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  1. I bought my first Jeep about 3 months ago, a 2000 TJ 4.0 automatic. I’ve had no issues with it until a recent off-road trip when the transmission decided to stop shifting out of 2nd gear. I know very little about working on transmissions so I hope someone here can help. I’m not completely certain at what point the trans stopped shifting correctly but I do know it was after hitting a fairly deep mud hole which o got hung up in so I decided I would try to “rock” it out by shifting from drive to reverse and back several times. The Jeep did fine after that, from what I could tell, but we also were
  2. There has been a long thread of exchanges at Timmy960's topic on harsh shifting after rebuilding an AX15 transmission. The problem around 3rd/4th gear shift issues has a basis in the redesign of the synchronizer sleeve, bronze blocking rings and the third gear cog teeth for the sleeve engagement. Jason Logan and I had an exchange about this issue when he rebuilt his '99 TJ Wrangler unit. That exchange was just prior to the launch of the forums. For the benefit of all AX15 rebuilders, I am starting a new topic around this issue, beginning with the in-depth Q&A exchange that Jason Logan
  3. Hi, Just joined but have been using these forums for a while for information. SO I have an 88 YJ with the TBI. My issue all started when I went to get it smogged last year. Short story it failed 3 times for high NOX @ 35mph. By the third failure I had replaced every sensor I could replace, including the EGR. The cataliytic converter only has about 1000 miles. I do have the snap-on diagnostic tester, just looking for some direction to narrow my troubleshooting. Currently the jeep wont idle on its own and I can smell that it is running very rich and it seems to run a bit rough. T
  4. The owner of a 1998 Jeep Wrangler had several questions about the use of a CompCams 252H grind camshaft in a Jeep 4.6L stroker inline six engine build. His engine core is a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0L...Here is our exchange. My comments are in red: Keith M.: I’ve seen some posts, including on Comp Cams’ site, that say the head on the ’98 has different size valve stems than other years and that cams that will work on other years won’t work on this one. I’m pretty confused by what seems to be conflicting and unreliable information. Moses: I’m not clear why there is so much confusi
  5. On the passenger side engine compartment on my 89 yj 2.5 liter there is some diagnostic plug in connectors. which one is the connector for the isa motor control? Which one is D-1 and D-2? How are each individual holes in connectors numbered ( 1-2-3-4-5-6 etc>)?
  6. I recently bought a 1990 Jeep YJ with 4 cyl 2.5 TBI engine. The jeep runs great except during warm-up. It starts fine and runs and idles well initially. As soon as the temperature gauge begins to climb off the 100 degree mark, the engine begins hunting and surging and usually stalls. If I push down on the accelerator and run it to 1000+ rpm, I can get the engine to heat up to operating temperature. At that point (~160-170F) the idle becomes stable again. So far I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting but have checked the EGR valve, changed rotor/cap, air filter, and fuel filter with no s
  7. So this is a wierd one, I've looked and looked on the Internet and can't figure it out. My jeep wrangler runs and drives just fine but there is no cel on start up. I know there should be code because I have no 02 sensors hooked up. I want to know if there is more though. Any help would be appreciated
  8. I have purchased an 87 yj tbi 2.5. With help from this site I have been tinkering with this thing trying to get it to run as its suppose to especially in this cold weather. I was looking at my egr valve while I was replacing the vacuum lines and noticed it was unhooked and the line feeding it is plugged. I did notice that the vacuum port on the egr was facing the front of the jeep, that seems to be the wrong direction to me.
  9. There is some play in steering wheel (precisely in steering gear box) and I have power steering. Its saginaw unit, and I've found that it has some adjusting screw on top of it and that by adjusting that screw I can reduce play. On the other hand, I've read that this should be done only after rebuilding complete unit and that adjusting it without rebuild could make elements inside bind and damage the unit. Can it be done or I need to rebuild it first? It has some 180.000 miles on it and no visible leaks on it nor on ps pump.
  10. Hi Guys! I've scoured these pages the last couple days, but can't find anything that matches my specific dilemma. I have a 1990 Wrangler w/ 150k miles on it, recent acquisition by my future son-in-law. It was running relatively fine, but it quit suddenly on a recent trip. It started cutting out when hitting bumps, then finally quit altogether. After dragging it home, hitting the forums, swapping a few parts, following all the sensor tests and wrapping my head around this TBI setup, I am afraid I have a partially dead ECU. -All ignition parts replaced- Ignition Module, Coil, Wire
  11. If you read this Moses, many thanks for your Dana 30 rebuild article, it's the only one I've found that helped me. Here is my problem in a rather large nutshell. 1995 YJ, 2.5 5spd. I had an axle seal leaking and bad lower ball joints so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to 4:88 gears and 4340 axles since I am rolling 33-12.50's. I opened up the diff to find a recent but very poorly installed 4:56. The caps were on upside down and it had about .100" backlash so I am essentially starting from zero. The carrier bearings appear to be original so I am fairly sure the shims are clos
  12. I have a 1988 YJ 2.5L and am I right to assume that it has the AX5 tranny? If so, is there a kit available to convert from the internal clutch slave cylinder to an external? Is this something I should do? I believe the slave is working properly but the bearing is definitely making noise. I have less that 800 miles on the new (slave/throw-out) that was purchased at a local box store (oreilly's) and it's already making noises. Any suggestions or opinions are greatly appreciated. Steve
  13. T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I st
  14. Well my power steering is on its last leg and screaming at me literally to be changed. I ordered a NEW pump and a serp belt and also the puller tool for the pulley. My main concern is to flush the system so I have all new fluid in there. whats the easiest way to go about this?
  15. Hi All, I've started this new topic as a result of my last nightmare, I mean, topic. Due to budget limits I have purchased a used Differential for the dana 35 and am going back to my regular size tires. You can see in the link below why this all came about. I've never done this repair but I have done a lot of DIY on my Jeep with good success. I'm looking into youtube and the forum for suggestions plus Moses is here with professional advice. I plan on starting tomorrow, just waiting on other parts. Feel free to add suggestions. Thanks.
  16. Moses, your website has been extremely useful for me while working on my 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI engine. I have used it for testing just about everything on my jeep. I have replaced several items because of extremely high emissions. Today was the 4th pass through the test, and I finally passed my emissions test. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition control module, spark plugs, cap and rotor and set the base timing, map sensor (because it did not hold vacuum), coolant temp sensor and my fuel injector. With all of that, my emissions finally were within spec. I am still ha
  17. Hi, I have a 1988 Jeep Yj 2.5 with the renix computer. My last stop before I drive this thing off a cliff is here. I should have come here first. I hope one of you can help me. I love my Jeep but am so frustrated with it right now. Problem: Jeep is running super rich. I do not think it is ever coming out of closed loop. Points to know: - O2 sensor is recognizing that the jeep is rich. Volts sit between .94V and .99V JEEP RUNS AWESOME. No loss of power. No hesitation. Idles between 900 and 750 - Fuel smell coming from the tailpipe Emissio
  18. Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years whi
  19. Hello I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler 2.5l and I'm having a problem keeping it going it will start and I have to keep my foot in it to keep it going once I let off it will die does not idle then it will not start again what's my problem thanks?
  20. Hello, Once again I have this issue for like 3 years. Trans would not shift from 2nd to 3rd on slow speed by default, it would go into neutral and after I give some more throttle it would downshift to 2nd. If I get to 40 mph or similar, once I release throttle pedal it would shift to 3rd and after that everything works fine - no problem at any speed. So my guesses are that something is stuck in valve body or governor. Until now filter has been replaced, fluid flushed (was red even before flush), TV cable adjusted, bands adjusted. The reasons why I suspect on governor valve is that th
  21. I have a 1997 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0 with 171K miles on the clock. This mechanic at work is making me very nervous telling me that the oil pump on the 4.0L takes a dump between 150 and 200 thou miles and I should be aware of this..Im a worrier and he's got me going now. Anybody have any input on this and what I should do? the engine runs great. When I start it cold it has 50 lbs oil pressure. when its warmed up its 40 while driving and 20 sitting at a light. Sounds normal to me but have any of you had issues with the oil pump? He says when it goes its too late..New motor time..
  22. So I did a trans service on my 1997 TJ. Filter new oil etc. I noticed a leak in one of the lines going to the radiator. I bought a kit on ebay. Hosses, lines and hardware, im really not looking forward to messing with the lines on the trans. The leak is further teard the rad along the frame. So my thinking is to cut the lines up to the bad part and put the new lines via brass fittings. That would be so much easier. My delema? I dont know and cant find anywhere the size of the lined so I can buy fittings beforehand. Can anyone help me with this or has anyone ever changed the lines on the trans
  23. This is driving me nuts..The display on my radio does not light up. A couple of times it came on but now its been off for good I think. The orange wire is the illumination wire and it has no power to it. All the buttons and backlighting work with the dimmer switch..even the radio works but no display because this orange wire..I don't want to start cutting the harness up to find out where the source is. Does anyone know where this orange wire comes from? The light switch ? the ignition switch? All the fuses are good. Could it be a ground wire somewhere? I just want everything to work normally..
  24. I bought this 1997 TJ a couple of months ago with 168 thou on it and am trying to get it up to snuff. Needed a fuel pump { hard to start } now it starts great. So I figured lets do a trans service. I dropped the pan and just what I suspected it hasn't been serviced in a Looooonnnng time. It had some friction material in pan,the oil was like mud and the magnet looked like a hairy spider.It also slipped from second to third pretty bad. I put a new filter and a deep sump pan that holds two more qts of fluid. I also adjusted the bands. Shifted pretty good but with a slight slip from 2-3rd. I chang
  25. My Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L (MPI not TBI) engine has no fuel pressure when it cold. Installed a new fuel pump and pressure regulator, swapped relays. When the Jeep is parked inside it runs and has fuel pressure. When we put the gauge on to check fuel pressure at the rail, inside we get around 39 psi. When we let the Jeep sit outside overnight and check pressure we have none. Any ideas? Thanks.
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