Moses Ludel

Haven't seen the article, so I'm unaware of the "why". Shooting from the hip, here's my take: We have a ’99, and it’s the best 4.0L engine, PCM, overall package. Later have coil-on-plug ignition and a less desirable cylinder head, earlier '96 and '97 have transition from OBD to OBD II electronics. ’91-’94 would be acceptable, some 4.0L sixes in this era have piston noise issues (typically when cold) from block core shift, not necessarily a reliability issue, more a nuisance…’87-’90 is the Renix EFI/MPI, older technology and a less efficient cylinder head, not terrible, just a totally different troubleshooting and diagnostics approach that makes the '91-up Chrysler MPI/EFI system attractive. Of course, for home diagnostics, OBD II is superior and more accessible to an inexpensive code reader or scan tool. ’96 takes the hit for transition from OBD to OBD II issues in the electrical and electronic circuits, some carry to '97. If you notice, there is no "1996" YJ Wrangler, and the first TJ (1997) bursts on the scene with OBD II circuits incorporated. XJ Cherokee sales projections for 1996 were too strong to skip a model year, so haphazard OBD II wiring, electronics and an OBD II type PCM strategy went into place on this model. Though they do not list '84-'86 XJ Cherokee models (as most won't), these vehicles are okay with the 2.5L four (if you like four-cylinder power), better yet the 1986-90 2.5L four with TBI. If stuck with a 2.8L V-6, consider a G.M. 3.4L bolt-in V-6 crate motor replacement that eliminates the weak small journal crankshaft, rear main seal leaks and other quirks with the early design 2.8L V-6. As an historical point of interest, AMC got stuck with this early version 2.8L V-6 engine through 1986, even though G.M. vehicles went to a better/bigger journal crankshaft and rear main design in the 1985 2.8L V-6. If the 3.4L V-6 crate engine is still in the G.M. parts inventory, listed as a direct replacement for the 2.8L V-6, you can get respectable performance and have a carbureted V-6 that actually works. I would expect to pay a song for any '84-'87 XJ Cherokee, the only incentive for buying one. I’d say the Jp assessment is reasonable. There are quirks with any of the XJ Cherokee model year groups, and items like the vacuum disconnect front axle come to mind for earlier years—the ’98-’99 might have the least foibles. Overall, the XJ Cherokee offers an inexpensive price of admission and often matches the Toyota 300K Mile Club for reliability and longevity. I might add that it's much easier to service and restore an XJ Cherokee than any Toyota truck in that year range! Moses

As a point of interest, I looked up the popular recalls for our Ram 3500 trucks, Megatron...Your recall might have been related to the Fabtech or Super Lift pitman arms. Or maybe you caught the tie-rod end recall that I received. (This is for later models or any '03-up that had a tie-rod end changed using Mopar parts.) In any case, these are the two recalls posted, nothing specific to the steering gearbox yet: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2006/dodge/ram_3500/recalls/. Did your recall fall under the steering box itself or these other two items? The dealer would have avoided a repair on the pitman arm, as you use the Carli item. You might compare your 2010 steering linkage to the tie-rod end recall. Make sure your T-linkage has the safe tie-rod ends and not the tie-rod ends that Mopar recalled...

While many see modern Land Rovers as eccentric tractability for the world's gentry, one model is a clear exception: the Defender 90. Land Rover's legacy of rugged, military grade 4x4s comes together in this iconic and sought after model. Bill Burke of 4-Wheeling America has been a personal friend for many years now. We co-instructed 'Tread Lightly' 4WD Clinics across the U.S. years ago, and Bill is a Camel Trophy veteran...I competed in the CliffsNotes version, the Land Rover Trek competition, which did a much abbreviated (all in one long day) facsimile, using Land Rover Discovery models. Bill has been a Defender 90 aficionado ever since his Camel Trophy experience. A closer look at this model reveals why. When he purchased his Land Rover Defender 90, Bill was in his element! He has carefully maintained and upgraded this 4x4 to meet every need in his four-wheeling instructional and guiding service. I've driven the popular, shorter wheelbase off road 4x4s built since 1941 and have owned or officially tested more than my share. The short list for optimal 'wheeling would be Jeep CJs, Wranglers, the Land Cruisers, Nissan Patrol, Ford Bronco, I-H Scout and Scout II and the Defender 90. I single out these vehicles because benchmark, tight access routes like the Rubicon Trail have very specific requirements. I have a quick formula for vehicles well suited for tight, twisting 4x4 trails. Since most popular 4x4s can now be chassis "lifted" and equipped with oversized tires, it comes down to useful wheelbase lengths. In my view, the best 4x4s for Rubicon Trail travel have a wheelbase no longer than 104". I use this arbitrary length to include the vintage Jeep CJ-6, CJ-8 Scrambler or an XJ Cherokee in modified form. A short wheelbase improves break-over angle. Good approach and departure angles make the best trail runners... Note: Some might ask why I don't stretch that figure to the 116" JK Wrangler Unlimited's wheelbase length. That Jeep needs 37" diameter (significantly oversized!) tires to successfully negotiate the rougher sections of the Rubicon Trail without damage. The Land Rover Defender 90 has a 92.9" wheelbase, Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser has a 90" wheelbase, and the original Ford Bronco is a 92" wheelbase. Track widths are similar, and all three of these vehicles have excellent approach and departure angles—as do Jeep CJs and Wranglers. Narrower dimensions of traditional, short wheelbase Jeep utility 4x4s excel on ultra-tight access trails. The JK Wrangler is the wider, longer exception, these features intended for better vehicle control on-highway and, overall, a lower center of gravity to reduce rollover risk. I have owned two FJ40s and would characterize them as among the very best off-pavement 4x4s ever. The wider track width lends center-of-gravity stability, the shorter wheelbase provides tight back country access—yet still offers reasonable on-highway handling for a 4x4 designed for primitive country. To prove this point, I once towed a 21-foot travel trailer across the Mojave Desert in a wind storm. That FJ40 OFF-ROAD Magazine project had a 383 Chevy V-8 stroker motor conversion, and I used a load distribution/equalizer hitch with a sway control brake (neither item out of the ordinary for safe towing). The vehicle was rock steady. A Defender 90 or early (1966-77) Ford Bronco can be set up to accomplish the same. More details about the Defender 90 and its predecessors: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_Defender_90#Land_Rover_Ninety_.26_One_Ten Simply on dimensions alone, the Defender 90 scores well. Add to that a separate ladder frame with beam front and rear axles, refined and tuned suspension, and the Defender 90 ranks up there. Overseas, the turbo-diesel powered Defender was hugely successful. In the U.S. market, which only lasted from 1993-97, the proven aluminum 3.9L and 4.0L V-8 worked well. I know this engine from its roots, the 'sixties Buick/Olds 215 aluminum V-8. We can discuss that history if you'd like! I'd value opinions from Defender 90 owners and seekers. Join this forum and let the discussion begin! Moses

The photos are terrific, Megatron! I'll have to start uploading pics at larger sizing. Your pics are a bit big...What are the dimensions? What file sizes? I'll split the size difference in my future uploads, currently using 360 pixel width. I like to keep file size to 120KB max, so resolution/sharpness may determine the pictures' pixel width. Interesting about the recall, I haven't gotten a notice yet on the '05, wonder if it's in the cohort group for the recall? Regardless, I'll work with Mopar to get this gear kit...From looking at your pitman arm, it appears to have more drop than mine, though the measurements sound close. It also does not have what I call a "rake" or tip downward at the draglink/tie-rod ball-stud end. As you emphasize, the angle of the draglink looks consistent with the dropped track bar slope: The sector attachment face looks parallel to the tie-rod/draglink attachment plane. Am I seeing that accurately? Also, the splines look swaged down from the beefier sector shaft diameter (which is clearly much larger than the OEM gear!). Are these splines the same as the OEM pitman? I knew the steering gear kit includes a pitman arm and presumed that the new arm is to compensate for larger splines on the sector. Is that correct? You do have a cool gear brace. Is that part for the stock original gear? Whose brace kit—Carli? Does the support brace have a bearing that rotates with the sector shaft? Looks like it supports the lower end of the sector—at the nut? Your system does have gains at the linkage to resist toe-change. The one piece tie-rod between the knuckles is a major improvement for toe control! However, I don't see a steering damper attachment on the tie-rod between the steering knuckles. In my photos of our OEM Y-linkage, there is a damper ball stud seat on the tie-rod. The Mopar lift kit uses that ball-stud mount point to align and reinforce the center support for the two steering dampers...Where does that end up with the '09-up T-steering linkage? From your photos, I see one more thing we have in common: The desire to improve aftermarket lift kits. Looks like your "bolt-on" kit needed better bracket attachments through welding. (Your dropped track bar bracket at the frame is a good example. I elected to do the same with my install.) I also like what I can see of your stabilizer bar links, Heim joints and hefty mount plates...Welding is an essential skill in this business! Moses

Everyone knows the Nissan Pathfinder, Xterra and other Nissan SUVs. A few of us recall the original NIssan Patrol 60-series, a rugged alternative to the vintage FJ40 Toyota Land Cruiser. To time stamp this model, the last Nissan Patrol sold in the U.S. market during 1969... Being a traditional Land Cruiser buff, I always enjoyed stumbling onto a vintage Nissan Patrol. If you have one and would like to share details, consider joining this forum! It would be great to discuss your interest in the Nissan Patrol. Have you restored it? Modified the vehicle? What about parts availability and service access? I'm curious whether many of these U.S. spec models remain intact and unmodified. We see FJ40s often in pristine, original condition or restored to that state. Is this true of the U.S. Nissan Patrol? Join the forums and let us know the scope and interest level around these classic 4x4s. Has your vintage Nissan Patrol done major trail runs? If so, where? How many folks have an interest in these Datsun-era 4x4s? Looking for a moderated, sensible forum to discuss your Nissan 4x4? It would be great to see photos—membership (for free) entitles access and secure photo uploads...or provide a link to your photo bucket! Moses

We live at a semi-rural town, and Toyota 4x4s dot the landscape and roads as far as the eye can see! Last week, I was walking our tri-mix Australian Shepherd, Maggie, across a field to the local Starbucks, her favorite hangout. Over a quarter-mile away, I could see a lifted, white-red-and black truck standing tall on big tires. From a distance, I thought, "Ford, Chevy or Dodge Ram?...That's a big, aggressive looking truck!" Well, it was a Tundra, and it did look tough! We have Tundras in the family, one brother-in-law pulls a travel trailer. He's talked about front brake rotor issues but otherwise been thrilled with the truck... Toyota earned its way into the full-size light truck market, and it took a long time to develop a vehicle they would call a Toyota 4x4 pickup! I worked with the I-Force engine close-up at the launch of the Sequoia. John Davis (PBS Motorweek fame) and I were commissioned to do the national point-of-sale dealership introduction DVD for this model and other Toyota truck/SUV models. On film, I emphasized the I-Force V-8 gains. I'd like to know what you're doing with your Toyota 4x4 pickup, the Tundra or Tacoma—or 4Runner. Let's get that conversation going, right here at this forum—and get others to join! Moses

If you have a forum hangout for your FJ or DJ Land Cruiser model or FJ Cruiser and Sequoia, that's great! If, however, you're looking for a place to get additional, researched details, troubleshooting tips or restoration facts, consider joining this forum and bookmarking it! When I wrote the Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser Owner's Bible in the 'nineties, Toyota provided service material and data that still fills a full shelf of my bookcases. Yes, I'm a Land Cruiser guy, as many know already, and I still recognize an F, 2F or 3F engine's pitch from a mile away on the Rubicon Trail! I've also combed Moab in an FJ Cruiser, so there's a long span to my Toyota experience... I'd like to know what's new with your vintage FJ40, 45 60 or 80 projects. Let me know what you think of the FJ Cruiser and Sequoia! If you do need tech support or how-to, I'm available. We can get others to participate, too, and build a fresh, sensible Toyota 4x4 community! Moses

There are some very good I-H truck and Scout/Scout II forums online! So, why would you want to join this one? Well, for one thing, here's an opportunity to start a forum from the ground up, to build the kind of dialogue you like, and to know that there's oversight with credible, well-researched facts! I have been a staunch I-H truck guy from early-on, having grown up in ranching country with an I-H dealership at its hub. I know I-H trucks and the Scout from its earliest, slant-four models. I even know the quirks and foibles of that earlier technology! As a footnote, many mature I-H folks know me for the OFF-ROAD Magazine 'Holy Moses!' tech columns in the '80s and '90s, when I fielded endless questions on 4x4s and always included International-Harvester trucks. My comments once drew the attention of Gale Banks—he puzzled over my staunch support for a 1956 I-H S120 4x4...I had seen these trucks at work in the 'sixties. My respect for I-H pickups, the Travelall and the Scout II remain high to this day. I'd like to hear your experiences and share mine, compare your 'Line Ticket' to others' equipment, even discuss modifications and upgrades—alongside the pure restoration tips and mechanical 'how-to' that many owners seek. In my view, International-Harvester built some of the best light trucks ever, with in-house and outsourced components that were unrivaled. These one-off, virtually hand-built light trucks often have no match. If you join this forum, I've got a wall of bookcases with resource materials on repairs, restoration and technical data for I-H trucks and Scout models...Interested? I'm ready to talk and share! Moses

The first new vehicle we ever bought was a 1985 Ford Bronco II. It had a unique option package with factory limited-slip units front and rear, a nifty 5-speed with overdrive and the 2.8L V-6—with carburetor. Handling was actually okay despite the higher center of gravity, Ford did a good job with the miniaturized Twin-Traction Beam front axle and the solid rear axle with ladder frame! Had we waited another year, the 2.9L MPI V-6 would have added both performance and fuel efficiency, yet the 2.8L is noted for its reliability and respectable torque. For the time, Ford put forth a great 4WD compact vehicle, and there are many who would agree that the Ranger and Bronco II did their job. I'd like to hear your views about these Ford pickups and SUVs. If you have troubleshooting or upgrade questions, I'll join that conversation, too! Become a member and help build a forum discussion around these Ford 4WD vehicles... Moses

Ford has played a major role in the SUV market. In 1966, the original Bronco raised 4x4s to multipurpose, highway worthy levels, especially after the introduction of the 289 V-8 option! Sure, Jeep had its new V-6 in the CJs, and I-H dropped a 266 V-8 into the Scout, but each of these vehicles was old news in the handling and drivability department... I believe that Ford made modern technology accessible to off-road vehicles, upgrading powertrains to levels of performance that make SUVs popular to this day. If you'd like to share your views and get feedback on technology, repairs, troubleshooting and upgrades, I'd be pleased to participate at this forum! Have a vintage Bronco or full-size Bronco? An SUV with the blue oval badge? Join, post your comments, and let's get others involved! Moses

So you like your Ford trucks? What vintage? I've been at it with Ford light and medium-duty trucks since I was fourteen-years-old—I just turned 64, so that makes it a half century now! My experience reaches to the pre-WWII V-8 era, and the ever popular F-trucks became the topic for my Bentley Publishers book, the Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible. I teethed on Ford flathead V-8s and the Y-block engines and can talk to that technology till I run out of breath. Whether its an 8BA, 8RT or 8CM flathead or a 239, 256, 272, 292 or 312 Y-block V-8, I know vintage Ford F-truck performance! Want to talk about ECZ heads for a 312? FE big-blocks, from '65-up, the 460, a small-block 302, 351W or 351M/400? Been there, happy to discuss! The Triton, the Navistar diesel, you name it, I'll join the conversation... I know Ford 4x4 trucks from the beginning, can rebuild a Gemmer steering gear to factory spec, and I've restored both a '55 F100 (in the late 'sixties) and an '87 F150 4x4 (in the 'nineties). I did mechanical restoration work professionally, with a focus on vintage steering gears and automatic transmissions. Did Ford and Gemmer steering, B-W automatics, C-4 and C-6 and all manual transmissions. (Click to enlarge photos, members have access to photos—all for free!) Troubleshooting, modifications, upgrades? Join the forums, post topics, expect replies...We'll get others involved, too! Moses

G.M. truck owners, come on board! I'd like to dialogue with owners and shops involved with the S/T trucks and Sierra/Silverado models, hear about your enthusiasm for the 4x4 pickups, Suburban and Blazer/Jimmy or Yukon. Share your modifications, upgrades, 6.2L, 6.5L and Duramax diesel experiences, LS performance gains—whatever! I worked as a G.M.C. truck dealership line tech in the '80s and followed the transition of these models. My Chevrolet & GMC Light Truck Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers) drew from that experience...I can talk diesel, gas, LS engines, modifications, chassis dynamics, axle and powertrain rebuilding. (Late G.M. owners, see my popular AAM 11.5" axle step-by-step article and the 9.25" axle build in HD video at the magazine.) I'm here for troubleshooting and diagnostics discussion, too! Join the forums, post your topics, and let's talk! We'll get others on board and find a sensible alternative to piddling your time away at Facebook and Twitter! Moses

From the time I first gazed at a NAPCO-converted '57 GMC short box, V-8 powered pickup to our last two Suburban K2500 beam front axle models, vintage G.M. beam front axle K-trucks have held my attention...I recall test driving an early press fleet '88 Chevrolet Silverado (GMC Sierra) 4WD IFS pickup in its first release to the media in the spring of 1987—wondering, "What is G.M. thinking here!" G.M. hit stride in the 'sixties and 'seventies, setting a benchmark for 4x4 trucks. Our 1973 Chevrolet K10 short bed with a 350 V-8 and 465 Muncie truck box was among the best vehicles we've ever owned. Even our Dodge Ram 3500 was purchased largely for its beam front axle—a design that G.M. trucks taught everyone to value. I know what works for G.M. beam axle trucks...Do you have questions? Want to share what today's "built" G.M. beam axle truck is all about? Join the forums and get the conversation going! Moses

This data is very helpful, "Megatron", especially for Dodge Ram HD truck owners from our model year group! I talked with Jeff Grantmeyer (Sales Manager at Borgeson) when I started this quest, we met at the SEMA MPMC Media Trade Conference in January. Jeff wanted to participate with the magazine's projects. On the Borgeson replacement gear, Jeff refers to a "larger sector". I looked forward to using the upgrade Borgeson gear until I read the fine print: It only works with a stock (not dropped) pitman arm. Also, further discussion revealed a unique (G.M. size) sector. G.M. is IFS and has a different steering linkage configuration, so there is apparently no G.M.-type dropped pitman arm that will fit the Borgeson gear and work with the Dodge Ram steering linkage. Simply put, according to Jeff, the Borgeson gear is an upgrade gear meant to be used with OEM linkage on a stock height truck...Raises the question whether Carli has a dropped Dodge Ram type arm for this gear application. Interesting point about steering arm/draglink ball stud angle and the track bar angle—their relationship as a possible contributor to 'Death Wobble'. When we wrap up our current topic, I'll post a new topic on "Death Wobble", a regularly aired 4x4 truck, Jeep and lifted suspension issue. Pleased about your 6-bolt reference, I'm definitely going down the Mopar upgrade road for a steering gear choice. Also, when you have the 2010 truck at your shop, do me a favor: Compare the steering sector shaft angle and its relationship to the steering linkage. You share that the 2010 OEM T-type steering linkage fits your '03-'08 Dodge Ram with a Carli dropped pitman arm and the Mopar upgrade 68170214AA steering gear. Here are photos from my 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 with stock steering linkage, the OEM stock steering gear and the Mopar 4" lift kit: This is the stock steering linkage and original steering gear on our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500. The pitman arm is a dropped type for the 4" Mopar lift kit. The double steering damper shocks use the OEM damper mount (ball stud seat) as the inner bracket locating point. (U-clamps hold the bracket to the OEM tie-rod.) The two weaknesses we're addressing are 1) the OEM steering gear (note weeping PS fluid from sector seal, reflecting lateral movement/wear at the sector and bearings) and 2) the Y-type steering linkage that contributes to wander in some applications, replacing it with the later "T-style" Mopar steering linkage. Click on photos to enlarge. If you cannot see any photos, considering joining the forums, members have full access to photos and other features—for free! I measure approximately 3-1/2" drop of the pitman, considering the rake at the draglink attachment point. Note that the draglink ball stud points upward into the pitman. Is this the overall relationship of parts when using the 2010 "T" steering linkage on your truck? We're piecing together a sturdy, safe steering system. I'm pleased about the Mopar steering gear, as fit will not be an issue; the steering shaft can be either stock or Borgeson replacement for stock. Doubt that I need a brace with the 34.6" tires. My only thought is frame stress from the beefy gear's force without the brace. Sounds like a Carli dropped pitman arm and a brace, when available, should be added to the Mopar upgrade gear and T-type steering linkage parts list...My tires are not extraordinary size, strain is not much more than stock. Wander was not an issue prior to the sector/bearing wear on the OEM gear. Thanks for moving this discussion forward, Megatron! Folks need a reliable, consistent method for upgrading the steering. Safety and longevity of the steering system are the focus here. The online consensus is that there are two target weaknesses in the '03-'08 (you mention 2002 as well?) Dodge Ram HD trucks: the OEM steering gear and the steering linkage design, each contributing to wander and handling issues—plus safety concerns around the failure-prone steering gear...Admittedly, all of this gets aggravated by the switch to popular suspension lifts and the use of oversized tires. Looking forward to your findings...Others will benefit, too! Moses

Pleased to get your feedback on the Mopar retrofit upgrade steering gear, a nice endorsement considering your 37" tires. Since you went to the 2010 "T" steering linkage, your pitman arm/draglink joint works with the Carli dropped arm, right? Does Carli make a 4" drop arm for this gear as well? I'm running a 4-inch lift. My description of the Pure Performance steering linkage was about eliminating the 2005 Y-linkage (stock) and using the pitman arm (no drop) that comes with the Mopar 68170214AA steering gear kit. Pure Performance linkage works with a stock pitman arm on 4" to 6" lifts. Does this steering gear use the same size sector/pitman arm as the 2009-up stock gear? Or is this a third size sector: 2003-2008 stock, 2009-up stock and 2003-2008 Mopar upgrade steering gear? Do you know which sector size or application Carli's pitman arm fits? Also, are you running the stock steering shaft still, or did you go to a Borgeson shaft? Thanks much, and great to have your feedback! Moses

In my view, diesel engines and fuel efficiency follow a simple formula: Run the engine as close to its torque peak, and you'll realize the best fuel efficiency. We have a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 5.9L, stone stock engine, no "chip" or exhaust modifications, the truck is just as it came from the factory (purchased new in fall of 2004). We have a friend with a 2004 model, similar, and we've compared fuel mileage for years now. I've gotten as much as 25 mpg on an unloaded trip from east of Reno, Nevada to Portland, Oregon. I've pulled a loaded car hauling trailer (Jeep XJ Cherokee on board) to Moab, Utah and managed 17-18 mpg at interstate speeds. Even after "lifting" the truck and adding oversized tires plus enough accessories to push the curb weight above 9000 pounds with fuel on board, I've coaxed 22-24 mpg out of the truck on flat interstate runs. So, how is this possible? Very simple. I'm an ex-heavy equipment operator and know diesel engines. These engines have a quick torque rise, more so the Cummins among the light truck applications. This means that torque comes on quickly, peaks as horsepower builds, and the overall rpm range of the engine is way less than a gasoline engine. Note: My lesson for all this was running heavy equipment "in the day", primarily with 1693 Cat engines: At 893 cubic inches, these inline six monsters would reach 1090 lb/ft peak torque by 1000 rpm—that's just off-idle! Our friend seldom achieves more than 18 mpg from his Dodge Ram 2500. He also has the NV5600 six-speed manual transmission, and I have the "inefficient" 48RE four-speed automatic. What's wrong with this picture? The engine operating rpm and our driving technique differences. A few years back, I asked my friend what rpm he uses for shift points. His reply was 2500 rpm. The 5.9L Cummins H.O. inline six peaks its torque at 1600 rpm and redlines at 3400 rpm. In my experience, optimal fuel efficiency on the highway with this engine has been in the 1600-1900 rpm range, the best mileage achieved around 1600 rpm when not under load. Overall, for fuel mileage, the shifts points for this engine should be 1400-1600 when unloaded, 1600 if possible when loaded. There are times, of course, when the 1600-1900 rpm range is necessary to keep a load moving, and even higher rpm may be necessary for acceleration and climbing grades. When I modified the '05 truck with the lift kit and aftermarket accessories, adding a good deal of weight in the process, the original axle gear (3.73 with OEM tires) was no longer viable. While I believed the "overdriving effect" of oversized tires might benefit mileage, the added load and taller gearing effect actually decreased mileage dramatically—especially trailer pulling. In selecting axle gear sets to compensate, the new 35" diameter tires required 4.10:1 gears for a direct speedometer correction. I considered the new, unladen weight of the truck and our plans to pull trailers. My choice was to go even lower (numerically higher) on the gearing. The AAM 11.5" and 9.25" axles do not offer a ratio between 4.10 and 4.56:1, so I went with 4.56:1. This raises the engine rpm at a given speed when compared to the OEM gearing with the original tire diameter. For trailering and the new vehicle weight, I thought the trade-off worthwhile. Note: Cummins actually recommends 2100-2400 rpm for peak efficiency in commercial use of the ISB diesel engine. They would like to see 2100 rpm at 65 mph and no operating below 1900 rpm under load at highway cruise speeds. In stock form, 1900 rpm netted approximately 69 mph. Switching to 4.56:1 gearing, 2000 rpm (with overdrive at 0.69:1) nets close to 65 mph. True to my expectations, my peak fuel efficiency is now at 65 mph or lower, a calculated change. If I hold the truck to 55-65 mph, the unloaded peak mileage is 23-24 mpg. For trailer towing purposes, California caps at 55, Nevada allows for 75 at best, with 65 being plenty of speed for trailer pulling—if you care about mileage...This means watching rpm during upshifts as well. I'm very pleased with this truck's fuel efficiency. Perhaps a chip could improve this further, although my belief is that driving technique holds far more sway over fuel efficiency than any other factor. If you have a 5.9L Cummins and would like to experience better fuel efficiency, watch your tachometer. If I creep over 1950 rpm, the price will be a linear increase in fuel consumption. By 2100-2200 rpm, fuel efficiency, reflecting load as well, begins to drop like a rock... Moses

The Jeep Liberty, Commander and Patriot have a loyal following. We bought the first year KJ Liberty model introduced in 2002 and were impressed with its content. Familiar with the XJ Cherokee, I knew immediately that the Liberty offered substance and way more technology than its predecessor. Each of these three Jeep 4WD models have more technology than a TJ or YJ Wrangler or the XJ Cherokee. The service needs are also greater and should follow OEM guidelines...If you have a need for answers and want to dialogue with other owners, this is the place! Better yet, I'll throw my professional card into the mix and offer researched, technical answers to your concerns. There are many Liberty vehicles now available in the used marketplace, and that number will swell. There is an aftermarket for upgrades and off-pavement modifications...The Liberty, in particular, has an off-road propensity, as many have discovered. Built properly, a Liberty can negotiate—and survive—rougher off-pavement use. As the price of admission to Jeep KJ Liberty ownership continues to drop, buyer interest and aftermarket support for off-pavement use will increase—just as it did with the XJ Cherokee. When many speculated that the XJ Cherokee's doors would likely bind from twisting the uni-body in off-pavement use, owners defied that challenge and did it anyway. And guess what? Few XJ Cherokee doors ever did bind, it takes a huge amount of abuse to tweak a uni-body chassis. This will be even more true with the Liberty—and Commander. Find out how your Liberty or Commander can survive off-pavement punishment—join this forum and post your topics and replies! Moses

The magazine's 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 is typical. Having minimal trail strain, the Jeep 4.0L Sport runs reliably and quite happily at 140K plus miles...Some would say the Jeep is just broken-in now... In fact, 4.0L Jeep Wrangler, XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche and Grand Cherokee models do benefit from preventive care, just like any other vehicle. Regular service can make the difference between a 150K-160K lifespan and the legendary 300K mile XJ Cherokees. So, what's in need of attention on our XJ Cherokee? What will I be doing soon? Well, the right front door's window and door lock switch is defunct. I found the switch online: Mopar #56009451AC for 1999 XJ Cherokee, 4WD left hand drive, 4-door, the right front/passenger door. Cost is just under $75, including S&H. Expect an update, I'll likely do a how-to video for the magazine, covering the switch installation along with a tour of the door's inner mechanisms and the power window regulator! Then, there's the dashboard gauge quirk, sudden "zero" of the gauges, especially if the Cherokee sets for more than a bit in the sun...There's a factory TSB on this one, and I have the Mopar service kit (very inexpensive) waiting on my work bench for installation. Since the dash and gauge panel require removal, I'm saving that 'how-to' for when the weather is balmy and time is on my side. The twin Spal fans have worked flawlessly since installation with the Griffin upgrade radiator. I set the fans to run after ignition shutoff, dropping coolant temp to 185-degrees F before restart. After replacing the battery, I'm more conscious about the two-minute or so drain following engine shutoff in hot weather. I'll take the time to rewire the fan trigger relays for Key-On only operation. Not surprising for a 4.0L AMC inline six, the Cherokee's engine could benefit from a new rear main seal, but I would rather do that major chore during a 4.6L stroker motor buildup—if/when the time comes...Simply changing to 10W-40 in the summer has staved off the mild drip or two after parking. There's no measurable oil consumption, so this is more a nuisance and strain on the driveway cement over time. I use a drip pan when parked in the carport. Shocks, 6-inch long arm suspension and steering damper are doing well for the moment. BFG tires are new and balanced, I do rotate regularly, so the wheels are good. I will do a rear brake shoe service 'how-to' for the benefit of Jeep owners, the rear brakes are original and could use replacement lining and wheel cylinder attention. I always vacuum purge the hydraulic system of old brake fluid during this service and may consider a D.O.T. 4 replacement brake fluid after confirming its compatibility. You'll like the 'how-to', probably in HD video, when I do this job... Caution: You cannot use D.O.T. 5 silicone-based fluid in a system that has any remnant of D.O.T. 3 or 4 fluid. D.O.T. 5.1 has a lower silicone content and is sometimes tolerated by non-silicone brake systems. My rule of thumb: Don't get "creative" here. The safe bet for an XJ Cherokee is D.O.T. 3 when specified, D.O.T. 4 if compatible. Read the owner's manual or the fluid reservoir cap. Use the specified brake fluid...If you're concerned about the 'hygroscopic' (water bonding) nature of D.O.T. 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids, flush or vacuum the fluid through the system with fresh brake fluid—periodically. Still have questions? Post them, and I'll reply! The air conditioning works but could use a recharge. That's another how-to for the magazine. I'd like to share how doing this chore properly can save a bundle in repairs and also make your A/C like new. Stay tuned, it's summer, and I'm motivated! Overall, the Jeep XJ Cherokee has been the least expensive to keep utility 4x4 we've ever owned. No point in taking advantage of such a vehicle, it does deserve better! Moses

There are scores of Jeep JK Wrangler forums, and why not? Chrysler/Jeep just announced the build of the one-millionth JK Wrangler, and that's something to boast about! I fielded the Camp Jeep Mopar Tent workshop questions for over a decade, and when the TJ transitioned to the new JK Wrangler platform, it was immediately clear that the new Wrangler had a more robust and stiffer frame. The suspension tuning level, NVH advancements and sound deadening were unfounded in earlier Jeep utility models—yet the iconic ladder frame and beam axles were still in place... This vehicle went on to steal the SUV market with its popular Unlimited four-door option. The Rubicon Edition enjoys an industry-wide reputation. When I tested the 2012 model with the Pentastar 3.6L V-6 replacement for the 3.8L V-6, the new A580 five-speed automatic transmission got my attention. I tested and personally picked the 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 4x4 as the magazine's "Best SUV of the Year!" Note: If you're curious about the JK Wrangler coverage and perspective at the magazine, type 'JK Wrangler' into the keyword list at the magazine's search box. When the economic debacle hit, the days of the Suburban and Excursion were already done. The Jeep JK Wrangler quickly filled a consumer void, and the idea of having a good time, not just getting from point 'A' to point 'B', captured the imagination of new buyers. Our fresh forums hold the promise of reaching 4x4 enthusiasts at a new level. In the case of JK Wrangler owners, this means everyone from the Rubicon Trail runners who really do need 37" diameter tires to suburban families trying to maintain a vehicle and feed a family at the same time. Wondering just what kind of information you can find here? Join and post your topics! Expect objective, "real" replies that won't have you asking your bank for an extended line of credit to buy "must have" modifications and upgrades. Sure, there's a place for upgrades, and I'd be pleased to point out when and why. Expect candid answers to questions like which model Jeep JK Wrangler to buy in the first place or what you really need to reach your planned destinations. There's no agenda at this forum. The goal is simply safe, fun use of your 4x4 JK Wrangler. Whether maximizing fuel economy is your aim, restoring or replacing powertrain components, or prepping for the ultimate destination four-wheeling, get your facts straight—here! We welcome your forum membership and participation... Moses

So, you're considering a Jeep FSJ restoration, maybe a multipurpose, family-oriented vehicle? While the quintessential off-pavement build is a 2-door, full-size Cherokee from the AMC/Jeep era, the Wagoneer finds begin with the 1968 models. The first Buick 350 V-8 offering, loaded with accessories and power option content, epitomized the true "luxury class" Wagoneer. In fairness, we could push that date back to the AMC 327 Vigilante V-8 models of the mid-'sixties, certainly the groundbreaking Super Wagoneer. Despite the truck-based ranching culture of Carson Valley, I remember Super Wagoneers on the showroom floor at C.O.D. Garage, Minden, Nevada, when I was a high school student. The Super Wagoneer looked impressive at the Carson Valley Country Club parking lot in those years...Paradoxical that this advanced design, luxurious 4WD vehicle sold alongside F-head four-cylinder CJ-5 and CJ-6 models in 1965! The last, traditional Willys-style Pickup and Station Wagon had recently rolled off the assembly line, replaced by the modern Gladiator J-trucks and Wagoneer. If you know Jeep technology, the Willys era models could trace their design origins to the 1941 Model MB. By contrast, the Wagoneer led the industry in new 4WD technology. Imagine the Jeep Corporation assembly lines and drawing boards of the 1962-65 era! AMC's acquisition of Jeep Corporation took the Wagoneer to the next level, eventually evolving into the Grand Wagoneer. This cult classic has been a regular movie star, appearing in motion pictures from its inception. The Grand Wagoneer became the middle- to upper-middle class icon of American 4WD transportation, popular in Hollywood's depiction of suburban and upscale country life...Pay attention to the movies and television, count the number of Grand Wagoneer stars and props! That brings me to one of our family's favorite vehicles. Just prior to the unsettled shift in American culture to a post-9/11 mindset, we stumbled onto our 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. Dark blue, wood-trimmed and glistening in the morning sunlight at a Carson City supermarket parking lot, the 4x4 sported a "For Sale" sign with phone number. I combed the Jeep topside and bottom, confirming that the vehicle was a truly original, well-maintained J-model. It took two minutes to decide that a phone call was warranted, and by that afternoon, we were the happy owners at a purchase price of $6200. A two-owner, documented Jeep Grand Wagoneer, the vehicle ran and handled flawlessly. With it came the famous ride quality with the factory sway bar and compliant spring rates. Donna immediately seized on the vehicle's agility, a bona fide J-truck chassis with a wide wheel track for stability, a shortened wheelbase, all adding up to a superb ride: Some dimensions—1987 Grand Wagoneer overall length is 186.4 inches, width 74.8 inches, wheelbase of 108.7 inches. 37.1 inches of front headroom, 36.8 inches of rear headroom, 40.5 inches of front legroom and 37 inches of rear legroom. Curb weight around 6,200 pounds—hefty! Your wife, like Donna, would be enchanted with the Grand Wagoneer. Step on the gas, the 360 V-8 and 727 Torqueflite respond immediately. Brakes are larger power disc/drum, 1/2-ton J-truck grade, outstanding stopping power. Wide, Dana 44 axles front and rear, open knuckle front with 5-degrees positive caster for a tight turning radius and ease of parking. Solid, easy entry and exit from the four doors, a tailgate with power window, generous leather upholstered seats, power everything for the era, what's not to like? Behind the scenes, I did the PM (preventive maintenance) on this Grand. AMC made sure there were inherent weaknesses and quirks, like the embrittlement-prone nylon window lift tracks, touchy tailgate window mechanism and the vacuum shifting mechanism for the 229 transfer case. While Donna enjoyed the driving time, I kept the AMC issues at bay: changing the oil pump gears to a high volume kit (timing cover/oil pump housing was still functional, most unusual); rolled in new rod and main bearings while changing out the leaking rear main seal; restored the tired emission controls, changed the A/C system over to R134a (system virtually 'spit out ice cubes' following the recharge, amazing York compressor!); rebuilt the 2150 series Motorcraft carburetor. My "blueprint" rebuild of the 2150 and careful adjustment of its altitude device produced extraordinary results! This engine started like an EFI motor, accelerated likewise, and performed flawlessly year 'round, even with sub-freezing starts when parked in winter. The fundamental simplicity of the 2100/2150 Motorcraft carburetor is a joy, and if you simply remember to depress the accelerator to set the choke and provide a small shot of fuel to the cold engine, this wonderful carburetor and the conventional Motorcraft distributor perform much like EFI. The Grand Wagoneer retained Motorcraft 2150 carburetion and a conventional distributor though the last, 1991 model built. I watched the front track bar frame attachment point carefully, as many Grand Wagoneers have broken these brackets loose, but our '87 stayed intact. The A727 transmission and even the 229 transfer case worked flawlessly—well past the century mark on the odometer. When we purchased a new 2002 Liberty, our mistaken notion was that the era of the Grand Wagoneer had passed. We imagined that consistent 14-15 highway mpg was no longer sustainable at "foreign oil" fuel prices, and we talked ourselves into selling the Grand Wagoneer...What a mistake. I tolerated the Liberty and its best-ever 19 mpg for two years, lamenting the whole time about the loss of the 'Grand. Donna was a bit kinder about the Liberty than I was, although she wasn't the one to change spark plugs on the 3.7L V-6—using a piece of fuel hose to carefully hold and work the new plugs into their out of reach spark plug positions—and start them into the soft, aluminum cylinder head spark plug threads...Curious about the fuel hose trick? Post the question, I'll reply! When asked about her favorite vehicle, Donna still responds promptly, "My favorite car ever was the Grand Wagoneer..." Funny that she still insists it was a "car". Motorheads know the Jeep Grand Wagoneer as the most rugged SUV truck ever built...That's the mystique of the Jeep FSJ models, especially the now classic Grand Wagoneer... Moses

There's never been a time when someone else performed my motorcycle service work...Having always purchased "pre-owned" bikes, more than a dozen of them over the last half-century, there's never been a warranty requirement for taking a cycle "back to the dealer"... Of course, I strongly support OEM tech training and service work performed to factory specs at the dealership. For those who do not want to work on their own cycle, I recommend factory-trained techs and tooling. OEM parts are always a plus, I'm a frequent customer for genuine Honda and other brand parts... I enjoy several things about motorcycle work. Since I like to spin wrenches, and many of us do, motorcycles are a great place to build and retain skills. Motorcycle work is far less cumbersome than automotive and truck work, although I'm well schooled and trained at both. At home, our neighbors are way more comfortable watching me tune a dirt motorcycle than dropping and rebuilding an automatic transmission from a 4x4 truck...So much for suburbia, anyway... The additional benefits of working on your own cycle, especially a dirt bike headed to remote places, are self-sufficiency and acquiring troubleshooting skills. You know your way around the motorcycle and can quickly become oriented for repairs or emergency fixes in the field. My earliest sense of motorized accomplishment was the restoration of a 1955 Cushman/Allstate scooter. The $8 "discovery", with a loudly knocking motor, tossed its connecting rod on my first ride—the loose rod snapped the camshaft in half and destroyed the iron block casting. The incentive for bringing that scooter back was to ride on Nevada's streets and highways, legally, at the age of 14. That Cushman scooter launched my lifelong interest in motorcycle, automotive and truck service work and technology. Fifty years later, I vividly recall passing my written license exam and the satisfaction I had with the engine and other work to get—and keep—that Cushman running. I still enjoy motorcycle work, and to celebrate my 50th year of riding and working on road and dirt motorcycles, I invested in a Harbor Freight 1000# motorcycle lift...Check out the forum post at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/index.php/topic/83-harbor-freight-1000-motorcycle-lift—best-buy-on-the-planet/ Moses

Before I start spewing accolades about the Harbor Freight 1000-pound motorcycle lift that I just bought on sale, let me make some qualifying statements: 1) I'm not a shill for Harbor Freight; 2) while it would be nice to get Harbor Freight advertising at the magazine, they're not on board yet nor have they been solicited, so gaining advertising is not my motive for the following comments; and 3) some of what Harbor Freight sells leaves much to be desired...tactfully put. I have been watching this item on sale at the motorcycle magazines for a couple of years and saw it close up at the Harbor Freight outlet locally. You've figured out by now that I'm a weldor and metal fabricator, and for me, the cost of steel, machining, stamping, hydraulics, forming and painting made this ramp type lift an absolute bargain... Its full retail price around $700 (U.S.), the chronic sale price at the magazines around $300, the lift deserves your attention! When it went on a three-day sale at $319.99 plus local sales tax (without freight charges since I could pick up a fresh, crated unit from the local Reno store), I took the plunge. My birthday and Father's Day this year will be remembered as the "Year of the Harbor Freight Motorcycle Lift!" The package weighs 317 pounds, mostly steel, and the crating is appropriate for getting the lift from China to the U.S.—and your shop. Harbor Freight loaded the package from a forklift into the Dodge Ram truck bed. I used an engine hoist to unload safely at my end. Note the stand/chock I added after reading the lift reviews at the Harbor Freight website. I also purchased the recommended bottle of jack oil and used 1/3 of it to top off the lift's jack before using the lift. A very small funnel is helpful for filling the bottle jack. Handle the barrel-shaped rubber fill plug with care. The plug is necessary, so resist the impulse to cut the plug into small pieces and toss it out...Harbor Freight could improve on the bottle jack's fill plug design. A threaded plug with copper or O-ring gasket would be one approach. For the most part, this is a pre-assembled, easier package, yet it still took me over an hour from opening the crate to the lift fully assembled (properly) and ready for use—plus another half hour to drill holes and mount the heavier stand/chock and add-on, heavy duty eye bolts at the rear of the ramp deck. Some say the lift can be set up in half an hour—really? I'm detail oriented, so maybe it took me 15 minutes longer than others. Incidentally, the stand/chock paid off big for tying down the motorcycle on the lift by myself. Note: The removable ramp end is hefty and diamond plate like the lift ramp...I found all of the steel and engineering suitable for my kind of motorcycle service work. Some reviewers boast about Harley-Davidson full-dressers being well within the lift's ability. Maybe so and great—I'm glad my cycles never weigh over 550 pounds these days, one GL1500 Goldwing was enough from both a riding and serviceability standpoint. Here are the features of my new lift, you can judge for yourself. If you do motorcycle or ATV work and are tired of bending down and struggling with minor or major repairs and powertrain work, take the pro shop level, ramp lift approach—at your garage, motorcycle shop or home shop! (Click on photos to enlarge. If you're visiting as a guest and find this kind of forum helpful, consider joining so you can enjoy photos and other member features—all for free!) All said, the 1000# Harbor Freight motorcycle lift is the best buy in the World at the sale price...I have other Harbor Freight heavy steel products and do use Pittsburgh heavy duty impact grade sockets and ball-joint tools—alongside my professional OTC, Miller, Snap-On, Craftsman, Mac and Proto tools! Moses

We bought the magazine's 2005 Ram 3500 4WD Quad Cab new in the fall of 2004. The Cummins 5.9L diesel, SRW, short box, 140.5" wheelbase truck has been a joy, maybe even our favorite vehicle ever! At 121K miles, it's just now broken-in, a "keeper" truck that will be in our stable for a long time to come! These models are not without issues, however, among them shorter steering gear life. The change to oversized 35" tires, the weight of the Cummins inline six engine over the front axle, the wider 18" aftermarket wheel rims and a four-inch Mopar suspension lift have helped coax the steering gear to the end of its duty cycle. Actually, considering the history of these power steering gears, I'm feeling good about the mileage we did get from the OEM gear, especially a gear that wrestles with a weighty diesel engine and, from 90K miles onward, the addition of oversized tires! At left is our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4WD truck in stock form at 90K miles. The pickup underwent a metamorphosis to its new "look", functionality and show appearance in time for 2011 Off-Road Expo display at the BFG Tires booth. (Click to enlarge photos. Cannot see the photos? Viewing is for members, please join us!) Prior to this year's Moab Jeep Safari, I did a minor adjustment of the steering gear sector to correct for the first signs of wander. You should know that any adjustment other than very slight is always a sign of a fatigued steering gear. I followed the factory adjusting procedure to a good end: safe, controlled steering. A temporary remedy, I'm now getting serious about a long term solution for the steering gear issue... There are a variety of approaches. Mopar has an upgrade steering gear for these models: Mopar Steering Box Upgrade Kit '03-'08 Ram HD, part number 68170214AA. This beefier, direct replacement steering gear box comes with a pitman arm, as the OEM arm will not fit the new, larger sector splines. In my case, this creates a dilemma: The 4" Mopar lift kit on the truck requires a dropped pitman arm. There is no dropped arm available for the upgrade steering gear and this '03-'08 Dodge Ram application. In researching, I discovered that a steering linkage upgrade from Pure Performance works with the stock pitman arm on lifts in the 4"-6" realm. If I use the new Mopar upgrade steering gear, with the replacement (OEM fit) pitman arm, the Pure Performance heavy duty steering linkage will not only fit with the furnished pitman arm, it would also eliminate a second pre-2009 Ram truck issue: the "Y" steering linkage that can contribute to wander and bump steer. I never experienced bump steer with the stock 2005 "Y" steering linkage; even after the 4" lift, which I carefully installed using front end gauges, I've never experienced bump steer. The more recent and slight "wander" has been related to sector play in the original steering gear. There's a "plan" forming, and I want Dodge-Ram forum members to be aware of the inherent steering gear and linkage concerns on 2003-2008 HD 2500 and 3500 trucks...I'm starting this topic while still researching the right solution...I'll keep you posted! Moses

Ironically, in searching for a Wheeler Manufacturing small chain wrench (none available today like my 'sixties version), I recalled a tool that might be useful: the exhaust tubing cutting tool used at muffler shops. I have an inexpensive exhaust tubing chain cutter from Harbor Freight that is not in its inventory any longer...It has a longer chain, which many do not have, you can actually wrap it around a filter canister—most chain cutters are designed for only 3" to 3-1/2" diameter maximum. The chain has cutting wheels at the links...It works, although the sharpness of cutting wheels is marginal, a metallurgical issue. There may be a better quality tool available in this design. It's considered a muffler shop tool. A tool like this should cut through a filter canister without trouble, leaving minimal debris, kind of like an electric can opener cut. Here's another tool from Harbor Freight that, unfortunately, will only open to 3-1/2" diameter. (Lisle makes a similar tool.) Maybe you could modify it, possibly worth a try if the cutting wheels are decent. In principle, this could do the job you want for minimal cost: http://www.harborfreight.com/exhaust-pipe-cut-off-tool-69327.html If you want to step up to aircraft filter tools, they can be bought without spending a lot. Here are two examples that are actually affordable if you take filter inspection seriously and plan to use the tool regularly: http://www.skygeek.com/airwolf-afc-370-rotax-oil-filter-cutter.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=airwolf-afc-370-rotax-oil-filter-cutter&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=COyG3aGZ77cCFQXZQgodOxsA8Q [This is for Rotax filters, research their diameter!] http://www.skygeek.com/tempest-aa471-filter-oil-media-cutter.html The Tempest tool at $41.19 plus S&H would be a good investment...Investigate the filter diameters this will work with... Moses

When I asked Mark the questions in the last reply, he went directly to FST and got these answers: "We are currently on five "Best in the Desert" vehicles (trucks & buggies) for that very reason, here are a couple of quotes: • Kent Kroeker, owner/President of KORE Off-Road & winner of the Baja 1000: "We've tried every high-performance fuel filtration system on the market and all have fallen short of our expectations. The only system that works in all conditions is the FST - for three simple reasons: flow, surface area, and efficiency. That's why we trust FST when we subject a $100,000 V-10 Viper motor to the rigors of the Baja 1000. FST is no-compromise performance. Period." • Gary Mills, Owner of Mills Motorsports; 2nd in class / Baja 500 this year: "FST filters provided us clean fuel for 500 of the hardest miles on planet earth." Both of the above "were" having trouble with clogged fuel injectors until they switched to FST. Mark - it strictly depends on the fuel, or contaminates and water in the fuel, I should say. We have some (racers) that change them weekly, others once a year (if they don't get a bad batch of fuel at a track)....some quarterly. We've had people run 6 months, then after changing (the filter), get a bad load of fuel and plug-up in a week. I like to recommend (if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge) at every oil change, remove the (fuel) filter, drain in a clear jar...if the fuel looks clean, oil the seal and put it back on. Do this until the fuel starts to look ruddy, dirty, then change it. If you run a fuel pressure gauge on the "Out" side of the filter, you will notice a drop in the pressure as it gets dirty. I trust this helps...Rick" You can see FST Performance products at the website: http://www.fstperformance.com/. FST RPM 350 Filter and mounting stand...Photo courtesy of FST. Rick should know, and I agree completely...I had shared with Mark that pressure drop at his gauge would be a signal for a clogging filter, since Mark plans to mount the pressure gauge sender at the fuel rail—post pump and FST filter. Good to get Rick's additional impressions. As a footnote, I worked with BMW (cars) at the dealership level in the early ‘80s. The OEM paper fuel filters would plug with one water-contaminated fuel fill, and the cars would come into the service department by tow truck! I know very few who can afford a tow from the Rubicon Trail or Fordyce...and it's very dispiriting to turn a "fun vacation" into a trailside fix that goes on for days. Being "the broken 4x4 story" won't elevate your stature among fellow four-wheelers, either! Paper matrix fuel filters are designed to swell and stop fuel flow to prevent damage to sensitive components in the FI system. On BMW/Bosch systems, the weak link of that era was the expensive fuel distributor, which had zero tolerance for water exposure. The fuel filter was an inexpensive service replacement item. Pleased that we made the FST connection. This is a high grade filtration solution for any off-road vehicle subjected to extreme driving, dust and remote driving conditions. Mark has been helpful in illuminating his CJ8's fuel supply system needs, discoveries over many years of hardcore four-wheeling...Glad we opened this subject, the end result will be more reliable, safer four-wheeling for those who head out for primitive destinations! Moses