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Showing results for tags 'yj wrangler'.
Found 18 results
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I'm trying to nail this down but unfortunately without any success. Jeep has around 27-9 psi pressure at rail at idle and vacuum connected. With disconnected vacuum it is around 36psi. I think this is main issue why my fuel trim numbers are 5-8%. Things done so far: Fuel filter has some 3k miles on it. Bypassed fuel filter and pressure is still the same. Cleaned and tested fuel injectors. All tested good. Checked vacuum lines Fuel tank had to be dropped for skid replacement, so I replaced fuel pump at the same time /w new strainer Replaced fuel pressure regulator with both o-rings Biggest difference happened when I replaced fuel pressure regulator. Vehicle would start around 30psi and will slowly drop down after warm up. I can't see any fuel dripping from regulator but I can smell fuel odor in vacuum line elbow. Smell was there even with the old regulator, I thought that it had shot diaphragm and replaced it. I really don't know where to look next, as I can't really see any fuel leaks and fuel consumption seems to be around normal... -
Located on the transmission. -
Greetings, Have a 1989 YJ with the 2.5l TBI. Have had a sporadic idle, stall problem. Verified fuel delivery and injector performance, tested and/or replaced all sensors and IAC motor. Cleaned throttle body, checked for vacuum leaks. Kept looking over at the coil/icm assembly, but thought "no, just replaced those not too long ago." Long story short, tested the coil - badly out of spec. Changed out both coil and icm and finally (slow learner here) checked voltage entering coil. Constant 14 =/- volts at startup and run. Checked with my daughter who drives the vehicle and she confirmed after pondering that yes, seems to only happen after driving for quite a while - giving the icm/coil plenty of time to get nice and toasty. So, I'm guessing that means ecm troubles, as I know this problem has popped up from time to time but am wondering if it is possibly an ignition switch issue? So, I'm checking with the experts before I choose which pain in the butt part to remove first. Thank you. -
Hi, I've been hunting and chasing my tail to get some kind of throttle response from my wrangler above 45 MPH. I know these are not very powerful to start but I feel like what I'm experiencing is abnormal. Anywhere above about 45MPH when throttle is given There is little or no response from the engine. I have gone through the tuning and troubleshooting, replaced numerous things and adjusted what is able to be adjusted to the best of my understanding. Most recently I put a new cylinder head on due to a cracked web between valves on cylinder 4. I was so sure this was going to solve my issue considering the cylinder was down to 70psi compression. Though the engine runs smoother and quieter now it still is lagging at higher speed. 5th gear is pretty much useless unless going down hill. I have access to a modis scan tool so I can see ecu data. What is bothering me at this time is the engine rpm's are reading about 400 rpm's lower than my tach. Idling around 575 rpm's according to the scan tool data but reading around 1000 on the tach. In my opinion it feels like it is closer to the 1000 rpm range but I don't have a way to check it at this moment. My question is where does the ECU get the engine speed? is it from the ICM or the CPS? If its the cps can the cps fail in a way that it still reads but reads low? I may be barking up the wrong tree and I likely am. but right now I'm trying anything i can think of. Any other suspected areas to check? Any scan tool data that would be more important than others? Any suggestion is welcome. Thanks Dan -
On the passenger side engine compartment on my 89 yj 2.5 liter there is some diagnostic plug in connectors. which one is the connector for the isa motor control? Which one is D-1 and D-2? How are each individual holes in connectors numbered ( 1-2-3-4-5-6 etc>)? -
Hello to All.... I wish to thank all the members and especially you Mr. Ludell for all the time spent on our endless problems.... I have reviewed all the posts that might pertain to my problem and do not wish to ask a question that can be easily answered by simple review... My YJ has had an.. "on again / off again" problem that may not be related to this exact problem but it just seems to have never been 100 % or maybe even 80%... The current problem started on an outing in the woods ..drove fine climbing, downhill and 4wd.. coming back the engine began to act like it was starving for fuel..the harder you press on the gas the more it chocked out...would idle fine..no power.. So... I took it to mean a faulty pump and ordered same...pulled tank ..found sock off the pump..Problem solved ??..decided since I have a new one might as well drop it in.. "nice to have a trail spare anyway".. replaced tank with new filter... went to fire it up ...no start..no apparent fuel at the TBI....Now it wont run at all... So... check electrical to pump ..fine..check lines..fine.. Ordered a Pressure gauge...slap it on the TBI access port ..No pressure.....Check pressure before the TBI... jumps to 50 psi...way to much..?? checked inline with " T " Key on 25 psi.. Start..jumps to 50 psi..no apparent fuel returning to tank.. SO.... rebuild the TBI... bad regulator..Maybe...clean, replace TPS , new injector, and filters while its apart... " Nice to have trail spares anyway" reassemble...try to start ...no fuel.... So....Back to ZERO.... No fuel getting past the Regulator... Remove TBI..reinspect , reassemble..try to start...no fuel Also the CPS..MAT sensors replaced during the last session...Of unknown problems..."Nice to have trail spares anyway" When fuel is manually poured in the carb. she fires right up and I can keep it running if i drizzle it in.. So... it runs if i can figure out how to get my wife under the hood with a squeeze bottle while I drive....Could work...Maybe.. Make a great hood ornament...Should switch that around encase she reads this..She Drives....ya sounds better... The questions are.....will the pressure spike to 50 psi if there is no return to tank..? Is 50 psi just way to much ..? Will to much pressure cause the regulator to shut down so to speak..? Is it possible the spring in the regulator is bad ,The kit did not have a new spring...Seems a weak spring would allow to much fuel...did try to adjust with set screw...no Fuel...? The TBI is clean no blockage in ports...so what could be stopping the flow... Other than the regulator... ? "Did I just answer my own question..Maybe" Why are my troubles worse now after the repairs..At least it ran at idle before? Your Attention , Patience and experience with this matter will earn you my admiration and a box of Girl Scout cookies...of your choice Jamie -
So this is a wierd one, I've looked and looked on the Internet and can't figure it out. My jeep wrangler runs and drives just fine but there is no cel on start up. I know there should be code because I have no 02 sensors hooked up. I want to know if there is more though. Any help would be appreciated -
Hello all. I have a 1990 jeep wrangler with a 2.5l 4cyl engine. The engine is young, only 4 or 5 thousand miles on it. However the rest of the drive train has 264,000 miles on it. Anyway the saga continues after adding new rear leaf springs. After the replacement on the way home this noise happens only when I let off the throttle. I think the ride hight is higher than what the stock was. But that should still not cause this noise Right? My question is what the stock springs should be just to verify I have the right springs and and what the awful sounds coming from the transfer case. Transfer cases are a bit of uncharted territory for me I'm unfamiliar with it. I have a video included. What shall I check first? -
Hi Guys! I've scoured these pages the last couple days, but can't find anything that matches my specific dilemma. I have a 1990 Wrangler w/ 150k miles on it, recent acquisition by my future son-in-law. It was running relatively fine, but it quit suddenly on a recent trip. It started cutting out when hitting bumps, then finally quit altogether. After dragging it home, hitting the forums, swapping a few parts, following all the sensor tests and wrapping my head around this TBI setup, I am afraid I have a partially dead ECU. -All ignition parts replaced- Ignition Module, Coil, Wires, Cap and Rotor, Plugs. -The truck will crank the engine just fine, but has NO spark at coil or plugs, and NO gas at the injector. The fuel pump comes on with ignition switch for 1-2 sec, there is fuel in the line at the throttle body, I have not checked fuel pressure yet. -A new CPS was installed, I checked the CPS, 217 Ohms (slightly low), 0.54 VAC while cranking the engine. - All other sensors checked out nominal. There is 5 VDC to the TPS and MAP sensors, so the ECU is not entirely fried. -While tracing the sensor wiring, I found a wire broken internally between the CPS sensor and the ECU (red-white wire tied to pin 28), I'm guessing that was the root cause of the failure. I'm afraid the ECU board may have been damaged in the process of the wire failing while driving. -I am looking for information about what I should be seeing for the output signals for the Ignition Module and Fuel Injector from the ECU. I expect they will be low voltage AC pulses, grounding the DC power supplied to the Ignition Module and the Injector. I have not found any specifications for the AC voltage or pulse duration for either the Ignition at pin 27 or Injector at pin 21 of the ECU. I measured both of these signals while cranking the engine, I got ~0.1 VAC at the injector, and basically zero (0.004 VAC) at the ignition module output. These numbers lead me to believe that the output drivers for these functions are damaged or dead, although I can see no signs of physical damage, no burnt smell, melted traces, cracks, or corrosion anywhere in the ecu components. Is there any function programmed in the ECU which would completely shut down the spark- and injector-outputs based on some combination of other inputs for some safety reason ? Any info on the specific layout of components relating to the Ignition and Injector Drivers in the 1987-1990 ECU would be greatly appreciated! And Thank You to all who have gone before me here, the info trail has been invaluable!! -
I have a 1988 YJ 2.5L and am I right to assume that it has the AX5 tranny? If so, is there a kit available to convert from the internal clutch slave cylinder to an external? Is this something I should do? I believe the slave is working properly but the bearing is definitely making noise. I have less that 800 miles on the new (slave/throw-out) that was purchased at a local box store (oreilly's) and it's already making noises. Any suggestions or opinions are greatly appreciated. Steve -
I put a new 2.5l into the jeep and it only has 400 miles. It was running great till suddenly the issues popped up again. I hooked the scanner up and saw that the short term trim was ridiculously high. Its reference point at idle is 128 and its running at 180. The long term trim is at 109. the injector pulse is 2.0. The o2 sensor was reading no higher than 500mv.
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Moses and @biggman100 @BadDriver4x4 thanks for taking the time (a full year ago!) to respond to my inquiry. A little update: I found a mechanic out in Suffolk County, NY who is supposedly the local Jeep expert. I drove the hour to visit, nice guy, knows his stuff, but I think he was a bit un-enthused about me supplying all of my own parts, and he has a full schedule - and he knows that an picky, educated customer with a rusty Jeep is a bad value proposition! He never got back to me with a quote. Well, arm be damned, I decided to take my time and do the work myself. Some parts: - Full brakes (calipers/rotors, drums/cylinders, new soft lines) - Axles (front u-joints (Spicer), ball joints (Spicer), knuckles, hubs (Timken), bolts, lug nuts) - Susprension (Old Man Emu springs/bushings/shackles/u-bolts) - Steering linkages/links - Plus all-new hardware (McMaster), and MOPAR parts where they made sense or where they are still available. Besides the springs it is essentially stock, just a mild lift. - Lastly, some brand-new MOPAR lamps & lenses, and a nice new Made in USA "Softtopper": http://www.softopper.com/jeep-suv-tops/jeep-wrangler-yj So far I have taken her all apart and I am just about complete with rust removal & treatment (POR-15, I couldn't pass on the opportunity to tackle some rust - dropped the tank too). I am using a lot of Omix-Ada parts also, and am pleased with the quality. I also am impressed with the Centric calipers, which are nicely zinc-plated. The job is taking longer than anticipated (going on 3 weeks) but I can not wait to experience the difference, "before & after", after 230,000 hard miles. Cheers! Some photos here & attached: http://imgur.com/a/GXhzV -
I have attached a few pictures of this transmission I have but I don't know where its from I need help identifying this transmission the only thing I can identify here is the transfer case because it has the sticker in the back its an NP "new process" 249 J This is a manual 4wd transmission I believe its an ax15 transmission but please give me your input as i'm not sure any help is appreciated one more thing from the shape of the bell housing I don't think this came of a Jeep possibly AMC or other but thanks again -
Moses, I made a video of the Snap-on MT2500 scan tool readings maybe this will help in the RPM issue. Here is some history of the 89 Jeep Wrangler YJ 2.5L. I have what i call a hiccup when idling or driving every once in awhile. The engine is usually warm to operation temp and will hesitate or act like it dies ( rpm drop at an idle to 200 rpm or so) while idling in the drive way. Sometimes will die but will start right back up and there is days when it dose this hiccup while i am going 25 or 45 mph or what ever speed and has no rhyme or reason. Here is what I have replace or trouble shoot with a multi-meter (analog and digital meters), i check and replace vacuum hoses where needed and replace 4 small hoses on the TBI. Clean the crank sensor, replace MAT sensor, installed MAP sensor but ended up not using so replace with original. I compression check each cylinder and had 95 to 100 psi per cylinder. I put Seafoam in each cylinder and let sit overnight. Did this twice to get rid of the blow-by and it hasn't consumed any oil in 1000 miles spark plugs look good too, light colored. The Plastic valve cover was replace with an new oil cap as well because of oil being push out thru the oil cap. After the Seafoam treatment I check compression and found it went up to 110 in each cylinder. The engine has no leaks and no noise of any kind that would point towards replacing it. Also put Seafoam in the gas and poured some into the TBI. This seem to work quite will for smoothing out the idle and performance. I have real good acceleration. Previous owner replace the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap, O2 sensor, belts, and change all drive train fluids to synthetic and oil change with Valvoline 10-30. I Check grounds under hood and they look great. The engine idles about 800 rpm. I borrowed a Snap-on MT2500 and scan it but really nothing stands out. When the jeep is running I wrote down the readings from the MT2500 and notice the ST Fuel trim 126 and LT Fuel trim 133 steady. I listen to the TBI with the air horn off and sounds like a hissing noise when the engine starts to hesitate or stall, but will start right up. Kind of out of answers other than the TBI needs replace and I have plenty of power on the highway and thru the whole power band from start to 80 mph. I removed the gas tank because the sending unit was showing incorrect gas level so I tested the gauge and the sending unit and found the baffle in the tank was the issue, so I removed it and check all the fuel lines and the vents and all is good and not plugged up. Gas gauge reads correct now and it seems to run pretty good today as I drove it for about 10 miles. What is your thoughts, thanks. VID_20161029_134408091.mp4 VID_20161029_134128876.mp4 -
Hi im from the Netherlands,. (So sorry for my bad English) and got a problem with a 89 jeep wrangler The jeep gots a 4,2 6cilinder with I guess a 32rh transmission the transmission pump has eating the converter ;) so the converter was rebuild, en a another pump mount, but I've changes also the clutch plates and seals after a everything was assembled : the car drives 1&2 gears perfect but the 3rd gear late, and. Cold very late. The reverse was slipping, so I've put everything out (again) and checks the front clutch, I've thought the inner seal of the front clutch was not right, after a new seal, and everything together the reverse works great! but still the 3rd gear is late and sometimes gone... ive tried another valve body, but doesn't help anything well did I see the rear band is going worn??? and went I put the front clutch on the pump and do a air check with 30psi the air is leaking between pump reaction shaft and the clutch housing but the front clutch sealing rings are new short: why does my rearband and rear drum go worn why does the 3rd gear shift so late/ is it usually that it leaks between reaction shaft and clutch by 30 psi? thanks Bas -
1990 jeep wrangler with the 2.5l 4cyl engine. it was rebuilt about 10 years ago its got 100,000 ish on the engine. About 4 years ago it started making this noise. Some people thought it was a diesel engine. oil pressure test confirms somethings up. The needle was some what jumpy. It only does it when the engine is warmed up. I suspect its a lifter issue or a spark knock. Any ideas?
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Hey All, I have had my jeep for around a year, the only issue I have had is a bad master cylinder that had to be replaced, but since then no problems as a daily driver. Over the past few weeks she has suddenly started stalling on me and I wanted to get an opinion on what the symptoms point to so I can try to pinpoint the issue. So far I have tried replacing the ignition coil, and that did not fix the overall problem. Here are the symptoms: 1987 Jeep Wrangler Sport YJ 2.5 TBI. Jeep has started to stall at stop signs and stop lights, but only after getting warmed up (15 minutes or so). Stalling completely takes out brakes and power steering, but battery shows fine, and all interior electronics work. When turning the key on, I can hear the fuel pump going, and it doesn't stop. Previous owner said to not turn the key to accessory and keep it there as it will kill the fuel pump as it doesn't turn off. This doesn't seem normal to me? Jeep idles high when started, goes down to normal idle, and once warmed up will idle rough and low, 600-700. Idling will not cause her to die though, only movement and shifting. Jeep will not start back up once shes been running or after she stalls unless she sits for 10-15 minutes, and she will start fine but a little rough. 6 Months ago or so she started not starting occasionally unless I pushed the gas slightly as I cranked and she would then squeal and start rough. My action list for what I think might help or fix the issue, just waiting for a non rainy day: Check the ISCM module, clean it and check that its working (Whats the best process for making sure it is working as it should be?) Clean the throttle body and check for even fuel spray Replace crankshaft position sensor Replace fuel filter Replace fuel pump relay in hopes of stopping the thing from constantly running Check fuel pressure Replace fuel pump (My final resort, I will have a shop do this as I do not have the means) I am including a picture of my throttle body, how do I go about cleaning it? I cannot seem to find much about this online, every video or site shows what I am guessing a different fuel injection system. Do I remove the injectors on the top and clean underneath with throttle body cleaner? The jeep is 30 years old and is in really good shape for its age, I don't want to screw anything up, but I want to learn all I can. I guess I mainly want to know if I am in the right direction. I appreciate it. I have also read this thread: And it was also extremely helpful. Thanks! Tristan (Sorry for the long post, I wanted to give as much detail as possible) -
I own a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0L just got it reassembled after repainting I'm having 1 issue it's starting hard I replaced the iac valve no change when it starts firing it only sounds like a few cylinders until it warms up i have to keep my foot on the throttle slightly it sometimes back fires but once it's warm it runs perfectly fine. I don't have a vapor canister in it cause it got lost could that be my issue?
