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About hobbs

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  1. High hoods are actually cool, I think Mahindra may even still be making them. My previous Jeep was an 81 CJ-8, and I have never regretted selling a vehicle as much. I did resto-mod it. Also a TBI V8, 305 in this case. Also an NV4500 (Dodge version on this one). I would have kept it stock if it were a 258 / T-176 combination, but sadly is was an "Iron Duke / SR-4". I'll give the Iron Duke one thing, its pretty robust. Mine leaked so bad I once ran it out of oil to the point that the lifters started banging. Serviced it and it ran again. Now the SR-4...no up side to that thing.
  2. Its a roll-on product, not too bad as far as vapors. I did underestimate how long prep would take. So prep is done, I guess rolling it will be next weekend...
  3. I have one tip that someone showed my 30 years ago and it has never failed me. Trying to get the bronze pilot bushing out of the crank shaft bore. Everybody knows the trick of packing grease in the bore and using some sort of drift to get the grease to hydraulically force the bushing out. The problem...it doesn't work unless the drift is almost a press fit, the grease just squirts by. Try this: a candle. Break the candle up and put the pieces in the bore and use the same method. The drift still needs to be a good fit, but not perfect. You will be shocked to see that bushing almost
  4. I have to say that I hate to see an unmodified flattie get changed. I love to modify my CJs but uncut, stock originals are hard to find. The combination of being beat to death on farms or other industrial use removed many from circulation. The ease with which they are modified took a huge percentage away from stock. Plus, sadly, for as tough as they were, they are really very flimsy as far as rust. (The rust problem lasted all the way through the end of the CJ and beyond.) I kinda agonized with my current 85 CJ-7. I bought it from the original owner, zero rust and stone stock. Restorin
  5. This weekend is dedicated to installing the rest of the Monsta-Liner interior. I have to say, for a do-it-yourself liner it comes out nearly as nice as Rhino lining does, for 20% the cost (but a lot of work). Much better than first generation stuff like Hurculiner, which really isn't very impressive.
  6. There has to be something fairly solid at the bottom of that mud for those pizza cutters to be bearing on, even in that bouncing out-of-control way. Very interesting. Definately a brave driver in a few areas.
  7. The spark plug pump only uses engine compression to drive a little diaphram. It actually pumps clean air, and pretty quickly. Makes a racket though, banging away with each compression stroke. Burned fingers are not worth it, it's just a conversation piece, although does work if needed.
  8. I never have done much airing down except at places like Pismo. Basically I'm too lazy. Anybody else have a "chuffer" pump? Spark plug pump...it actually works pretty well, but newer fangled engines probably don't like running with a plug removed. I use it as a novelty to get people talking once in a while.
  9. I do remember at least one of the questions. I was putting a Buick V6 to a T-18 in my 80 CJ-7. I couldn't get the clutch to work right, it would either not fully disengage (hard to shift) or if adjusted to fully disengage, the throw out bearing would stay in contact with the disk and spin forever. You noted I had one of the Skylark bellhousings, with a reverse acting (forward throw) release arm. You suggested finding a standard rear-operating assembly as they required less throw. I finally found one and it worked! Many Moons ago. You and Granville King were my Jeep heros back then...
  10. The shackle reversal is the MORE weld in unit. Very nice stuff. The only tricky part is getting the 1 1/4" (as I recall) hole drilled straight through the frame. I pretty well achieved that, had to use an observer to stand back a bit and eyeball that the drill was straight.
  11. Thanks for all the input Moses, and everybody else. I actually used to have a 1956 CJ-5 that did have the factory M-38A1 style "reversed" front shackles. Moses, I'm sure you don't remember it, but I actually wrote you a couple letters back in your "Holy Moses" (that's right isn't it?) days for "Off-Road" magazine. You answered both and I remember thumbing through the magazine at a book store and thinking "man this guy has the same exact problem I have!" I still have the magazine. I will investigate the adapters, that would definately be easier, I'm an old dog, but I can learn new trick
  12. Spacers would sure be easy. Easy just never seems right... I will investigate it though. Over the next couple weekends I am going to play with the Waggy D44 and the Ford outers I have and see if they are compatible. Sounds like a worthwhile way to spend a weekend...
  13. I worry about the leverage caused by spacers with large rubber. I had thought about it, but I think the spacers are more in line with getting those oversized tires on some of the current street car looks.
  14. Moses, I did a shackle reversal, not a SOA. In road driving I haven't seen much difference in how it handles vs. the stock spring configuration, but haven't tried it off-road yet. I'm going to try to take the route of "big tires little lift". I want to trim away as much of the rear wheel opening as possible (to still look like a Jeep not a buggy) ands see if I can get 35 or 37's in there. Upgraded axles will be called for with this size rubber, a 4:1 kit and a 6.3:1 1st gear...
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