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jj_jeep

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About jj_jeep

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  1. Hi Moses, We did get the 3.6 L. The dealer also included a lifetime powertrain warranty in the deal. Just wish I could hold off the rust that I know is coming. I think my TJ frame rusted from the inside. Probably need a way to seal the internal surfaces of the frame and also provide good drainage so the frame doesn't hold the salt and water inside. Or, I need to consider moving west! I did inquire with several Jeep dealers about when the 2017's would be available. I was hoping it would come out soon and help the prices on the older models. None of them gave a straight answer
  2. When I mentioned $5k clunker to bridge through to the 18's, I was thinking of a Ford Taurus or something. Jeeps for $5k are very rusty here in the upper midwest! I saw on 09 with a hole in grill, dents in every panel, and a a rebuilt engine and they were asking $18k! I've seen TJ's with the 4 cylinder for $15k - used Jeep prices are very high! From what I have read, the Pentastar V6 and Daimler automatic are much more desirable than the old 3.8L and older transmission. I wasn't sure, so I thought I would check here. As it is, we found a 4 door JK and bought it during the Labor Day
  3. After 288,000 miles and 18 salty winters, the frame on my 1998 TJ has succumbed to rust. A local welder looked it over and told me there's too much rust for him to patch it together. So I'm looking at JK's. We are a family of four, so it seems sensible to have 4 doors this time around. JK's are very highly valued and hard to find. So my question is, is it worth holding out for a '12 or newer to get the Pentastar and 5 speed automatic? Or should I buy a $5k clunker to get me by until the '18 Jeep pickup comes out?
  4. Finished Sunday evening. Went surprisingly well. No broken bolts, bloody knuckles, or left over parts! I've never replaced freeze plugs or an exhaust header before. Aside from the number of steps, it was fairly straightforward. I took a few pictures along the way that I'll post when I have more time. It's amazing how poorly the Jeep ran when the header had only a small crack (which quickly became a big crack and then completely broke). With the new header, the engine is smooth and quiet. It feels like a turbo was added. I had to buy a bigger hammer and then the freeze plugs were
  5. Looks like freeze plugs (called expansion plugs on Napa website) come in deep cup and shallow cup. Can either be used? Any reason to pick one over the other. 2" diameter is what website says for 1998 Jeep Wrangler and that's matches my best estimate with a tape measure. Would you expect the block heater to come out like a freeze plug? Reason I ask is it looks like it has a flange on it that might prevent it from rotating in the bore? Going to attempt this. Might have to borrow a car - not sure I can get this all done before work in the morning! But don't want to tear this all
  6. Half way. Old is out. Everything is cleaned up ready for new. Thanks for the tip, Moses. I did not disconnect the fuel rail or fuel injectors of the fuel line - grateful for that. I wasn't looking forward to lining up 6 injectors back in the intake and fuel rail and stuffing that back together. The old header was broken on both pipes - The second one was hidden by the first one so I didn't see it until it was out. I think the hidden one has been cracked for a while because I've looked for cracks before but couldn't find them. Anything else to do before reassembling? Hea
  7. Bought a Dorman. It was ~$215 so toward the lower end for cost and my local auto parts store got it for me in a day. With the mileage and age of this vehicle I was OK with sacrificing performance and quality for lower cost. Also, as you troll the net about the manifold cracks, it's not clear that any of them eliminate the root cause of cracks. Whether myth or reality, people claim cracks on the Banks and Borla and Dorman. People also claim the aftermarket are the best ever. No clear answer so I picked convenience and price. Moses, with your method of easing the intake away from the
  8. Moses, thanks for the tips. I spent some time this evening putting liquid wrench on the fasteners. The ones underneath the manifolds are pretty tricky to reach! The Borla looks like it requires cutting the pre-CAT pipe - is this readily done with a hacksaw or sawzall? The installation instructions make no mention of it. I wonder if it's easy to get it cut to the correct length? I also saw JBA and and Banks headers that were direct bolt-ons, but the warranties among these three were quite different. Borla = 1 Million miles, JBA = 1 year, Banks = 5 years. The crack is now a near
  9. My 1998 TJ exhaust has been getting louder and started to backfire a bit. It got really loud the last several days and when I crawled underneath the Jeep to take a look I found a pretty sizeable crack in the header. How do people choose a replacement header? There seems to be the ~$170 models, ~$400 models which include the Mopar replacement model, and $500+ models with coatings and etc. Is it a case of "you get what you pay for?" How about the gasket between the manifolds and the head - is it important to use a brand name here? And when it comes to replacement, I was thi
  10. The PCV on this TJ engine is just an orifice that meters air flow from the crankcase. Moses might have a good strategy for checking the function of this. I think if you could get it out of the valve cover, you could feel with your thumb (or a gauge) if it's pulling vacuum through it. If no vacuum, it's plugged and not ventilating your crankcase. Cleaning it is probably easier than getting it out. I tried this once years ago and broke the thing off. Had to have the mechanic fix it because at that time I was too chicken to pull the valve cover off. I remember kind of an oily film on the v
  11. I haven't seen the MIL for a while now. I am starting to wonder if it improved after I added coolant to the overflow bottle. I noticed it was really low, so I filled it back to the full line. Fortunately, it's been holding at the full line, so I don't seem to be consuming coolant. And oddly, the MIL lamp has stayed away. What's the likelihood that these two things are related? Or is it just coincidence?
  12. I decided to go for the BFG AT KO's for my TJ. I think this is the third set of them for this Jeep. The mechanic who is putting them on for me advised that they are the best truck tire out there. He has them on his rig. He said the General's tread looks similar, but friends of his who have had them say they didn't last as long and their next set was BFG. But when next winter rolls around, I might take another look at winter tires, like Biggman suggests. Coworkers have them on their front drive cars and they seem to blaze the way through snow and icy highways. Frankly, my Wrangler wi
  13. I've never bought tires over the internet, but I know others who have and they've done well with this place... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?customSizeSearch=&width=30X&ratio=9.5&diameter=15
  14. My Jeep tj needs new shoes. How do people choose tires? I've been happy with BFG AT KO's in the past. But I see tire rack has general grabber AT for about $40 less per tire. So how can you tell if you're paying for a name, or a legitimately better tire. I'm not ready to commit $$ to a lift kit and new wheels, so I'm just looking at 30 x 9.50 15's. I'm in the upper Midwest so these tires will see snow and cold as well as summer heat. And sadly more asphalt than rock or dirt.
  15. Thanks ttippets. My airbag light is still on. I've wondered about the clockspring because my cruise doesn't work and then the airbag light is on. I was trying to figure out how to pin down if it was the clock spring. I wonder if I damaged the clock spring a while back when I replaced the steering gear. I thought I was careful, but maybe it's touchy? I like your suggestion of buying one online and replacing myself. You have to get a steering wheel puller, right?
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