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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    B Rad...Let's consider some possibilities based on what you've shared. See my comments/reply in red:
  2. Moses Ludel
    cannonball...Couldn't open the video, can you upload it to YouTube and provide a link? Did you have the transmission apart? Is there any distinction between the growl in the gears when you place the transmission in fourth gear? The other gears? Reverse? How about Neutral with the clutch pedal released? Same noise regardless? Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    Hi, cannonball...If the transmission input gear teeth were stripped or damaged, you could still rotate the output shaft in fourth gear. So that's not likely. If you have a 4WD, I would look to the transfer case for the trouble. The transfer case may not be engaged in either high or low range. If 2WD, your problem might be stripped splines in the driveshaft's front coupler/slip yoke. You would be hearing the ratcheting of the transmission output shaft within the slip yoke coupler. Does that help? If not, let us know... Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    Kevin G...The TJ should last for many years. A band adjustment now and again with a fluid and filter change is helpful on these RE/RH band-type transmissions. If you off-road on steep gradients, get a deep transmission oil pan and a filter spacer kit to prevent a dry sump condition, the only weakness in the TJ version of the 30RH/32RH. This transmission's architecture dates to the 904/999 of the sixties...good reason for a builder to have plenty of parts laying around...Your four-year-old will remember this Jeep. Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    Kevin G...Good judgment call! You got a smokin' deal, and 200K miles is plenty for a 32RH transmission. Cost effectively, labor saved, you only removed the transmission once, now you have peace of mind plus an 18/18 warranty. Smart! Glad you're back on the road and not just "patched up". Beyond the overhaul kit, were there hard parts or upgrades in the build? Did this include a rebuilt torque converter? Good to know that the transmission issues were resolved during the rebuild... Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    JP88YJ...Yes, the solenoid function is controlled by the ECU. "When energized by the ECU the solenoid closes and prevents vacuum from reaching the EGR valve. When not energized, the solenoid is open and vacuum is applied to the EGR valve." On circuits and devices controlled by the ECU, think of the ECU as the ground source. You have a hot source to the solenoid that's active as you discovered. The ECU provides the ground signal. The #5 pin on the 35-way ECM/ECU connector is a blue wire (BL) and 14 gauge. This is the ECU signal for the EGR solenoid. Your vehicle grounds are important, the reason everyone discusses the body-to-engine and frame grounds, including the classic dipstick ground or body strap ground(s). An emissions check, if "visual", will test the function of the EGR solenoid, i.e. whether the EGR valve opens and closes at the right time. I would want the system to function normally, otherwise the tailpipe readings will be wrong at the emission test's rpm thresholds. On your YJ Wrangler, the evaporative canister is also on the vacuum circuit with the EGR. Below is the vacuum diagram and FSM troubleshooting steps. Do you have an FSM for your YJ? A CD reprint of the 1987-90 FSM is practical. I found this at eBay with a quick search. The source is reputable, and the CD enables faster navigation plus printing of individual pages to take into your garage. A CD avoids the paper deterioration and getting smudge prints on an older (used) book. I use Mopar OEM/FSMs, not aftermarket manuals like Haynes or Chilton: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152798258131 Moses
  7. Moses Ludel
    bobby80...I looked for this code and common troubles associated with it. Your transmission is the 42RLE used in the Liberty and Jeep TJ/JK models. Here's the Chrysler technical service bulletin rundown for a P1776 Code (DTC). It points primarily to transmission, valve body and solenoid issues, but I wouldn't go there yet...My comments are in red: "DTC P1776 will set if transmission senses LR pressure switch closing while actuating Torque Converter Clutch (TCC). With 2 unsuccessful attempts made to actuate TCC, DTC will set. EMCC is inhibited and transmission system will default to orderly shutdown routine. This DTC may take up to 5 minutes to detect before illuminating MIL. Causes: *Transmission control relay output circuit open. *LR pressure switch sense circuit open. *LR pressure switch sense circuit shorted to ground. *LR pressure switch sense circuit shorted to voltage. *DTC P0841 present. *Faulty TCM. *Incorrect fluid level. *Defective oil pump. *Internal transmission problem (SSV stuck)" Most online discussion about this code leans toward a valve body or solenoid switch issue within the transmission. Before plunging into a transmission valve body or solenoid repair, there are some peripheral issues related to this code. For one thing, the rough running you describe could be putting the Liberty into limp home mode. This could activate a 2nd gear hold. The "shaking" and "spitting and sputtering" sounds engine related. I would want to eliminate the engine behavior before condemning or diving into the transmission or valve body. How many miles are on this engine and transmission? Has the engine been tuned or serviced? Is the engine running hot or hotter than usual? That could be a transmission or engine cooling problem. Some experience the P1776 code from transmission overheating. The spark plugs on the Liberty 3.7L V6 are difficult to access and get neglected. A dirty air filter can cause trouble. THE FIRST CONCERN BASED UPON YOUR EARLIER PERFORMANCE SYMPTOMS WOULD BE A DIRTY/CLOGGED FUEL FILTER. If you have no record of the last fuel filter change, this would be a place to start. If the engine straightens out, you can see if that changes the transmission performance. The transmission may require a fluid and filter change, possibly a flush. Do not drive the Jeep without checking the transmission fluid level. Figure out when the last service took place. Do you know the Jeep's history or have service records? I'm guessing this is a 3.7L V6 with the 42RLE automatic. Is the Jeep 2WD or 4WD?...How many miles are on the vehicle? What is its overall condition? Was the transmission shifting poorly before? When was the last time you serviced this transmission? It may need a filter and fluid change. The DTC 0841 mentioned, whether or not you have actually thrown this code, is transmission fluid pressure. Fluid pressure problems begin with a low fluid level or simply a clogged transmission filter. If not addressed, internal damage to the transmission will take place. Let's sift through these service related issues before you wind up in a transmission shop with the 42RLE apart needlessly. It may have the solenoid and valve body trouble, but I would rule out everything else first. Some do the valve body and solenoid repair and still get a P1776 DTC plus stuck in 2nd gear. Moses
  8. Moses Ludel
    jordan89oak...This is valuable insight for others doing a power brake conversion. The intake does stick out, visible in your third photo. The booster size could also impact a V-8 swap. There's been plenty of push-back on this project, but your finish line is within sight. Weather's been hot, sadly there is heavy smoke from the Dixie Fire on both sides of the Sierra Range. Any Sierra trips will be in the early fall this year. You should be up and running by then. Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    You're welcome, vykkagur...Since you won't have overdrive with either transmission (4th is 1:1 ratio), select your axle ratios and tire diameter accordingly. If you're sold on the NP435 and SM465 rather than an NV4500, which has overdrive, you do have the compound low reduction 1st gear. This enables somewhat "taller" (numerically lower) axle ratios. What is the model/chassis, tire diameter, axle ratio(s) and engine? If you plan to daily drive, fuel efficiency is important. Engine rpm at highway cruise speed will directly impact fuel efficiency. Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    vykkagur...I've run an NP435 in a Jeep CJ-5 (4.2L Jeep engine with a Dodge truck transmission) and stock SM465 transmissions in GM full-size trucks with V-8 engines and an FJ40 Land Cruiser with a stroker Chevy 383 V-8 and SM465. In my experience, the NP435 and SM465 produce similar and not highly objectionable noise levels. "Noise", of course, is subjective, it depends upon just how quiet you expect a cast iron, large gear set transmission to be. The Older SM420 Muncie, especially with a compound 1st gear ratio of 7.05:1, was noisier all around. The NP435 or SM465 is generally picked for its compound first gear ratio, superior stamina and longevity—not the noise level. Arguably, having rebuilt these transmissions to factory specifications, I would say that higher noise levels usually have more to do with bearing and gear tooth wear. Neither the NP435 nor the SM465, each with helical 2-3-4 speed synchromesh gears, is characteristically a "whiner". Each of these transmissions was "modern era" with synchronizers. (The NP units use a unique synchromesh hub assembly design.) Vintage truck transmissions with straight cut gear teeth (Clark and other "spur gear" designs) make plenty of noise. Are you running this transmission in a Jeep CJ? Here, I would base my choice on the length of the transmission, weight and the cost of adaptation to the transfer case. Weight can be a deal breaker on some transmission conversions although I have swapped hefty NV4500 units into an AMC/Jeep eighties CJ and an FJ40. It all depends upon the ratios desired and whether you want or need a "bulletproof" transmission. I am partial to the SM465. GM used these units with great success in 1/2-ton through 1-ton capacity trucks. The NP435 also has a high load capacity or "torque rating" although I have never seen torque figures for these units. Each is iron cased with a PTO outlet. 4th is direct, compound low is non-synchromesh and requires stopping for a proper downshift. Most ratio combinations allow starting off in synchromesh 2nd gear when the vehicle is unloaded...Ratios may influence your choice, compare them and know the ratios of a donor transmission. Here is a snapshot of ratios and details for all three transmissions (data courtesy of Novak Adapters). Each transmission has an iron case. Note that the SM465 is heavier and "beefier". Ratios are correct for most recycled transmissions that you will find. Before buying a unit, test the transmission to see what ratios are in place: If noise is a large concern, an HD NV4500 or NV5600 would be "noisier" than these three transmissions. All of these transmissions are heavier duty units with larger gear mass. This is a recipe for noise. To offset the noise, you have many options for insulating above and below the floorboard... Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    Very nice work, Monty...Pleased that RSE is a stand-up, reliable source and backs its products...Thanks for sharing this major upgrade with the forum! Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    Monty, a great looking, functional solution to two problems! Retracted, you have a full-fledged off pavement 4x4. When you need to enter or exit the TJ, it's no hardship and without doing the splits! Sensible...I like the way the steps retract fully into a fitted well. Did you have the rock slider steps painted to match your TJ Wrangler? Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    tshasha...These ECUs deteriorate or fail at higher mileage. That's always a possibility. I would, however, install the new thermostat before getting your ECU rebuilt or exchanging it for a rebuilt unit. The thermostat needs replacing regardless and could be the cure for your problem. Where did you get the information that Pin #15 should have 5 volts with Key On/Engine Off? Based on how these sensors work, #15 pin and #14 pin should not be feeding 5 volts to the CTS or Manifold Air/Fuel Temp (MAT) sensor. The CTS and MAT sensor each complete a ground. I think of these sensors like rheostats. The ground signal from Pin #32 is constant input to one pole of each sensor. The ground "amount" or resisted ground flow to Pin #15 or #14 is governed by the sensors' resistance at a given temperature. Temperature at the sensor varies the degree of Ohms resistance across the sensor poles. As the CTS or MAT heats up, the Ohms reading across the CTS or MAT poles drop in resistance. If the coolant temperature sensor could reach near zero Ohms, the #32 ground side Ohms would be nearly the same as the input (ground) Ohms reading to Pin #15. (The 0.62V reading that you get at Pin #15 is likely residual feedback from the ECU circuits. Is this negative or positive DC voltage on your meter? It may be immaterial.) The MAT will likely not read 155 degrees F or the same as the coolant temperature at the thermostat housing. (Aim your non-contact thermometer beam at the base of the MAT when the coolant is at 155 degrees F. Is the MAT reading lower?) The MAT is the intake stream air/fuel mixture temperature and not the engine's cooling system/coolant temperature. #15 and #14 do share a common, full ground from Pin 32. However, the two sensor circuits are independent of each other. The ECU is apparently comparing a full ground (Pin 32) to the partial or resisted grounds feeding to Pins 14 and 15 from their sensors. Again, at varying temperatures, the sensors act to reduce or increase the ground signal Ohms. The ECU weighs the Ohms readings at Pin 14 or 15, which is a reflection of each sensor's temperature reading. The base ground signal (Pin 32) establishes a "constant" reference point. The #14 or #15 feeds from the MAT or CTS to the ECU vary in Ohms. Each sensor is affected by temperature. The MAT reads incoming air temperature. The CTS reads the coolant temperature. Worth noting, the Ohms resistance calibration for each of these sensors is the same at a given temperature. See the charts below: Glad you tested the #32 ground feed. The sensors do require an accurate ground signal from the ECU. This signal is then fed through each sensor and altered according to the temperatures. The sensors' output poles take the Ohms resistance to the ECU pins #14 and #15. Footnote: Continuity/resistance tests are not the same as a load test. A good test for the integrity of ground circuits is a "lamp test". This will indicate the load carrying capacity of the ground wire(s) and the circuit. Scan tools are very useful, but there are some basic mechanical and electrical functions involved here. Before you dwell on the scan tool findings, try changing the thermostat to a new 195-degrees F replacement unit. Make sure the thermostat's bypass bleed hole is at 12 o'clock. You may find the fix here... Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    tshasha...You're trying to be thorough and using good troubleshooting methods. In case you don't have an FSM for your model, below is a diagram from the FSM, covering the CTS wiring. Zoom-in for better detail. Do a continuity/Ohms resistance test from Pin 15 on the ECU to the CTS connector. Check Ohms resistance for opens or high resistance. Then test your CTS itself. Forget the scan tool for the moment, simply disconnect the wiring from the CTS and check across the poles. According to the wiring chart, at an ambient temp around 100-degrees F, you should get an Ohms reading of approximately 1365 ohms. If you run this test with the engine or CTS at 220-degrees F, the reading should drop to 93.5 ohms. Factor for temperature points between these thresholds. These sensors usually work or they don't. I would rule out the CTS and poor wiring connectors first. The most likely culprits are 1) a poor connection, 2) corrosion/oxidation at connectors or 3) a defective CTS. Don't replace the CTS unless it fails the Ohms test. Grounds are critical on the 2.5L TBI YJs. Check your grounds, especially the firewall/dipstick tube ground. Oxidation can build over time and increase resistance. The ECU is always a possibility, though that would be a long shot. If you clean pin connectors, use a soft nylon tool and electrical spray cleaner. Do not gouge terminals with a metal scraper or screw driver. You simply want to remove oxidation, which is usually black. Let's see what you find... Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    Suitable fix, Monty! Others will benefit from your approach...Glad this worked out well. Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    Monty...Glad I could point you in the right direction. You would have wasted a great deal of time removing the HVAC plenum and fiddling with the duct flaps. Shops charge customers hundreds of labor dollars chasing down these issues. You have a manufactured vacuum harness here. This PDF is the line drawing from the FSM. You can zoom into the PDF for detail. Note the check valves and other items that need to remain in the system: 1997 TJ Wrangler Vacuum Rerservoir Schematic.pdf The factory tube with check valves may still be available if you want to replace the entire Mopar piece. If not, you'll need to splice-in tubing at the damaged section or construct a tube section, keeping the check valves in place. If you look closely, there is a section from the reservoir to a check valve near the firewall. If you get bulk tubing, you can fabricate the tube section from the reservoir to the first check valve to restore the system. To duplicate the curves and radii, use a hair dryer or heat gun. This is plastic, so practice with a few spare pieces before forming the final tube. A quick repair would be Dorman 'Help!' parts from the local parts house. The link to Amazon finds vacuum connectors, tubing and assorted parts. Dorman makes 'Soft Vacuum Tubing connectors' and simple tubing splice connectors. Tubing is available in bulk. There is a market full of repair parts for this tubing. If you can't find what you need at the local parts house or Amazon, see Dorman's full catalog online: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47417-Hard-Hose/dp/B0006305N8 If you want color plastic vacuum tubing, it's also available... Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Monty...Trust you're doing well and staying busy in good ways! First-off, the TJ HVAC system has a vacuum reservoir. It is not unusual for the vacuum source to the HEVAC vacuum reservoir to have a hose leak, deteriorate or leak at the reservoir. Locate the reservoir and trace the vacuum source there. Check for consistent vacuum to the reservoir and to the check valves after the reservoir. I had a vacuum loss on our '99 XJ (similar) that would shut off the cruise control on a grade and shift the A/C flow to the defroster only. I traced the vacuum supply from the reservoir and found that the vacuum hose was directly beneath the battery box. Corrosive debris over time had etched through the hose. The leak was not noticeable unless engine manifold vacuum dropped. When engine vacuum was low (climbing a grade under throttle), there was not enough vacuum to operate the heater and A/C flaps or keep the cruise control diaphragm working properly. Try the vacuum source issue before plunging into the HVAC or HEVAC plenum and vacuum motors. You can test each vacuum motor simply enough with a hand vacuum pump. In fact, you can test the plenum flap movement this way with the A/C and heater operating to see where the air flow goes when vacuum gets applied. This is a quick way to troubleshoot the HEVAC and HVAC functions. Again, the first place I would look is the vacuum reservoir and vacuum supply sources or hoses. If the issue were temperature control, I would be checking the control cable that attaches to the dash control unit. A loose or broken control cable is often the source for temperature control issues. Schematic drawing of your HEVAC components: 1997 Jeep TJ HEVAC Components.pdf Moses
  18. Moses Ludel
    Tawanda...I use this reference because the longer stroke will draw and compress more volume into the combustion chamber. A stock replacement piston might be 8.7:1 compression with the stock stroke. Lengthen the stroke, and you have more cylinder volume (longer stroke) compressing into the same combustion chamber volume. "Net of 8.5:1-8.7:1" is doing the math for the compression ratio with a stroker crankshaft. Your cylinder head and the 252H cam would likely tolerate up to 8.7:1 for unleaded regular fuel. DCR would be the dynamic or rotating ratio that considers the effect of the intake valve opening events. We don't have to get this specific, especially with stock valve timing and a 252H grind. (Well, you can if you want.) The idea here is to account for the added stroke length and its effect on the compression ratio, which SCR (static) will do. For example, you might find that an 8:1 ratio piston for a stock 4.0L engine nets 8.5:1 with the stroker. (This is hypothetical, not actual. Do the math.) To demystify this, there are manufacturers who now make 4.0L pistons specifically for 4.6L stroker crankshaft conversions. Some sell complete kits with a SCAT crankshaft...These piston makers specify which connecting rods (4.2L or 4.0L) will be used. If the piston manufacturer is accounting for the correct piston deck height, pin location and combustion chamber size, the piston's compression ratio rating is likely correct right out of the box. Before these "stroker" pistons were available, the pistons used in 4.6L builds were 4.0L stock replacement or high performance types. Moses
  19. Moses Ludel
    Simon...If you still need Tom's contact information, be aware that he has a busy shop and would not have time to answer technical questions for DIY restorers. If you need to sublet work, he would be a resource. Let me know... Moses
  20. Moses Ludel
    Understand completely, Simon. You have a significant body tub spacer lift. That raised the body/firewall up considerably while the transmission/engine remained at the normal frame height. You need to lower the firewall end of the clutch linkage cross-shaft/tube to level the tube. Yes, you do need to fabricate a longer drop bracket. Like you suggest, I would use the original piece and mate enough extra length to level the cross tube. A piece of suitable angle steel can be cut, shaped and welded to extend the factory bracket. (Take careful measurements and do the welding on your welding bench, not in place!) The idea is to drop the factory bracket straight down and drill new locating holes in the bracket to match the existing firewall studs or bolts. An alternative would be extending the bracket from its lower end to retain the existing firewall mounting holes in the bracket. Use angle steel for the bracket extension to prevent flexing. Do any welding on your welding bench. The rod from the pedal to the lever arm on the cross tube will need to be lengthened to approximately the same length as the drop bracket. The kit you illustrate with Heim ends gives you the choice of three rod lengths, right? It looks like this rod kit with extra lengths is intended for body lifts. Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    Simon...I have a longstanding friend from my years of work with Mopar and Camp Jeep. He's at Michigan (Rochester Hills). If that's close enough, Tom has retired from FCA and opened a Jeep restoration shop. He's very familiar with the AMC era CJs. Is Michigan close enough? I can furnish details if you wish to contact him... Moses
  22. Moses Ludel
    Umm...Well, Tawanda, the Clifford manifold was traditionally a 4-barrel flange pattern. Many adapted 2-barrel Holley carburetors to the Clifford intake manifold, using a common 2-barrel to 4-barrel adapter plate. You need an adapter plate to mate Howell's TBI (GM TBI base pattern) to either a Clifford or Jeep 258/4.2L stock manifold. Howell's kit does furnish an adapter to the Jeep manifold. There are many adapter plates for a GM TBI unit to a four-barrel carburetor pattern like the Clifford manifold. I found this inexpensive example at Amazon: Transdapt 4-barrel manifold to GM TBI Unit. You would need to confirm that this plate would work with both the Howell TBI unit and the Clifford manifold. From my vantage, the gains of TBI far outweigh the concern about less than ideal air flow to the end cylinders. If Howell does not support the switch to a Clifford manifold, I would stay with a stock BBD manifold and, by all means, get the emission legal Howell TBI conversion. It will not produce the horsepower of MPI (Mopar's kit) but will provide a reliable and substantial improvement over a carburetor. Carburetors with a float and fixed jets or fuel circuits are sensitive to off-camber (tilted) trails and altitude changes. In the early nineties, I tested a Holley 2300 two-barrel carburetor on a 258 Jeep six. Horiba lent me $10,000 (very expensive at the time!) worth of air/fuel ratio testing equipment. The popular Holley Universal 300 CFM carburetor, jetted and metered for sea level, showed significant enrichment with each 1,200 feet of elevation change. Each fuel ratio change would require re-jetting to restore a normal air/fuel ratio (14.7:1 "stoichiometric" at cruise). Engineer Pass in Colorado is 12,800 feet above sea level. An EFI system (TBI or MPI) with oxygen sensor feedback can compensate for this. A non-feedback carburetor cannot. Even the eighties feedback carburetors could not adjust for this range of atmospheric change. That, in part, ushered in the era of TBI and port or multi-point injection. I respect the Clifford products, and the tuning of the dual Weber carburetors is likely well tested. The system looks clean, complete, well conceived and performance oriented. Predating modern EFI systems, Weber carburetors earned racing and high performance laurels in European marque cars. I'm sure the Clifford header complements this induction system, the combination packing a performance wallop. Add a re-curved aftermarket ignition distributor, a compression bump and performance camshaft, and this would be the ultimate inline six-cylinder AMC/Jeep performer for sand drags or hill climb competition. However, like other aftermarket carburetors, Weber carburetors are altitude sensitive and do not have an oxygen sensor feedback system. (The later Jeep/Carter BBD carburetor has an O2 sensor although its function is very limited and aimed mostly at meeting emission requirements—not improving performance.) An aftermarket four-barrel or dual carburetor conversion is not 50-State legal and comes with an "off-highway use only" disclaimer. For driving in rough backcountry, Howell's TBI kit offers better rock crawling stability than carburetion, plus the kit is 50-State legal. It sells for half the current price of a Mopar EFI Conversion Kit. The Sniper and MSD Atomic systems perform well, but what about proprietary replacement parts? Specifically, a Jeep 4x4 needs backcountry reliability, ease of service and ready parts availability at the local auto supply on a Sunday afternoon. Many of us have made parts runs to Auburn, California on behalf of Jeep 4x4s stuck along the Rubicon Trail. Beyond carrying a spare electric fuel pump, you can find common GM TBI parts at most local parts houses. At least the parts would be recognizable. To the point, Sniper and Atomic systems are fantastic for street rods, hobby cars, restomods and drag strip performance. You have a Jeep 4x4. Decide what will best meet your needs. Choose the fuel and spark system that will reliably get you home from the woods. Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    tshasha...Although your scanner may be accurate, I would run some manual tests. With an infrared non-contact thermometer, see what the actual temp is at the thermostat housing and radiator. If it's truly 155 degrees F after warm up, change the thermostat to a new 195-degree F unit. See if that takes the system out of open loop and stabilizes the idle. As for manifold vacuum, same thing. Check the actual manifold vacuum with a simple vacuum gauge at a manifold port below the throttle body. These mechanical tests will indicate more than a scan, as the scan tool depends solely on sensor and ECU data. If the problem persists after these checks and repairs, test the pressure at the TBI pressure port. It should be 14-15 PSI. Verify that the fuel pump part number is correct for a 2.5L TBI application. A later pump application for MPI will put out too much pressure. Let's go from there... Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Well, pwbulldog, that does account for a part that resembles #1 in the 1981 Mopar Parts illustration below. Though not your 1977 model, the bracket for a column shift steering column is similar. Sounds like you nailed it. The other piece fits there too?
  25. Moses Ludel
    I have no illustrations from the pre-1981 parts manuals. Your components do not resemble frame members or engine/transmission support brackets. A late seventies (1976-79) factory parts schematic for the body and attachments would be helpful. This is the 1981 Mopar catalog/factory body tub and dash layout. Though not your model, this may be insightful: Moses
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