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Alberto_YJ

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About Alberto_YJ

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cartagena, Colombia - South America
  1. Fortunately the issue has been cured, had to replace the vent line, didn't find a steel one, so I had to put copper tubing instead of steel. Regarding the canister please see attached picture taken from under the vehicle. I still have an issue with the carb bowl getting empty after I let it sit over night. Any suggestion to fix this? (Return line from the filter is already on top, carb has been rebuilt - al gaskets replaced) thanks.
  2. Hi Moses, Ironically the first thing I did was to replace the fuel filter, assuming that it was restricted to the carburetor. After finding the gas tank vent line clogged I deducted that all the extra pressure from gasoline vapors was traveling backwards to the filter throught the return line, then the vapor lock occurred. After disconecting the vent hose from the steel line that goes to the canister I've noted that the pump is not getting dry anymore and next issue was the New fuel filter, it seems to be defective, fortunatelly I was keeping the old one and after putting it back the prob
  3. UPDATE: After dropping the tank found that it is kind of collapsed from the bottom, put some heat with a heat gun and it straighten itself, but when it coola down it will go back to the same shape. No clogging in the pickup tube. Today I was thinking about the pressure when open the gas cap and thought that maybe the tank is not venting, I was right. The steel line to the canister is completely blocked. I've disconected the hose coming from the tee at top of the tank but now it seems like the fuel filter is restricted. I can't blow by when I plug the return outlet. Is there
  4. Hello people, I've had a hard time traveling in my YJ. Everything was ok until I stoped by a grocery store. The engine have been having some abnormal behavior, I've been smelling fuel when I shut off the engine and step out of the jeep, when the tank is not full (say 1/4 of the tank) and I open the gas tank cap it releives a lot of pressure. If I let the jeep sitting overnight, next day will give a hard starting and I have noticed that the carb bowl seems to be empty, as I can see there are no squirts when the pedal is pumping. Now, regarding the day it completely failed, it was
  5. Well, actually the CAT product is not a cleaner, it is a coolant but what my friend says is that it is more aggressive as it is intended for heavy duty engines. I know they have cleaners but he's suggesting a coolant the will remove the mud slowly, from what I'm understanding. Not sure which part number is my friend suggesting from CAT but I could say is something like this one: https://parts.cat.com/wcs-static/pdfs/PEHJ0067-02.pdf Here is the link to the site describing different types of flushing procedures. http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm Regarding the equip
  6. Thank you for your input Moses. A friend of mine is suggesting to use Caterpillar cooling fluid mixed with water and run the vehicle for a week and then flush out all the removed particles. I've been reading different techniques for flushing the cooling system, finding that there is one that uses a pump to make the flushing fluid to circulate during several hours and all the particulated material to be trapped in a bucket. Is there any home product that can be added to the system to start the mud removal process? Or any base chemical? I will look around the city to see what kin
  7. Hi Moses, over two months and finally got a borrowed thermograph meter. I've tried to get the best angles but there were too many things around the engine so not all the block surfaces were that easy to take a picture of. Please let me know if you can diagnose something from the pictures attached. Regards.
  8. Hi, I've been dealing with an overheating behavior in my YJ 1989 Wrangler (4.2L with all emissions control hooked up except pulse air system, Carter BBD, Auto Trans). Long time ago I've replaced cooling fluid, It was 100% tap water that is the worst choice due to corrosion; so I decided to replace it by an ethylene glycol mix as you can find them ready to pour into your cooling system. I don't know if the coolant was poor quality but immediately after replacing the fluid I was getting the engine overheated. Perhaps it was air trapped in the system as the guy replacing the coolant did all the p
  9. Moses, thanks for your input. I've done the test you describe in low range, the pitch and noise is barely the same. The output shaft bearing has been replaced yesterday with no improvement. Tomorrow we will replace the sprag and see how does it go. I will keep you all posted. Regards.
  10. Hello Moses, I`ve taken the YJ to a workshop so we can try to identify the noise. The noise is coming from the rear end. We have tested the tranny without the transfer case to discard the transfer case as a source of the noise. The noise is only present after the tranny shifts to 3rd gear and remains if you shift to neutral until the inertia keeps the shaft turning, But if you shift manually to 2nd gear the noise stops. We have tried with another planetary gear set but the noise is still present, tomorrow we will try the complete annular and center pinion and shell set to see if it is an ex
  11. Moses, Distributor cap and rotor are brand new, Cables installed are medium quality, I will look for a quality cable set as all I was getting was cheap cables that will work the same as the ones I got installed. All spark plugs were replaced and I got like 10.000 miles on that set. Regarding the compression I do not know as I don't have the gage to do so, I will see if I can find a workshop with the equipment to make a complete test (Are you thinking I could have a gasket or valve issue?). The single fuel rich spark plug came off of the #1 Cylinder and it was during the tunning process, I
  12. Hi Everybody, I've set the carburetor as specified in the service manual, actually the only setting off was the vacum piston lifter setting, that was too high I think. Timing was too advanced as I was following the timing marks in the wrong way, I was taking each slot as one degree, actually the scale goes from 0 to 24 degrees, resulting in something like 4 degrees per mark with a small one in between, corresponding to 2 degrees. I read that retarding the base timing to zero and adding some alcohol based octane booster would help to reduce emissions, Did that and took the YJ to be inspect
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