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Well, I have gotten the input shaft and front and rear output shafts and the bearing covers together and attached to the case. In trying to check and see how everything is fitting together I attempted to see how the shift rods moved. The rear output rod moves OK but is a little stiff. However the front output rod is almost impossible to move in and out. If I disconnect the front shift fork the rod will move in the case but it is still VERY hard With the front shift fork is disconnected it does not seem to move smoothly along the rod. Is this just an issue of there not being enough lube on the rod, even though the rods were coated with engine assembly lube when put together? Or, could it be a problem with the line up of the interlock plugs? Any suggestions? Rick
I drained the Dana 300 on my '84 CJ-7 and found the bits of metal shown in the attached photo. I also found, not pictured, what looks like half of a plastic sphere about a 1/4 inch in diameter. I have looked at several exploded diagrams of transfer cases and cannot find anything that resembles what I found. Any suggestions as to what these bits are from? Thanks
Moses, I am starting the Twin Stick Dana 300 rebuild to address the jumping out on down grades issue. This unit had major work about 16K miles ago when a 4:1 gear kit was installed by a pervious owner. The Odometer now has 282K miles and most likely is was a California commuter Jeep in its early days (266K miles 1985 - 2003). This may be an interesting journey. First look don't seem too bad. Clocking Ring and Input Shaft. Clocking Ring Gasket was not salvageable. Not real sure what its function was as it is not a water or oil seal. Input Bearing Unit Removed. Even though I plan on installing a master kit, the input gear/bearing assembly looks and feels so good, I am reluctant to take it apart. Moses, you may have some input on that. Now for the bad news. The front shift fork was binding on the shift rail so tight that it took a couple of hours to separate the two. Once I finally got them apart, my nerves were completely shot and set them both to the side to be inspected maybe tomorrow. Centered in this picture is the rear output gear. On the right half of the rear output gear is the High Range side of the gear showing quite a bit of wear. If I were guessing, this gear is the original with 282K miles. To the right you can see the input gear that is in good shape. Not shown, is the Low Range gear that would normally be to the left in the picture, and it looks as good as the input gear. The sliding collars are most likely original as well. However the wear was not as pronounced as the rear output gear, but still more wear than I would like. Also the collars had been swapped around by the previous builder for the best fit. Even though this Rear Output Gear was not causing trouble, I am not comfortable with it and have ordered a replacement along with 2 shift collars. Had my wife steading the case while I was pressing out the bearings. One of them let go with a good pop and she was sure we had broke something. LOL. Moses, you might want to jump in with this popping out issue. I will pay very close attention during installation to linkage binding. I am already planning on installing the stiffer JB Conversions detent springs. New shift collars can't hurt. Is there any thing about the shift rails you can thing think of? William
Good morning all, I recently completed a front and rear differential gear swap on my '83 CJ. This included new carriers with a Spartan Locker up front and an Eaton TruTrac in an AMC20 in back. I went with 4.10 gears, and had the U-joints replaced at a truck driveline shop on both driveshafts at the same time. Now that every thing is reassembled, I'm noticing a rattle or buzz coming from the transfer case shifter about 40 MPH or above. I would describe it as sounding like a bunch of nuts and bolts being shaken in a metal can. It seems most noticeable on acceleration or steady speed. It is absent or significantly reduced under coast or engine braking conditions. I haven't had it that fast in 4WD, so I can only confirm it happens in 2HI. I've heard of various internal issues, as well as possible driveshaft phase concerns as possible causes. I DID have the driveshaft out, but I DIDN'T pull it apart. I can't say for sure that it went back in the same way (could be rotated 90-270 degrees), but the two halves are aligned the same as they were before. I'm not noticing any other symptoms of driveline vibrations, but it's a CJ, so it kind of vibrates all the time. Any idea how to isolate the problem? I'm planning to twin stick the Dana 300, and I'd like to eliminate this rattle first so I'm not chasing a problem with multiple possible sources. I ordered a Dana 300 isolator bushing. That should be an easy fix, but I don't really expect that is the issue, as there was no problem before the gear swap and driveshaft U-joint replacement. Any thoughts would be appreciated.