.jpg.f1e4acb198767a2aa928e74066de8dd7.jpg)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Jeep CJ-5'.
Found 17 results
-
I inherited a 66cj5 and in time I'd like to restore it, let's say "High hopes!". As far as I can tell there have been no modifications, stock replacement of parts. For now Id rather keep the engine/ ignition/ suspension stock. This may well be a play toy for the wife and I, mild but little wheeling. There are a few things that need attention. First is the wiring, it's been butchered. So is there a source for a direct replacement harness? Second, Tires and Wheels. Im looking at 235 75r 15 tires with some aftermarket rims. My only concern is the way the jeep is geared, is that tire TOO big of a diameter. Seats to be replaced. Oh and the color WILL BE CHANGED!!!! LOL
-
I sent what I believe to be my jeep's original brake arm to a machinist in Alabama who rebushes a lot of them for members of the Early CJ5 site. As it was being cleaned and then glass-beaded, he realized that unlike any others he had previously seen, this brake arm is made of bronze rather than steel. He started a thread about it with this photo: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/strange-brake-arm.129750/ Apparently, these solid bronze brake arms have been found on a number of '66 & '67 CJ5s (http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/brass-brake-pedal-arm.89095/#post-951636), so it's likely an OEM jeep part. My question is, why would Kaiser Jeep have made some brake arms out of bronze instead of (less expensive) steel in the first place? Do you have any insight on that? The vast majority of the wear on mine was to the (also likely original) steel cross shaft, rather than to the inside diameter of the bronze brake arm pivot. I've always thought that steel is harder than bronze, and would think that the bronze would therefore wear out faster than the steel. Am I wrong about that? Maury -
Hey Moses I am in the process of restoring a 1967 jeep cj5, I have replaced the drum brakes with disc front and back. I now would like to put new wheels and tires on I purchased a AR23 16x8 wheel and slid it onto the front axle all looked ok until I turned the wheel in ward and noticed I would not have enough space for any size tire. It looks like any new tire would rub on the suspension spring. Could you help me with what I am missing? Thanks! Kyle Cj5 -
Yesterday, my Rinky Dink Jeep tried to kill me. The on-going saga of my efforts to resuscitate this long forgotten and abused CJ5. After a week or two spent squirting Sea Foam & JB Blaster in the cylinders I actually got it running on Saturday. I had gone through the fuel system completely, from filler hoses to the carb. Everything is either new or re-manufactured, with the exception of the hard lines which were flushed with acetone. Primed the fuel system. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs gapped. Cranked and it fired. It was apparent that the timing was way retarded, as it barely ran at idle and died with any throttle given. Figured to set the timing only to discover the distributor seized solid. "Like a rock' as the Chevy guys would say. Turns out the distributor is also sitting proud of the housing by 8-10mm. It has been sitting like that at least for 10 years, without a hood, in the So Cal Inland Empire. Hmm. Alum on Alum out where the sun and the stars shine. Not good. Anyway, tried all the usual, tapping up, down and sideways. Soaked in JB Blaster. Even the Milwaukee hot air gun. It wouldn't budge. Sat night decided to try the 50/50 Acetone & ATF Miracle cure. Wrapped a shop rag around the shaft and let it sit over night. My restless ponderings while horizontal led me to believe that I needed more heat. Bright and early Sunday AM, with a cup of joe in one hand and a propane torch in the other, I uncover said jeep and dry off the area. I didn't so much as touch the flame to the housing when it ripped off a huge bang. Blew the valve covers off the heads. That was unexpected! Proud to say didn't spill any of the precious from the cup. Neighbor at the end of the street heard the bang and looked in time to see me standing there with a smoke cloud above me. Obviously set off the internal fumes. Never in my 48 years of playing with engines has this ever happened to me. I may be a bit slow but I eventually figured out that the distributor hold down bolt is through drilled into the timing case cavity and I flashed it off, twice. Did it a second time today to a lesser degree. That is when I deduced the through drilling. Sharp as a marble one might say. Anyway.. the damn distributor is still stuck. I rigged up a small slide hammer today and tried popping it. Still nothing. NOW the question; Is it possible to remove the oil pump and drive the distributor out via the bottom?? -
Moses What brake lines do you recommend using on a 1967 jeep cj5 now that I have replaced the drum brakes with disc on front and back? Thanks Kyle
-
I have a 1980 CJ5 with the factory 304 and T-176 4 speed. I need to make it California compliant. A couple of questions I need answers for. 1) Was there a difference between the Federal and California emissions equipment in 1980? 2) Anyone know of a source for the emissions sticker located on the radiator support. I can't locate the correct V-8 one. Thankfully it still has most of the original pollution control system in place. All it needs is the sticker and a revert back to a 2-1 exhaust with a Cat. Calif now requires Calif specific converters but I believe 1980 was before this regulation.
-
MOSES, I HAVE A 1967 CJ-5 V6 AND AM DOING AN OFF FRAME GO THROUGH AND PUTTING THE TRANNY AND TRANSFER CASE BACK ON THE ENGINE. THE TRANSFER CASE AFT ATTACHING POINT WON'T LINE UP WITH THE INSULATOR POCKET IN THE CROSS MEMBER. I CAN FORCE IT OVER ENOUGH TO LINE UP, BUT THEN THE LOWER MOUNT WON'T LINE UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE CROSS MEMBER. THE ORIGINAL INSULATOR WAS SMALLER AND KAISER MADE A 3/16 FLAT STOCK PIECE BENT INTO AN "S" SHAPE WITH TWO HOLES. I FOR THE CROSS MEMBER AND ONE FOR THE TRANSFER CASE. I CAN FABRICATE THE S PLATE, BUT THE TRANSFER CASE STILL RESTS ON THE INSULATOR BOLT. NOT GOOD. #2. MY TRANSMISSION SETS 1.5 INCHES TO THE LEFT OF CENTER. THE ENGINE BOLTS, IN NEW MOUNT BUSHINGS, ARE NOT TORQUED YET. AS I NOW LIVE IN FLORIDA AND DON'T RUN THE CORRIZO GORGE ANYMORE, DO I NEED THE INSULATOR FOR LOCAL DRIVING?? FLORIDA SWIFT -
So I am in the process of a total restoration on my 67 CJ5 v6 225 and have reached the transmission rebuild. I found a damaged first/reverse sliding gear and cluster gear. Question is should I pay the high cost of the t86 gears ( cluster $ 220.00 / first gear $ 125.00 ) or do I find t-90 parts and convert it? The first gear is almost impossible to find, I only found one after a week of searching. I would have to find used T-90 parts to make it cost effective but then there are no guarantees I will spend less to convert than to just get the t-86 parts. I do not plan on abusing the jeep off road when done. Also can I get away with grinding the teeth of the first sliding gear ( bottom photo ) a bit to dress them up rather than replacing ? The other side of gear not shown is good. Thoughts ? Damaged parts: -
There you go, Moses! It's going to be my first attempt at an engine rebuild... Starting the tear down. This Jeep spent most of its driving life on a tow bar being towed to NY for the hunting season. The engine has very low actual miles on it.
-
Well, progress has been slow due to work and family, but I spent a solid 6 hours on the CJ-7 project last night. I bought a new clutch linkage kit, as my lower and upper clutch rods were worn half way through, and the bellcrank was a mess. The new kit has an adjustable lower linkage rod with a ball joint instead of the old bent solid rod. And.....cue swearing. The 4.0 swap exhaust routing must be slightly different from stock (it's some kind of welded header instead of a cast iron manifold) because the ball and socket joint whacks the exhaust down tube solidly when the clutch pedal comes back to rest. After adjusting things for about an hour and trying the lower rod backwards, I conceded that it wasn't going to work and ordered a set of heim joint linkage rods to go with my nice new bellcrank and bushings. I have to say, the stock setup is a pretty questionable system. I guess maybe it gets points for simplicity, but for stoutness it is lacking. I know lots of folks have difficulty with the release lever jumping off the clutch fork, I wonder if there is a way to modify that to accept a ball and socket end for a positive mount instead of the old spring tension junk... -
Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses -
By 1972, AMC/Jeep Corporation was in full swing, producing the new generation Jeep 4x4s! This era represents the legendary CJ models that grew the brand to new heights and set benchmarks for engineering, design and sales. Join others who own and appreciate this unique group of vehicles, the 1972-86 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, Scrambler/CJ-8 and third generation AMC/Jeep Jeepster/Commando models!—Moses Ludel Moses Ludel's second Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual, covering 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® models. These years brought the Jeep CJ to the forefront, and consumers flocked to outdoor lifestyles and the popular sport of four-wheeling! An AMC/Jeep CJ does well both on- and off-highway, often with plenty of power, driving ease and comfort to spare!
-
The axle shaft tapers have "teeth" that cut into the smooth surface of a new rear wheel hub casting. There is a minimum beginning axle shaft nut torque on Jeep CJs of 250 ft-lbs. For a new hub, this is followed by tightening the axle shaft nut further until you achieve the factory-specified stick-out length of the axle shaft threads (beyond the outer edge of the wheel hub). Note: I've attached the factory procedure in a PDF for those interested in the Model 20 AMC Jeep CJ axle shaft hub installation: AMC Model 20 Axle Hub Installation.pdf See your factory service manual, it will describe this procedure for the Model 15. For the Jeep CJs, I also go into this installation in-depth within my 1972-86 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). Note the way you take this thread stick-out measurement... The amount of torque required on the hub nut can include the use of a 3/4" square drive impact socket and a long handle added to a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I have used the handle from a hydraulic floor jack (very carefully!) to gain enough leverage with some installations. Other installs require far less force than this. It's always about the correct thread stick-out measurement after tightening the nut. Those attempting to achieve the correct thread stick-out length with an impact gun, even a very strong one, may be surprised to find that the impact force is not sufficient to get the hub properly drawn onto the serrated axle shaft taper. All of this said, the AMC factory recommendation is a new hub casting if/when the hub shows any kind of damage. If you notice, brake work does not require hub removal, and the hub should, ideally, not be removed unless the axle shaft outer bearing requires replacement. Many do get away with hub reuse if there is no damage to the hub taper or axle shaft "teeth". If the hub has spun on the axle shaft, there is damage—the hub must be replaced. The hub and axle shaft positioning should be marked before the hub is removed. If you cannot or do not want to install a new hub, and the old hub appears okay, align the hub at its original position on the axle shaft. Tighten the axle shaft nut to the initial torque. I take this a step further and use the thread stick-out method to assure a safe installation. Once you have installed a hub to an AMC axle shaft in this manner, you will understand why Jeep owners who do not practice this method wind up with the hub spinning on the axle shaft's tapered end or, in the worst case scenario, the wheel hub and wheel/tire assembly can come loose! There are aftermarket "one-piece" replacement axle shafts available for the Jeep CJ 5x5.5" bolt circle hubs. These one-piece shafts have a more conventional outer flange for the wheel studs and mounting the brake drum and wheel/tire assembly. There are several suppliers for these Jeep CJ axle shafts. However, like you share, your Eagle wheel bolt circle is smaller than a CJ Jeep pattern, and the axle shaft lengths are likely different between the CJ and your Eagle. (Inner axle shaft splines may differ, too.) As a footnote, the key and keyway on the AMC axle shaft are not intended for withstanding the driving torque at the axle shaft. This key is mainly to facilitate the installation of the axle shaft nut in the manner I've just described. (It may provide a very marginal safety factor, but looking at it, you can see that the size of this key cannot withstand axle torque or loads.) With a new hub, you are actually "cutting" teeth/splines into the smooth hub casting taper as you tighten the axle nut securely. By securely, the only safe and trusted method is thread stick-out length. Any attempt to use a torque figure (other than the starting torque of 250 ft-lbs for the CJ Jeep Model 20 axle shaft nuts) is futile. Actual torque setting can vary from not much past the 250 ft-lbs minimum to the long handle leverage I mention. Related information: Anyone remember the vintage Volkswagen air-cooled era rear axle shaft nuts and the use of a long leverage bar for tightening? AMC is not alone here. And there are the tapered axle shafts on vintage Jeep, Ford, Studebaker, I-H and Chrysler cars and trucks that require a hub puller to remove the wheel hub and brake drum. If you need that kind of puller for an AMC axle, get pointers from my OTC Hub Tool video, click here. When Jeep owners do not follow this hub tightening procedure on the Model 20 axle in a CJ, and especially if they run oversized tires, the hub will spin lose. This can cause severe parts damage or even the loss of the hub/wheel assembly. Check your shop manual for the AMC AWD Eagle. I'm curious what the thread stick-out measurement is for the Model 15... Moses
-
While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear.
-
Just picked up this 55 CJ5 minus motor for next to nothing. Going to build a rotisserie and try to rescue the tub for my 67 restoration. Going to be a challenge but hate the thought of an aftermarket tub. Everything else is for sale. Just not sure what anything is worth yet. hood fenders two grills tailgate t-90 transmission dana 18 transfer case bell housing for F head two oil pans heater box air cleaner windshield frame ( rough ) axles frame rear draw bar
-
Disc brake conversions are popular, and I cover that topic in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 Editions, Bentley Publishers). Whether the CJ has a four-drum system or a disc front/drum rear system, the master cylinder must be considered during a disc brake conversion. There are two master cylinder concerns when converting to disc brakes: 1) the piston bore size and fluid volume per stroke of the pedal and 2) any "residual valves" that might have been used for the drum brakes. For disc brakes to work, the master cylinder must have enough fluid displacement to apply the calipers and pads. Disc calipers use more brake fluid per pedal stroke than properly adjusted drum brakes. If the Jeep is a vintage CJ 4x4 with a single master cylinder and drum brakes, especially the 9-inch diameter drum system, the stock master cylinder will be inadequate for modern disc brake calipers. Drum or disc brakes, I'd want to get rid of the single master cylinder for safety sake, regardless! In converting to disc brakes, the best choice here should be a modern four-wheel disc brake type dual master cylinder retrofit. A retrofit can even be done using the original, through-the-floor brake pedal, as I illustrate in the 1946-71 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). I fabricated a safe, sturdy mount for a later dual master cylinder—mounted beneath the floorboard like the stock master cylinder and actuated by the stock brake pedal. Sometimes, a disc/drum master cylinder will have adequate fluid displacement on the rear drum circuit to operate retrofit disc rear brakes. Again, this depends on the master cylinder's bore size and stroke per pedal application. The rear fluid reservoir is often smaller, so keep fluid at the recommended full level. On 1972-up Jeep CJs with four-wheel drum or disc front/drum rear brakes, you may be able to use the stock master cylinder with a disc brake conversion. Be aware, though, that some master cylinders will require removal of the residual valve(s) from the master cylinder ports. The "residual valve" is important on many drum brake systems. To keep the wheel cylinder cup lips expanded, which prevents fluid seepage from the wheel cylinder with the brakes released, a valve is built into the hydraulic system to hold "residual pressure" in the wheel cylinders when the brakes are released. Early single master cylinders and many four-wheel drum or disc/drum dual master cylinders have built-in "check" or "residual" valves. This residual pressure is below the tension of the brake shoe return springs. Residual pressure is simply to keep the wheel cylinders from drawing air or leaking fluid when the brakes are released. This pressure is typically around 12 PSI, well below brake shoe return spring tension. By design, disc brake calipers do not require residual pressure. The pads release pressure with the pedal release. There is adequate fluid available in the circuit to apply the brakes without lag or hesitation. Some disc brake hydraulic systems, do have very slight residual pressure to keep the pads close to the rotors at all times and improve brake response time during pedal application. This pressure would be around 2 PSI and not enough to cause premature pad wear, fade or overheated rotors. Note: If you're using a four-wheel drum or disc/drum CJ master cylinder, check the fluid line ports for a residual valve. Typically, this valve is simply a rubber plunger and balance spring at the back side of the tubing flare nut seat. With the brake lines removed from the master cylinder, you can see the rubber plunger through the passageway at the center of the tubing flare nut seat. This seat is removable for service and seat replacement. If you are curious how to safely remove the seat, I'd be happy to detail—ask here at the forum! Caution: When retrofitting from drum to disc brakes, you need to remove the drum brake residual valve(s). Earlier Jeep dual master cylinders for four-wheel drum brakes have residual valves at both the front and rear fluid line ports. OEM disc/drum brake systems can have a residual valve on the rear brake circuit. If the residual valve for drum brakes is left in place, the disc brake pads will drag on the rotors with the brake pedal released. This can cause excessive pad wear, brake fade and even wheel lockup. One disc brake conversion example is our fellow forum member "LastCJ7". He has a 1986 CJ-7 Jeep (disc front/drum rear factory brakes) and is converting to rear disc brakes. He's trying the CJ-7 dual master cylinder before considering a late Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon (four-wheel disc from the factory) master cylinder...LastCJ7 needs to make sure there is no residual valve holding pressure in the rear brake system with the brake pedal released. On later disc/drum master cylinders, there may not be a residual valve in the rear brake circuit. Many manufacturers have changed over to stiffer wheel cylinder cup expander springs with sturdier cup expanders. This measure keeps the rubber cups expanded with the brakes released and serves the same purpose as older residual valve systems. When converting to disc brakes, explore whether your original dual master cylinder uses a residual valve or valves. Vintage, single master cylinders have a check valve within the master cylinder to hold residual pressure in the system—one more reason why a single master cylinder is not a candidate for a disc brake conversion! Make sure the master cylinder's fluid displacement (per pedal stroke) will meet disc brake caliper requirements. If in doubt, retrofit a combination valve and master cylinder from a similar chassis—like retrofitting a Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon master cylinder and combination valve to a CJ-7 chassis. Summing up, make sure the brake hydraulic system is compatible with the disc brake calipers and rotors. Both the CJ-7 and TJ Rubicon are on a 94" wheelbase, each has beam axles and an inline six-cylinder engine, their curb weight is a close match, so they should have similar braking needs and characteristics...Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon brake components would be a good template for the CJ-7 wheelbase and four-wheel disc brakes. Moses
-
Welcome to the Vintage Jeep® 4x4 Forum!
Moses Ludel posted a topic in Vintage Jeep® Vehicles 1941-71
In the postwar era, Willys pioneered the development and production of 4WD light trucks and the World's first "sport utility vehicles". If you like the WWII and postwar Willys and Kaiser era Jeep models, this forum provides a community of enthusiasts and restorers. Whether your interest is history, restoration, rebuilding, how-to, troubleshooting or sharing vintage Jeep 4WD experiences, you'll find support and build friendships here!—Moses Ludel At left is a Mopar flyer for Camp Jeep workshops by Moses Ludel. The red '55 CJ-5 was the project built and depicted within the book at right!
