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Found 12 results

  1. I inherited a 66cj5 and in time I'd like to restore it, let's say "High hopes!". As far as I can tell there have been no modifications, stock replacement of parts. For now Id rather keep the engine/ ignition/ suspension stock. This may well be a play toy for the wife and I, mild but little wheeling. There are a few things that need attention. First is the wiring, it's been butchered. So is there a source for a direct replacement harness? Second, Tires and Wheels. Im looking at 235 75r 15 tires with some aftermarket rims. My only concern is the way the jeep is geared, is that tire TOO big of a diameter. Seats to be replaced. Oh and the color WILL BE CHANGED!!!! LOL
  2. I sent what I believe to be my jeep's original brake arm to a machinist in Alabama who rebushes a lot of them for members of the Early CJ5 site. As it was being cleaned and then glass-beaded, he realized that unlike any others he had previously seen, this brake arm is made of bronze rather than steel. He started a thread about it with this photo: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/strange-brake-arm.129750/ Apparently, these solid bronze brake arms have been found on a number of '66 & '67 CJ5s (http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/brass-brake-pedal-arm.89095/#post-951636), so it's likely an OEM jeep part. My question is, why would Kaiser Jeep have made some brake arms out of bronze instead of (less expensive) steel in the first place? Do you have any insight on that? The vast majority of the wear on mine was to the (also likely original) steel cross shaft, rather than to the inside diameter of the bronze brake arm pivot. I've always thought that steel is harder than bronze, and would think that the bronze would therefore wear out faster than the steel. Am I wrong about that? Maury
  3. Ok, got my subscriber membership now. So, after not doing much with the jeep the past couple winters due to my snowbike hobby I jumped back in yesterday. I have to reassemble the front axle and clean the rear axle housing. I ran into trouble with the new front wheel studs that came with my new wheel bearing hubs. There is a shoulder behind the knurled section that would not allow proper press-on fit. The jeep parts vendor sold me the wrong studs it appears. Napa was able to look up studs for a scout and I was able to look at one to confirm it will work. A second problem I found was my new rotors that I purchased almost 3 years ago. I went to test fit one and found that the hub hole is too small, under 4” and it needs to be over 4”. They are for a 81-86 CJ. I’m guessing I need mid-70’s.
  4. Hi Moses here are some pics of the 1966 Aussie Willys 4WD Pickup steering box not sure of the brand but it sure needs some seals it all looks original i would not expect it to be a modification i would expect the seals to be same for rhd & i hope that most internal parts will interchange between left & right hand drive but apart from the leaks it seems ok i know there is a lot of play in the steering arm on the lower swivel hub bearing i will have to investigate this issue it may just be loose bolts cheers ian
  5. I have a passion for old stake bed trucks and Jeep FSJ trucks. I just stumbled across a 1963 Jeep Gladiator stake bed truck for sale. I've been catching myself daydreaming about doing a restoration on such a truck both as a show piece (or as close to a show piece as a working truck can be, "parade vehicle" at its best might be a better label) as well as something to use for moving firewood and whatever else I come across that I need to haul. Here is a photo of the truck: I already have my hands full with earlier Jeep projects. Long story short, I guess as much as I want this Gladiator, it may not be practical. Maybe if it was a dually I could make an exception! Just to satisfy my curiosity though, do you know how rare these were? I know that the 1963 MY was the first for these trucks, so if this is truly a 1st year factory stake bed all original pickup, is it a hard to find pieces or were there more made than I realize? As much as I love FSJ trucks, I still have a lot to learn about their history. Bill
  6. Hello fellow jeepers, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my current project. I have an old flat fender that's been in the family for around 30 years that was in dire need of restoration. It's turned into a ground up, the frame was twisted and severed in the middle and the tub was all rusted out. I completely rebuilt the frame, straightened it all out and reinforced the weak areas. I didn't box the frame as I want to retain some flex. I did some extensive panel replacing and patching on the tub and built new floor pans for the front and rear. The axles are stock D44 rear and a custom built super 44 up front. I still have the Dana 18 tore apart, but ready for assembly. I had to find a shop that could replace and fit a new bushing for the output shaft. Other than that it's getting a full rebuild kit. The Jeep has a T19 from an IH, it is still in great shape and will only get a small parts kit. The engine that was in it was a tired 225 with a cracked block. I got a couple other oddfires when I bought the Jeep and decided to rebuild another 225. After going through the cleaning machine, my machinist found some deep pitting in some of the cylinders. The block was already .030 and with advice from TA Performance we took it to .070 and they ordered me some .020 Buick 350 pistons from Egge. Apparently they have seen a 225 bored .090 over without structural or cooling issues. Once I had those my shop sent everything in for a full balance. They refreshed the heads with new springs, exhaust valves+hardened seats, valve job,and new seals. I did some minor porting and cleaned up the runners to smooth the air flow. It's not a race engine but even the small improvements go a long ways. I still need to port match the heads in addition to the offy intake and the headers. I had Delta cam in Tacoma build a strong low-end torque cam. I was searching for some info last night, do you know what the combustion chamber size is on the 225 heads? Egge couldn't tell me what to expect for static c.r. That's probably enough for now. I'll post pictures in the days to come.
  7. So I am in the process of a total restoration on my 67 CJ5 v6 225 and have reached the transmission rebuild. I found a damaged first/reverse sliding gear and cluster gear. Question is should I pay the high cost of the t86 gears ( cluster $ 220.00 / first gear $ 125.00 ) or do I find t-90 parts and convert it? The first gear is almost impossible to find, I only found one after a week of searching. I would have to find used T-90 parts to make it cost effective but then there are no guarantees I will spend less to convert than to just get the t-86 parts. I do not plan on abusing the jeep off road when done. Also can I get away with grinding the teeth of the first sliding gear ( bottom photo ) a bit to dress them up rather than replacing ? The other side of gear not shown is good. Thoughts ? Damaged parts:
  8. There you go, Moses! It's going to be my first attempt at an engine rebuild... Starting the tear down. This Jeep spent most of its driving life on a tow bar being towed to NY for the hunting season. The engine has very low actual miles on it.
  9. Do you have contact information for the Mopar Underground? I'm specifically interested in their Willys wagon on a YJ chassis project. I have a stock '64 wagon daily driver. For years I've thought about building a modernized but still original-looking version so I could keep up with freeway traffic. By the time I count up all the improvements that should be done, it seems like it might be less trouble to use a complete chassis where all the parts already work with each other. I've looked at Wagoneer, Scout, S-10 and even full-size pickup conversions. They all look great until you get into the details. Then they become more trouble than they're worth. From the articles I've read in JP, Truck Trend, Popular Mechanics, etc. they make the YJ chassis sound almost like a bolt-on. But phrases like "minor trimming" and "slight tweaking" come up. The pictures of the final product look exactly like what I want, but they don't show any pictures the work in progress, specifically the interference points and what had to be cut or altered to make it fit. I suspect that their definition of "slight", and "minor" may be different from mine, since I don't have access to the Chrysler engineering department. This is something that I'd like to have, not something I have to have. I'd like more information before I dive into a project that's likely to become a career.
  10. While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear.
  11. We once referred to vintage Jeep 4x4s as the most modified and cannibalized vehicles on the planet. Beginning with WWII surplus MB Willys Jeep models, most off-road rigs got a good dose of upgrades, from oversized tires to V-8 conversions. So popular was the modification approach that in the Chrysler/Jeep Mopar era, we refer to the Jeep as the most "personalized" vehicle around, with catalogs full of accessories, chassis upgrades and winches. Today, for the first time, vintage Jeep vehicles have shown a bump in value, even finding their way to Mecum and other auctions alongside vintage collectible cars and nostalgia muscle cars. With that trend, for the first time, a vintage Jeep is judged for its originality and an authentic restoration. So, we're at a crossroads. What do you think about modifying a 1941-86 Jeep 4x4 for extreme trail use? Or are you considering a bolt-by-bolt restoration of a vintage Model MB, CJ-3B, an M38AI, FC150, FC170, Willys Pickup or Willys Station Wagon? Please share your plans and thoughts on this subject! Moses
  12. If you're struggling with how to remove the rear wheel hubs from a keyed, tapered rear axle shaft, check out my HD video how-to on the use of an OTC hub puller: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html. There's only one way to preserve these parts and get the rear hub loose...Also works on the AMC Model 20 axles and even later model 4x4s with unit bearing front ends and frozen axle shafts... Moses
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