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About 60Bubba

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    Memphis, TN

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  1. Moses, Seems like sage advice as always! It sounds like I'm well setup if I decide to go the stroker route. My current engine is out of a 1995 Cherokee. It has the 7120 head that is the best of breed from what I've read. I haven't ever been inside of it, so I don't know what the condition is. It still makes good oil pressure, so I suspect it will be a decent canvas to work from. That said, last night I plunged into an engine purchase on Rockcrawling Classifieds. A gentleman in Colorado that races prerunners in the 2.3L class had considered stepping up to the V8 class. He rebuil
  2. Moses, I have watched your videos regarding how to approach a stroker motor. I have read tons of info on the internet, and I've seen many calculators for quench height, combustion cylinder volume, etc. It really is baffling to me, and I've begun to realize I could invest a lot of money and end up with an engine that doesn't work. Is there any identifying info on the block that would allow you (or someone) to write me a "recipe" for what parts I need to build up a stroker? I'm realizing that the added weight of the full size truck axles and 38" tires are going to necessitate more power.
  3. Moses, It's been a while since I was on the site. Things have been very busy for us. We finally sold our home in San Diego, and we moved my mom to Memphis, as Uncle Sam has decided to keep me here for another three years. Lots of good wheeling this summer and fall with my local club. The itch to do more challenging trails has set in, and I feel like I'm about at the limit of my stock axles. I have sourced a full width Dana 60 rear with 4.10 and a disc brake conversion complete. The same stalled project yielded a 70's vintage Dana 44 from a Chevy truck. It's a 4.10 with lunch box loc
  4. Don't worry if yours looks different than these. This was before the countershaft went back in!
  5. On my D300, I think there were two studs with nuts and the rest were bolts. Also, if you find any gear issues when you're in there, let me know. I have a set of factory D300 gears sitting on the bench, as I just put in a 4:1 gear kit. If you think there is any chance you might want to have the low range gears in the future, now is the time to do it! These new gears are monsters!
  6. First shakedown of the new transmission, transfer case gears, winch and rock sliders. All were thoroughly abused--I mean tested this weekend. Everything seems to have come back in one piece. I may drain the transmission and transfer case just to check for metal particles to make sure nothing is going wrong in there. Here are a few shortened clips from the trails at Hawk Pride Off Road in Tuscumbia, Alabama. I think this one was listed as a Level 3. We finished up on a Level 4 called Diamondback, but I was somewhat busy for that one, so not many videos! HPO2017_1.M4V HPO201
  7. Moses, Since I decided to remove the bellhousing to check conditions in there, I had the perfect tool for marking the sleeve. After I measured how much I wanted to remove, I slid the throwout bearing over the sleeve and used it as a guide and used a sharp piece of wire to scribe the retainer sleeve. I made a rough cut with the angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. I then slid the retainer over the dummy countershaft I used for the transmission reassembly. I used the counter shaft as a spindle so I could turn the retainer against my bench grinder and slowly work down to the mark I scr
  8. Moses, I managed to squeeze in some work last night and this morning. Pulled everything last night. I did end up with one big 'ole unit. I think overall that was the best method. My transmission jack is junk, so if I ever have to do this again, I need to get a heavier duty model. Wish I could rent that sort of thing locally. Today I measured from the bell housing mount surface down to the clutch fingers. Using the roughly .5" throw I measured before, I worked out how long the retainer sleeve needed to be to support the bearing throughout the throw. Being conservative, I was able to
  9. Now we're getting somewhere! Turns out you would be surprised how little additional noise a clutch hub makes as it eats a bearing retainer. I couldn't actually see anything very useful even after I pulled the starter and the inspection cover off the flywheel dust shield, so I went ahead and dropped the skid plate, transmission and transfer case. I could smell carnage as soon as the transmission started to pull away from the bell housing. The clutch hub is rubbing on the bearing retainer sleeve. As you can see in the pictures, the chamfered lip of the hub actually wore a corresponding g
  10. I went out after the little guy went to bed and stuck my inspection camera through the clutch fork opening. It seems that the friction disk hub is touching the end of the front bearing retainer tube. Not sure if that's an issue. I noticed that it was going to be close when I pulled the transmission this weekend. I put a straight edge across the bell housing opening and measured down to the clutch hub and into the pilot bore to verify there was enough depth to accommodate the entire input shaft length without bottoming. From those measurements, it looked like the retainer tube was going
  11. There are several 1970's vintage Corvette master cylinders that are disc/disc and will bolt up to a stock CJ booster. Measure the outlet sizes of your current MC to find one that matches a Corvette option, or be prepared to replace the fittings on your brake lines with ones that match the new MC.
  12. Moses, I just got done trying out the start in gear trick. No luck. That new crawl ratio with the 5.1:1 1st gear and 4:1 transfer case ratio is pretty great, I just wish I could shift! It started right up and crawled forward, but pushing the clutch in had no effect. I could pull it out of gear, but had to shut down to put it back into 1st. No combination of throttle or clutch pedal seemed to change anything. The pilot bushing is an Oilite bushing that I soaked for about a week before installation. I did not add any grease. The bushing came from Novak and was recommended for
  13. Copy all Moses. I'll be very careful with the start. I guess those new 4:1 gears will at least keep the speed of the Jeep under control! As for the flywheel, it was resurfaced back when I did the T5 rebuild. It was smooth and still had the diamond hone finish on it. I doubt the new clutch had 250 miles on it. Pressure plate also still looked brand new. Case
  14. So the better half and I spent a couple minutes in the garage early this morning while the room mate was still asleep. I watched the release fingers and bearing while she operated the clutch. To answer some of your questions: 1. I adjusted out essentially all the free play in the linkage. Obviously I can't drive it with the bearing basically resting on the release fingers, but I was trying to eliminate lack of travel as a cause. That was done before my last post with no results. 2. With Lesley moving the clutch pedal through it's full travel, my guestimate is the release bearing i
  15. So I've done some more reading and found another couple things that might cause the symptoms I'm seeing. Essentially, it looks like there are a couple of reasons why the input shaft might be binding in the crankshaft pilot. 1. Pilot bushing is too small for the input shaft: I'm 99.9% sure I test fit the new bushing, especially since it looked so different because it was designed to fit in the outer, larger diameter bore in the crankshaft. Also, the clutch alignment tool went easily through the clutch and into the pilot, so I don't think that's it. 2. Misalignment of the transmissio
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