Moses Ludel

SoCal Scout...YOU HAVE A PRIZED SCOUT AT THAT ORIGINAL CONDITION AND MILEAGE! What a find. This 4x4 is a prime candidate for a thorough maintenance service and inspection followed by keeping it as original as possible. Unless you have plans for a modernized 4x4 or restomod Scout, your 80 would be just fine in stock condition. A copy or reprint of the I-H shop manual for your model, plus access to parts schematics, would be valuable guides for preserving the Scout and its originality. Areas that may need attention given the storage time: grease and oil seals, belts, hoses and other rubber parts. I would pay close attention to the brake hydraulic cylinders, brake hoses, powertrain and axle seals, suspension/spring bushings and body rubber grommets. I'm always excited about Scouts and I-H trucks. The Scout 80 and 800 models were popular during my high school years at Gardnerville/Minden, Nevada. Meneley Motors sold I-H trucks, farm implements and, of course, the Scout. Your 80 was popular with ranchers, the ideal companion for a fleet of medium duty I-H work trucks and I-H Farmall equipment. Scout half-cab 4x4s were often seen churning through deep snow or across muddy ranch fields with bales of hay stacked high in the bed for hungry and stranded cattle. This was a common scenario at Carson Valley. At the early end of my automotive career, as a truck fleet mechanic I maintained several postwar to early sixties I-H trucks and Metro Vans. A coworker had a 1961 Scout 80 that he drove regularly to the Anza-Borrego Desert, typically up Grapevine or Coyote Canyons. I had a Jeep CJ-3A at the time, stock/restored, that also saw use on these trails. 100" wheelbase Scout 80s were notably on the Rubicon Trail in the sixties and held their own. The stretched Kaiser Jeep CJ-6 was 101". These vehicles had much in common. Before the Dauntless V-6 CJ, the Scout had a performance edge. For real novelty, there were optional turbocharged 152 slant fours in 1965-67 80s and 800s. I-H was years ahead with this truck engine, though marketing and maintenance issues led to the 152 and 196 being replaced with a naturally aspirated 232/258 inline six (AMC outsourced just like the period Jeep J-truck offering) and I-H's own 266/304/345 OHV V-8s. Rust was a scourge for these vintage vehicles. I have seen Scouts from all model years with various degrees of rust. Midwest road salt or a corrosive work environment has ruined many otherwise fully intact Scouts. There are notable areas that form rust on the different generation Scout models. Floorboard rust is not unusual. Where was your Scout stored and used for all those years? From your description of non-highway use, even if used for snow plow service, the 80 may have been spared salt road and other corrosive damage. If so, you'll be a very happy camper! Moses

SoCal Scout...I'd like your fellow Scout 80 owners to share, too! I remember these early I-H Scouts well. You describe the 3-speed, its much the same as the Jeep T90, no synchromesh on 1st gear or reverse, so stop the vehicle before shifting to low gear. Otherwise, you'll be replacing the counter gear and first gear. Much like the Jeep CJ, the 80's closed knuckle Spicer front, drum brakes and a Ross cam-and-lever steering gear do not make a recipe for quick stops or great handling. The upgrades to a Scout 80 follow much same approach as a vintage Willys/Kaiser era Jeep CJ. The 80s were largely farm and ranch vehicles if 4WD. It would be the Scout 800, 800A/B and Scout II that gradually transformed the Scout into a modern SUV with power and a multipurpose chassis. The 80 is a rugged workhorse, the 152 and later 196 fours proving remarkable durable with high torque for their displacement. The 152 was half of an I-H 304 OHV V-8; the 196 was half of the 392 OHV V-8. Tough for their size, I liked the 80 for its slant four and strong frame. Axles, steering and brakes did need to improve for highway use. In the fifties and sixties, Koenig and Ramsey PTO winches were still popular in commercial settings, oil fields and mining work. Your Spicer Model 18 transfer case, similar to the CJ Jeep, has a power take-off that can power these vintage winches and other field implements...The Meyers plow was popular. Do you have the pieces? The T-knob was likely a hand throttle. Unlike cruise control, it sets a fixed carburetor throttle valve position. If you set the hand throttle high, the engine won't slow down until you push the T-knob! Today, NHTSA, EPA and DOT would never allow a hand throttle from a highway safety or tailpipe emissions standpoint. Check the exhaust piping and muffler with an infrared, non-contact thermometer when the engine is fully warmed or after driving. Make sure the muffler is not overheating from being clogged. When the 152 had a hand choke, these engines built up a lot of soot in the exhaust system. Otherwise, maybe the exhaust system has been routed too close to the floorboard. Be sure the exhaust tailpipe exits at the rear of the Scout. So what's the plan here? Stock restoration, upgrades or modifications? Each option can be fun and interesting. The only weak link in the earliest 80 models is the rear axle. Jeep CJs used a stout Spicer 44 while the early Scout 80 had a smaller Spicer rear axle similar to the 27 front axle. Rear axle shafts and the differential did not hold up well until introduction of the Spicer 44. If you're fortunate enough to have the Spicer 44 rear axle, that's a real plus. Take a peek. If you decide to modernize the Scout 80, there are very specific ways to upgrade from the older technology. This 80 chassis and gear train (brakes, steering, transmission/transfer case and axles) have a striking similarity to the period's Willys/Jeep vehicles. Like a Jeep, restoring an 80 to stock original condition could be exciting and productive; however, the speed ceiling would be 60 or so mph even with taller axle gearing or oversized tires. A build-up or restoration is really up to your taste, the planned use and budget. Scout 80 axle gearing was usually 4.27 ratio with 3.73 and 4.88 options available. The Meyers plow may have dictated a 4.88 option. Check the axle tags for ratios. If 4.88, that would explain the cruising speed. 50 mph would also be prudent for the vintage 9" drum brakes and Ross steering! If thoroughly restored, a workhorse 80 model would be reasonably safe at 55 mph. (It likely could go faster but would be a handful.) At a minimum, an 11" drum brake conversion would be smart. Let us know your plans...Fellow owners and 4x4 enthusiasts will enjoy hearing more about your "new" Scout 80! Other 80 owners, please share your experience. Moses

JackSojourn, you're welcome...You have an excellent, period specific chip chart. Ceylon Green Metallic [Iridescent] looks like your desired color. Again, colors are more consistent with shops that have major brand (PPG, Dupont, etc.) mixing systems. You should be able to get a nice sample mix on a board to review before committing. Please post photos of your finished paint job, it should be a beaut! Moses

JackSojourn...I would consider Grenoble Green (1977), Woodbine (1978) or Ceylon Green Iridescent (1974). 1980 Willow Green is too light. (Note: The 1980 chart is not old enough for Ceylon Green or Grenoble.) The vehicle depicted in your post looks like Ceylon Green Iridescent. This color shows up regularly in high-end Scout II restorations and frame-off builds. By 1971, metallic and "iridescent" colors were popular on I-H vehicles. (See Lime Green Iridescent in the 1971 chart.) Ceylon Green Iridescent (1974 chart) is a standout color for its depth. Most iridescent paints have a lustrous look. Keep in mind that when colors get mixed, there is always risk of shade variation. Machine formulations have reduced this risk dramatically in modern paint mixing. Be aware that two-stage and urethane clear coat systems can look different than an earlier acrylic enamel or single stage paint finish. If you have an eye for color, visit a body shop that has a PPG or similar color mixing system. Ask to see the desired or test color applied on a large enough surface to determine the tone and degree of "metallic" look. In any case, Ceylon Green Iridescent is an appealing, rich color, distinctly green and bright in sunlight. A good call would be Ceylon Green Iridescent. Body and paint guys may want to comment here. Below are some paint "chip" charts for various years. The 1982 chart includes colors from earlier years. Moses

Have a good weekend, too! I will update on the voltmeter tests of coolant...Apparently, these tests assign a "normal" voltage, which has become a standard for when to change the antifreeze. I would imagine that a specific gravity (hydrometer) or protection strip test is still advisable. I'll look into this further and add details.

1985CJ7...Like you, I am always willing to learn and try things. Your experience is valued, and it would be fun to experiment with voltmeter tests on your pure antifreeze cooling systems compared to similar vehicles with mixtures of antifreeze and water...Do keep us posted, I'm very interested in your findings...Thanks, as always, for your contribution to the forums! Moses

1985CJ7...So that was a "blind hole", and the punch bottomed? As for pure antifreeze, there is a problem. Pure (not 50/50 premixed) antifreeze cannot dissipate or transfer heat properly without water content. In extreme cold, pure ethylene glycol antifreeze will actually freeze and crack a block quicker, as the anti-freeze has no ability to yield. The freezing temperature of pure ethylene glycol antifreeze is around 8.8 degrees F despite a standard hydrometer reading. Also, because of the expansion rate, the pure antifreeze will make the engine run hotter due to 35% less ability to transfer and dissipate heat. The boiling point of the typical pure ethylene glycol antifreeze is 387 degrees F. For these reasons, I never run more than a 60% antifreeze/water concentration in an extreme cold weather climate. (Maximum concentration is 70% antifreeze/30% water, which will drop protection to -84 degrees F.) 60% is good for around -60 to -64 degrees F with a boiling point of approximately 232 degrees F under normal radiator cap pressure. A 50/50 mix will provide boiling protection to 265 degrees F with a functioning 15 PSI or higher radiator cap. The higher the concentration of antifreeze, the less boil over protection (lower boiling point). A 50/50 mix or premix is typically good for -34 degrees F with a cap in good condition. I always use pure distilled water (non-mineralized) in my mixture to reduce scale and mineral buildup in the engine. On my Honda motorcycle engine with aluminum head and cylinder, I use non-silicate anti-freeze from Honda. Silicate, intended to help keep scale from forming, works okay with iron but not so well with aluminum castings. For the Ram/Cummins diesel and the 4.0L Jeep six, I use Mopar 100,000 mile/5-year antifreeze recommended or an exact equivalent. As for electrolysis, here's a good rundown on the process and causes: https://www.northernradiator.com/knowledge/Electrolysis. One cause of electrolysis is poor engine and chassis grounds that enable 12V-plus current to pulse through the radiator coolant. You can actually test for voltage through the coolant with a voltmeter's probes. Positive probe centered in the neck of the radiator, negative to battery ground if reachable. A detectable current will show electrolysis caused by metallic buildup in the coolant over time. To test current flow through the radiator under electrical loads, this test can be performed while cranking the engine or applying heavy current loads to the electrical system. If there is higher conductivity, there's electrolysis. Even in a properly grounded system, there will be a very low voltage reading through the coolant. The amount of voltage can indicate whether it's time to change the coolant. Many shops use this test to determine the condition of antifreeze. Moses

1985CJ7...No oil passages at this block section. Could be "block mud" that came from that hole. Or I may be misidentifying the threaded hole with the bolt. It aligns with the two new block plugs but could be a blind hole for a mount used in another AMC or Jeep application of this engine. There is a reinforced rib section there, which hints that the bolt hole is for a bracket of some kind. If you remove that bolt, probe the hole to see if it goes through to the cooling jacket. If a mounting bolt hole, the probe will bottom. That may not have been fluid in that threaded hole but rather old, oily debris. The factory Mopar parts manual shows the two plugs you replaced. The drain cock mentioned may just replace one of those NPT plugs as an option...Those two brass fitting ports should be through holes into the cooling jackets. When you flush the lower block ports, coolant should flow from each of these two ports. Let us know... Moses 4.2L Jeep Block.pdf

That kind of neglect will do it! Most ignore the factory recommended band adjustment intervals. After a rebuild, I always readjust the bands after several thousand miles. This accounts for the "shaping" of the bands and lining plus any slack that might occur. Beyond that, the long band service intervals are okay. As you can see, the front band, and to an extent even the rear band, have very little room for friction material wear. The front band in particular has surprisingly thin lining due to the need for flexibility at that band. Even the clutch pack frictions cannot slough off much material. An automatic transmission is nothing like a manual transmission's thick clutch disc and friction material. The "wet clutches" in the automatic transmission rely on adequate hydraulic pressure and the right "timing" of the band applies. The band adjustment affects that apply timing. When I drive our Ram/Cummins 5.9L turbodiesel powered truck, I am very aware of the upshifts, especially under load or when trailer pulling. I do not apply heavy throttle at the shifts between gears since this is the highest wear point for the frictions and bands. If road conditions allow, I often back off the throttle slightly to allow the shift to occur with less load applied during the shift and minimal risk of slippage. The safeguards that will help in your transmission are the Sonnax accumulator piston upgrade and the valve body lubrication upgrades. I will be interested in your impressions after restoring and upgrading this transmission. You were aware of driving quirks and symptoms, which should result in some insightful comments. Moses

1985CJ7...On the 258/4.2L block, these are coolant plugs. The plug port further to the right is also low in the block below the expansion plug; this port is for a drain plug. Though not clear, it looks like you placed a bolt in that drain plug port. If you remove the bolt, there should be a passageway into the cooling system/cylinder jacket just like the two brass plug ports. A piece of mechanics wire can probe this and confirm that the passage goes into the cooling jacket. You can consider whether to install a drain cock in place of the bolt. The straight threads (rather than NPT threads) at that port accept a drain cock plug. Light rust at these plug ports is not unusual. A lot of scale and rust would be a cause for concern. The camshaft is at the right/passenger side (LHD vehicle) of the block in line with the camshaft, oil pump/distributor drive and lifters. That would be the oil gallery that feeds the camshaft bearings, lifters, pushrods (valvetrain) and crankshaft journals. You are on the opposite side, which is the cooling port accesses in the block. These plugs are at a lower point in the cooling jackets than the expansion plugs to enable more thorough draining and flushing of the block. Moses

IDAHOAN...I just checked out this kit and was pleased to discover the degree of sophistication and engineering that went into this product. The complete kit would make a difference if within your budget. The construction looks good. As for the "why", the longer springs are a distinct improvement for ride quality and handling. Shorter springs create the up-and-down "buckboard" effect, especially with suspension lift springs. YJ springs are often fitted to CJs along with a front axle shackle reverse kit installation at the same time. I have always been an advocate of front spring shackle reversals on the Jeep CJ and YJ 4x4s. In considering the Samurai, I would also expect some gain in roll resistance with the wider YJ springs. The Samurai's short wheelbase and a high C.G. are a known recipe for rolling over. The best way to offset this is with a wider track width, and many go to wide axles; Toyota 4x4 beam pickup axles are one popular route. Dana axles are an option and available in various widths. Get the track width wide enough to stabilize C.G., get used to the short wheelbase "sprint car" handling, and the Samurai has great potential with the right power under the hood. Moses

Mike T...There is real merit to doing the front disc brake conversion, especially with an open knuckle front axle. As for the rear, unless the vehicle is fording streams or continuously on dusty dirt roads, the gains in brake performance are negligible. Most trucks until the late nineties and early 2000s were still disc front with drum rear brakes. Brake bias is toward the front, so drum rear brakes are plenty adequate. However, a 1973 Scout II rear drum/shoe size can be 11" x 1.75", which is not great. 11" x 2" or wider shoes would be desirable. Factory parts (backing plates, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, etc.) from a later Scout II (1975-up) could upgrade the rear drum brakes as long as the axle shaft flange stick-out is the same. So back to your brother's desire: four-wheel disc brakes. I found similar parts at Scout Parts (https://www.scoutparts.com) and D and C Extreme. Here is the link to a front brake conversion: https://scoutparts.com/Disc_Brake_Conversion_Kit_Front_4x4_4x2_Scout_II_Dana_30_ONLY__Scout_II_Scout_II_Diesel/p17367. Read the footnotes! This is for a Dana 30 front axle and requires specific wheel rims to clear the brake calipers. For the rear disc conversion, E-brakes and a proportioning valve enter the discussion. Here is D and C Extreme's kit that takes that into consideration: https://dandcextreme.com/product/scout-ii-rear-disc-brake-kit/. Scoutparts.com offers a similar kit with options: https://scoutparts.com/Rear_Disc_Brake_Conversion_Kit_Rear_Scout_II__Scout_II_Scout_II_Diesel/p17360. Similarly, D and C Extreme offers a front disc conversion kit. Note that the proportioning valves both offer are actually manual metering valves. With experimentation and adjustment, they do work, although this is not the same as an OEM combination valve that proportions and applies rear brakes slightly ahead of the front in timing. Both act as proportioning, but OEM brake system valves have more functions than a manual, adjustable proportioning valve. Think of a manual, adjustable proportioning valve as reducing or increasing the apply pressure to the rear brakes. Once adjusted as desired (or the best compromise), that pressure is fixed. Another way to do this upgrade, especially with disc front/drum rear, would be OEM or stock Scout II parts from a later model. You would find a donor vehicle or a parts catalog with OEM replacement parts and update every piece in the braking system from the master cylinder and combination/proportioning valve to the caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, pads, etc. This requires careful review of all parts to make sure they match up with the front axle, rear axle shafts and so forth. Use of wider rear drum brakes may require finding the right backing plates, wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and drums, making sure these parts will work with the 1973 axle shafts and their flange stick-out length. The disc conversion kits seem to be a one-stop shopping venture. However, any four-wheel disc brake conversion is a "project". There will be a need for detail and attention paid to brake hose lengths and use of the correct master cylinder. As a point here, a disc/drum brake master cylinder may have a residual check valve on the rear brake port to maintain slight pressure to the rear brakes even when the pedal retracts. The disc front brake circuit does not have a residual valve, as residual pressure would cause disc brake pad drag on the rotors. Rear or front drum brakes have heavy shoe retraction springs that overcome the residual pressure and allow shoes to retract completely while still maintaining slight pressure in the brake lines. The residual pressure is essential for keeping drum brake wheel cylinder cups expanded, preventing fluid seepage and keeping air out of the cylinders. There is also no lag (other than shoe-to-drum clearance) when the brake pedal is applied. The current master cylinder in the 1973 Scout II is designed for four-wheel drum brakes and uses residual check valves. Note the #10 "Reservoir Valve Spring" at the drum brake master cylinder. Outboard of the spring is a rubber valve (residual pressure valve) that gets pressed against the port seat to hold a small amount of pressure in the lines of a drum brake system. The disc brake master cylinder (unfortunately not 1971-up as indicated) would not have a residual valve on the disc front caliper circuit. This disc/drum system would, however, need a residual valve on the rear drum brake system with wheel cylinders: On disc brake conversions, if the master cylinder is from a drum brake application (like the 1973 Scout II), the residual check valve(s) would need to be removed from the port to the disc brakes. If the conversion is to disc front brakes only, the check valve would remain in place at the rear drum brake port. The port seats are removable, often done during a master cylinder rebuild. A thorough rebuild kit often contains new port seats and instructions on how to remove the old brass port seats. When choosing a master cylinder for a disc brake conversion, be certain that the fluid reservoirs, bore and piston diameter(s) are sufficient for disc brakes. A disc brake master cylinder is likely to have a large reservoir(s) and larger piston and bore displacement. Moses

zidodcigalah...There is some heat damage and friction slippage evident on the band. What you look for on this band is the shape of the ribs. Ribs should be prominent and not flattened like what you see. The material is worn on this band. At this stage, the ribs cannot retain fluid or provide adequate friction, which shows up as slipping or shudder during shifts. Here is a new band from Oregon Performance Transmissions. Note that there are distinct, raised ribs. Sometimes a rebuilt band has wider ribs, but the ribs still have distinct height and channels. Your band's ribs look flattened from wear. I would replace this band (new) or have it rebuilt. Often these rear bands are an exchange/rebuilt part: One cause of rear band wear is poor maintenance. Modern shops or garages, and certainly owners, have no concept of routine band adjustment or how to perform the adjustment. Contemporary transmissions do not have band adjustments; the Chrysler RE/RH units were among the last with adjustable bands. Bands get neglected until there is slippage or shudder during shifts. Your 32RH transmission rebuild will last for many, many years because you are doing a thorough job and will perform the necessary maintenance. Moses

zidodcigalah...Makes sense about the aluminum and pan bolt threads if the thread material fell into the pan during removal. The transmission case and threads are aluminum. Pleased that you are going with a rebuild kit and Raybestos or Alto performance frictions for durability. Smart. Also smart that you're rebuilding this transmission based on specifications, metal in the pan, missing valve body balls and signs of wear. This is preventive work and assurance that you saved as many hard parts as possible. You're keeping the Jeep, it's sensible to upgrade the frictions in your build. The shiny flex plate bolts could be a Park noise. Without the Sonnax pressure regulator valve or full lubrication when in Park, there can be less fluid in the converter. The crankshaft can move forward slightly when converter and pump pressure build, which could move the flex plate and bolts away from the dust cover. In Park the crankshaft could ride slightly rearward, enough to allow the scraping and possible noise. When you shift into gear, the converter fills, the crankshaft moves slightly forward, allowing bolt clearance at the dust cover. Pure speculation but worth checking. A quick answer here would be to check the crankshaft end play with a dial indicator either at the front of the crankshaft or rear/flex plate. With a pry bar and block(s) of wood to protect parts, pry the crankshaft forward and take a measurement. Now move the crankshaft rearward and note the amount of movement. You're actually checking the crankshaft and thrust (main) bearing clearance. If within specification and normal, and if you have the factory shim/spacer between the engine block and bellhousing, the issue is simply a misaligned tin dust shield. You have a readily rebuildable transmission. The Sonnax parts and converter rebuild are insurance and practical. You'll notice the immediate response when shifting from Park to gears with the Sonnax parts. I like your options in the rebuild kits, each has the front pump bushing. The longer bushing is a tailhousing bushing for RWD (2WD) cars with a 904/999 tailhousing. This bushing would not be used in your unit. These kits do not contain the retainer bushing and shaft bushings, which are less prone to wear. Moses

Nathanteig...You should be able to simply click on the PDF callout symbol. The PDF will download to "Downloads" on a PC. (Also look to the lower left of your screen on the lower applications tray.) The prompt should also be a typical download to a tablet or phone...On my PC in Windows 10, when I left click on the callout symbol/button, the PDF downloads and appears at the lower tray, left hand side of my screen. Clicking on the .exe there will open the PDF file on my computer...Let me know if this works. jeep guy... One is the Fuel Pump Relay. The other is the "B + Latch" relay. A third would be the A/C Compressor Clutch Relay if the vehicle has A/C. Moses

Seem my comment below, Zidodcigalah...Moses

Mike M...I had mentioned the FWD engine design issues (intake position, etc.) in my last reply...According to the third link below, the late Buick engines do use a 60-degree (2.8L to 3.4L Chevrolet design) bellhousing pattern. This would necessitate a different 700R-4 or a 200R-4. A 2.8L/3.1L GM S-truck might be a source for a transmission. Here are details on each engine, the 60-degree V-6 and the 231/3.8L V-6—plus the late series 3800: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_60°_V6_engine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V6_engine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_GM_bellhousing_patterns If the 700R-4 is a deal breaker and "must keep", you'd be back to the older RWD 3.8L cars with SFI. Rear wheel drive applications with the Buick (BOP) bellhousing pattern would work. The 1986 Buick Century sounds like a possibility with your adapter ring to mate the Chevrolet 700R-4 to a Buick 3.8L V-6 block (BOP pattern). Again, verify stack height if you use the adapter ring and 700R-4 transmission. Moses

Have you compressed the clutches to release spring pressure yet? Years ago I purchased a universal K-D automatic transmission spring compressor that has worked on all of the assemblies I've built since (Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc.). I checked to see whether you can still get the tool. You can: https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tool-Transmission-Compressor-Automatic/dp/B000WZWGK0 There are now some interesting, less expensive alternatives. This one caught my attention: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011SBI1DW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0 Some improvise with a large C-clamp or a hydraulic press, but even for one job, these niche compressor tools can save time and help prevent parts damage.

zidodcigalah...The photo I provided was only the valve body balls as per my 1994 Mopar FSM for the YJ/XJ models. (I have the print version of the factory manual.) Below is photo revealing the two balls you describe in the "transfer plate". One check ball is the rear clutch check ball, the other is the rear servo check ball. Each, as you note, would be necessary. Interesting that they were missing, which could affect clutch and servo functions . Sonnax 0.250" balls look good, they are "imidized" plastic, similar to OEM. You should be fine with this set as long as you have the 11/32" ball. Did you trial fit a 1/4" ball in the transfer plate locations? Is that correct ball size for the rear clutch check ball and rear servo check ball? Glad you caught the two missing check balls. Any previously rebuilt transmission needs the layout of parts and a thorough accounting for each piece. I looked in the Mopar Parts Catalog for the 1995 YJ Wrangler, and the 32RH valve body related replacement parts show only the manual lever check ball. These balls do last a very long time in aluminum castings. Good thing Sonnax exists! Plastic is used for a reason. Hard chrome balls are available, but they would be harder on aluminum castings. Will it take a long time to receive your Sonnax parts? Did you order any of the valve body or accumulator upgrade parts? Moses

You'd need to break down the difference between the FWD and RWD versions of the 3.8L. The SFI idea is sensible, a donor vehicle could even include the wiring harness if you like to sort through schematics and mate harnesses. Many do this. I recommend rosin core solder splices with double heat shrink tubing. Butt crimp connectors are wholly unacceptable for electronic circuit wiring. For openers, the FWD 3.8L intake faces the wrong way and cannot be "turned around". An alleged workaround is a '96-2002 Camaro/Firebird 3.8L ("3800) intake. You'd need to verify the fit. There are block mount concerns. I would research the block castings to see if that's an issue. You would be fabricating engine mounts, but they still need to be at reasonable points on the block casting. Verify the crankshaft configuration at the front/drive accessories end and the rear flange for the flexplate. How will drive accessories fit? Water pump? Is the bellhousing pattern the same? Would the Camaro/Firebird 3800 version be a more sensible engine for a swap? Confirm this. A good place to research is the long block offerings from engine rebuilders. See whether a RWD 3.8L and a FWD 3.8L core is the same as a long block part number. If the basic engine can be used in a RWD vehicle, the notion is sensible. Otherwise, I'd look into the Camaro/Firebird V-6 3.8L. Footnote: I did a further search, and the GM 3.8L "3800" engine may be popular and relatively common. There are numerous RWD later 3.8L V-6 applications that would have EFI or SFI. Verify the bellhousing patterns and their fit to a 700R-4. For a 4x4 application, the 700R-4's output shaft and tailhousing could be borrowed from your truck application of the 700R-4...You may have started a new swap engine trend. According to one source, interchange is as follows on these RWD applications, and the common part number is supposed to be GM 89017861. These donor cars should be abundant: 89017861 - 3.8L (L36-K) 1995-1996 Olds Ninety-Eight, 1995-1999 Buick Park Ave, 1995-2002 Chevy Camaro & Pontiac Firebird, 1995-1997 Buick Riviera, 1995-1999 Pontiac Bonneville, Olds Eighty-Eight, 1996-1999 Buick Lesabre, 1996-2004 Buick Regal & Century, 1997-2004 Pontiac Grand Prix, 1998-1999 Olds Cutlass Supreme, 1998-2005 Chevy Monte Carlo & Impala Drill down on this prospect and see whether there is potential here. The challenge would be the electronic interface and powertrain electrical wiring. You need the donor car's engine and transmission wiring harness(s) and a detailed schematic for this one. Let us know your findings and plans! Moses

Hi, stump jumper...Always good to know that the early generation Scout 80s and 800s are still in service. Which engine do you have? Scout Parts at scoutparts.com shows a rebuilt alternator for 1961-71 models with no mention of any required brackets. This may be a simpler 1-wire (GM style) hookup but needs clarification and confirmation. Use the search box at the site with the keyword "alternator": https://scoutparts.com/ I have been familiar with these folks for many decades now, they would also be a knowledgeable resource: https://www.superscoutspecialists.com/ Due to their hook-up simplicity, the GM single wire alternators are popular for street rods and generator-to-alternator conversions. These units have a rectifier bridge and no external regulator. They generally use an exciter wire and higher amp gauge charge line. What is most important with any of these conversions is the wiring. You are stepping up in amperage, especially the amp output at an idle, which is why an alternator is so much better than a traditional D.C. generator. Proper wire gauge on the charge lead to the junction or battery is crucial. Depending upon load and length, you need to step up in gauge as necessary. Make sure high amp current cannot flow through any lower amperage (lighter gauge) wire. If you change to a "universal" single wire alternator, make sure you have a wiring diagram with recommended wire sizing. I have gone as far as 1/0 gauge charge and ground wiring when running a 140 amp alternator that powers up an onboard frequency welder. The two links/resources can likely answer questions about brackets. Otherwise, you will need to fabricate an alternator mounting bracket and possibly a belt adjuster arm. Alignment of the pulleys and the correct belt size is essential. None of this is rocket science. It can be worked through. Let us know how you resolve the alternator installation... Moses

joshkalfelt...As I described in my first reply, the gearing is more important than brake size. Gearing determines engine compression braking ability. I still run the OEM brake rotor size and stock calipers (stock drums at the rear of the XJ) on both our XJ Cherokee and the Ram 3500. The XJ Cherokee has 33" diameter oversized tires. I changed from the OEM 3.55:1 axle ratios to 4.10 ratio front and rear. This restored the engine compression braking. On the Ram, as I described, the 37" tires require 4.56 gears to restore the compression braking. I am changing to 4.10 gears front and rear on the Ram while dropping back to 35" diameter tires. In each example, the compression braking is restored to the OEM level. The Ram originally had 31.9" diameter tires with 3.73 axle gears. This is nearly identical to 35" tires and 4.10 gears. The 4.10 change in the XJ Cherokee also restored the engine speed and compression braking, equivalent to the original tire size and 3.55 gears. There is a simple way to determine what gear ratio will restore the compression braking. I use engine rpm at a fixed road speed as a guide. There are many calculators online now. I've used http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html for years, there are others. Take your pick. When using any of these calculators, be sure to use the overdrive gear ratio for your vehicle at highway speeds. I check and compare engine rpm at 60, 65, 70 and 75 mph, looking for the gear ratio that places engine rpm closest to that with the original tire size and factory gear ratio. Make sense? As far as going to "bigger brakes", that might be an alternative but can be costly. In some cases, there is no room for a bigger rotor or brake drums. I don't fiddle with the factory brake size on modern vehicles with four-wheel disc brakes or disc front/drum rear brakes. Disc brake conversions are often sensible for older 4x4 vehicles. For better performance and braking, I concentrate on correcting the axle gear ratios to match the new tire size. Moses

Mike M...It's a 3-5% drop in horsepower per 1000 feet of elevation. We live at 4,400 feet elevation, so I know your concern. The good news is that lower octane fuel works just fine for us. I found what seems a reliable table for compression correction by altitude. This is actually addressing cylinder pressure (PSI) rather than actual compression ratio. (There is static and dynamic compression to consider as well.) At 5,000 feet elevation, according to the table, you use a 0.862 factor to determine equivalent cylinder pressure. If this approximates a compression ratio change, 10:1 x .862 equals 8.62:1. So, if you drive solely in your altitude zone, you could use 10:1 pistons on the 231 V-6. I have traditionally used United Engine's Keith Black or Silv-O-Lite hypereutectic pistons. Silv-O-Lite replacement pistons work just fine, Keith Black for high performance use. At 10:1, you may need to fiddle with octane, though many GM TBI systems use a knock sensor that compensates sufficiently. (The 1991 Chevy 350 engine may or may not use an ESC equivalent with knock sensor, you need to check whether it has the knock sensor.) Here's the table, courtesy of www.TW200forum.com: Altitude (ft) Correction Factor Altitude (ft) Correction Factor 500 .987 3500 .907 1000 .971 4000 .888 1500 .960 4500 .880 2000 .943 5000 .862 2500 .933 5500 .853 3000 .915 6000 .836 Sounds like you're in a holding pattern with a 225 odd-fire V-6 that should last quite a while—especially with hard steel replacement exhaust valve seats. Will you just keep the 3-speed manual transmission to ease the process? The Jeepster was optioned with the THM400 behind the 225 V6. Or you could adapt a 700R-4 (your BOP adapter or the OEM Jeep approach) to the Spicer 20 transfer case. Length of the transmission would determine whether driveline resizing is necessary. The torque converter and flexplate would need to match up and fit. Your Jeepster parts source may have the goods for this automatic conversion. THM400 to Spicer 20 was common with late Kaiser and earlier AMC/Jeep era vehicles. Moses

RareCJ8...The illustration system would be great for a drag car with limited travel and no axle articulation. The second design (photo) looks better suited for use with leaf springs as shown. It appears to target spring wrap and would clearly prevent leaf flexing/twisting. The arc of the bar must follow the normal spring/axle arc over the range of travel. The axle must remain square with the frame over the suspension's range of travel. The bar's attachment point at the front must create matching bar and spring arcs. If the bar is not positioned properly, spring movement will be inhibited. As you share, the Heim at the rear does allow for axle articulation. The point of attachment (U-bolt plates at each rear leaf spring) is where the axle wants to rotate; the Heim is above the centerline of the axle housing, which creates a leverage effect...Do you have access to the owner of this vehicle? You could ask some pointed questions about axle articulation and spring movement. Telescoping bars sound useful for articulation; however, that telescoping movement would defeat the idea of stabilizing the springs. The telescoping bar would not offer an opposing force. Moses

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