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Showing results for tags 'Jeep Scrambler'.
Found 10 results
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I recently ordered you book Jeep cj rebuilder's manual. It is due to arrive June 21. I am putting a 1994 yj 4.0 engine into my 1982 cj8. I did this about 20 yrs ago and used hesco harness. They don’t offer this any more but it looks like I can order one from mopar performance with the same part number p5007148 as the old hesco number. Would you have any idea if they are the same. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Himelright -
The power steering gear is the last frontier for my 81-- about everything else has been R&Rd. With low gears, big tires and an ARB up front this OEM part may be on borrowed time. Reading a hummer H1 box is a near exact drop in. Cardone 1 part number. 27-7595, it's a bolt in for the stock CJ P.S. gear it has the larger piston for less effort with a faster turning. This sounds like a mixed bag as for lock to lock ratios. For me, fewer turns the better. It has the right bolt holes and correct o ring couplings. I have done the drill out trick on the pump already. Better performance at low RPM. I see others that simply go with the napa generic unit. rebuilt or new? Agr? Psc? These are spendy. also note the access to CJ box components, hoses, etc very tight. I see some add a coupler mid line for easier servicing, etc. is there a suggested schedule to flush and fresh fill ps fluid? Never thought about that. if a newish box, does it make sense to have it ported for eventual hydro assist? Thanks guys! -
Well, progress has been slow due to work and family, but I spent a solid 6 hours on the CJ-7 project last night. I bought a new clutch linkage kit, as my lower and upper clutch rods were worn half way through, and the bellcrank was a mess. The new kit has an adjustable lower linkage rod with a ball joint instead of the old bent solid rod. And.....cue swearing. The 4.0 swap exhaust routing must be slightly different from stock (it's some kind of welded header instead of a cast iron manifold) because the ball and socket joint whacks the exhaust down tube solidly when the clutch pedal comes back to rest. After adjusting things for about an hour and trying the lower rod backwards, I conceded that it wasn't going to work and ordered a set of heim joint linkage rods to go with my nice new bellcrank and bushings. I have to say, the stock setup is a pretty questionable system. I guess maybe it gets points for simplicity, but for stoutness it is lacking. I know lots of folks have difficulty with the release lever jumping off the clutch fork, I wonder if there is a way to modify that to accept a ball and socket end for a positive mount instead of the old spring tension junk... -
Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses -
By 1972, AMC/Jeep Corporation was in full swing, producing the new generation Jeep 4x4s! This era represents the legendary CJ models that grew the brand to new heights and set benchmarks for engineering, design and sales. Join others who own and appreciate this unique group of vehicles, the 1972-86 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, Scrambler/CJ-8 and third generation AMC/Jeep Jeepster/Commando models!—Moses Ludel Moses Ludel's second Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual, covering 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® models. These years brought the Jeep CJ to the forefront, and consumers flocked to outdoor lifestyles and the popular sport of four-wheeling! An AMC/Jeep CJ does well both on- and off-highway, often with plenty of power, driving ease and comfort to spare!
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I am installing a front D44 front from a mid-70s Waggy in my 85 CJ-7. I have found some good write-ups on shortening the drivers side of the 44 to keep overall width the same. My current issue is that I want to convert the unit from the 6x5.5 Waggy pattern to the 5x5.5 CJ pattern. I have actually sourced a set of Ford outers, but am reading some things which concern me concerning later Waggy D44s maybe not being compatible because of some dimensional changes to the bearing. AS I am not sure of the year of the D44 I am now considering having a machine shop redrill some of the components on the Wagoneer outers to 5x5.5. Any opinions on the best way to achieve what I am trying to do? Thanks, hobbs -
Name is Mark, and I live at Reno. Wheeling since 1976, like 4x4s, ATVs, dirt bikes and my beloved, and sometimes hated, 1981 CJ8 Scrambler. Interested in all things Jeep! mb.
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Took the Eight out for a ride Sunday and all systems worked flawless. This is upper ledge Steve's Loop near Pyramid Lake, NV Near the top are some interesting 'wind caves' to explore. Access trail has a short section with slick rock like bedrock, but it was sprinkled with ball bearing-like dirt and sure enough, i slid sideways about 4' enough to pinch seat covers. compound winching was the fix along with a front dig thanks to the twin stick dana 300. Whew! short video. winching fun at the end Jeff's classic Commando is a real trail beast. The helper winch line was from Al Lockett, and for added leverage, went to top of the family roll cage. i then made the hard left pull. It is really steep there and video/photos do not convey the sense of oh my god sidehill action. you can see how the uphill pulling helped level it all out. Also having twin stick abilities really helped get the nose straight-- otherwise it just wanted to plow forward and gravity pulling into the deep abyss.
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Carter BBD Carburetor Issues
SramblingMan posted a topic in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Let me start off by saying I am a complete novice when it comes to mechanics. I figured the best way to learn is to jump in and start trying myself. My Jeep was running great the last time it was driven, but it has sat for about a year and now will not start. Not getting fuel, I read online about a quick fix for idle problems by clearing the venturi tubes. While following the directions, I took off the air horn to get to the venturi cluster. I was holding the air horn in one hand and looking at another part in the other hand, an O-ring gasket (approximately 1/4 inch) popped off the air horn and landed on my wrist. I have no idea where it popped off of and have not been able to find it on exploded view diagrams on the rebuild kit. The ring is in the kit but I cannot find it in the diagram. Any idea where this ring goes? What do you think the odds of a beginner being able to clean and rebuild this carburetor correctly? Thanks for any help... -
Moses...We spent another great extended weekend in the Black Rock with the CJ-8—except for one thing. On a day trip to High Rock Canyon, Jeep started to misfire and even backfire then just stopped running. We monkeyed around with 100 possible issues but soon learned only 20 psi at fuel rail. Would start, but give gas and die, or let idle and after a minute pressure slowly drops and engine dies. Then after further testing, pump stopped running and zero pressure. Ran a dedicated hot wire to pump hot lead near inlet and nothing...would not run. Had a spare external pump, and we cannibalized from 4 other Jeeps along, just could not make it work. Needed additional fuel lines and fittings, hose clamps, etc. We even back flowed the filter alongside the trail with what little lines we had and all sorts of black puke came out...Captured the fuel in a Coke bottle and saved it. Lots of black particles settled to bottom...So I suffered the indignity of being towed 60 miles over very silty, talcum power trail, near zero visibility (since strapped to a tow rig), and since we aired up the front tires to make steering and towing easy, a VERY rough ride. Hauled the CJ-8 to a friend's area ranch, and with help from their well stocked shop, I was able to cobble together a patch. Hose clamped the spare pump to frame rail and routed power and supply lines. What a pain! Taped a fuel pressure gauge to driver's mirror to monitor pressure on the long drive home. As for pressure, the engine idles at about 38 and bumps up to about 41 under acceleration, but no more. So plan is to cut a hole in the rear tub for future possible fails. The big question is, first, what replacement pump and are there psi values for that? Or does the regulator handle all that? Wonder whether more PSI will help run better. This is still a cold mother on start up—before doing some work, it often took 3 or 4 times to get to run. After temp sender fix, starts on 2nd try. Very likely failing pump contributed to recent performance issues. New pump will tell. And once the hatch is cut, I will carry a spare pump! Cutting the hole looks pretty straight forward. About 1" clearance, so start small and work outward. Don't want to cut the supply or return lines...In any event, will have to drop the tank to clean and see what's inside...It just might be easier to locate the access panel with the tank still in vehicle. Any thoughts on pump ratings, regulator or??? With those Ford 302 V-8 injectors, what PSI do they like to run properly? Are there any specific advantages to converting to a single fuel line supply system? I am SICK of dealing with intermittent fuel delivery issues and am now more than ever committed to designing a long-term fix. I wonder if the injectors are fuel starved? Mark
