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About CJMall

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  1. I measured the tolerances of my gears and came up with 1st-0.004", 2nd-0.008", and 3rd-0.013". The third is a little out of spec. Is it usually the gear or the fixed thrust washer that wears and needs replaced? CJMall
  2. I had the same deliberation as WMCCALL this summer. I decided to go with the stroker build so that I wouldn't hate myself later for not spending the few extra bucks later on. I only drove mine for a few months before I did some other work to my Jeep which has left it with limited driveability for awhile. Here was my impression of it in that time. The first drive of it is pretty disappointing. Driving around town in the lower RPMs it is essentially the same as the stock 4.0. Don't expect a beast of an engine. I opted to stay with the stock injectors, but I was surprised that my mileage stayed the same. For some reason I was thinking more displacement = more gas consumption. Talked with the machinist that did my work and he said putting a larger injectors, a big bore throttle body, and re-sizing your valves adds another bit of power across the RPM band. I just didn't want to add another $700-1000 for that at the time. It ran fine on 87 fuel. I was advised to use 91 once it got cold out though. When I noticed the difference is when I got my engine up in the 4-5K RPM range. Given the only times I get there is hopping over an object on a trail, a hill climb, or trying to spin the tires, I notice quite a bit of difference in the higher RPMs. I could run up and through things that before would bog my engine down to the point of almost stalling before. My machinist did my stroker for about $700 more than a standard rebuild with a bore out would have cost. That extra money was for the crank, a little extra machine work, and rebuilding my heads with stronger springs. If you do decide to go this route, make sure your machinist shortens the nose of your crank or machines you a spacer. This caused me problems when my machinist forgot to mention that and I noticed that the harmonic balancer wasn't lining up. The 258 crank nose is about 1cm too long. I've had second thoughts about doing the stroker build, but with some more upgrades I will get some extra power to play with and have all my stock equipment (including the a/c I installed before the rebuild) work with the engine I built. If you don't care about having your stock equipment work and are just on the hunt for more power I would go for the SBC conversion. I look forward to doing one of those one day, but the one I built spends a lot of miles in town too. CJMall
  3. Moses, I have finally found the time to break my AX15 down. I have ran into a snag. On my transmission the clip outside the 5th gear spacer is a nut with a crimp in it (see attached picture). How do you back this nut up to remove it? Do I have to cut some notches in the nut to relieve the two crimps before removing it? Also, what do I torque this to once I begin to reassemble? Thanks for your help. CJMall
  4. I just changed the 5w-30 I had in my transmission over to some Redline MT-90. I have only driven it 20-30 miles since, but this new oil has made the symptoms worse. I can no longer shift into 2nd and 4th at lower RPMs. I am getting some gear grinding now as well. I will be removing the transmission to check the gear hubs once I have time. I want to check the other hard parts now to make sure this company didn't give me any other junk that will shorten the life of my AX15.
  5. Moses, my clutch still feels to engage at the correct point, and I fully depress it with each shift. I do not suspect it to be the culprit part. I just ordered a gallon of MT-90 transmission lube. I will post once I have a chance to put a few miles on it after the oil change.
  6. Moses, I have no lift on my jeep. I could have sworn that I checked the clearance of my shifter when I reinstalled the new transmission. I will remove the console and check today. Wouldn't I have the same problems in reverse if this were the case? Thanks for both of your input. I have no clearance issues between my shifter and the floor. I just did a test drive to notice this and discovered something. The problem only happens at high RPMs. It shifts fine if I'm shifting early at lower RPMs. Could this still relate back to a oil problem and the synchros not grabbing properly or should I drop this tranny out and tear it apart to see if the gear hubs and synchros are not mating well enough to cause the braking action?
  7. biggman100 I have a new prothane trans mount on this application. My skid plate has taken some abuse, but when I had it off I checked that everything was square and not out of alignment. Is this issue associated with the shifter coming in contact with the floor pan as Moses described earlier?
  8. I have recently installed a rebuilt AX15 in my 98 TJ. From the beginning it has been difficult to shift into 2nd and 4th gears. By difficult I mean it requires some strength to pull to engage as if there is a bungee cord opposing the direction I'm pulling. It will engage each time and does not have any noises associated with these shifts. It occurs only while shifting up into these gears. It shifts into all others fine and down shifts into them fine as well. If I have shifted into one of the gears I can shift back into it with no difficulty if I down/up shift momentarily the shift back. The shop I got it from is blaming it on the fact that I used 75W-90 oil at first. They recommended I switch to 5W-30 synthetic and change the oil a couple times to get the gear oil off the syncros. I have since done so with no effect. The local mopar dealer mechanic thinks it is a bent shift rail or fork. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I want to know if it will break in and get better or if I need to tear it down and inspect the parts for bends?
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