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Showing results for tags '4.0L Jeep'.
Found 19 results
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Moses, I have an '87 Wrangler YJ that I'm looking to refurbish. I would like to replace the Carter BBD carbureted system. I have two questions: I have seen your articles on the Mopar MPI Conversion Kit and the MSD Atomic EFI kit. I'm leaning towards the Mopar kit but would like to see if you can provide a compare/contrast. My YJ will be much more of a Daily Driver with modest off road use. I would like to do a Cat Forward replacement at the same time that I upgrade to a new fuel system (I recently did a Muffler Back replacement). Do you suggest upgrading to a header application for performance improvement? If so, is there a header that requires no/minimum customization (i.e. can share bolt pattern with intake manifold and will follow the factory exhaust path configuration)? If you are suggesting a header upgrade, how choosy should I be with the cat selection? Many thanks. -
Hello, Moses! Can you guide me on how to change ATF in my 1994 Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L 42RE transmission? How will I change fluid if I want to also change fluid in the torque converter? Can I do this thru the line going into the radiator? How many quarts do i need to change? Thank you... Mario Bedayo -
Hi! Moses, how are you? can i ask your advice regarding the tranny swap for my 242 1994 grand cherokee limited awd. i want the manual 5 speed , can do that ? can you please guide me what to do and the parts that in going to buy either a serviceable one , i know i can get it in ebay. my 42RE is going to end and theres no good repair shop here for the tranny 42 RE and it will cost me a big amount . Thank you. Mario Bedayo Philippines
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Hello all, Three years ago my engine got hydrolocked. After that I replaced piston on cylinder no. 6, because connecting rod was bent a bit. Even after that, there is some knock while engine is cold, that lasts about 2 minutes when engine is cold. After warm up knock is gone. In three years things were not getting worse, even knock is still there. I can't detect knock origin for sure, it sounds like its on the side of the engine where the distributor is, but I can't be sure if it is in the upper or lower part of the engine. After 1300-1400 rpm even when its cold its very hard to detect (but I'm not sure if it is not masked by the engine or fan noise). Last time I checked compression it was in upper factory range. Rod bearings and crankshaft were replaced year before hydrolock. I always thought that this is valve related because lower part of the engine appeared fine, but I've recently heard about piston slap in 4.0 engines. I guess that piston skirt is not broken since noise disappears after warm up. My questions are: 1. How can I detect what is causing this noise without disassembling engine? I've read that if I remove spark plug wire from cylinder and listen for knock, if it gets quieter then its piston slap, if not then rod bearings or valves 2. If it is piston slap, will it do any damage to cylinder walls? Do I need to replace anything else than entire piston? -
Hello Mose, Agin ill be asking you regarding the pilot bushing that will i use in my convertion, when the mechanic remover the 42 Re he didi not change the pilot bushing or the bearing and he just install the flywhell, the clutch disc, the pressure plate,of the ax 15 from a donor 1993 xy 4.0, we just change a new hydraulic release bearing, and fit it. we cut the drive shaft 2' from the rear and add 2' to front .as per mechanic advice . so the trans mission fits with no obstacle. we bleed the line , and then what happens it will not shift from neutral fo first.. the mechanic told me that our clutch release bearing moves a liilttle and the pedal is floored already. i dont whats happening here... do i have to change the pilot bushing? as we did not change it. its still the old bushing in the crakshsft. the size of the output shsft is ..750 please help me with this. . i want my zj can run so that i will enjoy drivng it with ax 15. trans. Thanks. Mario Bedayo Philippines.
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Recently, I've found time to catch up on some XJ Cherokee care. Our '99 had issues with the power window/door lock system, the A/C dash panel air flow and the "No Bus" gauge drop-off problem. Each of these problems is common to the XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers, making forums all over the internet. On our Cherokee, I worked through the troubleshooting and solutions for each. If your Jeep XJ Cherokee or TJ Wrangler is experiencing erratic dash panel air flow with the heater or A/C controls set to different positions, you'll want to check out this new article at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html. Another symptom to consider is the cruise control and the A/C and heater panel settings not working when you're climbing a grade with the Jeep. I made the Chrysler TSB #24-12-99 available as a PDF download. This is one cure, but it did not apply in our case... If your power windows, door locks and remote door lock control are not operating properly, you'll want to see my recent article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-Cherokee-Power-Window-and-Door-Lock-Switch-Replacement.html. This includes troubleshooting symptoms and the actual replacement of a door switch module. If your dash instruments suddenly drop-off to zero with the engine running or on the road, or if the "No Bus" signal appears at the instrument panel with erratic gauge activity, you may have the electrical connector issue that I address in the article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html. This how-to goes into detail about the problem, the parts involved and the fix, including soldering a new plug and wires into the dash panel circuit. I even included a PDF of the Chrysler/Jeep TSB #08-15-99 on this problem for both the Jeep XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler. Having troubles in these areas? Check out the three new articles at the magazine. Another issue is the rear door latch and having to press the outside door release button with great force to open the door. Possible remedy: There is a slot on the rear facing edge of the door that has an adjustable slide for the door button. Work the button and watch this lever move. You can loosen the Torx screw and move the lever/button adjuster to allow for a full throw of the outside handle button when you press the button. This and some white lithium spray lube at pivot points of the latch mechanisms can have your "defective" rear door latches functioning as new! Moses -
I'm looking at Jeep XJ Cherokees for a possible build-up and light four-wheeling. Jp Magazine (May 2013 issue) rates used Cherokees from best to worst. Here is their ranking: '98 - '991/2 '00 and '01 with a manual '91-'94 '87-'90 '95-'96 Do others agree with this? -
Hi, Moses, I need your help where to connect the HEI distributor wiring. Is it ok to tap via the ignition where the fuse is? and how do we connect these wires? Thank you. Regards, Mario Philippines
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Moses, How are you? im going to ask you some question, i want to use the comp cam 252 is it possible to use the stock lifters push rod and springs? also what is the push rod height ? 9.639 is ok?, im just asking again your advice, i will follow your advice regarding to collapse the lifter first , pls. also guide how to tighten the rocker arm and the push rod.or is there any article or video that i can follow how to do it. your recommendation .... thanks. Regards to you Mario from the philippines.
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Is there a manual transmission that can handle an 800 horsepower racing Jeep 4.0L stroker engine? I need a 2- or 3-speed only transmission. -
The magazine had the opportunity to test Pulstar® spark plugs in the 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L. These unique spark plugs received our extensive testing in the XJ Cherokee and the two Honda dirt motorcycles. The plugs work optimally with both gasoline and natural gas engines. The magazine article is available at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. We will continue testing and discussing these spark plugs at the magazine and these forums! Here are our findings with the XJ Cherokee: 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 4.0L—This inline six-cylinder engine is nearly stock. The addition of a Borla header, Random Technologies' performance catalytic converter and the Hypertech 'Max Energy' program tuning are the only modifications. The vehicle's approximate curb weight of 3,800 pounds with a Warn front winch and an aftermarket ARB front bumper and Warn rear heavy duty bumper. The axles have 4.10:1 ring and pinions to compensate for the 33" diameter tires and a 6-inch long-arm suspension lift. Prior to testing with the Pulstar® spark plugs, this vehicle operated with Bosch spark plugs that burned well with a fully functional ignition and EFI/MPI system. There were no issues with ignition misfire or EFI fuel supply problems, and this engine has normal, uniform compression and cylinder seal. The change to Pulstar® plugs gapped to factory 0.035" was the only change made for this test. We waited for the first tank of fuel to burn through before making comparisons. At that point there were several distinct improvements: 1) Better tip-in throttle response at any road speed and under heavy acceleration. 2) Less throttle needed to sustain normal "cruise" road speeds. 3) Less downshifting on grades with cruise control applied. Acceleration improved with both forced and cruise control downshifts. 4) Distinct improvement in fuel efficiency; approximately one mile per gallon improvement (5.5%) under "city" and "highway" or interstate test conditions. 5) Starts immediate; this engine has always started well. Details and actual spark plug installation coverage can be seen in the HD video: Moses
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My 1987 Cherokee 4.0 liter is misfiring when started but when I have clutch depressed it runs fine. Does any one have any ideas? I think a bad TPS but don't want to throw money at something that won't fix it! -
Has anyone used the Novak conversion kit to install a 5.3 LS into an XJ Cherokee? They have the whole package including updating the wiring harness and GM computer along with the XJ computer. -
In 1984, AMC/Jeep® took its unitized body and 4x4 technology into the XJ Cherokee platform. This breakthrough compact SUV became the best selling model of its era and made the AMC sale to Chrysler profitable. These models and the subsequent Jeep ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees feature beam axles front and rear, two-speed transfer cases and rugged engine packages, making them candidates for off-road upgrades and 4x4 trail use...Welcome to the XJ Cherokee and ZJ/WJ Grand Cherokee community at 4WD Mechanix Magazine!—Moses Ludel At left is a ZJ Grand Cherokee equipped to tackle the Moab Area BFE course! Reno Off-Road Motorsports Expo (center) is one more place to see the owner enthusiasm for the XJ Cherokee! At right, the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee multi-tasks, pulling the Caravan trailer and our XR350R Honda dirt motorcycle!
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee 1996 stroker six with these specification: - High compression pistons - CompCams camshaft #68-239-4 with lifters, valve springs, retainers, etc. - Three-into-one header Currently, I have a Hypertech program with a Unichip rev limiter module on the way. I want the most powerful computer and am considering these options: Superchips - SCT Computer - Jet Performance Stage 2 module Which is the strongest module?
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This topic is new member Sparky1's question...I moved the discussion here, as this is a Jeep XJ Cherokee topic that will be of interest to many...Thanks for participating at the forums, Sparky1, we look forward to your involvement! In response to Sparky1's original question (in the next post), I haven't done this swap, but here's what I do know...The later model Jeep vehicles feature a security/anti-theft interlock system that ties the steering column/key functions to the powertrain management system. This matches the vehicle's VIN to the key lock mechanism, actually useful. When I toyed with the idea of a Liberty diesel engine swap into our 1999 XJ Cherokee (like your XJ), informed sources at Chrysler shared that this could only be done with a PCM match to the steering column. The standard route was to install the recycled engine, its PCM and the steering column from the same donor vehicle. So, I would suspect that the JK Wrangler steering column has ties to its PCM, and the PCM for a JK would drive a 3.8L or 3.6L V-6, not your inline 4.0L Jeep six. That's what I do know, others may have more insight here... As a footnote, I also know that the late JK Wrangler steering wheel is very cool! Moses
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Hello...My 1999 WJ 4.0 l6 can't start. It backfires through the throttle body when turning the engine over. Initially it showed these fault codes: P0340, P1765, P1391, P0531, P0761 and C214C, some codes disappeared except for P1391 and later P0301. The day it died, I filled the Grand Cherokee with gas to the brim, as I was making a long trip. That's when all hell broke lose. The engine had no power and was running as if it was cutting off fuel (pulsating), and it also increased fuel consumption significantly. By sheer luck i arrived at my destination. I also recall that the MIL light flashed for some time while en-route.The next day it started fine, though it idled roughly, especially in reverse gear. It finally died as we were running the engine to read live data with a scanner. We cleaned the injectors (not sure if it was properly done), and it became worse. I bought a set of upgraded (4 hole) Bosch fuel injectors, changed CPK and camshaft sensor, no difference. Can you please help me troubleshoot the problem? Presently the codes which are persistent when cranking are P0761 and C214C. I tried the quick start spray trick with no success. I have read threads about catalytic converter and camshaft target wheel. Can one of them or both cause it to backfire through the throttle body? Please help. I'm at my wit's end with this car. Bishie -
The magazine's 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 is typical. Having minimal trail strain, the Jeep 4.0L Sport runs reliably and quite happily at 140K plus miles...Some would say the Jeep is just broken-in now... In fact, 4.0L Jeep Wrangler, XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche and Grand Cherokee models do benefit from preventive care, just like any other vehicle. Regular service can make the difference between a 150K-160K lifespan and the legendary 300K mile XJ Cherokees. So, what's in need of attention on our XJ Cherokee? What will I be doing soon? Well, the right front door's window and door lock switch is defunct. I found the switch online: Mopar #56009451AC for 1999 XJ Cherokee, 4WD left hand drive, 4-door, the right front/passenger door. Cost is just under $75, including S&H. Expect an update, I'll likely do a how-to video for the magazine, covering the switch installation along with a tour of the door's inner mechanisms and the power window regulator! Then, there's the dashboard gauge quirk, sudden "zero" of the gauges, especially if the Cherokee sets for more than a bit in the sun...There's a factory TSB on this one, and I have the Mopar service kit (very inexpensive) waiting on my work bench for installation. Since the dash and gauge panel require removal, I'm saving that 'how-to' for when the weather is balmy and time is on my side. The twin Spal fans have worked flawlessly since installation with the Griffin upgrade radiator. I set the fans to run after ignition shutoff, dropping coolant temp to 185-degrees F before restart. After replacing the battery, I'm more conscious about the two-minute or so drain following engine shutoff in hot weather. I'll take the time to rewire the fan trigger relays for Key-On only operation. Not surprising for a 4.0L AMC inline six, the Cherokee's engine could benefit from a new rear main seal, but I would rather do that major chore during a 4.6L stroker motor buildup—if/when the time comes...Simply changing to 10W-40 in the summer has staved off the mild drip or two after parking. There's no measurable oil consumption, so this is more a nuisance and strain on the driveway cement over time. I use a drip pan when parked in the carport. Shocks, 6-inch long arm suspension and steering damper are doing well for the moment. BFG tires are new and balanced, I do rotate regularly, so the wheels are good. I will do a rear brake shoe service 'how-to' for the benefit of Jeep owners, the rear brakes are original and could use replacement lining and wheel cylinder attention. I always vacuum purge the hydraulic system of old brake fluid during this service and may consider a D.O.T. 4 replacement brake fluid after confirming its compatibility. You'll like the 'how-to', probably in HD video, when I do this job... Caution: You cannot use D.O.T. 5 silicone-based fluid in a system that has any remnant of D.O.T. 3 or 4 fluid. D.O.T. 5.1 has a lower silicone content and is sometimes tolerated by non-silicone brake systems. My rule of thumb: Don't get "creative" here. The safe bet for an XJ Cherokee is D.O.T. 3 when specified, D.O.T. 4 if compatible. Read the owner's manual or the fluid reservoir cap. Use the specified brake fluid...If you're concerned about the 'hygroscopic' (water bonding) nature of D.O.T. 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids, flush or vacuum the fluid through the system with fresh brake fluid—periodically. Still have questions? Post them, and I'll reply! The air conditioning works but could use a recharge. That's another how-to for the magazine. I'd like to share how doing this chore properly can save a bundle in repairs and also make your A/C like new. Stay tuned, it's summer, and I'm motivated! Overall, the Jeep XJ Cherokee has been the least expensive to keep utility 4x4 we've ever owned. No point in taking advantage of such a vehicle, it does deserve better! Moses
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http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/wmmccall/library/?sort=3&page=1 Above is a link to some (larger) pictures of some holes in my 242 block. Casting#: 53010341, Date: 3/14/1997. Salvage yard said it "tested good". All my small block chevy friends say don't worry about them and if I am worried to just JB weld them. This my first tear down and hopefully stroke it with the rebuild. The holes to me appear to be from some kind of wear, but don't look like they will affect anything. Should I grind a little to prevent chipping or pieces flaking off. Note: I did see a picture of the XJ it came from and it was salvaged due to a bad passenger side collision...or so it appeared. Thanks, Wayman
