William H

Moses, Thanks for taking the time to review my post. My nearest reputable local driveline rebuilder is about 80 miles and they only offer drop off service. That would mean at least 2 trips for a total of 320 miles. I watched several you tube videos on how to rebuild these. None had a good solution on how to compress the spring and most were examples of how NOT to do it. Hope some will be able to benefit from this simple tool design. I am sure others can improve on it. Like I said, it was built 100% from material laying around. Saved enough money by doing it myself to snag a nice Snap-On ball joint tool set at a good price from eBay. You are very correct about the balance. Before disassembly, I did mark the components for alignment. If you look again at step 4, you can see a scratch mark on the H Frame that aligns to a mark on the shaft. I just forgot to mention in my reassembly procedure. I also would recommend purchasing a complete rebuild kit with new centering yoke with bearing already installed. In my application, this driveline runs at very near the maximum angle. It now runs vibration free. William

9 Steps to reassemble a Double Cardan U-Joint using my homebrew Centering Yoke Spring Compression Tool. Simple tool design from material laying around the shop. For all you old hands out there that are only interested in the tool, skip down to step #5. Tip: Use all 4 bolts to help square the yoke compression plate and double nut the threaded rods at the compression plate. Alignment and adjustment done at the other end of threaded rods.

9 Steps to reassemble a Double Cardan U-Joint using my homebrew Spring Compression Tool.

Moses, Thanks for the compliment. Really hope others are helped! At 315 entries and 19 different trails the 2017 24th annual "Gateway to the Cumberlands" Jeep Jamboree was the largest JJ EVER! Really looking forward to the 25th annual next year. Here are some very nice videos from this year. Nice drone work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F42AzDwOnW4&feature=share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_kNtTNUWTU&feature=share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP9ENNI1bKY&feature=share This is where we came out of the creek on the Monkey Rock Trail. First try was with rear lockers only. Really nice still shots at the end. https://www.facebook.com/bob.duncan.37/videos/10214373522594129/ William

Moses, Verified current on the control segments. F3: Key On, Fans Running, 500mA Max. Key Off: 2mA F4: Battery Connection Surge 30mA, Key On 10mA. Key Off 2mA F5: Key On 1.5mA William

Moses, Finally able to complete the fan controller install. Found out that the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Controller is NOT compatible with the "Bi-Metal Strip" regulated OEM Temp Gauges found in CJ's. I elected to go with a Jeep branded AutoMeter electric gauge. Already had a hole in the dash. Seems to work quite well. High Water Fan Disable Switch and AutoMeter Temp Gauge. Overlook the crooked rear ARB Locker Switch Label. Came with the Jeep that way and it is stuck really good to the dash and afraid to redo it. Fan Override Switch and Fan Status LED's mounted to the bottom edge of the dash. Fan Controller Velcro Mounted out of sight to the Heater Air Box. AS Built Wiring Diagram. Hope this helps others. William

Moses, Just got back from our Florida Sun Coast Vacation. Had a Great Time and the Weather was perfect! Highs in mid 80's lows in mid 70's and not a cloud each day. This is the view from our deck at the Seaside Inn on Anna Maria Island. Wife's payback for all her Jeep stuff patience. The 2 core Griffin radiator and Flow Cooler water pump has completely cured the overheating at highway speeds. BEFORE the fan controller failure, I had already confirmed the fans were not operating at highway speeds. Mission now is to make the fan system a reliable as possible. I have made a little forward progress on the controller system redesign. Attached, you will observe the custom Override Switch and Fan Status LEDs housing. This box will be mounted to the bottom lip of the CJ dash and provide mounting and protection for the small switch and led's. I plan to mount the Dakota Digital controller just out of sight to the heater air box with heavy duty Velcro and leads long enough to allow removal and fine tuning of the temp thresholds and gauge sending unit settings. I expect it will take a little while to get the controller completely dialed in. Front View Rear View (wire terminals) Inside view with bottom cover removed. Hope to be able to jump back into it starting next week. Also planning on supplying finished photos and updated "AS BUILT" wiring diagram. William

Moses, First this jeep had a long cooling problem history going back several owners. It would cool fine on the trail, but would heat up @ highway speeds, and especially on long inclines. Restricted air flow from the tall winch and the nearly 2000# of non OEM weight it carries was blamed. I replaced the OEM style water pump with a high flow unit and I replaced the 4 core aftermarket aluminum radiator with a beefy 2 core direct fit aluminum model from Griffin Thermal Products. Cooling problem solved. A dual fan low profile Flex-a-lite # 580 direct fit fan system with shroud came with the jeep when I bought it. Rated @ 2500 CFM total and 19.5A for each fan, it really moves the air. I just need a better way to control it. I understand your preference for mechanical driven fans and your reasoning is well founded. Had a really rough time once when in extreme cold weather when large ice chunks took out my mechanical fan. Other times I wish I could have easily disabled the fan during deep water crossings. I guess it is a matter of choosing your poison. At some point I may choose to go back to a mechanical fan, but for now I will stay with the fans I have. As you aware, there is not a lot of room between the motor and the radiator with the 4.2L I6. You can still see the bypass hose that was used after the heater hose let go on the trail Thursday. New hoses will be here in a couple of days. After searching the web for days, wading through all the hype and bull, the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Controller seems to be a versatile and reliable unit. Have you any experience with this controller? I have worked up a preliminary wiring diagram for a Dakota Digital solution using the existing fans and 180 deg. thermostat for your review and comment. A fairly simple and yet robust design with manual mission critical override control. Maybe a separate custom designed auditable alert triggered when approaching over temp. Fans operate at user adjustable different temps. Proposed Fan #1 On 188 Off 180. Proposed Fan #2 On 198 Off 190. User programmable run on after engine off times. Uses OEM Temp Gauge to receive temperature info, radiator probe no longer needed. All electronics are dry mounted in Cabin Compartment. Custom dash mounted fans running status led lamps. Custom dash mounted Controller Override Switch. Custom dash mounted Deep Water Fan Disable Switch. Four fuses for maximum mission critical survivability in case of single fan failure or short due to wire chafing. Visio-Fan Controller Adapter.pdf Might need to add a 2A fuse (F5) at the +12V input to the controller in case of controller short. This would still allow the "Controller Override Switch" to manually operate the fans. Haven't come up with a "simple" way to only allow the Override Switch to work when the engine is running without introducing another possible point failure and still the use of the "run on" after ignition feature. As drawn, accidental use of the Override Switch by a child or others could run the fans until switched off. After controller failure on the trail last Friday, having a manual fan switch out weights the draw backs.

Hello Moses, Just got back from my first Jeep Jamboree "Gateway to the Cumberlands". The good news is we had a great time and the bad news is we had mechanical trouble. Early on the first day a 3/4 to 5/8 heater hose adapter broke and spilled all the coolant. Trail repair was to bypass the heater core by looping the pump hose back to itself and refilling with tap water from the jerry can. The main problem then was the fan controller had also failed from the hot bath it received. Finished the day by manually starting and stopping the fans by physically raising the hood and connecting a hot wire to the fan relays. With these band aids in place and day 2 was to be a much tougher trail, I didn't want to pull up to the line not being a full strength and I decided to scratch for day 2. My question would be the best solution to replacing and upgrading the controller. Research reviled that the existing controller "Hayden 3647" with radiator probe has a history of failures. The HPC controller seems to have good reviews. The controllers with the best reviews utilize screw in type sensors. The MFI kit uses the temp port in the thermostat housing and the OEM temp gauge uses the port in the back of the head. The top radiator hose is too short and curvy to install an inline adapter. I am using external relays so current capacity of the new controller will not be an issue. Hoping for a robust solution that will not fail when wet. How would you proceed? The transmission, transfer case, and other equipment we worked on earlier is performing flawlessly. I really gave it a workout on the one run that I did complete.. Definitely not a Mall Crawler! Coming out of the creek at the Jamboree on Friday. There was at least an 18" step at the bottom, followed by a slick muddy hill. 23 in our group and I was next to last. Several had to be pulled. Made it on the second try. Excellent camera work to freeze the tire tread and splash. William

Replaced Oil Seal and seated with Loctite 518, added 0.003" to the bearing preload. No more leaks!! Also just received a new Tom Woods long stroke front driveshaft. The old one was built with a "Bigelow/Cornay" CV joint that was worn out and repair parts were not available. William

Moses, Looks like the Front Seal is where the leak is. The front of the Transmission and the Retainer and hardware is high and dry. Gear Oil Pooling in the bottom of the Bell Housing. Gear Oil drops clinging to upper portion of the Bell Housing. Gear Oil clinging to Pressure Plate. Cleaned all the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. William

Moses, Well, looks like I will be going back in. After 100 Highway Miles the front is still leaking. Inspection reveals the rear main is dry. Used sealant on the front bearing retainer bolts. The front seal supplied in the T5 Master Kit was the rubberized shell type. Which type performs best for you? Front side of the Flywheel is dry, gear oil is pooling in the inside of the bell housing. Hopefully, once the transmission is pulled I can address this issue without opening up the case. William

Moses, Wednesday was the 50 mile highway "Shake down". Performed well through out the test. Shifting was smooth and easy with positive detent. I tested it on a very steep gravel road incline that had proved a problem to keep it in 2 wheel low in the past. Passed with flying colors. Upon inspection back in the stable, I discovered there was a major oil leak from the rear seal. Further Inspection results: Yoke splines were high and dry. Zero end play in the rear shaft. With driveshaft disconnected, Yoke and rear shaft runs true. When installing the rear seal, I added a little RTV to the outer edge of the seal. It had several weeks to cure with the ambient temperature ranging from 50 to 60 degrees. When I went to remove it, popped out very easy with the first pull. Inspection under a magnifying light revealed no defects. Unable to determine if leak was from the inner or outer portion of the seal. I installed a new seal on Friday with Loctite Anaerobic sealer on the outside edge. Let it cure until this morning and ran it for 30 miles @ 25 MPH without the driveshaft and it did not leak a drop. Will road test again once the weather clears and the roads dry off. William

Moses, Wednesday was the "Shake Down" run for the transmission. After 50 highway miles, the transmission shifts really smooth with no vibrations and noises. No complaints with Valvoline Synchromesh MTF so far. However there was one drop of transmission oil on the front of the bell housing. This morning I ran the transmission in 5th gear @ 25 MPH for 30 miles without the rear drive shaft and there was no more oil. Will road test again and continue to monitor. While bringing one of the Transmission to Cross member bolts up to torque, it started to yield in the aluminum housing of the Transmission. The good news is that a Time-Sert can be installed by dropping the Cross Member. It is a shame that it is not the same bolt size I used to repair the Bell Housing. I will postpone the repair until I determine if the front leak is an issue or before any major trail rides. Thanks Moses for looking over my shoulder and I hope the issues and procedures discussed in this forum will be an aid to others. William

Moses, Wednesday was "Shake Down" run. Right off the bat, was a loud noise that turned out to be the Flywheel Bolts rubbing the lower shield plate. A little bending took care of that. The first 50 mile highway spin had the Rear Main and Oil Pan high and dry and the clutch system working properly. No other noises or vibrations. Hope the information and procedures contained here will be of benefit to others. A special thanks to Moses for looking over my shoulder! William