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stearnsm

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About stearnsm

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  1. I'm afraid I disagree. The cylinder head has no impact on blow by... blow by is compression leaking past the piston rings on the compression stroke. The crankcase ventilation valve vents this pressure back into the intake. A bad valve guide can cause you to use oil, as the oil goes down the valve stem into the combustion chamber. So a bad valve guide on the number 4 cylinder could be dumping oil into the cylinder and causing the plug to foul. Check the CCV valve and hose. If there is an excessive amount of oil present then my bet is its the piston rings. You can also pull the hose off the CCV and plug it with your finger while it runs, there should be almost no pressure against your finger. If you can feel pressure or if it spits oil out then it needs rings. Ironically, that could be why compression on #4 is so much higher, do to the extra lubrication.
  2. I thought I would share my power steering solution for my CJ5. I started talking to Moses about this a couple of years ago, but due to my deployment schedule and life in general have just now got around to completing it. When I finally updated him on my solution, he asked that I share it here. So here it is Due to the big Koenig model 100 PTO winch sitting up front between my frame rails I couldn't use a typical Saginaw power steering setup on my CJ5. So after a couple emails back and forth with Moses and some long nights researching parts on the internet, I put this together and I think this works just about perfect... It provides plenty of wheel clearance and doesn't sacrifice any space between my frame rails up front. With the tie rod end flip, my steering geometry is just about ideal. I don't expect any bump steer issues at all. This part of the frame is also very strong, due to the factory crossmember, and much less susceptible to flexing and twisting. I still reinforced the outer frame rail with some 3/16" plate I had on hand, but I don't expect to have any of the issues some have with the power steering box up front. I did have to move the shock to the back side of the axle for clearance, but overall I think it makes a really clean install. In this photo you can see the PTO drive line for the winch below the radiator outlet. The steering gear is for a 1978-79 Ford Bronco, which came from the factory with the forward pitman. The pitman arm is for the 78-79 Bronco with a 3" lift (my new springs are 2~2.5 inch lift from Rough Country but ultimately I positioned the box where I wanted it to optimize the geometry and ensure clearance). I adapted the Ford pitman arm to the jeep tapered tie rod ends with an extra "tie rod end" sleeve from TMR Customs, which I used to flip the tie rods to the top of the knuckles. Steering boxes for IH Scout II can also be used. From everything I read the Scout boxes are a little bit beefier and in fact the Ford box is largely a copy of the Scout box. I decided to go with the Ford box primarily due to price and availability. The Scout boxes are very hard to find and extremely expensive. These Ford boxes can also be found on 78-79 F150's, although some of those boxes had the pitman arm facing aft so you need to watch which version your getting if it is off an F150. Hope someone out there finds this helpful... Standing by for questions!
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