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  1. I have a 85 scrambler which is in need of brake upgrade. I getting it back on the road after years of relaxation. I’m looking to add new disc setup to all 4 tires. booster and master double Plus all nee SS lines!! any suggestions on brands and or kits? jason
  2. I have an 82 cj with a dana 30 low pinion with 2:73 gears. I want to put 4:10 gears in it. Can I use a carrier and ring and pinion from a TJ wrangler or 2000-2001 XJ Cherokee mentioned in the dana 30 rebuild how to. I'm sure my pinion is long. I'm not sure if they are in the models mentioned above. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
  3. Hey Moses I am in the process of restoring a 1967 jeep cj5, I have replaced the drum brakes with disc front and back. I now would like to put new wheels and tires on I purchased a AR23 16x8 wheel and slid it onto the front axle all looked ok until I turned the wheel in ward and noticed I would not have enough space for any size tire. It looks like any new tire would rub on the suspension spring. Could you help me with what I am missing? Thanks! Kyle Cj5
  4. Moses, I have watched your videos regarding how to approach a stroker motor. I have read tons of info on the internet, and I've seen many calculators for quench height, combustion cylinder volume, etc. It really is baffling to me, and I've begun to realize I could invest a lot of money and end up with an engine that doesn't work. Is there any identifying info on the block that would allow you (or someone) to write me a "recipe" for what parts I need to build up a stroker? I'm realizing that the added weight of the full size truck axles and 38" tires are going to necessitate more power.
  5. Hi, I'm, new here but excited to have found this website! I have owned the "Jeep Owner's Bible" for a long time now and have gotten a lot out of it! I have restored and upgraded a 1983 CJ8 Scrambler in almost all ways, but not the brakes. I use it to tow a #2000 boat, for outdoor expeditions and some off-roading. 32" Duratrac tires on R16" steel wheels. Backseat and Full hardtop. Rebuilt 4.2L with Mopar MPI and 4.0L head conversion. Flanged Axle d20 rear. AX15 trans. Twin stick d300. 2.5" spring lift / 1" body lift. Recently I was driving at night near Moab, with 4 people in the
  6. Hi Im installing a new axleshaft and hub I've pressed the bearing on and slid the shaft in but the bearing doesn't seat flush is it supposed to be sticking out a 1/2 inch? I've slid the old one in and it's the same 1/2 inch sticking out does the brake plate suck it in place?
  7. Well, I have gotten the input shaft and front and rear output shafts and the bearing covers together and attached to the case. In trying to check and see how everything is fitting together I attempted to see how the shift rods moved. The rear output rod moves OK but is a little stiff. However the front output rod is almost impossible to move in and out. If I disconnect the front shift fork the rod will move in the case but it is still VERY hard With the front shift fork is disconnected it does not seem to move smoothly along the rod. Is this just an issue of there not being enough
  8. I drained the Dana 300 on my '84 CJ-7 and found the bits of metal shown in the attached photo. I also found, not pictured, what looks like half of a plastic sphere about a 1/4 inch in diameter. I have looked at several exploded diagrams of transfer cases and cannot find anything that resembles what I found. Any suggestions as to what these bits are from? Thanks
  9. Vehicle background: 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 4.2 with Hesco MPI kit Westside Performance Valve Cover (thick cast aluminum replica of the stock cover) T-18 four speed Dana 300 Dana 44 axles front and rear (4.27 to 1) 36" Swamper TSLs I bought this Jeep in 2003 odometer had 145,000 miles, now has 170,000, it does not get driven all that often. Plaque on the motor reads "MOPAR Performance", it is a mopar 4.2 crate motor with a remanufacture date of 1998. My estimate is that the motor has ~80,000 miles on it.
  10. Moses, I am starting the Twin Stick Dana 300 rebuild to address the jumping out on down grades issue. This unit had major work about 16K miles ago when a 4:1 gear kit was installed by a pervious owner. The Odometer now has 282K miles and most likely is was a California commuter Jeep in its early days (266K miles 1985 - 2003). This may be an interesting journey. First look don't seem too bad. Clocking Ring and Input Shaft. Clocking Ring Gasket was not salvageable. Not real sure what its function was as it is not a water or oil seal. Input Bearing Unit
  11. First, I'm not sure what I would do without your books. I'm a newbie mechanic restoring my own 82 CJ7. I have your Jeep Rebuilder's Manual and I have searched many forums. The complete MPFI kit came with my 82 CJ. I'm lucky because the kit was worth more than I paid for the entire Jeep. With some help from a mechanic friend the install of the MPFI has been pretty straightforward. I still have some factory wiring issues (what I need to use, what I don't) but I'll go slow and steady and figure out. My question is mainly around what needs to be connected to the charcoal canister that c
  12. The power steering gear is the last frontier for my 81-- about everything else has been R&Rd. With low gears, big tires and an ARB up front this OEM part may be on borrowed time. Reading a hummer H1 box is a near exact drop in. Cardone 1 part number. 27-7595, it's a bolt in for the stock CJ P.S. gear it has the larger piston for less effort with a faster turning. This sounds like a mixed bag as for lock to lock ratios. For me, fewer turns the better. It has the right bolt holes and correct o ring couplings. I have done the drill out trick on the pump already. Better performanc
  13. Going to swap my old 258 w/ 4.0 head for a 99 model 4.0 in my 84 CJ-8. Already have the mpfi setup, just going to use it along with the TF999 trans. Question is will the flexplate and starter both work on the 99 4.0 engine? I've been told that I need the flexplate that fits the engine and to drill it to fit the trans. torque converter. Just need to know which is correct. Thanks
  14. Good morning all, I recently completed a front and rear differential gear swap on my '83 CJ. This included new carriers with a Spartan Locker up front and an Eaton TruTrac in an AMC20 in back. I went with 4.10 gears, and had the U-joints replaced at a truck driveline shop on both driveshafts at the same time. Now that every thing is reassembled, I'm noticing a rattle or buzz coming from the transfer case shifter about 40 MPH or above. I would describe it as sounding like a bunch of nuts and bolts being shaken in a metal can. It seems most noticeable on acceleration or steady speed. It is a
  15. Moses, I am pressing forward with the reverse engineering and documentation of my 85 CJ7. I have run into a snag and hope you can shed some light. The front axle has been upgraded to a dana 44. The wheel base appears to be the stock wide track CJ of 56" WMS to WMS. Both Inner axles appear to be custom length (28 7/8" and 15 1/2") 30 spline. Now for the question. The outer axles do not appear to be customized and at first appearance seem to be "CJ" (8.72" 27 Spline) CJ spindle, 6 bolt locking hubs, 6 bolt brake caliper and rotor, and etc, however the outer axles have the larger 1
  16. This exchange began as a discussion between Forums Administrator Moses Ludel and Moderator snoopy2x [Maury]...Owning a vintage Jeep® or Willys 4x4 vehicle often means running out of replacement parts...Maury is willing to restore his 1967 Jeep® CJ-5 ignition switch if practical...In this exchange, Moses and Maury discuss the restoration process and various ways to proceed: Original CJ Ignition Switch Rebuild? () snoopy2x Started conversation: December 10 · Report Moses, I'm now considering the rebuild of a part I'm having a h
  17. Driving along our local Main Street, I came upon this 1979 AMC era Jeep CJ-5 for sale. As advertised by the seller, this vehicle has undergone extensive work and restorative effort...Price wise, it's evident that the market for vintage Jeep iron has heated up! Before considering the sticker shock price, note that this Jeep has a new steel tub and a variety of restorative parts. Worth commenting, it still needs work, and a 1979 model has its pros and cons. First off, this is near the end of the somewhat brief (1972-80, 1980 V-8 applications seem rare) 304 V-8 option era. By 1981, C
  18. Hi Moses ive had a seal blow out in the steering box i have no idea why but ill give it all a good clean & polish the shaft & replace the seals while i was at it i got carried away & pulled the engine out to put the 4.6 stroker ive had sitting in the corner of the shed in it so i took some pics of the empty engine bay to show you notice that the front 1/2 of the chasis is boxed back to the back end of the gear box i bought an xj the other day it was only $1000 & came with a dead 1 for parts but it gets hot on the beach but is ok on the road cheers ian
  19. Looking for info on this swap... I have a air leak in my 83 CJ power brake booster, i need a new or reman booster of course but im thinking take the opportunity to upgrade (if it is one). Anybody done this YJ to CJ booster swap or have good info please share. thanks
  20. Getting my 225 back together, not rebuilt, I just took it apart to look things over. Question I have is how difficult should my oil pump turn. I did put in a melling high volume kit a couple years ago, I just don't remember what it felt like. I wanted to confirm oil flow so I rigged up a priming tool, one handed is somewhat hard. I put it on my drill motor and it really makes the drill work to turn it. Definitely pumps oil (all the way across my garage) just a little concerned with the pump. Any thoughts?
  21. Anyone know if it is critical what direction the oil hole in the lifter faces on my 225 odd fire. I popped them out to look at the cam, I kept them in order, but did not pay attention to this. Any thoughts? Thank you, Bryan
  22. Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main
  23. As part of my rear disc brake conversion, I bought an external 2psi residual valve from Wilwood. My plan was to remove the stock drum residual valve from the master cylinder and use the inline valve, but I just realized something: 1. My aftermarket disc/drum master cylinder has left and right outlets, two for the front line and two for the back. I guess the idea was to give options for left or right brake line outlets if space was tight. I have one port on each half of the MC plugged. If I'm not mistaken, that means that I have two drum residual valves (10psi) and two disc residual valves (
  24. I was looking my 1985 Jeep CJ's amc 20 rear axle today and realized that there is no fill plug on the cover. How do you put any fluid in it after draining it? l'm definitely NOT an expert at this. Your advice?
  25. Since the early 'sixties era of closed crankcase devices and the later carbureted engine emission controls era, owners have wondered whether to restore or eliminate devices. Aside from the legality issues, there are times when these devices have either little negative effect or may even provide some benefits. For those unaware, my answer to a Jeep CJ-7 owner's emissions modifications may help. I'd also add that Jeep pioneered the closed crankcase on the MB WWII model, and this equivalent to a PCV system eliminated the common road draft tube. An open road draft tube would have swamped thes
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