Moses Ludel

Yea, one down, just the Air Bag light to go! Glad this worked out, JJ_Jeep... Moses

The airbag system is a safety issue. The consequences of a malfunctioning bag or the unexpected deployment of a bag is a serious matter, and the mere thought makes us nervous. Since the Air Bag system can be scanned, that would be a consideration. There are other possibilities, but a specific air bag light signal is a concern. I recently did two repairs on the '99 XJ Cherokee, one related to instrumentation/gauges, the other related to the heater and A/C vent controls. The instrumentation issue was wiring behind the panel and plug connections. For both of these malfunctions, there were factory TSBs from Chrysler, and the instrument panel issue was common to the 1998/99 era XJ Cherokee and the TJ Wrangler. I mention this because on my XJ, the Air Bag light was part of that malfunction. See the how-to repair at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html. I bring this up because your Air Bag issue could be a plug connection issue at the panel. The simplest fix I found online is to unplug and plug the panel at its connectors. When this does not suffice, the repair in the article was my solution. Check this out, JJ, it's certainly a possibility. I'd try the unplug/plug approach first, changing out of the plug gets involved. Always disconnect the battery negative cable with this kind of work. The other TSB was about actuator motors for the heater and A/C vents. I covered this quite thoroughly in another article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html. This one got interesting. As it turned out, the actuators were just fine (bought a vacuum motor beforehand, now have a spare), but the vacuum circuits were not. See this article, as your TJ has a similar system, and my quick troubleshooting technique for a full circuit vacuum check works well. The A/C vents, cruise control and other circuits all depend upon the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper. You'll see the relationship at the article. As a point of interest, the vacuum leak was in damaged tubing not far from the battery box. The vacuum circuit leak test will require a hand vacuum pump, which is a valuable diagnostic/troubleshooting asset. Follow my guideline, you have a similar system and access to the vacuum tube that attaches at the intake manifold. The cruise control apply vacuum can also be tested with your vacuum gauge, using the running engine as a vacuum source. So, the Air Bag light could be just that: A wacky Air Bag light from poor instrument panel connections. Or, you could have more going on...We're back to the need for a diagnostic scan tool that covers powertrain, ABS and, yes, Air Bags! Moses

BA, sorry to hear about the metering jet, which is not available in a kit and would be difficult to locate as an individual part. If that jet is still securely in its threads, and if the bore and flute of the jet is not distorted (just the screw slot is twisted up), leave the jet in position. Smooth out the distorted brass screw slot material so it will not slough into the bore or elsewhere in the passageways. You'll need to make sure there is no debris in the fuel circuit for the jet: Use compressed air or a vacuum, or both. Ironically, one of the least risky ways to loosen a brass jet is with an impact screwdriver. Without sounding like a shill for Harbor Freight once more, they happen to have an inexpensive driver, commonly used on motorcycle case screws that are notorious for stripping out their heads, especially the Phillips variety. Here is the example: http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html. The impact screwdriver bit's shank must be long enough to clear the float bowl body. This tool drives downward while rotating at the same time. Downward pressure results in a slight relief of the screw (jet in your case) tension in its threads while rotational force applies simultaneously—ingenious, really. There's no guarantee that this would prevent twisting the soft brass slot out, but you might have a better chance at success. If you try this, experiment with various levels of hammer force, beginning with the lightest and finding the one that just works. The tool is reversible for removing or tightening fasteners, and it accepts sockets, too. In this jet's case, sounds best to leave well enough alone if you can, you may not be able to find a replacement jet readily. The ding atop the float should not affect anything, as long as the float can be set accurately for height and drop. The concern with the float adjustment is strictly the position of the needle in its seat with the float at various positions. From what you describe, as long as the float can float in gasoline and will not leak, it can move the needle in and out of the seat and set the fuel height properly in the fuel bowl. Talking about the replaceable seat, if you want to avoid brass screw slot issues here, make sure you to use a screwdriver big enough to fill the slot's width and shoulders. This will be least likely to damage the new seat during installation. I like the Mopar and Echlin kits for both their quality and the details in the instructions. If the Walker parts look decent, and the instructions are sufficient (we can supplement from my library if necessary), you should be okay. If you can, share/attach a photo of the damaged jet, I'd like to assess its condition. Moses

JJ_Jeep, this is very helpful, being more specific about actual work. In looking over your list, it also occurred to me that there must be proper instruction provided for each of these tasks, otherwise the difficulty rating is irrelevant. The outcome requires that each job will be performed properly, and I'll illustrate what I mean, using your graduated difficulty tasks as an example. I'll touch on the tool requirements and how I would rank the task if the instructions and how-to steps were thorough and the right tools available. Any rating will be relative to the quality and scope of the instructions. Using your list and the 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler as an example: Air filter change—This can be a simple job, a #1 in difficulty, if you don't get debris into the vulnerable engine side of the filter, you seat the filter properly, and the filter seals when you snap the air box top into place. Tools: Clean, debris-free hands. Rotate tires—Also a #1 difficulty level job if you use chocks on flat ground and the vehicle does not roll away, the jack is secure and you use safety stands placed properly, and the vehicle does not fall to the ground or cause physical injury, you don't damage a brake caliper trying to put a front wheel/tire into place, you center up each wheel before installing the wheel nuts, you don't strip a nut and stud, you bring the wheel nuts up in cross and even steps, you tighten the nuts evenly and securely to the required torque listed in your owner's manual or, if you have a four-way hand wrench or the generally pathetic OEM nut wrench and know the significance of torque and can make a safe judgment call on properly and adequately tightening the nuts, you can verify later with your torque wrench, and you don't over-tighten a nut and either snap off a wheel stud or scarf out the nut seat in the wheel rim. Use proper sockets, extension, breaker bar, ratchet or 4-way, and verify torque with an accurate torque wrench. Replace headlight—Also a #1 difficulty level if you can remove the headlamp trim ring properly, know which screws to loosen when removing the lamp hold down ring (not accidentally turning the lamp angle adjuster screws and rendering the headlamp out of adjustment when you finish), you unplug and plug the old and new headlamp properly and make sure the wires go back through the lamp bucket without a sharp metal edge pressing against the wire insulation, you place the lamp hold down ring squarely on the new lamp and make sure the lamp seats into its locating notch properly, and you secure hardware, tightly enough to stay secure yet not too tight where you'll strip the screw threads. Proper tools include various screw drivers or Torx bits on a Jeep. Battery Change—Also could be a #1 difficulty level if you remove the negative terminal first, then the positive terminal, you note the routing of wires as you detach them, you unclamp the old battery and make sure it's loose before lifting it out, you wear protective gloves when handling the battery and avoid carrying the battery against your new denim jeans when you walk away from the Jeep, you place the new battery in the case squarely and clamp it securely, you attach the positive terminal first and secure the nut without stripping it or breaking the soft terminal end, you attach the negative terminal last and make sure you secure it properly so that both terminal ends are tightly clamped to the posts. Use a box ended wrench for the terminal nuts, ratchet/extension/socket to reach the battery clamp bolt if a side clamp or to loosen the nuts atop the J-bolts if there is a battery top hold down frame. Oil/filter change—This could be a #1 difficulty if you don't strip the drain plug during installation and make sure it's secured to the proper torque so it doesn't loosen and fall out on the interstate or a remote trail; the filter can be a messy job, you must make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the filter and the new filter has a clean gasket with a thin film of fresh oil on the gasket, the filter stand must be clean, no risk of debris finding its way into the exposed opening with the filter removed, you must keep the filter clean where it faces the block; priming the filter is always a good idea, as 95% of bearing wear is at startup and a dry oil filter adds to the problem, priming must be done with clean oil in the filter and just enough oil so that when you bring the filter to the engine mounting stand on an angle, the oil does not run out of the filter, the filter must be secure against the block to prevent leaks and loosening, some high performance filters like a K&N actually require a specific torque setting to prevent the filter from falling off in service. Tools include a socket and ratchet for the drain plug and a sensible filter wrench that will not collapse an overly tight oil filter canister and leave you struggling to remove the oil filter with a drift punch and hammer. Flush/Fill coolant—A difficulty level #1 if you loosen the drain cock and install it carefully, you fill the system with the right mix of anti-freeze coolant (not too much and not too little anti-freeze protection) to the top of the radiator neck, then fill the reservoir to at least the COLD line, then run the engine with the cap on the radiator securely to remove air blocks and circulate coolant, including opening the heater flow, allowing the engine to reach operating temperature then running a few minutes more with the thermostat open, then letting the engine cool down completely with the cap still installed to siphon coolant from the radiator overflow reservoir, then top the reservoir to the COLD line again with coolant and do this check once more. Tools required are a pliers and ratchet/sockets/extensions and a torque wrench if you also change the thermostat, making sure the new thermostat seats properly, in the correct direction, bolts have sealant on bolt threads tightened to proper torque, gasket is new and seated properly. Replace serpentine belt—Could be a difficulty #1 level if the belt gets routed properly and fits the grooves to prevent chewing up a new belt, you tension the belt properly to prevent slippage (loose) or knocking out your alternator, water pump or power steering pump bearings (over-tightened belt), you secure all hardware to proper torque specifications. Tools are a ratchet, sockets, pry bar, and good sense not to pry against fragile parts or the power steering reservoir housing when tensioning the belt. Tune up (new plugs, wires, cap, rotor)—Could be a difficulty #2 level if you remove and install the spark plugs without stripping a spark plug thread or, worse yet, the cylinder head threads, you use a torque wrench to secure the plugs to proper torque, you gap or at least confirm the plug gaps before installing them, you do not rip a plug wire (intended for reuse) out of its insulator by pulling on the wire instead of the insulator with an insulator pliers, you snap the new plug wires onto each plug securely, you remove and install the cap and rotor making sure the rotor seats in its notch on the distributor shaft and the cap seats squarely in its notch before tightening the cap screws, you remove and install wires individually to make sure each wire routes to the correct spark plug, and you secure wires in the clips just as Jeep intended. Tools are a ratchet, extension, screw drivers, plug socket (insulated type), a 3/8" drive torque wrench, spark plug insulator pliers if you're reusing the wires, plug gap tool to check or adjust plug gaps. Replace alternator—This might be a difficulty level #2 if you can reach the hardware with your sockets, ratchet and extension, you handle the wire insulators with care, you do not over-tighten small hardware and strip terminal threads, you align and adjust the belt properly, and you re-tension the belt to specification. Don't forget to disconnect the battery negative cable while all this is going on...You need a torque wrench, pry bar and torque specifications for hardware. Replace power steering pump—Same precautions as the alternator and this could be a difficulty level #2 if you don't pry against the fluid reservoir, make sure you use proper flare nut wrenches on hose fittings to prevent rounding nut corners, you secure fittings squarely and properly, you fill the reservoir with clean power steering fluid and prevent any debris from entering the system when fittings, hoses or other parts are open to the atmosphere. Debris in the steering gear will ruin delicate parts. Re-check fluid after operating the gear in both directions. Change transfer case fluid (special fluid transfer tool helpful)—Definitely a difficulty level #1 as long as you don't strip the aluminum threads on the transfer case when installing the plugs, you secure the plugs to proper torque specifications, you use the correct tools for the drain and fill plugs and you do not get debris inside the transfer case. Use correct fluid here. If factory recommended, use the correct sealant on plugs and do not allow excess sealant to slough into the transfer case, it will clog the pump pickup screen. Change Manual Trans fluid (special fluid transfer tool helpful)—similar to and essentially the same precautions as the transfer case, use the correct tools, and as JJ mentions, a fluid pump to prevent spilling the expensive new gear lube everywhere. If plugs are secure and the fluid level is correct to the factory fill point, this is a difficulty level #1—a plug falling out of the transmission case or leaking, or a low fluid level on the refill, could result in expensive parts damage, dropping this to a level #4-10 project. Change Diff Fluid (special fluid transfer tool helpful)—Same as manual transmission, here you have a diff cover gasket, seal or RTV sealant to address. Avoid excessive use of RTV, make the sealant bead as described on the product or in your Jeep shop manual, keep all areas and parts clean, and fill the axle/diff properly (allowing for that lift kit rear pinion tilt and all of that stuff). This could be a difficulty level #1-2, however, if the diff leaks or the fluid level is off, if you strip the diff cover bolts or over-tighten them and warp the diff cover, this deteriorates to a level #4-#10. Install car stereo—This could start out as a level #2-3 difficulty unless you misroute wires, pinch wires, short out wires, forget to disconnect the battery negative cable before starting the job, break the plastic dash trim, make poor wiring connections that loosen and short later, use solder connections but don't know how to solder, and the wires loosen and short to ground, you forget to fuse the circuits and a subsequent short burns out yards of wiring. In such cases, difficulty level increases to #4-10. A simple, direct retrofit stereo could be considered a #2 difficulty level with care applied to removing dash trim and routing wires safely. Replace a fuel injector—JJ_Jeep did this by the book and had little difficulty, and a level #2-3 difficulty would be possible. If you break insulators or wire plug connectors, damage other injectors, nick an O-ring or fail to secure and seal all of the injectors, this would be more difficult. If you need to detach any clip-on fuel hoses, use the correct hose release tools, or this job will rapidly deteriorate to a #4-10 level. Replace steering gear (Pitman puller and 16" crescent wrench*)—The pitman arm replacement is enough of an issue for me to do a specific topic or how-to article on it. Installing a pitman requires the puller JJ_Jeep describes plus knowledge of how not to damage a steering gear. This could be a difficulty level #2-3 if you hold the pitman arm in a heavy vise while installing the gear off the vehicle. Gear on or off the vehicle, the pitman arm should never be forced against its extreme left or right turning position when tightening or loosening the pitman nut. This will damage the internal gear parts...I set the pitman arm and gear on center for this chore and use either the vise approach (gear off the vehicle) or, when the gear is on the vehicle, with wheels/tires on the ground and pointed straight ahead to prevent the pitman arm from moving toward its extremes. Never lock the steering column to hold the gear on center during this procedure, or you can damage the steering column locking mechanism when you torque the pitman nut! If you follow these precautions and use a heavy duty torque wrench with large socket, and keep the pitman arm close to center position while tightening the nut, you'll keep this task to a level #2-3. Neglect these steps, and the resulting damage will raise the bar to a #4-10. *Caution to JJ_Jeep: I would recheck that pitman nut torque with the gear on center, wheels on the ground and weighted, and the steering column unlocked. It's unclear whether a 16" Crescent wrench can achieve the required 185 ft. lbs. torque (1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler factory Mopar service manual specification). I use an air gun that will hit an accurately predictable 160-180 ft. lbs. torque to seat the arm and nut, then I complete and verify torque with my 0-250 ft. lbs. torque wrench. Please do a re-check, JJ. My point here is simple. I could go through the pending projects in similar fashion and throw ratings at each. The ratings are only meaningful if the instructions are detailed enough to eliminate the safety hazards, risks and pitfalls, those factors that would be unknowns to an inexperienced mechanic or anyone doing a particular project for the first time. From this exercise, one thing is clear to me: If we use a rating system, we also need to be thorough in describing all tasks involved and any known pitfalls, challenges, safety cues or projected issues. Also worth mentioning is that we each have expertise in one area, maybe lesser skills or interest elsewhere. Whether the grading is a numbering system or images like wrenches (a good idea, visually), this should also imply that the skill rating is by someone who has already performed the specific task, on this type vehicle or equipment, or at least has a professional sense for the project at hand and access to factory service manuals for details and specifications. We're getting somewhere...This is a good discussion, and thanks, JJ_Jeep, for moving the process forward! Moses

Agreed, biggman100, bead breaking with either a Hi-Lift jack or bumper jack can be dicey. Angles are critical, this is a balancing act, and the wheel/tire assembly wants to flip upright or slip from beneath the jack's foot. The wheel/tire needs to stay parallel with the ground and kept safely there for the jack foot to work. I wedged a tire edge against the Jeep's rear tire tread (at the ground) and angled the Hi-Lift's foot toward the opposite sidewall's bead and the rim. It was a juggling act to find the correct jack angle and apply the right pressure. I'll demonstrate this if helpful. RareCJ8, with his beefy off-road trailer and room for spare wheel/tire assemblies might ask the question: What are we doing this for? In my case, we had picked up a nail at an old mine site, mounted the only spare tire and were in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire for a spare. Good reason to carry two spares at remote desert? I'd like to try the "hand" approach, using the Hi-Lift strictly to hold down the center of the rim...I'll also fiddle with my Harbor Freight tire changer, I've only used it for motorcycle tires with the available adapter...The pedestal floor brackets are not the beefiest, and Joe Mac has a point about supporting a big tire. Here's the Harbor Freight listing for the changer, they claim tire sizes 8" to "light truck" tires, including flotation type: http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-tire-changer-69686.html. Note that to break the bead, the changer should be on the floor, as the tire/wheel rests on the lower floor brace, parallel to the floor/ground. See biggman100's initial topic post for illustrations of the tire changer and bead breaking with this changer. Note: My idea of a hitch receiver mount for the changer would require that the receiver tube be welded or pinned far enough up the side of the changer's post to place the floor braces at the ground level when the changer is attached to the receiver hitch. While at the Harbor Freight site, I also discovered this simple home or small shop bead breaker that might work well in the field if you have a trailer or pickup bed to tote it around: http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html. This equipment breaks down for storage, and before we "reinvent the wheel", these two pieces of equipment might be worth a look. Harbor Freight and other tool suppliers have a variety of home, field service and small shop tire tools. Let's continue the discussion, flat tires can be a real issue in the middle of nowhere. Others with thoughts? Join us. Moses

Good points, Joe Mac...First, we'd need to assume that you're on the trail with a trailer like RareCJ8's setup or have a pickup bed and the load/space capacity for stowing this tool. It would not be left on the receiver when driving on- or off-highway! It might be a trailside tool for extreme destination four-wheeling, likely carried by the support vehicle in a 4x4 caravan. Your comment about breaking a bead on a big off-road tire is also well taken. It remains to be seen whether this tool is up for that task, but here's a thought: I've broken beads with a Hi-Lift jack and great care, using the vehicle's bumper as the ratcheting arm point and the jack's foot against the tire's sidewall on the ground. This is very tricky, and keeping the wheel/tire flat is the challenge. You must protect both the tire and the wheel rim in the process. I'm old enough to know how to break apart a tire with a tire pick/hammer and hand spoons, too. In the day ('sixties to early 'eighties), I worked with split rim wheels and tires plenty, all work done by hand with rubber soap solution, hefty tire hammers and bars. This works, too, if you know what you're doing. In the case of split rims, if you don't know what you're doing, like the need to place the assembled wheel and tire under the lube room's chassis hoist arms or inside a safety tire cage during inflation, you can, literally, lose part of your head if a split rim's locking ring dislodges and blows off while you apply air pressure! Many severe, permanent injuries and deaths have been caused by split rim accidents. So, this said, you could dismount a tire from a modern one-piece, drop center wheel rim and remount the tire using the right hand tools. I found a standalone bead breaker at the Harbor Freight website that could work in the field if you have the space to tote it around: http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html. Add to the bead breaker a pair of tire bead spoons for automotive size tires, some liquid dish detergent and clean water for making a solution of bead rubber "lube". Find a clean granite or basaltic rock slab alongside the trail. Photo courtesy of Harbor Freight, see the Harbor Freight website for further details. . Once you break the beads down, you could place a Hi-Lift jack between the vehicle's bumper and the center of the wheel rim and use just enough pressure to hold the wheel/tire assembly flat against the ground. The tire can be disassembled with the spoons, using the rim's drop center for clearance and to prevent bead damage. After assembly, a tubeless tire needs a tire rim band (inflatable type works well, there are also quick-release straps) to pinch the tire's tread circumference and spread the beads for seating. Seating beads requires an air compressor with an air tank reservoir and good air volume to pop the tire beads evenly onto the rim! You may need to raise the bottom of the rim from the ground with a block of wood or similar spacer to allow room for both sidewalls to seat...or if the beads are evenly spread, try standing the tire on its tread while applying air. In either case, release the band strap as soon as the tire beads seal air and the tire begins to inflate. If there's enough interest, I'd pursue an HD video how-to of this process. I think this can be done on the trail with a minimal amount of equipment: the tools mentioned plus a kit with both tire puncture and carcass repair patches. A tire tube of the correct size could also be an emergency backup if the valve stem will fit through the rim hole. If just a nail hole on a tubeless tire, a cord or plug repair, without dismounting the tire, can get you home. This is not my idea of a permanent fix, and I would likely make this either a spare tire or toss the tire out when back at civilization...Filing steel belt material and pushing a cord tool or plug through the tire's carcass can damage the structure and integrity of the tire's steel and other plies. Moses

We're in accord here, Joe Mac. I did not go into detail about the load-leveling ability of the distribution/equalizing hitch. Following up on Joe Mac's comments, the hitch can place a heavy load over all of the truck and trailer axles and nearly level the tow vehicle. You set the tow vehicle's chassis height with the torsion bar tension at the equalizing/load distributing hitch. Note: Case in point, I like a slight drop at the rear bumper. I measure the front and rear bumper heights of the Ram without a load. With the loaded trailer attached, I carefully adjust the torsion bars to achieve reasonable weight on the ball. (I know where my 3500 truck sets with a 400#-500# load in the bed and use this as my criterion.) My formula is to stay within the platform hitch rating. I adjust the torsion bars to achieve an approximate ball weight of no more than the platform hitch's rating without an equalizing device. In other words, I want the ball load to stay at or below the ball load rating when there is no equalizing hitch involved. This drops the rear bumper around 1/2" or so, depending upon the cargo load, which assures even braking, helps eliminate forward pitch on braking and still keeps normal headlight height...There will be a correct bumper height setting for your truck's spring rates and the loaded trailer weight. As Joe Mac importantly describes, there are limits to the spring capacity, and the load distributing hitch cannot become the "solution" for weak or underrated springs on the tow vehicle. In the case of our Dodge Ram 3500, the spring capacity is extraordinary for trailering. I can load distribute with the equalizing hitch when pulling a 7,500# to 9900# load and barely impact the rear springs. It's also worth noting that the hitch and load distributing equipment must be designed for leveling the loads you pull. The hitch, vehicle frame and hardware must also match for strength. This involves design integrity and goes back to my premise that the truck itself must be up for the task, the reason I bought a 3500 SRW instead of a 2500. The heaviest load I've pulled has been the car hauling trailer loaded with a 4310 John Deere diesel compact tractor, front end loader and scraper box plus a bunch of shop tools on board. This was a hefty and critical load, and my responsibility went beyond preserving our truck and the cargo. It also involved all of the other folks on the highway that rely on the integrity of my tow equipment and driving skills. Equipment includes trailer brakes, the brake controller set properly and routine wheel bearing service on the trailer... As for shocks, of course I use heavy duty types and recommend them, typically gas charged as with the Mopar lift kit. On the other hand, shocks buffer the coil or leaf spring oscillations, they do not bear significant weight. Ultimately, its comes back to frame and spring integrity, spring load ratings and the truck's fundamental design. Moses

These two trucks struck a cord for me, SramblingMan! In the summer of 1966, I worked at Mono Village/Twin Lakes out of Bridgeport, California. Norman and Alpha Annett owned the property, and Norman was a hard worker. He liked to work alongside his help, and I was a wiry 17-year-old from Gardnerville, Nevada, getting in shape for high school football by operating the resort's flatbed garbage truck with David Warr, a high school graduate from Yerington. We enjoyed unloading the Annett's new white Loadstar 1600 van box truck when Norman came back from Reno with pallets full of cement blocks. The game was to grab two blocks in each hand and empty each pallet in minutes. It was amazing how much weight that Loadstar carried! For me, the Loadstar, with its bulldog front styling that you describe, was the epitome of a "tough truck". With its five-speed transmission and two-speed rear axle, it was a blast to drive. I believe the engine was a 304 I-H V-8 in crimson I-H red, and I was sold. Yes, I know your two trucks! As for the carburetor and other issues, the '69 is from the conventional breaker point era, the '78 should have a more modern electronic ignition. Both use a carburetor with a governor, and I-H was quite fond of Holley. I have every bit of tuning data you will ever need in my library, plus every kind of engine, transmission, brake and axle detail. Feel free to ask, happy to provide details! Engine stalling and any other quirks can be addressed. After five years, all fluids will likely need attention. The fire truck will require basic tune work, you'll have to see what the '78 yields. Before doing anything, I would explore the engine condition of each truck. I've talked in these forums about a cylinder leak down test and other diagnostic approaches. We can take it from there. Make sure each engine meets these four demands: 1) normal compression seal, 2) correct valve timing, 3) correct valve lift, and 4) normal oil pressure with no internal noises. At that point, all reliability will be tuning-related and eliminating any vacuum leaks. While outside the "light truck" realm, we'll make an exception here. For I-H owners, the Loadstar powertrain is not far from options available in the bigger pickups, Scout II and the Travelall. Few know this, but the Travelall optioned a 5-speed transmission that was similar to the Loadstar. That's what I like about International-Harvester trucks! Just ask, I'll be happy to assist... Moses

Hi, SramblingMan! Glad you're braving this job. As for the materials that cannot be dipped, I outline and illustrate them in the article. This includes electrical parts, any rubber diaphragms or seals, plastics and other parts described. Your parts dip mentions adding a coating after stripping the parts, and that applies to parts that will then be exposed to the air and prone to oxidizing. This is not a carburetor concern and refers to general parts. The carburetor runs in a hot, under hood environment. I do, however, recommend drying all parts thoroughly—as soon as they come out of the post-cleaning water rinse. Otherwise, they will rust. Note: The BBD carburetor body and air horn, the throttle plate and valves, all fasteners, the venturi, brass and pot metal parts, all steel linkages and such can be dipped. Parts that can be ruined would be items like a phenolic plastic float and other plastics, some of which have protective coatings. Even if my article and how-to sounds "German", Greek or any language you've not mastered, you will benefit from matching the images with what's on your work bench. This and the instruction sheet that came with the carburetor kit will help get you through this—and if not, simply post a question or concern here, and I'll respond! We'll get your BBD carburetor to OEM specs... As for 4.2L EFI conversions, of course there are major gains: better fuel metering, compensation for altitude, the vehicle can run smoothly on any slope, plus more horsepower. The Mopar EFI, due to its Multi-Port Injection design with an injector at each cylinder, will conservatively provide 50 extra horsepower with no other modifications. And better fuel efficiency in the process! As for these EFI kits, if smog legality is a concern, both the Mopar EFI and Howell TBI have 50-State legal status. MSD is working on this, not yet CARB/California approved but likely soon. I'm encouraging MSD to seek a 4.2L inline Jeep six E.O. number; Dan Hiney and I have all findings and installation details from the magazine's project. Dan's YJ 4.2L with Atomic EFI now achieves California's required tailpipe readings. The system is a prime candidate for a 1980-90 Jeep 4.2L E.O. number. In cost ranking, at current full-retail, the Mopar system is most expensive, MSD Atomic EFI is second, and Howell's TBI system is the least expensive. This may influence your thinking. As for installation, Dan's YJ Wrangler serves as a prototype for both the Atomic EFI and Howell's TBI system. If you'd like to see some details from a Mopar EFI kit installation, that's also available at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html. Let's keep the lines of communication open. You're right, the only way you can rebuild a carburetor is with your hands. We'll make that a success story, and you'll be that much further up the learning curve at automotive mechanics! Moses

Funny you discovered this tool, I've been using it with the additional "motorcycle wheel attachment" for years. Did purchase it from Harbor Freight, and for the volume I do with just the motorcycle tires, it's more than paid off. Hadn't thought about this for off-road 4x4 use, but you're right—what a trail accessory! As for mounting solidly, maybe some of us can work with a 2" receiver mount approach, making a support plate stand and braces to keep the device steady when in use. Using the trailer hitch/receiver as the attachment, the changer could be stored when not in use...Any takers? Moses

I'll launch the first reply to your post, biggman100...The heavy duty shocks, unless coil spring boosted, will not help ride height. For either truck, the first consideration is a load distribution hitch and appropriate hardware. (See the exchanges with JoeMac51 at our trailering forums.) If you cannot readily control ride height with a load distribution/equalizing hitch, then rear spring rate is next. I'm not a fan of air bag boosters, though I encourage others to defend their success with this approach. My visual on leaking or blown out bags is not a pretty picture: The sudden impact on vehicle handling, including loss of vehicle control with a severe load wavering across several lanes of traffic. If a set of moderate, properly designed helper springs will not do the trick, custom springs with added leafs might. Here, however, we're approaching the limits of chassis/frame design, powertrain limits, braking limitations and the vehicle's original intent. The Ram 2500, if originally a factory "Heavy-Duty" package, should handle this load with a moderate spring rate increase to no more than the level of the 3500. Frankly, I'm more comfortable with a bona fide 3500 chassis, though both the 2005 2500 and 3500 are essentially the same if Cummins equipped or a factory "Heavy-Duty" package. The 3500 has the dually option, which is a good idea for hauling equipment. As an ex-heavy equipment operator, I'm fully aware of off-highway construction equipment weight, even for "lighter", owner/operator equipment like a Case 580 with backhoe. This is dual real wheel towing territory. For the Dakota, again consider the chassis, axle and powertrain limitations. This truck does have a 3.9L V-6 and AX15 transmission as your barometer. About the time the load taxes the rear springs dramatically, you've also overloaded the 3.9L V-6, AX15, the axles and brakes. That's why we have various tiers of chassis GVWR. This means something: Like time to look for a heavier duty truck if necessary. When wife Donna and I stood on a local Dodge/Ram lot in October of 2004 and looked at 50 new 2005 4x4 units, mostly 2500 and 3500 models, I singled out the SWR Quad-Cab 3500 4WD with the short box and 140.5" wheelbase. Why? I knew it would handle well with the lesser wheelbase and that we tow, seldom carrying anything in the bed. Was the 3500 overkill for our intended use? The Cummins diesel would deliver better fuel efficiency than any of our other light trucks, including the 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton varieties, our Suburban 4x4s and the Jeep 4x4s and SUVs. I knew the longevity of this truck was assured...In our case, we ran the original front brake pads to 105K miles, and they still had 50% material left when I changed them—typical for a 1-ton capacity chassis with our kind of highway and periodic towing, using trailers that have well-maintained and adequate brakes! On that fall day, when the salesman asked whether the heavier springs were necessary, I shared that they were the least of our concerns—quite the opposite, if the ride quality was not unbearable, we planned to drive that 3500 empty 85% of the time...Turned out the ride quality was outstanding and no different than a comparable, single rear drive 2500. The only time the 3500 spring rate aspect comes into play is when there's a heavy load on the truck's back end like you're describing, biggman100! Moses

I am a fan of both the Dodge/Ram trucks and Jeep vehicles, biggman100. I've lived and breathed "Jeep" since 1964 and written three books on Jeep models that earned Mopar part numbers, so I better be able to answer your reasonable questions! To begin, the double letter designation is a tradition with Jeep and can be traced to the Model MB WWII Willys and GPW 4x4s. These were followed in 1945 by the postwar Willys "CJ" models, beginning with the rare and earliest CJ-2 and popularized with the CJ-2A. This postwar model strongly resembled and shared components with the MB military models, they rolled down parallel assembly lines for the last few months of the war. The CJ letters had some significance, as they stood for "Civilian Jeep". This quickly disintegrated into letters like "VJ" for the late-'forties 2WD Jeepster. Aside from post-WWII military models, which were the M38 or MC (similar to the CJ-3A) and M38A1 or MD (prototype for the original CJ-5 and CJ-6), the postwar Jeep vehicles stayed with the double-letter designation, which carried from the Willys-Overland era through the Kaiser/Jeep Corporation era, through the AMC/Jeep Corporation era and into the Chrysler/Jeep Corporation era. Rather than rehash the list from my head, there is a detailed account of Jeep history and model lineage at this Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep. Check it out, you'll get both the model breakout and the letter designations in the process. For the Cliffs Notes version and forum discussions, the CJs are postwar utility 4x4 models built from 1945-86; the YJ Wrangler followed the CJ with a more modern body and some handling features, though still leaf springs, in its 1987-95 form; the TJ Wrangler was the first link-and-coil suspension Jeep utility 4x4 built from 1997-2006, including editions like the Sahara and upgrade chassis Rubicon; the XJ Cherokee is the compact, unit body SUV introduced in 1984 that ran through 2001; the Grand Cherokee is upscale and "bigger" than the XJ, and the Grand Cherokee began with the 1992-98 ZJ, then the 1999-2004 WJ, and so forth. As you guessed, the letters are the model, not the engine options, trim level or accessory package. Within each model is a trim "package", an approach popularized as far back as the Kaiser era with the J-truck Wagoneer versus Super Wagoneer, the CJ Tuxedo Park, the Renegade, and so forth. There is also the J-truck based, full size Cherokee, very popular in the 'seventies and 'eighties, now an iconic build-up vehicle today, especially the more common 2-door version. This vehicle should not be confused with the XJ Cherokee. Likewise, the original J-truck (Gladiator ladder frame chassis) Wagoneer, the Super Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer should not be confused with either the unit body Grand Cherokee nor the XJ Cherokee/Wagoneer model. The XJ Wagoneer quickly lost favor due to the contrast between its compact unit body and the classic full-size Wagoneer. Jeep quickly dropped that nomenclature on the XJ, reverting to strictly the "Cherokee" with various trim levels. Note: Today, a full-size chassis J-model (the Kaiser or AMC Jeep J-truck pickup or rare, Gladiator-era panel truck, a full-size Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer or full-size Cherokee) is commonly called an "FSJ" (Full Size Jeep). This is slang and not a factory designation. I am happy to add more, but this answers your direct questions, biggman100. Within each model designation, there are sometimes significant differences within the components, enough so that for the CJ models, I broke my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (Bentley Publishers) into 1946-71 and 1972-86 editions. However, the overall vehicle "letter" groups are significant and do define the vehicle type, chassis, styling, overall design and intended use. Moses

I'll open this one, biggman100, it's a very important topic, however, I want others to share their views... Basically, the urethane bushing industry developed around the high performance, tuned suspension handling needs of on- and off-highway vehicles. My first exposure was in the 1980s with the Baja race vehicles, 4x4 aftermarket lift kits, high performance muscle cars, Saleen and JBA Mustangs, and a variety of other high performance vehicle applications. There is a lot of misunderstanding around urethane, as it is not just "one material" but rather built to exacting "durometer" or hardness standards. Modern suspension kit or engine mount bushings often have provision for "greasing" the bushings, and in these cases, make sure that the bushings are designed to accept grease from the provided grease fitting. This may sound elementary, but there are lift kits where the bushings are not designed with a grease groove yet the control arm sleeve or a similar part has a provision for greasing! This is the "grease fitting to nowhere", as the bushing cannot be properly lubricated in this manner. And yes, urethane bushings do require lubrication at some point after their initial assembly with lubricant/grease. (Use a grease designed, ideally, for these bushings, although some manufacturers claim other chassis greases will also work.) If not greased, the bushings will squeak at the least and wear quickly at worst. Vehicle handling can suffer, too. So, to be more specific, it's always best to get engineered urethane bushings with the right durometer for the application. I personally have relied on companies like Energy Suspension over the years, urethane bushings are their main business. Kits from companies like Energy Suspension, Daystar and others actually have design features for handling, safety, longevity and compatibility with a particular vehicle's chassis. Will urethane bushings hold up? To a degree, and here I go back to the original design intent: high performance, quick service in the field or trackside, and special tuning for a particular chassis that gets reworked and rebuilt periodically. In general terms, unless you service the system (grease or periodically disassemble and lube the bushings), you will have a problem with product life. By comparison, OEM bushings have no provision for service, they are lifetime "rubber" and designed for a cushioned ride, less noise, minimal vibration and less harshness (NVH). They have a duty cycle like your Dakota is experiencing in terms of lifespan under specific driving conditions. When worn out, you replace these OEM rubber suspension bushings. I have more to say, however, it's important for others to jump into this discussion...Thanks for opening the topic, biggman100! Moses

Members JJ_Jeep and biggman100 suggested that the magazine's shop projects could benefit from a difficulty ranking system...I'd like to incorporate that approach at the magazine and also when we share projects, service work and rebuilding chores at these forums. It needs to be a ranking system that is very clear, not generalized. We've all seen rankings that give, say, four levels of difficulty without much detail about the experience required for each. Tools needed will be a concern, however, the real issue is the skill level required. Would it be better to describe each project in a paragraph about its difficulty, or do folks prefer a scale or number system? If a scale, is there a recognized, universal pattern, or is the ranking system specific to each source? The information era is unique in that there is ready access to professional-level data. This in itself does not make us "professional", though. Just because the information is available does not mean we always need to act upon it. It's okay for a project/article or HD video to provide enough information for us to make an informed decision—in some cases that choice may be whether to plunge into the rebuild chores, buy a rebuilt or new parts assembly, or sublet the task to a professional shop. I like to use welding, torch cutting and brazing as examples: You can't teach these techniques strictly from a textbook. These are hand-to-eye coordination skills that require actual practice and experience. For those with experience, it's often much more effective to watch an HD video of a process than to "read about" the technique. The same applies with many mechanical skills, like using a hydraulic press, installing a seal or installing rods, pistons and insert bearings into a cylinder block. This is why we have service and skill trades, where professionalism can be cultivated over time through a learning process or apprenticeship. I'm open to suggestions about ranking methods and content. Want this to work for everyone! Moses

I've opened a new topic at the "Let's Talk" category about this idea of ranking projects...Thanks, JJ_Jeep and biggman100 for the input! Moses

There's an epidemic problem with fuel these days, and many blame ethanol and winterized fuels as the culprit. Whether ethanol or MTBE is the issue, carburetor and EFI system clogging is rampant, especially in vehicles that set for long periods of time. This became clear when our XR350R Honda dirt motorcycle set for over a year with fuel in the carburetor bowls. This four-valve thumper uses two carburetors, and one has the idle circuit and a pilot jet. The engine ran flawless until parked, then would not idle after setting for a long time. Most of us are aware of this plague, especially owners of Jeep 4x4s, rock crawlers and OHVs that park for long periods. Essentially, gasoline and diesel fuel has a shelf life. These fuels break down over time. The result can be an inability to fire, severe engine ping and symptoms similar to extremely low octane performance. In the day, this would simply cause poor performance. A fresh tank of fuel would solve the problem. Remember that old barn find MB Jeep or Bultaco motorcycle that would not start? A fresh tank of fuel (pre-mix for the Bultaco, please), priming the carburetor, and the engine fired! Sure, the carburetor gaskets may have shrunk and they leak now, but we're running! Today's ethanol behaves like alcohol and bonds with any water in the fuel. This water, instead of laying low in the fuel tank, moves through the fuel supply system. Fuel filter materials, especially pleated paper, swell in the presence of water. This swelling serves as a safeguard to protect fuel injection and carburetor components: The filter clogs and stops fuel flow. Note: This can even happen from one bad tank of fuel (too much water content). We've all heard about or experienced the gas station that ran its storage tank to the bottom, where the water accumulates. The unlucky customers who pumped that gas wound up with clogged fuel filters. Back to the XR350R example, the stale pump gas in the fuel bowl and pilot jet caused such severe clogging of the jet that the jet could not be cleaned with carburetor cleaner! (Drilling a carburetor jet is a lost cause; the bit, even turned with finger tips, will scarf into the brass and increase the jet's bore size!) I replaced the jet with the proper size pilot and rebuilt both carburetors. The engine's dependability and performance immediately returned. So, if your 4x4, OHV, ATV or dirt motorcycle sets up for long periods, consider using a fuel stabilizer or other additives that will prevent fuel breakdown and damage from stagnant fuel. In the case of motorcycles and ATVs with petcocks, always turn off the fuel for both safety reasons and to stop flow to the carburetor. Drain the carburetor bowl(s) when your OHV or bike will set for long periods; most OHV carburetors have a simple drain plug on the bottom of the carburetor's float bowl. Don't overlook the "fuel station" on your toy hauler trailer, either! Use up that fuel or stabilize it. I keep stored fuel for no more than four or five months these days. If my 4-stroke motorcycle fuel can is setting that long with fuel, the fuel gets dumped into the street/trail driven XJ Cherokee and burned up. We do the same with the Ram/Cummins diesel and its 75-gallon auxiliary fuel tank. After 60-days without a lot of driving, I will run both tanks down completely, timing the refill for a period when fuel prices will not be devastating: This is a 110 gallon refill, and the 30-50 cents a gallon "futures-based" price hike can be costly. Does anyone have a gasoline or diesel fuel stabilizer that they find useful and effective? Please share... Moses

Clogged venturi tubes or other fuel circuits could be an issue here. When you have the time, look through my article on rebuilding the BBD. Also, regarding the O-ring, did you remove the bowl vent, too? Look at that illustration near the top of the article. Before you get involved with the carburetor again, disconnect the fuel hose at the carburetor side of the fuel filter near the carburetor. Safely route a piece of fuel hose to a can away from spark and heat. (You may need to cap the fuel filter return hose nipple to prevent a leak.) Remove the high tension (spark plug gauge size) wire from the distributor cap to the coil as a safeguard. Have someone crank over the engine. The fuel pump should be moving fuel. The normal volume for your pump is 16 oz. in thirty seconds with the engine idling. Since you cannot get the engine to run, the cranking volume will be less but should be a steady flow, spewing in pump strokes. If you have a gasoline pressure gauge, the fuel pump pressure is 4-5 PSI on your pump's application. You should have the 3-pipe fuel filter and all EVAP components hooked up. If there is no fuel moving through the pump, the fuel tank pickup could be plugged, or there might be a restriction in the system (doubtful, the engine ran when you shut it off last year). Then there's the often overlooked issue with the emission system and possible trouble with the EVAP hoses and components that can cause a fuel lockup in the system. We'll talk about that if you're not getting fuel to the filter. I'm not quick to condemn parts and start the "parts replacing" strategy. One item that can cause havoc on the 4.2L engines with EVAP, however, is the fuel tank cap. If the cap is not pressurized and sealing properly, there can be a fuel supply problem. I'm bringing this up, because in the worse case scenario, there can be little or no fuel to the carburetor bowl. For the moment, let's not "borrow trouble", there's plenty available if you cannot find a problem at the carburetor's fuel circuits. Since you do have a carburetor kit, I would definitely follow through with the rebuild, using my article and this forum if necessary to assist. There is a lot of creative misinformation on the web about the BBD and how you should strip off the Sole-Vac and other components. This is a senseless approach unless done systematically, and that's not easy with so many components and functions overlapping. Rebuilt to factory, "blueprint" standards like I describe, including the Sole-Vac system restoration with alcohol as a cleaning agent, you can get great results. You do need to make sure all of these components function properly, though, and that the fuel, vacuum and spark systems interact as designed. Not always easy with a 1980-90 4.2L Jeep inline six! If your Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler is stock and intact under the hood, consider yourself fortunate. Any missing or defective pieces within the fuel/carburetor, vacuum, spark control, fuel metering, EVAP or exhaust systems, plus the electronic modules and wiring, will present a troubleshooting challenge. While many CJs and early YJ Wranglers have been converted to Mopar, Howell and MSD Atomic EFI systems (click here for details on all three systems in my 5-page article on the MSD Atomic installation), you may not want to go that expense. I'm not a big fan of the Weber carburetor "cure", however, that's a less costly alternative. To instill owner confidence around later CJ and YJ Wrangler 4.2L engines with the BBD carburetor and OEM spark system, I like to use this metaphor: We tested these vehicles over the Rubicon Trail in fully stock, showroom fresh form. They behaved like any other carbureted engine in terms of side slope flooding and altitude sensitivity; however, they ran very well. I'm a restorer and believe that the OEM system, when working properly with its integrated components intact, can be a success story. Moses

I worked as a light- and medium-duty truck fleet mechanic in my early career. In this environment, vehicles must run well and safely. I performed any and all mechanical service work and preventive care on 22 vehicles and pieces of construction equipment. In the process, I found quick ways to "test" engines, chassis, brakes, steering, transmissions, clutches, axles and electrical systems. Some of those fundamental diagnostic skills serve me to this day. One area of testing was for internal engine wear, and at other forum topics, I discuss the use of compression, vacuum and leak down gauges. None of these tests, however, pinpoint wear on the engine's timing chain, sprockets or timing gear mechanism. The vacuum gauge comes closest, as it can show retarded valve timing or ignition retard effects, indicated by low vacuum at an idle with normal engine compression readings. Retarded valve timing indicates a worn timing chain, sprockets or timing gears. In the conventional ignition distributor (breaker point or HEI) era, there was a hint of timing chain wear when the ignition spark timing suddenly retarded (without a loose distributor housing). At one time, OEMs tried nylon coated camshaft sprocket teeth for quieter engine operation, and it was not unusual for the engine to suddenly show retarded spark timing with mysterious "white plastic" bits appearing in the engine's drain oil. Regardless of sprocket or gear design, I used my own quick test for engine timing chain wear without the need to remove the engine's timing cover. With a breaker point or breaker-less ignition distributor with a cap and rotor, the test is quick and straightforward: 1) Disable the ignition and starter, detach the battery negative cable if necessary...This timing chain or gear test will be easier if the spark plugs are removed, but this is not mandatory. 2) Rotate the crankshaft pulley in the direction of engine cranking, using a socket and ratchet wrench at the crankshaft bolt; make sure the ignition is disabled or battery negative cable disconnected. Bring the pulley to the TDC mark. 3) Remove the distributor cap. Note the position of the ignition rotor to the distributor housing. Mark the distributor housing edge with a crayon or marker if helpful. 4) Rotate the crankshaft in the direction opposite cranking, very slowly; you will be watching for the slightest movement of the distributor rotor. 5) As soon as the rotor budges, stop rotating the crankshaft. Note the number of degrees that the crankshaft has rotated. The distributor shaft and rotor will have rotated 1/2 that number of degrees, since this is a 4-stroke engine: There are 2 rotations of the crankshaft for each rotation of the camshaft. 6) This amount of movement should be slight for a timing chain or gears in good condition. Since the distributor shaft runs off the camshaft, this movement reflects the play at the timing chain or gear set. 7) Repeat this test if necessary, always bringing the crankshaft pulley slowly to the TDC mark in the cranking direction—without passing the mark. If you pass the pulley mark, rotate the crankshaft back 45-degrees or so and carefully bring it to the TDC mark again. This test indicates the play between the camshaft gear or sprocket and the crankshaft gear or sprocket. It works on most OHV engines and also L-head engines. From the earliest Willys engines with sprockets and a chain, through the gear set valve timing mechanisms, to the modern chain and sprocket sets, the principle remains the same. If you're trying to translate rotor movement to wear, my experience taught that approximately 5/8" of crankshaft pulley movement (8" or so pulley diameter), at the O.D. of the pulley, was considerable for OHV or L-head engines with a timing chain and sprockets. If the engine has timing gears, like the older Jeep L-head or F-head 134 four, movement should be less than this amount. You're talking about play between gear teeth. This is a rough test but useful when your ignition base timing has been retarding over time on a conventional distributor—and the distributor housing is not loose. On all engines, including modern EFI engines where the PCM/ECU controls spark timing, the distributor's rotor movement determines the amount of timing chain and sprocket or timing gear wear. The fleet engines I serviced and rebuilt at that time included Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge (slant six), Ford and I-H inline six-cylinder OHV types. These pushrod engines used either a timing chain with sprockets or timing gears, all with a breaker point ignition. Engines like the AMC/Jeep 232/258 and 4.0L are of similar design, beginning with breaker point, then electronic and finally PCM driven ignition systems. Moses

Biggman100, I appreciate your compliments, the article and its illustrations are a "textbook" approach to rebuilding the AX15. I was diplomatic when I shared that this transmission rebuild is not for the "faint of heart". I've had very supportive comments from many who have rebuilt an AX15 from the steps I share and that level of detail, which, quite frankly, is beyond a factory workshop manual, since a workshop manual lacks the number of photo-illustrations and is shorthand for professionals who already have a sense for transmission rebuilding. On the other hand, I have not polled the folks who rebuilt their AX15 to determine what previous experience they brought to the task... I instructed automotive mechanics a total of seven years at the adult education level, writing curriculum for five of those years. Bringing that experience to projects, I want the reader to "think like a mechanic". (Excuse me, we're "technicians" today.) I'm an optimist and instructor who believes that information translates as ability. I've been known to overestimate the number of folks who either want to think like a mechanic or have life experience that supports that "thinking". I like JJ's hint, and we could employ a skill/difficulty rating for projects, setting up criteria for what each rating really means. This is popular elsewhere and would be a sensible way to forewarn folks of a project's challenges. Moses

If anyone is inclined to wash off their engine, again, the caution is to make sure the engine castings are not hot when you begin! As for moisture in the wrong place, there are several concerns. In the breaker point ignition era and even HEI, I would avoid shooting hot wash water or steam cleaner spray (very legal and commonly used at repair shops "in the day") directly at the distributor cap. Sometimes, I would cover the cap with plastic or rags for added protection. Even condensation from this kind of cleaning would create moisture beneath the cap that biggman100 experienced. On modern engines, avoid high pressure spray around the PCM, sensitive wiring and plug connectors. Also avoid shooting water into the air cleaner intake, and by all means, if you use an open-face air cleaner (which I avoid using on anything but a strictly street driven vehicle), keep water away from the air filter element. If anyone would like to know why not to use an open face air cleaner, please start a new topic, I'll gladly elaborate. Coke on the terminals may have little impact if the battery is dead, I've heard of energizing a dead battery with other approaches that would be far less drinkable than Coca-Cola. Coke, incidentally would be very rough on the vehicle's paint finish. Battery cables made at your auto parts house sound worth pursuing. If you go that route, JJ, let us know the cost, and please provide a photo or two of the finished product! Moses

JJ_Jeep, your 250K miles with this little in the way of repairs and service parts is an indication of quality, highway mileage and conscientious routine maintenance. Good work there! The AX15 from Advance Adapters should be a bolt-in without modifications. There will be a transfer of some peripheral parts, nothing difficult there. A quality clutch replacement with new disc, throwout bearing and a new clutch cover, plus a new pilot bearing and resurfacing or replacement of the flywheel, would do it! I'll post the timing chain test at the Let's Talk 'How-to Tips' forum... Moses

ScramblingMan, welcome to the forums! Very pleased with your participation, and the whole aim with these forums is to bring members up the learning curve by sharing information. First, with your Carter BBD two-barrel, you're in luck. I did a comprehensive rebuild article for the magazine with the same level of detail you find in my books. That step-by-step set of instructions for rebuilding your BBD is at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html. Read my instructions and steps thoroughly. I believe that if you have a diagram, a carburetor rebuild kit and my illustrated instructions, you can rebuild and get your BBD carburetor functioning as new...Really! As for the O-ring that flew out from the air horn, look over the article's illustrations. Let's pick it up from there, SramblingMan. You should discover the location from the photos...or I can furnish better illustrations in a factory-level parts schematic, just let me know! To take the guesswork out of your carburetor adjustments, here is the adjustment procedure for a YJ Wrangler version of your Scrambler's BBD carburetor: Idle Adjustment of YJ BBD.pdf We can also discuss why your fuel supply was dry if that's still in question. Your CJ 4.2L has a mechanical fuel pump and a filter alongside the valve cover... Moses

ScramblingMan, welcome to the forums! Very pleased with your participation, and the whole aim with these forums is to bring members up the learning curve by sharing information. First, with your Carter BBD two-barrel, you're in luck. I did a comprehensive rebuild article for the magazine with the same level of detail you find in my books. That step-by-step set of instructions for rebuilding your BBD is at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html. Read my instructions and steps thoroughly. I believe that if you have a diagram, a carburetor rebuild kit and my illustrated instructions, you can rebuild and get your BBD carburetor functioning as new...Really! As for the O-ring that flew out from the air horn, look over the article's illustrations. Let's pick it up from there, SramblingMan. You should discover the location from the photos...or I can furnish better illustrations in a factory-level parts schematic, just let me know! To take the guesswork out of your carburetor adjustments, here is the adjustment procedure for a YJ Wrangler version of your Scrambler's BBD carburetor: Idle Adjustment of YJ BBD.pdf Moses

RareCJ8, this is an incredible, innovative trailer, thanks for the in-depth tour and description of the various components and the tent, which others should find of real value. Talk about trail tested products! I've had the pleasure of following this trailer on a tight, twisty, high ground clearance trail, coming out of Camp Wamp after transporting kids with disabilities to the camp—RareCJ8 brought a full load of gear into the camp before we took the Gold Lake Trail "shortcut" (i.e., rock pile) back to civilization... He tugged the trailer through major rocks with the stroker 4.6L-powered CJ8 Scrambler, and this outfit also does duty on the Rubicon Trail, Fordyce, Blue Lakes and other Sierra trails! Both the Scrambler and the trailer are excellent examples of trail-prepped equipment, purpose built and continually improved upon for severe duty use. Anyone guessed what the winches are doing at a Chevron station? Moses

Great tent! This is on a military trailer platform...RareCJ8, please comment about the trailer...I think it's fantastic on the Rubicon Trail and elsewhere, the real deal!