Moses Ludel

Your motivation and thoroughness is highly commendable, 2point5liter! What an undertaking, you obviously like electrical work. Some would consider this a deal breaker, you're taking it all in stride. So, the wiring restoration and then the ECU itself? There's an outfit at Idaho (Module Masters) that does module rebuilding and restoration, perhaps they can tackle a fuel-and-spark management computer. There may be other sources for rebuilt ECUs. I'd like to know what you do with the ECU if that turns out to be the trouble spot. Keep the grounds in mind, this is D.C.! On project vehicles, I upgrade all engine-to-chassis-to-body grounds with 1/0 cable and industrial terminal connections. Grounds: the other half of a D.C. circuit. Good connections, no corrosion "wicking" and no paint barriers! Moses

You're welcome, hertfordnc! Once you start driving this way, it becomes habit. "In the day", I tested a lot of trucks for magazines and newspapers, we were always about performance, mileage came under discussion in passing. Today, mileage is a topic of interest for all but a few! Bigger exhaust and cold intake do offer gains, although fuel mileage improvements might be incremental when considering the way we're both driving these trucks. There's a caveat here: Why would a vehicle manufacturer, bent on meeting CAFE standards for fleet and seeking fuel efficiency bragging rights, consciously avoid mileage gain strategies? Packaging a vehicle does face constraints and tradeoffs, and maybe bigger or space consuming improvements like you mention simply will not fit, or they create assembly challenges. Exhaust being "bigger", unless scavenging gains are clear, has little impact beyond irritating your neighbors when you come home late at night. Loud exhaust tones have you idling out of the neighborhood when your trip begins before dawn. As proof in my case, I got the best mileage to date with a stone stock truck. The Hypertech Energy Max programmer was to offset the downside of a chassis lift (the increased frontal drag) and nearly 1200 pounds of really neat accessories and auxiliary fuel now on board that is equivalent to pulling a tent trailer all the time. The truck runs fantastically, but the power is now further up the rpm scale with peak torque around 2100 rpm. Just the increase from a stock 1600-1900 rpm sweet spot to accomplishing the same road speed at a higher rpm (thank 4.56 gears for this) is enough to burn extra fuel. In fairness, this was not anywhere near an apples for apples test, the truck has too many changes to draw comparisons from stock. So, when it comes to fuel efficiency versus "performance", Chrysler and Cummins did a good job on these trucks. Driven like a "truck" and not a county fair puller, you can get good mileage. I had the 3.73 gears with the stock tires and did very well for overall fuel efficiency, hauling ability and performance. Keep driving on your best behavior and see what this package can do for fuel mileage. You may be at peak or near peak right now...At least you'll have a true benchmark with this consistent driving style. If you can get 22-23 mpg at reasonable road speeds, that's about it, frankly. My best of 25 mpg was at 55-65 mph, empty, stock curb weigh, no lift kit or auxiliary fuel tank, and holding engine speed precisely between 1600-1900 rpm. Interestingly, that trip included mountain passes, so the mileage was apparently influenced more by engine rpm than load. Moses

2point5liter...Is your MIL lamp (Engine Check light) glowing? Any codes thrown here? Other than an ECU failure, OBD can offer some insight, especially an O2 or other sensor issues. With the flooding you describe, this sounds bigger than an O2 problem, which at worst would throw the system into limp home mode. That mode or WOT mode would run rich but not deliver the excess of fuel you're describing here. A repetitive code could be insightful, and that's the reason for storing codes. The only code that never seems to appear is a failing ECU. The microprocessor has trouble troubleshooting itself. Stored codes can be picked up with anything from a simple code reader to a DRB or equivalent scan tool. This system is not OBD-II, however, so there's a limit to its diagnostic and troubleshooting capabilities. Moses

You're on the right track, 2point5liter. The fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is spring counterbalance pressure, and you need the correct spring and regulator adjustment. At these forums, we've discussed aftermarket regulators with "unusual" springs and pressure feedback. Members often return to the OEM spring to get the right pressure. In any case, this is confirmed with a pressure gauge at the regulator. The regulated pressure should range within spec. See our forum discussions about 2.5L pressure needs and tests. All of this could point to a dying ECU. I like your methodical approach, though, as the "parts replacement" strategy should only follow known defective parts. You're systematically eliminating faults and gradually narrowing to the wiring or the ECU. Get the fuel pressure on spec before moving to the wiring and ECU. If that doesn't do it, wiring next, then a rebuilt ECU. Moses

From what you describe, this is the injector pulse. The 6V range is normal, as the feed is 12V. The ECU wants to provide a ground pulse, and the switching of current is approximately 1/2 the 12VDC. Think of an alternator and its wave form. Do check the connector just to be sure the leads are separated. Otherwise, the ECU and wiring sound okay now, and you may have "cured" that problem according to the new voltage readings. You may have a defective injector or regulator setting. Run pressure tests at the TBI input port with a "T" fitting and port plugs for the various hookups. If pressure is high, make sure pump pressure is normal and that the return line to the tank is unrestricted for the full volume of returning fuel (not just "I can blow through it"). Narrow the troubleshooting down systematically, making sure the regulator and injector work properly and at correct settings. You can hook a timing light to #1 cylinder spark lead and "watch" the cone spray with the timing light focused on the throttle bore of the injector with the engine running (however briefly before the engine floods). The pattern should be conical and smooth. If not, and especially if it looks like a non-atomized, distorted stream from the nozzle, there's an issue here. The timing light view of the pattern is a quick troubleshooting measure. It sounds like you've made progress with this wire repair, there was a clear voltage drop before the latest readings. Splices should be woven wire strands with rosin core solder and double thicknesses of heat shrink insulation tubing...Good job, keep us posted! Moses

Stearnsm...Nice steering conversion for your '58 CJ. Brilliant solution for the Koenig PTO winch obstacle...If these parts are accessible, your approach makes good sense for others. The later AMC era CJs and Wranglers (Cherokees and other models, too) use a Saginaw gear. The full-size GM passenger car and light truck Saginaw units have also been popular. Advance Adapters makes a mounting kit with pitman arm and a one-piece tie-rod for the pre-1972 CJs. Your approach is helpful for those with access to these parts. If pursuing the swap with a popular GM/Saginaw passenger car or full truck steering gear (manual as well as power type), check out the detailed Advance Adapters booklet for the conversion: Advance Adapters Steering Conversion.pdf. Here is the actual kit that Advance Adapters offers: http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716806a--jeep-1942-1970-power-steering-kit-borgeson-style/ The steering column adaptation or a retrofit steering column and steering wheel are options. Study the swap before chasing down parts. I like the Bronco and Scout 4x4 steering ratios on the gears that Stearnsm describes. My favorite generic Saginaw power gear is the 4-turns (lock-to-lock) GM big car Saginaw unit. I have used 4-turn gears on Land Cruiser FJ40 and Jeep 4x4 buildups. The slower ratio is very powerful and avoids overly quick steering. On a short wheelbase CJ, fast steering ratios ("sprint car feel") can be a hazard. Moses

Hi, Marklowe73, and welcome to the forums. These manuals are copyrighted, and I won't copy whole sections from a copyrighted book. I can help with Mopar part numbers and parts illustrations and suggest that you look through the 209-step article(s) at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-1-Disassembly-Inspection.html Although an AX15 project, there are some similarities between the AX5 and AX15. You still need to follow a shop manual and parts list for the AX5. Over my career, I have purchased new or used factory workshop manuals for each vehicle I've owned and for all of my research. I have four bookcases stacked with OE manuals and licensed reprint books. If you plan to keep your Jeep, consider buying a used shop manual from a supplier of used automotive books (eBay, Faxon and so forth.) The AX5 was popular in 1987-up YJ Wranglers and into the TJ era. A used Mopar manual should be readily available. If you have trouble finding your specific year/model shop manual and need help determining the year range for books that will cover your Jeep, please share the year and model. I'll break this out to clusters of years that will work. Do any members have a used manual for sale? Let's help Marklowe73 get a service manual. Trust this helps... Moses

In my two replies, my concern is that taller gearing, in this case 3.42:1, might actually cause a drop in fuel efficiency due to more turbo boost and fuel flow needed to power the load, whether the truck is towing or empty. In my first reply, I indicated the mileage drop that resulted from 3.73 gears and 35" tires, something like a change to 3.42 gears with stock diameter tires. Mileage was lower for both trailer pulling and when running empty. Mileage was off because the engine worked harder and used more boost/fuel despite the lower crankshaft speed. I added the information on Gear Vendors overdrive to show how you can keep your existing 3.73:1 axle gearing yet have an additional overdrive. The Gear Vendors is a 22% overdrive, which would be the same as dropping 2000 rpm down to 1560 rpm. You would still have the 3.73:1 gears when needed and could use all of your current transmission gears plus split-shifting between these gears. The links to the Gear Vendors information includes an explanation of the torque gains when split shifting. As for the late trucks with 3.42:1 axle ratios, these models also have a six-speed manual transmission. The transmission gear ratios differ from your NV5600 transmission. 2003 NV5600 Dodge Ram transmission ratios: 1ST 5.63 2ND 3.38 3RD 2.04 4TH 1.39 5TH 1.00 6TH 0.73 REVERSE 5.63 2014 Ram Truck 6.7L Cummins with G56 Six-Speed Transmission Ratios: 1st 5.94 2nd 3.28 3rd 1.98 4th 1.31 5th 1.0 6th 0.74 Reverse 5.42 Axle ratios 3.42, 3.73 On the 2014 Ram with 3.73 or 3.42 axle gearing, the first gear ratio is slightly lower than your '03 NV5600, frankly not enough to impose an excess load if you do change to 3.42 axle gearing. If tire diameters are the same, you might "get by" with the 3.42 gears, although your engine torque is not as high as either my '05 HO engine or the 6.7L late model engine. (Your engine's torque peak is 555 lb-ft if an HO engine; SO engines were only 460 lb-ft. Confirm which engine you have here, Hertfordnc.) The 6.7L and my '05 5.9L HO each produce 610 lb-ft torque maximum. If you do have less engine torque, the 3.42 axle gearing could be too tall. The engine would labor, boost would go up, and you could lose mileage rather than gain it. 3.73 is fairly tall gearing for a 1-ton truck; 3.42 is even taller and requires more torque. Assuming that you don't tow much and can use the gears properly, the truck might tolerate 3.42 axle gearing. You would be working the transmission's lower gears more and downshifting more frequently. Even running empty, my gut choice would be 3.73 axle gearing for a truck of this weight and stock tire diameter. The tallest factory geared, manual transmission truck I owned was a '73 GM K10 4x4 SWB pickup with 3.08s and a 350 gasoline V-8. It did not have an overdrive, and the SM465 transmission's 1st gear ratio was 6.55:1 with a 1:1 fourth gear. The truck did deliver decent fuel efficiency and even tolerated 33" diameter tires. Starts in second gear (3.58:1) were possible when running empty or a lighter load. When empty, that truck was at least 1500 pounds lighter than your Ram 3500 dually 4x4. There's also another way to simulate taller gearing, and this might be a consideration: Change to a larger diameter tire. Without lifting the truck as I did to install 34.6" diameter tires, you could step up with a tire that will fit the stock rims and still clear the fender wells without the need for a chassis lift. Pick the right tire, and this could be a subtle change that would drop engine rpm some. Tire clearance with the body and frame would set the limit on tire size. You would need to recalibrate the speedometer to compensate, and this is a function in the PCM under ABS module. If you're curious about Ram truck speedometer calibration, see my video coverage at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Dodge-Ram-Speedometer-Calibration.html. I also talk about how to determine speedometer error in another video. While a dealership can calibrate the speedometer with a DRB-III scan tool, many aftermarket engine management programmer kits have a speedometer calibration function as well. I can calibrate for tire diameter with the Hypertech Max Energy programmer (see details at the magazine). Moses

Good job...Cap off the ports and check the canister for vacuum seal before installing, DogpawSlim... Moses

As a footnote, you benchmarked 1900 rpm at 72 mph as a possible target goal for fuel efficiency, Hertfordnc. We're all familiar with "lugging" an engine, and under load and weight, that 1900 rpm could demand considerable turbo-boost to achieve 72 mph. We also need to look at boost curves, since loading the engine triggers turbo boost and injector flow, which directly bears on fuel efficiency...A boost gauge would clarify the function of turbocharger boost under load. Keep in mind that our engines are not just diesels, they are turbo-diesels that derive considerable power under boost. This requires more fuel, though, as there's no such thing as a free ride. The assumption is that a properly gated and meted boost will help performance and fuel efficiency if not abused. To maintain proper air/fuel ratios under boost, however, does require more fuel to match the additional, compressed air. Moses

When checking these voltages, where was the TPS (throttle position sensor) setting? Have you checked the calibration on the TPS? Injector pulse width looks for a TPS signal. Try testing the TPS voltages, using the factory settings for the various throttle positions. Let's see if the TPS is functioning properly. You said earlier that the TPS is "good" and tests within range. Is that while considering the actual angle of the throttle valve? If you're experiencing a "voltage drop" anywhere, that is as likely to be ground related as hot lead with a 12VDC system. The ECU completes the injector ground. If there is resistance or an open in this ground circuit, you would experience a voltage drop or low reading as you hint. Moses

Hertfordnc...I followed a similar logic when 35" tires and a lift kit gave my wonderfully fuel thrifty '05 3500 an "overdriving" effect. I harbored the illusion that the 3.73 gears with these new tires (similar to your current tires and 3.42 gearing) would possibly improve the mileage! My first real experiment was pulling a toy hauler to the King of the Hammers Race at Johnson Valley, CA in 2012. To that point, I had speedometer error and other challenges that kept me from seeing the light. The trailer was the capper, though. I had formerly pulled our XJ Cherokee on the car hauling trailer (open deck) to Moab and saw the mileage with the stock truck and 3.73 gears go from consistent 22-plus mpg running empty down to 17 mpg at interstate speeds (to 70 mph) and 6% grades while pulling the trailer. I thought this was enough mileage drop until I tried the 35" tires with the 3.73s! Towing the trailer loaded (8,500 pounds approximately) at mostly 55-60 mph, the mileage dropped to 10-12 mpg. This did include the grades along U.S. 395 and on I-15, so we're certainly not talking about "flatland" towing. Nonetheless, this was the worst mileage I have ever experienced with our Dodge Ram 3500. I switched my thinking to trailer towing needs and our anticipated use of a travel trailer. The gearing choices at the time were 4.10 or 4.56, nothing in between, with 4.10 being somewhat close to OE with the stock tires and 3.73 gears. A true "correction" gearing would have been more like 4.30:1, which AAM axles did not offer at that time. (They do now.) So, I opted for 4.56 gears with the pledge that I would gear for 65-69 mph or approximately 2000-2100 rpm. This rpm was slightly high for stock but consistent with the Hypertech Max Energy program I installed at the same time. 1980 rpm is the sweet spot now for keeping up with traffic and still getting reasonable fuel efficiency. I pulled a 9,000 pound trailer over the I-8 grade from La Mesa, CA to the Anza-Borrego Desert this winter and managed 14-15 mpg, very respectable considering the load and a series of mountain passes. So, my guess is that 3.42 gears won't cut it, and you will be using all five gears on a regular basis! Mileage will likely drop off. In perspective, a friend just bought a new manual transmission 2014 Ram 2500 4x4, and it came with 3.42 gears and a six-speed. He's thrilled so far, and we'll keep tabs on his success with this tall gearing. Oversized tires would naturally be out of the question, even with the 6.7L engine. The 6.7L engine has a catalytic converter and urea downstream system. Arguably, the 6.7L will not "outperform" our 5.9L engines, which came stock with no cat or urea system. My '05 HO rated 325 (some say 305) horsepower and 610 lb-ft torque in stock form. I have considered a Gear Vendors overdrive behind the transfer case. I have a 140.5" wheelbase and single piece rear driveshaft that could be readily shortened to accommodate the overdrive. Here is a listing for our trucks: https://www.gearvendors.com/ag4x4.html. Though pricey, the overdrive/underdrive would be like going to taller gearing while retaining the current axle ratios as well. Another distinct advantage is gear or torque splitting with this overdrive...Here is more Gear Vendors info for the Dodge Ram trucks: https://www.gearvendors.com/d2wd4s.html. Photo Courtesy of Gear Vendors Some things to ponder, Hertfordnc! Moses

DogpawSlim...I appreciate your ground source suggestions for Joshua, thanks! I was busy on the Rubicon Trail this weekend, taking HD video for the Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event, and I missed your comments. If you have more questions, Joshua, we can go from here... As for emission EVAP canisters, they have always been a replacement item and non-rebuildable. Carbon inside, gasoline vapors and all, this is a volatile product to handle if defective, and nobody wants a defective core! You should be able to buy a new canister, and following the tests that we discussed, the canister does sound defective. The 4WD aftermarket should offer this part. If you do need a part number for the original Mopar item, I can help. Glad you replaced the ECU, that was the remaining signal for your solenoid. It really did come down to no other item left on the troubleshooting list, and you got a positive result. Good job! Moses

First of all, thanks much for joining our discussion. The more folks who share their real world experiences, the better. All of us will gain in the long run. To begin, I've learned that the only valid mileage check is actual gallons used versus the miles traveled. The odometer must be accurate, and that should be checked separately from the speedometer. I emphasize this because we're all inclined to think that an accurate speedometer calibration automatically means an accurate odometer reading. It doesn't always work that way. The easiest and least expensive odometer check is the official five-mile test on an interstate or highway that has accurate markers in place. If you can hold the throttle (cruise control helps) steady at 60 mph, this can also be a quick speedometer check: At 60 mph, each mile should be exactly one minute on your watch's second hand. Once you have the odometer's accuracy confirmed, you can check fuel mileage by accurate fuel fill-ups. The factory digital mileage meter can then be compared to real world gallons burned over X-number of miles. As for single drive versus dually, any mileage difference should reflect vehicle weight savings, and little more. If there is a frictional loss issue with dual tires per side, I have not heard of significant gains with a single drive rear wheel setup. In talking with many Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 owners, both SRW and DRW (3500) trucks, fuel mileage does not seem to follow rear wheel layout with any consistency. This would suggest that axle gearing and tire diameter, vehicle height and mass, accessories added, driving style and other factors hold more sway. The reason for dual rear wheels is safety if you plan to load the bed heavily or pull a hefty conventional trailer or especially a larger fifth-wheel trailer. Electric cooling fans are not a free ride, as they draw amperage from the electrical system and alternator. Although the amp draw is not severe, as would be the case with an onboard frequency welder or other high-amperage draws, it is measurable with regard to engine load. Before arguing that an electric fan eliminates the "parasitic power drain" of the factory mechanically driven fan, turn your attention to the CFM flow of each and the amperage load. Note: The engine driven fan can pull a huge amount of air through the radiator when the fan clutch couples. It is only in recent years that the very best electric fans and shroud systems have approached this CFM flow. Personally, I prefer an engine-driven mechanical fan with a clutch unit. As you hint, a thermostatic fan clutch can be improved upon, and I have used high performance aftermarket fan clutches to great advantage. If you take this approach, be prepared to live with the sound of the fan coupling up at unanticipated times. Most truck fan clutch thermostats or viscous fan couplers respond to hot air coming through the radiator core—rather than a specific engine coolant temperature. The reassuring part of this process is to watch the coolant temperature drop immediately when the fan noise occurs. For this to happen, the radiator and water pump must have sufficient flow rate in GPM/GPH, and the radiator must have enough tube and fin surface area to dissipate the maximum BTUs produced by the engine under full load. A great advantage of a fan clutch is its overrunning, freewheeling or uncoupling ability at higher rpm. Without uncoupling, a fast spinning fan and a vehicle at increased road speed would be at odds with each other. Ambient air rushing through the radiator core could get blocked by the high speed fan, and this obstacle to air flow would decrease cooling ability. An aftermarket electric fan is often either on or off, regardless of road speed or the volume or velocity of ambient air flow through the radiator. The signal for an aftermarket electric fan is either coolant temp or radiator surface temp. Once on, the fan spins at a fixed speed regardless of road speed. My approach for maximum cooling has most often been an engine driven fan and a substantial shroud. I've built oversized shrouds to capture the radiator's entire surface area heat, capturing and directing hot air toward the fan. This eliminates hot air stalling and radiator hot spots. Next, the heavy-duty fan clutch must be thermostatically controlled to come on at a temperature that will keep the lid on the engine's upsurge of heat under load. This is even more critical with a turbo-diesel's boost and instant increases in exhaust temperatures. I am comfortable with any power loss caused by a mechanically driven fan. If I can keep the engine temperature under control, the gains far outweigh the fan drag! Here is just one example of a thermal type heavy-duty fan clutch: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/derale-performance-fan-clutches/make/dodge/engine-size/5-9l-359/engine-family/cummins-diesel/clutch-style/heavy-duty-thermal. Regarding quick heat surges, the factory's omission of a pyrometer on our Ram trucks is an area of concern. I do intend to install a pyrometer (properly, and we can discuss the correct approach). I plan to use the pyrometer to achieve maximum performance without shortening the engine's life. While the tachometer keeps us in touch with the torque peak, a pyrometer lets us know when to back out of the throttle and stop stuffing fuel into the engine under boost. From what you describe, and assuming you have 3.73 or 4.10 axle gears with the stock diameter tires, you should readily get 22 mpg at 55 mph. Running empty when our Ram 3500 was strictly stock, I did even better than that (23-25 mpg) when I carefully followed the tachometer during upshifting and through each of the gears. The easiest place to gain mileage is through driving technique. Find your engine's "sweet spot" for fuel efficiency. I'd suspect it's around 1600-1800 rpm on an '03 5.9L, that's at least a place to start. Once you achieve your best mileage run and benchmark, stay within that rpm range whenever practical. Straying from the sweet spot will cause an immediate drop in fuel mileage. Lastly, there are the aftermarket improvements that can keep the engine alive and still boost performance and fuel efficiency. In hindsight, I would say that the most significant impediment to my truck's fuel efficiency was not the added weight of accessories (though that's surely a factor) as much as the chassis/tire lift and the large winch bumper, which amplified the truck's exposed frontal area. The overall effect was an increase in drag coefficient. I've actually gotten 25/26 mpg with this truck in its current profile (running empty) by simply catching enough tailwind to offset the frontal drag. I did drive within the engine's sweet spot to achieve this fuel efficiency. We can and will discuss this further. There are always "trade-offs". A lift kit and oversized tires can be much like a cabover camper or travel trailer: Any of these factors create drag that often mimics a billboard getting pushed down the road! Moses

The pressure test could be revealing. I'm still concerned about the low vacuum. If that's a manifold vacuum reading from an idling engine, see my earlier reply... Moses

Just got back from the Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event, Nevada drivers for the first time...I'm just seeing your post now... If you're talking about engine idle speed manifold vacuum this low, you either have a massively plugged exhaust system, retarded ignition timing or the valve time is off. Compression being normal, I would begin with the ignition distributor. See if the housing clamp is loose, whether the housing moved, and check for retarded spark. Use a timing light for the base timing check. If the distributor housing is secure and timing is retarded, suspect retarded valve timing. This is usually caused by a timing chain that has "jumped". Is the chain and tensioner new? Properly installed? Let's start here... Moses

Since you only changed the fluid and got this reaction, it does sound like a limited slip without friction modifier in the fluid. If you can get the rear wheels off the ground safely like I described, you can rotate a rear wheel forward and watch the other wheel turn. Both turning in the same direction is a limited slip. You can also have someone hold one wheel and feel the force across the axle as you rotate the other wheel. If you determine that the axle is a limited slip, get some friction modifier. Mopar and others sell this in smaller quantities for one-axle supplement. You can add this to the differential fluid. If the axle lube is full, siphon a small amount of lube through the fill hole. Then add the friction modifier. This way, you will not disturb the diff cover that you installed. The Mopar P/N for friction modifier that works with a Trac-Lok diff is: 04318060AB. It sells in 4 oz. quantity bottles for $8-$12 (U.S.). Wynn's and others make friction modifier, too, be sure it's for a Spicer/Dana Trac-Lok axle. One bottle should do it. I've used two bottles on very stubborn Trac-Lok units like our '02 Jeep Liberty 4x4 rear axle at 30K miles. Moses

Forum member Alberto from Colombia has a 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler built at the Brampton, Ontario, Canada Plant. "Brampton" brings back great memories, Alberto! In 1988, the heyday of film photojournalism, I covered the Jeep Cup Rally Finals at Ontario. In those years, you could fly from the U.S. to Canada without a lot of fanfare (no passport required), and my flights took me from Southern California to Toronto. I competed at 1987 and 1988 Jeep Cup Rally regional events as a media driver. 1987 was the first-year of the EFI 4.0L Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4. My co-driver was Chuck Williams, and we drove a spanking new model from San Diego to Placerville, California. My resulting cover story for OFF-ROAD Magazine depicted the new Jeep YJ Wrangler negotiating a steep and rocky, wheel off the ground turn on a Sierra Nevada trail. The next year, I did the Reno, Nevada Jeep Cup Rally Regional in a YJ Wrangler, scaling the rocks from Lockwood to Virginia City. Jeep® had just been acquired by Chrysler Corporation, and the rally finals would be held at Ontario, Canada. The finals included a visit to the Brampton Plant and chance to meet the enthusiast workforce that had come of age with AMC/Jeep® and now operated under the Pentastar banner. Our driving route for the Finals was the wooded wetlands, old mining and logging roads and stream crossings above West Nipissing. The competition day began awkwardly when my open 35mm camera case fell unceremoniously out the door of a new Jeep YJ Wrangler...The driver, unaware that I was standing outside the vehicle and reaching for a lens in the camera case perched on the passenger seat, let out the clutch to merge our Jeep with the procession. I used Nikon FE2 bodies with a full lens complement, and all of this rolled out and across the ground. Quite fortunately, nothing but one relatively inexpensive UV filter received damage. This camera equipment lasted for many years after this shoot... On assignment for three magazines, one in the U.S. and two abroad, made this a tight shoot. The country was rough, muddy and wet, and as the day unfolded, I forded icy streams afoot to catch memorable images, that eventually made covers and center spreads. One shot in particular captured a pair of controversial, square YJ headlamps that danced at the waterline of a swift moving north stream crossing. Following its magazine exposure, this color image came to life once more on the back cover of my Jeep Owner's Bible. These were 4.2L Jeep inline six powered 4x4s that never missed a beat—with their Carter BBD carburetors! We drove similar Jeep YJs over the Rubicon Trail and at other Jeep Cup challenges. As new models, the carbureted 4.2L Wranglers proved their mettle on challenging and tough two-track trails. The trip home from Canada was uneventful, though I did wonder about the images still undeveloped on Fuji 100 film. Those were the early years of X-ray baggage checks at airports, and our journalists' lead-lined film pouches got tested. There was no room for error with 3,000 miles of travel to the photo lab! All turned out well, the three publications each got unique images from that bell-to-bell assignment. The Jeep YJ Wranglers did well, too, and the journalists and drivers enjoyed the many challenges. This all shined through on the pages of magazines across the globe. Moses

You're welcome, Alberto. I have worked at many levels within the automotive industry, including dealership and aftermarket parts and service departments and machine shops. This helps when finding data and information. I'm pleased that you and other Jeep owners can benefit. Here is the Mopar official VIN decoder for the early Jeep YJ 4.2L Wrangler years (1987-90): Jeep YJ Wrangler VIN Decoding.pdf For 1989 and 1990, the "T" and "M" in the 8th position of the VIN (see the chart) does indicate a 4.2L unleaded fuel engine. Looks like you have the appropriate engine for the chassis. And yes, the original build was for the Canadian market, not Venezuela, which explains the Sole-Vac system and stepper motor. You'll find the attached chart helpful, this is what Mopar parts personnel used to identify vehicles, markets, and the right parts for customers and service personnel. I thought the Echlin catalog would be useful, too. The illustrations and details provide items that can interchange and meet your vehicle's needs. Use the NAPA online catalog, too. See the parts listed for your specific Jeep year, model and engine. Your "library" is growing! In addition to the internet, my print resource library consists of four six-foot tall bookcases lined with shop manuals and other automotive data dating back to 1917. I constantly research for my journalism, books and other publishing outlets—and today, even for HD video how-to productions. Moses

Alberto...Most carburetor kits have wide coverage. A BBD Carter kit often fits a variety of applications. To help determine your carburetor, look for items #25 and #26 in the Mopar parts breakout that I shared. Does your carburetor, or your friend's BBD, have these parts? This is a Sole-Vac system for the North American emissions applications. Also, I commented that your build stickers (should be on the door tub sills, forward, driver's side) will indicate the market for these Jeep vehicles. Determine your Jeep's original market, that will help with parts identification. The Mopar list shows several parts that fit specific market engines. At a quick glance, the common "types" for your Jeep year and engine, each a BBD Carter, would be 8383, 8384, 8394 or 8366. Do you have the Sole-Vac system with stepper motor? This is carburetor #8383, #8394 or #8384. The 8383, 8394 and 8384 are common North American applications. The 8366 (no stepper motor for Sole-Vac) is Venezuelan. For which market was your Jeep built? The vehicle build date and market will determine which carburetor originally came on the engine. As for carburetor rebuild kits, Echlin is my brand of choice, and the NAPA/Echlin kit fits every BBD Carter carburetor used on a 1989 YJ Jeep Wrangler, regardless of the market. Here is the NAPA kit description: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Carburetor-Kit/_/R-MPF31207B_0064194887. In NAPA's system, the part number is MPF 31207B. (Other kit makers use different part numbers.) As you will see, these kits have enough gaskets for each of the variations. There are many aftermarket carburetor kit sources online. All kits that I found fit a range of Jeep/Carter BBD 4.2L engines. Also, here is a very useful catalog for restoring both your fuel and emission system. It is the actual Echlin catalog. (NAPA stores at North America handle Echlin. You may have other sources for Echlin products.) You want to restore your engine's fuel and emissions features, and this can help: http://www.napaechlin.com/Upload/NAPAEchlin2/Documents/CRB_NA980_HQr.pdf Moses

Glad you found the problem source, Alberto...You should have no problem finding a rebuild kit, and there should be an identification tag (triangle shaped) on the carburetor to confirm the model number. There were U.S., Canadian, Egyptian and Venezuelan applications. Look at the build sticker for your Jeep and confirm the market of origin. For identifying your carburetor and any parts you need, here is the factory parts listing and illustrations: YJ Wrangler 4.2L Carburetor Details.pdf The part numbers will help, and the illustrations will be of use to your mechanic. So will my step by step rebuild instructions for the 4.2L Carter BBD carburetor. These steps are at the magazine. Moses

For most of the world, an outdoor lifestyle involves motor vehicles. In North America, 4x4 utility vehicles long ago became the icon for backcountry travel, which now spans four generations of postwar Jeep, SUV and 4x4 light truck enthusiasts. When not used for work chores, these vehicles have taken families camping, hunting," rock hounding", fishing, exploring and rock crawling. 4x4s have accessed the most primitive and scenic reaches of the globe. The emergence of dirt motorcycles, ATVs and the popular S-by-S UTVs has given us an even wider range of vehicle choices. Dirt motorcycles, once strictly competition-oriented for desert, Six-Days Trials and motocross use, have expanded into the dual-sport crossovers and license plated, bona fide dirt enduro bikes. The sport bikes have now given up their top sales segment status to the "adventure-touring" class of heavyweight highway/occasional dirt use cycles—not so "occasional" for Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman in the two "Long Way..." documentary series that have attracted millions of bucket list followers! "Long Way Down"* was a 15,000 mile ride, with extensive primitive roads through the African continent. *Note: Want to treat your family to a moto, geography and cultural lesson? Watch the 45-minute segments, available as streaming video at Netflix! Each of us has our motor vehicle legacy, and in my case, the focus has been both 4x4 utility/SUV vehicles and dirt motorcycles. I have my reasons. My view of 4x4s and dirt motorcycles breaks down like this: 1) 4x4 Utility Vehicles: The Jeep CJs and current XJ Cherokee 4x4, two FJ40 Land Cruisers and an I-H Scout were each "family oriented". (We also had a string of beam axle GM 4x4 pickup trucks and 3/4-ton 4WD Suburbans that doubled for work and recreational/family use.) Camping, hunting, fishing and outdoor exploring are instant memories, each of these vehicles has its special association with remote "places". I drove a Jeep CJ-5 4x4 with my learner's permit and took the driver's license exam in that F-head model. Our children and grandchildren have each benefitted from a "4x4 lifestyle", and outdoor activities have defined our family for four generations. On the upside, a 4x4 utility, SUV or light truck can be a family foundation for outdoor activity and recreation; the downside is the ridiculously high price of admission to the new vehicle market...A "used 4x4" can be the practical alternative. 2) Dual-Sport Motorcycles: I grew up at rural Nevada when the state's population was so sparse that a "Scooter License" was available at the age of 14. Who would pass up such an opportunity? I bought a '55 Cushman/Allstate and quickly outfitted it with an oversized Super Eagle long block. That 'sleeper' made 60 mph. If it's in your blood, one motorcycle leads to another, and my first bona fide "off-pavement" bike came in the form of a two-year-old 1969 BSA 441cc Victor single-cylinder thumper, which really had more place on-pavement but looked very cool as an "On Any Sunday" scrambler/enduro of that era. Drawn to BSAs, I eventually owned an A65L Lightning and A75R Rocket III, both for pavement only...My resumption of dirt bike riding came two decades later, as riding with our youngest son Jacob led to a string of pre-owned Honda XR air-cooled models. The latest acquisition, 2000 Honda XR650R feels "just right" for open desert while the remaining '84 Honda XR350R makes for a nice single-track trail and moderate desert runner...The upside of dirt motorcycles is the incredibly reasonable price of admission when compared to a 4x4 vehicle; the limitation is that this is not "family recreation" unless the entire family rides on individual motorcycles and enjoys the sport. Unless we see a dramatic decrease in the gap between income and the cost of new motor vehicles, and a real drop in fuel costs, the used vehicle alternative will become increasingly more popular for 4x4 enthusiasts. If there is no whole family "buy-in" (spouse or kids simply don't like bouncing around in a 4x4 all day), the powersports (i.e., dirt/dual-sport motorcycle, ATV or UTV) option becomes viable for those interested. This lower price of admission for a dirt motorcycle can be the leverage when you're the only one in the family who likes motorized, off-pavement travel and recreation. It's easier to keep peace in the family with the purchase and prep of a dirt or dual-sport motorcycle, for well under $10K even if bought new, than trying to push the idea of a showroom fresh JK Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited (4-Door) 4x4 at $40K—plus an additional $12K-$15K worth of "must have" add-ons and upgrades planned within five minutes of buying the Jeep—or after the first undercarriage-pounding rock crawl on stock diameter tires with that 116" wheelbase! Many spouses will go along with a used or new dirt bike expenditure in the $2500 to $9000 price range. 4x4s and dirt motorcycles are two distinctly different paradigms. If the whole family does not ride in the dirt, a motorcycle will be a solitary outlet for Dad (or Mom in this era) and friends with similar interests. For whole family recreation, a used or even the right new 4x4 makes sense. Buying used might leave enough funding for a dirt bike, too! Another consideration is riding skill. I'm lucky that my muscle memories for two-wheel motorized on- and off-highway cycling date back fifty years now. Riding in the dirt and on-pavement for that long builds reflexes and survival skills. It even compensates for aging to a degree. (Often, I am pleasantly surprised to "pull it off" with a strictly reflexive move at this ripe age!) On the other hand, without putting a damper on anyone's enthusiasm, I caution middle-age, first time riders: Go gradually, you've got a lot of catching up to do! Note: Having ridden highway under the "Basic Speed Law" at rural Nevada in the day, on a tuned BSA Rocket III that could soar to 115 mph without hesitation, with over fifty years of off-pavement riding experience as well, my health "secret" is defensive riding. That's the only way to stay uninjured and alive, frankly. Fortunately, I've never been down on the pavement nor done a high-side or "endo"/cartwheel in the dirt...No broken bones or injuries, I'm grateful and ever vigilant. If you have years of on-highway riding experience, that helps a lot in the dirt. However, riding off-pavement is it's own critter, beware of the handling quirks and dynamics that are unique to dirt riding. There are courses and trail riding schools. Watch every video you can on how to ride dirt at speed...On that note, don't ride at speed until you're good and ready! For those of us with a level head, motorcycling is potentially dangerous, and if you doubt that and do not ride defensively and reasonably, while wearing the right riding gear for the environment, you can expect to hear your friends and family's resounding, "I told you those things are dangerous!" Before gushing further about dirt and dual-sport motorcycles, I admit that dirt riding is a totally different angle. Camping out requires lightweight, easy to tote equipment—and not much of it! Inexpensive motels or B&Bs are a welcome alternative after eating dust all day. Weather becomes an issue, icy highways a hazard, mud a grind, and scorching heat a quick way to dehydrate. (Wear and use a Camelback or similar device!) If you like the comfort of a heater and air conditioning, a dirt motorcycle is not the way to go...If you want a five-muscle group exercise machine and an incentive for staying in good physical condition, a dirt bike and single track trails or open desert riding will do the trick! For our household, the current rolling stock and applications break down like this: 1) 1999 XJ Cherokee 4WD doubles as a daily driver/magazine chores and true trail use vehicle with its 6-inch long arm suspension lift and 33" tires, a winch on a winch bumper and ARB Air Lockers front and rear with 4.10 axle gearing. 2) 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4WD Quad-Cab with Cummins 5.9L engine, our primary work vehicle, "ultimate" hauler and tow vehicle when needed. 95% of the Ram's life has been eating up highway miles at a tolerable 21-plus mpg...A great utility workhorse and overall vehicle, great ride quality for those 720 miles (each way) trips to Moab! 3) Honda XR650R motorcycle recently added to the stable and earmarked for outdoor promotion and use as a video filming platform. The iconic desert enduro motorcycle ("Dust to Glory" star in its HRC form), converted for dual-sport riding, license plated and insured, this bike is at home both on pavement and in the dirt...This is the fifth XR in our household, and another one (an XR400R in "as new" condition) heads into youngest son Jacob's garage later today. Honda XR motorcycle inventory: The wholly intact 1984 Honda XR500R needs some restorative work and currently rests under a protective tarp; the pristine '83 XR200R went to a good home years ago; Jacob's original and pieced together XR75 got ridden into the ground ($70 total invested, it ran for five years); and the '84 XR350R has remained in the stable, maintained meticulously. 4) 1984 Honda XR350R motorcycle that was built for hare-and-hound by an A&E licensed aircraft mechanic then never raced. This is a pristine, highly dependable air-cooled thumper with factory dual carburetors. (Many whine about the dual carbs, they are fundamental and not difficult to rebuild and sync, I'd be delighted to share details.) This engine starts on the first or second kick every time, hot or cold, and the four-valve technology makes it a kick-butt, fun and highly dependable motorcycle! Despite wife Donna's prodding about why I need more than one motorcycle, I've managed to keep this endearing motorcycle in the stable. All of our motor vehicles are paid for, and that has been the trend for us. We did buy the 2005 Ram new, the only vehicle in this batch that came off a dealer's lot. Each of the other vehicles was a "private party" purchase. We have enough funding left at the end of the day to buy the fuel, outdoor gear, fly fishing tackle, hunting paraphernalia and other outdoor lifestyle necessities. If being on a vehicle "cash footing" sounds appealing, these forums, the magazine and my Vimeo On Demand instructional videos can help you enjoy an affordable, motorized outdoor lifestyle! Moses

Rocket Doctor...A '76 CJ-5 should be drum front brakes, the chassis is the first year for a boxed frame, a big plus, the 304 V-8 would be great power for a flatfender CJ-2A chassis. The transfer case is a Spicer 20, rear axle an AMC 20 with the Dana 30 open knuckle up front. All of the these parts have merit. The transfer case is a through-drive, so it would not line up with the 2A's offset rear axle center section. You could swap the AMC 20 into the early Jeep or install a D44 with a centered diff from a '72-'75 CJ. The Saginaw gear retrofit would be a real plus over the Ross cam-and-lever steering gear in the 2A. You'd go to a one-piece knuckle-to-knuckle tie-rod and a one-piece draglink ("short tie-rod"), eliminating the 2A's bell crank and twin tie-rods. The D30 front axle, even with drum brakes, is an improvement over the CJ-2A's Spicer 25 closed knuckle. 1976 drum brakes all around would be a major improvement over the 2A's 9" drums. I'd do a dual master cylinder conversion with this brake upgrade, you can maintain the OE through-the-floor pedals if desired. If you're okay with the AMC Model 20 rear axle (which I like a lot, see my forum topic/post on how to tighten the hub flange-to-axle shaft nuts), you could swap both axles from the '76 chassis into the CJ-2A. There would be adjustments to the spring perch locations and for spring widths in this process; measure the front axle carefully to center it up properly. I'd want to confirm the degree and caliber of the 304 V-8 rebuild and verify the condition of other pieces (power steering pump, alternator, etc.). The transmission, if the original 1976 unit, is likely a T150, a decent all synchromesh 3-speed that is just "okay" ratio wise with the 2.0:1 low range of the Spicer 20. The 5.38 axle gears in the CJ-2A help offset the crawl ratio limitations and should work with 31"-33" diameter tires. Of course, you could do a T18 four-speed swap, but this means a conversion and adapter parts if you use the common Ford truck version to get the 6.32:1 compound low gear. This 6.32 ratio was only available with some Jeep CJ T18 units. Most were 4.02:1 first gear. You'd have the cooling/radiator, 12V electrics, exhaust (rear exit, please, whether single or dual, find a safe way!), fuel supply and other issues to tackle. This is straightforward on a vintage Jeep, though, as each component is simple and easy to access. If you're willing to do all of this, and if the CJ-2A was not earmarked for a stock restoration, you have a lot of "stuff" here. This buildup would be a time hungry "project", as you know. The result would be a Jeep CJ-2A with much better drivability, handling and highway performance. Moses

Greg, you're being very thorough. The advantage of a lamp test: You can have "continuity" and even no measurable "resistance" through a few (remaining) strands of wire. The lamp test loads the circuit, with the resulting lamp brightness indicating a wire or circuit's ability to carry amperage or current. On a DC system, grounds are as important as so-called "hot" or positive leads (on a negative ground system). The lamp provides a yardstick for comparing a known "good" circuit with the one being tested. The dimness or brightness is actually a reflection of voltage drop. As for your ECU, oh, boy! This does look like it at least needs cleaning and testing, as circuits may be either open or shorting due to corrosive and conductive material at the surface. Try a suitable electronics cleaner, very carefully, and see if you can restore and test circuit integrity. You may have found a serious trouble spot. Also consider the signals/sensors that trigger the EGR solenoid. Moses

JohnF...I gleaned the Saturn Overdrive installation data and steps from Advance Adapters' website. (These folks are very good friends and supporters of the magazine and these forums!) In the PDF instructions, you can see the relationship of parts and a reference to the torque settings for the hardware: Advance Adapters Saturn Overdrive.pdf Read through the Saturn Overdrive details and look at the illustrations. Note the similarities to your PTO sprocket location. If the bearing you describe is a caged ball type with an inner and outer race, and if the sprocket rests against the shoulder of the inner bearing race (with the bearing seated against the output shaft shoulder), then these Saturn steps should help clarify the torque setting for the nut. Note: The Saturn Overdrive uses a stub shaft, which you do not use; however, if your sprocket attaches like the Saturn stub shaft, you'll have torque figures. What you don't want is a loose sprocket or a seized bearing! If the sprocket seats against the inner race (only) of the caged bearing, the bearing inner race/collar can tolerate considerable fastener torque. You would not be affecting the "bearing adjustment" by tightening the nut. I would use a properly graded castellated nut and torque the nut to spec range. The cotter pin is a safety back-up. Torqued properly, the nut will not loosen with a cotter pin in place. An all steel "top-lock" Grade 8 nut with Loctite for insurance might be an option or a similar self-locking U-joint type flange nut like this if clearance is not an issue: Moses