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PANomad

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About PANomad

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Jeeps, Hunting, Hiking, Mountain Biking, Homebrewing
  1. Hi Moses, I changed out the oil pressure sensor, and cleaned up the center connection in the PCM. It's only been a few days but it seems that the oil is not building up in the connector anymore. If the oil starts to build up again in the connector over the next week or two I'll let you know, but for now it seems like that was the problem. The "noise" is still there, but I'm attributing this to a symptom of old age.
  2. Last night I got home later than I would have liked but still had some time to work on these issues. I was able to replace the cracked fitting on the end of one of the vaccum lines going from the LDP to the intake, and while I was at it, I replaced a few more that looked like they might crack in short order. I also replaced the drives side door handle. This is what took most of my time. The door handle I received from Quadratec did not have threaded holes for fastening to the door, and I couldn't find M5-16 screws or a tap at either the auto part store or the nearby Lowes. The closest
  3. Moses, I thought the same thing when I first read about the capillary action and wicking oil up inside the insulation on the wires all the way from the oil sensor or the CPS. I need to take another look with this in mind tonight, but when I cleaned the connector two weeks ago I noticed a damaged section of insulation and there was oil on the wires. I had already sprayed the contact cleaner on the plug at that point and I assumed it had run down out of the plug. That being said, I sprayed more contact cleaner on the plug as many times as I needed until it stopped seeping oil, then let it
  4. Moses, Looking at the schematic you attached, the screws are actually item 5. They are to attach the door handle itself (item 7) to the door. They don't seem to be self tapping from the schemaitc, but the thread is listed M5x16. I called to double check with the dealer, and they confirmed the thread size. Actually, I called them this morning and the guy said he didn't have a thread size only a part number. When I called them after your post to see if he could confirm 100% the self tapping characteristic I got a different guy, and he confirmed the size without me giving it to him first
  5. The paddle handles on the ouside of my TJ drivers door is difficult to open and usually remains stuck open. The paddle is twisted inside the rest of the housing so I'm assuming there's a bushing that has worn out and now causing the paddle to rub against the housing. I ordered replacement handles from Quadratec, and when they arrived I found the two bolt holes that hold the handle assembly inside the door are not tapped. Does anyone know what size thread this hardware is, so I can get the correct tap and complete the installation??? I plan on calling the parts desk at the Jeep dealer
  6. Hi Moses, After posting the photos last night I was searching the web for anything about an oily residue in PCM contacts. I found several posts for several different vehicle manufacturers related to engine oil leaking from a sensor and wicking up the wiring harness into the PCM. The descriptions and photos I found are exactly what I am seeing. When I originally posted about it two weeks ago, I can tell you that the oil was there before I cleaned the connections with electrical contact cleaner (allowing proper drying time afterword) and used the dielectric grease. I don't think the r
  7. OK. So I finally had the time to make these quick checks. I took the vaccum readings at the MAP at idle and the needle holds steady at 17. It drops initially as I apply throttle, and then smoothly climbs to about 22 at nearly full throttle in neutral. I tested the MAP sensor itself and it's working correctly. While I was testing the MAP sensor I found the end of one of the vacuum lines going to the LDP is split and probably causing the P1486 code. I checked all of the other vacuum lines and connectors again and didn't find anything else wrong. I'm going to go to the parts store tomo
  8. Moses, forgot to tell you the Jeep has 202,000 miles on it. Its been highly reliable and mostly free of major repairs.
  9. Moses, I checked the pcm connections tonight. There are three plugs that plug into it and the two outside plugs and the corresponding pins were clean. The middle plug was filled with what looked like engine oil and the electrical tape wrapped around the wire bundle going into the plug was worn through in one spot. The insulation on the wires inside was intact. I cleaned all the plugs and the pins with electrical cleaner, and applied dielectic grease before plugging them back in. I found the ground strap from the block to the firewall was dangling, but the other grounds were ok. I pulled th
  10. Hi Moses, I got home too late last night to be able to check anything we discussed, but this morning on my way to work I noticed a noise that I haven't heard before now. It sounds like something is rubbing/vibrating at high speed and it seems to start when engine revs get to about 1500 rpm. Around 1700 rpm it goes away and the slower rattle can sound starts. If I get off the throttle while it's happening, it goes away. I'm not sure it is happens above 1700 rpm because there is too much noise from the exhaust, road, and loose interior door panels to hear it at that point. I'm not sure
  11. Moses, I see you suspect a PCM issue now that I've posted the history on my Jeep for the last several months. I will check the connections to the PCM because I have never checked these yet, and I don't think the mechanic I had been taking it to did either. I also want to check the vacuum at the MAP. I also plan to check the grounds. I know there is a big one at the firewall, but can you let me know where the other(s) are?
  12. Hi Moses, In my first post, I meant to say great job on the magazine and forums. I've been on other forums and none are as well organized or provide as much valuable information as your does. I joined this forum because a few months ago I found and followed through the post on #1 misfire. At the time I was having a #6 misfire and no luck troubleshooting or addressing it. Last year my wife and I had out first child, and we live in the country about 45 minutes from where we work. I had just enough time between working for a living, taking care of my responsibilities at home, but with
  13. I have an update on my previous post. I noticed some valve knocking yesterday climbing some steep hills on my drive home so I checked to see if any new codes popped up since I last checked a few days ago (the MIL has been on this whole time). I still have the P1486 code, but I am now getting the P0455 (evaporative emissions gross leak) code as well. Is this logical? Can I have both a leak and a blockage and the OBD will catch them both at the same time? I checked my gas cap which was tight, and hissed when I opened it... I checked all the hoses around the charcoal canister and LDP again
  14. I need some help troubleshooting the possible causes for OBD code P1486 on my 2002 TJ. The MIL has been on for weeks now with this code because I cannot figure out the problem, and three repair shops have not been able to figure it out either. P1486 is a kinked hose in the evaporative emissions system. I have checked the hoses between the charcoal canister and throttle body, etc, and do not find any kinked hoses or hoses with a blockage. The first repair shop thought this was caused by a leak, and did a smoke test but found no leaks. The third shop thought there was a problem with my g
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