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Found 4 results

  1. New to the Jeep family and picked up a '68 CJ5 Willys Overland. Needs a little work. 225 dauntless odd fire, SM 420 4-spd, Model 20 Spicer transfer case, Saturn overdrive, Dana 44 Jeep Wagoneer axles, 538 gears and Warren hubs. Current issue is that after it warms up, it stalls out. Sit for a few minutes and you can start back up and go another 1/4 mile or so before repeating the issue. A couple of thoughts that may be causing this.... mechanical fuel pump going bad, coil collapsing, distributor issue?? It does have the Rochester 2 jet, single barrel carburetor on with stock manifod. Thanks in advance for feedback.
  2. Hello. I'm new to the forum. I have an 82 CJ7 with a fresh rebuild 258 and the Hesco MPI installed by myself. At low power the engine runs fine. But under load, say going uphill or when giving a sudden throttle input in a higher gear, the engine begins to misfire or cut out as though one or more cylinders are not firing. If I ease up on the throttle it recovers. If not it shudders pretty bad until I do. If I go easy on the throttle the problem does not occur. Only under load. At cruise speed on the freeway it mostly runs good, but occasionally I do feel a slight power loss as though I am dragging a cylinder. The plugs are clean so I don't suspect an ignition issue. It acts like its running out of gas. Thoughts or suggestions much appreciated. Lou
  3. I just helped a friend install a rebuilt engine into his son’s 2000 Jeep TJ with a 4 cylinder 2.5L, manual trans and 4WD. He got the engine as a long block so we only had to reuse the tin covers, ignition and fuel systems. He got it from a reputable nationwide rebuilder so we are not concerned with dumb mistakes like timing chain installed incorrectly issues etc. We installed distributor as described in the service manual (TDC on 1 of compression stroke with 3/16 pin thru Camshaft Position Sensor and distributor housing etc.). The crankshaft position sensor is a two bolt type so no adjustment needed. I’m aware the PCM controls the timing so we can’t do anything with that. I’m assuming the CKP is working because we are getting flashes from the timing light. When trying to start the engine it kicks and bucks with an occasional backfire thru the throttle body. We connected a timing light to number one and looked for the initial timing around the marks on the timing cover but it appears the mark on the balancer is showing up at about 50 degrees after TDC. We have triple checked everything (firing order, sensor connections etc.) but can’t figure out how to get it running. We tried putting the PCM in learning mode by disconnecting battery and holding positive and negative together for several hours to try to drain the capacitor that keep PCM memory alive. We also did the ignition ON, headlights ON and then OFF, ignition OFF procedure. After putting in learning mode we disconnected the fuel pump fuse so we could crank the engine long enough for the CKP to figure out what is going on. Does anyone have any ideas on where to look next?
  4. Moses, In another thread you recommended the Hickok (WAE7652WA) Coil on Plug Quick Probe II. When I went to amazon I found the Waekon 76562 Coil Over Plug Quick Probe with Variable Sensitivity http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0021UPE58/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i2_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=19GMKDP3NT5P1FBKQHYB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop . Is there any difference except the $15.00 or so savings on the Waekon? I would also like to know if either come with instructions and if the Hickok needs to be hit before it will operate? This seems like a strange tool, but so does the Lisle 20700. I have no idea how that might work. If anyone else has a comment I would accept your comments as well. Just because I address something to Moses doesn't mean I will dismiss your experience. Thanks.
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