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Found 8 results

  1. Hello Moses, would you happen to know of any Jeep mechanic's in the Chicago area that could help me finish my rebuild o my Jeep. Simon
  2. Hello Moses, I got one that I need help to try and fix. The clutch arm assembly that connects from the transmission to the the plate on the fire wall that connects to the clutch is supposed to be on a 90 degree angle. I have a 3" body lift and this is causing the arm to be on a 80 degree angle or so. It works and has worked but I would like to fix it. I believe I know the solution but need your opinion or what you would do. The plate that is on the firewall that has the eye hook that the arm connects to needs to come down 2" to 3" , then the arm would be at 90 degrees. I can't find a plate that is longer, I was thinking to take off the plate that is on, weld on a new steel plate that is longer, weld on the old plate to the new one to make it work? I have purchased a rugged ridge heavy duty clutch link kit https://www.quadratec.com/products/52026_1010.htm for the extension. It's the plate with the eye hook that I am having a problem with. I hope you see and understand my issue, if not, please ask me and I can send more pics or give more details of the problem. Good Day Simon
  3. Hello, I am rebuilding my 1977 Jeep CJ7 inline 6 4.2L. I am stuck on finding this part as shown in the picture. The radiator hose hooks up to the engine block here and I can't seem to find the part that screws into this. It's small, I got a 3/8" connector, still to big, my radiator hose is 5/8". I bought this part from Summit (Fitting, Adapter, NPT to Hose Barb, 45 Degree, Stainless Steel, Natural, 3/8 in. NPT, 5/8 in. Hose Barb,) see pic below. I have tried everything to find this part and until then my build is at a standstill, please help. Thank you Simon
  4. Greetings and thanks for the opportunity to share my story and hopefully get some insight on what's going on with my ol' trusty Jeep. I have an '83 CJ-7 with a parasitic draw that I have been unable to isolate. This problem has presented only recently. I have inspected it in pitch dark and have found no lights burning, either on the outside or interior/dash. It has a new battery. I have attempted to use a digital voltmeter to assess the current being drawn but I get variable readings (sometimes zero) despite the fact that I always see a little spark when I reconnect the knife-type battery cutoff. When I did measure a current, I have pulled each blade-type fuse individually from the fuse box without any drop in the reading. There are no "extra" devices currently wired outside of the fuse box like lights or radios. Leaving the battery connected results in a completely depleted battery in just a few hours. Since this problem started, I've had a couple of times that the engine wouldn't shut off. I replaced the ignition switch with a new Duralast unit which works as expected, but I still have the parasitic draw. My question is, could anyone provide a logical progression of diagnostic steps beyond what I've done already?
  5. I am the owner of a 1986 CJ7 I had everything rebuilt carburetor generator radiator blah blah blah put in a rebuilt motor I purchased. Wasn’t happy with carburetion so I added a Howell electronic feel ignition system . Now it runs great spontaneously it will start acting like it’s starving for fuel, check engine light coming on permanently or flashing at different times I can pretty much always do the speed limit and drive it but it will not always perform well
  6. Moses, I have watched your videos regarding how to approach a stroker motor. I have read tons of info on the internet, and I've seen many calculators for quench height, combustion cylinder volume, etc. It really is baffling to me, and I've begun to realize I could invest a lot of money and end up with an engine that doesn't work. Is there any identifying info on the block that would allow you (or someone) to write me a "recipe" for what parts I need to build up a stroker? I'm realizing that the added weight of the full size truck axles and 38" tires are going to necessitate more power. I've been thinking about Ford 302 power, as I have secured a 1993 EEC IV harness and computer, but that swap has its own challenges. I always thought a stroker was the best way to spice up my powertrain, and I still like the idea if I can be relatively certain if what parts I need to buy to get it right the first time. Please let me know what you think.
  7. Hi Im installing a new axleshaft and hub I've pressed the bearing on and slid the shaft in but the bearing doesn't seat flush is it supposed to be sticking out a 1/2 inch? I've slid the old one in and it's the same 1/2 inch sticking out does the brake plate suck it in place?
  8. Moses, I am pressing forward with the reverse engineering and documentation of my 85 CJ7. I have run into a snag and hope you can shed some light. The front axle has been upgraded to a dana 44. The wheel base appears to be the stock wide track CJ of 56" WMS to WMS. Both Inner axles appear to be custom length (28 7/8" and 15 1/2") 30 spline. Now for the question. The outer axles do not appear to be customized and at first appearance seem to be "CJ" (8.72" 27 Spline) CJ spindle, 6 bolt locking hubs, 6 bolt brake caliper and rotor, and etc, however the outer axles have the larger 1.188" cup size yoke. (5-760X u-joint). Can you identify what vehicle class these outer axles are native too? Through my research, I found a few axles with the larger cup yokes and 27 splines, but I have been unable to positively identify one with the correct length. They are either too long or in most cases do not publish a length. The yoke casting markings are "Spicer", "F36616", and "M5 L866". Google does not hit on these numbers. Any insight you may have will be appreciated. William
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