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  1. The magazine recently purchased a 2000 Honda XR650R motorcycle with less than 1000 original miles on the bike. An honest and forthright previous owner could not start the engine, and given the mileage, we agreed that the problem was stale winter (ethanol) fuel—which had eaten up the plastic tank screen! I trailered the cycle home and looked forward to restoring the fuel system and completing the dual-sport conversion process. The motorcycle will be an HD video shooting platform for remote backcountry documentary filming and off-pavement event coverage, so the XR650R's low mileage seemed a huge asset. After 20 hours of prepping the cycle for a Nevada dual-sport inspection, including some minor tuning and checking out the bike's general condition, I discovered that the 650 thumper engine would not start. Consulting two friends with XR650Rs, I assumed that my starting technique was the culprit. A heavy cardio workout later, it was apparent that the compression was lacking. I did a quick compression gauge check and discovered a 95 PSI cranking compression issue. (To assure an accurate reading, make sure the auto-decompression mechanism is not holding the valves open when performing a compression test!) My next step was a cylinder leak down test, which I have covered in detail with an HD video how-to feature. (Click here to view the HD video how-to procedure and results!) The leak down test pinpointed leaking intake and exhaust valves; a look inside the cylinder (through the spark plug hole) also indicated scoring at the upper wall of the Nikasil cylinder plating. Time for an upper engine tear down, which I cover as a step-by-step HD video: Click here to see the how-to series at the 4WD Mechanix HD Video Network's freshly launched "The Off-Road Motorcycle Channel". So, how did a "bulletproof" Honda XR650R motorcycle, with less than 1000 miles since new, end up with a worn out set of valves and leaky piston and rings? The answer is two-fold: 1) the motorcycle had an incomplete "uncorking" job with a partial "Honda Power-Up Kit" installed and 2) a leaking aftermarket air filter had seeped abrasive dirt into the air stream and through the engine's intake system. The air filter issue is notorious for pitting valves, scoring an upper cylinder and damaging piston rings on motorcycle and automotive engines. An incomplete uncorking calls attention to an ever important problem for any motorcycle engine modification: the need to re-jet the carburetor to compensate for improved intake flow or a less restrictive exhaust system! The "Power-Up Kit" opened up the exhaust cap on the muffler and reduced exhaust backpressure (basically an HRC end cap). The cycle is a non-California model, so there was no restrictive "D" molding in the intake manifold grommet. (The non-California intake manifold is considered the unrestricted air intake, often sold as the upgrade for better breathing.) The pilot jet had the Power Up Kit's #68 sizing, though not the specific "68s" style. However, for some unfathomable reason, the main jet in place was still the ultra-lean, original 125 main jet! The most important ingredient in the uncorking process for a Honda XR650R motorcycle engine is the unrestricted rubber intake manifold and a jetting change to a 175 main jet and 68s pilot jet (base line at sea level). Exhaust modifications help further, the stock OE muffler's exit flow and end cap are ridiculously small for a 650 thumper! How important is the 175 main jet and 68s pilot? Important enough to be the OEM jet sizing on all Honda XR650R engines sold outside of North America! The U.S. engines were leaned to the limit by E.P.A. requirements, and California models (XR650R AC designation) were even more restricted by a draconian reshape and air flow restriction in the rubber intake manifold and the intake air box. So, this uncorked, non-California model had its exhaust opened and uncapped—plus the removal of air intake box restrictors. The EPA regulated (non-California) cycle already had the open, round intake manifold. It was in severe need of the 175 main jet, however, which the dealer neglected to install with the power tuning! The result is clear. Despite the low mileage, this engine was busy overheating its upper cylinder and valves. Upon tear down, which you can follow in the HD video linked above, the engine's upper cylinder looked more like a Baja 1000 Race finisher than 1000 miles of reasonable recreational riding. Fortunately, the previous owner had used quality lubricant and changed oil filters regularly. The XR650R's unique liquid cooling (the only XR to ever offer it!) also helped minimize damage and isolate the wear to the cylinder plating, piston skirts, rings and valves. The main engine assembly is still in near-new condition. I'm now in the process of rebuilding the upper engine. The head and cylinder have been sublet to L.A. Sleeve Company. My approach will likely be an alloy iron/chrome/moly, patented L.A. Sleeve liner in place of the factory Nikasil. Though many are fans of Nikasil, I'm not thrilled that's its only a "plating" thick. This Honda XR650R has a lot of work ahead, and it must be ultra reliable. I may consider a Stage 1 Hot Cams alternative, mainly to eliminate the auto-decompression mechanism on the OE camshaft. Compression ratio will remain the stock 10:1 with the new upgrade piston, enough squeeze for higher altitudes and the limit for kick starting and long piston ring life! Quality machine work, a fresh cylinder and upgrade piston choice, renewed valves and proper assembly technique will have this motorcycle living up to its legendary reputation—with a 175 main jet and 68* pilot jet in its Keihin carburetor! Follow the rebuild how-to coverage at the magazine's The Off-Road Motorcycle Channel—in 1080P HD video! *Note: The carburetor had a straight 68 jet installed, and I will see if the 68s is necessary. There is a difference in the flow between these two varieties. Honda's Power-Up Kit does call for the 68s and also a needle change if necessary. I will fine tune as needed, though that would be anticipated at northern Nevada. Our home base is 4,500 feet elevation and high desert; the average/mean elevation at Nevada is 5,500 feet! Moses
  2. Hi Moses, I have a question about the dual-sport lighting conversion that was done on your Honda XR650R. I'm wondering what type of flasher relay was used for the turn signals. I'm trying to (re)install the turn signals on mine and, being ignorant about things electric, I am concerned that a bike with no battery may need a flasher that is different from bikes (or cars) that have batteries. The original flasher (OEM for this world-market ED/DK model) was cut out of the harness and thrown away at some point (can't figure out why though...). I went out today to find a replacement - thinking that any 12V moto flasher would do - but was only able to find 2-wire flashers, while the Honda harness provides for 3 wires. Furthermore, I was not able to find any flashers for bikes that don't have batteries. I'll look at car flashers next, but obviously none of those will have a non-battery electric system. Even if I had a source for Honda parts here, I'm not sure if the OEM flasher is available anymore - I went on the site selling international market Honda parts, and while the flasher is shown in the diagram, it is not in the price list. Are my concerns unfounded? Is a flasher just a flasher - and I only need to find one with the right amount of terminals? I know that some are designed to be impacted by the voltage draw (depending on the bulbs used), so I may end up with a fast or a slow flash, but it'd be great to at least have some kind of signal working for when I ride on the street. I can tune the flash later by changing bulbs (assuming I can find variants). Feedback welcome! David
  3. Many of today's dirt motorcycles have electric starting, and this is a very good idea for the contemporary ultra-high compression four-stroke singles! For these operators, unless the starter fails to work, manual kicking has become a thing of the past... Despite this trend, there are still many kick-start Honda four-stroke motorcycle engines that have an "auto-decompressor" start mechanism. This device, typically mounted at one end of the overhead camshaft, unseats an exhaust valves during crankshaft rotation. The aim is to relieve compression as the piston approaches TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke, only during kick start phase. Once the engine starts, the mechanism disengages the ramp/cam that opens the exhaust valve during kick starting. On my Honda XR650R engine, the OEM camshaft was still in place when I purchased the bike. The engine did not run, and repeated attempts to kick it over proved futile. Eventually, I ran a leak down test and discovered a considerable loss of compression caused by leaking intake valves. Despite this low compression, the kick starter repeatedly balked as if the auto-decompressor was stuck off. Even with leaking intake and exhaust valves, the engine would not kick over easily. The auto-decompressor was stuck in the off-position and acting as if not even there! Large piston displacement gave a false sense of "compression". The bike had set for some time, and perhaps this accounted for the condition of the auto-decompressor. It felt like the mechanism was sticking in the released position, providing no decompression. Even with the low compression from leaking valves, I found myself using the hand lever decompressor to "free" up the compression resistance and what felt like a jammed kick starter. Note: Wondering why an engine with leaking intake valves would still be hard to kick over? This is not hard to explain with the volume of air that this huge piston can displace, an overwhelmingly large amount compared to the amount leaking off from valve face-to-seat seepage. Given the kick start resistance, I never suspected worn, leaking valves. In fact, all four valves had a fair degree of seepage. By the time I committed to the leak down test that led to the upper engine rebuild, I had researched the XR650R engine. I'd also had enough experience (i.e., cardio workout) with the auto-decompressor to seek an aftermarket replacement camshaft without the auto-decompressor. I was not opposed to using a manual decompressor lever and knew from my first experience with a BSA 441 Victor how to find that special point, just past TDC on the compression stroke, where the engine kicks through without kicking back. Part of my rebuild was the choice to install a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft. This is a milder performance approach that provides more bottom end and midrange power—and a camshaft that eliminates auto-decompression. I'm good with my decision to eliminate auto-decompression and am curious how others have made peace with the factory start mechanism. Am I the only one whose auto-decompressor has stuck or jammed? I could have rebuilt and polished the OEM auto-decompressor, as the mechanism can be rebuilt. I opted out. Is everyone else happy with the stock camshaft and auto-decompressor? Please share your experiences here...An auto-decompressor is not unique to the Honda XR650R, they come in many forms and configurations, like the kick-start mechanism on my '84 XR350R, still a valve unseating approach, that has worked flawlessly and easily for three decades. From the XR600R forward, the auto-decompressor attaches to the camshaft and has a one-way clutch mechanism. How does that work for others? Moses
  4. Dear Mr. Moses Ludel! First of all, thank you for making these awesome videos, I really liked them! In the one, where you one-kick start the xr, if only there would have been some explanation too, I hear lots of people are strugling with that. Yesterday I subscribed to some of you videos on vimeo, because I would like to learn to be my own mechanic. I am about to buy a Honda xr650r bike on this monday, for this I am traveling 1300 kilometers to Italy and back home. I wish if only I have found your videos on Vimeo and these forums earlier! I am very excited about the trip. I do not want to bore (all of) you with personal details, it is enough that I fell in love with this bike and I cant wait to have my own. I have very little knowledge about what should I pay attention to, when selecting the bike, so because of this, I kindly ask your guidance. There are two brp models that I am going to choose from. One of them (Bike A) costs 2500, the other (Bike costs 3400 euros. Bike A is close to factory state - as far as I can tell - with 11000 km only. Bike B is around 25000 km but spoiled with lots of supermoto extras. No blue smoke, no cylinder jingle that I noticed by neither of them. (I asked the sellers to send me high res pictures and video with the engine running.)e Because at first I am planning to use the bike as a supermoto, I consider the two of them equals, because I will buy the extras either way. Both of them are street legal, and documents are fine. However I prefer Bike A, I would like the adventure of building my own supermoto. Either I use it at first as an SM or as an enduro, I am sure I will learn to ride a bike really well. (I only had naked and speed bikes earlier.) So may I ask your advice, Please, what should I really pay attention to when checking them? What noise or rusty-ness should I give special attention, and basically how should I compare the bikes of totally different cost ranges? Tomorrow, I have an opportunity to take a peek on two other xr650r in my home country, so the ones I will see in Italy should not be the first time I ever see a BRP in life Blind love, it is what it is Thank you very much! Kind regards, Sandor
  5. Snow drifts blocking your favorite dirt bike riding venues? Rainy season drenching the ground and making knee-deep mud? Does the down time in the off-season have you itching for a good ride? While you're going to the gym and anticipating the next riding season, check out this well done motorcycle enduro and trials technique instructional video depicting pro riders at South Africa! A hearty thanks to these professionals for sharing...
  6. Given the opportunity to test the Pulstar® PlasmaCore spark plugs, we targeted the magazine's Honda XR350R and XR650R motorcycles. The XR350R is air cooled, the XR650R has liquid cooling. Both cycles use fixed jet, slide type carburetors. The XR350R has twin Keihin carburetors, the XR650R uses a single, large Keihin carburetor. We rode the bikes extensively. The XR350R is OHV permitted for dirt only use, and that testing took place in high desert and mountainous terrain, both dirt roads and single track. The XR650R with its dual-sport conversion received a full test at both dirt and asphalt riding. The HD video shares installation details, riding footage and an evaluation of the Pulstar® spark plugs: The magazine article is available at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. We will continue testing and discussing these spark plugs at the magazine and these forums! Here are our test results and findings: Honda XR650R Motorcycle—This bike is a highway legal dual-sport conversion and ongoing project feature at the magazine. The top-engine is freshly rebuilt to "blueprint" standards, featuring a cylinder head overhaul by L.A. Sleeve Company and a moly-chrome cylinder liner with new piston and rings. We performed all work as a how-to project that became a feature HD instructional video at Vimeo On Demand. The head and upper engine work includes a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft. Spark timing and valve timing are "stock" with Honda Power-Up Kit tuning. This popular "uncorking" of the engine's jetting, induction system and exhaust have each been covered in detail at the magazine and the magazine's forums. This iconic motorcycle model has a large following, as the XR650R is the largest displacement enduro single cylinder bike built by Honda specifically to win the Baja 1000 and other open desert races. The magazine's viewers and forum members have followed the performance gains made with this engine build-up and tuning. The addition of the Enerpulse Pulstar® spark plug provided these noticeable results: 1) Since the rebuild and tuning, the engine has produced superior torque (49 lb-ft estimated) and a high horsepower output (approximately 55 horsepower). Along with the Pulstar® spark plug change, we added a 6.3 gallon fuel tank (5 extra gallons of fuel at approximated 40 pounds net weight gain between the fuel and the large tank) to the motorcycle. Testing the Pulstar® spark plug, performance with the additional weight is slightly better than with the lighter 2.6 gallon factory fuel tank. 40 extra pounds is significant for a dirt enduro motorcycle. When we reinstalled the 2.6 gallon tank for further testing, acceleration and throttle response showed noticeable improvement. Torque increased, and fewer downshifts were necessary under load. 2) A converted dual-sport, highway legal machine, the XR650R is kick start only. Tuning has enabled ready starts with a stock-type NGK spark plug. The Pulstar® spark plug fires the engine with equal ease. 3) Flooding is always a concern on a large displacement single cylinder motorcycle engine. The Pulstar® spark plug strongly resists fuel fouling. The spark plug readily fires through richer mixtures at altitude. 4) This engine has a fixed-jet factory Keihin slide-type carburetor. Altitude sensitivity is always an issue with fixed jets. Larger displacement engines are more susceptible to fuel fouling at higher altitudes. The Pulstar® spark plug, with superior spark output and more complete fuel burn, clearly maximizes performance over a wider range of altitude—even with a fixed jet carburetor. During the road and dirt testing, this motorcycle operated between 4,400 and 7,600 feet elevation with no sign of "rich" mixture spark plug fouling. The fixed carburetor jet setting is for 1,500 and 5,000 feet elevation. Clearly, the Pulstar® spark plugs burn cleaner and more efficiently, producing better power and performance at higher altitudes. Honda XR350R Motorcycle—This OHV bike is strictly set up for dirt riding. The stock motorcycle was upgraded for desert hare-and-hound scrambles, tuned and jetted for optimal performance at 4,400 feet altitude with the stock factory dual Keihin carburetors. In top condition, with normal compression and peak tuning, the only change was the switch to a Pulstar® spark plug. Our extensive testing in the high desert and mountains spans from 4,000 feet elevation to 6,500 feet elevation. A single cylinder, air cooled engine provides an optimal test bed for combustion and fuel burn comparisons. Pulstar® spark plug test conclusions: 1) Starting is easy whether cold or hot. Starts readily with the choke on. Warms normally as with the stock type NGK spark plug. 2) Throttle response is crisp and noticeably improved. Engine stability under load has improved, requiring less downshifting to compensate for load. (Watch the video.) 3) Again, the most significant gain is less sensitivity to altitude changes with fixed jets in these two carburetors. We operated the motorcycle from 4,000-6,500 feet without adjusting the carburetors or altering the jets. The motorcycle performed flawlessly. 4) This motorcycle has always been miserly on fuel compared to two-stroke engines or larger displacement four-stroke thumpers. Testing revealed a noticeable improvement in fuel efficiency. The motorcycle ran our pre-determined course under load and used less fuel-per-hour than with the stock-type NGK spark plug. This improvement can only be attributed to the Enerpulse Pulstar® spark plug. We'll continue to evaluate these spark plugs over time. They offer a significant breakthrough in spark and combustion technology. Enjoy the video! Moses
  7. The magazine's Honda XR650R performs remote field work as an HD video filming platform. Reliability is essential. After purchasing the bike in non-running condition, I ran a compression test when the engine refused to start. I moved from the simple compression test to a full-fledged cylinder leak down test, the pinpoint diagnostic tool of choice. Want to know more about a leak down test? Click here for the 4WD Mechanix HD Video Network feature and details on the leak down test! High cylinder leakage called for a top end inspection and repairs. That tear down for inspection can be found at the magazine as the HD video how-to: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Honda-XR650R-Motorcycle-Upper-Engine-Rebuild-Part-1-Tear-Down-How-to.html. At left is the cylinder leak down test covered in the HD video how-to. At right is the actual top engine tear down, part of the current rebuild. See both HD videos at the magazine for details! The step-by-step teardown, rebuild and assembly are now a single HD video streaming rental at Vimeo On Demand. Included in this rental is a bonus feature on valve adjustment (which is also available as a separate streaming rental). You will find this 54-minute feature at: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/hondaxr650r. Here is a review of that rental video: "Coming across this video couldn't have been more fortuitous - both in timing and content. I happened to inherit a motorcycle of the exact same type and with the exact same problems as the one starring in the clip. The author/producer treats the subject thoroughly and with close-ups giving great detail of the matter at hand. Not only that, he has an online magazine with a forum through which he is eminently available for input and feedback. Having watched this gave me the confidence to embark on the solution on my own - saving loads of money and learning in the process."—David E.
  8. So, I have this Euro model XR650R project, and I acquired the bike right. As the upper engine rebuild and other restorative measures unfold, I'm starting to wonder what is a reasonable amount to invest here? The engine work and all the other parts I've bought are pushing things pretty close to $2k - and this bike can't be worth much more than that! Furthermore, I dropped nearly as much on new gear (helmet, boots, gloves, etc...) DON'T TELL MY WIFE! Cheers, David
  9. Building a motorcycle engine for reliable performance begins with careful assembly work. The Honda XR650R project came under the close scrutiny of an HD video camera, and the result is the 49:37-minute streaming video rental at Vimeo On Demand. Following the build, proper break-in of the engine is crucial. During assembly of the XR650R top-engine, care was taken to lubricate critical parts for the initial engine startup. This included lube on the piston pin, rings, valve stems, camshaft, valve tips and timing chain—as illustrated and detailed in the video. Lubeguard Assembly Lube, Permatex Ultra-Slick Assembly Lube and Lucas break-in oil with zinc were each used accordingly. The importance of zinc additive during break-in cannot be overstated. When a cylinder has been honed precisely like the work performed at L.A. Sleeve Company, piston ring seating is less of a concern than the camshaft break-in. Ring seating is still important, and I will describe my technique for ring-to-cylinder wall break-in: To begin, I use a non-synthetic oil that will provide enough friction to actually seat the rings. Synthetic oil often has too much of a protective film to allow necessary friction. After break-in, I will change to full-synthetic oil and dramatically decrease ring wear by providing an extra friction barrier or film between the cylinder wall and rings. Ring seating can be dramatically enhanced by smoothly accelerating the engine and decelerating the engine. Heavy throttle for sustained periods should be avoided for an initial timeframe (at least an hour of operation or 60-100 miles of road use). When you decelerate the engine, the piston rings push out against the cylinder wall. As noted in the video, the top compression ring for the Honda XR650R has a gas ledge machined on its upward facing, inside edge. This raises ring pressure against the cylinder wall, especially during acceleration/deceleration cycles. This increased pressure quickly seats the rings. Caution: A sure way to prevent rings from seating is repeated hard acceleration without any deceleration cycles. Gradual acceleration, limiting peak rpm and regular deceleration cycles get the best results. Camshaft break-in is highly significant. Damage to a new camshaft's lobes during break-in can occur quickly. The absence (deletion) of zinc from current motor oils has made this issue even more critical. (I discuss this at length in response to a Jeep 4.0L flat tappet camshaft and oil question here at the forums, read that information at the topic link.) On the Honda XR650R engine, an aftermarket camshaft from Hot Cams came with very specific instructions on initial startup and break-in. I include those concerns in my camshaft startup and break-in approach: During upper engine assembly, Lucas break-in oil with zinc was added to the oil (poured over the camshaft) prior to startup. The amount used was based on the product's instructions, and I reduced the quantity in proportion to the quantity of oil in the Honda XR650R lubrication system. At the first startup, the engine was run at 2,500 rpm immediately after picking up oil pressure. On the motorcycle lift and strapped upright, the motorcycle's engine was cycled between 2,500-3,000 rpm with a large electric fan in front of the cooling radiators for the first 20 minutes before idling down to 1500 rpm. (I used an infrared thermal gun to monitor cylinder, head and exhaust header heat this entire time.) After the initial 20-minute run on the stand, the initial road/trail miles involve a cycling speed between 1400 rpm (idle) and an estimated maximum of 3,500-4,000 rpm (no tachometer on this dirt bike). I run for 20-30 minutes at a time, varying the road or trail speeds, then cool the engine completely before repeating the cycle. Make sure that your lighter on-road or on-trail use provides sufficient cooling air to the radiators and cylinder. Earlier morning or cooler evening rides are helpful. Avoid idling for extended periods, and avoid over-revving the engine. I avoid redline shifts for at least the first 100-150 miles or 1.5-2 hours of operation. Considering the operating speeds for a four-stroke motorcycle engine compared to an automotive engine, three hours (approximately 200 miles) of concentrated effort to break-in the camshaft properly should be sufficient. Rings should be sufficiently seated now...At this point, the oil should be drained warm and thoroughly; I switch to synthetic oil now. Note: During this oil change on the XR650R engine, I will remove the frame (down tube) oil screen (not the inside-engine screen) for inspection and cleaning. A new oil filter is mandatory; inspect the removed oil filter for unusual debris. In the road test video, I'm on the throttle but not redlining. I don't baby (never "lug") or abuse (do not over-rev or throttle hard) an engine during break-in. Constantly monitor engine temperature and avoid overheating or extensive idling. The Honda XR650R showed no signs of "blue smoke" (ring blowby or valve guide seepage) from the very first start onward. You should not see blue smoke or significant oil consumption if the cylinder has been honed properly, the rings were installed correctly and the valve guides are sealing. By 200 miles or 3 hours of operation, a motorcycle engine should have sufficient break-in to no longer be a critical concern. As long as oil consumption (ring blowby) does not occur with the switch to synthetic oil, the engine is ready for reasonably "normal" use—whatever that means for your riding style. For the properly built engine, with correct break-in, a quality synthetic oil will determine the lifespan of the rings, valve guides, timing chain, camshaft, rocker arms, engine bearings, piston/pin, and other critical moving parts. Wear is greatly reduced by the use of synthetic oil. Unlike an automobile or truck engine, wear will be much more significant on a motorcycle engine that operates consistently above 3,000 rpm. Wear is all about piston travel and valve opening events, and synthetic oil can make a difference here. Moses
  10. The magazine's Honda XR650R motorcycle came to life this week! After months of sublet machine work, parts delays and time management challenges, the HD video series on rebuilding the engine top end has now finished. The camshaft choice, Hot Cams' Stage 1 type, and sublet machine work to L.A. Sleeve Company was followed by my "blueprint" assembly job and precision tune-up to match the engine changes. Learn more about the uncorking and Honda "Power Up Kit" guidelines, plus the ways to compensate for our 4,400-foot base altitude. How did this turn out?...Well, judge for yourselves fellow members! This is one incredible machine that lives up to its iconic reputation and legendary performance reputation. Enjoy the test ride, I sure did! Click here for access to the HD video. If you need detailed instructional on performing this work, I produced a nearly 50-minute 1080P HD video that has just been released at Vimeo On Demand. The very detailed how-to, step-by-step 1080P HD instructional video can be viewed from mobile platforms to big, wide-screen televisions! The Vimeo On Demand page for Honda XR650R coverage is www.vimeo.com/ondemand/hondaxr650r. At the page, you will also find an additional Vimeo On Demand how-to on valve adjustment for four-stroke motorcycle engines with conventional rocker arm adjusters. The prototype is the Honda XR650R engine. These steps are included as a "bonus" in the Honda XR650R upper engine rebuild streaming video. The 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Series Vimeo On Demand rentals are for a full 30 day period each—rent the extensive Honda XR650R rebuild video for only $9.99 or the valve adjustment standalone video for just $5.99! Everyone runs into parts and machining sublet delays on a project...I thought it best to provide a lengthy and realistic viewing window. Case in point: The Honda XR650R was a true test of "delayed gratification". Purchased at the end of September 2013, it took until May 1st to ride the BRP for the first time! Trust you'll find the content at Vimeo On Demand valuable. I look forward to expanding the Vimeo On Demand playlist for 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Series pages! Moses
  11. I pulled the oil filter and passed a large magnet over it but I did not pick up any ferrous metal. The close up photo of the filter reveals many small chips of aluminum. Well all I have to do is open up the motor and start looking for a bright shiny spot! This is the filter out of the 2006 salvage bike.
  12. I bought this 2002 KLR engine from a listing in craigslist for $100. The previous owner stripped out the oil drain plug threads then attempted to use a tapered bolt that spread the stripped threads and cracked the engine case. I have another set of engine halves. I could transfer parts from this damaged engine into the good case halves, but I was wondering if this case could be repaired as it sits? I'm pretty sure that the case is made of cast aluminum.
  13. Demand for more off-pavement motorcycle coverage has led to the launch of 'The Off-Road Motorcycle Channel' at the 4WD Mechanix Magazine's HD Video Network! The new channel covers dirt, off-road and dual-sport motorcycles, including tech how-to, step-by-step tuning and repairs, troubleshooting, backcountry riding and survival tips—everything related to off-road and dual purpose/dual-sport motorcycling! Inspired by the needs of the magazine's 2000 Honda XR650R motorcycle, the channel launched with HD video tech how-to coverage in Vimeo Pro 1080P full-screen detail. Whether you own an iconic XR650R Honda big-bore XR thumper motorcycle or a similar four-stroke, overhead camshaft motorcycle, you'll find the launch coverage of interest. The Honda XR650R cylinder head inspection after tear down. See the full HD video coverage. Check out 'The Off-Road Motorcycle Channel' playlist at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/The-Off-Road-Motorcycle-Channel.html! Moses
  14. There's never been a time when someone else performed my motorcycle service work...Having always purchased "pre-owned" bikes, more than a dozen of them over the last half-century, there's never been a warranty requirement for taking a cycle "back to the dealer"... Of course, I strongly support OEM tech training and service work performed to factory specs at the dealership. For those who do not want to work on their own cycle, I recommend factory-trained techs and tooling. OEM parts are always a plus, I'm a frequent customer for genuine Honda and other brand parts... I enjoy several things about motorcycle work. Since I like to spin wrenches, and many of us do, motorcycles are a great place to build and retain skills. Motorcycle work is far less cumbersome than automotive and truck work, although I'm well schooled and trained at both. At home, our neighbors are way more comfortable watching me tune a dirt motorcycle than dropping and rebuilding an automatic transmission from a 4x4 truck...So much for suburbia, anyway... The additional benefits of working on your own cycle, especially a dirt bike headed to remote places, are self-sufficiency and acquiring troubleshooting skills. You know your way around the motorcycle and can quickly become oriented for repairs or emergency fixes in the field. My earliest sense of motorized accomplishment was the restoration of a 1955 Cushman/Allstate scooter. The $8 "discovery", with a loudly knocking motor, tossed its connecting rod on my first ride—the loose rod snapped the camshaft in half and destroyed the iron block casting. The incentive for bringing that scooter back was to ride on Nevada's streets and highways, legally, at the age of 14. That Cushman scooter launched my lifelong interest in motorcycle, automotive and truck service work and technology. Fifty years later, I vividly recall passing my written license exam and the satisfaction I had with the engine and other work to get—and keep—that Cushman running. I still enjoy motorcycle work, and to celebrate my 50th year of riding and working on road and dirt motorcycles, I invested in a Harbor Freight 1000# motorcycle lift...Check out the forum post at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/index.php/topic/83-harbor-freight-1000-motorcycle-lift—best-buy-on-the-planet/ Moses
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