Jump to content
Free Membership Now Includes Posting and Reply Privileges to Help Meet Your Transportation Needs During the COVID-19 Health Crisis! ×


Subscriber Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Keeping / hurting the frame tensile strength was a HUGH concern of mine. After ALOT of reading and then talking to a couple of welders, I preheated the frame to 600-700 degrees, welded then blanket wrapped the weld and let cool. Doing this process took some time but I was told this was the best way to weld on tempered steel/frames. I doubt I'll be doing any serious wheeling, just some light trails. For the most part she'll be a pavement Queen. Thank you for the info/ reminder on the reverse shackles.
  2. This quite the undertaking! The front rt frame was bent. Sooo after some studying. I did some heating and welding I ended up boxing the the front part of the the frame. Actually I did both sides. Time will tell. I got some tempered/hardened metal from a car hauler that was being cut up.
  3. Not sure what Koenig recommends. I used Lucus 80/90 gear oil. It turns VERY smooth, on that I'm very happy. I look at this and compared to today's winches. There's little doubt that this will outlast 98 percent of today's winches.
  4. "I'M BACK" LOL Well this has been a learning experience. I ended up showing the winch to a retired mechanic. He actually worked on a couple of these ol girls in the past. He said I was over thinking, being worried about the way the thrust bearing spins and all. In our talk he said I was right that the gaskets acted as shims in getting proper pressure on the bearings. Two new T88-904A1 bearings some trial and error, 3 gaskets on one side and 2 on the other side and I feel that things will work fine when I get a chance to test it out.
  5. Ok I found this, https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/koenig-pto-winch.624/#lg=_xfUid-6-1575495324&slide=0 . Looking at the diagram, the part numbers for the bearings are different. I have T88 bearings the diagram say KT88 bearings. Right off I'm unable to find a supplier for the KT88 bearing. Timken makes the T88 bearing. I've got to verify the size. https://cad.timken.com/keyword/thrust-tapered-roller-bearings/thrust-osciliating-tapered-roller-bearings-type-tt?keyword=t88&key=product&SchType=2&filter=1#
  6. It's a Koenig winch. I believe its a ??100 model, I added a pic of outer case
  7. Good morning, it's been awhile since I posted anything. Moses I've been cleaning up and checking the winch. I'm not sure it I've got the thrust bearing in correct. You can see in the last pic, there are the caps , the bearing then the gear. When I turn the shaft the ".outside" part of the bearing(next to the cap)starts to turn. The left beaning does the same but not as quick. I've also put up picks of the bearings for reference. Now my thoughts are the "out side" part of the bearing should not be turning. Did I install them backwards? The bearing against the cap, turning, that's NOT good. The bearings are in excellent shape, especially considering the oil that came out.
  8. Moses, I was trying to figure out how the controler worked. Not having a steady supply of vacuum, I was blowing into the controler to determine how it functioned. Having disassemble the controller, nothing appeared to be worn out or missing, which is good! My original thoughts was that on "defrost" ALL of the the air would be diverted to the defrost vents. That is not the case, it appears that it will be split 50, 50. I've tested the diaphragm's and they are holding a vacuum. Soo all I mite do is refinish the controll panel and put things back together.
  9. Been plugging away on my "mistress". It appears that the heater control is intact. But the vacuum does not appear to be working right. The hole at the 10 o-clock position seems to be the supply position. When I place the hose on the the hole at 10 o-clock with the DEF pushed in air blows thru the other 2 holes. With the AIR pushed in , air only comes thru the hole at 4 o-clock. With the OFF pushed in no air flows out of either of the holes. Seems to be a problem with the defrost. Is there anything that can be done? Thanks, Roger
  10. Hello I've been looking at wheels/tires and I need to verify my thoughts with you. Judging for the pics and the measurements shown the stud pattern would be a 5 by 5, correct? As you can see the holes are worn, enlarged. I do not have a tire shop the will test a wheel for proper fit available in my area. So I'll be taking a lot of measurement's to determine the size needed. Most likely 15/16 in by 7 with 5 by 5 bolt pattern. Leaning to the 7 in width due to clearance.
  11. Moses, Haven't quite wrapped my head around backspacing and offset when it comes to wheels. Looking at 2 different wheels first has a back space of 3.75 with a -19 offset. The second one has a 4.03 backspace with a -12 offset. Its my understanding that the 1st one would be better for my 66 cj5 because it pushes the wheel out form the springs, hows the offset come into play. Looking at 15 x 8 with 5x5.5 Thanks
  12. Moses, thanks for the tip on the wiper motors. As for the sending unit I cheated, I thought why not a fitting with a 45 degree angle. So thats what I did. I was going to load a pic but was unable to
  13. I saw that the sender was designed to fit ford motors, I did not know about the ohms, I'll half to do some more research to find one that will fit. I ended up buying new wiper motors like you put on your jeep in your book. Thanks much!
  14. I had purchased a equus elec oil pressure gauge. Finally got to the point to install the sensor. And the sensor is too big in diameter. So my question is there a problem just swapping out sensors, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ps243 ? This one is much smaller diameter. Thanks
  15. I was getting ready to wire the wipers and discovered I have a loose wire inside. Then after reading snopp2x's thread and opening the other motor I find that I'm missing the plastic piece with the brass button. Any ideas??
  • Create New...