Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RareCJ8

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  1. very interesting stuff moses. my 650 was already uncorked and unplugged when i bought it, so i have no idea about condition or jetting, etc. the manual start is a real bugger. sometimes i get pretty winded just getting it to start, not counting all the times right foot slips off kick start lever and right foot peg jams into the shin...ouch. that said, it can sit for months and months and after about 7-8 good kicks, starts right up. My latest project is to install the front brake re build kit. seems sitting for a length of time allows air to get sucked into the system leading to no or n
  2. Let's hit the trail!

  3. My play toy is a Jeep CJ and daily driver is a Chevy 2500HD with many upgrades. It has the 8.1L V-8 and Alison combo. Plan is to sell it and get a newer Tacoma. Am just now learning some of the ins and outs for the Tacoma truck. But at $30k... yikes. Need to find an old lady that only drove her Tacoma to church...I get some 4x4 magazines from Australia, and Toyotas seem all the rage, as are nissans and landys... Will watch this forum for more info. mb
  4. The pick up outlet on tank is 3/8 as are the fittings on the pre filter. Research shows the screw on fitting for inlet is Ford sourced. Had to change that to accept the AN hardware. Will research further. Several lengthy discussions on this issue at forums.
  5. For the standard inline external pump, I am designing the aux pump system and have three of them here. The old one, a replacement and a 'gotta carry a spare' one. In the process of converting to -AN 6 in/out hardware, I stumbled upon an interesting discovery. The out of the box fuel pump uses a screw-on adapter designed to accept 5/16 input line. Most installers use 3/8 line and just clamp it down. Problem is the 5/16 brass inlet fitting severely restricts the suction end of the pump. It's already working hard enough, why choke it? By adding a 3/8 inlet fitting more fuel will pas
  6. Follow up Q: in aviation, fuel and oil filters are cut open for examination. Requires a special can-opener tool. Do you have a simple suggestion to carefully open either without contaminating the sample? I tried once with a band saw and just made a mess. might be interesting to see what's being captured in a closed-cell filter.
  7. its 5/16" efi rated line from top of internal pump assembly to the YJ filter. CRO33000076 exiting the filter is 3/8" going fwd. why the jeep engineers made the inlet different from the outlet is unknown. Perhaps to stupid proof installation so the tech does not install filter backwards? the pick up for the mopar efi conversion exits top of tank on driver side and the 'straw' goes to the floor of tank but there is no servicable internal fiter, thus the need for an external pre pump filter just like the kit directs. so: in tank pump with screen/sock to new spin on filter.
  8. Tired of the hassle dealing with changing out your YJ style frame mounted fuel filter? Me too. Messy and time consuming. Thanks to guidance and suggestions from Moses, this is the new plan: In tank pump exits with 5/16" efi rated hose to a 6 or 8 AN filling into a spin-on fuel filter installed in same location as the old YJ filter. From there another 6 or 8 AN fitting and tie into the metal fuel line that heads forward to engine. Removal and filter replacement will be a simple affair. Ordered the RM350. http://www.fstperformance.com/ In the spirit of redundancy will also ins
  9. Thinking of a serviceable fuel filter when I install a new Aero fuel tank. Phenix Industries F78100-H is 100 mircon. Is that sufficient compared with the mopar yj filter? (cannot link to the info) its very durable, stainless inside and is re buidlable with an internal element: http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-6747637-in-line-primary-fuel-filter-stainless-element-dash-10-hard-anod-marine.html I can adapt the filter and other connections with 8AN fittings to make filter cleaning/removal a snap. Will also plumb the external pump (to be held in reserve for an emergency) with same fittings
  10. Ah, Reese River Valley. We recently stopped into the abandoned Hess Ranch. Interesting ruins. The drive up Big Creek over to Kingston is fun but there is a pesky seasonal snow drift right at the top that denies many intrepid explorers. Same for Northumberland Pass. We have a fall run in the planning stages to traverse northern Nevada from Jarbidge to Gerlach, hitting all the isolated mining camps and fishing lakes.
  11. http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.php/70932-Black-Rock-Over-Memoroal-Day-W-E-2013 fun times!
  12. Moses, thanks so much for all the help. New pump ordered and on its way to me VIA UPS. Tomorrow tank goes to A1 Radiator to get hot tanked... Let the build begin... Mark
  13. Moses wrote: Note: Each of these pumps are designed to fit the OEM pump module, they are not fitted at each end with a host nipple—one end only. See the illustrations for details, this may not work if you don't use the OEM module stand. Contact www.fuelpumps.com and see whether they have a universal Walbro that has hose fittings at each end and the flow rate you're looking for, Mark. As long as the pump wiring will match the Mopar EFI kit approach (confirm before buying), that should do it. Share the Mopar EFI kit pump number with them: 1-888-841-8288. Not clear here Moses.
  14. thanks for the reply. i want to retain the in tank pump as primary feeder and the external pump only for emergency back up. i like the idea of perhaps a ball valve, so to switch over by climbing under and unplug/plug in and go. The biggest issues i've had with the external mopar pumps (yes, all are the conversion model) is depriming after sitting a while or the supply line drying out and cracking, thus sucking air. that can add a lot of stress to the day. The only way I have found to re-prime the external pump is to use a 10' length of heavy wire with alligator clips and manually add 1
  15. Part II ok, tried to paste a link to photobucket pix-- no go. is there a trick? The last couple weeks before the pump died, at key on when the computer flashes a fast 12 volts to the pump, when it powers for a moment, before it was relatively quiet, but lately it gave a real growl that one guy said he heard from 50' away. Even at idle, the pump was distinctly loud all the time. Approaching death throes? Before we dropped the tank we used the temp pump to suck out the remaining fuel to make it easier to handle. Pumped out the fuel thru a Mr. Filter into a sceptor MFC. Extracte
  • Create New...