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Found 14 results

  1. Hi, Just joined but have been using these forums for a while for information. SO I have an 88 YJ with the TBI. My issue all started when I went to get it smogged last year. Short story it failed 3 times for high NOX @ 35mph. By the third failure I had replaced every sensor I could replace, including the EGR. The cataliytic converter only has about 1000 miles. I do have the snap-on diagnostic tester, just looking for some direction to narrow my troubleshooting. Currently the jeep wont idle on its own and I can smell that it is running very rich and it seems to run a bit rough. T
  2. On the passenger side engine compartment on my 89 yj 2.5 liter there is some diagnostic plug in connectors. which one is the connector for the isa motor control? Which one is D-1 and D-2? How are each individual holes in connectors numbered ( 1-2-3-4-5-6 etc>)?
  3. I recently bought a 1990 Jeep YJ with 4 cyl 2.5 TBI engine. The jeep runs great except during warm-up. It starts fine and runs and idles well initially. As soon as the temperature gauge begins to climb off the 100 degree mark, the engine begins hunting and surging and usually stalls. If I push down on the accelerator and run it to 1000+ rpm, I can get the engine to heat up to operating temperature. At that point (~160-170F) the idle becomes stable again. So far I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting but have checked the EGR valve, changed rotor/cap, air filter, and fuel filter with no s
  4. I have replaced the gasket around the dist shaft, not much more that a week later it is leaking again. I used a feel-pro gasket, I have always had good luck with them. This area of the engine isn't pressurized is it? Both surfaces were very clean when I put it together. Possible that the crankcase isn't venting?
  5. I have purchased an 87 yj tbi 2.5. With help from this site I have been tinkering with this thing trying to get it to run as its suppose to especially in this cold weather. I was looking at my egr valve while I was replacing the vacuum lines and noticed it was unhooked and the line feeding it is plugged. I did notice that the vacuum port on the egr was facing the front of the jeep, that seems to be the wrong direction to me.
  6. AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating
  7. There has been a long thread of exchanges at Timmy960's topic on harsh shifting after rebuilding an AX15 transmission. The problem around 3rd/4th gear shift issues has a basis in the redesign of the synchronizer sleeve, bronze blocking rings and the third gear cog teeth for the sleeve engagement. Jason Logan and I had an exchange about this issue when he rebuilt his '99 TJ Wrangler unit. That exchange was just prior to the launch of the forums. For the benefit of all AX15 rebuilders, I am starting a new topic around this issue, beginning with the in-depth Q&A exchange that Jason Logan
  8. I am looking at used jeeps and I will be a first time jeep owner. I am interested in CJs or YJs. I want the jeep mostly for hunting and putt-ing around town. As far as engines go, do you think a 4 cyl would be okay for what I want and not get me in trouble in the mountains, or should I just look at the 6 or an 8 cyl? If a 4 would work, what transmission, axle gearing and tire size would you recommend? I have already found the forums to very informative. Thanks. Rich
  9. Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for
  10. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injec
  11. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information
  12. Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the
  13. I have viewed you webpage on the AX-15 rebuild. It is great! I have one question though. Where can you find the selective snap rings. I have been trying to locate one in particular and I have been told that it is discontinued with no replacement. The part number is 83506088. It is for the 3rd and 4th synchronizer and is 1.90mm. Do you have any idea where to source this part at? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This one ring is holding me up on my assembly. Thanks! BG
  14. Since I am doing some work on my front leaf spring suspension, I shall probably be going from four leaf to six leaf like I have in the back. The sway bar links are shot as well, and I have heard that if I go to the stiff six leaf all around, I might not need the sway bar up front. I would like to keep the vehicle as stable as possible, as there are some nasty curves that are not banked very well in the area. Should I just keep it as stock as possible? Any input would be greatly appreciated...Pete H.
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