Moses Ludel

Umm...I missed out! When I installed lift kits, 50 hours would have handled at least 2-1/2 vehicles...The 18 hours would be reasonable for a thorough job, from installation of parts to full alignment of axles, wheel alignment and such. I think you're right, though, Biggman100, this could be a loaded question. In the forums photo gallery, owners can comment on their individual experiences, and this might be insightful. I do know that installation shops, familiar with particular lift kits on specific chassis applications, do quote labor from a "menu". For example, there is a 4-Wheel Parts retail outlet with installation shop at Sparks, Nevada (and elsewhere), and they must have a formula. We might look into that angle. Similarly, auto dealerships, like a Jeep or Ram truck dealer selling Mopar lift kits, must have a formula and work from an estimate menu. I'm not clear how New York State handles this, but most states have a mandatory "quote" requirement before a job begins. This would be impossible to do unless the shop has a clear sense for the labor time. An independent shop might have more latitude for "time and materials", but I doubt it. In states like California, an agency like the Bureau of Automotive Affairs insists on an initial estimate, though there is a provision for bumping the charges (with the consumer's permission) if a problem or additional work emerges during a repair. This generally applies to repair work on mechanical or electrical systems where the job is unclear before assembly teardown. Visualize an automatic transmission, engine or a transfer case, where the parts cannot be inspected without the teardown. There is also the lift kit manufacturer's "estimate" of installation time, which also applies to many other aftermarket automotive products. This is typically intended to encourage consumers to purchase a kit, and it's not clear what the labor time reflects. (Is this the time it takes an expert or team, with all power tools available, to do the job at a professional shop facility set up for replacing these parts? This is hardly a home garage or under the apartment carport!) As Megatron aptly noted in his reply to our project difficulty rating topic, even the tools you own can determine how long it takes to do a job. Your familiarity with a given procedure is a whole other story! I did open a can of worms...so let's keep this question open! Moses

I recently started a topic on the merits of doing a dual-sport conversion and "plating" a dirt motorcycle rather than purchasing an OHV permit ("sticker"). Within my home State of Nevada, and many other states from coast to coast, it is perfectly legal to convert an off-road (dirt) motorcycle into a dual-sport for both on- and off-highway use. The motorcycle must be brought to DOT and state on-highway equipment standards. Insurance is a requirement as with any other highway legal vehicle. Such conversions are not allowed in the neighboring State of California on motorcycles built after 1977. There is much discussion across the motorcycle community regarding California's off-road motorcycle to dual sport conversion policy. I took the time to research the California rules. Here is a quick recap of what I shared earlier about the State of California ruling: "...The conversion of off-highway "dirt" motorcycles (deemed "off-road use" by the cycle manufacturer, DOT and EPA) has not been allowed within the Golden State since February 1, 2004. There are two exceptions: 1) motorcycles built prior to 1978, and 2) 1978-up cycles with less than 50cc displacement...According to the current regulations, California dual-sport conversions were acceptable on motorcycles built through model year 2002 if the conversion was completed and paperwork submitted to the DMV prior to February 1, 2004. From January 1, 2004 forward, the DMV has required "verification" or proof that the motorcycle came with an EPA and/or California emissions label for on-highway use. This ruling about "verification" went into effect on January 1, 2004, with a one-month "grace period" during that month....If there was a street title issued within these timeframes and the cycle has current registration and street use insurance, the cycle is still legal for highway or dual-purpose use...The internet is rife with rumors, anecdotal stories and speculation about the fate of California plated dual-sport motorcycles converted after January 31, 2004. According to a statement that reflects the actual California DMV regulations, some have good reason to fear: statement of the rulings. If you're puzzled, contemplating a dual-sport conversion or considering a cycle purchase intended for California registration, read the statement and at least know where you stand. Check with the DMV about whether "grandfathering" applies when an earlier dual-sport conversion goes through a title/ownership change." Just today, I purchased an ultra-low mileage Honda XR650R for a dual-sport conversion. At Nevada and many other states, this is a popular candidate for a dual-sport conversion. This particular motorcycle was first sold in Texas, had a Texas title, and was actually equipped for street legal use in the State of Texas. Nevada requires a complete verification of the conversion equipment, based on DOT and Nevada standards. The motorcycle will be inspected for its street legal equipment and DOT tires. This cycle currently has a Baja Designs dual-sport conversion kit, which will meet Nevada requirements as it did in the State of Texas. The seller/owner was denied California dual-sport registration and titling on this 2000 Honda XR650R. The sole explanation from the DMV was that the motorcycle did not have an on-highway OEM emissions sticker. This sticker is issued on EPA and EPA/California certified motorcycles built and sold for highway use. Note: Using the VIN, many motorcycles can be segregated quickly as "off-road use only" and "highway use". 2003-up cycles with a "C" or "3" in the 8th position of the VIN are automatically classified as "red sticker" or restricted off-road use with non-compliant emissions. Since February 1, 2004, no 1978 up off-highway motorcycle, green or red sticker eligible, has been eligible to convert into a dual-sport by the State of California. I'll skip the anecdotes and stories about motorcycles that have undergone a conversion after February 1, 2004, those owners that managed to secure a license plate in California. Cases of "knowing someone" or a "friendly" (more likely a naïve or overwhelmed) DMV counterperson who let one slip by, or whatever, are not as important as California's regulation on the books that says conversions on 1978-up motorcycles are not legal after January 1, 2004. Whether California thoroughly enforces this ruling or not, there is a regulation. When did California Air Resources Board start addressing motorcycle tailpipe emissions? Here is a statement from the California DMV's official "Vehicle Industry News": "The California Air Resources Board (ARB) established emission regulations for on-highway motorcycles beginning with 1978 year models. These regulations require an off-highway motorcycle to have an emission label affixed to the vehicle indicating certification by the manufacturer for on-highway use when converting to on-highway or dual registration. ARB, DMV, and the California State Parks' Off-Highway Motor Vehicle Recreation Division mutually agreed to begin implementation of these regulations January 1, 2004." If you own a motorcycle sold and marketed as an "off-highway" model, can you now get a "label" from the motorcycle's manufacturer? No—the manufacturer did not pursue such a label for this particular dirt motorcycle model. A label implies that the motorcycle has passed EPA and/or California emission standards and can be operated on the highway. So, why doesn't the manufacturer do this, especially in cases where the actual tailpipe emissions are in compliance with highway requirements? The reason is clear: These strictly dirt motorcycles may have a "clean" tailpipe, but they do not have D.O.T. approved lighting, a brake light, mirrors, reflectors and such. California's Air Resources Board apparently takes the position that motorcycles without these emissions labels were not "clean air" certified, and without certification, they were considered "polluters"—simply because they were not certified. The presumption is that off-highway "dirt" motorcycles built from 1978-up might create a pollution issue in California. Are four-stroke motorcycles "gross polluters"? Judging by fuel efficiency and the tuning requirements to run right, these vehicles should be contributing less tailpipe pollution per mile than automobiles, trucks and busses...Two-stroke engines, with high hydrocarbon emissions, might arguably be considered an issue, so we'll stick to four-strokes. Motorcycle engines, like other gasoline engines, run best at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio when cruising. Tuning a motorcycle to run richer than stoichiometric would be detrimental to performance (unless there is a high performance camshaft and boosted compression ratio that will tolerate richer mixtures). In many cases, a street motorcycle engine design and its tuning will appear in an off-road motorcycle. It can be reasonably assumed that dirt tuning is somewhat like street tuning. (Crankcase emissions and evaporative emissions are a whole other issue.) Even if the off-road motorcycle ran richer, consider the displacement of dirt motorcycle engines. A well engineered 650cc engine is enormous for a dirt bike. True dirt bikes weigh so little that, in the case of an "uncorked" Honda XR650R, you're looking at a power-to-weight ratio of under 6 pounds (considering the bare cycle alone) per horsepower! The Baja racing version of these cycles has more like 4.5 pounds per horsepower. Given the relatively small displacement and this level of power to weight ratio, a motorcycle should be incapable, in reasonable tune, of being a gross polluter when compared to pre-catalytic converter automobiles, trucks/SUVs, commercial vehicles or a bus. Some argue that a motorcycle is typically one-person transportation. Has anyone checked recently to see what percentage of California's SUVs are in the two-person commuter lanes and how many SUVs have only a driver/occupant? Any state genuinely concerned about air quality and pollution levels should applaud any increase in motorcycle transportation on the streets. The lone motorcyclist, even on a "Big Red Pig" Honda XR650R converted dual sport motorcycle cannot possibly pollute as much as a popular SUV with California emissions certification. Lower compression engines in cycles like the street legal Honda XR650L (air-cooled) or a KLR Kawasaki can deliver 50-plus mpg. Even a properly tuned BRP, known for winning the Baja 1000 many times in modified form, can muster 40-plus mpg when driven sanely. Isn't that a measure of clean air success while reducing our dependency on foreign oil? Or are we so bureaucratic and rule-oriented in states like California that stickers and labels take precedence over dramatic reductions in fuel consumption and less pollution per mile from the use of smaller engines? As motorcycles shift to EFI from carburetors, tailpipe emission concerns decrease even more. Forward thinking manufacturers like KTM and Christini have now certified (at least EPA) their competitive dirt motorcycle models. (The KTM 500EXC and Christini 450DS are two examples.) These cycles are both DOT and EPA legal out of the box. Honda and others must follow. The lightweight, dual-sport motorcycle market is wide open. Consumers want lightweight, bona fide dirt motorcycles that are "dual-sports" for the purpose of titling, registering and legally running on public highways. Sure, a 250 pound dirt bike with knobby DOT tires is hardly the best candidate for the Autobahn or cross-country interstate highways. However, it does eliminate the need to lug your cycle to the OHV park in a pickup or on a trailer! In the meantime, there are many thousands of affordable used four-stroke dirt motorcycles out there whose owners could benefit from riding on the highway. Imagine, they'd be parking their pickup truck that gets 14 mpg and getting 35-60 mpg on the highway—if they can keep the front wheel on the ground... Moses

Welcome to the forums, BusyBee123! You have an AX5 transmission, sounds like a shifter control tower problem from your description. We've covered the AX15 transmission in the 4.0L six-cylinder Jeep YJ and TJ Wrangler models, even the Dodge Dakota, now you have broadened our horizons to include the 2.5L engine's AX5 Aisin Warner five-speed manual transmission! The AX5 is in many ways similar to the AX15, so I will refer you to my AX15 transmission rebuild, a step-by-step how-to at the magazine. That article includes 209 illustrated and detailed steps, and you can see the relationship of parts and how the control tower and shifter lever interact with the rest of the shift mechanism. The article is a two-part, the first part is at this link: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-1-Disassembly-Inspection.html. I am trusting that the lever has simply come loose. Pay particular attention to illustration AX-15-4 and AX-15-5, then go to AX-15-197 through AX-15-205 (in Part II). You'll see how these pieces fit and what should be there in the way of parts. Get back to us on the "fix", and if you need more assistance, we're here! Welcome to the forums, looking forward to your topic posts, replies and photos of your "new" Jeep Wrangler and four-wheeling! Moses

Well, Joe Mac, very glad you did your homework here. The Reese data confirms my concerns about extending from a stock platform hitch. Their load rating figures are based upon the "physics" of extending the hitch/ball mount point. I knew there had to be a drop in load limit or increased stress to the tow vehicle and the equalizing hitch assembly. Apparently, the SuperTruss hitch platform takes the load distribution and "extended frame" issue into account. So, without drilling down further into the engineering, you got the wise counsel you needed from end users. Always valuable, this user information gave you peace of mind about your choice...and helps other members and guests reading this forum topic! Be sure to post some photos of your Jeep TJ Rubicon and the new trailer, hitch and Chevy 2500 Duramax camper/truck at the new 'Tech and Travel' Forums Photo Gallery...Your travel photos would be enjoyed, too! Best, Moses

Spent late night R&R last week streaming the two documentary series by Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman. The "Long Way Round" and "Long Way Down" have generated hordes of bucket list entries from off-pavement motorcyclists, rough country travel buffs, 4x4 enthusiasts, cultural anthropologists and others interested in untainted and remote parts of the World! Fantastic footage, this on-the-ground HD video travelogue provides a unique look at the natural world and "underdeveloped" (lucky for them!) countries in Central Asia, Siberia and Africa. While David Attenborough and National Geographic have done wonderful work with wildlife and human cultural coverage, the spontaneity, authenticity and grassroots insights from McGregor and Boorman take this to a new level. There's nothing more humbling or physically demanding than riding a primitive road on an overloaded BMW motorcycle...Uncontrived, un-staged, and anything but "reality TV", this is a viewing you will never forget...Both series are available from Netflix, get on it! I'm inspired—and prepping for a more accessible and affordable venture of our own: the 4WD Mechanix Magazine HD Video Network filming of the vast Nevada outback, sharing its diverse and challenging Great Basin geography and remoteness, visiting the first people and sharing their cultures, exploring the Silver State's rich mining history, and poring over the contrasting landscapes. The on-the-ground challenge for motorcycles will add more adventure and color this travel! I'm converting at least one of our vintage four-valve XR Honda motorcycles to a street-legal, dual-sport for the brief stints on asphalt and long stretches on dirt. (The magazine's base is mere blocks from the Lincoln Highway/Highway 50A access at Fernley; U.S. 50 across Nevada is known as the "Loneliest Highway in America"—our kind of asphalt!) Part of the plan is affordability, riding and camping at the high desert, rugged mountains and remote, primitive routes without compromising our life savings...This is the yet "under-exploited world", right in our backyard...Stay tuned! Moses

Hi, Manny, welcome to the forums! Your comments brought back a cascade of memories. My original intent when drafting the Jeep Owner's Bible stemmed from several principles. My driving background included high stakes, remote areas of northern Nevada, with seasons ranging from winter sub-zero extremes to summer days that taxed a vintage Jeep's cooling system to the limit. I "lived Jeep" from my learner's permit through my first driver's license exam, followed by years of high desert exploration and hunting seasons in shale above timberline. By the time I first did the Rubicon Trail in a stone-stock '64 CJ-5 Jeep (1967), I was an 18-year-old veteran four-wheeler. Within a year of that trip, my professional automotive technical career began with several years of work as a light and medium duty truck fleet mechanic, an environment where preventive care and OEM integrity ruled. Later, this penchant for bringing vehicles back to original equipment standards got further reinforced by an apprenticeship with the Operating Engineers Union, where a journeyman repairman/welder was responsible for off-highway equipment and machinery that would today be worth $200K to $1M or more per piece. I continued to four-wheel in primitive, remote country during my off time, working jobs like the I-80 bypass of Winnemucca, Nevada. All of that carried into my career as an automotive journalist and author, and the primary aim with the Jeep Owner's Bible and my subsequent Bentley books was to convey "how to think like a professional mechanic and experienced four-wheeler". In my view and experience, that mechanic was a fleet truck and off-highway equipment professional bent on preventive maintenance and OEM-class repairs. My goal has always been to prevent a vehicle breakdown or failure in service...Which has also made sense for my Jeep and other off-pavement, backcountry use 4x4s. Today, trails like the Rubicon and vehicles like the 116" wheelbase Jeep JK Wrangler four-door 4x4 require 35" or larger diameter tires. This is in part due to the horrendous deterioration of these trails from theme park traffic numbers, and partly due to wheelbase lengths that rival traditional 1/2-ton, full-size pickup trucks. When I wrote the first edition of the Jeep Owner's Bible, released over twenty years ago, it was sensible to say that 33" tires were the largest diameter needed on any Jeep utility 4x4 of that era. I still subscribe to 31"-33" tires for a Jeep 94" wheelbase CJ-7, and as you hint, Manny, that eliminates the laundry list of "trickledown" effects and required modifications needed to support 35" and bigger tires. I have always been concerned about center-of-gravity and roll center for the vintage Jeep 4x4s—they have relatively narrow track widths. Since first publishing in the early '80s, I have recommended the use of wider, negative offset wheels to widen the track width on lifted 4x4 vehicles. From a pragmatic use and resale value standpoint, the moderate changes described in my books reflect a restorative philosophy. This stems from years at truck fleet and equipment maintenance work. If your four-wheeling is on reasonable trails and not full-on rock crawling, 31" to 33" tire diameter would work fine, requiring a 2.5" to 4" lift on your Jeep CJ-7. The vehicle could easily be restored to stock if necessary, as the modifications for fitting these tires would be minimal. 4x4 modifications have a lot to do with driving environments, outdoor interests and concern for environmental impact. My past years as the Media Representative on the Tread Lightly, Inc., Board of Directors further reinforced a longstanding respect for the environment—and our shared responsibility as backcountry land users. Thanks for joining us, Manny, I look forward to your contribution and discussions at the forums—members and guests would enjoy photos of your CJ-7 at the new forums photo gallery! We'd like to hear about your four-wheeling interests, too! Moses

So, this means two things: 1) Reese is aware of liability and not overstepping its bounds by committing to something beyond its engineering, and 2) the comments suggest that you read the intended use of this hitch extension and its load rating within that intended use. There is also a reference to a 3" curvature upward. Does this imply that the extended ball mount repositions weight and requires a 3" rise to compensate? Is this a "beam" extension that acts as additional torsion force when loaded? Details should be available from Reese on how the extension works and its load capacities. If the 3" rise indicates that additional force is necessary to compensate for the 24" extension, you can "reverse engineer" the system to determine the exact percentage of leverage created by the use of an extension. You would need to know what Reese expects as normal drop of the ball height when the trailer is loaded with a regular (short) ball mount. Then you would factor where the ball would set at 24" further from the truck. My guess is that the arch upward in the extended ball mount helps compensate for the added drop and also for the leverage factor. A 24" ball mount extension is like extending your truck's frame 24"—we'll use the rear axle centerline as a point of reference. The rear axle spring perches and axle are our reference point for the load. G.M. designed the factory platform hitch for a "normal" (i.e., shorter) receiver mount. Visualize that the extended ball mount is like weighting the truck 24" beyond the factory receiver ball mount and ball position. This "frame extension" point for the ball apparently requires 3" of added ball height to place the ball at a normal height for the tongue load. There is a rated load/weight for the platform hitch/receiver and a standard, short ball mount. (That weight is given for either your Class IV or V hitch, whichever came with the truck.) This load limit rating is typically given as both direct tongue weight (without a load equalizing hitch) and also the tongue weight limit when using a load distributing hitch assembly. If the 24" extension is a flexing/torsion member like the bars on a load distributing hitch, then Reese has calculated a load rating for that entire hitch setup. That's why I posed the earlier questions. The extended ball mount changes the dynamics of the load on the truck's frame, springs and axles. The load distributing hitch can compensate in terms of leveling the truck and trailer; however, the amount of adjusted force at the equalizing hitch changes with the extended ball mount. Reese is aware of the 24" extension's limits and how the load gets transferred to your truck's frame and suspension with an equalizing/load distributing hitch. Reese has likely calculated all of these factors and set a load limit for the extension ball mount, the trailer tongue weight and a limit on the overall trailer weight being distributed across the equalizing/load distributing hitch. The representative is asking that you know the Reese ratings for the extended ball mount. I would also suggest that if you use the Reese extension, you also use the rest of the recommended Reese equipment. The Reese tests, I'm sure, apply to Reese's load distributing hitches, the entire equalizing platform and use of the extension ball mount. As for the added supports and upward pulling chains approach, Reese is obviously not fond of the idea. (I also gave some reasons for not doing this.) The chains pulling at that angle could interfere with the design intent of the curved extension. Reese knows what components will work with its extension ball mount. Moses

As a footnote, I'll again emphasize that the AX15 is a complex transmission and rebuilding it requires thoughtfulness and focus. In our many forum discussions on the AX15 transmission, you will find informative, in-depth information. These exchanges even deal with nuances that seldom get discussed—like the synchronizer blocking rings that suddenly changed part numbers and design in the late '90s. Most AX15 "quirks" seem to center around these later transmissions, and the aftermarket parts sources appear to be lagging about the correct replacement synchro rings. Note the Mopar part number differences discussed at our Jeep YJ/TJ Wrangler forum topics on the AX15. At this forum, you'll find many insights. The Weber State University instructor's YouTube video (which I embedded at one of the AX15 forum topics) will provide a great overview of the AX15 (Toyota A150) transmission and how it functions. Take the time to view that 24-minute video and get an orientation to the transmission: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/topic/57-ax-15-shifting-problem-after-rebuild/. My 209-step, illustrated how-to article should provide the rebuilding instructions. That article is in two parts, the first part found at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-1-Disassembly-Inspection.html. Due to the complexity of this unit, some viewers never get past the first part/page of my article before opting for a rebuilt exchange unit or reaching out for a new AX15 transmission assembly from Advance Adapters. Whatever you decide to do, CJMall, you've got the support here! Moses

We once referred to vintage Jeep 4x4s as the most modified and cannibalized vehicles on the planet. Beginning with WWII surplus MB Willys Jeep models, most off-road rigs got a good dose of upgrades, from oversized tires to V-8 conversions. So popular was the modification approach that in the Chrysler/Jeep Mopar era, we refer to the Jeep as the most "personalized" vehicle around, with catalogs full of accessories, chassis upgrades and winches. Today, for the first time, vintage Jeep vehicles have shown a bump in value, even finding their way to Mecum and other auctions alongside vintage collectible cars and nostalgia muscle cars. With that trend, for the first time, a vintage Jeep is judged for its originality and an authentic restoration. So, we're at a crossroads. What do you think about modifying a 1941-86 Jeep 4x4 for extreme trail use? Or are you considering a bolt-by-bolt restoration of a vintage Model MB, CJ-3B, an M38AI, FC150, FC170, Willys Pickup or Willys Station Wagon? Please share your plans and thoughts on this subject! Moses

Well, CJMall, that's a quick lesson...Use my article as a guide for teardown, inspection and reassembly. Tolerances are close and critical on the AX15. If you follow the steps and measurements, you should locate the problem. We're looking for a cause here, you want a specific problem to crop up. Check the synchro rings carefully for spacing/braking surface. The measurements on synchro ring gap indicate the wear degree. Also, be certain the correct rings are in use and at correct positions. We had a great deal of discussion about these synchro rings for the late Jeep TJ Wrangler AX15 transmissions. Review the discussions for details, especially this one and the threads and topics related to it: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/topic/57-ax-15-shifting-problem-after-rebuild/ In this exchange, I included an AX15 orientation done by a tech college instructor for a YouTube video. He did an excellent job of explaining how this (Toyota 150 or AX15) unit functions...Coupled with my 209-step how-to, you will have a good perspective for a quality rebuild. Here to answer any questions, CJMall. Moses

Joe, what you're really talking about here is physics. The higher chain points, understandably, will pull upward on the hitch to counter droop and excessive loading. The overall concern for me, however, is the rotational force applied to the truck's platform hitch and the vehicle frame. The OEM platform hitch is designed for load at the ball, which is calculated as being just outside the receiver—and not 24" outboard of the receiver. All of the force from mounting the ball outboard is "leveraged" against the OEM hitch and frame attachment points. If the chains are also attached to the bumper (or essentially the frame end), that's still rotational force applied and leveraged by the 24" extension ball mount. I would consult the company that manufactures the extension hitch and ask what impact all of this, including the higher chain support mounting points, will have on your truck's platform hitch, the rear of the truck frame and on the distribution point(s) for the load. They must have the engineering details and can comment on the design intent for that extension hitch. Please share your findings, JoeMac51. Others may be curious how to safely extend a hitch ball mount to compensate for an overhanging camper. Moses

Sounds like its worth the oil change. If that does not provide a cure, you can drain and strain that oil through fresh 100-mesh screen and use it again. 100-mesh is equivalent to vintage automatic transmission fluid guidelines. As long as the oil is still "new" enough and not scorched, it should maintain its quality properties. Your oil change will be telling, the results should be of value to members and guests... Moses

Now this is slick! Looks like AEV did its homework, too...The need for paint and minor body work could be timely if your 250K mile 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler is due for a paint job...You do need to consider axle gearing and a speedometer correction. There is one additional consideration with this approach: You will only gain the height advantage of the increased tire diameter. A bona fide suspension lift would raise the frame and body sill height plus improve the approach, break over and departure angles more than just the tire diameter increase. The AEV approach would effectively raise the axle centerlines by approximately 1.5" over stock (assuming a 30" diameter stock tire). Compare this to the typical 4" suspension lift required for the 33" tires on a Jeep TJ Wrangler. Definite AEV height gain at the axle housings, minimal gains elsewhere. Moses

Biggman100...I purchase most of my photographic and video camcorder products from B&H Photo and Video at New York City. I'm on the mailing list for new products and today received a flyer with this panoramic, camouflage outdoor wildlife camera included. What struck me is the claimed functionality and seemingly low price for such a device—if you need it. It does both still photography and video with audio: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/966494-REG/moultrie_mcg_12597_panoramic_game_camera_8_0.html?cm_mmc=EML-_-Newsletter_Newsletter-_-130910-_-Body_Retail_Panoramic-150-Trail-Camera Haven't put hands on one but thought you, other members and guests might find this interesting... Moses

CJMall, you're thinking like a transmission mechanic ("technician") now! There is a relationship between synchro action and rpm. And you're spot-on about the braking action of synchros. Also, as you hint, lubrication can make a difference here. I like Biggman100's research on the Redline and Amsoil alternatives. Again, refer to: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/topic/47-ax15-transmission-gear-oil/. These findings are in step with my skepticism about 10W-30 motor oil, or any motor oil for that matter, working in an EP lubricant environment. Note: When I researched oil options, Toyota's use of the AX15 (Aisin 150 in Toyota parlance) transmission came up with the GL-4 (and we can include the GL-5) findings—straight out of the factory workshop manuals for Toyota trucks like the Tacoma. I'm drawn to Toyota's findings, they've used Aisin transmissions forever and have huge numbers of these trucks in service. Before taking the transmission out, I would look into two possibilities: 1) the first being the lubricant, and 2) the clutch release. It's just possible that your clutch is not getting enough release throw. Simply put, the clutch is not releasing fully with the pedal depressed. This can happen with the Jeep TJ Wrangler when using aftermarket clutch parts. (Some clutch kits even come with a spacer/shim that fits between the clutch slave cylinder at the bellhousing and the Jeep TJ Wrangler's slave unit; this positions the slave piston to adjust the slave rod's travel.) Not sure which release bearing, disk and clutch cover you have or whether you had the flywheel resurfaced. Each can be a source of clutch release travel trouble. 3rd gear would seem suspect, too, but the long throw of the shifter between 2nd and 3rd can provide more time for gear synchronization or drop-off of shaft rpm. A quick check of the clutch pedal engagement point is to note how far off the floorboard the clutch begins to engage. If very little, you may not be getting full clutch disengagement with the pedal depressed. Try shifting 2nd and 4th with a conscious effort to push the pedal to the floorboard. On the Jeep TJ Wrangler, the hydraulic clutch ("linkage") travel is not adjustable other than the clutch pedal height (which can dictate slave travel). Check out the full clutch disengagement possibility...Also, a dragging clutch disk or pilot bearing can prevent the input gear from disengaging with the clutch pedal depressed. Binding or drag of any kind—like a bad pilot bearing, warped clutch disk, a misalignment of the transmission to bellhousing—can prevent complete input shaft disengagement when you depress the clutch pedal. Consider each of these possibilities before plunging into the AX15 transmission. This issue could still be internal to the AX15, but if your rebuilding shop/supplier is experienced, let's give them the benefit of the doubt for now...If it narrows to the transmission, we can discuss what to look for inside an AX15... We'll continue to assist! Moses

Hi, JJ_Jeep! Yes, this is a boon, as the worst aspect of typical "body lifts" is the relocation of so many critical items: radiator, all hoses and tubing, steering column angles and so forth...Post some photos, we'd all benefit from seeing what you have in mind! So, the only remaining issue would be your Jeep's axle gearing. If you had a 2.5L model with 4.10/4.11 gearing, that might suffice with the 33" tires. Since you have a 4.0L six, you may have 3.73s, and that could possibly work—especially if you do the 4.6L stroker engine build. If you have the 3.55 gearing or even taller like 3.08s, then there's no alternative but ring-and-pinion gearing changes. I would recommend at least 4.10 for 33" tires, 4.56s would not be overkill for planned trail use. Note: On our '99 XJ Cherokee, I could have done 4.56s but opted for the precise speedometer correction at 4.10 from stock 3.55. With the plethora of accessories and weighty items like big bumpers and a winch, the XJ could use the rpm boost. Peak torque is way above the cruise 2000 or so rpm! When I built the 4.0L for my son-in-law's former 2.5L YJ Wrangler, his existing 4.56 ratio gearing was retained for the 33" tires. He likes it a lot. I'd like to see 4.27 gear sets available, but the axle/pinion centerline and axle cavity size apparently eliminate this option. It would be nice to have an alternative to the 4.10 jump to 4.56. I also found this the case for the AAM 11.5" and 9.25" axles in the Dodge Ram 3500 and had to opt for 4.56 gearing—with a rationale that we're planning to tug a travel trailer around and will be content with a 65-68 mph ceiling for fuel efficiency when towing. Can go faster, just have to pay the price in diesel fuel consumption. Moses

JJ_Jeep, your idea of a "T" is excellent. Place the gauge anywhere between the reservoir and the check valve. Use engine vacuum as your source instead of a hand vacuum pump. When you shut off the engine, vacuum should hold for quite a while from the reservoir to the check valve! Note: Think of a vacuum circuit like a wiring circuit: continuity is continuity, and if there are no "opens" (i.e., leaks in the case of vacuum), the system is sealing. As for the cruise control, below is the factory wiring schematic for your '98 TJ Wrangler cruise control circuit. See if this answers any questions. If not, let me know what you need, I'll dig deeper. Wiring schematic for cruise control circuit on 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler, click on image to open up. (Courtesy Jeep/Chrysler) Moses

Hi, JJ_Jeep! One comment: If you want ground clearance gains at the axles, raising the axle centerlines (via tire diameter increase) is the only solution. The catch is that the "right" diameter tire necessitates a suspension and/or body lift kit. The chassis or body lift demand widening the track width to restore the center-of-gravity and roll center. The lift and oversized tires also lead to the rest of the trickle down effects—and required modifications like axle ratio changes, speedo correction, driveline angle issues, and so forth. It all starts with the intended use of the vehicle...When lifting, I much prefer a quality chassis/suspension lift. Moses

Wow, the Dakota looks great! What an opportunity for a "wish list" item...Presume you paid for the winch and add-ons, still a fantastic value for those with access to TAG and time to leave the vehicle! Thanks for sharing, Biggman100! Moses

This is the slickest thing! I saw the promotional video some time ago and sent links to industry colleagues. Your Grizzly looks "tough" and should work very nicely at that track width—versatile with that snow plow, too!...What a great product... What is the setup time for the Grizzly and these two trucks? Moses

The magazine chores get busy in the fall. This is our favorite season for filming trail runs, off-road travel and adventure, riding and filming with the dirt motorcycles and providing support for community service projects. Fall means cooler weather for us, colors changing in the high country, hunting and fishing pursuits and more four-wheeling activities. Before winter arrives in our Eastern Sierra region, the four-wheel drive and OHV communities get outdoors and active! Additionally, there are 4x4 events and industry gatherings. For those interested in where we will be and when, here is our Fall 2013 event schedule. September-October: Outdoor filming at northern Nevada, including the wild horses, high country and remote deserts. October 4th-6th, we will be covering the Lucas Oil Off-Road Expo, Pomona, California in HD video. November: Last of our seasonal access to the higher country, still accessing single- and two-track travel as we move into the time for the SEMA/AAPEX Shows at Las Vegas. We'll be covering these shows in HD video the week of November 4th to 8th, traveling from the Reno/Fernley area on November 4th and returning the 8th, on the show floors the 5th through the 7th—possibly the morning of the 8th if the action demands it! For the balance of November, the magazine's technical projects get attention... December: As we begin to hunker down for winter, the amount of snow in the higher country dictates our outdoor filming and photography activities. We'll stay busy diving into the magazine's mechanical projects as we approach the holidays and end of the year! Moses

Many of us have workshop "habits" we've picked up that could be helpful to others. Sometimes its an easier way to perform mechanical repairs or a welding task, other times it has to do with space-saving techniques and approaches that give you more shop floor space. Is there a piece of equipment that has made a real difference and proven its worth? A way to keep the shop cooler or warmer that saves energy and cost? Safer ways to lift a vehicle and work beneath it? What saves time or makes a difference when you perform routine or specialized work? Let us know, everyone wants to improve shop efficiency! Your how-to insights would be helpful to others! Moses

Many of us know what 4WD or OHV products we would like to get next. As we move into fall and the perfect season for dirt motorcycle and ATV riding, or taking an SUV or 4x4 into the changing seasons at the backcountry, there are many items that make our wish list. Whether you're thinking about four-wheel drive accessories or aftermarket products to enhance your outdoor lifestyle, please share with us! We'd all like to know what others have discovered or find most useful for traveling to distant destinations and into the backcountry, including camping, hunting, fishing and overall recreational pursuits! Moses

There are many suspension lift kits available for Jeep, 4WD truck and SUV models. Pricing can be shopped online, through catalogs and at local retailers. A wild card, however, is how much it will cost in labor time to have a shop install that lift kit. Or for that matter, a winch, armor, ARB Air Lock, an exhaust upgrade, you name it! The magazine's 2005 Ram 3500 Quad Cab 4WD sports a Mopar lift kit, Warn front bumper and M12000 winch, Mopar drop down running boards and a number of other accessories. I performed all of the work on this truck and would be glad to comment candidly on any labor involved. Does anyone have a "flat rate" schedule they would like to share with viewers? This would really help consumers make an informed decision when estimating the cost of modifying their 4x4 vehicles. If you installed a lift kit or accessories yourself, can you share your vehicle type and the labor time it took to install these products—and what kind of tools and equipment were necessary? Thanks! Moses

We're all in the habit of running with a thread...Kind of fun at times, the discussion gets lively! We'll take time to start new topics when we drift off-topic...I'm working on it! Moses