Moses Ludel

Check the 3rd gear thrust for wear indicated by a "step" at the non-contact surfaces. Same with the gear contact face. The thrust is as hard as the shaft and likely the same hardness as the case-hardened gear face. You may have the wrong 3rd gear synchronizer hub snap ring in place. If that ring does not fill the snap ring groove, the gear can show too much clearance at the thrust face. The synchro hub snap ring is a selective fit and may be the wrong (too narrow) ring. It must seat yet be snug in the groove. If there are no overt signs of wear at the thrust face or the gear face, and if the snap ring fills the hub gap completely with the hub seated all the way (see my rebuilding illustrations here), then there could be a mismatch of parts. When core parts get scattered and gathered, a rebuilt transmission can wind up with a mix of "high" and "low" tolerance parts, and this can produce errors. In your case, though, I'd first suspect an unseated or damaged synchro hub or an overly thin snap ring. If the issue is just the snap ring, you can source wider snap rings, using the original as your base and increasing the width to just fill the snap ring groove gap completely...Let us know what you find here. If you need the third gear thrust thickness measurement or snap ring available widths, let me know. I'll research numbers from Jeep and/or Toyota. Moses

DMD, welcome to the forums, and thanks for your topic...The device you see is a "Bench Mule" by Mark Williams Enterprises. Here is a direct link to the product: http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=990. I first used my Bench Mule for a book project, and it has been a valuable resource ever since. For transmission, axle, third member, steering gear and other service work, the device supports substantial weight and moves to a variety of positions for extraordinary access and ease of movement and parts handling. I've spun Spicer 44 complete axle housing and gear assemblies around on the Bench Mule—with my fingers! I have used my MW Bench Mule for complete Spicer/Dana Jeep axle builds and hefty transmission rebuilds like the iron Buick Dynaflow and Packard Ultramatic assemblies, transfer case rebuilding, smaller items like Saginaw steering gears and power pumps, and of course, manual transmissions like the AX15 you see in the illustrations. For photography and avoiding manual lifting, for convenience and durability, or for simplifying unit repairs, this device cannot be beat! Mark Williams originally designed the unit for 9-inch Ford racing axle third member/center section service. I would like to add that this innovative tool can ease and cut time on every kind of geartrain rebuilding chore for light-duty truck, Jeep and passenger car work. It will pay for itself quickly... My MW Bench Mule has been "tested" way beyond its design intent and still delivers the exceptional service it did well over a decade ago. Thanks, Mark Williams, for building such a versatile, quality tool! Any shop, whether a service garage or serious hobbyist, will discover that the MW Bench Mule can revolutionize automotive geartrain and other service work—and don't forget motorcycle and other OHV engine/transmission rebuilding! You will see this tool involved in transmission, axle, transfer case and steering gear work throughout the magazine's website articles and my Jeep Rebuilder's Manuals. Moses

Umm, interesting...The most notable difference, for me, with the stroker is the bottom end, low speed response. I did a lot of research with Tony Hewes on the tune for these engines, and ultimately narrowed the injector change for your 1998 (pre-coil-on-plug, you have the distributor) to a simple Ford 302 5.0L injector that can be found at a reasonable cost in rebuilt form. See my article on the 4.6L inline Jeep six-cylinder stroker motor tuning for more details, your performance gains would shift with the injector change, though you likely would not see any difference at lower speeds. Thanks for bringing up the crankshaft snout length issue. We mention the crankshaft snout length needs in the Tony Hewes video interviews, HESCO offers a special step-washer and longer hub bolt to bridge the length issue on longer snout crankshafts. Some opt for machining the snout to correct length for the serpentine belt pulley/damper. Very important is your compression ratio and camshaft choice. With the right choices here, the engine can develop more bottom end while saving fuel. What camshaft and compression ratio did your builder use? Many strive for mid-range to high rpm horsepower gains—frankly, I don't. The target with our recommended CompCams 252 grind camshaft is great power from an idle to 4200 rpm (will spin to 5000 rpm, just not making any more power), good fuel economy and strong bottom end torque...We hold to 8.7:1 compression and can readily run 87-octane fuel at our elevation (4400 feet). We can talk about this more...I'm curious about your camshaft choice. Moses

Hi, CJMall...I have some very interesting news regarding the nut in your illustration. After close research through all Mopar service references from 1989-99, it's clear that this is not a Jeep counter/cluster gear. All Jeep applications of the AX15 use a selective fit snap ring behind the 5th gear, not a nut. All Jeep/Mopar parts references to the AX15 transmission also show the use of a selective fit snap ring at this location, not a nut. The unit in my step-by-step, two part series on the AX-15 is early '90s, and I have a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler Mopar shop manual that also shows the snap ring use. I checked my Mopar TechAuthority subscriber info to see if 1999 uses a nut instead of a snap ring. Not so for Jeep AX15 transmissions. Here are two PDFs showing 1989 and 1999 parts layouts plus the entire 1999 Mopar parts listing for both the later AX5 and AX15 transmissions for those seeking genuine Mopar parts access for the later TJ Wrangler or XJ Cherokee: 1989 AX15 Countergear and 5th Snap Ring.pdf 5th Gear Snap Ring on AX15.pdf AX15 1999 Jeep Transmission Parts.pdf As for the nut being there in the first place, I looked further to provide an explanation. Your AX15 transmission is a "rebuilt" unit, and therefore subject to available parts from cores. Toyota uses the AX15 as the "150" transmission, and I went into my Toyota OEM shop manuals. In the 1993 Toyota T100 shop manual, I found the countershaft/cluster 5th gear end with a nut instead of a snap ring. You apparently have a Toyota transmission countershaft/cluster gear with the 5th gear hold nut. Toyota wants you to use a "hammer and chisel" to open up the staking in the nut. (If there are two stakes, the nut has been reused. The current stake in the shaft slot is the one you need to open.) I suggest making a narrow, wedge shaped pry tool from an old chisel. Shape the end to just fit into the shaft slot. With care, you can tap inward with a hammer, which will pry out the indented nut flange without damaging the machined slot. The Toyota torque figure for the re-torque after installation is 94 ft-lb or 127 N-m. Make sure you stake the nut flange into the slot after torqueing the nut. If the stake area of the flange is fresh, the nut often gets re-used. If you want to replace the nut, see your Toyota dealer and not the local Jeep dealership! Will all of this work together? If the gears and synchronizer assemblies are a matched set and all tolerances match with Jeep or Toyota figures, this can work. There are apparently interchange possibilities here, as your counter/cluster gear indicates. However, if tolerances, spacing, gear mesh, synchronizer parts alignment, gear alignment or other problems exist with this parts "mixing", you may have unearthed your shifting problem. Problems can occur even when mixing strictly used Jeep parts, so rely on actual measurements and the true fit/alignment of parts. Again, see my two-part article for details... Let us know how the Jeep-Toyota marriage works out. Check out the parts alignment between gears and positions on the shafts, gear backlash, synchronizer parts fit and for any signs of mismatched or misaligned pieces. Moses

The 2013 SEMA and AAPEX Shows are next week (November 4-8, 2013)...I will be covering these record size events at Las Vegas, Nevada. SEMA expects over 2500 exhibits, and AAPEX has grown, too. Estimated attendance will be 140,000 at SEMA! As usual, you can expect film highlights in HD video at the 4WD Mechanix HD Video Network. By mid-November, I will also have details on the testing of Hypertech's Stage 3 Max Energy engine programming on the magazine's 2005 Dodge/Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins diesel powered pickup. We just loaded that software in time for the SEMA Show and will have 1,200 miles of real world data to share when I return from Southern California and Las Vegas, Nevada! During the week of November 1st through the 8th, I'll be scurrying around and preoccupied with a roster of key meetings with sponsors and new product tours. I'll rejoin the forums discussion on the weekend of November 9th-10th. Trust that all of the members will enjoy sharing and discussions during the week I'm covering the SEMA/AAPEX Shows! I will follow the forums through Thursday, October 31st, updating and sharing... Moses

The steering gear and linkage are vital safety concerns—yet the pitman arm on a 4WD Jeep or other light 4x4 truck can easily be installed incorrectly. With the popularity of oversized tires and suspension lift kits, many pitman arms get replaced long before there is a parts wear issue. A dropped pitman arm is often part of a suspension lift kit, and the pitman arm on a new or relatively new vehicle may get replaced with a dropped arm. Here are some procedures that I use when installing a pitman arm: 1) Never turn the arm against either of the steering gear's extreme left or right turn positions. Force against the gear in these positions can damage the steering gear internal parts—the gear is not intended to absorb this kind of force at either end of the worm or ball nut's travel. I like to keep the steering gear and pitman arm close to the center or straight-ahead steering position during pitman arm removal and installation. 2) When removing the pitman arm nut on a typical steering gear, there is a lot of force required. It is easier on parts to use an air impact gun and socket to remove the nut, as there is less tendency for the pitman to rotate...If you have the steering gear removed from the vehicle, consider holding the arm in a large bench vise (with the gear assembly free) while loosening or tightening the nut. 3) Once the nut is removed, use the correct pitman arm puller tool to prevent damage to the steering shaft and other parts. Make sure the tool fits properly between the backside of the arm and the neck of the steering gear housing, with enough clearance to prevent damaging the housing/casting! 4) There is considerable force with the pitman arm secured on tapered splines, so use extreme caution with the puller tool. Once the initial tension relieves, the arm will come off readily. 5) Clean up the sector shaft splines as needed. It is critical that the new pitman arm fits properly, an interference fit that demands clean mating surfaces. If installing a powder coated aftermarket pitman arm, I always use a suitable drill motor-powered wire brush to remove the powder coating from the tapered seat and splines of the new pitman arm. (I remove paint here, too.) Don't damage or dull the spline teeth in the process! Warning: If you mate a powder-coated part at the splines, you will get a false torque reading. There is a high likelihood that the pitman arm will loosen at the splines as steering force wears through the powder coating. If you have a powder-coated arm already installed, and if the arm has been in service, re-check the nut torque with the pitman arm in the straight ahead steering position. 6) Always use the required torque wrench and socket to bring the sector/pitman nut to proper torque. Again, make sure the arm is near the straight ahead steering position to prevent damaging the steering gear. The torque required is high, especially on a recirculating ball-and-nut power gear, much more than on a light-duty vintage Jeep cam-and-lever gear! Do not second-guess the torque setting. Use a factory or professional shop manual to determine the correct torque for the pitman/sector nut on your steering gear. 7) When reattaching steering tie-rods, make sure they are clean and free of debris. If the outer end of the new pitman arm has a tapered seat with powder coating or paint, I use a drill motor-powered wire brush to remove the powder coating and take the tapered seat to bare metal. 8) Attach a clean tie-rod ball stud to the pitman arm tapered seat, using the correct type nut (typically castellated or flanged self-locking) that comes with the tie-rod end. Flanged, self-locking nuts are often one-time use only. Consult the factory workshop manual for recommendations on replacing fasteners or use of thread locking liquid. Always use OEM grade hardware and fasteners. 9) Align steering joints, adjusting sleeves and tie-rod ends so that the ball studs are on center with the steering linkage aligned. Make sure none of the joints bind or run out of travel over the full range of steering turn positions and angles. Make sure that parts do not interfere with each other. 10) I always recheck the torque on the pitman and tie-rod fasteners after a short time in service. This is a safety precaution that may catch a part requiring a slight re-torque. Again, this is all about safety. Use of oversized tires places an even bigger load on these parts... Moses

Wow, a trip down Memory Lane! Recall the 'Project Trials Machine' 1983 CJ-5 I did for OFF-ROAD in the 1990-91 era? It, too, was originally plagued by the Iron Duke and SR4, both of which vanished with a retrofit 4.2L inline six and NP435 4-speed upgrade...That Jeep CJ was a feature in my first and subsequent editions of the Jeep Owner's Bible. The real memory jog is your comment about the oil leaking main seals. I worked at a GMC Truck/Pontiac dealership as a line mechanic when the Iron Duke was a Pontiac and S-truck mainstay. That pushrod 2.5L was robust enough and had a rugged intrinsic design; however, G.M. could not get an OEM rear main seal to work and used a rope type replacement seal from the Stone Age as a warranty fix. Early S10 trucks and G.M. passenger cars flooded the dealerships, both within and out of warranty. I recall pulling rope main seals into position under warranty, much like working on a Stovebolt Chevy six or vintage GMC Jimmy six. Replacement with a lip type seal from that era was a total loss, as the oil retention slits on the crankshaft surface puked oil past the lip seal. (The rope seals wept oil at a lesser pace, until they got chewed up nicely by the slit surfaces!) G.M. had similar issues with the 2.8L/173 60-degree V-6, and we did our share of S/T truck main seals, too. I was unlucky enough to do this warranty work stint during the 1983-84 model years, which preceded the use of one-piece main seals and a bigger journal crankshaft on the 2.8L V-6. 1984-86 Jeep XJ Cherokee owners knew all about the 2.8L V-6 rear main seal leaks...and breaking crankshafts. Both of these engines, borrowed from G.M. by AMC for light Jeep models, reinvented themselves with newer rear main seal designs during the mid-'80s. The redesigned 2.8L/3.1L V-6 and rugged 151 and 181 (marine use) inline pushrod Iron Duke four-bangers lived on for years. Moses

Lifting a Grand is much like a J-truck pickup. The track bar is the wild card, curious to see if an aftermarket lift accounts for the track bar with a drop bracket or not. You'll likely get a dropped pitman arm with the kit. (See my new post on installing a pitman arm at the 'How-to Tips' forum.) Let us know what the lift kits include. 4" lift should get 33" tires under that vehicle, surely 32" tires. Consult with the lift kit makers. 33" would be fairly tall gearing with the stock 3.31 axle ratios, though the 360 V-8 might like the overdrive effect with that 727 3-speed automatic and no OEM overdrive. You'll have the usual driveline concerns and so forth. 2" of lift would accommodate 31" tires, I would think... When you've taken possession of this Grand Wagoneer, it would make a great unfolding project at the 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums Photo Gallery. Explore the Images and Modifications options for posting photos...It's easy and a good way to share your vehicle's transformation or restorative work. Moses

Like to see how this turns out...If adhesion is right, this can be the best long-term solution for a Jeep tub's protection and ease of maintenance/cleaning... Moses

Glad this material has come around...What are the safety precautions when using it? Trust you're using a respirator, at least... Moses

This sounds like a well-conceived trailer...Keep us posted, it sounds like a fun project and very functional when you're done, Jim! Moses

That is cool, Hobbs, I've always used the grease method with a close-fit shaft or even an old transmission input gear (pilot/nose end with the shaft shortened to serve as a driver). The wax makes sense: Less apt to find its way out and very dense—apparently less compressible from your description...Trust this one circulates, what a good idea! Moses

As Mopar likes to say, "Jeep is the most personalized vehicle in the World!" As for collectibles, there have been recent auction hints of purest restorations bringing value to a Jeep, and that's a plus. For years, the "value" was in the modifications and add-on components. Worth noting is that the Jeep models from their inception (MB) were the most cannibalized and parts mixed of any vehicle. This is largely due to their utility and continued worth as running "machines" or beasts of burden. I recall Arthur Warn's conversion kit to strip a WWII MB surplus vehicle to two-wheel drive for economy and ease of service! Eventually, his removable hub kit won out as a way to preserve 4WD yet have a bit less frictional loss and wear on the front drive system. With a side-driving Model 18 Spicer transfer case, good luck there... We're all in accord that some Jeep models are best left alone, generally very low production types or extraordinarily low mileage examples that are stone stock. A case in point, "ssgtandy" (Chad) just joined us and has found a 1991 Grand Wagoneer. If such a vehicle is in pristine, original equipment mode, I would keep it that way and be very faithful about OEM replacement parts and a restoration mindset... As for the CJ-3B's high hood, I can lose the F-head four any time, but there's ample room for a nice V-6 Buick there... Moses

Hi, Chad, and welcome to the forums! Lots of J-Wagoneer talk recently about donor axles for CJs in particular, would like to see some of these classic Jeep FSJ models stay intact ...Wife Donna still talks about the '87 Grand Wagoneer...If you plunge here, I'm ready to talk! The 1991 is classic J-truck stamina with a silky ride, having special cache as the "last" Grand...Check out the 229 transfer case and vacuum shift mechanism carefully, make sure the 4WD system works. Check the frame where the front track bar attaches, these brackets were vulnerable to cracking...The 360 V-8 is subject to the same scrutiny as any other engine, watch the oil pressure, though, it should be plenty high like any AMC engine; otherwise, suspect a worn timing cover, it doubles as the aluminum housing for the oil pump...Much to share, much to talk about here. Keep us posted, Chad! Moses

What are we missing? Let's reverse engineer a 1920 Dodge sedan! Glad you found the video/story interesting... Moses

Hobbs, thanks for qualifying...That makes sense and allays my concern, I'll no longer wonder whether chuffer pumped tires are rambling down the road with a perfect mixture of gasoline and air inside, just waiting for static electricity or enough road heat to ignite them! This does make perfect sense... Moses

I recall the spark plug pump, another yesteryear invention...Always puzzled over whether there's a way to filter the chuffer pump air, or are you stuck with inflating the tire with a nice mixture of fuel/air? This device works well on engines with accessible spark plugs, like your later CJ Jeep inline six. Imagine this chuffer device with a Liberty 3.7L V-6, a 4.7L V-8 in a Grand Cherokee or a JK Wrangler 3.6L Pentastar V-6 and their aluminum thread, barely accessible spark plugs! Time for a big, 12-volt powered pump in either of those cases! Have JK Wrangler owners given up on the York compressor conversion and other traditional, high volume, engine driven air supply solutions? What's popular currently? Anyone want to open a new topic/thread on this subject? Moses

At one point in the video, the vehicle is being rolled over by hand and onto its wheels—like a big pedal car! So, what's the formula for amazing traction in deep mud? Perhaps the light weight of the car (2245 pounds for the open touring car Model 30, perhaps heftier as a 4-door sedan) plus the small contact patch for the tires? There are many pounds-per-square inch on the tiny tread contact patch...Also, these wheels/tires are large diameter. They collect a lot of mud in the spokes, too! Here are the specs on a 1914-21 Dodge Model 30 (touring car, the 4-door sedan is likely heavier): http://www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/default.aspx?carID=17245&i=2 Any other ideas? This is actually worth a closer look, as the key to traction may lie in our distant automotive past! Moses

With our interest in traction and all things 4x4, you'll find this video both interesting and entertaining. It reminds us that "Cadillac Hill" on the Rubicon Trail was originally about touring cars and not lifted 4x4s with 37" tires: http://www.youtube.com/embed/nq2jY1trxqg?rel=0 Moses

Thanks for your enthusiasm around my books, Jim...I'm very pleased that we have these "forums" to share our common interests! Looking forward to the dialogue... Moses

Yea, another trailer guy! You, me and RareCJ8...Thanks for sharing, Jim...RareCJ8 will jump in, I'm sure! So will Biggman100... Moses

Like the flat fender models! My favorite is the CJ-3B...Had a CJ-3A, mostly a restoration approach. The MB/CJ-2A work, too! Moses

In the 'sixties through 'eighties, airing down was a sand wash or dry beach technique. I went over the Rubicon Trail many times without airing down, but as you know, that's granite and good traction. Airing down became a mantra and ritual by the late '80s. I would like to emphasize my time-honored concern over airing down: The tire's capacity to bear weight decreases with the lower pressures. For heavy vehicles, in particular, the fashionable "let's air down" can leave sidewalls and tire carcasses vulnerable to damage, belt separation and failure. On the other hand, the use of dramatically oversized tires, especially Load Range D and E one-ton truck equivalent tires on a trail Jeep, offers so much overkill in weight bearing capacity that airing down, within reason, is not much of a hazard. For a lighter weight vehicle, you still have excess load capacity, even with air pressures down. Everyone has an airing down opinion. Based strictly on tire stamina, I limit airing down to no less than 15 PSI in the extreme, preferably 18 PSI or higher. I don't drop below 15 (for sand) even with oversize tires, as the load on the sidewalls and mounting strips of the tires becomes perilous at lower pressures. Elaborate bead locks and other creative devices allow dropping pressure to the point of radical tire distortion. 18-20 PSI works for me. Moses

Hi, Jim, and welcome to the forum discussion! We have another owner of a later CJ (Hobbs) pursuing a Wagoneer front axle swap, so the conversation is well underway...See the other comments on the CJ-7 at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/216-dana-44-front-axle-swap-into-1985-jeep-cj-7/. We're working our way to a "blueprint" for using a D44 Wagoneer front axle in a late CJ, Hobbs is taking measurements and doing some parts assessment...Note the vintage axle he's using. The Grand Wagoneer drivelines will likely need fit/sizing, as the CJ-8 and the Grand are different wheelbases. You'll need to take measurements here. As for the A727 and, likely, a 229 transfer case (please confirm whether a 229 on the New Process tag at the rear of the transfer case), they should fit within the rails of a late CJ without much fanfare. Skid plate and other changes would be needed. These CJ frames accommodate the 999, as you know, and they even took on the Turbo 400 from '76-'79 with the B-W Quadratrac transfer case (big enough in both cases!). The 727 is not that much larger in outside dimensions than the 999 and certainly no bigger than a Turbo 400 G.M. unit. The drop on the transfer case, if you're using full Grand axle widths, should be feasible, too. Levers and such will need attention, though, and if a 229, the lever is under the driver's seat of the Grand, with vacuum controls remote mounted. Look this over, since you have the whole vehicle. Steering is forward of the axle, so if you position the axle properly and configure the linkage from the pitman to the steering knuckle, you could make this work. Doubt whether the stock Grand Wagoneer linkage will fit, as you note, Jim, the CL of the frames differ, and the steering gearboxes locate differently. Some photos would be helpful here, we can discuss what you're facing. Hobbs and lastCJ7 may want to add notes on the axle narrowing, typically cutting one side and having the axle shaft made. If your friend can do this machining and welding, all the merrier, though you need to be sure that the axle shaft splines get case hardened after the machining, which should be done with the shaft "normalized" before the spline cutting process. Normalizing makes the machining easier and saves tooling. The case hardening restores the shaft to OEM integrity and will prevent the splines from self-destructing—quickly. The spring perches and outboard spring mounts are all feasible, though this does require quality fabrication and welding. I'd prefer seeing spring perch widths that match the Grand's mounts. (You can rotate pinion shafts to a reasonable degree with steel caster wedges.) I like your use of the Grand's master cylinder, as it has the volume displacement intended for the Grand's brake calipers and drum wheel cylinders. You will likely use the Grand booster, make sure that the pedal linkage fits up properly, with the factory recommended amount of clearance between the linkage pieces. You want to be sure that the master cylinder's pistons retract fully with the pedal released! 3.73 gears would be okay if you had a D44 front axle for 3.73 parts. Used gears are dicey in any event. You have a three-speed automatic, so the tall 3.31 gears might be okay if you do not run tires over 33" diameter. Beyond that, I'd be looking for 3.73 or 4.10 gears—new. Any lower (numerically higher) gearing, and the engine will wind itself out on the highway without an overdrive. #10, the mystery question: Why are you considering the Grand Wagoneer transfer case when your CJ-8 has the helically cut gear, bulletproof Dana 300 now? I can see the 727 Torqueflite and 360 V-8 idea. Perhaps a call to Advance Adapters could come up with a simpler 727 to Dana 300 mate-up solution: 1-800-350-2223. I do understand the D44 front axle idea with a 360 V-8. Perhaps the correct year axle, narrowed and with correct drop for a CJ transfer case, would suffice? Unless you plan 37" diameter tires, the stock rear axle and a narrowed, correct drop 44 for the front would be more than ample for a two-barrel carbureted 360 V-8... My view, here for more discussion. I'd like to hear what others have to say about this approach. Thanks for joining us, Jim! Moses

We did have a fun and engaged 4x4 community in the '80 and '90s...Do recall this question, I enjoyed troubleshooting and drilling down in the parts sources, using cross-reference manuals and all...That was ground school for the Bentley books... A friend introduced me to Granville King's daughter, she's now at the Reno Area. I suggested we do an interview, she has myriad stories about the days with Granville, Mexico, the desert and all. There's a unique story here. You've maintained your keen interest in Jeep, too. Wonder how many of us are still out there 'wheeling from that period? Moses