Moses Ludel

Actually, Jeep did design the military M38A1 (prototype for the CJ-5) with front spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs. The earliest CJ-5 was built on this frame. My 1955 CJ-5 featured in the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 has this frame as stock equipment. The U.S. military M38A1 or "MD" and its military export equivalent stayed in steady production from 1951 (began replacing the MC or M38 flatfender that year) until 1968, some units may have been built as late as 1971. You're right about the rear shackle bracket being riveted to the frame. The front shackle brackets bolt into place with the nuts in the frame being the notorious type that partner with "self-cutting thread" bolts. This same approach was used by AMC on the skid plate frame nuts that often spin loose during bolt removal and require tack welding a new (i.e., real and graded) nut into the frame. These bolt-threaded frame nuts were apparently a production time saver for pneumatic assembly line wrenches. They required very hard (i.e., less ductile and more prone to snapping) self-tapping bolts and compliant frame nuts. Note: Use care removing these shackle bracket and skid plate bolts, they often seize and snap during removal. I soak frame nut threads with penetrant and use an air impact wrench/gun cautiously. In my experience, hand wrench removal is more likely to twist the heads off these bolts. Impact force can work to advantage if used properly. For those who want to keep the stock shackle orientation, there are ways to upgrade the bolt-on front shackle brackets. Years ago, as featured in my Jeep Owner's Bible, friend Kirk Rogers and I produced the Westfir Engineering front shackle bracket replacements that worked with the stock spring anchor positions. These sturdy, extended brackets picked up the additional support of forward bumper bolt holes and provided added support forward of the bushing eyes. This eliminated the OE "hanging out" eye end and overcame the stock bracket's glaring punch hole weakness at the frame rivet. This bolt-on bracket provided additional support and worked well, substantially improving the front shackle mounting method. We passed the sturdy design to Full-Traction Suspension, not sure whether they still offer this solution or preserved our original design. Here are some currently available shackle reversal kits to review before making your decision: 1) http://www.4wheelpar...HEu0aApZk8P8HAQ 2) http://www.4wd.com/J...f8bwaAk4_8P8HAQ 3) http://www.4wheelpar...OrdsaAvUI8P8HAQ These are examples, you'll get the idea. Some incorporate a frame structural cross brace, which is not a bad idea with an LS V-8 installation. In any case, there's an obvious market and reason for these kits. Be aware that this is chassis work that requires several considerations: 1) The axle must be located in its original position. I take measurements in "diamond" from front axle to rear axle and follow stock wheelbase measurements. The precise wheelbase (wheel vertical centerline-to-centerline) for your 1981 Jeep CJ-7 is 93.4 inches. 2) Front driveline must not compress too far on upswing of the axle, as the arc is now from the front end of the springs, which takes the axle rearward as the springs flatten under compression. Obviously, the splines in the front driveline spline coupler must be within normal range of travel within the coupler. 3) A quality kit should consider front axle caster adjustment. Steering caster is critical, and final caster angle should be at least 4-degrees positive, some use up to 6-degrees for tighter "motor grader" turning and assured steering return to center. Caster angle can be accomplished with proper spring arch and perch locations. If necessary, steel (not aluminum) wheel alignment wedges can be placed between the axle spring perches and the springs to rotate the axle housing for precise caster setting. 4) These kits do require drilling and welding. The welding should be done to professional grade, as this is a safety modification. If the instructions are complete, the measurements for placement of the brackets and sleeves will be included. You might seek out these instructions before committing to a shackle reversal kit. If measurements are accurate, you still have the Old Man Emu lift spring concern about the 1/2-inch adjustment. Take this into consideration before permanently positioning the brackets or rear frame sleeves. Note: Some shackle reversal kits have a built-in lift like 1.5". This would require a rear spring consideration, possibly installation of longer, heavy-duty rear shackles, followed by adjusting the rear axle pinion angle (steel wedges if necessary). Be aware that any CJ lift in the 4"-plus range will require driveline length modifications. 5) Since the shackle reversal does require frame changes, make sure the approach is what you want. "Restoring" to stock would be a fabrication chore later. I have done the shackle reversal on both Jeep and Land Cruiser FJ40 chassis with great success. In the case of an unquestionably short wheelbase (90") for towing FJ40, I did a reversal kit prior to pulling a 21' travel trailer. With a load distribution hitch and anti-sway brake, this setup worked well in Mojave Desert crosswinds and on curvy roads. The biggest gain is not pushing the front axle forward from OE rear spring anchors at the frame. In my experience, the trailing front axle makes for more precise steering and reduced risk of wander. Caution: I do not endorse or recommend pulling hefty or lengthy trailers with short wheelbase vehicles! The Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser was very short for this kind of trailering; however, it had a comparatively wider track width, more like a full-size pickup truck. I chose the tow equipment carefully, and this '80s OFF-ROAD Magazine project had a lift kit, stiff springs, a Saginaw power steering conversion with one-piece draglink and a one-piece tie-rod, 10" wide (with negative offset) wheels and 33x12.5x15 tires to counter the lift kit's raised center-of-gravity. When loss of control under braking is alluded, I often find that the steering linkage alignment is off. Upon hard braking, there is bump steer or in this case veering caused by a radically sloping tie-rod or draglink that steers the vehicle (typically to the right in left-hand drive 4x4s with a beam axle) sharply and abruptly. Steering linkage alignment over the range of axle travel is critical for preventing bump steer, regardless of the leaf spring anchor location. If you install any one of these kits or another, please let us know whether the design and instructions clarify the mounting locations for the brackets. Is the kit easy to set up and install? The Old Man Emu springs must be longer than stock CJ if the front shackles require relocation. Let us know how you resolve this with a shackle reversal if you do install a kit. Your photos are great. Thanks! Moses

To separate the topics, we've moved the shackle reversal kit discussion to a new topic at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/486-front-shackle-reversal-on-a-1976-86-jeep-cj-4x4/. For those interested in that discussion, please join us at the "Front Shackle Reversal on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ 4x4". This brake topic will continue here...Please follow and contribute at these two topic discussions! Moses

As for the front shackle supports, since you have to move the brackets forward, this would be a good time to consider a front shackle reversal kit that puts the spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs. The front axle then "trails" behind the anchors. The vehicle tracks better with the front axle trailing from the forward-mounted anchors—instead of the front axle being pushed down the road by OE rear anchors and the leaf springs. When you encounter an obstacle off-road with the shackle reversal, the front axle will lift up readily instead of driving all the thrust into the frame at the OEM rear anchor positions before compressing (lengthwise) the springs and ultimately "popping" the front axle upward. Since you're configuring the shackle position anyway, it is also practical to install reverse shackle brackets at this time and re-hang the shackles at the rear of the front springs. If you look at your OEM frame shackle brackets, they are a poor design. AMC/Jeep punched a relief hole for clearing a frame rivet. This relief hole also creates a weak area in the shackle bracket, and these factory bolt-on brackets are notorious for breaking or bending under load or during spring and axle articulation...another good reason for installing an aftermarket shackle reversal kit. If you install a shackle reversal kit at the front end, take careful measurements to avoid altering the front axle location, wheelbase length or creating a front driveline length issue. The front driveshaft must be able to extend and compress properly under full spring travel and articulation, without compromising the spline coupler engagement or bottoming the coupler under driveline compression. As for loss of control under hard braking with a shackle reversal kit installed, I can't imagine how that would happen. With a shackle reversal kit installed, braking would pull the frame to a stop as the front axle and brakes apply. Force would be pulling at the front mounted frame anchors in the same way the rear braking currently works. With the OEM anchors at the rear end of the front springs, the front axle and brakes slow the vehicle by applying force rearward through the leaf springs to the anchors mounted to the frame at the rear end of the front springs. In these two scenarios, I'd take my chances on brakes that slow the frame in a pulling fashion, rather than brakes that slow the vehicle by applying force through the aft ends of the front leaf springs. Shock absorber design and choices play a role here, too. There is also the question of a stabilizer bar. On your CJ, the stabilizer bar helps keep the frame/body as level as possible on cornering. During braking, the axle stays in lateral alignment due to the inherent design of leaf springs and their bushings—if the bushings are in good condition and of the right durometer or hardness. Many remove the stabilizer bar to avoid installing the necessary longer links required with a lift kit—or to increase the range of axle articulation, which can be facilitated by using quick disconnect stabilizer links when off-roading. Quality lift kits include stabilizer bar quick disconnect links of the right length to compensate for the lift. Without a stabilizer bar, the vehicle acts like a vintage Jeep 4x4 on the highway: Cornering stability relies strictly on the leaf spring resistance and the condition of the spring bushings, shackles and anchors. As a point of interest, the 1987-95 YJ Wrangler uses a similar chassis layout to the CJ-7 yet adds a track bar along with the use of a stabilizer bar and links. The track bar holds the front (or rear) solid/beam axle in a more precise lateral alignment as the axle rises and sets. This contributes to better handling on-highway. Semi-elliptic leaf springs, by design, provide a higher degree of lateral stability. Link-and-coil suspension (or single radius arm suspension like a Ford F150 4x4) requires a track bar to keep the front or rear axle from floating uncontrollably sideways or laterally. Moses

Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses

Sounds like good progress around the brake system, David...As for the front shackle supports, since you have to move the brackets forward, this would be a good time to consider a front shackle reversal kit that puts the spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs. The front axle then "trails" behind the anchors. The vehicle tracks better with the front axle trailing from the forward-mounted anchors—instead of the front axle being pushed down the road by OE rear anchors and the leaf springs. When you encounter an obstacle off-road with the shackle reversal, the front axle will lift up readily instead of driving all the thrust into the frame at the OEM rear anchor positions before compressing (lengthwise) the springs and ultimately "popping" the front axle upward. Since you're configuring the shackle position anyway, it is also practical to install reverse shackle brackets at this time and re-hang the shackles at the rear of the front springs. If you look at your OEM frame shackle brackets, they are a poor design. AMC/Jeep punched a relief hole for clearing a frame rivet. This relief hole also creates a weak area in the shackle bracket, and these factory bolt-on brackets are notorious for breaking or bending under load or during spring and axle articulation...another good reason for installing an aftermarket shackle reversal kit. If you install a shackle reversal kit at the front end, take careful measurements to avoid altering the front axle location, wheelbase length or creating a front driveline length issue. The front driveshaft must be able to extend and compress properly under full spring travel and articulation, without compromising the spline coupler engagement or bottoming the coupler under driveline compression. Historically, I've not been a big fan of fiberglass bodies unless one lives in the Rust Belt. Quality steel replacement bodies are available, they generally fit better, require less hardware adaptation and provide sufficient electrical grounds for body mounted D.C. devices and lighting. I encourage those with recent experience around Jeep fiberglass bodies to add their comments. Moses

Rocket Doctor...I hadn't considered Lenco. They have been building custom drag racing transmissions for a long time. Trick stuff, including CO2 powered shifters... This may be what jeepstroker needs...Thanks much for sharing the link! Trust you had a fun Thanksgiving with the family. Moses

We share an appreciation for outdoor recreation. Whether you're a hardcore four-wheeler, quad or side-by-side rider, dirt motorcyclist or avid outdoor recreationalist who hikes trails or plies waterways in a kayak or canoe, a fundamental requirement is physical fitness. Lack of fitness leads to injuries that can end your favorite pursuits. This forum provides the space and a platform for sharing health and fitness experiences while inspiring each other to be healthier and more physically fit! A common misconception has crept into the outdoor community in recent decades. Many believe that lack of fitness simply means turning to another kind of vehicle for our motorized recreation. This can take the form of abandoning dirt motorcycling and buying a quad or side-by-side. Or maybe selling the quad and buying a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 4x4. In either case, it's assumed that the new vehicle type will be less demanding physically and allow continued access to outdoor recreation. Note: I can fully subscribe to this if an individual has severe impairment; however, I would also draw attention to guys like Jake Munoz, Jesse Williamson, Chris Ridgway and Fred Meyling. Jake has been through seven major spinal surgeries and drives the Rubicon Trail in his heavily modified flatfender Jeep CJ. Jesse Williamson is the first double amputee U.S. combat vet to compete in the Baja 1000 on a dirt motorcycle, and Jesse has now raced the 2013 Baja 1000, the 2014 Baja 500 and the 2014 Baja 1000 on the Warrior Built team with 1st Sgt. Nick Hamm and other combat vet riders. Fred Meyling, a career Army officer, is now paraplegic. He has driven on the Rubicon Trail in a Jeep 4x4. Jake Munoz talks about the imperative need to rehabilitate with physical training in our interview at the magazine. Jake's exercise regimen is phenomenal and an inspiration to anyone rehabilitating from injuries or a surgery. Another example is the modern outdoorsman/hunter paradigm where the use of a 4x4, quad or side-by-side has taken the place of traditional on-foot or horse packing hunts. When I was a bit younger, a day's mule deer hunt could be a hike of 6-8 miles in rugged, mountainous terrain with my lever action .30 caliber Winchester long rifle (open semi-buckhorn sights) in hand. Today, many hunters boast of walking less than 50 yards from their winch equipped quad or side-by-side to a downed animal. This has many implications, but for the purpose of this forum, I'll stick to the matter of physical fitness. Also overlooked is the fact that lack of physical conditioning is dangerous. An out of shape recreationalist crawling the Rubicon Trail in a 4x4 or the unconditioned urbanite from sea level hunting elk at 12,000 feet in the Rockies is at extreme risk. If the quad, side-by-side or 4x4 becomes stuck or breaks down, stacking rocks or walking back to the nearest paved road could prove deadly. I've been an active member of the 4x4 community for over a half century now. I'm also an avid outdoorsperson and physical fitness advocate. One observation worth sharing is that an out of condition four-wheeler is at risk under the best of circumstances, and anyone is vulnerable here. The annual Easter Jeep Safari at Moab provides an excellent metaphor. Without muscle tone, knocking around on the rocks in the best equipped 4x4 can be brutal on the spine, kidneys and other vital organs. If core and other muscles are weak and lax (with characteristic omentum girth hanging over one's belt), bouncing around all day in a 4x4 or quad can cause internal organ, spinal and skeletal distress or damage. One of the best means for preventing a "bad back" is building a strong set of core muscles. Cardio-vascular fitness is also paramount, especially when traveling from low elevations to high altitude recreation. Years ago, I guided a media launch over Imogene Pass in 4WD Geo Trackers for Chevrolet. As we approached the summit of nearly 14,000 feet, a Seattle-based colleague became cyanotic. Though summertime, he characterized his symptoms as "the flu". I spotted the blue lips and lightheadedness immediately as "altitude sickness" and quickly got the group to Telluride before driving my fellow journalist to Farmington, New Mexico where enough atmosphere and oxygen led to his full recovery. (This was a judgment call, the alternative was a trip to the Telluride hospital's emergency room.) Dehydration and genetic factors play a large role with altitude sickness, and a period of acclimatizing does help here. However, this was an individual whose most strenuous activity was getting in and out of a Geo Tracker to take photos, and he had lapsed into a severely threatening health state. There is also the case of overdoing exercise. One of my brothers-in-law has an expression that aptly applies to his fitness level and penchant for outdoor pursuits. An avid bow hunter, he refers to his zealous gym time on the elliptical machine as "an 18-year-old brain in a 66-year-old body!" This has led to a forthcoming knee replacement following an athletic and physical life that included many years of pounding asphalt with running shoes to maintain his cardio fitness. There are limits and the need for balance here. I have a major incentive for staying physically fit that my wife would likely characterize in my brother-in-laws terms. (Actually, he's a year older than I am.) My metaphor for staying fit is the Honda XR650R dirt motorcycle and vintage '84 XR350R. Each bike demands physical fitness. While riding dirt motorcycles in the desert or on rocky trials-like terrain is highly physical and constantly works the five major muscle groups, this cannot be my sole exercise regimen. In fact, after a long period of inconsistent exercise, I went to the gym faithfully for four months before returning to dirt motorcycling. The best way to avoid injury in any athletic or outdoor recreational pursuit is physical conditioning. I'll gladly share my lifetime routine and commitment to reasonable physical conditioning and nutrition. None of us is exempt from the negative impact of poor conditioning or nutrition. Despite this, each of us has gone through periods of neglect and even avoidance of exercise and proper nutrition. Some of the health and fitness commitment is aspiration, some inspiration, and ultimately the resolution is consistent perspiration...Considering our growing number of forums members, we should be able to build an impressive information base from our conditioning and nutritional experiences. It begins right here! Moses

David...When you look at the combination valve illustrated in the PDF (lower page), there are three functions: 1) Hold-Off, 2) Warning Switch and 3) Proportioning. Again, this brake system is a disc front with drum rear brakes. The warning switch provides the lamp signal if one end of the brake hydraulic system or the other should fail. If your new master cylinder does not have a common fluid reservoir and is a divided cylinder with separate fluid reservoirs for front and rear brakes, there will be individual fluid supplies to the front brakes and the rear brakes. This provides a safety factor if one end of the brake system fails or leaks. You would not have the failure/warning switch and a lamp signal, though. There may be aftermarket switches available for warning lamps. One switch would be required for the front system, one for the rear. I would agree that a short wheelbase Jeep CJ-7 with stiff springs and big tires is far less likely to transfer/pitch weight forward and lighten the rear of the vehicle (i.e., cause rear wheel lockup) under hard braking. If you follow their advice and leave the proportioning valve out, test the brake system cautiously and thoroughly in a safe environment... Hydraulic pressure boost, if you mean the OEM type that receives pressurized fluid from the power steering pump, is well tested. My Dodge Ram/Cummins 3500 truck and other diesel trucks (with no engine vacuum source) use a hydraulic brake booster. GM has used this type of boost since the '80s on light truck brake systems. I worked as a GMC truck dealership powertrain, chassis and warranty mechanic when these boosters first came into the market on 6.2L diesel powered full-size Jimmy and pickup models. The booster can be reliable and provide the kind of pressure desired when the engine is running. (Vacuum boost requires a running engine, too. Under the best conditions, you will only get a few pedal pumps of vacuum boost once the engine stalls.) A major advantage with a hydraulic booster is the space saving over a large vacuum booster. This can help with engine access, space for accessories and underhood tidiness. Will you be using an iron tandem master cylinder with dual reservoirs? Curious what master cylinder is paired with the hydraulic booster...Do you have a photo of the unit or link to the product website? Does this setup require a special power steering pump supplied with the package, or do you use an OEM GM power steering pump for an LS engine? Keep us posted! Moses

David, I'm glad this is useful...Regarding the explanation of a combination valve, I'll begin with a brief anecdote. I've always been "academic", which comes as no surprise to the forum members! In the early '80s, I was teaching Automotive Technology at the San Diego Job Corps facility, and on our shoestring budget, we bought a used 1972 Buick Riviera. (The 455 V-8 was emission detuned that year with lower compression, yet the torque was still impressive.) I highly value automotive and truck OEM and professional trade manuals, and to my great satisfaction, this one-owner car came with a factory workshop manual in the trunk. Of course, I used the book faithfully for service work, and the early '70s Buicks did not require much beyond routine maintenance. (The largest task was removal of the cylinder heads for a valve job.) That book was packed with wisdom pearls, as GM had a wonderful habit of explaining the function of components, not just how to replace them. The book shares details on the early combination valve design and purpose. I've applied this useful information as an adult education instructor, journalist and author (including my Jeep, Ford, GM and Toyota truck books). It seems only fitting to share GM's insightful information as provided to dealerships and the professional trade. Here is the official definition with a cutaway schematic depicting a 1970s circa GM combination valve. (Zoom-in for detail.): GM Description of Combination Valve.pdf Note the comments on the combination valve's "Hold-Off" function to accommodate rear drum brakes that have brake shoes with return springs. This description covers vehicles like your factory CJ-7 brakes. With four-wheel disc brakes, the dynamic changes. The brakes at all four wheels have disc calipers, pads and rotors. Also catch the GM comment about the elimination of the proportioning function on vehicles with high rear wheel loads. This also applies to a vehicle that has less tendency to pitch forward under hard braking. Rear wheel lock-up occurs most often when the weight on the rear wheels becomes light from the vehicle's weight pitching forward. A shorter wheelbase Jeep CJ-7 with wide axles, stiff leaf springs all around, likely gas charged shocks, and weighty oversized tires has less tendency to pitch forward under braking. Some of us have worked with GM trucks that use a factory manual proportioning valve at the rear axle. We had mid-'80s Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4s with this mechanical linkage and proportioning valve at the rear axle. As the vehicle weight pitches forward under hard braking, the rear axle-to-frame distance increases. Mechanical linkage rotates a valve at the rear axle's hydraulic system. This decreases hydraulic pressure to the rear drum brakes to help prevent rear tire/wheel lockup. When the truck has a trailer with a load distribution/equalizer hitch weighting the rear of the vehicle, the frame height is more level, allowing full brake pressure application at the rear brakes...Think of this as a factory "mechanical linkage proportioning valve"! In the PDF illustration, note that GM uses a pin at the front of the combination valve to permit proper bleeding of the brake system. On this GM combination valve, you depress the pin to bleed the front brakes...Similarly, on your Jeep CJ-7 OEM system, there is a special tool that holds a shuttle valve on the combination valve in a specific position during brake bleeding. There are differences between the GM valve and Jeep type. Moses

Biggman100...Don't get my wife started on my "keeping stuff" and storage sheds. Wife Donna and your wife should not compare notes! Donna subscribes to the theory that if you haven't used something in the last six month, you don't need it. Tools and equipment? Can that apply here? We consciously chose to 'downsize' in 2009, selling our 3 acres with home and "dream shop" at Yerington. The move to Fernley involved compressing a 2400 square foot automotive shop-studio (plus 600 square feet of "bonus storage" above the office) into a suburban home with a 3-car garage. I strategically restructured the former shop as a 480 square foot shop studio. (Tall, custom built 100 mph wind proof carports provide sanctuary for the magazine's vehicles.) This move provided an opportunity to draw the line on what to keep, and my metaphor became the loaded question, "What would our kids do with this stuff?" At the time, 33 years of marriage and children had included shuffling my "pack rat" overage through numerous moves, from Nevada to Oregon, Oregon to California, California back to Oregon and, finally, back to Nevada in 1994. The inventory? Visualize the usual accumulation plus scores of heavy boxes packed with magazines, essentially my published work, dating from the early '80s to 2008. Add to that the "important scraps of paper" and memorabilia related to who knows what... I parked the car hauling trailer within the shop and parallel to the office, installed the 4-foot plywood sideboards on the trailer, went upstairs to the "bonus room" mezzanine storage area, sorted stuff sensibly, and tossed every bit of "What would the kids and grandkids do with this?" overage over the railing and into the car hauler. Two trips to the transfer station, with the tandem axles and tires crushed each time, benefited from the generous use of the station's backhoe to drag the weighty mass of paper and "stuff" out of the trailer. Finally, things were in perspective. The accumulated home exercise equipment, yes, the kind that eventually serves as clothes racks, went to the Boys & Girls Club. In the end, we kept the house square footage and downsized the shop, added a 10' x 20' shed now bearing items "to go through soon", and have made the 480 square feet of shop-studio work. I am very comfortable with this arrangement, as it is a shop backdrop much like others—those with a home garage, a small commercial shop or a pole barn...I intend to do an HD video soon on which tools and equipment are vital for a highly productive, fully functional yet compact automotive and fabricating shop—without wasting space on overage and pack ratting...Just as soon as I get the current project out of my 480 square foot, downsized shop! Moses

Fantastic photos, David! Shop looks great, reminds me of our rural home and shop at Yerington, Nevada. We lived and worked from that property for 15 years (1994-2009), and the shop was backdrop for several books, including the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals! I like your John Deere tractor, too. My hydraulic "engine lift" was a compact John Deere 4310 diesel 4x4 with front end loader and scraper box...Smooth control there, great alternative to a cherry picker! My approach with upgrade brake systems and brake master cylinders, boosters and proportioning valves is to model after a similar OEM system. For example, if your entire braking system will be Chevy 1/2-ton caliper, I would consider a master cylinder that has dimensions like the OE donor or facsimile truck. When I refer to dimensions, I mean two critical things: 1) piston or bore diameter and 2) stroke of the piston. The master cylinder must displace the correct amount of brake fluid for the size of the calipers at the wheels. The booster must be a match for the master cylinder, and the linkage from the pedal into the booster, and the booster into the master cylinder, must have proper settings. There are aftermarket master cylinder/booster combinations available that also meet these requirements and will specifically fit your Jeep chassis. We discuss this at a forum post by 60Bubba, and his approach for a CJ-7 like yours looks practical: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/437-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-upgrade-for-a-cj-7-jeep/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster. 60Bubba shares that the setup fits well. Read down the thread, there are back and forth comments and sharing of important points. See my comments about setting up pedal linkage free play and booster pushrod clearance. Make sure the piston fluid displacement works with 4-wheel disc brakes and calipers like you have planned. You need a master cylinder capable of handling front and rear disc brake calipers, not just two calipers (front) and two drum brake (rear) wheel cylinders like a stock 1981 CJ-7. There are three other topic posts that provide additional insight: 1) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/216-dana-44-front-axle-swap-into-1985-jeep-cj-7/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster#entry2188; 2) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/396-changing-1985-jeep-cj-7-from-manual-to-power-brakes/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster#entry2077 and 3) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/219-another-grand-wagoneer-to-late-cj-parts-mate-up/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster. Note: I accessed these four posts quickly by using the forums Search box. First, set the search box drop down choices to "Forums". Insert these words: "brake booster". A similar search under the words "master cylinder" would turn up material. The forums have grown considerably, and it's now helpful and practical to use the Search box. With the right keywords, it works! As for brake line size, again look to the size used by a GM 1/2-ton for a baseline. (Determine whether the calipers are U.S. or metric size fittings, as this could dictate the replacement lines needed.) The 1981 CJ-7 piping is ample and may work. Your concern here is sensible, though most modern disc front, drum rear brake systems have sufficient brake tubing size. Compare to be sure, and if you can keep the OE tubing, it does have the advantage of armor guard or wire protective wrapping at vulnerable points. That's a plus for a 4x4 used off-road. If you replace piping, use brake grade tubing, wire wrapped at least for key areas. For proportioning, the master cylinder/booster source may have suggestions. There's likely a proportioning or combination valve that is optimal for the four-wheel disc brakes. You could consider an OE setup like the later TJ Wrangler with four-wheel disc brakes to have the combination valve feature. This provides proportioning plus a safety switch-over and lamp cue for a brake system failure at one end, similar to what your OE CJ-7 has now. I have used manual proportioning valves, and they can work. Wilwood and others offer quality products. The simpler manual proportioning valves lack one key feature: They will not apply "timed" brake application at one end first. This is especially important on disc front/drum rear brakes, where the rear brakes need to receive fluid pressure just slightly ahead of the front discs. This accounts for rear brake shoe return spring tension, shoe-to-drum clearance and lag time when compared to front disc pads that ride directly on the rotors. Disc brakes apply immediately when fluid pressure reaches the caliper. By applying rear brakes slightly ahead of the front brakes, the timed rear braking helps prevent front end dive during heavy brake application. This is a key function of OE proportioning on disc front/drum rear brakes. Timing is dictated by chassis engineering, brake capacity and type, vehicle weight, weight distribution and wheelbase length, dive tendency and risk of wheel lock-up. Rear brake lock-up is always a concern, and the system must be balanced to prevent the rear wheels from locking up under non-skid braking. When only the rear wheels lock up, the most common cause is front end dive and weight pitching forward. When this happens, the rear of the vehicle lifts up and lightens the load on the rear tires. Rear tire/wheel lockup occurs. Note: A shorter 94-inch wheelbase vehicle like your Jeep CJ-7 poses less risk of front end dive. Likely you have stiff springs planned and oversized tires, and this reduces front end dive even more. Always test brakes in a safe driving environment. Be aware that rear wheel lockup can spin a vehicle around...Your parts choices and success story here will be of great interest to others, David! The simpler manual proportioning valve meters down or restricts fluid (like closing a faucet slightly) at one end of the vehicle, typically the rear. This helps prevent wheel lockup by lowering overall fluid volume and pressure available at that end of the braking system. Check out the Wilwood catalog, there may be more sophisticated manual proportioning setups available. Summit Racing offers a variety of braking solutions for custom systems like you're building. My safety benchmark would be an OEM four-wheel disc brake proportioning/combination valve setup similar to either a late Jeep TJ Wrangler or a Chevy 1/2-ton truck, depending upon the master cylinder used. Again, try the aftermarket master cylinder/booster supplier that 60Bubba used. Explain your axle choices and wheel brake sizing. They may have a quick, tested solution here. Please share your findings... If you decide to test the stock CJ-7 combination valve, be aware of the quirky shuttle pin at the valve when bleeding the brake system. I talk about this in the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86. If you do not hold the pin in the proper position while bleeding the brakes, one end of the system will be shut off and not bleed properly. Please ask questions and share your findings as the project unfolds. Others will benefit from your "parts list" for this brake upgrade. The CJ-7 will be an awesome machine, your photos already say a lot! Moses

Yes, dderrik10! You'll likely be fine with a wiring schematic and the XJ Cherokee wiring harness. A hint: Mopar Performance got the Mopar EFI conversion kit wiring harness down to a four-wire interface with the factory wiring on a 1981-90 CJ or YJ. This is the reason I suggested a peek at the Mopar schematic if available anywhere...The Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (soon in your hands!) with the Mopar EFI kit installation on a 4.2L inline six will furnish details. Since the earlier two-rail Mopar EFI conversion kit is patterned off a '94-'95 Wrangler/Cherokee 60-way system, most components will look like your 1991 XJ Cherokee's induction and EFI/MPI 4.0L system. If you do the AX15 swap and need to rebuild the AX15, they're worth it. I have the detailed steps (over 200 of them!) in the HD video rental available at Vimeo On Demand. Here's the link if you need it: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. I'm available for questions or factory wiring schematics! You cannot go wrong with a properly built 4.6L stroker six...Minimal cost difference over a stock 4.0L rebuild with so much to gain. Note the tuning comments for injectors, that's a key element and relatively minor change. Moses

I've just switched to the Enerpulse Pulstar spark plug after testing these plugs and researching their capability. Here is the coverage and also an opportunity to see my Honda XR motorcycles in action: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. The video shares my riding venues and why I selected this spark plug. The Pulstar spark plug helps offset short-term altitude changes without the need to alter jetting... For your testing, since you're at sea level and we want a consistent baseline, I suggest the NGK BKR7E-11. (The Denso K22PR-U11 is an alternative if the NGK is not readily available.) The NGK BKR7E-11 is the factory standard listing for the Honda XR650R. The BKR8E-11 is colder and optional. Being colder, I would not use the "8E" while you're experimenting with fuel mixtures. I would also avoid using a "performance" spark plug like the Pulstar until you are certain the jetting is correct. I'm looking forward to seeing the results, Arnaldo! Moses

Great, Don...You'll be getting the correct edition, the EFI conversion in the book is a two-rail Mopar EFI Conversion Kit with parts similar to your 1991 XJ Cherokee donor 4.0L engine...Trust this will be helpful! Moses

Hi, Don...I'll jump in here, other members and owners can share their experiences, too! You're right about the adapter from the AX15 to D300 transfer case, the issue is the transfer case clocking position and making sure the spline count and stick-out length of the transmission output shaft match up with the Dana 300 input. Contact Advance Adapters at 1-800-350-2223 for technical details and the parts list. You can get an overview of your adapter needs at the website: www.advanceadapters.com. Engine mounting brackets should swap over from your current 4.2L/258 inline six. Check the back of engine/transmission length issues and the 4.0L/AX15 measurements from the bellhousing face at the engine block to the transfer case. Take into consideration any adapter thickness, too. This will dictate the final position of the transfer case and whether drivelines need cutting or added tube length. If so, you'll also be repositioning the transmission/transfer case mount position on the skid plate, a relatively easy task. The torque brace pin will need relocating, too. If there is significant movement, check the transfer case shift lever position with the floorboard opening, this may require adjustment...Let us know what you discover here. The wiring can be handled one of two ways. If separate Mopar EFI kit parts are available, specifically the wiring harness for the first MPI/EFI kit patterned after the 1994-95 YJ Wrangler factory EFI, that would be a ready made harness and include the wiring to the fuel pump near the gas tank. (Yes, you will need a PCM-triggered electric fuel pump, it can be externally mounted like the Mopar EFI kit pump.) If this harness is not available, you're left with using the harness from the XJ Cherokee and following a wiring schematic to tie all of this together. This does require some automotive electrical savvy, it can be done, many do it. You'll be using everything from the PCM to the over-engine harness, EFI hookups, the coolant sensor wiring, and so forth. Each signal that the 60-way (terminal count) PCM requires needs consideration. If there is a wiring schematic of the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit available (possibly HESCO can supply), that would be very helpful, even if you use the XJ factory wiring. Note: Your 1991 4.0L MPI/EFI is a two-rail type and requires a return fuel line from the EFI fuel rail to the fuel tank. This is not difficult to devise, as the 4.2L likely uses a return pipe from the fuel filter to the tank with its mechanical fuel pump system. You can mate to that piping if it's large enough in diameter or fabricate a return pipe and hoses that will join the fuel tank at the same location as your original fuel return line. Use higher pressure EFI-rated fuel hose and Euro or EFI type clamps. If you want to see how all of this comes together, I cover it in detail within the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86, available from 4WD parts sources, Advance Adapters or directly from Bentley Publishers. Here is overview material on your subject and this install: 1) Carburetion Versus EFI Conversion for the 4.2L Jeep Inline Six...Should you convert your 4.2L Jeep inline six to EFI? In this feature, Moses Ludel contrasts the BBD carburetor and the Mopar Performance EFI conversion kit. www.4wdmechanix.com/Carburetion-Versus-EFI-Conversion-for-the-4.2L-Jeep-Inline-Six.html 2) How-to: Tuning the Fuel Injected Jeep Inline Six Stroker Motor...The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here. www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html 3) Jeep Fuel Pressure Requirements...Fuel pump and system pressure is different for carburetion, TBI and MPI. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pressure requirements for various Jeep engines and chassis designs. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html (This article has detailed and helpful illustrations, Don. View closely.) 3) Jeep CJ Inline Six Stroker Rebuild...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrades. 1972-86 CJ models,1972-up Jeepster Commando models, full-size J-trucks and Cherokee 4WDs with the 232 or 258 inline six can each benefit from a 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker engine upgrade. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-CJ-Inline-Six-Stroker-Rebuild.html 4) YJ & TJ Jeep Stroker Six Upgrade...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrade for the 1991-up YJ and TJ Wrangler. When the original 4.0L inline six is needs rebuilding, consider the 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker rebuild option. Complete history and evaluation available here! www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html 5) Rebuilding the Two-Barrel BBD Feedback Carburetor...The 1981-86 Jeep CJ models equipped with a 258 inline six have the Carter BBD two-barrel carburetor. Many owners and shops find this carburetor challenging. In this detailed 'how-to', Moses Ludel troubleshoots and restores the BBD to 'as new' standards. www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html I would say that your biggest challenge is not the mechanical side but rather the time-consuming wiring side. I like wiring work, not everyone does. Splices for EFI should be wire lapped and rosin flux soldered, covered with heavy duty or multiple layer heat shrink tubing. Voltage readings are critical for EFI, simple butt-crimp connectors cannot assure a proper voltage reading, and the open ends of cheap splice connectors beg issues like corrosion and corrosion wicking up the wires. This is a start...Pleased to add more. Others can join here! Moses

Arnaldo...Very pleased to hear about your detailed work. The auto-decompressor has a one-way clutch mechanism. You need to rotate the crankshaft very slowly in its normal direction of rotation and do not pass the TDC mark on the compression stroke. If you do pass this mark, continue rotating, nearly 2 full crankshaft turns, until the TDC mark just lines up on the compression stroke. Do not try to rotate the crankshaft backward to get TDC. With the spark plug removed and the rear wheel raised slightly off the ground, you can put the transmission in a higher gear (4th or 5th) and control the rotation of the crankshaft by slowly rotating the rear wheel. The valve adjuster screws should have similar height, not the same but not extremely different heights. If you need to back off the adjuster a lot on the exhaust valve with the auto-decompressor (at the right side of the engine) to get any valve clearance, the auto-decompressor is likely engaged. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC on the compression stroke once more and see if that clears up the auto-decompressor issue. Note: The left side exhaust valve opens from the manual decompressor lever at the handlebar. Make sure there is normal free play at the cable to allow this valve to close without any interference from the manual decompressor. This is the cable at the left or spark plug side of the XR650R cylinder head. Your change to the 180 main jet will help. When you can ride the cycle with dependability, the spark plug coloration and smoothness of the carburetor transitions will let you know whether the jetting and needle setting are correct. Checking the spark plug after running the engine at various (sustained) throttle settings is helpful. I'd be pleased to comment on the spark plug coloration. Make notes about the engine's speed/throttle opening for each photo. Moses

Arnaldo, all of these details are very helpful. I am certain that you will find the 190 main jet excessive, but that will be at mid- to full throttle. The idle and tip-in throttle issues are likely related to the pilot jet size and the needle height. You're headed richer with each of the changes. 5th clip notch from the top of the needle is a high setting. I believe this is way too much fuel flow. If the engine is tolerating this kind of richness, there may be an air leak at the manifold or carburetor/intake grommet, which would lean out the mixture. The 1.75 idle screw setting is very close to normal and a good sign. Be very careful with this idle screw, its inner stem is small and easily bent if the screw is removed completely and installed with this fine tip even slightly out of center. (This is fairly easy to do.) A bent inner stem on this screw would make it impossible to set a stable idle. From idle to as much as 1/4 throttle speed would be unstable. Did you run the engine after setting the valves, before the exhaust and jet work? Was it running well after that valve adjustment? Or did you adjust the valves at the same time you installed the Big Gun exhaust? If the valves were adjusted at the time you installed the exhaust, I would carefully check the valve setting again. Be sure that the auto-decompressor is completely off, and the piston must be at TDC (top-dead-center) on the compression stroke. Maybe the valves are set too loose or tight. If there was a considerable adjustment at the exhaust valve side, the auto-decompressor may have been interfering with your clearance check. A possibility. If the plug reading is rich once you get the idle stable and such, I would restore the jetting to your original settings of 175 and 68S as a baseline for sea level. The engine should run okay with these jets, and if it is running very poorly with the 175 and 68S, with the needle in the original 3rd position, I would check for other possibilities and not change the jets yet. When you do have the engine running well with the 175 and 68S, if the plug shows a lean mix, you can try the 180 and 72 that Big Gun recommended. The downside of running too rich is that the excess fuel will wash lubricant from the cylinder wall and cause premature piston ring and cylinder wall wear. Too lean, of course, is not good, either. Lean mixtures can overheat the engine, cause detonation, and damage the rings, piston and valves of the engine. The spark plug color tests may require some thoroughly clean backup spark plugs for accurate readings. Spark plug coloration is a valid and useful way to confirm the air/fuel mixtures at various throttle settings. Again, idle to 1/4 throttle is mostly the idle screw and pilot jet, with some needle jet involvement. Rolling past 1/4 throttle involves the needle height setting and gradually becomes a main jet size concern as the throttle gets wider and the slide with needle rises. From a 175 to a 190 main jet on the XR650R Keihin OE carburetor would not make a lot of difference until the throttle is rolled open. Unless there is something really exceptional going on with the Big Gun slip-on exhaust, the needle height should be 3rd or 4th clip groove at the most. Note: My engine transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle with the settings I've outlined. The transitions indicate proper jetting and needle setting, tested by gradually increasing throttle and noting the engine smoothness at each throttle setting...For my engine, there is not the slightest hesitation, surge, balking or stalling at any throttle setting. If I set the idle speed at 1400+ rpm when the engine is barely warmed, idle speed will creep up slightly after a hard run. I prefer this to turning the idle speed screw up and down constantly like many describe. Since your engine seemed to respond better with the very rich 190 jet, make sure you have adequate fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor. The filter in the tank (above the petcock) may be clogged or damaged. Moses

Hertfordnc...First off is the question of chassis stamina. The diesel needs to be fitted into a Ram 2500 or 3500. I'd prefer the 3500 if available. As for frame differences, here is the frame layout for both gas and diesel engine applications from the era you describe. (I used 2005 for these illustrations.) There are motor mount differences, obviously, but this will clarify the basic frame interchangeability: 2005 Dodge Ram Frame Specs.pdf Start your research here. I have parts details, too, including motor mounts and such, if you need that kind of information. The PDF layouts can be zoomed-in for a bigger image view. Trust this is helpful... Moses

Arnaldo...Thanks for being detailed...The OE carburetor has only one idle mixture screw. I am concerned about the need for a 180 main and 72 pilot due to just the addition of the Big Gun. (175 would be rich at my altitude and typical running environment, 4200-6000 feet.) I run a 172 main and 68 (non-S) pilot. Even these jets flow fuel on the richer side, although I'm not running a tuned exhaust like the Big Gun. I run an uncorked exhaust tip, basically Honda Power Up Kit. Everyone leaps to tuning. I'm very particular about making sure the basic engine condition and settings are correct. I would want to know the cylinder seal (leakdown test with the valves all closed) and also the valve clearances. A third and ever-present concern with the XR650R is the auto-decompressor mechanism on the camshaft. As you know, I eliminated the auto-decompressor guesswork with the installation of a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft. Begin by making sure your compression is adequate and normal during cranking. I would return to the 175 and 68S jetting to restore the good starting condition once more. If doing so allows normal starting and idle, do a traditional wide-open-throttle run and shutdown. Then, without burning your fingers, remove the spark plug. Read it. Share photos, I'd be glad to comment on the burn/mixture shown on the spark plug. As a footnote, if the float level became distorted while changing the jets, the engine could be either starving or flooding. What does the spark plug look like now? Pleased to assist, Arnaldo. Let's get that XR650R running properly and reliably! The Big Gun should make a positive difference. I would like to know how much... Moses

Biggman100...A worn water pump impeller and poor coolant circulation are always a possibility. That's worth checking out, though a bad impeller should also cause summer overheating. At least confirm adequate circulation. Often overlooked is the thermostat alignment mark. In addition to installing the thermostat with the correct side up, many thermostats have an indexing mark for setting the clock position of the 'stat. Is this an O-ring seal thermostat, a gasket or RTV sealant alone? A concern is whether the thermostat stays seated and sealed in its ledge and does not "float" around with the thermostat housing installed. If the thermostat is loose and allows coolant to circulate around its edges, at low engine rpm the coolant could be bypassing the thermostat instead of being held back by the closed thermostat when the engine is cold. As for the timing chain, the only relationship between a loose/worn chain and an engine running cold would be lack of manifold vacuum and essentially loss of compression if severe enough. This would also cause the engine to be sluggish and not produce full horsepower, and here we're back to BTUs: less horsepower output, less engine heat output. The timing chain would have to be pretty loose to impact horsepower and cooling. My quick check for a loose timing chain (engine still assembled with timing cover in place) can be found at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/174-quick-test-for-engine-timing-chain-wear/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bchain. Moses

Exciting project, Tim! Tow it safely to Fernley...We're on the map for parts and such, Reno/Sparks has a 4-Wheel Parts outlet, Summit Racing's western distribution warehouse is at Sparks with a retail component...Fernley just opened a Big R ranch supply that has a really good supply of everything you'll need to get through a Sunday project with your rolling stock, including hardware, welding, tool needs, electrical, air supply and Carhartt work clothes...See ya round town soon! Moses

Biggman100...A couple of thoughts. First, I'm suspect of the fan clutch, too. If it's staying on at low speeds with the engine not laboring, the efficiency of the fan may be great enough to overcome the efforts of the coolant thermostat. (The water pump is obviously working in this case! Replace it only if you suspect wear, a seal leak or a bearing issue.) Test the fan clutch, it should free-wheel with the engine completely cold. There may be some fan drag when starting up after the engine sets cold, though this should quickly free up. When we start a very cold engine, the fan clutch will whir the fan for a moment then gradually release. This is the cold viscous fluid in clutches with fluid drives. Cold ambient temperatures will exaggerate this. If the fan rotates under power all the time, the engine may not be able to warm up and reach thermostat temperature. If the temperature does get a bit better on the road, this is because acceleration and speed requires horsepower, and horsepower equals approximately 45 BTUs per horsepower. Slight load, low speeds and less BTUs equals a cold cooling system that the thermostat is struggling to warm up. As for the blowing out of coolant, sounds like a couple of possibilities. One would be an air block in the cooling system from changing the anti-freeze, and the gap could create a pressure pocket within hot coolant. This erupted as a boil over of coolant under pressure, and the coolant spewed out through the overflow. With the new cap, repaired bottle and hose, and burping the system of anti-freeze/coolant air gaps, you should have that problem eliminated. Here's my approach...When changing coolant/anti-freeze, fill the radiator to the top, cap the radiator, and add coolant/anti-freeze mixture to the right level in the bottle. Initially, make this above the Cold line, as some coolant will certainly syphon into the radiator and engine cooling system. Turn on the heater control lever to "HOT" and flow coolant through the heater core. (Some heaters use a shut-off valve, this assures full flow of coolant.) Run the engine to thermostat temperature, circulate the coolant, then shut the engine off. Allow a complete cool down with the system sealed and coolant in the recovery bottle. This will syphon coolant from the bottle until the radiator is completely full to the cap, after which you can watch coolant level at the bottle. With a sealed cooling system and recovery bottle, coolant level at the bottle is critical, as the radiator must remain full to the cap at all times. Sometimes, the system will take several heat-cool cycles to reach a stable coolant/anti-freeze level. Another possibility is that too much anti-freeze is in the solution or became isolated without mixing. If you're not using premix 50/50, your own mixture of water and anti-freeze should not be too concentrated or poured into the cooling system as pure anti-freeze. (Mix coolant/anti-freeze and water before pouring it into the radiator or bottle, just to be safe.) I'm not sure what your winter ambient temps do at Upstate New York, you may need -45 degree F protection. If the concentration is too great (read as protection even lower than -60 degrees F or so on a simple hydrometer test), the anti-freeze solution will not expand within itself and can either "boil over" or actually cause a casting crack just like a system full of water only. Here is a PEAK Anti-Freeze protection chart. This is typical for modern anti-freeze types with 50/50 being -34 degrees F protection. I never run protection below -62 degrees F or 60% concentration. If I were at Fairbanks, Alaska or northern Canada, maybe lower temperature protection would be a consideration. Note the need for a quality, good sealing pressure cap. Consider the cap part of the boil over protection: What is the proper mixture of antifreeze to water for adequate freeze protection in my area? While temperatures and climates vary, most vehicles can use our conventional antifreeze protection chart: Let us know what you find...The 195-degree F thermostat is a very good idea, if you run a 180, there's risk that the engine may not come off its enrichment warm-up cycle. If so, you'll run rich and use more fuel, there's even risk of carbon buildup. The PCM is depending on a warmer engine temperature signal to advance past the cold-start and warm-up phase. As an example, on the Mopar EFI conversion for the inline Jeep 4.2L sixes, Mopar insists on a 195-degree F thermostat for just these reasons. Your Dodge Dakota EFI/MPI system has similar programming. Moses

We each have an appreciation for tools, and here's a humorous note on what tools can do. At the "swapmeetdave.com" site, Dave shares a humorous tool list by Peter Egan from his Road & Track column. You will appreciate Peter's insightful wit, humor and obvious awareness tools: http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Workshop/Definitions.htm. Enjoy! Thanks to Swap Meet Dave and Peter Egan... Moses

Tim...Sounds like the kit includes parts for a RWD two-wheel drive Aisin AX15 version as well. This would include the tailhousing or rear driveline slip yoke bushing and slip yoke seal. The other seal could also be 2WD version related. If you accounted for each of the parts in the AX15 article (now a narrated motion video rental at Vimeo On Demand), you should be home free! Think of it, there were 2WD XJ Cherokee 4.0L models that use the 2WD/RWD version, also similar applications in GM Isuzu pickups and Toyota trucks. Guess what...We'll be neighbors soon! The magazine base is Fernley, 30 miles from Fallon. If you're setting up at Fernley, watch for the '99 XJ Cherokee with the 6-inch long arm lift and Warn insignias at the rear quarter panels or the magazine's red Ram 3500 4x4 with signage. Or maybe you'll spot me scorching across remote desert or minding the speed limits (highly recommended) on the Fallon Highway (50-E) with the Honda XR650R. (Even the Honda XR350R can kick up respectable dust in the desert!)...We'll grab a cup of coffee and discuss AX15 transmissions till we're blue in the face! Have a safe, productive move. Welcome to the neighborhood, you'll like the greater Reno/Lake Tahoe Area and soon discover the Black Rock Desert and High Rock Canyon! Moses

Thanks for the compliment on the forums, Paul. I've aimed at creating an atmosphere where members and guests can get useful, comprehensive technical information and also share their enthusiasm for four-wheel drive vehicles, SUVs, powersports machines and OHVs. Optimally, the forums' value to members and guests is cost-effective vehicle maintenance and repair solutions, selecting sensible accessories and upgrades, and an opportunity to enthusiastically share our motorized lifestyles, recreational interests and pursuits. When UK members are past this Jeep KJ safety recall dilemma, I'm trusting you will each continue to contribute at the forums. It would be exciting to hear more about your specialty uses for the Jeep KJ and how it suits your lifestyle interests—like pulling horse trailers and recreational caravanning. As a community, we can discuss and share ways to enhance our four-wheel drive and SUV experiences! As for Chrysler balking on the tow bar solution due to the broad numbers of vehicles involved in this safety issue, that should not be an obstacle. The corporation has already committed to the U.S. tow bar installation, and for the UK, there is very little cost difference between the tow bar and the cross brace that is currently presented. At the manufacturing level, if Chrysler is obligated to install one device or the other, the option or alternative of a tow hitch is of small consequence, especially considering the consumer satisfaction factor. Granted, this is a wide scale and costly solution overall, and we can be certain that any delay by Chrysler includes weighing ways to contain cost. Moses