...Sounds promising! If this works properly, your son will not be calling you or AAA for fuel...much safer. Moses
  11. bobdavis...Sounds more promising. It is possible for synchronizers to need break-in, and there has been a good deal of controversy about AX15 brass blocking rings supplied in aftermarket kits. We have covered this extensively at the forums. You may have such an issue, and yes, the problem could resolve as the synchro rings seat. Pilot bind, possibly from the dowel missing, may have played a role. If this is steadily improving, the brass rings could be seating. You may also be experiencing clutch disk seating and an improved clutch release when the pedal is depressed. The disk friction m
  12. Nucking Futs...Unless the engine has been burning oil, indicated by an ongoing drop in oil level and possible oil fouling of the spark plugs, I would do some tests before rebuilding the engine. My first step would be a cylinder leakdown test on each cylinder with its piston at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). There are pinpoint wave form readings you can observe with a lab scope and in-cylinder pressure transducer tests; however, you would need a lab scope and pressure transducer kit to do so. An OTC or equivalent leakdown tester would be a fraction of that cost. Ev
  13. Knyte...Thanks for jumping into Frank's questions...Pics always help, thanks! Moses
  14. bobdavis...Give the pedal/pushrod more consideration. Think of the pedal as a pendulum with the clutch master cylinder pushrod moving X-amount for a given range of pedal movement. You have only so much pedal movement. There is only so much clutch master cylinder piston travel. The pedal travel and clutch master cylinder piston movement or "ratio" is determined by the attachment point of the clutch master cylinder pushrod. The higher the retracted pedal, the more movement. The tabs not breaking on the slave cylinder pushrod indicates that the slave piston is not moving far enough.
  15. bobdavis...Sounds like your stack height is okay with that limited amount of arm movement. When you remove the pedal rod, is the piston in the clutch master cylinder retracting completely? The slave end should have enough stroke, since every piece is a 1995 prototype match. The clutch will self-adjust as I mentioned. You simply need enough clutch master cylinder piston travel to move the clutch slave cylinder piston and rod the necessary amount of travel. So, the correct pedal and pedal pushrod travel will allow the clutch master cylinder piston to retract fully with the pedal release
  16. bobdavis...Do you mean that the release arm moves a total of 1/4-inch inward and outward with the slave removed? That would not be excessive if this is the total release arm travel to move the release bearing from fully retracted to just where it touches the clutch cover fingers. If this is all the further the release arm moves, it would rule out a throwout bearing collar length issue. Regarding the issue with the slave rod straps, the slave rod straps should break with the first application(s) of the clutch pedal. If you've removed three slaves with the straps still in place, the mast
  17. bobdavis...You did a thorough, labor intensive job here, lots of work, at least the dowel is in place now... Some thoughts...First off, good idea to verify why the pedal stops 1" off the floor. That could be the slave piston fully extended and bottomed in the slave cylinder. If the release arm is retracting too far, as you hint, the overall release arm throw would come up short. My first concerns would be the throwout bearing collar length or the height of the release arm ball stud—which you suggested when asking about shimming the ball stud. Do you have the correct ball stud and
  18. Hi, Tenny...Insightful, thanks for sharing! The EVAP canister causing the EGR vacuum loss and flutter will be helpful troubleshooting for others. I did some research for your canister. 1986 four-cylinder is different than the six-cylinder, which would be the GM 2.8L V-6. Here are the part numbers for both, your canister should be #1 in the parts illustration below and also under the part numbers. See whether you can cross over the 33000056 Mopar part number to any other application or replacement. Try a Google search under the keyword/phrase "Mopar 33000056". There may be other, mo
  19. For quality and product awareness, Crown Automotive is reliable. Omix-ADA would be an alternative. Crown outsources a lot of Taiwanese product. Others use PRC sources. (Pick your Chinese preference?) PRC quality has improved substantially over the years. Taiwan is noted for quality machine tools and castings. A 36-year-old CJ7 has a high likelihood of a fuel gauge sender change at some point...The checks will help narrow down the issue or at least qualify whether you should drop the tank or not. Let us know what you discover... Moses
  20. 4x4sportsman...First off, 4.10 gears with 37" diameter tires is tall gearing. This would help with fuel efficiency (always relative with a lifted truck and weight) but would be a hindrance when towing a load. I have a Ram/Cummins 3500 4x4 with 4.56 gears to accommodate my 37" tires. I'm around 1980 rpm at 69 mph. For a gasoline engine, this would be well up your torque curve though not fully there. When towing, I try to maintain a top speed of 65 mph, which many pullers can't seem to do. I can spin the diesel engine way beyond this speed, but fuel efficiency goes down proportionate to sp
  21. 1985LaredoCJ...There are several possibilities: 1) The gauge sender is inaccurate, 2) the voltage signal is inaccurate to the gauge, 3) the gauge or voltage at the dash instrument panel is inaccurate, or 4) there is a ground issue at either the sender to frame or instrument cluster to body, to engine, to frame. The gauge sender must be for a 20-gallon tank. Otherwise, the depth of the tank will not reflect accurately. Also, the sender arm must be able to operate over the depth/range of the 20-gallon tank. It's possible that the sender is for a smaller tank. It's also possible that
  22. Mike...Have the crankcase oil at normal Full level and engine at the correct angle when priming. Oil will fill the filter and drop the oil level a bit. After oil is fully primed and has drained back into the crankcase, top off the crankcase oil level...You're close! Moses
  23. Interesting...Historically, we picked up auxiliary voltage during the cranking mode from the starter solenoid switch. The switch closes to power the starter, and the small terminal pole powers up with a full 12-volts (usually for the ignition circuit, which is incidental). When the cranking mode ends, the solenoid opens and that small amp circuit loses 12-volts as you would want. If that is a useful source, wire from the terminal to fuel pump with adequate gauge wiring for the pump. You want to fuse that lead. If desired, an in-circuit 5-pole common Bosch type relay would work, too.
  24. Hi, WranglerFIN...Even though you were not measuring at the TBI unit, the pressure at the "T" should be reasonably accurate. The way you measured, the pressure regulator was releasing at 12-14 PSI. You would want a steady 14-15 PSI pressure if the fuel pump flow is good. Again, the test would be more accurate at the TBI test port. The fitting in the shop manual looks like a plug. (Did you buy a shop manual or CD yet?) However, in the Mopar parts catalog, there was (discontinued now) a fitting kit available that looks like a common EFI fuel rail Schrader valve fitting. The thread i
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