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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Great to see your participation, I've had a strong pull toward Toyota 4x4s since crawling the Rubicon Trail alongside an FJ40 in 1967. The Toyota 4WD trucks and SUVs are tops, maintaining their popularity and high standards to this day...We'll have fun discussing Toyota 4x4s of every kind! Moses
  2. Good tips, XJ4Ever! Enjoy your enthusiasm and loyalty to these XJ beasties! They have their endearing quirks, and the right front cluster switch #56009512AC for our '99 XJ Cherokee 4WD, LHD, four-door is one of them. Mopar OEM retail is very pricey: $274! Best OEM/Mopar price online: $188.60 plus shipping at http://www.factorymoparparts.com/56009512ac.html. Likely a scarcity thing, as this narrows down to the combination power windows, door locks and mirrors options, each interacting with this controller switch...Find the other three door switches readily in the aftermarket, not this one
  3. Got my attention, Mark! If my plated dual-sport is available, what do you think of HD video coverage on the Jarbidge to Gerlach run! Logistics and details can be worked out...What a plan, what great country to cover...GoPro Hero3 with a helmet mic on the cycle, I'm ready! Fall is incredible across the region, I hunted Areas 6 and 7 in the '90s, the Santa Rosas above Hinkey Summit in the early '70s and know the Sheldon Antelope Range, Kings River Valley and the Black Rock. Did Leonard Lake in a jon boat during the early '70s, mounted the boat atop a Kaiser era V-6 Jeepster, traveled wit
  4. On a Memorial Day weekend a few years back, we joined up with Mark and the Reno 4x4 and Hills Angels folks. I have archival scenic photos from that outing. The aspen and Basque ovens make for great photography, panoramic vantages from Granite Peak as well! These club members are great to 'wheel with... High Rock Canyon ranks high on our list of "destination" four-wheeling trips, we travel there with family and "new-to-four-wheeling" friends. I plan to do High Rock soon on a plated, "true dirt" dual-sport motorcycle, in response to growing interest in dirt dual-sport motorcycling. Been
  5. Mark, I have your photos and fuel supply system in perspective, thanks... As for TIG or welding the "dinner" plate to the top of the Aero tank for reinforcement, you're right about mild steel and corrosion around fuel. Two options here: 1) galvanizing the tank, if possible and practical, after welding the plate in place or 2) have the radiator shop treat the tank with chemical liner for fuel. This coating is a common process that McCarran Radiator at Sparks has done for me on vintage, rare fuel tanks. If you have something going with A-1, ask about coating the inside of the tank. I
  6. Hi, Pete! Doesn't sound promising...Beyond a U-joint, which is a possibility, this sounds more like a differential issue. Since you were on the pavement and in high range of the transfer case, it is very unlikely that the transfer case is involved. I'd jack the rear axle up after safely chocking the front wheels. Try one side up first. With one wheel off the ground, rotate the wheel/tire back and forth while listening for the "bark" or metallic clanging. Concentrate on the differential area and U-joints. Slanting to one wheel off the ground will maximize the play through the differen
  7. Mark...Understand the priming time, the OEM pump cycle is short, expecting the fuel to flow readily. With a new pump and filter, and a new regulator, this should be less of an issue. As for the pump #52018391P, not sure about the "P", but this is a 1991-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler 4.0L pump that should work with your Mopar EFI conversion. Common Walbro replacement pump pressure can be 45 PSI or so with 21 GPH flow, still adequate for your 4.6L fuel demands. Be careful when ordering, the typical Walbro replacement pump under this number (without the "P") is just that—a pump only. You need t
  8. Hi, Mark...You have been busy! Regarding your photo bucket links, I simply copied and pasted the links from your Email...Below are your photo bucket links and definitions for the shots. I have answered your post questions below these links, so scroll down further: ******************** the temp fix http://s2.photobucket.com/user/RARECJ8/media/homestead2012075_zps8e8b348d.jpg.html pump pulled from tank http://s2.photobucket.com/user/RARECJ8/media/homestead2012096_zps490457d4.jpg.html bottom of pick up sock http://s2.photobucket.com/user/RARECJ8/media/homestead2012097_zpsbf8ce78
  9. I posted a topic at the welding and metal fabrication forum on one way to restore a bore in a stamped steel piece: "Weld Mold 26-C 'How-to' Oxy-Acetylene Repair: Restoring a Stretched Bore in Stamped Steel". In that 'how-to', I mention heat treated metals and also refer forum members to one of the magazine's slideshow video presentations. The slideshow discusses a major concern when welding, brazing or silver brazing (hard silver soldering) near heat treated parts. Many automotive parts, especially wear points like gear teeth, shafts, splines, thrust washers and running surfaces, have be
  10. I just completed a shop project worth sharing. An older suspension arm made of stamped steel (mid-'50s vintage) had a ball-joint bore issue. The lower ball-joint was originally a thread-in style—classic Mopar with torsion bar suspension, and the replacement ball-joint is a press-in type. These ball-joints are at the loaded arm, so press-in can work well if the fit is correct. The upper arm uses a threaded, OEM style replacement joint. The lower arms had the ball-joints replaced years ago, and the method called for pressing new, unthreaded ball-joints into the original control arm threads
  11. This is a wonderful posting, XJ4Ever! The right side power switch is currently defective on our '99 XJ Cherokee Sport 4-door, and this means the right window will not go down, the remote power door lock key fob will not activate the power locks, and the passenger has lost control of all switch functions. The wiring schematics are different for the two-door models and so are the symptoms for the switch failures. I need to get after that switch, I've already done the window lift motors and cable assemblies...both driver and passenger front. The comment about factory routing of wires at th
  12. Interesting trip to a favorite haunt, the Black Rock/High Rock country!...Some background on Mark's CJ-8, this vehicle has been featured at the magazine in HD videos with its Hewes Performance built 4.6L stroker six. Mark had a Mopar EFI Conversion on the original 4.2L inline six, and he moved that equipment over to a fresh 4.6L stroker long block. (Click on the link to enjoy the HD videos detailing Mark's engine and the CJ-8!) Just prior to the start of the forums, Mark and I talked about tuning issues, and there was a hint of fuel supply troubles from his symptoms...The engine uses t
  13. There's a loyal following for many of the "adventure-touring" motorcycles, cycles like the KTM 990 Adventure or BMW F800GS and 1200GS. On the other hand, many dirt bike riders are now turning to "plated" dirt bikes, bridging the gap between asphalt and a desert enduro bike. Do we need to draw a literal "line in the sand" about what makes a legitimate off-pavement motorcycle? I have ridden this '84 XR350R for nearly two decades and also own an '84 XR500R. Despite growing parts availability issues, these bikes are failsafe mounts for open desert riding. For the magazine's 2012 King of the Ha
  14. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injec
  15. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information
  16. Sooner or later, every AMC/Jeep inline six cylinder engine will require a rear main seal replacement. Forum member JayDLogan and I had this Q&A exchange just prior to the start of the forums. This should benefit others and will continue here at the forum: Jason: I am installing a new rear main seal in my 1999 jeep wrangler 4.0L. I am a bit confused on where to put the sealant. I have attached a few photos. I am using mopar anaerobic sealant, is this correct? The sealant should not be on the bearing cap mating surfaces, right? My understanding is to use sealant along the full length of th
  17. Jason, I would have been okay even with your first 0.006"-0.008" clearance. Optimal tolerance for used parts is 0.004"-0.010", measured between the built-in output shaft thrust and the 3rd speed gear. A true, square gear read of 0.003" is actually fine. What you describe as a "low spot" would be called a "high spot": You get a 0.003" read all around and 0.004" at all points except a small section with a high spot—meaning that at that point the thrust to gear face gap is tighter due to something protruding at 0.001" or slightly less. Make sense? Actually, I don't think you have a high spot
  18. Jason did a thorough job of identifying the features of a late (1999) Aisin AX15 transmission used in the Jeep Wrangler. Jason, your photos are very detailed and helpful, and I posted them at the new topic I started yesterday, discussing the 3rd-4th gear synchronizer differences. Click here to see the new topic post and Jason's photos. My two cents worth: If the transmission has never been apart before and shifted normally to this point (aside from wear factors requiring the current rebuild) then match up the synchronizer rings, the sleeve and the gears to exactly the OEM layout. Do so
  19. There has been a long thread of exchanges at Timmy960's topic on harsh shifting after rebuilding an AX15 transmission. The problem around 3rd/4th gear shift issues has a basis in the redesign of the synchronizer sleeve, bronze blocking rings and the third gear cog teeth for the sleeve engagement. Jason Logan and I had an exchange about this issue when he rebuilt his '99 TJ Wrangler unit. That exchange was just prior to the launch of the forums. For the benefit of all AX15 rebuilders, I am starting a new topic around this issue, beginning with the in-depth Q&A exchange that Jason Logan
  20. Hi, Tim...There are two photos here, each looks like an original, worn brass ring. The one at the right shows the plates/keys cutting away at the brass. The damaged ring was rotating considerably. What was the condition of the plates/keys at the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer? The ring at the right has straight "arrow" shaped teeth; the ring at left has offset/angled teeth. The ring at the right should be 4th gear for your later, 1999 AX15 unit. Correct? Since I cannot see the new ring (please upload the third photo), I'm not able to determine whether the new bronze ring has straight
  21. Postscript on GARYT's comment...If the 3rd gear has one kind of ramp design, and the synchronizer ring has another, this could cause an issue as Gary suggests...Tim, do your remember the design of your AX15's 3rd gear cog teeth: an angled ramp or arrow-shaped? Do you recall the design of the 3rd gear bronze ring teeth: either angled teeth or arrow-shaped teeth? Moses
  22. Tim, we're each being thoughtful about the AX15. The aim is to make rebuilds perform as new—perhaps better. Gary and I have batted ideas back and forth about improvements to the 1st/2nd synchro and sleeve assembly. 3rd/4th has presented less of an issue, though there is the puzzling Aisin changeover to the angled 3rd gear cog ramps and bronze synchro ring tooth shape...This indicates something inherently challenging about the 3rd gear shift. You are spot on with your detent analysis if each gear position produces a shift lever feel of "holding" when the lever is in the selected gear position
  23. Agreed, Gary...See the YouTube video: In this video (above), an instructor at Weber State University shares the gear functions of a manual transmission and synchronizers. For the benefit of AX15 builders, the demonstration unit just happens to be a Toyota version (A150) of the AX15 transmission...As Gary notes, and you all will see within this instructor's 24-minute video, the synchronizer sleeve for 1st/2nd gear does not engage the 1st and 2nd gear cogs as deeply as the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer sleeve engages the 3rd/4th gear cogs during shifts. Although the view is not as clear,
  24. Gary, welcome to the forums! Thanks for providing AX15 parts photos...Tim talks about a 3rd gear downshift problem. Your photos suggest that Aisin may have addressed a downshift to 3rd gear problem. The angle cut you describe and share in your photos would engage the shift sleeve differently. This would allow easier engagement on the downshift from 4th to 3rd. From a practical standpoint, either ring would work, as they each engage the sleeve troughs accurately (taking a straight-on view). The difference is that the angled ring teeth would engage the sleeve with a different pressure and
  25. Wayman, from what I saw, there is really no need for J-B Weld. If you just smooth out the casting "flash" and leave a solid casting, you'll be in good shape. Do not remove structural material. The oil transfer hole at the timing cover area of the block should simply require shaping the rough flashing edges to reduce risk of sloughing. I saw no point in adding J-B Weld. What's your thought there? To provide some peace of mind, I found this definition of casting "flash" to help you better understand the issue: http://www.abymc.com/tmoranwms/Casting_Defects.html Trust this is help
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