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simple man

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  1. simple man
    I used novak-adaptors. I used their instruction sheet, could be better, Moses's CJ7 Rebuilders Bible and several YouTube videos to get through the build. I also called Novak's tech support several times, especially when I tried to identify the additional parts. Good Luck
  2. simple man
    Well I have finished rebuilding my Dana 300 I thought I would post some thoughts about the process. 1. When I unpacked the rebuild kit that I purchased I ended up with parts that I could not identify as coming from the the Dana 300, very confusing.. Come to find out the kit was a universal kit and also worked with other transfer cases. 2. For the most part the actual rebuild process went easier than anticipated. The main time consuming part of the rebuild was finding out the right combination of sockets, tubing, and plates to press the bearing into place. 3. The one task that was the most frustrating was adjusting the end play for the output shafts. In other cases when I have had to reduce the end play on a shift I would add shims to take up space and therefor reduce end play. And, to increase the end play remove shims. What I found out was that because of were the shims a placed on the output shaft in relation to the bearing the endply adjustment was just the opposite of the "norm". Not being very smart it took me a full day to figure this out. Finally, while I am not looking forward to rebuild another transfer case it is a job I could probably due in half the time it took for this first job.
  3. simple man
    Well, I have gotten the input shaft and front and rear output shafts and the bearing covers together and attached to the case. In trying to check and see how everything is fitting together I attempted to see how the shift rods moved. The rear output rod moves OK but is a little stiff. However the front output rod is almost impossible to move in and out. If I disconnect the front shift fork the rod will move in the case but it is still VERY hard With the front shift fork is disconnected it does not seem to move smoothly along the rod. Is this just an issue of there not being enough lube on the rod, even though the rods were coated with engine assembly lube when put together? Or, could it be a problem with the line up of the interlock plugs? Any suggestions? Rick
  4. simple man
    My reason for my post was my concern that when adding shims the amount of end play would increase and this seemed illogical. I assumed that adding shims would decrease the amount of end play. It has finally struck me me that the amount of end play is reduced by reducing the thickness of the shims. It seems to me now, that reducing the thickness of the shim pack moves the end of the yoke closer to the housing therefore reducing the amount of movement between the input and output shaft, therefore reducing the amount of end play. Is this correct? Rick
  5. simple man
    I have finally gotten around to rebuilding my Dana 300 and have run into a problem regarding setting the end play on the rear output shaft. After assembling the shaft and getting an initial end play reading, .005, I added a .003 shim and remeasured the end play and got a .005 reading. So I added another shim and there was no change in the end play reading. My assumption is that the the inaccuracies in the end play measurements are caused by user error in setting the dial gauge. In setting up and resetting the gauge I may be getting inaccurate readings. In setting the gauge I am trying to place the gauge against the end of the threaded portion of the shaft. However, one questions is could the torquing the yoke on and removing it and replacing it be affecting the output shaft. For example, could I somehow be stretching the shaft? Is there any trick in setting up the dial gauge? Another strange problem I have had when installing the yoke is that the yoke will only fit on the shaft in one specific orientation. If the yoke is placed five splines left or right it will not slide all the way onto the shaft. I have tried the yoke on the input shaft and it doesn't have a problem. Any idea of what may causing this, could the shaft be damaged? Could this be related to the above problem? Thanks
  6. simple man
    SUCCESS. Well after 24+ hours of PB Blaster, judicial application of a BFH, and a couple of trip to the hydraulic press we finally got the Rear output shaft rear bearing separated from the shaft. From the picture you can see the rust that had built up on the inside of the bearing. Also, attached is picture of the cause for all of this aggravation, the rear output shaft front bearing. (It seems to me that the descriptors front and rear bearing for these two should be reversed.) In looking at the condition of all of the bearings in the case it looks like the "front bearing" had failed and the previous owners had and gone into the case and ended up replacing all of the bearings on the input shaft, front output shaft and rear output shaft, with the exception of the front bearing. You can also tell that somebody had worked on the case because some have the bolts had blue thread sealer while others had a yellowish sealant, which I assume was what was used at the time of manufacture. Luckily for me the previous mechanic did not remove all of the debris from the original bearing and that trash came out when I went to change the fluid in the case. So, I figure my next steps are to remove the failed bearing and then finish the disassembly followed by a rebuild. One question before I proceed, can the clutch be removed by driving the shaft out through the back of the case or do I have to remove the bearing off the front of the shaft and then the clutch gear? Thanks
  7. simple man
    Moses, yes the rear bearing cap is loose from the case but will only come approximately 3/4 inch away from the case, see photo. In attempting we have hit the end of the shaft with a dead blow hammer, used an air hammer , with a blunt tip, and used a press. Though with the press we limited the amount of pressure used, not knowing what the limits are. I have seen a YouTube video with someone using a 3 jaw gear puller to remove the cap. Is it safer,from the standpoint of damaging parts, to use a gear puller, attached to the cap, or a hydraulic press pressing down on the end of the shaft. My concern with the gear puller is that it will crack the cap and with the press is that it will press the bearing race deeper into the cap and damage the inside the cap. Also, attached is a photo of the bearing looking from the end of the shaft, the oil seal has been removed. I realize it isn't the greatest photo and I will try to get a better photo later. Thanks
  8. simple man
    Well I have begun disassembling the transfer case and have immediately run into a problem. I cannot remove the rear bearing cap from the rear output shaft. The bearing cap comes about 3/4 inch away from the transfer case put will not come off the shaft, I have tried striking the end of the shaft to knock it away from the cap, I have tried using and air impact hammer (as suggested by Moses in his Rebuilding Jeep book) and I have tried using moderate force from an hydraulic press, all to no avail. Any ideas about what is causing the hangup? A friend suggested a spun bearing race. Does that make sense? Any suggestions on what to try next? Should I just try to put more pressure from the press?
  9. simple man
    Well, I know why I couldn't find the 6th bolt/threaded stud, THERE WASN'T ANY. The hole for the bolt located at the 12 o'clock position was filled in. When feeling behind the transmission case, to where I guess the bolt would exit there is no "exit" hole. The hole is right in front of the transmission shift lever. As you can see from the attached photo it looks like the condition has been there for a while. Any thoughts on why I don't have a 6th bolt? PS I should mention that there is a corresponding 6th hole on the transfer case.
  10. simple man
    I have a similar illustration showing the 6 bolts. According to the diagram I have the bolts are at 60, 120, 180, 240, 300, 360 degrees. Since the case is clocked, I think 20+/- degrees, I wonder are the bolts shifted 20 degrees, i.e. 20, 80, 140, etc degrees? If so, it may just be that I am looking in the wrong place for the "6th" bolt. I'll check it out tomorrow.
  11. simple man
    Quick question, how many bolts are there holding a T5 transmission to the transfer case. I read somewhere that there should be 6 bolts but I can only find 5. I found 3 bolts on the drivers side and 2 on the passenger side. From the illustrations I have seen it looks like there is supposed to be a bolt at the 12 o'clock position. However, when looked through the transmission tunnel cutout for the transfer case shifter I can't see it. Is it behind the transmission shift lever? If so, how do I reach it? Rick
  12. simple man
    Rinky Dink, Thanks for the link, the details on disassembly and assembly will be very useful. I will probably drop the transfer case over the weekend and the start investigating what is going on.
  13. simple man
    Moses, thank you for responding. In response to your question I have a T5 transmission. In talking to somebody this morning they suggested that the parts in the picture are part of the bearing cage. Your opinion? Also, attached is a picture of another piece of metal from the transfer case. In looking at the part closely it appears that the end may have been stretched apart in working it's way through the case,it was more rounded before going through the case, almost like a C clip. Any guess on what this piece was for?
  14. simple man
    I drained the Dana 300 on my '84 CJ-7 and found the bits of metal shown in the attached photo. I also found, not pictured, what looks like half of a plastic sphere about a 1/4 inch in diameter. I have looked at several exploded diagrams of transfer cases and cannot find anything that resembles what I found. Any suggestions as to what these bits are from? Thanks
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