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  1. Here are 3 photos showing what I ended up doing. A machine shop recommended a metal supply company called ALRO Steel. They are nationwide metal supply company and lucky for me there was one here. I got two 3 inch angle irons 12 inches long ¼ inch thick, two 2 inch by 5 inch ¼ inch strap irons, and a pipe 1 ¼ inch diameter 18 inches long all for $36. The inner diameter of the steel pipe was just over 1.4 in., which is exactly what I needed so I did not get the plumbing pipe mentioned earlier. I also got a piece a half-inch steel from their scrap box that I could use in the pressing like I saw in the Toyota manual. A local mechanic welded up the stands for $20, which I thought was a deal. I prepped the metal with a grinder to remove the mill scale where it would be welded. I also dry fitted the straps on top to make sure they would be level. I had to grind one angle iron leg top a little bit to make the straps even when faced together. I wanted the strap iron to hang over about 0.35 inches, so I used a magic marker to indicate where to place the angle iron for the wielder. Turned out nice and it cost $62 for everything including the 1 ¼ pipe flange for the input shaft bearing. It needs to be ground out to 1.6 inches. http://www.alro.com/locations/locationsmain.aspx Click Image to view larger.
  2. How much overhang, outside the "V", do the iron straps have on top of the angle irons? Flush would be most stable, but I want to get under the gear too. Bru
  3. The R-154 transmission is in a 1987 Supra Turbo. Its basically a truck transmission like the R-150. Like the original article said, if you press off the input shaft bearing its ruined because you can only get a bite on the outer race. It's pictured that way in the Toyota shop manual. To press on the new bearing the only contact that is acceptable is the inner race. Since I don't have a special service tool kit from Toyota, I made a substitute using a 1 1/4" pipe flange with a high-rise for the screw in part (about 1/2"). I filed the threads away to get a diameter of 1.6 inches which was enough to clear the shaft and make contact with the inner race. Just be sure to support the flange edges with press plates or 2 notched out 2 x 4s on top of the press plates. Another tool l made to drive on the center and end bearings onto the output shaft involved using a 1 1/4 inch plumbing pipe pipe 18 inches long. The inner diameter is neary the 1.4 inches needed to do the job. I increased the inner diameter near the end using a grinding wheel that fit inside the pipe. This pipe is available at Lowes for about $10 ( see Feb 4 post below). You can put a pipe cap on the end or use a big socket to hammer on. Always wear eye protection when pounding on metal as chips can fly. Another trick is to use the old bearing as a tool by slightly increasing the hole diameter with a grinding wheel so that it slides over the shaft easily. Then use that as something to press or pound against the inner race to save the new bearing from damage when installing. Here is a link to Jack's Transmission in Colorado to see the inner workings of the R-154. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/r154-supra-5-speed-rebuild-process Bru
  4. In the article "How-to: Rebuilding a Jeep AX15 Transmission—Disassembly & Inspection" in the magazine, what are the dimensions of the angle iron that you used in the hydraulic press to remove and install bearings? I'm guessing 3" x 13" long and 1/4" thick from the photos? I'm rebuilding a R-154 Toyota transmission. Some of the techniques are similar. Miller makes a rectangular box shaped fixture but they want a whole bunch of money for it. (Miller tool 8227.) Bru
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