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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    This topic is new member Sparky1's question...I moved the discussion here, as this is a Jeep XJ Cherokee topic that will be of interest to many...Thanks for participating at the forums, Sparky1, we look forward to your involvement! In response to Sparky1's original question (in the next post), I haven't done this swap, but here's what I do know...The later model Jeep vehicles feature a security/anti-theft interlock system that ties the steering column/key functions to the powertrain management system. This matches the vehicle's VIN to the key lock mechanism, actually useful. When I toyed with the idea of a Liberty diesel engine swap into our 1999 XJ Cherokee (like your XJ), informed sources at Chrysler shared that this could only be done with a PCM match to the steering column. The standard route was to install the recycled engine, its PCM and the steering column from the same donor vehicle. So, I would suspect that the JK Wrangler steering column has ties to its PCM, and the PCM for a JK would drive a 3.8L or 3.6L V-6, not your inline 4.0L Jeep six. That's what I do know, others may have more insight here... As a footnote, I also know that the late JK Wrangler steering wheel is very cool! Moses
  2. Moses Ludel
    To assist with your rebuild and help other members at the forums identify and select genuine Jeep/Mopar parts by their original Mopar part numbers, I have compiled a parts PDF for the Dana 300 transfer case, 1981-86 Jeep applications. Here is the PDF that you can view, zoom into for image clarity and order parts, using the factory part numbers: Dana 300 Transfer Case Mopar Parts.pdf I trust that this will be helpful when you describe various features and components, Forman. Zooming into a PDF, you'll discover how clear, detailed and helpful these images can be! Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    We've moved to a new topic as Forman begins the teardown of the Jeep CJ-7 Dana 300 transfer case. Join us at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/260-rebuilding-a-jeep-cj-7-dana-300-transfer-case/... Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    Umm, Forman, that's quick work to discover very clean journals...So, where's the aluminum chafing off? Looking forward to your further diggings when time permits...Oil pump? Chain sweep? Where? Keep us posted! Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    Very clean work, Bru...I like the professionalism exhibited all around. I have a shelf with tube sleeves, even some seamless where quality, rigidity and repeated use are the demand. Invariably, the specialty niche tools meet a narrow range of needs, making "universal" tools that much smarter. My equipment includes a number of Miller niche tools, which I really value. What's disappointing, though, is that when OE vehicle builders change models and designs, these tools get used less and less. An example would be my complete set of Dana axle centerline setup discs (Dana 30 to 70!), which are terrific for Dana and Spicer axle work. Unfortunately, the late Dodge/Ram is not Dana equipped. Every bit as strong and reliable as Dana axles, the later Chrysler truck axles share common ground with G.M. and use AAM axles. Great axles, however, different setup tools. This is why independent shops have many "homemade" tools. I even have special items like brackets to place a Buick Dynaflow transmission on my Mark Williams' Bench Mule. On that note, you're at Colorado. The Mark Williams' Bench Mule has been an absolutely indispensable tool for axle, transmission, transfer case, pump, steering gear and other rebuilding chores. Designed for the 9" Ford axle, the Bench Mule's adjustable versatility is as broad as your imagination! Check it out, though a bit spendy on the front end, this bench holding fixture will pay for itself a hundred times over. For one-guy work especially, the Bench Mule is fantastic—you can rotate a loaded transmission, transfer case or even an axle around—with two fingers! Thanks for sharing...We value your participation at the forums, Bru... Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    If the crankshaft was pressed apart and a new or used rod installed, there could have been a balance issue with the crank assembly. Also, the flyweights must align perfectly, or the entire crankshaft assembly will want to swing out of center, which can tear up the case. We'll see what you find, Forman. Also, keep moving parts balance in mind when doing the reassembly. You don't want another 100 mile ride to serve as the engine's lifespan. Matched parts or subletting a balance job on the crankshaft assembly would be worthwhile. I thought more about your cylinder head work. If the casting is damaged and there is severe valve seat recession, most single cylinder motorcycles get a new head. Honda castings are in the $300-$400 range, you're creative with used parts, and it sounds like there are plenty of KLR pieces out there. This discussion is bringing back a flood of memories. When I worked construction and as a heavy equipment operator and repairs in the early 'seventies, I "followed my passion" on the side and opened an independent motorcycle repair shop. Though my forte was British motorcycles, I magnanimously worked on anything that came through the door, a good business move for a small town. The Chrome Horse was a fun and challenging venture. Alongside BSA, Triumph, Norton and other British marques, this was the era of vertical shock dirt bikes, two- and four-stroke, plus the hot street two-strokes like the Kawasaki HI and H2, two totally lethal motorcycles good for nothing but straight line drag racing. Honda had revolutionized the industry with the CB four-cylinder engines. I was "in my element" as we say! I worked on OHC Honda engines of the day and was always fascinated with the Japanese ability to machine precisely—regardless of casting appearances. The capper for me was mating two used and foreign case halves for a Honda CB350 without a bit of oil seepage or any measurable misalignment. Says much for Honda, though the appearance of frame welds were another story at the time. In fairness, they did hold. This was my life before four kids (now a bunch of grandkids, too), a fancy college degree from the University of Oregon and decades of chasing the brass ring (American Dream, take your pick of euphemisms!). The Chrome Horse at Carson City was my independent motorcycle side business while working construction and running heavy equipment at northern Nevada in the early to mid-'seventies. Motorcycles have been in my life for a half century now, my first operator's license was at age 14, a Nevada Scooter License. Funny how some passions stick around! Donna and I have been married for 37 years. Moses
  7. Moses Ludel
    Good job, Forman. This will make final clean-up much easier. Take your time from here. The secret to a Dana 300 rebuild is to follow the sequence steps closely...My Rebuilder's Manual has worked well for many owners... I opted for a glass bead blaster years ago. TP Tools & Equipment has a range of blasters from small to large cabinets. At our earlier shop, I had a unit that could handle a Jeep axle housing. Now I'm working with a smaller cabinet, ideal for my motorcycle work and items like transmission cases or your Dana 300 case and pieces. Here's a fun story about my compressor: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Downsizing-and-Air-Compressors!.html. Enjoy! Moses
  8. Moses Ludel
    Wow, Forman, thanks for sharing the KLR stories, others will benefit from your saga, especially the "buyer beware" experience at Craigslist. That source has a dark side, and you unwittingly walked into it. Perhaps demanding close-up photos of the engine serial numbers (which also designate year model) would have been a good idea. On that note, hindsight is always 20/20. I should talk, I'm the guy who recently bought a Honda XR650R motorcycle with "less than 1000 original miles on it", allegedly in top shape. It would not start, and the previous owner and I brushed that off to "stale fuel". I bought the cycle without starting or riding it, on the sellers word and reputation, and got home to find that no amount of kicking would start the engine—after $300 worth of tuning, restoring the dual-sport conversion pieces, a new fuel petcock assembly and flushing the fuel system, also a jet replacement that was ominously long overdue and the discovery that the air filter had been leaking dirt past its edges! Fortunately, my story had a very positive ending: The previous owner made a fair monetary remedy, and I began the project that you see featured at the magazine now as a popular how-to HD video project. I've yet to ride the motorcycle that I purchase in November. Soon it will run as new after my current work. Your grenade engine was quite a project, you made a gallant effort, and your workmanship looks clean and thorough. The unwind of this rebuild warrants close attention, we'll look at the salvaged engine as you tear it down. My first question is whether you flushed out the entire lubrication system during rebuilding. This engine had aluminum grindings everywhere, and though it looks like you did a very thorough cleaning job, could aluminum debris have been left in unopened oil passageways or galleys? At this point, if all of that metal circulated for 100 miles through the engine, there's a good possibility it will not be easily flushed and has caused damage. However, a teardown is work, time and money, it's worth contemplating whether you'll find real damage or remnants of earlier chaos. Another curiosity is the bent connecting rod and how you remedied that problem. A crankshaft with flyweights and shafts out of alignment or imbalance could cause vibration and quickly chew up the engine case. Let's move the "which hone" question to the tool section, I'll detail my approach as soon as you post that tool topic. As for the valve face and seat cutting and valve stem height, if slight this can be adjusted with a valve adjustment (shim or screw adjuster method, depending upon the engine). If you're concerned about a baseline valve stem seated height, measure the seated valve stem's height above the valve guide. Use that as a reference for restoring the valve stem height—either by cutting the valve stem end (only slightly, do not create a hazard like a short stem causing a rocker to run off the stem and hit the retainer or dislodge the keepers!) or by installing new valve seats at a machine shop. Again, if the seat cutting and valve face grinding are slight enough, you can simply adjust the valves by the factory method to restore clearance. If faces take too much material to straighten up, replace the valves. Then your only concern would be seat cutting depth. Use discretion. Piston ring choice is dictated by the type of piston and the cylinder wall material. If Nikasil, use the factory recommended rings for that surface and honing angle. If you need to sleeve the cylinder (like I'm currently doing as my preference with the XR650R Honda engine at L.A. Sleeve), use the rings recommended for the honed sleeve material. L.A. Sleeve uses a patented moly-chrome alloy iron liner. I will use a cast (not forged) replacement piston with recommended rings for my usage. I opted out of a forged piston, they run more clearance, and I'm not racing. OE is a cast piston. Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    I've been shooting videos for four years now, including the Rubicon Trail with WFTW and Moab EJS, from on the ground and out of 4x4s. The Honda XR650R will be my first use of a motorcycle as a filming platform for HD video. If you're curious about High Rock Canyon, I did shoot that venue is SD video, you can view that low resolution Flash video at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/High-Rock-Canyon-Travel-Video.html. The magazine's videos quickly evolved into HD with shoots like the Wheelers for the Wounded, the 2011 Stampede Race and the 2011 and later Moab runs. You can get a feel for High Rock from the early Flash video. Expect HD videos, beginning this spring, summer and fall, from the dual-sport "viewpoint". For those curious, I now shoot in four HD 1080P formats: a full-on Panasonic HD 1080P/30/24 camcorder, a Nikon D7100 DSLR system and the GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition, each package complete with mounting hardware, stands, necessary optics and lighting, benefitting from Audio Technica stereo sound equipment plus monitor viewing for focus pull...Four years into this medium (following three decades of professional still photography and journalism), I have a handle on it! Actually, much of this work is the post-production phase, which I've been doing for four years, too... High Rock Canyon and the Black Rock Desert are each within 100 miles of our base...Rubicon Springs via Cadillac Hill (from the east to west) is less than 100 miles from our base at Fernley, Nevada. High Rock Canyon and the Black Rock are popular for adventure touring riders. Gerlach's Shell Station and Bruno's Restaurant have become landmarks for fuel top-off and a good meal. Lots of history at High Rock, I did a piece for OFF-ROAD Magazine that's now posted by Source Interlink on line at the Four Wheeler Network: http://www.fourwheeler.com/events/1006-4wd-high-rock-canyon/. We'll talk more about northern Nevada, there are limitless riding destinations, though many are seasonal, Dabneyr. If you like history and remote country, Nevada has much of each! Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    I TIG (GTAW) weld, including steel and aluminum. This case could be repaired; however, the only way to do it right would entail disassembly. You would never get the debris from grinding and prep work out of the case any other way. If we were at Mongolia, I'd do the welding as an emergency repair. (Long Way Around example: The broken BMW frame at that remote part of the world.) Though I do understand your hesitancy about disassembling two engines just for case swapping, there's little alternative if you want a lasting repair. The good news is that once down, you can clean up the valves, light hone and re-ring, and restore the seals and gaskets. The $100 engine looks like a find. It's really a shame this kind of damage took place. A Time-Sert repair would have been a quick and permanent solution the first time around for the stripped drain threads. (Watch my video, Forman, as a professional wrench, you'll value the insight here.) Aluminum castings are very easily damaged, especially threads, which an inexperienced previous owner discovered here. I'm very excited to hear more about your motorcycling plans for the dual-sport. The KLR has a wonderful following and reputation among world travelers. A major incentive is fuel savings; the earlier, lighter models boast 50-60 mpg under lighter cruising. Later KLRs (last five model years) have gained weight, which some value for highway ride qualities, others lament for off-pavement use. Your view here? Please share more about your motorcycling interests! Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    Oh, boy, the KLR! I'm very excited about the posts from new member Dabneyr with his two KTMs. Join in, we're moto guys, and the dual-sport/dirt motorcycle enthusiasm is infectious! I took a peek at your photo of the CJ-7. Deja vu: The 1983 CJ-5 I built for OFF-ROAD Magazine in the late 'eighties/early 'nineties featured in my Jeep Owner's Bible. Catchy is that the CJ-5 was originally the same color as your Jeep, seats included (worn out, they quickly were replaced in the project). It had a T-4 transmission with a 151 (Iron Duke) four-banger. That CJ ended up a 4.2L inline six and much more in the build-up. Guess the color caught me, your project looks very familiar. Later, I completely restored and upgraded a friend's CJ-7 for the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86. He's a lucky guy, there were significant upgrades to a 4.2L from the 2.5L AMC four and an NV4500 transmission retrofit involved, plus an axle locker and more. Keep us posted...Looking forward to the whole story about the Kawasaki KLR, its vintage, condition, what you're doing with it, and where you ride it. There's a forum and the photo gallery for each! Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    I'm familiar with the Kennedy Meadows access from Highway 395 at the Mojave Desert. Sounds like a very inviting area, and for California, accessible single tracks are rare. The terrain should be similar to northern Nevada, we're very fortunate with a great deal of public access land. Curiosity question: With each of your cycles plated in California, do you still need a Green Sticker? At Nevada, we've recently implemented an OHV permit program that requires dirt cycles and ATVs to have a permit—unless they are plated. This is level-headed and views the plated cycle like any licensed/registered Jeep or 4x4 traveling in the back country. My Honda XR650R, once dual-sport plated, will not require a Nevada OHV permit. The OHV permit issue helped prompt my purchase of the XR650R Honda motorcycle. It will be plated as a dual-sport. I've even considered plating the XR350R or XR500R, as each now requires an annually renewable OHV permit. There are registration fees and additional insurance if I plate one or the other of these XRs, which may cool my jets on the idea. Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    Biggman100...Too bad that you're doing the transfer case removal again, but it sounds like the oil-starved AX15 scorched the count shaft and upper bearings. These are close-tolerance gear systems in the AX15, and they have zero tolerance for running low on oil. Aside from actually starving the bearings, the shafts and thrusts can get hot and lose hardening. In this situation, the counter gear has now crept away from the main shaft due to bearing damage and run-out. You'll be ahead with the other transmission if in "good used" condition. Sometime (like we have time?), you might tear down this damaged transmission to confirm the damage. I have a good idea what it looks like without taking it that far: scorched bearings, gear scoring and a lot of metal debris in the bottom of the case. Some parts might be salvageable. Let us know the outcome... Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    Thanks for the details, Dabneyr...Long Way Around was a trial, Long Way Down seemed much better planned, and I fully agree about traveling lighter. My sole motivation for the Honda XR650R choice was weight. The cycle's performance "in the desert" or at the Baja 1000 is legendary, every dirt motorcyclist who watches "Dust to Glory" wants an XR650R! Visions of Mouse McCoy in a slide at speed, or Johnny Campbell on the beach dueling with Andy Grider, or Steve Hengeveld launching into his legendary night segment, quickly make every dirt riders' bucket list! I still have two earlier XRs, both 1984 models, an XR350R and an XR500R, we started the youngest son with an '83 XR200R, which had respectable performance, too, I rode it at times. Each of these cycles were respected in the day, Pro-Link rear suspension, ultra reliable but air cooled four-strokes. So, I'm joined at the hip to thumper four-strokes and the weight. On that note, my earliest "dirt cycle" was a BSA 441 Victor, an "On Any Sunday" era machine. I'll share that experience if anyone is interested. The XR650R tips the scale higher than the other XRs. For lugging a smaller complement of video equipment along, the milestone liquid cooling of the XR650R gains points. I've single tracked in basaltic rock at Nevada high desert country in the summer, and air cooling is constantly in your thoughts when lugging at a crawl pace for any time. I plan to use the XR650R while filming the annual Easter Jeep Safari, Moab, Utah, Tierra Del Sol, moto documentaries, travel documentaries and such. That's its place. Got to note that pounding around in 4x4s, strapped up with seat belts (three-point factory belts are horrible!) is far more punishing than suspending yourself on a dirt motorcycle. I've been doing each for nearly a half century now, and I'm opting for the motorcycle these days. Besides, it's more engaging and five-muscle-group physical! As my wife the yoga instructor quips, "A body in motion stays in motion!" I've been busy rebuilding the top end of the engine, which has drawn global traffic at the magazine's new "The Off-Road Motorcycle Channel" coverage in HD video. The XR650R has a huge following, interest way exceeds the number of cycles actually produced! I'm very pleased with the decision to ride the Big Red Pig and use it as a reliable filming platform. L.A. Sleeve has the sublet work on the cylinder and head, we've had several discussions about my main objective with the cycle: ultra reliability and longevity. Especially as a dual-sport conversion, this cycle must be much more self-sufficient, there will be no trailer to get it home. If I do the Rubicon Trail on two wheels, the XR350R is my mount of choice, it's more forgiving on the rocks than a heavier machine like the XR650R, and the power to the ground is stable and predictable. I've done rock crawling (gentle on the frame, please!) with the XR350R, it's much closer to a trials bike than the XR650R, which was purpose built for desert racing and winning the Baja—again and again! Agree with your comments about the Triumph and Icon's viral video. Triumph caught a wave here. The bikes fell plenty, even in the hands of expert riders. And yes, this movie is all about the riders—kudos to their skill and an outstanding video filming crew! The story is corny, the action riding incredible. Great ROI for Icon! I like your riding venues...We'll share more. I ride High Rock Canyon in NW Nevada, it's local. A group of XR650R folks out of Chico, California like that ride, too. Dual-sport friends are gathering in numbers, from all over, the Pacific NW included...No end to destinations! I have some interesting moto-based documentaries planned for northern Nevada. Interesting that you choose the 500 EXC for cruising around Isabella. I'm familiar with that road. Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    Soda blasting is so much more environmentally friendly! Good to have a service come to the house. As for panel welding, silicon bronze filler has become popular, it's acceptable for body sheet metal, and the melting point is considerably lower than wires like ER70-S2 or -S6. Body shops have switched to silicon bronze because of the lower melting point. I've played with this filler recently using 1/16" rod and TIG process. It works well and like any other filler. Some regard this as a "brazing" rod, though to me the finish and heat at the weld seemed similar to welding filler, maybe more confined and with a smaller heat affected zone (HAZ). I could not get the wire to "braze" in the traditional brazing/wetting sense, it quickly fused like a weld in the process. Tensile is not as high as ER70; however, the elongation and ductility is very good, making this a good choice for flexing sheet metal. The lower melting point of silicon bronze helps with minimizing distortion if you choose to weld. USA Weld has 0.030" wire with flux core. If you'd like to see the product, here is a link: http://www.usaweld.com/030-Silicon-Bronze-Welding-Wire-p/58230.htm. Ask your local body shop what they think of silicon bronze versus other welding fillers. If you do try it, practice a bit first on some clean scraps or "coupons" of sheet metal, approximately the thickness of the Jeep tub's body panels. As for the adhesive approach, I've had no experience with its use. I'm "old school" and skeptical of adding one more type of chemistry to mix with the primer/sealer, paint and clear coat options. You want to use a "system" of products that are chemically compatible if you go down this road. There are also lapping crimp tools with this process. The panels join at a step or ledge, right? Sounds like fun, JohnF! Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    Fantastic undertaking, JohnF! Soda blasting is now the deal, great even for aluminum like AFB carburetor bodies. As you note, the metal doesn't take a pounding, the rust disappears...Please post in the tools section and the Photo Gallery ("Modifications" postings like Megatron has done can be of great interest to members and guests.) Fun to watch this process unfolds! What are you using for blasting and welding equipment? The sheet metal panel welding can be challenging despite the flat panels on a Jeep CJ. MIG or oxygen-acetylene? TIG? Silicone bronze filler rod or wire? This is exciting, and I'm really pleased that you're this invested in the "family V-6 CJ"! Keep us posted... Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    I fully understand, JohnF...You do have your work cut out, and I'm excited to see your floorboard installation and the restoration of this Willys CJ-5 tub for the '67 Jeep CJ-5. I'm curious how you'll go about cleaning up this tub and eradicating the rust. Body shops frown on the use of glass bead blasting, it surface hardens sheet metal, which makes it difficult to work. Your plans? Use the forums to share the parts you're offering for sale, JohnF... Moses
  18. Moses Ludel
    Dabneyr...Welcome to the forums and thanks for these thoughtful opening posts! Our views stack up identically on these bike types, you have the ideal situation with the KTM 990 and a KTM 500 EXC, my first pick for a new factory dual-sport, though I like the Christini AWD, too! (Come on, Honda, where's the big thumper dual-sport?) You made two well considered choices. My sense for the KTM 990's attributes is its road handling option. DOT knobbies on a dual-sport like my Honda XR650R (a dual sport conversion) can be brutal, not to mention the rapid tread wear on asphalt! Good thing I have my own tire mounting equipment... It all comes down to riding venues. Like you share, Adventures and BMWs have done amazing things. The limit for me, however, is the pounding depicted in the first Ewan McGregor/Charlie Boorman documentary, 'Long Way Round'. (They fared a bit better in 'Long Way Down'.) The broken frame from 800 pounds of loaded girth (weight like a GL1500 Gold Wing we owned) is not my preference. I can TIG weld but not without a welder. Miles from nowhere in Mongolia, this is not a pretty picture. What is the maximum load you've placed on the KTM 990? Off-pavement? My plans for the Honda XR650R are tentatively 80% on-dirt and 20% asphalt. I respect your approach, and I'm assuming the KTM 500 EXC (great cycle, looking forward to hearing more about your experiences!) is primarily dirt. In fairness, the KTM 990 would be well suited for two-track gravel roads, which dot most of rural Nevada. The recent Icon pseudo-documentary "Raiden Files" says so much about great riders with larger adventure touring cycles. Triumph must be dancing on the ceiling from the publicity! I'm looking forward to getting the Honda XR650R in form, intended as a video filming platform for Moab, KOH/KOM and documentary work. For DOT tires, I'm targeting Michelin. The cycle's dry weight is 280 pounds, most concede this is a hefty dirt bike at 310-plus wet pounds in dual-sport conversion form, and I'll likely be toting another 25 pounds of gear. (I'm actually training now, reducing a dozen pounds of my own "curb weight" to keep this riding package within reason.) The current upper engine work and tune are aimed at ultra reliability while working hard...I do the Rubicon Trail with the Wheelers for the Wounded these days. Have not decided whether to subject this XR650R to such punishment... Your KTM 500 EXC has the edge for weight and should be a remarkably nimble and "flick-able" cycle off-pavement. Where are your riding venues for the two cycles? I'm very excited about your participation at this dual-sport and adventure touring forum! Would be great to see your cycles at the Photo Gallery/Garage! Enjoy the forums and thanks for your shared enthusiasm for cycles, Dabneyr! Moses
  19. Moses Ludel
    Biggman100, you bring up an important point, and I'll add a few comments. Oversized tires are not only more weight per wheel/tire, they are usually a hint that the vehicle has other modifications, too. And that adds even more weight! Our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4WD Quad-Cab had a factory curb weight of 7800 pounds. It now has a curb weight of 9000 pounds. A great looking, great performing truck, however, it now goes down the road empty with an addition 1,200 pounds onboard! That's like towing a small trailer... On another note, the Dodge/Ram truck, your Dakota or Bamafan1's Jeep TJ Wrangler are now standing tall and, I often like to say, "Pushing billboards down the road!" This increased wind resistance also impacts fuel efficiency. Even with the Hypertech tune on the Cummins engine, we're down about 2 mph over the stock height, stock tuned truck before the added 1,200 pounds, a lift kit and accessories. I'm not knocking it, 21 mph at sensible road speeds when "empty" is still quite good for a truck of this size. Moses
  20. Moses Ludel
    Bamafan1, you bring up a universal issue with our vehicles. If the 33" diameter tires went on your Jeep without a change in axle ratio gearing, the effect could be damaging to fuel efficiency. First, it's important to note whether your speedometer is accurate with the oversized tires, which create an additional "overdriving" effect. I did an article on the gearing subject for those interested: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Choosing-an-Axle-Gear-Ratio.html To begin, is the speedometer accurate? Also, in town driving is a very difficult way to assess fuel efficiency. To determine "normal" mileage for your Jeep TJ Wrangler first requires a baseline. This would be a steady run on the highway, optimally flat and without grades, for optimal fuel efficiency. The change to oversized tires often drops fuel efficiency. Your Jeep came equipped with 30" or so diameter tires (31" for the TJ Rubicon). Most manual transmission models have either 3.55:1 or 3.73:1 gearing, which you will find noted on the window sticker or at the axle tags. Either of these ratios with a manual/overdrive transmission is considered "tall gearing". This is low emissions oriented gearing and supposedly helpful to fuel efficiency. However, the low engine rpm on the highway at cruise speed in overdrive is anything but efficient. As a rule, engine efficiency is best at or near the torque peak of the engine. On the 4.0L inline six in your Jeep TJ Wrangler, peak torque is around 3000 rpm. If you notice while driving, your engine rpm at a 60 mph cruise in overdrive is more like 2000 or less rpm. Fuel efficiency might drop even further with oversized tires. Oversized tires, instead of adding a useful additional overdrive effect, actually drops fuel efficiency. Why? Because the engine is even further off it's peak torque rpm and under an increased load due to the oversized tires! To restore the engine rpm on our XJ Cherokee to stock (similar to stock tires with the OE 3.55:1 gearing), I had to install 4.10:1 gears. This gearing corrected speedometer calibration, too. So, to restore fuel efficiency with 33" tires, even to the stock level, you need at least 4.10 gears. Frankly, in my experience, with all the added weight of accessories and add-ons, I should have gone a step further and switched to 4.56:1 gears on the XJ Cherokee. Many go to 4.56:1 on the Jeep YJ or TJ Wrangler with 33" tires and a manual/overdrive transmission. We take a different approach with the 3-speed automatic transmissions to 2002. So, confirm your axle gearing and speedometer accuracy. If the speedometer is correct, let's look at the engine rpm at 60 mph in 5th gear/overdrive. (I keep assuming you have a manual transmission, is that correct?) Once you note the engine rpm at 60 mph, we can talk about ways to improve performance. As for your concern for an engine misfire, one issue for misfire can be a lugging engine—too low an engine speed under load and not efficient enough to burn fuel properly. I did take a recent initiative with the XJ Cherokee and was very happy with the results. Though historically shy of engine programmers and PCM tuners, I chose to test a Hypertech performance software upgrade. Set for unleaded regular fuel, the single most impressive gain was that my 4.0L six, similar to yours, now delivers peak torque at 2000 rpm, a full 1000 rpm less speed than stock! This means that I can cruise in overdrive at 60-70 mph without lugging the engine. In fact, with only exhaust system improvements that were already in place, both the engine's performance and fuel efficiency jumped up. See my article and details at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Hypertech-Max-Energy-Power-Programmers-for-Jeep-4.0L-and-Dodge-Cummins.html This actually was a surprise and real compliment to Hypertech's engineering. There is no "ping" with unleaded regular gas under load, and the XJ's curb weight is hefty! I would not recommend a software tuning remedy if an engine is worn badly or out of basic tune. At the current 145K miles on the engine, which is in good condition still, the gains were substantial, including fuel efficiency and much improved acceleration across the power band. Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    Mounting oversized tires is common for Jeep, 4x4 truck and SUV models. Member Bamafan1 sent a question that begs attention. This is a general topic that has importance. There is a "trickle down effect" when running oversized tires...These issues have solutions... See Bamafan1's note below, my reply, and join the discussion! Moses
  22. Moses Ludel
    Here's my take on your question, Bamafan1...At a stone steady idle, especially with a warm engine under no load, you may not notice the IAC function. With the IAC plug disconnected, try setting the E-brake and place your transmission (manual?) in 2nd gear. Keep your foot off the gas pedal and gradually let the clutch pedal up from the floor, just enough to create a load but not enough to stall the engine under normal conditions. Normally, engine rpm will begin to drop then instantly attempt to stabilize toward the factory idle speed. If the engine flatly lugs or dies, you'll get a sense for how a functioning IAC compensates for engine load to keep the idle speed stable. (Normally, if you depress the clutch pedal when the engine has this load, the rpm will momentarily flare up.) Obviously, if you let the peddle up too high with the brake set firmly, you will stall the engine. We're talking about load, not a dead brake against the engine. Unplugging the IAT of an idling engine, again not under load, would not make a noticeable difference—especially during cold warm-up where the CTS (coolant temp sensor) holds sway over the IAT function. Also, the IAT, even though it does have a role with injector pulse width settings by the PCM, is not as "important" as the O2 sensor. If the upstream O2 sensor is defective, you'll always get an engine code and maybe limp mode at the same time! (You'll get a code whether the up- or down-stream O2 sensor is defective, though the downstream should not throw the system into limp mode.) The O2 sensor is the major player in air-fuel ratio settings and control of the injector fuel flow. For emissions purposes, manufacturers are very concerned about the O2 function, and so is the EPA. Again, if you suspect a sensor is defective, a quick ohms-resistance test of the sensor makes for quick troubleshooting. We're trying to avoid unnecessary parts replacing... Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    The extension housing in itself should not cause the vibration issue unless the countershaft or mainshaft bearing(s) slid out of position during the installation of the adapter housing. Any growling or new noises from within the transmission? Check out the step-by-step in my AX15 rebuild article, especially steps 181 onward in Part 2: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-2-Assembly-and-Final-Work.html. See if anything here resonates with the work you just completed on your Dakota's AX15. Since the vibration is all with gears forward in the main transmission case, reviewing the AX15 article could help. You know what you removed and installed. Doesn't sound like the driveline, as you have a one-piece rear driveshaft, and it should connect to the transfer case readily with the slip coupler. Look over the front and rear driveline mate-ups to the transfer case outputs, including the front CV-joint. Also, there could be binding between the transmission and transfer case if this is not aligned properly. Think through the steps you performed. As for the unit on the garage floor, it can be difficult to shift a full-synchro transmission that is cold, especially without the gears rotating. Old, cold gear oil never helps; however, AX15 lube should not be that heavy. Before condemning the transmission on the garage floor, warm it up carefully with a space heater a bit, then rotate the input and output shafts while the transmission is in neutral. Turn the input and output shafts in opposite directions to get gears and the mainshaft pilot bearing moving. Once you get into each gear, rotate the input shaft. Use reverse, too. Caution: Make sure nothing slides out of position if the adapter housing is removed! The transmission shafts and bearings need to stay in position. Review the AX15 article while the recent work you performed is fresh in your mind. Since the adapter housing mates to the transfer case, consider the alignment issue. I'm guessing that you did this work in the chassis and that you did not remove the transmission? If you removed the transmission, is the crankshaft pilot bearing in position and in good condition? A wobbling input shaft or sprung clutch hub, running out of center, can also cause the vibration you describe. Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Very helpful, Biggman100, and encouraging, too. Nice to know that my generalization about the "Rust Belt" has many exceptions. Your strategy for where to look for vehicles in the East is useful to others. I would agree that finding an original 1955 Jeep CJ-5 is extraordinary. The most cannibalized and hybridized vehicles on earth would be the 1941 MB Willys through the latest JK Wrangler—and all Willys Wagons, Pickups, Station Wagons, Wagoneers/Grand Wagoneers, full-size Cherokees, CJs, YJs, XJs and TJs in between! Jeep/Mopar likes to use the term "most personalized" vehicles when describing the demand for Jeep Accessories. There is a huge aftermarket for Jeep, in fact, the SEMA Show at Las Vegas transformed during the last decade from a traditional hot rod and muscle car show into equal or greater billing for trucks and Jeep 4WD upgrades. Many aftermarket manufacturers now believe they need a Jeep line of retrofit products to compete. Thanks for sharing, Biggman100! Good to get your input from the region... Moses
  25. Moses Ludel
    Bamafan1...The IAC should throw a malfunction code P0505 if any of these conditions exist: IAC motor connector is damaged (check connector and pins for damage, and moisture) One or more IAC circuits open or shorted to ground One or more IAC circuits are shorted to voltage IAC has failed PCM has failed The IAT will throw a P1192 or P1193 code to share that the circuit is reading either high voltage or low voltage. Most sensors can be readily tested with a quality digital volt-ohmmeter for proper continuity and ohms resistance readings. Since temperature is usually involved, tests should be run with the right simulated temperature on the sensor to expose an "open" that may occur only when the sensor is warm/hot. I poked around on the internet to see how folks now approach troubleshooting. Of course it's impressive how troubleshooting can be helped along by self-interrogating electronics systems like the PCM's ability to troubleshoot and throw codes. However, I also have experienced PCM issues where the PCM cannot interrogate its own problems and either fails to throw codes or throws them rampantly and indiscriminately with no real substance. Weighing the popularity of this #1 Cylinder Misfire topic, I'm going to do a very basic troubleshooting HD video (maybe even a short how-to series) on quickly confirming the fuel, spark and timing functions of a modern Jeep MPI engine. There's a tendency to either overthink problems or limit troubleshooting to a dependency on codes thrown by the PCM. Most important is whether the engine runs right or not...I'll help here...This is basic. For a Jeep 4x4 used in the back country, you should be able to troubleshoot quickly on the spot. Seldom do several "devices" fail at one time, and pinpointing the crippling trouble area can often be done readily. We'll save the nitpicky, nuisance engine check light codes for when we get home—the idea is to get home. Moses
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